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Author Topic: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board  (Read 91573 times)

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Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #315 on: June 09, 2017, 10:14:58 AM »
Will I still be able to use the charger and charge blade to charge the battery even though the teensy doesn't power up?

Yes. The teensy only provides some sound and lights, it is not involved with the actual charging.

Offline gmcivor

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #316 on: June 09, 2017, 11:06:18 AM »
Well I charged the battery(mostly). I measured the voltage off the battery and it was 3.92. I measured the output on the power boost it was 5.29V. I remeasured the 5V and GND on the prop shield and it was 1.49V. So it is not the battery so I guess the GND wire from the power boost to the prop shield is broken or frayed. I will check the connection to the prop shield it is under hot glue...

Regards,

GMcIvor

Offline gmcivor

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #317 on: June 09, 2017, 02:04:05 PM »
It was the ground connection. Some how it broke.. At least I know another possible problem if it ever stops working again.

Regards,

GMcIvor

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #318 on: June 09, 2017, 06:47:02 PM »
I spoke too soon.  As soon as I stuff all the electronics inside my hilt the problem returned.  I guess I'll wait for the level shifter chip to arrive and hopefully that resolves this issue.  I'll let you know as soon as I have an update.

Well I'm frustrated now...

The level shifter chips (I bought 2 just in case) came in today so I went to work connecting one up.  Here's what I connected where (as you recommended)...

1 -> GND  (gnd from the booster)
7 -> GND  (gnd from the booster)
14 -> Vin (5v from the booster)
2 -> teensy pin 20
3 -> neopixel data

I tried it through a breadboard first using jumpers I soldered to my saber wiring.  I cut both the +5V and GND leads leading from the LiPower Booster to the Prop Shield 5V and GND connections and spliced the jumper wires into each.  The GND jumper was then connected to pins 1 & 7 on the level shifter chip.  The 5V line was connected to pin 14 on the Level Shifter.  I was very careful to verify the orientation of the chip based on the notch and verified the pins based on the data sheet I downloaded from Adafruit.  I then cut into the lead that goes from pin 20 of the Teensy to the blade LED DataIn and connected the side from pin 20 on the Teensy to pin 2 on the level shifter chip and the side that goes to the LED DataIn to pin 3 on the level shifter.  At this point I gave it a try and the blade didn't light at all.  The Teensy powered up and played my boot sound.  When I attempted to light the blade it would play one of my poweron sounds and then the hum sound.  I checked VDC using my multimeter between pin 1 & 2 on the level shifter and saw 3.3V.  I check between pins 1 & 3 and saw 5V so the level shifter appears to be working.  I then powered off and connected the 2nd level shifter chip just to be sure I didn't have a bad one (which also gave the same result).  After this I decided to check that everything was still working the original way so I disconnecting the 5V and GND connections and resoldered the Teensy pin 20 data line back to the blade LED DataIn pin.  Everything worked again but I was back to the original flickering issue (as you would expect).

At this point I thought maybe the connections on the breadboard were not solid enough for this application so I took the time to solder one of the level shifter chips to the wires I had spliced again being very very careful to verify everything before applying power.  Again the Teensy powered on, played the appropriate sounds but the blade did not light at all.  Just to be sure at this point I powered down and connected the blade to my Arduino Uno LED test setup and the blade LED test pattern worked flawlessly.

Frustrated I decided to put everything back the way it was.  I disconnected the spliced in wires and reconnected the Teensy pin 20 line to the blade connector.  Unfortunately now I get the same symptom.  The Teensy boots and plays the appropriate sounds but the blade does not light.  I have spent quite some time now verifying connections and can't get it working again.

Another symptom I am also seeing now is that when I have the Teensy connected to my computer via USB I can't seem to get commands to work through the Serial Monitor.  It displays the boot up output, button actions and periodic battery voltage but does not respond to any commands.  I have the "Newline" option on and have retried this several times and even rebooted my computer.

