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Author Topic: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build  (Read 2539 times)

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Offline Solan Starr

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2011, 04:51:30 PM »
Dude! that looks awesome, Great job.  I love the way that board sounds in your saber.  I have a Maul board that I'm going to put in my first MHS build.  I'm really looking forward to finishing that, & after hearing how awesome yours sounds I really can't wait. 

Yeah, IRL the board sounds very deep and ominous.  I have no regrets about buying 2 more.....Well, other than I bought those 2 the day before I found out about PC-L.  But I still got a Darkmeat, so no biggie.  Just different boards for different projects.  And the Darkmeat will work better with my plans anyway.

Next time instead of an accent tied to the blade, I'm using a vibrating motor.  I bought a couple of these pager motors that it seems like most people use, but when I went looking for pololu boards, I found these shaftless vibration motors and picked a couple up in various sizes.

Arkhan:  After looking at your sig, you and I share more hobbies than just this one.  While never taking on an AK personally, I've got a fair share of AR's, a bolt gun, and a couple 1911's under my belt.  I really like how the tools and skills used in one hobby can carry over to another.

Offline bluerolla

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #16 on: March 03, 2011, 11:26:25 PM »
nice saber ;D how did you wire up your av switch led to come on when you pull the kill key? thanks for your help. i got a mr board that i wanna wire up.





Offline Rafalema

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #17 on: March 03, 2011, 11:33:35 PM »
Splice the wires going from the recharge port to the soundboard and wire the LED on those wires. And don't forget the resistor or you will see your LED fried.

Good luck!  ;)
Through Passion, I gain Strength
The Assassin - MHS Custom, CFv5.6

Offline Solan Starr

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2011, 09:30:53 AM »
nice saber ;D how did you wire up your av switch led to come on when you pull the kill key? thanks for your help. i got a mr board that i wanna wire up.

Well, because of the activation box I used, the recharge port was sitting about an inch from the AV switch, but the poles were not on the same side so my wires look like an "S.". 

I used two pieces of wire about 2 inches long and connected the LED+ to the +leg of the recharge port, then the LED- to the Board- of the recharge port.  I actually didn't use a resistor as I am running a single 3.7v 18650 Li-Ion battery and the Vf of the blue AV LED is 3.3v.  I know that, fully charged, the battery is putting out around 4.2v, but figured it could handle a little overdriving.  It's another reason why I went with a single Li-Ion battery solution.

Originally, I was looking into a 4.8v NiMH and a 7.4 Li-Ion setup.  Each of which, I would have to resistor and with the 7.4v, I would have to regulate power to the MR board as they don't like anything above 5v.  No way to get around either option, until in my research, I found that the MR boards worked well with a single Li-Ion 3.7v solution.  Then a single 18650 sounded like a no-brainer for fantastic run time and ease of use.

Except for the whole "let's solder a battery" part.  Man was I nervous about that.  I debated for weeks about buying a battery with tabs pre-soldered on or just using what I already had from TCSS.  I bought a jar of flux, specifically for it, used WAY too much, and then had to make several attempts as I was afraid I was putting too much heat to it.  Realistically, it was never an issue as the battery only got hot enough to melt the solder once and with all my attempts, it took me about 5 minutes to do it.  If I would have just done it right the first time, it would have been done in less than 1 minute.  Learning experience.  Now I know what to realistically expect the next time I solder one (2 actually for a 7.4v PC-L "sweet spot" ;)) but still be able to keep the fear that keeps us honest.  Fear and respect are powerful allies. (Did that sound Darkside?)  About the time you stop respecting or fearing the risks involved with doing something dangerous, is usually about the time it reaches out and shows you why it's dangerous.

Offline bluerolla

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2011, 11:42:07 PM »
Thanks for the help ;D so the accent led is wired to the + and - of the blade? did you use a resistor for that led? i may want to use this accent in my pommel  ;)





Offline Solan Starr

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #20 on: March 05, 2011, 12:07:42 AM »
Thanks for the help ;D so the accent led is wired to the + and - of the blade? did you use a resistor for that led? i may want to use this accent in my pommel  ;)

Good question. Actually, there's 6 negative wires  and 1 positive wire on the board. I spliced a wire in the middle of one of the 6 for the accent negative, then I bundled all 6 wires together and connected it to the main LED. I did not resistor it. (either LED, honestly) The main thing you need to know is to splice into one wire and not the bundle of 6.

Offline bluerolla

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2011, 12:40:04 AM »
what is the specs of your accent led? thats cool not to have to use a resistor ;D





Offline Solan Starr

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #22 on: March 05, 2011, 09:43:07 AM »
what is the specs of your accent led? thats cool not to have to use a resistor ;D

I bought this one from TCSS

2v - 20mA standard 3mm T1 LED

I have other 3mm T1 LEDs (diffused, water clear; solid color, flashing color, 2 color flashing, etc.) and both styles of holder that I could have used, but just went with the one from TCSS.  I was originally going to put a Blue/Green blinkie in it, but I don't really like that 2 color combo on the other sabers I've built.

Thanks for the help ;D so the accent led is wired to the + and - of the blade? did you use a resistor for that led? i may want to use this accent in my pommel  ;)

Good question. Actually, there's 6 negative wires  and 1 positive wire on the board. I spliced a wire in the middle of one of the 6 for the accent negative, then I bundled all 6 wires together and connected it to the main LED. I did not resistor it. (either LED, honestly) The main thing you need to know is to splice into one wire and not the bundle of 6.

I have a follow up to this. (I was reading in bed and posted the above on my Droid, not the easiest thing to do.)  If you follow that wiring plan, it would be easy to add a crystal pommel with pretty much any 3mm or 5mm LED.  Personally, I would use a diffused 5mm as the diffused has a better viewing angle (thus casting more light around like a candle flame) as opposed to a water clear that typically has a 20 - 40 degree viewing angle (more like a flashlight beam)  Either one would work fantastic and be easy to do.

Don't hesitate to ask any other questions, I'll be glad to help.

Offline bluerolla

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #23 on: March 05, 2011, 12:38:09 PM »
Thanks for your help, your a lifesaver ;D i will try this method of wiring. can't wait to start haha, MTFBWY!!!!!!





Offline DarthCaedus

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Re: StarrFire - My Second MHS Build
« Reply #24 on: March 09, 2011, 07:30:36 PM »
beautiful saber, amazing the things that are possible with MHS isnt it?



Hang on to your hate. It will help you endure. I couldn't hate, and it nearly destroyed me