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Author Topic: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T  (Read 11216 times)

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Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2015, 09:45:40 AM »
I will have an update on this tonight after work,  waiting on the battery to charge in my camera.  ::) The grip section is pretty much finished,  and despite a few imperfections,  looks pretty good on there.  ;D


Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2015, 09:06:35 PM »
And here's what I got done before heading off to work Wednesday afternoon....

I put the grip section onto a scrap piece of aluminum tubing and sanded and sanded and sanded it some more,  until I finally had this:

Now that's much better than the washers!

There are,  however,  some issues with it:

There's a nice little nick in the rounded end of the first grip slot on this side of the saber.  I can probably get rid of that with more filing,  which will not hurt anything,  since I was thinking this should be where the AUX button will go.  Zark and I will have to discuss that next.  also notice the scratches on the inner tube as well.

The other problem with the piece is on the other side:

This is what happens if you don't maintain tight control of your Dremel when cutting a piece of tubing...the disc got away from me and skittered across the tube,  leaving these marks.  I sanded the crap out of the part to lighten them up as best I could,  and may still work on it some more,  especially if I file the the grip slots deeper on the other side to eliminate that little gouge.

There's also a nice scratch in the inner grip tube on this side:

The problem with sanding out scratches on the inner tube is that the more material I remove,  the more loosely the grip section fits.  I had planned on it being a tight fit in between the two MHS sections and be pressed in between them enough not to allow for it to spin,  but that didn't work out as planned. ::) 

I could fix that by epoxying the two pieces together,  or using the AUX button,  depending on which type I use,  to prevent it from moving.  One way to hide the scratches would be to paint the grips and the inner tube,  but I'm kind of liking the brushed aluminum look....it contrasts nicely with the chrome pieces without being a distraction.

Overall,  though,  I think this is a big improvement over the original design:


Offline Sandpeople are people too

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2015, 09:25:37 PM »
much better than the white ribs.  scratches give character. 

Offline Zark_T

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #18 on: April 15, 2015, 10:27:52 PM »
I don't mind the scratches

Offline sithslayer1

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2015, 05:57:53 AM »
Much better looking, and the scratches add realism, this is supposed to be a field weapon, it should show signs of wear.

Offline EXAR KUN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #20 on: April 16, 2015, 08:10:40 AM »
I think this is really, really nice. Better than the original design. I like the all metal.



Offline Wildcard

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #21 on: April 16, 2015, 11:13:50 AM »
I'm really liking this build; the new grip section looks great.

Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #22 on: May 06, 2015, 09:26:30 AM »
Couple of small updates on this one....

Zark opted for the small white mini-tactile,  and I just happened to have a 3-D printed tactile switch mount from TCSS:
 
Being designed for the MHSv1 i.d. of 1.25",  it was of course,  too big to fit.  I cut a small section of it out to make it into a "C-clip" instead,  like I usually do with the sink drain pvc pieces I use for the other push button mini switches:
   
A little trimming,  and it was a perfect fit.

I marked off on the hilt where the hole needed to go:


Then drilled it, and checked the fit:
 
Nice,  I like that look,  and it is perfectly functional.  Small enough to not be a bother when handling the saber,  yet easy to activate.

So here it stood after that bit of work last week:
 

I still had the small issue of the grip section wanting to spin,  since it's a loose enough fit to do so,  and to fix that and solve another issue I'll get into later,  I decided to drill and tap for a small 4-40 button head screw:

Being small and out of the way,  this will serve a dual purpose.

This is the pommel grille I plan to use,  it's the last one I have:
 
There are a couple of other options,  one being the standard chrome grille I use on the Padawan Series sabers I build,  or I could use one of the more expensive MHS MPS inserts.

Here's what I finished today:

This is the sound board cradle,  or the bare bones of it anyway.  Made from a TCSS chassis disc for the ribbed extensions,  4-40 threaded rod,  nylon spacers and 4-40 hex nuts in brass, this fits inside the 1.25" aluminum tube just fine,  but it's a bit loose since the i.d. of the piece is 1.18" and the MHS ribbed's are 1.15".

Remember the 4-40 screw in the grip section?  Here's the other purpose it will serve:
 

I drilled and tapped the chassis disc with 4-40 threads right in the center of the disc:
   
The screw threads right in...

Installed:
   
The cradle has a nice solid fit to it,  so if the saber should see any dueling,  it will be securely held in place.

From the emitter end:

This should allow for easy enough access to the sd card with the board mounted in the correct direction.  It will require the use of tweezers or needle nosed pliers,  but I will also be adding a RICE port pig tail to the saber which will be inside the battery compartment and hidden when not in use.

Speaking of the battery compartment:

This is a low tech,  but cheap way to keep the single 18650 from rattling around in side the hilt.  Just a simple piece of foam wrapped up and fit in between the MHS pieces.  I tried to use some chassis discs to mount the cell,  but none of the parts I have on hand would allow for the cell to be easily removed and replaced.  Replacement is necessary on this saber as it will be serving a s a trooping saber and will need to be in use for 4-5 hours at a time.

With all of that done,  this saber is ready for final assembly!  More on that as work progresses.  ;D
« Last Edit: May 06, 2015, 08:45:31 PM by QUI-GON JINN »


Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2015, 09:50:43 AM »
Wiring commenced today!  Here's what I managed to finish before stopping to get ready to go to the real job.

