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Author Topic: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board  (Read 91571 times)

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Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #270 on: May 28, 2017, 10:31:15 PM »
Profezzorn,
So I've gotten to the point where I have my Teensy Saber electronics working (sort of).  There are two issues I can't seem to figure out. 

The first is that the "aux2" button doesn't seem to trigger.  It's not a wiring issue either because I've jump'ed the Teensy pins to GND and both other buttons ("pow" [pin 16] and "aux" [pin 15]) function but the "aux2" button (pin 17) doesn't seem to do anything (it doesn't show being triggered in the serial monitor either). I'm assuming that this is preventing me from selecting the next preset.  I can however use the "next pre" command in the serial monitor and step through all my presets.  I did change the touch button to a normal button using the change I found in an earlier post (see below).

  // CONFIGURABLE, use "monitor touch" to see the range of
  // values from the touch sensor, then select a value that is
  // big enough to not trigger the touch sensor randomly.
            // power_(powerButtonPin, 1700, "pow"),
            power_(powerButtonPin, "pow"),
            aux_(auxPin, "aux"),
            aux2_(aux2Pin, "aux2") {}

Any ideas what is wrong?  Am I expecting the buttons to function correctly?  If not, how should I step through the presets?

I don't have any functions assigned to the aux2 button. It probably works well, but doesn't do anything.
What would you like it to do?

Quote

My second issue is most likely a blade array configuration issue.  My blade is a pair of 144 LED WS2811 compatible RGB strips.  I've tested them all individually using a test rig I built using an Arduino Uno and every LED lights and changes colors correctly.  I've configured my BladeConfig as follows...

BladeConfig blades[] = {
#ifdef ENABLE_WS2811
  {   10000, WS2811BladePtr<144, WS2811_800kHz | WS2811_GRB>(), CONFIGARRAY(my_presets) },
#endif
};

I've configured "my_presets" as follows...

Preset my_presets[] = {
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<GREEN, WHITE, 300, 800>() },
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<BLUE, WHITE, 300, 800>() },
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<CYAN, WHITE, 300, 800>() },
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<RED, YELLOW, 300, 800>() },
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<MAGENTA, WHITE, 300, 800>() },
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<YELLOW, RED, 300, 800>() },
  { "", "", StyleNormalPtr<WHITE, RED, 300, 800>() },
};

So here's my issue...  I am getting a sparkling rainbow of colors when the blade animates on and off.  The sparkling rainbow appears in the portion of the blade that shouldn't be lit.  Any idea what could be wrong and how to correct it?

You should also note that I'm using the SerialFlash on the Prop Shield to store my single Soundfont (I do not have the SD Adapter connected and instead connected MISO, MOSI and SCK through to the Teensy 3.2 so I could access the SerialFlash).  This is why I left the directory/folder name blank in all my presets.  I also don't have any music tracks loaded... just the following in the root folder of the SerialFlash...

\teensytransfer>teensytransfer -l
   47404 clash1.wav
   49580 clash2.wav
   56492 clash3.wav
   37676 clash4.wav
   78636 clash5.wav
   30508 clash6.wav
   23980 clash7.wav
   25644 clash8.wav
   28076 poweroff1.wav
   75820 poweron1.wav
   28332 swing1.wav
   43436 swing2.wav
   89516 swing3.wav
   23980 swing4.wav
   25644 swing5.wav
   54316 swing6.wav
   23852 swing7.wav
   22444 swing8.wav
   89134 hum1.wav

All of these sound effects work without issue.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I really should fix it so that MTP works on serialflash so you don't have to use teensytransfer...

Anyways, the blade issue can be difficult, and could be caused by a number of different here is a checklist:

  • It could be a timing issue, try WS2811_580kHz or WS2811_400kHz
  • Timing issue #2, teensysaber actually uses 740kHz instead of 800kHz, it's possible the strip doesn't like that. (Try search and replace 740000 with 800000 in the code.)
  • What kind of strip is it? Does it have a datasheet we can look at to determine the timing? Maybe what you need is WS2813_8000kHz?
  • Do you have a 30-100 ohm resistor between pin 20 on the teensy and data-in on the LED strip?
  • If the rainbow effect usually starts at a particular spot, you may have a bad led or cracked solder joint in the strip itself.
  • Voltage issues / weak battery, if the voltage drops too much, it can cause communication failures in the strip. Try measuring the voltage at the end of the strip.
  • Noise, cross-talk and noisy power to the teensy can also cause issues. Try putting a large capacitor between + and - and see if that helps.
  • It's possible that the strips don't like being back-to-back. Did you try it with the arduino after gluing them together?

