Couple of small updates on this one....
Zark opted for the small white mini-tactile, and I just happened to have a 3-D printed tactile switch mount from TCSS:
Being designed for the MHSv1 i.d. of 1.25", it was of course, too big to fit. I cut a small section of it out to make it into a "C-clip" instead, like I usually do with the sink drain pvc pieces I use for the other push button mini switches:
A little trimming, and it was a perfect fit.
I marked off on the hilt where the hole needed to go:
Then drilled it, and checked the fit:
Nice, I like that look, and it is perfectly functional. Small enough to not be a bother when handling the saber, yet easy to activate.
So here it stood after that bit of work last week:
I still had the small issue of the grip section wanting to spin, since it's a loose enough fit to do so, and to fix that and solve another issue I'll get into later, I decided to drill and tap for a small 4-40 button head screw:
Being small and out of the way, this will serve a dual purpose.
This is the pommel grille I plan to use, it's the last one I have:
There are a couple of other options, one being the standard chrome grille I use on the Padawan Series sabers I build, or I could use one of the more expensive MHS MPS inserts.
Here's what I finished today:
This is the sound board cradle, or the bare bones of it anyway. Made from a TCSS chassis disc for the ribbed extensions, 4-40 threaded rod, nylon spacers and 4-40 hex nuts in brass, this fits inside the 1.25" aluminum tube just fine, but it's a bit loose since the i.d. of the piece is 1.18" and the MHS ribbed's are 1.15".
Remember the 4-40 screw in the grip section? Here's the other purpose it will serve:
I drilled and tapped the chassis disc with 4-40 threads right in the center of the disc:
The screw threads right in...
Installed:
The cradle has a nice solid fit to it, so if the saber should see any dueling, it will be securely held in place.
From the emitter end:
This should allow for easy enough access to the sd card with the board mounted in the correct direction. It will require the use of tweezers or needle nosed pliers, but I will also be adding a RICE port pig tail to the saber which will be inside the battery compartment and hidden when not in use.
Speaking of the battery compartment:
This is a low tech, but cheap way to keep the single 18650 from rattling around in side the hilt. Just a simple piece of foam wrapped up and fit in between the MHS pieces. I tried to use some chassis discs to mount the cell, but none of the parts I have on hand would allow for the cell to be easily removed and replaced. Replacement is necessary on this saber as it will be serving a s a trooping saber and will need to be in use for 4-5 hours at a time.
With all of that done, this saber is ready for final assembly! More on that as work progresses. ;D