I started prepping the board by pre-tinning the pads,  then added the wires:

I have my own color code I like to use for these Crystal Shard 2.5 installs:
Red (twisted): battery positive
Black (twisted): battery ground
Blue: RICE RXD
Purple: RICE TXD
Yellow: speaker (both positive and negative)
Gray: AUX button (negative has black tracers added)

Blade led wiring code
Orange: Common positive for the blade led
Red: red led ground
Green: green led ground
Blue: blue led ground

Switch wiring color code
White: switch positive
White/tracer: switch ground
Orange: Led positive
Brown: led ground

With the wiring on the board done, I moved on to installing the board which involved attaching the switch wiring:

This will be secured to the clear plastic mount I added (no pics of that) by foam mounting tape for cushioning,  and then a "strap" of heat shrink tubing.

To get the battery connector,  speaker and RICE port wires through the rear section,  I tapped them up with masking tape:


Now I needed to add the AUX button:
 



With that soldered in place,  I could assemble the front grip section:



Getting that screw and the hole in the chassis mount disc to line up was easier than I expected,  and the screw threaded right in,  securing the chassis.

Now I had to get the switch installed:




Installed:

There should still be plenty of room to reach in there and install the SD card.  I was planning to do that before I put it together,  but got ahead of myself.

Next up,  is the pommel end of the saber,  where I'll have to attach the speaker and RICE port:


Offline Yoda

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #24 on: May 07, 2015, 10:27:32 AM »


I put the grip section onto a scrap piece of aluminum tubing and sanded and sanded and sanded it some more,  until I finally had this:

Now that's much better than the washers!

There are,  however,  some issues with it:

There's a nice little nick in the rounded end of the first grip slot on this side of the saber.  I can probably get rid of that with more filing,  which will not hurt anything,  since I was thinking this should be where the AUX button will go.  Zark and I will have to discuss that next.  also notice the scratches on the inner tube as well.

The other problem with the piece is on the other side:

This is what happens if you don't maintain tight control of your Dremel when cutting a piece of tubing...the disc got away from me and skittered across the tube,  leaving these marks.  I sanded the crap out of the part to lighten them up as best I could,  and may still work on it some more,  especially if I file the the grip slots deeper on the other side to eliminate that little gouge.

There's also a nice scratch in the inner grip tube on this side:

The problem with sanding out scratches on the inner tube is that the more material I remove,  the more loosely the grip section fits.  I had planned on it being a tight fit in between the two MHS sections and be pressed in between them enough not to allow for it to spin,  but that didn't work out as planned. ::) 

I could fix that by epoxying the two pieces together,  or using the AUX button,  depending on which type I use,  to prevent it from moving.  One way to hide the scratches would be to paint the grips and the inner tube,  but I'm kind of liking the brushed aluminum look....it contrasts nicely with the chrome pieces without being a distraction.



Hey there Master Qui-gon, Looking nice and shiny as always :)

I do have a suggestion to remedy those inner slots in that center section of the hilt.
You could use some chrome sign vinyl or chrome mylar strips and slide it down into those slots, trim it up with an Xacto knife and then the inner 3 slots
would match the chrome of the outer shell and the center would stay brushed for the proper contrast  ;)





Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #25 on: May 12, 2015, 09:41:40 AM »
i'll keep that in mind and may give it a try on another saber,  this one needs finishing ASAP...

I had time this morning to work on the speaker and RICE port wiring today:


I plugged in the battery and heard a boot sound,  pressed the activation button,  and it powered on:

I tested the RICE port before heat shrinking it to ensure it worked,  and it did.  The only thing left is to wire up the main blade led which arrived in the mail on Saturday morning.  I hope to have this finished up tonight or tomorrow morning.


Offline Caine

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #26 on: May 12, 2015, 10:46:18 AM »
Love this one, especially with the grip updates. Another fine weapon!

Offline Zark_T

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2015, 12:19:35 PM »
can't wait to troop with this!

Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #28 on: May 19, 2015, 12:02:57 PM »
I finished up the wiring on this one this morning, I'll have update pics and likely the finished pictures tonight after work. Look for that around midnight E.D.T.


Offline QUI-GON JINN

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Re: Chrome Saber 41 (CS-41) Build for Zark_T
« Reply #29 on: May 19, 2015, 09:11:13 PM »
Okay,  final update on this one,  hopefully!   ;D

After getting the correct resistors in the mail yesterday,  I made time this morning to wire up the led.  This involved removing the front grip section and adding in resistors for the red,  green and blue Cree XPE 2's.  Once those were inline,  I soldered up the led:


Before buttoning it up,  I thought now would be a good time to check it to make sure it actually works.  I plugged the battery and hit the activation switch:
 

Then scrolled through the other colors by pressing both the Activation and aux switches at the same time:



Cool,  all three colors lit up,  and were pretty danged bright.

I added the adhesive pad to the back of the led.  This not only helps with thermal transfer,  but will also act as an electrical insulator for the led:


After some tedious moments peeling off the backing paper on the pad,  I stuck the star to the heat sink:


Added the lens:


Then screwed the heat sink cover/cap into place:


Then screwed the blade holder back onto the hilt:


All set for the first completed fire up:


It's alive!!!


I added one of my blades:


and scrolled through the default colors:
Orange...


Yellow...


Green...


Blue...


Red...


Bright blue/teal...


The switch led also works as intended,  and is also nice and bright:


Finished Final Pics coming up in a few minutes.  :))


 

retrousse