It's weird that it only (primarily) affects the dark area of the blade, or is it perhaps just easier to see there?
If none of the easy thing works, testing it with the arduino again is probably a good idea, and then change one thing
at a time until we can get it working.





Offline bobi-one

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #271 on: May 29, 2017, 12:12:34 AM »
Btw a small warning/ I managed to kill the amp of one of my teensysabers just by shorting the speaker. It is a delicate little thingie :).

I tested the board for battles and stumbled upon trickie situation, the sd card wobbles from its socket, and stops responding. Maybe re-init routine should be considered.



btw - reversing the direction of fireblade when turned off ( the old way looked really strange -  as the saber is fueled by burning gasoline :D)

        if (blade->is_on()) {
      blade->set(i, c);
    }
        else {
          blade->set(num_leds - 1 - i, c);
        }
      }







Offline Sethski

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #272 on: May 29, 2017, 01:29:21 AM »
I have a couple of questions and suggestions.

Questions re current functions/effects:

Does the board currently have a configurable flicker function for the blade? I'd assumed so as a 'standard' function in boards that have been around for a bit, but couldn't find anything to indicate this skimming back through threads and your site. It'd be great to add this if not currently implemented.

I read a 'lockup' effect is something you're considering implementing, and maybe soemthing like the 'tip drag' effect that Hyperdydne showes in his demo of board in development - which would be great. Does the standard setup with the board currently use a second auxilliary switch to trigger effects and navigate options?It'd also be great to have a localised 'blaster bolt deflect' with a tap and release of an aux button and a lockup effect with the aux button held. (Plecter Prizm v5 and NEC Igniter 2 seem to have implemented a nice blaster bolt deflect for neopixels, but not lockup effects that take full advantage of neopixel and similar strips yet).

I've been giving thought to the possibilities that addressable LEDs offer for lockup type effects and how one might configure the actions to control these in a straightforward way.

I guess there are three possible lockup effects that come to mind:

1) A lockup effect with colour change/flashes and flash/shimmer/flicker along the whole blade, similar to what's familiar from in-hilt LEDs.
2) Localised lockup where a central section of the blade displays the effect, fading out somewhat towards top and bottom of the blade.
3) Localised blade tip effect for draging the blade along a surface or stabbing a surface.

I guess it could be configured whether the effect was local or along the whole.

For localised effects, perhaps aux button held down for the mid blade, saber-on-saber type lockup and twist of hilt + aux for the tip effect?

Another idea that would be pleasing would be to be able to control (2) and (3) with a further twist of the hilt while the ux button is being held - a reasonably sharp twist clockwise to start the area of effect moving up the blade or anti-clockwise to start moving it down the blade, with a twist in the opposite direction to stop the effect moving (e.g. if the contact point between two locked blades moves, or the effect slowly moving down from the tip of the saber as it gradually pushes through something?). I guess this would be fed by info from the change in the gyro values of the motion detector within certain bounds. Maybe also possible/pleasing effect to correlate how hard the hilt's twisted with the speed the effect moves?)

Anyway, thought I'd share in case interesting to yourself or other folks. I'll be looking at what I can contribute myself when I have my Teensysaber 2 board wired up and working with the rest of electronics, but I no prior experience of coding, so it may take a bit of time to get a ahndle on this ;-)

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #273 on: May 29, 2017, 11:24:53 AM »
Btw a small warning/ I managed to kill the amp of one of my teensysabers just by shorting the speaker. It is a delicate little thingie :).

I have done that too. Supposedly the amp does have short-circuit protection, but obviously it doesn't
work very well. I'm experimenting with a different chip, maybe it will work better. I've only burned
one amp in the last year though, and I'm pretty sure I've shorted them more often then that, so I don't
think shorting the amp means instant death.

Hot-air rework stations are pretty cheap nowadays though if you wan to replace the amp.

Quote
I tested the board for battles and stumbled upon trickie situation, the sd card wobbles from its socket, and stops responding. Maybe re-init routine should be considered.

Interesting, I don't think that has happened to me, but I haven't tried serious battle with it either.
re-initing would be nice, but may not be simple as several of the SD functions simply don't return if
things go wrong.

