FX-Sabers.com
The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => Parks Sabers => Topic started by: Pozesed on December 30, 2015, 06:32:59 AM
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Im looking at buying the Graflex 2.0 from parks. It says on the site that putting it together would take 10 minutes. Is this just using screws or would I need glue etc. Looking to get a static ESB/TFA hilt.
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im in the same boat with you based on the description i think its just screws just bought the kit this morning let me know what you think of it to if you decide to get it
personally im very excited to get my first graflex even if its a replica and not vintage
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The Graflex 2.0 arrives nearly complete. You just add the grips (they have adhesive on them), the card, the d-ring and the glass eye or second red button. No glue is needed.
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The Graflex 2.0 arrives nearly complete. You just add the grips (they have adhesive on them), the card, the d-ring and the glass eye or second red button. No glue is needed.
This was very helpful, thank you. I've ordered one of the remaining Korbanth Graflex 2.0's cant wait.
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im in the same boat with you based on the description i think its just screws just bought the kit this morning let me know what you think of it to if you decide to get it
personally im very excited to get my first graflex even if its a replica and not vintage
I have it ordered, hoping it arrives with the next few weeks! Im the same, Im not bothered that it's not vintage, just want a fairly movie accurate display hilt :grin:
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It looks good enough. Most people won't notice the differences. Plus, there are things you can do to add to it's original look. You can buy a 7/8" blade plug that resembles the internals of a graflex flash. A member here is selling some. You can put mylar tape on the clamp. The kobold d-rings I got are shiny. They can be easily upgraded. You can get replica red buttons most anywhere both working or screw on. The only thing that would really bother me for a display piece would be the sound holes but those of us that are adding electronics are quite pleased.
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I think from what Ive seen it looks great especially when compared with the price of a vintage graflex. I have seen the graflex blade plugs, I'll be getting one of them and I think I'll eventually replace the end cap with a non sound hole versian and put it in a nice display box.
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I think from what Ive seen it looks great especially when compared with the price of a vintage graflex. I have seen the graflex blade plugs, I'll be getting one of them and I think I'll eventually replace the end cap with a non sound hole versian and put it in a nice display box.
id like to get one of those blade plugs once i get my graflex sager in the mail. who sells them???
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It looks good enough. Most people won't notice the differences. Plus, there are things you can do to add to it's original look. You can buy a 7/8" blade plug that resembles the internals of a graflex flash. A member here is selling some. You can put mylar tape on the clamp. The kobold d-rings I got are shiny. They can be easily upgraded. You can get replica red buttons most anywhere both working or screw on. The only thing that would really bother me for a display piece would be the sound holes but those of us that are adding electronics are quite pleased.
id like one of those blade plugs once i get my graflex in the mail who sells them???
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Graflex Blade Plug Thread 1" and 7/8" Sizes Available! Choose your length! (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=46977.0;topicseen)
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Graflex Blade Plug Thread 1" and 7/8" Sizes Available! Choose your length! (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=46977.0;topicseen)
sweet thanks bud
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No bother
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Is the Parks 2.0 kit the exact same kit you can order from Korbanth? If so is there any advantage ordering from one place over the other?
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Same kit. Parks customer service is spotty at times, can be slow to reply and ship, while others report no issues. Randy (Korbanth) has them in stock ready to ship and is very fast to reply. PM him, confirm if he has any left.
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Im looking at buying the Graflex 2.0 from parks. It says on the site that putting it together would take 10 minutes. Is this just using screws or would I need glue etc. Looking to get a static ESB/TFA hilt.
just an update bud i ordered my 2.0 kit January 1st and i got it today on the 11th of January
the process of putting it together takes but 10 mi and is only screwing in the grips and d-rings and some momentary buttons
i wanted to post some pics of the parts and construction because a lot of people seen to have questions about the 2.0 kit so ill be posting some pic once i get off work tonight
and again once i start my chassis build for the saber
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Im looking at buying the Graflex 2.0 from parks. It says on the site that putting it together would take 10 minutes. Is this just using screws or would I need glue etc. Looking to get a static ESB/TFA hilt.
