Nano v4 LS question.

[GreaSyde]

I am having issues with current draw. I saw​ that in the manual you recommend using a electrolytic capacitor. I was wondering if you could direct me to the part you used. When I wired one up to the strip I couldn't get the blade to light up.

I used an NTE 330µF 16v. It was the polarized high temp one.

[erv]

that's what I've used. I've played with various ones, but I've taken some in the high-temp drawer (the ones I use for repairing computer screens and TVs).
Your battery is probably not capable of providing enough current.

or maybe you wired the capacitor to the data line ?

[jbkuma]

My initial thought is also that your battery can't deliver the current, this will likely be the most common issue with pixel blades.  You need a high quality battery.  If you are in the US I recommend Orbronic's 3500mah protected cell.  I've been using it with pixel blades for a year without issue.  Great life and performance.

On the other hand, like Erv said if you put the cap on the signal line it won't work.  Make sure you have it wired up correctly, not all strips are the same.  You'll also want to make sure you are wiring on the Data in/DI side not the Data out/DO side.

[GreaSyde]

Of course I didn't wire it to the data line. But, I did try it on both sides of the power lines with no results.

I'll try the recommended batteries. Hopefully that will solve the issue.

I can get the strip to light without the cap, but at around the halfway point both strips have severe color separation and the speaker output gets too distorted.

[jbkuma]

I can get the strip to light without the cap, but at around the halfway point both strips have severe color separation and the speaker output gets too distorted.

This is a clear symptom of a battery that can't output the appropriate current.

[GreaSyde]

New battery and still the same result. While the new battery does make a difference, I am still having color separation on the mixed colors. I'm only running one strip at 116 LEDs.

Could someone please post a picture of your capacitor setup? I can't seem to get my strip to light up with the cap, only without. I've tried putting it on both POS and NEG sides of the input side.

[erv]

what resistor do you use and where is it placed ?

do you have the strip neg returning to the driver (onboard PEx) or to the main neg ?

as usual, without pictures, it's hard to help

[GreaSyde]

I'll take some tonight, Erv.

470ohm on the board with less than 6" of wire to the strip on data. Both Neg on PeX, not board neg.

Should I be running the cap in series or parallel?

Should the cap be polarized or not? If polarized, what is the proper orientation?

what resistor do you use and where is it placed ?

do you have the strip neg returning to the driver (onboard PEx) or to the main neg ?

as usual, without pictures, it's hard to help

[erv]

move the resistor to the strip input
capacitor is in parallel with the strip power supply. Electro-chemical capacitor (polarized).

[GreaSyde]

Okay now the caps are soldered in parallel to both boards POS and NEG leads, nano clicks instead of booting up. If I remove the strip it boots fine. If I add the other strips without the caps it will ignite but still having the same distorted sound and color separation.

What am I doing wrong? Are my drive settings too high. Do I need to adjust them lower? My batteries are brand new orbitronic 3500mah protected, and fully charged.

Can someone just post a picture of how they added the caps? Or a diagram? I would really appreciate it.

[erv]

the cap should go only next to the strip. If the board refuses to boot (power cuts before it can boot) your battery or its PCB is preventing current to be fed to the board / strip / cap. That is the sign of either a weak battery or a PCB that cuts too low (or defective). My ultrafire cells do the same.

I'm using batteries from Elegant Weapons (rated for 2900 mAh and they have at least 10A discharge rate)

[bumfluffy]

the cap should go only next to the strip. If the board refuses to boot (power cuts before it can boot) your battery or its PCB is preventing current to be fed to the board / strip / cap. That is the sign of either a weak battery or a PCB that cuts too low (or defective). My ultrafire cells do the same.

I'm using batteries from Elegant Weapons (rated for 2900 mAh and they have at least 10A discharge rate)

Sorry Erv, I'm being thick. When you say 'next to the strip' can you be more specific please? :)

[erv]

on the power supply pads of the strip

[SolaRax]

on the power supply pads of the strip

are you using one per strip ?
I had done a little research so I powered the board  with and orbTronic  high drain 10 A and I only fired up one of my strips because I didn't have very much time at home.  so I haven't run into the problem with the original poster is asking about
 do you think you will be able to put a diagram in to the manual because reading this thread only confused me more