Any idea what could be wrong?  Could I have damaged the Teensy or Prop Shield somehow?  Obviously the power connections from the battery to the LiPower Booster are good because I am getting power to the Teensy.  The Prop Shield is producing audio.  The button pins for "pow" and "aux" are both working.  The USB "emulated serial" (it's been running in "emulated serial" mode at 115200 baud ever since I used the teensytransfer tool to load my sound font to the Serial Flash on the Prop Shield) is working because the Serial Monitor is displaying the output from the Teensy.

I'm lost and frustrated.  Help!

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #319 on: June 09, 2017, 10:57:53 PM »
I spoke too soon.  As soon as I stuff all the electronics inside my hilt the problem returned.  I guess I'll wait for the level shifter chip to arrive and hopefully that resolves this issue.  I'll let you know as soon as I have an update.

Well I'm frustrated now...

The level shifter chips (I bought 2 just in case) came in today so I went to work connecting one up.  Here's what I connected where (as you recommended)...

1 -> GND  (gnd from the booster)
7 -> GND  (gnd from the booster)
14 -> Vin (5v from the booster)
2 -> teensy pin 20
3 -> neopixel data

I tried it through a breadboard first using jumpers I soldered to my saber wiring.  I cut both the +5V and GND leads leading from the LiPower Booster to the Prop Shield 5V and GND connections and spliced the jumper wires into each.  The GND jumper was then connected to pins 1 & 7 on the level shifter chip.  The 5V line was connected to pin 14 on the Level Shifter.  I was very careful to verify the orientation of the chip based on the notch and verified the pins based on the data sheet I downloaded from Adafruit.  I then cut into the lead that goes from pin 20 of the Teensy to the blade LED DataIn and connected the side from pin 20 on the Teensy to pin 2 on the level shifter chip and the side that goes to the LED DataIn to pin 3 on the level shifter.  At this point I gave it a try and the blade didn't light at all.  The Teensy powered up and played my boot sound.  When I attempted to light the blade it would play one of my poweron sounds and then the hum sound.  I checked VDC using my multimeter between pin 1 & 2 on the level shifter and saw 3.3V.  I check between pins 1 & 3 and saw 5V so the level shifter appears to be working.  I then powered off and connected the 2nd level shifter chip just to be sure I didn't have a bad one (which also gave the same result).  After this I decided to check that everything was still working the original way so I disconnecting the 5V and GND connections and resoldered the Teensy pin 20 data line back to the blade LED DataIn pin.  Everything worked again but I was back to the original flickering issue (as you would expect).

At this point I thought maybe the connections on the breadboard were not solid enough for this application so I took the time to solder one of the level shifter chips to the wires I had spliced again being very very careful to verify everything before applying power.  Again the Teensy powered on, played the appropriate sounds but the blade did not light at all.  Just to be sure at this point I powered down and connected the blade to my Arduino Uno LED test setup and the blade LED test pattern worked flawlessly.

Frustrated I decided to put everything back the way it was.  I disconnected the spliced in wires and reconnected the Teensy pin 20 line to the blade connector.  Unfortunately now I get the same symptom.  The Teensy boots and plays the appropriate sounds but the blade does not light.  I have spent quite some time now verifying connections and can't get it working again.

Another symptom I am also seeing now is that when I have the Teensy connected to my computer via USB I can't seem to get commands to work through the Serial Monitor.  It displays the boot up output, button actions and periodic battery voltage but does not respond to any commands.  I have the "Newline" option on and have retried this several times and even rebooted my computer.

Any idea what could be wrong?  Could I have damaged the Teensy or Prop Shield somehow?  Obviously the power connections from the battery to the LiPower Booster are good because I am getting power to the Teensy.  The Prop Shield is producing audio.  The button pins for "pow" and "aux" are both working.  The USB "emulated serial" (it's been running in "emulated serial" mode at 115200 baud ever since I used the teensytransfer tool to load my sound font to the Serial Flash on the Prop Shield) is working because the Serial Monitor is displaying the output from the Teensy.

