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Author Topic: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes  (Read 4561 times)

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Offline Acerocket

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Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« on: May 05, 2017, 10:07:38 AM »

Here are some notes to help you disassemble and reassemble the Obi saber.  When you receive the saber, there the saber will be mostly assembled minus the internal switches and small parts.  You will also find a length of plastic tubing to use as an electronics shield in the pommel (you will need to cut this yourself), and you will find a bag containing the blade tip, blade metal slug, blade washer, 2X recharge port plug, sound vented pommel cap and a bag containing 2 switches a purple hemi and two rubber o-rings.  If you opted for the AOTC purple hemi, you will only have 8 pieces in the bag and will not receive the purple hemi or 2X rubber o-ring.

I do not have new pictures, but will use some from the original run, they are nearly identical.

You will need to purchase the LED and optic unit you will be using, as well as sound card, batteries, speaker, blade tube and any other items needed for the install (wires, solder, shrink wrap, etc).  The speakers are this one AS04008CO-R PUI Audio, Inc. | Audio Products | DigiKey  You are free to try a different speaker, but the saber was designed to hold that particular speaker and I make no promises anything else will fit.

I will post the assembly instructions, disassembly is the reverse.

1: 

You will need a .05" hex wrench, phillips (cross) screwdriver and a flat screwdriver (I don't remember why a flat screwdriver, but it was in the old pictures so there).

2.

You shad a pile of parts that looks like this.

3. 

We will start with the emitter head.  Gather the parts shown in the picture into your work area.

4. 

Take the shroud and 2X 4-40x.125" set screw and 1X 4-40x.25 set screw (the picture shows 3x 4-40x.125, but with the 'red button fix', one of the 4-40x.125 is replaced with a 4-40x.25 screw).

5. 

The process for installing the screws is to pass the .05" hex wrench through the threaded hole from the inside of the shroud, put the screw on the wrench, and then screw backwards into the shroud.  The reason for this is so the screws can later be screwed out to hold the crown bezel in place and you use the wrench through the blade hole.  Make sure you screw the screws in far enough that they do not protrude past the shroud. 

6.

Because of the 'red button fix', there will be some departures in the pictures.  You do not install the crown bezel over the shroud alone.  The longer 4-40x.25" screw makes this impossible until the black grooved section is in place.  The 4-40x.25" screw should go in the shroud above the single LED bezel hole (as opposed to the LED holes above the red button and brass valve holes).  The black grooved section has a match threaded hole for the 4-40x.25 screw to screw into so you can lock the shroud in place.  You can verify which hole this is in the black grooved section as it is the only threaded hole of the three (and it should be bare aluminum as it was threaded after anodizing).

7. 

this step is up to you.  Depending on your optic module and LED choice, you may or may not want to add this rubber o-ring.  It's primary purpose is to add some sandwich room and shock protection for the optic lense.  If you have a taller LED and optic, you may want to pass on the o-ring - it won't hurt anything if you do not use it.  This is a hangover from the original design that used the LEDengin 10 Watt BBBB LED.

8.

there is a single 4-40 tapped hole on the side of this section, you will be screwing in a 4-40x.125" set screw.

9.

Make sure the screw does not protrude into the bore of the emitter head.

10.




Take your LED, optic and heatsink and assemble into the emitter.

11.

Gather up the two switches and the white delrin switch spacer.

12.

Take the larger black LED switch and glue this onto the delrin spacer. There are alignment holes milled in the channel of the slot for this switch, so make sure you have them in the correct slot (this slot is also wider than the other two slots)
This switch is a K5ATWH43GP http://www.ckswitches.com/media/1484/k5at.pdf

13.


Glue the tact switch (MJTP1138A http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/26/MJTP_6MM_4MM_SMD-221741.pdf )in it's pocket.  You may need to test fit the delrin spacer to figure out the correct pocket (or mark it before you remove it the first time).  The third channel is for the LED wires to pass through to the rear of the saber.

14.


Take the switch space and install it into the emitter grooved section.  Make sure it seats all the way down, it is a tight fit.  You can look through the red button and brass valve holes to make sure the switches are centered.  Once it is lined up properly, tighten the 4-40x.125" set screw to lock the switch spacer in place. 

