Build this saber for cosplay use and because I got fascinated with what you are doing here in saberspace. Goal is to make it quite screen accurate but making most things myself and not buying expensive replica parts.
The saber will have a LED string blade and a board with Lighsaber OS for light and sound effects.
Started with the tube that came from an old wacum cleaner with 36mm OD. A bit narrow but close enough.
Made a Graflex
clamp in 1mm anodized aluminium with two aluminium profiles and a screw holding them together. The PCB
control panel is etched and slided into a separate alu plate with bent edges holding the PCB in place. This is then glued on top of the clamp. Much easier to make it look nice making it in two pieces like this than making the top part of the clamp, and you can't tell the difference without looking close. The clamp handle is 3D printed, spray painted and glued on the underside of the clamp. Front "bunny" clamp is made from sheet metal and mounted with 2.5mm screws. Will make a separate metal ring around the blade, not possible to assemble the clamp with a ring in one peace.
Handle grips was 3D printed in stead of using rubber profiles. Easier to do when you have a 3D printer and still looks nice. The grips are glued to the tube. All screws except one is cut and also glued in place, not going through the metal tube. The last screw goes though a hole and keeps the internal mounting chassis in place.
The internal chassis is holding a replaceable 26650 battery, 28mm speaker, rear end toggle switch, USB charging connector and room for a sound board. It is 3D printed in two parts and the speaker element is held in place between them. This way the saber will act as a nice loudspeaker:) Battery connections is made with copper tape and a peace of brass sheet.
Made a clip for the D-ring that is inserted in the rear end:
Assembled it looks like this, with a grill for the speaker around the switch:
Next is the LED string blade. I used about 145 flat top high intensity blue LED's soldered together in a jig I made like this, 30 at the time:
The LED's are wrapped in thin foam and inserted in the blade tube made from a 1" plastic LED light tube, standard 1200mm lenght cut down to about 900mm. When the control board is installed it will be divided in 6 segments with separate wiring.
The blade end was 3D printed in transparent PLA:
Made an adapter ring to connect the blade with the saber tube. This will also have the connectors on the sides, made by some crimp connector pins that is cut and inserted from the inside:
The ring is held in place with the primary and secondary switch:
Now the internal chassis can be connected and inserted. This is just for testing the LED's:
Assembled it look like this:
I still have not made the ring for the front clamp and the beer tab for the switch. Will also try to flatten the tube around the switches like Jeremy described in his build post. I don't think adding more details like the small cut-outs will make it look nicer.
LED's illuminated looks like this. It is quite bright even with 0.5A current. No problem running 1-2A maximum.
On the wall togeather with my 3D printed Old Ben saber:
3D models:http://www.tinkercad.com/things/jQa25vQVBWJ-new-hope-graflex-saber-3d-parts/editv2Lightsaber wall mount by HansVaa - Thingiverse
D-Ring: 10pcs/pack 3/4"(20mm) Nickel Plated D Ring Semi Ring Ribbon Clasp Knapsack Belt
LED's: 100pcs 5mm Blue 2Pins Flat top DIP LED Diodes Clear Super Bright Wide Angle LED
USB connector: 10pcs/lot Micro USB 5pin Female Socket Connector Welding Type for Tail Charging
Toggle switch: 1PC 12MM Glowing Metal Button Switch With LED 6V/12V/24V/220V Latching Self
Red push switch: 5pcs/LOT Red 10mm Thread Multicolor 2 Pins Momentary Push Button Switch 3A/125V
Black push switch: 5pcs/LOT black 10mm Thread Multicolor 2 Pins Momentary Push Button Switch
LED light tube: LysrÝr LED | ANSLUT | Jula
Speaker: 2pcs New 28mm 8ohm 8? 2W Audio Speaker Stereo Woofer Loudspeaker Trumpet Horn |