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Author Topic: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)  (Read 38215 times)

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Offline Guskenobi

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Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« on: July 13, 2008, 06:17:29 PM »
OK so here is a quick disassembly and or conversion for the Luke ANH

I don’t use a new metal blade holder but retain the old plastic cosmetic parts

Unscrew bottom and remove battery pack

Gently remove graflex pins at the emitter end of the saber using needle-nose pliers

Remove red button with eyeglass screwdriver. Be Careful not to scratch the silver knob
Remove screw located under Button

using the eyeglass screw driver remove the housing around the red button
It’s a real pain so go gently and carefully

Remove glass eye with eyeglass screwdriver. Be Careful not to scratch the silver knob
Remove screw located under glass eye

Again using the eyeglass screw driver remove the housing around the glass eye
It’s a real pain so go gently and carefully

GENTLY remove flat screw

Remove flat screw on switch box and gently pull of activator switch

Unscrew two philps head screws on the clamp and remove
Its best to hold the screws on the back with you thumb
Also turning the clamp so it goes around the bunny ears is easiest to take the clamp off

Next remove the 2 screws  holding the switch on
Pull gently on the switch and cut the switch off the board  you can solder the wires back together later. Be sure and leave enough wire to do this.

Gently pull out the saber insides from the top

Remove Pin using small punch

Remove Board housing from plastic blade holder . I do this by ever so gently lifting the black “lip” over the tiny pin as they do not drive in.

Remove plastic blade holder by going up the blade.

Now  you have to remove the blade pin

Use a dremel tool to clear enough blade away from the pin to remove with pliers
(on my first conversion I used a knife and ended up with 3 stitches in my thumb. I came home and the pin nearly fell out haha)

Take the cosmetic plastic blade holder and cut off the bottom section right under the second ridge.

smooth out the cut.

Solder the wires to the led

tuck the sensor in the sound board housing

Put an o ring around the led housing.

Slide it all back in the hilt.

then reattach the switch
Make sure when you put the cosmetic piece back in its  fairly tight

Completely put it all back together and You should have a converted LUKE ANH
« Last Edit: July 24, 2008, 06:11:25 PM by QUI-GON-JINN »

Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2008, 06:06:10 PM »
Stickied!  With clickable pics!


Offline bulldog

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2008, 05:59:25 PM »
My daughter is wanting a red lux in her anh saber(why) greens better. Brilliant! job.
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Offline The Highwayman

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2009, 01:46:06 PM »
Those brass pins, do they unscrew or are they pressure push in type pins?


« Last Edit: March 21, 2009, 01:59:14 PM by DarthCaden »


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Offline darth_call

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2009, 01:52:40 PM »
I just went double check on mine, ....they pull out

Offline The Highwayman

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2009, 02:01:07 PM »
Thanks DCv1.1. The only issue is, whenever I pull on them, the black plastic underneath flexes like it gonna break. I could care less about scratching and marring the pins, but I really don't want to break that inner sleeve. I guess I'll try again.



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Offline Jm419

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2009, 07:00:39 PM »
Hey, I just finished my first conversion with my father.  This guide was amazingly helpful; completely helped describe the whole process. 

A minor addition we discovered, which you might have mentioned in the quote "I do this by ever so gently lifting the black “lip” over the tiny pin as they do not drive in," was that the little doo-dad to the left of the red button section and towards the pommel - it hinders the movement of the entire assembly, in lieu of (in our experience) the "black lip."

But, this was indispensible for us, and very very helpful.
    


Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2009, 01:01:29 PM »


A minor addition we discovered, which you might have mentioned in the quote "I do this by ever so gently lifting the black “lip” over the tiny pin as they do not drive in," was that the little doo-dad to the left of the red button section and towards the pommel - it hinders the movement of the entire assembly, in lieu of (in our experience) the "black lip."
The black lip he is referring to is the tab that the pin goes through that holds the blade socket to the soundboard housing.  The "lip" or tab is part of the soundboard housing. The pins don't drive throgh on these sabers like they do on the other models of MR FX's do.


Offline Jm419

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2009, 06:27:03 PM »
Oh.  Got it.  Thanks.
    


Offline DarthYoda

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2009, 10:42:35 PM »
How do you make the led housing? How do solder it up? What is the most powerful led you can use if everything else is stock?

Offline Jm419

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2009, 02:12:13 PM »
What is the most powerful led you can use if everything else is stock?

I'm pretty sure it's a P4.  Maybe a Lux V, but nothing more than that.
    


Offline The Highwayman

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2009, 02:14:24 PM »
DO not use a LUX V! The power requirements will make burnt toast of your MR board! M boards have a make voltage of 6 volts.

A P4 or LedEngin 5 watt blue will be the brightest.


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Offline Jm419

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2009, 02:17:12 PM »
DO not use a LUX V! The power requirements will make burnt toast of your MR board! M boards have a make voltage of 6 volts.

A P4 or LedEngin 5 watt blue will be the brightest.

There we go.  We just needed one of our resident experts to chime in. 

The P4's the best choice, anyway.  It's cheap, and plenty bright.
    


Offline The Highwayman

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2009, 02:24:37 PM »
I'm hardly an expert... :D :D the best tihng ot do is order this - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Seoul-P4--P306.aspx

and this - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-IIIV-Lens-Holder--P7.aspx

and depending on the blade length you have, one of these - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-10-deg-viewing-angle-P5.aspx

or

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-5-deg-viewing-angle-P4.aspx

one of our talented sabersmiths may be able to make a metal blade holder for you as US is out of stock and TCSS doesn't seem to carry them anymore.


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Offline DarthYoda

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Re: Luke ANH dissasembly and conversion (PICTURE HEAVY)
« Reply #14 on: November 02, 2009, 04:40:48 PM »
Soooo, all i need is that stuff and a blde holder that is heatsinked? That's it? How do you wire the led up?