15.


Glue the purple hemi on the polycarbonate extension.  You may want to test fit this to see if you want to shorten the polycarbonate at all to suit your liking on purple hemi placement.

16.


Verify that the LED switch is pretty much centered in the red button hole (the one with the square pocket).  Also verify the brass valve tact switch is likewise centered.

17.


Take the small black anodized square switch plate and set it in the pocket on the emitter.  This plate has a flat bottom and a radiused top.  The flat bottom goes down into the pocket.  Don't worry that it looks too short, it is supposed to to allow move the red botton to move up and down when pressed.

18.

It is not time to assemble the rest of the emitter head parts. (remember, the crown bezel should not be installed on the shroud yet - even though it shows like this in the pictures).

19.

You will need to screw the 4-40x.25" (long) screw out of the shroud so you can slip it over the emitter grooved section.  If you installed the screws correctly, this long screw should line up with the threaded hole in the black grooved section.  Now back the screw back into the emitter grooved section to lock the shroud on.

20.

Screw the red button into the switch plate.  Take care you do not screw it in to far, and check for the 'clicky' feeling so you know it is depressing the switch when you press the red button.

21.

Screw in the brass valve.  Remember to install the purple hemi/polycarbonate stem before you add the brass valve.

A not about the brass valve.  In order to use the 5mm amethyst cabochon, the original o-ring is removed from the brass valve.  You can replace it with the 2x o-ring include or leave them off, your call.  But the small o-rings can easily fall out of the brass valve if the purple hemi is a little low.  If you use the o-rings, I suggest a little adhesive to hold them in.

22.

Again, despite it showing in the previous pictures, the crown bezel should not be installed yet.  Now you will add it to the shroud and using the .05" hex wrench, insert the wrench from inside the blade bore, through the emitter, and tighten the screws to lock it in place.
You can then screw in the blade plug.  Note here, if the blade plug does not screw in easily, you may need to loosen a set screw of the crown bezel and tighten the other two to re-center the crown bezel.  It can take a few tries to do this so the blade plug screws in easily.

The emitter head is now assembled.

Offline Acerocket

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2017, 10:09:19 AM »
23.


Now we turn our attention to the pommel.. Gather up the 6 cubes, 6X 2-56 screw, pommel neck and plastic electronic shield (if you want to use one).

24.


Using the .05 hex wrench, attach the 6 cubes to the pommel neck.

25.


Cut the plastic shield (if you want to use it) to length and slip it in the pommel neck.

26.


Screw on the pommel cap and your pommel is complete.  (Yes, there is the recharge port block, this will be covered a little later as it was another fix applied and I want to try and keep the instructions close to the pictures)


27.

Core assembly, gather up the grip section and inner core as well as 2x 4-40x.125 set screw (speaker is optional depending on what you go with).

28.

partially screw in the 2x 4-40x.125 set screw.

29.

If you are using the PUI Audio speaker, you will want to glue it onto the inner core on the end with the sound vents.  Might want to make sure it fits properly before gluing.

30.


The original design was for 2x 14500 cells, but you can decide what suits your needs.  I would suggest the thinnest heatshrink you can find.

31.



Insert the inner core into the grip section and screw the 4-40x.125 screws through the grip and into the inner core so they barely pass through the inner core.  This will lock it in place.  There are math threaded holes, so make sure you have it in the correct direction.
You can then install the battery pack into the grip.
33.

Gather up the grip shroud, grip section, inner core, neck, covertech, 6-32 phillips head screw, 2X 4-40x.125 set screw, neck section, and anything you will need electronic install wise.
34.


Grab the emitter section and screw the neck section to it.
35.


Screw the emitter/neck onto the grip shroud, and check your alignment.
36.

Now take the grip shroud, grip section, covertech and 6-32 phillips head screw and gather them up.

37.


Insert the grip section into the grip shroud and secure with the 6-32 phillips head screw.  These are also match threaded so be careful to align properly.
37.




You will want to remove the pommel cap from the pommel section so you can install the sound board and battery charge circuit (if you use unprotected cells).  Screw on the pommel neck and install your electronics.  The picture shows the cards near the rear, you may need to ‘adjust’ this a bit depending on the card you use.  The recharge block sits on top of the pommel neck, but the port and block, extend back into the pommel neck, but should fit under the board.
37.

