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Author Topic: Graflex Clamp Switch, but with removable pogopins  (Read 204 times)

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Offline Shinkaze

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------UPDATED-----------

After investigating this idea I found a superior solution using a power cell in the clamp and conducting a small charge through the chassis to the silicon. This way you do not have to drill the graflex to make a window for pogopins.  Additionally I did not find a suitable pogopin for clearing a 1.5mm wall thickness.



------Original Idea------

First Post, apologies if this has been vetted before.

I am building a Graflex with a removable chassis around the Saber Armory 1" removable blade holder.

Therefore if I implement clamp buttons they must be able to engage/disengage with the internal chassis when removed.

My Idea is to drill an access hole into the top half under the clamp, and add a pogo pin connector to a Shtok Clamp switch.



Obviously the chassis would have to be modified to add pick up points....


My Concerns are
 - Can the pogopin handle for shearing forces as the upper inserts and rotates to reveal the pogopin window
 - Adding a slotted hole to the Graflex Upper might weaken the hilt, (maybe make holes round instead of a slot for strength?)
 - Creates possibility of grounding to hilt

Input appreciated

----------------EDIT--------------



I have found from some research that "Ballhead" Pogopins are designed for this, however it's a matter of finding one that can depress the same wall thickness as the Graflex shell.




-----------------EDIT #2-----------

Looks like I've found a possible candidate for a ballhead pogopin designed for lateral movement with 1.4mm of travel....



« Last Edit: 2 weeks ago by Shinkaze »

Offline scott

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Definitely want to see the results of you can make this work!  Most removable graflex builds that I have seen use the red button and/or the slide switch.

Offline Nemezis

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Hello Shinkaze,

Seems an interesting project technically speaking.
However, if you're working on MBSabers internals as shown on your pics, there are activation/Aux buttons build in already. Any reason to add extra buttons?
Moreover, you will have to deeply modify the internal chassis while ending up drilling in 2 of the main support which might endanger the rigidity of it.
Anyway, would be happy to see the result and your returns about mod.


Offline Shinkaze

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Hello Shinkaze,

Seems an interesting project technically speaking.
However, if you're working on MBSabers internals as shown on your pics, there are activation/Aux buttons build in already. Any reason to add extra buttons?
'Screen Accuracy' the first time this saber was ever ignited on screen, was by pressing a redundant activation control on the lower control box.

Quote
Moreover, you will have to deeply modify the internal chassis while ending up drilling in 2 of the main support which might endanger the rigidity of it.
Anyway, would be happy to see the result and your returns about mod.
I can't speak to the integrity of the plastic Plasma Gate, but the Steel version is probably stronger than my blade holder, even if I trench out a switch.  It's pretty much just a lug of metal...


Now in saying that, I have theorized a potentially superior implementation that is non-invasive.  I will need to run some tests to see if it's possible, but I believe using a small power cell in the clamp one might be able to send a tiny current through the chassis that the silicon can read 'wireless' via conduction. 

Offline Nemezis

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'Screen Accuracy' the first time this saber was ever ignited on screen, was by pressing a redundant activation control on the lower control box.
Makes sense.

Well in  that optic, I would only wire 1 button there for activation. That would simplify the project: You'd only need 2 pogo pins.
You could even use only 1 pogo if you ground the chassis as you said but I find it dangerous. In metal swords, risks of shortcuts are pretty high.
For the Aux button:  having it set on top part of the hilt is much more handy in my opinion.

Really want to see the result of your work.



Offline Nemezis

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Just crossed my mind:
if you use a small button battery and a solenoid, you could generate a contactless circuitry and use the "magic" feature of the CFX to light the saber up without any chassis mod..  :lamp:

Offline scott

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  • Oh, I don’t think so.
Great idea...or use a buttonless setup with twist to activate.