No problem.
Something you might consider (which I actually use for my Flange III Lightside saber) is also using the additional pad for FoC. In other words, for example:
RB = purple (~7.2v @1A, although it could also be wired for ~3.7v @2A if you are using CFv5.x)
GW = FoC (~7.4v)
This isn't to say that you have to use these color mixtures, but it's only to show that you can essentially avoid bothering with a huge resistor (or even one at all) if you use two dies for the FoC... based on the fact that the voltage is doubled from your previous setup of only a single die (~3.7v), and so, since the voltage now matches a Li-Ion ~7.2v solution so closely... you don't really need to resist much, if at all.
Additionally, as you'll see in the video above, you COULD allow yourself the option to "swap connectors" so that you could easily alter the color of the saber (and FoC). Kind of hard to explain in words, but--the video tells the story.
The only way this works, however... is if the voltage requirements are (essentially) matched up. In my case, we have:
RGBAGB = "Line 1"... or the Main Blade, I guess, in the beginning at least
RA = "Line 2"... or the FoC, I guess, in the beginning at least
So, they can be swapped (not HOT-swapped... but... swapped).
This is NOT a CFv5.x, so it cannot output 2A... so... for anyone thinking "why didn't you wire it for ~3.7v @2A"... that's why. :)
I'll have to try an RGB
W sometime... but for now... I
really want to see "RRRW" or something, heheh!