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MHS-Based Luke Skywalker Return of The Jedi-Inspired Saber with G-Core Evo
The Basics:MHS parts from thecustomsabershop.com
Vader's MHS-compatible ribbed/neck section
PC'ing by Gemini Concepts
UltraSoundv2.5
LuxV Green
1W Speaker
7.2V Li-ion pack
In-hilt recharge
The Goodies:G-Core Evo 8)
Wireless Switch Mechanism
The G-Core Evo is my second tier line of internal electronics modules. Whereas the G-Core Prix (as recently seen on the K3GR1 Advent) completely encases the soundboard and batteries, the G-Core Evo is designed with budgets in mind, instead integrating a compromise between having a displayable "Core" and still having ready access to the board/battery.
The saber was intended to showcase one avenue of potential of TCSS' MHS parts system, which I have always advocated as a benchmark upon which so many people in our hobby base their sabers.
I started with a basic L-ROTJ layout using MHS parts. The one addition was Vader's MHS-compatible ribbed/neck piece, which negated the 1" of flat space common with the standard MHS part. At the time I was not aware that Tim didn't sanction the run, but since I had already paid for it, it didn't make sense not to use it...
First step, PLANNING.
The primary "gimmick" of this saber would be the ability to remove the outer saber body to reveal the entire core inside. The narrow neck piece of the L-ROTJ saber layout, however, presented a problem: I could not simply remove the blade holder and slide out all the guts, because the neck was thinner than rest of the body, and the heatsink was wider than it, too. SO, that meant I would have to devise a way to
completely separate the LED/heatsink from the inner main core, WITHOUT any wires. Hmmm...
To start, this is what I came up with:
The main module would hold a stacked batt pack and USv2, with a cosmetic extension lathed to look like the "guts" of a saber. The heatsink held one side of a JST connector, and that long cylinder held the other side of the JST connector. The cylinder was adjustable for depth, so I could precisely align the connectors when screwed in place within the MHS pieces before securing it in place to the main module with a set screw.
Everything was adjusted and aligned so that it was a snug fit inside the MHS pieces. Checking alignment here...
I then took the basic core, here:
And machined a few details:
That long cylinder was ported to show a crystal inside it, and the LED wires (from the JST) were run under it via brass tube. Behind the crystal was a 4 pin accent LED, with tiny wires cut to length to meet up with the USv2.5, again with ZERO slack.
Finally, the heatsink was extended and decorated a bit:
Final tests of alignment of the finished module:
[size=12
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Now, it was time to get to work on the electronics. [/size]
The gimmick of being able to unscrew the entire body off of the saber presented a new challenge. How do I have a switch, which is on the outside of the saber body wall? The answer: create a spring tensioned plunger. In effect a "wireless switch", this mechanism is very simple. It consists of a hole drilled into the saber body, hidden beneath the clamp box. A hole is drilled into the clamp box's switch plate face, and the pin is set with spring tension between the bottom of that plate and the outer saber body wall. The pin is cut to a specific length, such that when it is depressed from the switch plate face side, it protrudes downward INTO the saber body, by about 0.08", which is just enough to touch a flat tactile switch embedded on the Core module itself. Essentially, you're reaching into the saber to turn it on :o. When you release the switch plate, the spring pushes the pin up and out of the saber body, so now the threads are free to spin and you can disassemble the saber. ...If that didn't make any sense, just watch my YouTube videos about this saber ;D
The switch needs to stay flush with the core module, or it would snag along the inner body wall when unscrewing the pieces. So, I began by milling a channel for the switch to a precise depth:
Filed recess for the USv2.5 to sit with enough clearance not to actually touch the wall.
Wiring in place...tweezers required:
All finished and sewn in:
This shot shows the minimal wire slack in the pommel. The pommel was screwed in "in reverse". In other words, the pommel was attached to the G-Core, then, using tweezers through the port hole, the port has held steady while the threaded pommel insert was carefully rotated around the stationary port itself until it caught the threads and slowly rose until secure. The result is zero twisted wires, and zero slack in the wire space between the port leads and the speaker channel pass.
FINISHED PICS:
Closeup of the forward module:
Top view, showing just the forward module again:
On the floor:
And here is the completed saber, with clothes:
And without clothes, in "display mode" with just the forward module exposed:
The saber can also be displayed with both the forward and rear modules exposed. I don't have a picture of that...but it's in the videos.
OKAY, VIDEOS. Be sure to watch all three, in order, so it all makes sense:
1 of 3:
2 of 3:
3 of 3: