fiduciary

Author Topic: Building an empty OWK from your website.  (Read 3145 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline SSJDusten

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Um...Hello?
Building an empty OWK from your website.
« on: January 19, 2017, 11:43:33 AM »
I noticed you have the complete hilt kit in stock for the OWK.

My friend and I are ready to tackle our first install, but we are total noobs and could use some advice.

We watched some videos, and were looking to most likely install a PRIZM board.

Can anyone let us know what we may need for this install.

Does the hilt come drilled for a switch, momentary or guarded?

Do the holes for the belt clip need to be drilled too?

Also do you happen to know if the red button can be used as the activation button?

Any information is greatly appreciated, and I am happy to watch a video on it if anyone has any.

Thank you so much.

Hoping for a blue blade, red flash on clash, lock up and blaster block. Again total noob, so any advice I will gladly listen to.

Thank you.

Battery,

LED MODULE

heat sink,

heat shrink,

28 gauge wire,


Offline Jyn-Toar

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 46
  • I can fly anything...
Re: Building an empty OWK from your website.
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2017, 09:26:50 PM »
The red button on the OWK can and often is used as the activation button on those hilts.  you will also want a tactile switch in order to access the full capabilities of the PRIZM, so you will need to either bore another hole in the hilt or find a way to wire it under the brass thumbscrew that comes with the hilt.  The hilt doesn't come drilled for a momentary or guarded switch at all; it comes set up for the red button to be used with a tactile switch for activation.  For wiring help with the PRIZM, I will point you to this thread, where virtually everything has been covered.  I would also suggest having a good, thorough look at the PRIZM manual before you attempt to wire it.

I cannot speak to whether or not the saber has a hole drilled and tapped for a belt system, but if not you could certainly drill and tap it yourself or have it sent somewhere for that.

MTFBWY!
« Last Edit: January 19, 2017, 09:28:57 PM by Jyn-Toar »
Run with perseverance the race marked out...

Offline Kappy79

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 111
  • "...." - Luke Skywalker ,TFA
Re: Building an empty OWK from your website.
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2017, 04:59:32 AM »
I'm curious if a prizm will fit in the owk. From what I understand, the inner diameter of the Saber is very thin and a prizm may not fit. I have not received mine yet since I am waiting for the mpp as well. I would love to know so I can have parts waiting when it gets here  :huh:

Offline Jyn-Toar

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 46
  • I can fly anything...
Re: Building an empty OWK from your website.
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2017, 07:17:52 PM »
Prizm will not fit.
Run with perseverance the race marked out...

Offline Rhool13

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 38
  • Um...Hello?
Re: Building an empty OWK from your website.
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2017, 07:36:43 AM »
I would look at using a nb and yes it has the hole for the covertec already drilled

Offline IceSaber

  • Experienced Force User
  • ****
  • Posts: 419
  • Midi-chlorians..
Re: Building an empty OWK from your website.
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2017, 11:07:12 AM »
I've had an empty for months. The covertec wheel is installed with a screw but I forget which type. The activation switch is as described above but one of the challenges with this hilt is installing the wiring for the emitter very early on because once you've screwed the top bit on, any subsequent removal of it will twist installed wires. The inner core needs to be cut to fit most boards but I believe a nano biscotte will fit. Goth3d are releasing some chassis versions for it very soon so I'd strongly recommend waiting for those.

This hilt definitely isn't the easiest to begin with but it's my favourite. I've done a few graftex 2.0 and it's a lot more straight forward.

The owk by default uses the brass screw for blade retention and one activation switch. Any other configurations require some modification. Some I've seen are having activation retention screw in the black area in the top. Another area for the retention screw is on the removable top most cylinder like part so it can be removed separately to the saver by unscrewing and the screw will remain hidden otherwise. I've also seen some use the brass screw as a aux switch but that means you can't easily light it up you wanted to and it won't work for retention. I'd love to see a proper installation video on YouTube but as it stands I'm holding off worming on this until after my mpp for the complexity of it.