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This was my second go at a MHS Nihilus-like hilt.  I made improvements on my first iteration.  Thank you to Darth Chasm for the conduit tutorial, of course I used it here!  Mostly TCSS Chassis parts, but also used a Goth3Designs MHS compatible chassis module on the rear of the hilt.  It just worked out cleaner than my original chassis design.  MHS Speaker Holder 4 contains SE 28mm Bass Speaker that is deafeningly loud.  KSith's smoothswing package is aboard, and his latest version of Vengaence is liable to blow my speakers or my eardrums!  The clash is LOUD!  Saber also features Blue Tooth control via a Red Bear BLE Nano II. 

At any rate, the saber features 5 independent neopixel effect blades, all driven by the Proffie.
Blade 1:  Main Saber Blade/Neopixel Blade Plug
Blade 2:  Independent crystal chamber pulses on idle, matches blade when on.
Blade 3:  Clockwise cycle turbine behind crystal chamber.
Blade 4:  Anti-clockwise cycle turbine behind crystal chamber.
Blade 5:  Neopixel PLI Battery Meter (changes color as state of battery degrades)

Here are a couple pics of the finished saber first, and install in progress second.  All shrouds were hand cut, I have just simple tools, but I like the rough look of the hilt, its sithy. 

Install progression, this was VERY rough in of all the wires, none cut to length yet.


Thank you for checking it out.  Also, thank you to Madcow, TCSS, Shameem, Darth Chasm, Jedi Seth, Profezzorn, Zimmer, etc. and many others for the inspiration.  Charging on. 

Also check the other tabs. I remember seeing them, but I donít remember which tab it was under.
Did you save the configuration after you made the changes?

Have you tried to change the values manually on the SD card?

I could not see any effect on the sliders in RICE for the blade effects. I know RICE was working for other settings just not the blade effects.

Good idea I will try to do it manually in the SD card to test
Did you save the configuration after you made the changes?

Have you tried to change the values manually on the SD card?
Hey, does anyone know why I'd only have a solid blade on a CF 9 with XPE2 LED, Red, with resistor? I can connect to R.I.C.E.... this is basically the first test with this saber and I notice all the default fonts I get no shimmer or pulse and I can't get a blade effect at all during FOC or anything and R.I.C.E. can't affect the blade effects but I can adjust other stuff such as shift, dyshift, etc.

I rarely wire LED sabers and maybe overnight I'll think of something but right now I can't think of why this is happening (or not happening lol)

I did just wire another saber over the weekend that was LED no problems (a CF7) I got shimmer and all lol but for some reason I'm not seeing a pulse or blade effect on this one.

Thank you Erv and anyone else with ideas,
Wanted / Re: Want to buy a Rey Graflex Saber Plaque ASAP
« Last post by Darth Brooks on December 10, 2018, 05:39:03 PM »
You can try this guy?

You'll have to send the pic and font style and logo you want because he doesn't specialize in "Star Wars" stuff but he can do a mock up for you and his prices are very good and he can do custom sizes for you.

You can reach him directly by email at:

Here's his eBay page.
Lightsabers / Re: FS - One Replica Luke Skywalker Hero with Prizm5.1 + Neo Pixel blade
« Last post by Jaelous on December 10, 2018, 03:02:44 PM »
bump  :sidious:
Lightsabers / Re: FS - One Replicas Obi-wan Arena hilt. NBv4 RGB
« Last post by Jaelous on December 10, 2018, 03:00:59 PM »
Do you like OR's chassis? Planning to get one but wondering if it's install friendly or not.

It is very install friendly. you should probably use smaller wires then I did if you plan on doing a Prizm, vs the Nano.
Questions/Comments / Re: Why is MHS sleeving insulated?
« Last post by SirRawThunderMan on December 10, 2018, 06:23:10 AM »
I can't really think that's it's a corrosion resistance thing, given aluminium's natural resistance to corrosion in the first place. Still, I can work around it. It's just weird quirk, I guess.
Aluminum actually will corrode, it just won't rust like iron and steel. Instead it forms a layer of aluminum oxide which actually will protect the metal underneath somewhat, but it dulls the finish. Oils from your hands can also have a dulling effect on the finish over time. I think the coating is probably there to protect the shinny look of the sleeve material.

As good as idea as any, I suppose.

Anyway, for anyone who is interested, the fastest way I found to remove the coating was to dunk my piece of sleeving in a lye bath for about thirty seconds. I used about 700ml tap water and a couple of teaspoons of caustic soda drain cleaner, followed by running it under a tap for a good five minutes.

Wear gloves and face shielding, lye is VERY nasty stuff.