I'm lost and frustrated.  Help!

Wow, I really wish I could just magically fix it for you, and I can feel your frustration from here!
From what I can tell, it seems like you're doing everything right, although pictures is always helpful to verify these things.

First of all: I don't think you've damaged anything. The way USB works, it's not possible to receive data without also being able to transmit data, so if it works one way but not the other, that almost have to be a software issue of some sort. Did you try switching "newline" to something else and then back?

Next step: Try hooking up the the arduino uno again and make sure the strip works. Then have it go through the level shifter to make sure you have that part figured out.

Oh, and before I forget: you did cut the vusb-vin bridge on the teensy, right?

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #320 on: June 10, 2017, 11:08:20 AM »
Wow, I really wish I could just magically fix it for you, and I can feel your frustration from here!
From what I can tell, it seems like you're doing everything right, although pictures is always helpful to verify these things.

First of all: I don't think you've damaged anything. The way USB works, it's not possible to receive data without also being able to transmit data, so if it works one way but not the other, that almost have to be a software issue of some sort. Did you try switching "newline" to something else and then back?

Next step: Try hooking up the the arduino uno again and make sure the strip works. Then have it go through the level shifter to make sure you have that part figured out.

Oh, and before I forget: you did cut the vusb-vin bridge on the teensy, right?

Sorry I vented my frustrations a little in my last post.  I've spent quite a bit of time debugging this since then.  All I'm trying to do now is return the saber to it's previous condition... working but having the LED flicker issue.  I've replaced and re-soldered all the wires I messed with when trying the level shifter. This include the +5V and GND wires from the LiPower Booster to the Prop Shield +5V and GND.  It also included the signal wire from Teensy pin 20 to the blade connector pin 3 (which connects to the LED strip DataIn).  At this point the saber turns on, plays all the sounds and responds to all the button presses but does not light the LED blade at all.  Also, the Serial Monitor is now working but I can't explain why I couldn't get it to work yesterday.  Here's what is displayed when I boot the Teensy...

ID: 1 volts 0.00 resistance= 32.26
blade= 0
WS2811 Blade with 144 leds
Scanning sound font:  done
Activating monophonic font.
unit = 0 vol = 0.50, Playing boot.wav
channels: 1 rate: 22050 bits: 16
Welcome to TeensySaber, type 'help' for more info.
I2C pullups found, initializing...
Gyro setup ...  Done
Accel setup ...  Done
Battery voltage: 4.25
Battery voltage: 4.25

I went on to re-soldered my connections from Teensy pins 21, 22 & 23 to the Gate pins of the 3 N-Channel MOSFETs because I didn't like how one of the wires felt/looked after all the moving around and bending.  From here I've taken some voltage readings in an attempt to find my issue.  Here's my results...

1) Voltage between GND on the Teensy and pins 21, 22 and 23 read 3.3V when the blabe is turned on (hum sound plays and Serial Monitor shows the blade being turned on).  These pins drop to 0V when the blade is turned off.
2) Following this up to the MOSFETs the Gate on each of the MOSFETs reads 3.3v when the blade is on and 0V when off.
3) The Source and Drain pins on each MOSFET read 4.19V (source LiPo battery voltage which reads 4.21V when read directly and not attached to the saber) when the blade is turned on and the Teensy raises 3.3V on the Gate pins.  Also, please note that the TeensySaber sketch is returning 4.25V which is very close and would indicate that the connection to +5V through the pullup resistor is good.
4) Following this up to the blade connector the voltage readings between the pin 7 & 8 (+ from battery) and any of the three lines from the MOSFETs (pins 4,5 & 6 on the connector) read 4.19V when the blade is turned on and 0V when off.

Based on these results I know the MOSFET part of the circuit is working and the Teensy is turning on and off power to the blade.