I wonder if there is an easy way to secure the SD card so it doesn't wobble?

Quote
btw - reversing the direction of fireblade when turned off ( the old way looked really strange -  as the saber is fueled by burning gasoline :D)

        if (blade->is_on()) {
      blade->set(i, c);
    }
        else {
          blade->set(num_leds - 1 - i, c);
        }
      }

I can make that a template argument so that people can choose the direction they want.
Sucking in the flames seems weird to me... :)

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #274 on: May 29, 2017, 11:42:50 AM »
I have a couple of questions and suggestions.

Questions re current functions/effects:

Does the board currently have a configurable flicker function for the blade? I'd assumed so as a 'standard' function in boards that have been around for a bit, but couldn't find anything to indicate this skimming back through threads and your site. It'd be great to add this if not currently implemented.

No, but it should be easy to implement.
How do you want it to work?
I don't have any other boards myself, so I don't know what is standard and how they work. :)
I imagine that popular choices would be sound-based flickering and random flickering?

Quote
I read a 'lockup' effect is something you're considering implementing, and maybe soemthing like the 'tip drag' effect that Hyperdydne showes in his demo of board in development - which would be great. Does the standard setup with the board currently use a second auxilliary switch to trigger effects and navigate options?

No.
I don't have a saber with three buttons yet, so I haven't assigned any functions to aux2.
Also, I've actually tried to stay away from using configuration menues on the saber itself, as I think that seems really difficult to implement *well*. Instead everything is currently done through the "presets" array. Holding aux while tapping power goes to the next preset, holding power and tapping the blade goes to the previous preset. The presets are managed in the source itself.

Quote
It'd also be great to have a localised 'blaster bolt deflect' with a tap and release of an aux button and a lockup effect with the aux button held. (Plecter Prizm v5 and NEC Igniter 2 seem to have implemented a nice blaster bolt deflect for neopixels, but not lockup effects that take full advantage of neopixel and similar strips yet).

Right now, blaster and lockup are only partially implemented, they do the sound, but do not have blade effects.
This will be fixed, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Quote
I've been giving thought to the possibilities that addressable LEDs offer for lockup type effects and how one might configure the actions to control these in a straightforward way.

I guess there are three possible lockup effects that come to mind:

1) A lockup effect with colour change/flashes and flash/shimmer/flicker along the whole blade, similar to what's familiar from in-hilt LEDs.
2) Localised lockup where a central section of the blade displays the effect, fading out somewhat towards top and bottom of the blade.
3) Localised blade tip effect for draging the blade along a surface or stabbing a surface.

I guess it could be configured whether the effect was local or along the whole.

For localised effects, perhaps aux button held down for the mid blade, saber-on-saber type lockup and twist of hilt + aux for the tip effect?

My current plan is this:

Hold aux to activate lockup mode (nothing actually happens)
When a clash occurs, if the blade is pointing mostly up, activate lockup mode and have a flickering effect
in the bottom third of the blade.
If the blade is held downwards when the clash occurs, activate the drag effect where only the last 1-3 LEDs are flickering.
Either mode ends when aux is released.

Quote
Another idea that would be pleasing would be to be able to control (2) and (3) with a further twist of the hilt while the ux button is being held - a reasonably sharp twist clockwise to start the area of effect moving up the blade or anti-clockwise to start moving it down the blade, with a twist in the opposite direction to stop the effect moving (e.g. if the contact point between two locked blades moves, or the effect slowly moving down from the tip of the saber as it gradually pushes through something?). I guess this would be fed by info from the change in the gyro values of the motion detector within certain bounds. Maybe also possible/pleasing effect to correlate how hard the hilt's twisted with the speed the effect moves?)

Using hilt twists to control location is an interesting idea.
I've been thinking of ways to have the regular "clash" effect be localized, and if I can't
decduce it from the actual motion detector, maybe twists could work...
Either way, I will definitely implement *some* of this stuff, and since it's open-source, everybody can
change it any which way they want to if they don't like how I do it... :)

Quote
Anyway, thought I'd share in case interesting to yourself or other folks. I'll be looking at what I can contribute myself when I have my Teensysaber 2 board wired up and working with the rest of electronics, but I no prior experience of coding, so it may take a bit of time to get a ahndle on this ;-)

If you're serious about contributing, you'll need to learn a *little* coding to do it.
There is no better way to learn how to code than to customize something you love though.