The recharge block, as mentioned, sits on top of the pommel neck and inside the pommel cap.  The recharge port extends into the pommel neck.  You can remove the two 2-56 screws to access the recharge port if needed.  You will want to shorten the pins and maybe add some type of glue or epoxy over the solder joint to prevent shorting.  There are two recharge port plugs included in the box, one is so you can make a charge cable adapter,  the other is you can make a kill key if you wish.  For a kill key, remove the black boot, cut off the solder points, and cover in heatshrink.  Or you can make yourself one or get one 3D printed.
40.

Set the recharge port block in place and re-attach the pommel endcap.  Your saber is now assembled.


Offline Foe Hammer

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2017, 10:49:34 AM »
Thanks for doing this Ace!

Offline Acerocket

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2017, 11:46:49 AM »
With trying to keep all the fasteners hidden and not mess up the 'hero' looks of the saber, a lot of the assembly is hidden.  To hopefully avoid headaches and people calling me all sorts of sorted names, I posted this tutorial for people to have an idea what to expect.  Least I could do to help you all out.

Offline Wildcard

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2017, 12:22:38 PM »
Thank you very much for posting all of this additional information!

Offline Mandalorian

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2017, 12:36:15 PM »
Very cool how intricate this assembly is, and how awesome the final piece looks.  Thanks for breaking it all down for us.  :D

Offline El toro

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2017, 12:39:30 PM »
Thank you for providing the instructions!

Offline Gullwing

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2017, 05:10:18 PM »
Just by looking at this explanation, I'm really excited even though the hilt has not arrived yet.
What a high level of assembly.
Thanks for this instruction.

Offline Acerocket

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2017, 07:27:06 PM »
I remember why the flat screwdriver is needed...  It is to screw in the heatsink/ optic package.

Offline erv

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2017, 12:07:12 AM »
awesomeness saved and printed to PDF. Thank you Erik for this detailed guide !  :cool:

Offline Acerocket

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2017, 01:30:50 PM »
A few more notes.  The sabers were numbered and aligned for machining.  Then broken down to wash and send certain parts to the anodizer.  Anodizing adds thickness, not a lot, but enough to cause alignment issues when they are reassembled.  I tried to sand the grip sections to make sure the pommels aligned, but some needed more and some needed no sanding.  There really isn't anything to sand at the emitter section end but I tried to align them the best I could - again, sometimes that means they are barely tightened together.  If you disassemble and reassemble your saber, you may end up with alignment issues too as threads fill with dirt, or any number of reasons.  You can align the pommel tho the grip by laying a sheet of 600 grit (or finer if you choose) and working a little at a time and rechecking often (if you go too far, then you have to sand until you can line up the next cube - or find another way).  Not much you can do with the emitter/neck section.  But I didn't really notice any that did not align - just some were tight and others were barely tightened.  It was mentioned on the original run to the installer to use BLUE Loctie (not RED unless you never, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever want to take it apart again).  A little drop of Blue will hold things in place unless you try chopping down trees.  I did not Loctite any threaded connections so you can take the saber apart easily, but you may to hit most of them when you final assemble your saber.

Another thing...  The sabers are machine finished aluminum - not polished or otherwise finished.  Small surface scratches and such can crop up in the storing, racking, washing, assembling, packing of the saber.  I try to look them all over and hit any scratches I find, but after a while, all I see is silver.  To remove small scuffs and scratches, use some 600-1000 grip sandpaper (if you have a stubborn scratch) follwed by some #0000 steel wool.  That is what I use to clean parts up all the time.

Offline Mysterious Stranger

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #11 on: July 23, 2017, 10:37:50 PM »
Wow!! Some incredible engineering, and I am a huge fan of Obi-Wan hilts. Hate that I missed this run.

Offline NickCline

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Re: Obi disassmebly/reassembly notes
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2017, 05:27:12 PM »
One of my all-time favorite character hilts. Thank you again for allowing me to join this run so late in the game. It's everything I hoped it would be, and will be proudly displayed in my collection for many years to come.