just an update bud i ordered my 2.0 kit January 1st and i got it today on the 11th of January
the process of putting it together takes but 10 mi and is only screwing in the grips and d-rings and some momentary buttons
i wanted to post some pics of the parts and construction because a lot of people seen to have questions about the 2.0 kit so ill be posting some pic once i get off work tonight
and again once i start my chassis build for the saber
Thanks for getting back about it. Mine shipped on the 2nd so hopefully it'll arrive any day now. Sounds easy enough to put together, I'd love to see the pics when you get a chance. Im also building a crystal chamber for mine with some led's etc so hopefully I'll get some photos of that up soon
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I ordered two for a ANH and ESB build on Christmas Day from Jeff Parks and one arrived today- January 11, 2016. As described, it took about 10 minutes to assemble. I assembled the ANH version. Note, different to a Vintage Graflex, the bottom 3-Cell Part comes off differently. For the 3-Cell part on the Korbanth/Parks 2.0, you first have to unlock the clamp and then you have to unscrew the 3-Cell part to get it off. If you want an ESB version which has 6 grips vs 7 grips, you just unscrew the base plate where the D-Ring and Sound holes are, flip the 3-cell 180 degrees so that you now have the 6 hole pattern for the grips showing, rescrew the base plate on and then rescrew the 3 -cell and then use the notched grips. The top part has four screws that connect to the inside ObiWan blade holder. The front screw between the power sockets, a screw in the faux power switch, a screw holding the beer tab and the screw holding the clamp. in order to slide the top off, you have to unscrew the 4 brass conductors.
Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
My question is how do you assemble red buttons and switch into the button assembly and have it stay? Also,when I place the red button on the momentary switch, I do not feel the switch activating? Any ideas or help with the red button and momentary switch assembly is appreciated.
This is my first post contributing and not sure how to place pictures properly.
-Jonathon
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Im looking at buying the Graflex 2.0 from parks. It says on the site that putting it together would take 10 minutes. Is this just using screws or would I need glue etc. Looking to get a static ESB/TFA hilt.
just an update bud i ordered my 2.0 kit January 1st and i got it today on the 11th of January
the process of putting it together takes but 10 mi and is only screwing in the grips and d-rings and some momentary buttons
i wanted to post some pics of the parts and construction because a lot of people seen to have questions about the 2.0 kit so ill be posting some pic once i get off work tonight
and again once i start my chassis build for the saber
Thanks for getting back about it. Mine shipped on the 2nd so hopefully it'll arrive any day now. Sounds easy enough to put together, I'd love to see the pics when you get a chance. Im also building a crystal chamber for mine with some led's etc so hopefully I'll get some photos of that up soon
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=87153;album=29 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=87153;album=29)
so heres the pics of my empty as well hopefully i get my chassis parts very soon
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I ordered two for a ANH and ESB build on Christmas Day from Jeff Parks and one arrived today- January 11, 2016. As described, it took about 10 minutes to assemble. I assembled the ANH version. Note, different to a Vintage Graflex, the bottom 3-Cell Part comes off differently. For the 3-Cell part on the Korbanth/Parks 2.0, you first have to unlock the clamp and then you have to unscrew the 3-Cell part to get it off. If you want an ESB version which has 6 grips vs 7 grips, you just unscrew the base plate where the D-Ring and Sound holes are, flip the 3-cell 180 degrees so that you now have the 6 hole pattern for the grips showing, rescrew the base plate on and then rescrew the 3 -cell and then use the notched grips. The top part has four screws that connect to the inside ObiWan blade holder. The front screw between the power sockets, a screw in the faux power switch, a screw holding the beer tab and the screw holding the clamp. in order to slide the top off, you have to unscrew the 4 brass conductors.
Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
My question is how do you assemble red buttons and switch into the button assembly and have it stay? Also,when I place the red button on the momentary switch, I do not feel the switch activating? Any ideas or help with the red button and momentary switch assembly is appreciated.
This is my first post contributing and not sure how to place pictures properly.
-Jonathon
i think toy have to soder the weirs on the back of the two dots on the switch and run them through the hole and as for the red switch im planning on just maybe an adhesive of some sort
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Ken,
How did you get the momentary switch to fit into the button housing? Did you have to grind away some of the board? Are you able to press the button down and it comes back up?
Joanthon
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I ordered two for a ANH and ESB build on Christmas Day from Jeff Parks and one arrived today- January 11, 2016. As described, it took about 10 minutes to assemble. I assembled the ANH version. Note, different to a Vintage Graflex, the bottom 3-Cell Part comes off differently. For the 3-Cell part on the Korbanth/Parks 2.0, you first have to unlock the clamp and then you have to unscrew the 3-Cell part to get it off. If you want an ESB version which has 6 grips vs 7 grips, you just unscrew the base plate where the D-Ring and Sound holes are, flip the 3-cell 180 degrees so that you now have the 6 hole pattern for the grips showing, rescrew the base plate on and then rescrew the 3 -cell and then use the notched grips. The top part has four screws that connect to the inside ObiWan blade holder. The front screw between the power sockets, a screw in the faux power switch, a screw holding the beer tab and the screw holding the clamp. in order to slide the top off, you have to unscrew the 4 brass conductors.
Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
My question is how do you assemble red buttons and switch into the button assembly and have it stay? Also,when I place the red button on the momentary switch, I do not feel the switch activating? Any ideas or help with the red button and momentary switch assembly is appreciated.