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #275 on: May 29, 2017, 03:37:04 PM »
I think this thread is starting to get a little long and unwieldy, so I started a new thread specifically about the teensysaber software.

TeensySaber Software Discussion

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #276 on: May 29, 2017, 03:48:00 PM »
Does the board currently have a configurable flicker function for the blade? I'd assumed so as a 'standard' function in boards that have been around for a bit, but couldn't find anything to indicate this skimming back through threads and your site. It'd be great to add this if not currently implemented.

So I added three different flickering effects to version 1.110:
  • Random but even along the whole blade.
  • Random, selected individually for each pixel.
  • Flickering based on audio (even along the whole blade)

Then I used the audio-flickering effect to implement the lockup effect.
Everything is configurable of course. :)

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #277 on: May 29, 2017, 06:59:11 PM »
I don't have any functions assigned to the aux2 button. It probably works well, but doesn't do anything.
What would you like it to do?

I guess I'm confused.  What button do I use to step through my presets?  I have tried multiple scenarios and can't get this to work.

Quote
It's weird that it only (primarily) affects the dark area of the blade, or is it perhaps just easier to see there?
If none of the easy thing works, testing it with the arduino again is probably a good idea, and then change one thing
at a time until we can get it working.

The sparkling effect is actually present in the blade when it is fully lit and it's just much harder to see.  I will work through testing everything but I'm leaning towards the timing issue because the sparkling effect is always the same and happens in a very uniform and repeating way.

Thanks for the checklist of troubleshooting steps.  I'll let you know how I do.

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #278 on: May 29, 2017, 08:16:01 PM »
So I now understand that you need to press both the "pow" and "aux" button to step through the presets.  Possibly allow "aux2" to do this might be nice (just my opinion).

Quote
Anyways, the blade issue can be difficult, and could be caused by a number of different here is a checklist:

  • It could be a timing issue, try WS2811_580kHz or WS2811_400kHz
  • Timing issue #2, teensysaber actually uses 740kHz instead of 800kHz, it's possible the strip doesn't like that. (Try search and replace 740000 with 800000 in the code.)
  • What kind of strip is it? Does it have a datasheet we can look at to determine the timing? Maybe what you need is WS2813_8000kHz?
  • Do you have a 30-100 ohm resistor between pin 20 on the teensy and data-in on the LED strip?
  • If the rainbow effect usually starts at a particular spot, you may have a bad led or cracked solder joint in the strip itself.
  • Voltage issues / weak battery, if the voltage drops too much, it can cause communication failures in the strip. Try measuring the voltage at the end of the strip.
  • Noise, cross-talk and noisy power to the teensy can also cause issues. Try putting a large capacitor between + and - and see if that helps.
  • It's possible that the strips don't like being back-to-back. Did you try it with the arduino after gluing them together?

So from the list above here's what I've tried so far along with the results...

  • It could be a timing issue, try WS2811_580kHz or WS2811_400kHz - RESULT: Neither of these works at all.  The blade lights full white with no animations when I use either of these profiles.
  • Timing issue #2, teensysaber actually uses 740kHz instead of 800kHz, it's possible the strip doesn't like that. (Try search and replace 740000 with 800000 in the code.) - RESULT: I made this change and it had no effect on my issue.  Everything still worked but still had the rainbow sparkling effect.
  • What kind of strip is it? Does it have a datasheet we can look at to determine the timing? Maybe what you need is WS2813_8000kHz? - RESULT: Unfortunately my LED strips were purchased from AliExpress and they don't seem to have a datasheet available.  I tried WS2813_800kHz and this yielded the same results.
  • Do you have a 30-100 ohm resistor between pin 20 on the teensy and data-in on the LED strip?  - ANSWER: Yes, I have a 100Ohm resistor installed in the blade between the pin on the connector and the data-in pins on the strips.
  • If the rainbow effect usually starts at a particular spot, you may have a bad led or cracked solder joint in the strip itself. - ANSWER: the rainbow effect happens over the entire blade in what appears to be a random pattern.
  • Voltage issues / weak battery, if the voltage drops too much, it can cause communication failures in the strip. Try measuring the voltage at the end of the strip. - No result yet.
  • Noise, cross-talk and noisy power to the teensy can also cause issues. Try putting a large capacitor between + and - and see if that helps. -
     QUESTION: Can you recommend a specific capacitor and specify exactly where I should place this between + and 1?
  • It's possible that the strips don't like being back-to-back. Did you try it with the arduino after gluing them together? - RESULT: I connected the blade to my Arduino Uno test rig and had now issues running various test patterns up and down the blade.  I am limited however as I'm using the 5V pin from the Uno to power the LED strips.  If I try to light both strips fully the Uno will brown-out and reset.  I can however run test patterns that light only a few LEDs at a time without issue (no rainbow effect).

