VV 'Ocassus' inspired MHS Saber Updated: 2013-04-27

[shef]

The plan: 

• Power solution is a custom 2 x 18650 Li-Ion pack & PCB7.4v Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 Battery Pack, recharge port w/ kill key
• MHS based hilt with a custom shroud.  I'm admitting up front... I'm TOTALLY macking on your (VV) Ocassus style Alan.
• Lighted Orange anti-vandal power switch, a few accent LED's,  & a covertec wheel
• TCSS PC-L sound board, CF v5 sound board & power extender, CF v6.1 sound board @ color extender
• 10w LED, wired with 2 x 2 pin connectors Luxeon Tri-Star LED - Red (102 lm) / Green (125 lm) / Royal-Blue (840mW)

 

 Most everything else is already on the way, so it's time to start the build log, so (hopefully) others can learn along with me.  This is my second ever saber build.  Though I may not be breaking new ground for the hobby, it's all new to me, and I am certainly raising the bar and upping my game.  Feedback, critique, and discussion is welcome, and encouraged.


The Reality

2010-09-29:  I've been planning this saber for well over a month now, and the first package of parts arrived today: 

RGBA 10 Watt Full Color RGBA                     PCB for 7.2V Li-ion battery pack



For reference, I indicated where each LED die is positioned on the star.  According to the data sheet, the white dot is mapped to the red die, and the colors (going clockwise) are:  red, green, amber, blue.  For my project, the red & amber are going to be wired in series.  Blue and green are going to be wired in series as well.  I'm not going to start on that project until my potentiometers arrive, and I have an appropriate power supply to test color mixing.

The supplies for my battery pack should be here in the next day or so, so that will be on the bench first.

2010-09-30: The lithium ion cells will be wired to this PCB, which will then regulate the current to and from the cells while in use or charging.  If the cells get too low, this will cut power to the sound board, which will protect it from dangerous low voltage.  It will also protect the cells from over charging.

2011-11-14:  7 months after 'finishing' this saber, I have retrofit it with a Plecter Labs Crystal Focus saber Core, version 5.1, with a power extender for Flash on Clash TM.  The Petit Crouton soundboard has been set aside for another project.  ;)

2013-04-27:  What started as a faulty AV switch replacement turned into a complete overhaul:
Replaced short orange ring illuminated AV switch, with new 20mA DynaOhm variable resistor
Installed a new Switchcraft recharge port
Replaced amber 3mm accent LED's with
-1 Amber
-1 Red
-1 Green
-1 3mm Super Bright Piranha LED - RGB
Replaced the old style blade holder and copper heat sink slug with a updated blade holder with new style optics module and short copper heat sink
Swapped CF 5.1 & PEx for a CF 6.1 & CEx & R.I.C.E. ;D ;D ;D
Swapped the 10 watt LEDEngin for a Luxeon Tri-Star LED - Red (102 lm) / Green (125 lm) / Royal-Blue (840mW)
Swapped my custom 18650 stick battery pack for a prewired 7.4v Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 side by side Battery Pack from TCSS.

New photos & video forthcoming.

[vulcan fox]

build logs are a must follow for me,the more indepth the better, got to say the specs are impressive and i wish you luck with the CF-V5... you might be wise to have a back up sound board to use with your project... planning for month,?! ive been planning for 6 months and im still not at the posting stage,LOL.... seriously, thanks in advance for making the efforts to post this log, it will be much appreciated.

[shef]

build logs are a must follow for me,the more indepth the better, got to say the specs are impressive and i wish you luck with the CF-V5... you might be wise to have a back up sound board to use with your project... planning for month,?! ive been planning for 6 months and im still not at the posting stage,LOL.... seriously, thanks in advance for making the efforts to post this log, it will be much appreciated.

Thanks for the encouragement.  I know I won't be completely satisfied until I'm working on a CF install, but I do have a fall-back plan for a cannibalized board if need be.  The LED will be wired with 2 x 2pin connectors, instead of 1 large 4 pin.  That way, if I don't have a 'clash on flash' option on the board I have, I can choose to run either orange or cyan blade.
Accent LED's, battery, switch & speaker will all be on QC as well, to minimize the work, should I have to 'settle' for a lesser board in the beginning.

This build log will probably be quite long, but that will give me time to document steps, and ask questions.  It's more a courtesy to the build veterans who I have been going to for guidance.  This way they can follow the thread, rather than respond to an inbox full of my PM's.

I spent the evening researching the proper wiring of a 2 cell 18650 lithium ion battery pack to a PCB.  I have the schematic, but now have to find a way to balance the 2 cells before wiring them into a pack.