At this point I retested the LED blade through my Arduino UNO test rig and everything works (btw... the test rig has just three connections, the Arduino 3.3V pin connects to the center pin [8] of the aviation connector, the Arduino GND pin connects to pin 4 and Arduino pin 6 connects to pin 3 on the aviation connector).  The test project simply uses the Adafruit_NeoPixel library to light and turn off each LED all the way up the blade changing the colors through some of the basic colors repeatedly.  This lets me see that every LED on both strips are working properly plus it verifies at least pin 3, 4 and 8 on my blade connector.  I really doubt anything happened to the assembled blade and any of the connections there.

At this point I would guess something is wrong with the data signal coming from the Teensy to tell the blades to light.  Do you have any further ideas?  Any other multimeter readings I can do to test the circuit further?

Thanks again for your help and support.  Also... to answer your question... Yes, I cut the VUSB-VIN bridge on the Teensy.

Here are some photos of my electronics as they stand now.  Please not that all the exposed connections were originally covered in shrink tube or electrical tape before all this debugging.















Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #321 on: June 10, 2017, 11:35:11 AM »
Sorry I vented my frustrations a little in my last post.

Don't worry about it, venting is all good... :)

First of all: Let me say that it sounds like you're doing everything right. The connections look good, the debugging is great, even though it hasn't uncovered the problem yet.

Quote
ID: 1 volts 0.00 resistance= 32.26

This part is a little weird to me. It says that there is a 32ohm (or less) connection between GND and pin 20.
Let me clarify that: When the teensy performs tries to figure out the blade ID resistance, it puts pin 20 in
INPUT_PULLUP mode, which basically connects an internal 33kOhm pullup to pin 20. In spite of that, AnalogRead
returns 1 (on a scale from 0 = zero volts and 1023 = 3.3 volts.)

Basically, this indicates a short between pin 20 and ground.

If this turns out to not be the problem, the next step is probably to look for an arduino sketch that lets you use the arduino kind of like a digital analyzer or oscilloscope. Then you can plug in pin 20 on the teensy into the arduino and actually look at the output signal and see what it looks like.  (Unless you have an actual oscilloscope or digital analyzer, in which case ignore what I say and just use that...)



Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #322 on: June 10, 2017, 12:12:35 PM »
At this point I would guess something is wrong with the data signal coming from the Teensy to tell the blades to light.  Do you have any further ideas?  Any other multimeter readings I can do to test the circuit further?

One other piece of information.  When the Teensy is booted but the blade is off pin 20 on the Teensy reads 3.335V.  When I turn the blade on the voltage drops to 3.146V.  Is this normal?  If not is it an indication of a problem and what the issue might be?  Also, through the Serial Monitor I can turn off the hum sound (amp off) leaving the blade on and the voltage doesn't change so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the sound from the Prop Shield.

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #323 on: June 10, 2017, 12:18:35 PM »
At this point I would guess something is wrong with the data signal coming from the Teensy to tell the blades to light.  Do you have any further ideas?  Any other multimeter readings I can do to test the circuit further?

One other piece of information.  When the Teensy is booted but the blade is off pin 20 on the Teensy reads 3.335V.  When I turn the blade on the voltage drops to 3.146V.  Is this normal?  If not is it an indication of a problem and what the issue might be?  Also, through the Serial Monitor I can turn off the hum sound (amp off) leaving the blade on and the voltage doesn't change so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the sound from the Prop Shield.

I don't think that's abnormal, when the blade is powered on it will cause some changes in the pin 20 voltage. (Which sometimes causes problem for the blade ID procedure..)

If nothing else, the blade id resistor will pull the voltage down slightly.


Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #324 on: June 10, 2017, 12:25:06 PM »
This part is a little weird to me. It says that there is a 32ohm (or less) connection between GND and pin 20.
Let me clarify that: When the teensy performs tries to figure out the blade ID resistance, it puts pin 20 in
INPUT_PULLUP mode, which basically connects an internal 33kOhm pullup to pin 20. In spite of that, AnalogRead
returns 1 (on a scale from 0 = zero volts and 1023 = 3.3 volts.)