I'll continue to work on the remaining steps you gave.

Thanks again for your assistance.


Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #279 on: May 29, 2017, 09:17:32 PM »
So I now understand that you need to press both the "pow" and "aux" button to step through the presets.  Possibly allow "aux2" to do this might be nice (just my opinion).

I would prefer to use aux2 for things that you would need more immediate access to.
(Although, I'm not sure what that would be, so maybe "next preset" would be reasonable for now.)

Quote
  • It could be a timing issue, try WS2811_580kHz or WS2811_400kHz - RESULT: Neither of these works at all.  The blade lights full white with no animations when I use either of these profiles.
  • Timing issue #2, teensysaber actually uses 740kHz instead of 800kHz, it's possible the strip doesn't like that. (Try search and replace 740000 with 800000 in the code.) - RESULT: I made this change and it had no effect on my issue.  Everything still worked but still had the rainbow sparkling effect.
  • What kind of strip is it? Does it have a datasheet we can look at to determine the timing? Maybe what you need is WS2813_8000kHz? - RESULT: Unfortunately my LED strips were purchased from AliExpress and they don't seem to have a datasheet available.  I tried WS2813_800kHz and this yielded the same results.
  • Do you have a 30-100 ohm resistor between pin 20 on the teensy and data-in on the LED strip?  - ANSWER: Yes, I have a 100Ohm resistor installed in the blade between the pin on the connector and the data-in pins on the strips.
  • If the rainbow effect usually starts at a particular spot, you may have a bad led or cracked solder joint in the strip itself. - ANSWER: the rainbow effect happens over the entire blade in what appears to be a random pattern.
  • Voltage issues / weak battery, if the voltage drops too much, it can cause communication failures in the strip. Try measuring the voltage at the end of the strip. - No result yet.
  • Noise, cross-talk and noisy power to the teensy can also cause issues. Try putting a large capacitor between + and - and see if that helps. -
     QUESTION: Can you recommend a specific capacitor and specify exactly where I should place this between + and 1?
  • It's possible that the strips don't like being back-to-back. Did you try it with the arduino after gluing them together? - RESULT: I connected the blade to my Arduino Uno test rig and had now issues running various test patterns up and down the blade.  I am limited however as I'm using the 5V pin from the Uno to power the LED strips.  If I try to light both strips fully the Uno will brown-out and reset.  I can however run test patterns that light only a few LEDs at a time without issue (no rainbow effect).


I think we can probably rule out power drops actually, because power drops cause effects which are much more pronounced towards the
end of the blade. Timing, weak power and noise are still on the table though.

A few more things to add to the list:

1) Try setting the blade color in the preset to Rgb<0,0,30> or something. Does that significantly change the problem? (The idea would be that using less power might work better.)
2) Try disconnecting one of the strips. Does that significantly change the problem?
3) What battery are you using? Maybe try something with a little more omph?

As for the capacitor: Basically the bigger the capacitor the better. Just beware that the capacitor can trigger the battery cut-off
circuit if it's *too* big. And if it's an electrolytic capacitor, make sure to hook up + and - correctly.
Ferrite cores can also help eliminate noise.

It could be that 100 ohm is too much, maybe try 30 ohms instead? (Or maybe remove the resistor and hook it up directly.)
My experience is that it works better *with* the resistor, but I'm not sure what the problem is with your strips, so you
might need to try a few different things.

One more thing: What library are you using on the uno? I could see if I can figure out what timing parameter it uses and see
if they are different from the one I use.

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #280 on: May 30, 2017, 10:54:46 AM »

Quote
I think we can probably rule out power drops actually, because power drops cause effects which are much more pronounced towards the
end of the blade. Timing, weak power and noise are still on the table though.

A few more things to add to the list:

1) Try setting the blade color in the preset to Rgb<0,0,30> or something. Does that significantly change the problem? (The idea would be that using less power might work better.)
2) Try disconnecting one of the strips. Does that significantly change the problem?
3) What battery are you using? Maybe try something with a little more omph?

