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Author Topic: SOLVED: Simple Neopixel Wiring on Prizm 5.5 with Plecter Pixel Connector = no...  (Read 2060 times)

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Offline EXAR KUN

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Hey guys, hey Erv'

I've done a simple wiring job on this Prizm 5.5 but I'm not getting the blade to light up. Tried several different blades that work in other sabers with Prizm 5.1.



This one is Prizm 5.5.... is there something I should know regarding the parameters that I may be missing?

I tried the stock parameters after changing the number of pixels in the ladder to 130, and after trying both the stock LS settings and the setting proposed in the manual for skinny strips (which I'm using) still to no effect.

The hilt has two speakers and the saber comes on... but no lighting for the blade is working.

So I tried re-wiring the board from scratch, and it still didn't produce lighting, only sound and sound FX. So then I thought maybe it's the Plecter Pixel Blade connector on the hilt side. I wired another one and replaced it. Still no lighting for the blade.

Any ideas? I slept on this problem and only thing I can think of is the board is not neopixel capable for some reason? I have another Prizm, which I will being wiring in place of this right now. But I still want an answer on why this one isn't working (the board is brand new from TCSS) and if I'm doing something improperly for the new 5.5 version then I'll also be doing it wrong on the next one, too. So I do need to solve this.

All the wiring is very simple on this build... I'm using 26 guage and the same setup as in many other sabers. The resistor is in the blade for this build. Strong battery.

I even tried swapping SD cards from my working Prizm 5.1 Graflex lightsaber and the blade won't light up in this Asajj build, but when I put that same SD card back in the Graflex Prizm 5.1, everything works in that fine.

« Last Edit: March 16, 2019, 10:09:37 AM by EXAR KUN »



Offline jbkuma

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The resistor is really just for signal integrity, so unless the resistor value is too high, that would not be an issue.  Wire gauge should also not be an issue, even if it was insufficient it would get hot and and maybe melt, not simply fail to work.

Have you tried tacking some pixels directly to the board?  That would be my next step, reduce confounding factors and work from there.  If the directly wired pixels don't work you know it is the board or the settings.  You can also try connecting the strip's power directly to the power source (or a separate one with a common ground) and connect just the signal wire to the board. 

Offline EXAR KUN

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The resistor is really just for signal integrity, so unless the resistor value is too high, that would not be an issue.  Wire gauge should also not be an issue, even if it was insufficient it would get hot and and maybe melt, not simply fail to work.

Have you tried tacking some pixels directly to the board?  That would be my next step, reduce confounding factors and work from there.  If the directly wired pixels don't work you know it is the board or the settings.  You can also try connecting the strip's power directly to the power source (or a separate one with a common ground) and connect just the signal wire to the board.

Thank you sir! I will try these now and post here to let you know what happened



Offline EXAR KUN

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Great news for me, the small strip of pixels wired to the board works, so I know the board is good :)

Now just need to figure out what's happening between the board and my emitter. Almost solved. I'll post back up when it's completely fixed. I was really worried because I have a severely late Count Dooku almost ready to test with a 5.5 Prizm and was worried I did whatever wrong thing to that, too :)

Thank you Jason for the guidance



Offline EXAR KUN

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Solved. Can't pinpoint what change did it, but it works now. Rewiring this second time seems to have fixed the issue



 

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