Hi all. I've journeyed into bringing life into a gutted 2010 Master Replica's Vader hilt I got stupid cheap.
Everything went smoothly, modified the switch into a tactile button, setup a tri-cree dark-red/dark-red/white to a CSS adapter. used 1.2ohm 3watt on the red. .5ohm 3watt on the white.
Wires braided down to a Nano Biscotte V4. with a 28mm speaker, powered by a trustfire 3.7 li-on.
Table test went great, fired up and responded well, until the 1.2ohm smoked and popped. Decided to give each red it's own resistor instead, makes no sense to me but, well that's what it is now, and no burnouts since.
It has been fine the past few days, never left on for more than a couple minutes at a time, no dueling, just simple taps for testing and programming the settings.
This is when I noticed the the White LED was staying on, but dim, even when not being activated. I also noticed random pops from the speaker. When selecting a bank, the LED seems to fluctuate to the speaker's sound.
I took it apart and checked continuity with my meter, Switch is fine, LED wiring is fine, so I checked the board, I found that with the switch and LEDS disconnected, if I touch from the positive battery post to one of the negative LED post, it would spike, then level back out.
I used a soft brush and circuit cleaner to brush the board clean. but no change.
So I did the only reasonable idea, I stuck it in my oven at 420F for 5 minutes and then allowed to cool to room temp.
I soldered all the wires back on and put things back together and it seemed to fix it, I had no issues at all, until today, it started the same thing again, only this time one of the red LEDs randomly flickering and speaker popping while left on the mantel.
So the battery is back out as I sit scratching my head. Is it likely I just have a bad board?
Seems I cannot share images even the built in attachment in the post tools gives that same error.