As for the capacitor: Basically the bigger the capacitor the better. Just beware that the capacitor can trigger the battery cut-off
circuit if it's *too* big. And if it's an electrolytic capacitor, make sure to hook up + and - correctly.
Ferrite cores can also help eliminate noise.

It could be that 100 ohm is too much, maybe try 30 ohms instead? (Or maybe remove the resistor and hook it up directly.)
My experience is that it works better *with* the resistor, but I'm not sure what the problem is with your strips, so you
might need to try a few different things.

One more thing: What library are you using on the uno? I could see if I can figure out what timing parameter it uses and see
if they are different from the one I use.

Thanks for the additional feedback and ideas.  I will try some of these tests later this evening. 

You mention the 100 Ohm resistor possibly being too big.  Would we be able to rule that out if my Arduino Uno testing is connected with the 100 Ohm resistor in line and I don't have any of these issues )It is a much lower power setup though)?

I found two sizes of Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors on Sparkfun... one at 100uF/25V and one at 1000uF/25V.  The later is about 2 cm long and 1 cm in diameter which I probably could fit it (barely).  The 100uF one is about 1.3 cm long and .6 cm in diameter which I could fit fairly easily.  Do you think the 100uF is enough?

Also, the library I used for testing on the Uno is the Adafirut_NeoPixel library found at github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel.

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #281 on: May 30, 2017, 11:05:12 AM »
Thanks for the additional feedback and ideas.  I will try some of these tests later this evening. 

You mention the 100 Ohm resistor possibly being too big.  Would we be able to rule that out if my Arduino Uno testing is connected with the 100 Ohm resistor in line and I don't have any of these issues )It is a much lower power setup though)?

Arduino uno is a 5v part, so it will have a much easier time pushing signals through the resistor. The teensy only puts out 3.3 volts. One way to explore if this is the problem or not is to send the signal through a level shifter, like this one: ttps://www.adafruit.com/product/1787

If that works, there are smaller parts that might fit better inside a saber.
Quote

I found two sizes of Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors on Sparkfun... one at 100uF/25V and one at 1000uF/25V.  The later is about 2 cm long and 1 cm in diameter which I probably could fit it (barely).  The 100uF one is about 1.3 cm long and .6 cm in diameter which I could fit fairly easily.  Do you think the 100uF is enough?


If you don't have capacitors already, don't worry about it. It's unlikely to actually work anyways. Mostly it's just a way to try things out. 100uF would definitely be big enough.

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Also, the library I used for testing on the Uno is the Adafirut_NeoPixel library found at github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel.

I'll have a look at it later to see if there is anything else we can try.

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #282 on: May 30, 2017, 11:22:58 AM »

Quote
Also, the library I used for testing on the Uno is the Adafirut_NeoPixel library found at github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel.

I'll have a look at it later to see if there is anything else we can try.

I'm not good at "later"...
I took a look, and you might want to try changing WS2811_TIMING_T1H to 200 and see if that helps.

Offline profezzorn

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #283 on: May 30, 2017, 11:30:29 AM »

Quote
Also, the library I used for testing on the Uno is the Adafirut_NeoPixel library found at github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel.

I'll have a look at it later to see if there is anything else we can try.

I'm not good at "later"...
I took a look, and you might want to try changing WS2811_TIMING_T1H to 200 and see if that helps.


Actually, no, that's not right...
The timing used by the adafruit library seems to be:

#define WS2811_TIMING_T0H 85
#define WS2811_TIMING_T1H 170

(At roughly 800kHz)

It's an easy thing to try, but I suspect it won't help.
(Although, increaing T0H will give the signal a little bit longer to rise to 3.3v, so maybe it will help?)

Offline Obi-Ken Wanobi

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Re: Announcing the Teensy Saber open source sound board
« Reply #284 on: May 30, 2017, 12:47:35 PM »
Quote

Actually, no, that's not right...
The timing used by the adafruit library seems to be:

#define WS2811_TIMING_T0H 85
#define WS2811_TIMING_T1H 170

(At roughly 800kHz)

It's an easy thing to try, but I suspect it won't help.
(Although, increaing T0H will give the signal a little bit longer to rise to 3.3v, so maybe it will help?)

I will give this a try as soon as I get home this evening (I'm actually at work and shouldn't really be doing this right now.)  :wink:
« Last Edit: May 30, 2017, 04:23:02 PM by Obi-Ken Wanobi »

 

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