Unlimited Powaaahhhhhh. Strike me down with all your brightness and your journey to the bright side will be complete. Great idea with the dye thing. The best dyes I have seen light up green with UV light but that is not a good spectrum for the eyes. It would be interesting to see what wave length lights up the orange blade as that is a tough color to get bright. I have made a few Luminus SSR 90 sabers and I find it interesting how inefficient those 30 amp leds appear as they are not rated much higher than the SSR 90 at 6 amps. I have had some trouble taming the heat from my SSR 90s. DUDE! How hot do those things get in 5 min??? :o :o :o
You can see an example of what I have done with green and blue SSR 90s by searching for "Praxis" and "Green SSR90"
Great to hear from you! I was a fan of your Praxis saber and your green SSR-90 sabers prior to building my first sabers. Reading about your SSR-90 sabers and seeing them in your videos are one of the major things that inspired me to want to build my 30 amp single LED hilts.
The 30 Amp blue CBT-120 LED is actually about twice as efficient as the green SSR-90 and the green CREE XP-E2 in the percentage of electrical input power converted into raw optical output power. The problem is that the eye is over ten times less sensitive in the deep blue than in the green, hence the low output lumen rating for the blue CBT-120 30 amp LED.
The fluorescein (day glow green) dyed blade fixes this problem by converting the blue photons into green photons, transforming the 600 lumens of blue LED light into 5,000 lumens of green blade light. This is twice the brightness one would get compared to the normal way of making a green blade by using a green LED driven at the same current and a conventional blade.
The fluorescence excitation band of fluorescein dye is extremely broad extending continuously from cyan to the UV. This makes sunlight work for us big time when using the saber outdoors by adding a lot of green solar fluoresced blade brightness on top of the shimmering green fluorescence produced by the pulsed blue LED light.
Yes, the saber hilts get very hot after a few minutes of being continuously on. During a Makerspace open house in which there was a constant stream of visitors, I ended up having to hand out leather gloves to the people who wanted to play with the 30 amp sabers. The electronics could take it, but the sabers got too hot for people to hold on to with their bare hands. I swapped the batteries out frequently both to maintain full blade brightness, and because I was afraid of what would happen if I overheated a lithium 18650 battery.