[vulcan fox]

having a second choice sound board makes good sense considering just how difficult it is to obtain a CF- ive gone to a 2010 hasbro economy board which can now be really good thanks to the research  of people like RYAN SKYTRACKER and MATT THORN you can even wire in a couple of accent LEDS, check out thier wiring schematics,... a lengthy build log then.? so much the better.

[shef]

2010-10-01:  This is the 3rd day in a row where I've come home from work to find new goodies on my doorstep.  ;D



A.  24 ga threaded copper hook-up wire (black, red, white, green, blue, purple, yellow)
B.  PCB for 7.2V Li-ion 18650 Battery Pack 3.5A Working (5A cut-off) - Alternate "8 shaped" PCB, opposed to the 'stick' one I received yesterday.
C.  160 pcs assorted color/size heat shrink tubing
D.  1.06" (27mm) Shrink Wrap Tube (clear), 2" (51mm) Shrink Wrap Tube (green) - For battery pack building
E.  (2x) Tactile pushbutton w/ plunger - for auxiliary switch
F.  Miniature T-1 (3mm) LED, 10ea (green, amber, red) - accents
G.  (2x) Potentiomter 500 ohm 1/2" Round - for color mixing
H.  Connector Headers & Receptors (3 pin & 4 pin) - for the illuminated power switch, recharge port, and accent LEDs.

having a second choice sound board makes good sense considering just how difficult it is to obtain a CF- ive gone to a 2010 hasbro economy board which can now be really good thanks to the research  of people like RYAN SKYTRACKER and MATT THORN you can even wire in a couple of accent LEDS, check out thier wiring schematics,... a lengthy build log then.? so much the better.

Yes, the new economy boards are getting very good reviews, and they would fill a need in a pinch.  But doing that would be like...

(WARNING: Long, drawn-out analogy/rationalization of holding out for a CFV)

...making a reservation at a fine restaurant, months in advance, with the intention of indulging on their unique specialty entree, that requires special notice to prepare.  When the day arrives, instead of waiting for the original entree, you hear about a new special for the evening that sounds delicious.  Being excited and hungry, you opt for the quick delicious special, instead of the time consuming entree you originally intended.  At the end of the night, you leave satisfied and happy, but in the back of your mind, don't you still have that original plan lurking?  Do you have the time, patience and resources to do this twice?  Do you use restraint, and stick to the original plan?  Or do you settle for the quick, delicious entree you opted for? 


Thanks!

[shef]

I suspect my unprotected 18650 2600mah cells will arrive before my TCSS order does.  So building the battery pack will be one of my first jobs for the internals of this project.

[shef]

2010-10-16:  Update
  Apparently the public consensus that Deal Extreme, though a real bargain price, is indeed incredibly slow.  My TCSS & Mouser orders both arrived yesterday, but I am still waiting for my JST connectors & 18650 cells from DX.


  I snapped this shot of all the new parts right after they arrived.  Clockwise, starting top left:

(50) Bourns Thick Film 71.5ohm resistors, (25) 8-32 1/8” button head hex screws, (2) 8-32 x 3/8" socket head, Machined button for Covertec clip, 2.1mm Power Jack & kill key, copper heat sink, speaker, DPDT Momentary orange illuminated (ring) switch, MHS 4" Double Female Grooved, MHS ribbed extension (powder coating RIB3), Screw on LED blade holder style 3 (powder coating BH32), MPS Pommel style 6, MPS clip, MPS insert style 1.

/

The insert and clip were simple to install, with a small pair of needle nose pliers.

All the hex screws are added to the grooved extension, and pieces are laid out on the mat to mock up placement of the ports & switches.



The lens holder isn't a perfect fit right out of the package.  A little modification with the dremel (sanding drum) is needed to allow the lens to rest correctly, and to allow enough clearance for the LED & bridge wiring.





The heat sink & nylon screws were used to hold the LED while soldering the bridge wires.  JST connectors will be used to wire the LED module connections to the board.  The lens holder was modified, and fits perfectly on top of the star.  I had some difficulty getting the solder to grab onto the pads,  I have a new soldering tip ordered (especially if i intend  to mount those transistors on the CF). :-\

I am still trying to track down 6" of sleeve material.

Next on the list:

-Drill/tap 8-32 hole in BH for retention screw

-Source/make shroud:  6" length, 40mm OD x 37mm ID 1.5 wall thickness

-Cut shroud shape

-Drill/tap anchor for shroud:  8-32  (shroud and hilt together)

-Drill 15mm hole for AV switch, thread w/ M16-1 tap (shroud and hilt together)
*Test fit. If able to fit without bezel, use a 23/32 endmill to countersink the AV switch. Otherwise, add a bezel.