This is my first post contributing and not sure how to place pictures properly.
-Jonathon
You ordered yours from Parks's Christmas Day and already have them :shocked:
I have one coming from Korbanth soon and I have another on order with Park's that I placed a week before Christmas , can't wait to get them. Great post by the way, thanks for the pics.
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Ken,
How did you get the momentary switch to fit into the button housing? Did you have to grind away some of the board? Are you able to press the button down and it comes back up?
Joanthon
yes,
because the two switches were attached to the ESB clamp card they had an edge on them keeping them from fitting
all you have to do is take a fine file and file it so its round on all edges and then it fits and yes with the red button on top of the momentary switch in the hosing the button is working as i should
when filing try to file only what you need to it a good tight fit in the housing :smiley:
hope that helps a bit
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I ordered two for a ANH and ESB build on Christmas Day from Jeff Parks and one arrived today- January 11, 2016. As described, it took about 10 minutes to assemble. I assembled the ANH version. Note, different to a Vintage Graflex, the bottom 3-Cell Part comes off differently. For the 3-Cell part on the Korbanth/Parks 2.0, you first have to unlock the clamp and then you have to unscrew the 3-Cell part to get it off. If you want an ESB version which has 6 grips vs 7 grips, you just unscrew the base plate where the D-Ring and Sound holes are, flip the 3-cell 180 degrees so that you now have the 6 hole pattern for the grips showing, rescrew the base plate on and then rescrew the 3 -cell and then use the notched grips. The top part has four screws that connect to the inside ObiWan blade holder. The front screw between the power sockets, a screw in the faux power switch, a screw holding the beer tab and the screw holding the clamp. in order to slide the top off, you have to unscrew the 4 brass conductors.
Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
My question is how do you assemble red buttons and switch into the button assembly and have it stay? Also,when I place the red button on the momentary switch, I do not feel the switch activating? Any ideas or help with the red button and momentary switch assembly is appreciated.
This is my first post contributing and not sure how to place pictures properly.
-Jonathon
You ordered yours from Parks's Christmas Day and already have them :shocked:
I have one coming from Korbanth soon and I have another on order with Park's that I placed a week before Christmas , can't wait to get them. Great post by the way, thanks for the pics.
You are welcome! I contacted Jeff today in regards to when my second hilt ships and he said my second one will come in two-three weeks due to restocking. He has been very helpful.
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Ken,
How did you get the momentary switch to fit into the button housing? Did you have to grind away some of the board? Are you able to press the button down and it comes back up?
Joanthon
yes,
because the two switches were attached to the ESB clamp card they had an edge on them keeping them from fitting
all you have to do is take a fine file and file it so its round on all edges and then it fits and yes with the red button on top of the momentary switch in the hosing the button is working as i should
when filing try to file only what you need to it a good tight fit in the housing :smiley:
hope that helps a bit
Thanks Ken!
For some reason, the hole inside my red buttons are too deep and does not allow for any up down motion, so I had to place a little rubber spacer to allow up and down clearance.
I got an email from Jeff at lunch today and recommended exactly as you recommended!
"Use a fingernail file and chase around the switch circuit board until a good fit is produced.
Very small drops of superglue, at 12, 4, 8 o'clock, on the inside lip of the button body, will secure the switch circuit board.
Another very small drop of superglue, on the top surface of the switch, will secure the red button to the switch."
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So the holes are where the wires go and are soldered? Are you going to place some sort of insulator to cover the four legs to prevent shorting out the circuit?
It looks like the legs connect to the wire holes and if they touch the side of the metal button housing, it will short the circuit.
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Ken,
How did you get the momentary switch to fit into the button housing? Did you have to grind away some of the board? Are you able to press the button down and it comes back up?
Joanthon
yes,
because the two switches were attached to the ESB clamp card they had an edge on them keeping them from fitting
all you have to do is take a fine file and file it so its round on all edges and then it fits and yes with the red button on top of the momentary switch in the hosing the button is working as i should
when filing try to file only what you need to it a good tight fit in the housing :smiley:
hope that helps a bit
Thanks Ken!
For some reason, the hole inside my red buttons are too deep and does not allow for any up down motion, so I had to place a little rubber spacer to allow up and down clearance.
I got an email from Jeff at lunch today and recommended exactly as you recommended!
"Use a fingernail file and chase around the switch circuit board until a good fit is produced.
Very small drops of superglue, at 12, 4, 8 o'clock, on the inside lip of the button body, will secure the switch circuit board.
Another very small drop of superglue, on the top surface of the switch, will secure the red button to the switch."
Question-
So the holes are where the wires go and are soldered? Are you going to place some sort of insulator to cover the four legs to prevent shorting out the circuit?
