When you get your saber, it will be in an 'assembled' condition with a small parts bag in the box. I did not fully assemble the sabers in case people want to polish before hand.
An overview of the saber.
To install the pommel insert, you use the large rubber o-ring included in the small parts bag to secure it. You need a long pick or flat screwdriver or some similar tool to get the o-ring secured in the groove in the bottom of the grip. If you are using the hero insert, you need to add the small 0-80 screw and nut (included in the small parts bag) the the small center hole in the hero insert.
Care must be taken with the band on the front of the grip section. It is loose because of the design requirement for accurate grip knurl and being able to open for a reveal (not my first choice, but it is what people wanted). There is a small set screw opposite the box and a screw through the box that secures it. Do not overtighten the small set screw or it can 'oval' the ring. The set screw is to lock the front half in when closed and to a lesser extent to hold the band in place. I would highly suggest some kind of glue, epoxy, etc be used once you are ready to install the band for the final time (glue the band to the knurl section). It was left loose on purpose as mentioned before in case people want to polish their sabers before assembly.
In the spare parts bag, you will find the hero and blade necks. The hero neck should be self-explanatory. The blade neck requires assembly with your blade stock. You must use a 7/8" thin wall blade material. The silver collar goes over the end of the blade, and the black neck goes inside the blade tube. There is a 6-32 set screw that goes through all three parts (threading is in the silver collar only). You will need to mark and drill the hole in your blade stock. Again, some glue or something might be helpful for a better fit. Yes, I realize that is not much blade depth and you most likely won't be able to duel with your saber, but it was made abundantly clear to me that people wanted accuracy first, not functionality.
When you are working with the buttons, please be very careful not to lose or mix up the short screws that hold on the switch bezel bases. I do not have extra screws, I will not offer extra screws (they were an utter nightmare to cut down). If you lose them, I can give you the closest size and you will need to modify them yourself.
The blade retaining screw (also holds the shroud to the blade holder section) is a little long. You will need to decide if you want to shorten it to your liking or leave it alone.
Brass pins - my suggestion - use tweezers and be careful.
Chassis - no, I did not design a chassis, no I will not design or make chassis parts. The internal setup is entirely up to you. If you want to make a 3D printed chassis and don't want the threaded rods, then you can remove them from the spring plate setup. You do not want the chassis rods, you don't need to use them. If you want to use them, the rods are evenly spaced 120 apart on a .9274" circle. ID in the front section is about 1.28", ID in the knurl section is about 1.14 and ID in the rear grip section is about 1.125".
I will try and check into this thread periodically to answer some questions, but I won't be able to answer everything on a moment's notice. Please have patience. If you find a trick or way to do something that works for you, feel free to post it for other members to follow too.