-AUX switch: 1/8" pilot hole (shroud and hilt together) *test fit actuator.  May need to be a bit larger hole

- Mill in decorative line in shroud

-2.1mm Recharge port: 9/32” dill bit 5/16-32 tap (M8x.75 metric tap) (shroud and hilt together)

-Accent LED's: (shroud and hilt together) 1/8"

-Polish shroud

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

Keep in mind Deal Extreme is in China so shipping is slow to begin with.  TCSS and Mouser are both in the States ;).  Also, why you are using a 5 degree lens for a LEDEngin?  Normally you use a 10 degree collimating lens and matching holder to get a good mix. 

[shef]

Normally you use a 10 degree collimating lens and matching holder to get a good mix. 

Okay.  Thanks for the tip.  I had the 5 deg. on hand already.  I have a small 'wish list' for TCSS queued already, so I'll go ahead and tack those on.
While I'm at it, is it critical to use the adhesive pad between the star and the heat sink, or are the nylon screws sufficient?

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

With a Crystal Focus, it is always critical to use the thermal pad as you can blow the CF if you do not ;).  The nylon screws are simply to keep the star on the heatsink. The thermal pad is to isolate the LED.

[shef]

With a Crystal Focus, it is always critical to use the thermal pad as you can blow the CF if you do not ;).  The nylon screws are simply to keep the star on the heatsink. The thermal pad is to isolate the LED.

Duly noted.  That is important information.  I'm glad I asked.

I see the 10 deg lens at TCSS, but not a specific lens holder for it.  Should I be looking elsewhere?

R,G,B,A dice Minimum Vf are 2.24, 3.44, 3.20 2.24 respectively.  (RA= 4.48V  GB= 6.64) For testing purposes, what would be the safest/best power source to temporarily direct drive, so I can check my bridge wiring?  I want enough power to light the dice adequately, but not risk overdriving and causing damage.

edited 10/27/10 to reflect MINIMUM Vf ratings.

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

You could use that same holder or you can get one here: http://ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php . 

I would recommend a Power Supply (PSU).  Failing that, triple AAAs put out less than 1A discharge so are about as safe as you can get without the PSU.

[shef]

I would recommend a Power Supply (PSU).

Something like I just bought this.

[shef]

My buddy Stewart was kind enough to loan me his little drill press, so while I wait for my sleeve material to get sorted out, I can work on the blade holder.




I moved my work to the back deck, rather than the kitchen table for working with the drill press.  I originally wanted to use a 6 - 32 set screw, but I wasn't able to find one (other than the one currently in my Prophecy), so I went with the standard 8 - 32.  I clamped the BH in the vise with a towel to protect it from gettng bite marks.  I lined up the hole to land in one of the dark PC'd grooves, so when the screw is driven in, it will virtually disappear.



Drilling was nice and quick and easy.  Next, it was time to tap the threads by hand, then test fitting the screw.



After cleaning up the burrs inside the BH with the dremel, I slid in the blade, and secured it.    The set screw was about 4 threads longer than I would like, so it had to be ground.  Funny thing, I have NEVER bought electrical tape.  I was given a roll of electrical tape when I was 9 or 10 years old, and ever since then, I have always had some in a drawer somewhere.  I recently used some to 'costume' my V2 Prophecy in black to make it look a bit like a Vader, but other than that, I have had no real use for it.  Today, I put some of this electrical tape to use.



I taped the set screw to the hex wrench, so I could hold it while grinding with the dremel.  I ground of several threads worth of length with a cutting wheel, then rounded the end off and removed any sharp edges.  The ARKM 'razor' plug now fits nicely, and can be secured with minimal pressure, while the retention screw is flush with the hilt..

[shef]

Working with a 10W ledengin RGBA:  I know just enough about working with electronics to know that I still don't know nearly enough to do this properly on my own.   As recommended, I purchased a power supply for working on the wiring/resistance of the LED.  It is 2AMP, with variable voltage from 1.5 to 15 volts.  The battery solution I have planned would be 2x 18650s (7.4V), driving CF5 board (which I still don't have... but I digress).  After reading and reading, here on this forum, TCSS, and elsewhere, it seems each time I think I've answered a question for myself, 2 new ones pop up in its place (kinda like watching LOST).  There are a slew of variables, and I'm still trying to determine some constants.

1.  What would be the Vf of the CF5 board be?

2.  When wiring two dice in series, should I calculate for Vf based on the lowest of the maximum Vf ratings (approx. 3Vf)?  

3.  When direct driving from the power supply for testing & color mixing, which side of the load should the potentiometer be put on?