It looks like the legs connect to the wire holes and if they touch the side of the metal button housing, it will short the circuit.
so i looked at the switches again and i looked at similar tactile momentary switches on tcss and it looks like the legs are the grounding pins and those are what you solder to the weirs
heres a link to the switch and a few others at tcss
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx)
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as for the short circuits i was going to put one 1/16Th heat shrink on the pins after i solder the weirs to them
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i did some more looking and no the points are ot the 2 dots but the pins int he video below he explains how to solder these kind of momentary tactile switches basically you solder one pin from each side to complete the circuit
How To Use Tactile Switches (B3F-1102) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VbHPB_2Ws)
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Thanks Ken!
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Anyone know how I can get some spare red buttons for this build? Preferably with the tactile switches?
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Anyone know how I can get some spare red buttons for this build? Preferably with the tactile switches?
Post a wanted ad, or purchase another kit and make a ANH / TFA lightsaber. That would give you an extra red button.
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Yeh I didn't really want to purchase a whole other kit just for a couple of buttons...
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Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
I noticed that most of the user who assembled the ANH version placed the clamp with the bubblestrip facing the right side of the hilt; in ANH the clamp should be facing the opposite side (in ESB an TFA it's on the right)
can the clamp of the 2.0 kit be turned on the other side or is it fixed?
(http://)
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Anyone know how I can get some spare red buttons for this build? Preferably with the tactile switches?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Graflex-Red-Button-Replica-Thumbscrew-P68.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Graflex-Red-Button-Replica-Thumbscrew-P68.aspx)
not sure if this is what you were looking for but i think this might solve you problem
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Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
I noticed that most of the user who assembled the ANH version placed the clamp with the bubblestrip facing the right side of the hilt; in ANH the clamp should be facing the opposite side (in ESB an TFA it's on the right)
can the clamp of the 2.0 kit be turned on the other side or is it fixed?
(http://)
Clamp can be turned around no problem. You just have to remove the little screw and put it back in when you turn the clamp around. I just finished mine up ANH style and have the clamp the correct way. My guess is many don't know the correct way to place the clamp.
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Here is a picture of the assembled hilt- http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;album=28)
I noticed that most of the user who assembled the ANH version placed the clamp with the bubblestrip facing the right side of the hilt; in ANH the clamp should be facing the opposite side (in ESB an TFA it's on the right)
can the clamp of the 2.0 kit be turned on the other side or is it fixed?
(http://)
Clamp can be turned around no problem. You just have to remove the little screw and put it back in when you turn the clamp around. I just finished mine up ANH style and have the clamp the correct way. My guess is many don't know the correct way to place the clamp.
Thanks! I didn't realize there was a screw hole on the otherside to allow for the ANH Screen Version!
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With the Korbanth/Parks 2.0 Graflex kit, you can also make ANH replicas of the Production Photo and the Screen Used Version. The Clamp can be repositioned.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;view=373 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=pictures;u=86913;view=373)
Note: the Top is the Raw Kit, the Middle is the Production Photo Version of ANH and the Bottom is the Screen Used Version of ANH according to Sym-Cha.
Jonathon
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My kit arrives next week and I'm doing the TFA version for display purposes only.
I'm confused now, do I need glue for the red button and switch? I thought this kit didn't requre any glue.
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My kit arrives next week and I'm doing the TFA version for display purposes only.
I'm confused now, do I need glue for the red button and switch? I thought this kit didn't require any glue.
Yep, small dab of CA (super Glue) needed in the red button cavity... you will probably need to put a small circle of plastic/rubber/metal in there too as the hole is too long and doesn't make contact with the button top.
Check this out: http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/diy-graflex-2-0-chassis/ (http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/diy-graflex-2-0-chassis/)
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My kit arrives next week and I'm doing the TFA version for display purposes only.
I'm confused now, do I need glue for the red button and switch? I thought this kit didn't requre any glue.
i to am doing TFA version but with electronics install as well
parks graflex 2.0 kits are intended to have electronics installed to the red button dosent stay of there are no wires holding it in plave that the only part that needs help staying on as far as the out side of the saber if your not doing electronics then youll need the glue to hold the switch
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(https://s1027.photobucket.com/user/Kennett6/media/20160117_184032_9Dy7.jog.HTML) :grin: build is coming along great
theres supposed to be a photo there but I'm not sure why is not showing :embarrassed:
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http://(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1027.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy338%2Fkennytc6%2F20160117_184032_zpsqbjx9dy7.jpg&hash=bea8cb04be6bfe5e5bfc9f8652bfc8a025a285ab)
hopefully this works
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Are there any good assembly videos that you guys know of? I'm awaiting my first 2.0 and plan to assemble empty as a display at least at first. Haven't been able to find any videos showing the process.