Basically, this indicates a short between pin 20 and ground.

I had been looking at this and questioning it myself.  I hadn't found the code where you calculate this yet but I sort of thought it should be showing the resistance value of my blade ID resistor (which is 10K).  The 32.26 Ohm value seemd to not make sense at all.

One more question... could the blade ID resister connected between pin 3 on the aviation connector (pin 20 signal from the Teensy) and pin 1 & 2 of the aviation connector (which are connected in line with the negative side of the battery) be part of the issue?  I don't intend to have multiple blades and my blade array only has one blade defined so could I simply remove this connection?  I already have a kill plug on the negative leg of the battery anyway so I don't really need the blade to complete this part of the circuit.  Let me know your thoughts.


Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #325 on: June 10, 2017, 12:48:23 PM »
One more question... could the blade ID resister connected between pin 3 on the aviation connector (pin 20 signal from the Teensy) and pin 1 & 2 of the aviation connector (which are connected in line with the negative side of the battery) be part of the issue?  I don't intend to have multiple blades and my blade array only has one blade defined so could I simply remove this connection?  I already have a kill plug on the negative leg of the battery anyway so I don't really need the blade to complete this part of the circuit.  Let me know your thoughts.

As a test I did just what I proposed above... I disconnected pin 1 & 2 from the aviation connector and tied them together.  This effectively removed the blade cut-off and the blade ID resistor from the circuit.  The boot up of the Teensy now shows the following...

ID: 0 volts 0.00 resistance= 0.00
blade= 0
WS2811 Blade with 144 leds
Scanning sound font:  done
Activating monophonic font.
unit = 0 vol = 0.50, Playing boot.wav
channels: 1 rate: 22050 bits: 16
Welcome to TeensySaber, type 'help' for more info.
I2C pullups found, initializing...
Gyro setup ...  Done
Accel setup ...  Done

Unfortunately this did not correct the issue.

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #326 on: June 10, 2017, 01:00:39 PM »
I've now completely disconnected the signal wire from pin 20 on the Teensy and have no battery connected to complete the power circuit.  If I test continuity from GND (or AGND) on the Teensy to pin 20 I get 0 ohms resistance (continuity).  This doesn't seem right.  Pins 21, 22 & 23 all read infinite resistance (no continuity).  Does this mean there a short on the Teensy somewhere?

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #327 on: June 10, 2017, 03:48:13 PM »
While I will still continue to debug my original Teensy 3.2 / Prop Shield saber electronics I'm probably going to build a second setup.  I have another Prop Shield and a Teensy 3.6 on hand plus I have all the other parts necessary to put this together.  Plus the build should be easier / quicker because of what I learned on the first build.

I've been reviewing this option and saw that everything on the Prop Shield lines up with the Teensy 3.6 except for the A14/DAC pin.  When I look at the Teensy 3.6 pin configuration I see there are two DAC pins, A21/DAC0 and A22/DAC1.  Should I assume I should hook up A21/DAC0 to AudioIn on the Prop Shield?

Also, could you summarize what changes need to be made (if any) in the sourcecode to utilize the Teensy 3.6?  I know I will have to uncomment "#define ENABLE_SD" to utilize the built in SD card on the Teensy 3.6 (instead of using the Serial Flash like I'm doing now on my Teensy 3.2 set up) and I will need to tailor my soundfonts on a micro SD card.  I saw the comment "// Set to BUILTIN_SDCARD for Teensy 3.5/3.6" on the "sdCardSelectPin = 0" statement.  Does this mean this needs to be changed to "sdCardSelectPin = BUILTIN_SDCARD"?  I didn't find any other comments related to the Teensy 3.6.


Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #328 on: June 10, 2017, 04:14:00 PM »
One more question... could the blade ID resister connected between pin 3 on the aviation connector (pin 20 signal from the Teensy) and pin 1 & 2 of the aviation connector (which are connected in line with the negative side of the battery) be part of the issue?  I don't intend to have multiple blades and my blade array only has one blade defined so could I simply remove this connection?  I already have a kill plug on the negative leg of the battery anyway so I don't really need the blade to complete this part of the circuit.  Let me know your thoughts.

The blade id resistor could indeed be part of the problem.

Quote


As a test I did just what I proposed above... I disconnected pin 1 & 2 from the aviation connector and tied them together.  This effectively removed the blade cut-off and the blade ID resistor from the circuit.  The boot up of the Teensy now shows the following...

ID: 0 volts 0.00 resistance= 0.00
blade= 0
WS2811 Blade with 144 leds
Scanning sound font:  done
Activating monophonic font.
unit = 0 vol = 0.50, Playing boot.wav
channels: 1 rate: 22050 bits: 16
Welcome to TeensySaber, type 'help' for more info.
I2C pullups found, initializing...
Gyro setup ...  Done
Accel setup ...  Done

Unfortunately this did not correct the issue.


If you remove the blade ID resistor, don't tie the remaining leads together, that creates the short we're trying to avoid.

Quote
I've now completely disconnected the signal wire from pin 20 on the Teensy and have no battery connected to complete the power circuit.  If I test continuity from GND (or AGND) on the Teensy to pin 20 I get 0 ohms resistance (continuity).  This doesn't seem right.  Pins 21, 22 & 23 all read infinite resistance (no continuity).  Does this mean there a short on the Teensy somewhere?

That seems bad. Unless you have solder globs on the teensy, that kind of seems like the teensy is fried.

While I will still continue to debug my original Teensy 3.2 / Prop Shield saber electronics I'm probably going to build a second setup.  I have another Prop Shield and a Teensy 3.6 on hand plus I have all the other parts necessary to put this together.  Plus the build should be easier / quicker because of what I learned on the first build.

I've been reviewing this option and saw that everything on the Prop Shield lines up with the Teensy 3.6 except for the A14/DAC pin.  When I look at the Teensy 3.6 pin configuration I see there are two DAC pins, A21/DAC0 and A22/DAC1.  Should I assume I should hook up A21/DAC0 to AudioIn on the Prop Shield?

If you hook it up to A21/DAC0, you don't need to make any changes to the code.
However, A22/DAC1 is a little closer, and all you have to do is to replace all references to DAC0 with DAC1 in the code to make it work.
(I should probably make an option for this.)
Just beware that the teensy 3.6 is *not* 5v tolerant, so keep the 5v stuff away from all the digital input/outputs.

Quote
Also, could you summarize what changes need to be made (if any) in the sourcecode to utilize the Teensy 3.6?  I know I will have to uncomment "#define ENABLE_SD" to utilize the built in SD card on the Teensy 3.6 (instead of using the Serial Flash like I'm doing now on my Teensy 3.2 set up) and I will need to tailor my soundfonts on a micro SD card.  I saw the comment "// Set to BUILTIN_SDCARD for Teensy 3.5/3.6" on the "sdCardSelectPin = 0" statement.  Does this mean this needs to be changed to "sdCardSelectPin = BUILTIN_SDCARD"?  I didn't find any other comments related to the Teensy 3.6.

That should be all you need to do. (Except maybe for the DAC thing above.)





Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #329 on: June 10, 2017, 06:44:47 PM »
If you remove the blade ID resistor, don't tie the remaining leads together, that creates the short we're trying to avoid.

Let me clarify.  Here's what I'm talking about in a modified version of your circuit diagram...


As you can see all I did was complete the circuit from the negative side of the battery to the LiPower input negative connection.

Thanks again for all the help and support.  I'll be working on rebuild this with the Teensy 3.6 I have and hopefully I can get everything working fairly quickly.

 

retrousse