FX-Sabers.com
FX-Sabers Discussion - Including a Gallery of custom sabers. => New Ideas and Technologies => Topic started by: naigon on March 28, 2011, 03:35:58 PM
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In the midst of the Ultrasound going out and not realizing that Tim would be selling the PC to customers, I took it upon myself to start working on my own driver board as a project to learn Firmware programming. After a few months of research, learning and experimenting, I can now deliver demo #2 of what I'm calling Ignitertm.
Designed to be a top of the line Led and Sound Driver, Ignitertm currently has the following feature set:
Sounds
- Supports up to 9 different sound fonts (or banks).
- Supports following sound types: swing, clash, blaster block, lockup, extension, retraction, hum.
- Allows up to 99 different types of each of the above, selected randomly at runtime.
- Supports mono wav's at either 22050 or 44100Hz.
- Has TrueMix - hum is played constantly in the background via the firmware and swing/clash are loaded over type and mixed at runtime. This means no more manually mixing hum into sound fonts and no more remixing if you want a swing from one font but a clash from another - software does all mixing!
LED Driver
- Has LED ramp up, realistic pulse (movie shimmer) and ramp down.
- LED pulse and ramp effects are configurable via config.
- Has microSD card to load sound fonts and configs from.
- Each font/bank has unique settings for the Led and sound parameters.
General
- Master config controls number of Fonts, MA for the Led, and button settings
- Each font has configurable number of sounds from 1 to 99.
- Startup plays current sound font desc, then is in waiting mode to either start or select the next font.
- Supports micro SD cards in FAT16/32, up to 2GB for FAT16, 8 GB for FAT32.
The following features will be added over the next few months:
- Driving an actual Luxeon LED.
- Flash support.
- 8 accent LEDs with varying displays.
- Swing sensing for accurate swing detection.
Here is a link to the video of what I have so far. Sorry about the bug that happens in the middle, the demo curse got me again!
Igniter demo 2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQ1LswhIB5I)
UPDATE I'll be posting all videos here for ease of clicking :) You can go to the end of the thread for better descriptions:
Demo 3 (Sound demo) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc5LXYsBj04)
Demo 4 (Led Driver) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNDqaq22uZQ)
Demo 5 pt1 (Accent Leds) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW5zuHZyhtI)
Demo 5 pt2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBuS37OTQU8)
Demo 6 Color Led driving (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJeblf3je44)
Demo 7 SaberPlayer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMfMx2fqmmM)
Demo 8 Swing Sensing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1djcU1GRng)
Teaser video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjCeMi4AgGY)
Reveal pt1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEZ63NT0bDI)
Reveal prt2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x77sM1uxxno)
Swing Sensing Demo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbFfQf4S98U)
Clash Sensing Demo and TruColor(tm) reveal (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqfA66F0BQg)
TruMix(tm) with Auto-Compressing Technology(tm) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7mZ7H2K2hM)
Sound creation Tutorial pt1. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds8zvwPzuWg)
All Too Easy sound font (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q8hSIiklFQ)
Now That's What I Call Racin' sound font (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrlDYVKEiFk)
That's about it for now; I'd be curious to get people's thoughts and see how much interest there would be in a project like this. Let me know what you desire/think/want/must have!
-Naigon
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Very interesting stuff! I really like that TruMix feature. Keep up the good work. :)
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Wow, that sounds great! I'd love to buy one for my next build!! Well, when it is a completed board, ;)
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Very nice work. I will be subscribing to this thread, and watching with great interest.
I suspect one of your bugs could be the puppy. Hes actually a sith agent with lightning. Be careful of ESD.
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Very impressive work! :) It'll be interesting to see how this comes out.
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Looks promissing keep it up 8)
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"We will be watching your career with great interest." ;)
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In the midst of the Ultrasound going out and not realizing that Tim would be selling the PC to customers, I took it upon myself to start working on my own driver board as a project to learn Firmware programming.
LOL, you make it sound so casual...
But seriously, a big WOW :o
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
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THIS................
IS....
AWESOME!
Mad props to you, keep it up! 8)
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;D This is good news and will be a great addition here :o (Once completed ;) 8) .Thanks and Good Luck ;)
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I would buy several finished products
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The name of the board alone is awesome ! ( The Igniter ) Great choice. If I were building one, I have no idea what I would call it. Keep it up man ! Hmmm.. I wonder what it will cost for the final product? : )
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While I think it's always a great thing for people to see a need and to try to fill it, I guess I have the unpleasant task of bursting your bubble for the time being.
Before you can sell ANYTHING, you must first sign the rules and regulations for the trade federation: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23624.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23624.0) The biggest being you must at this time fulfill the 3/50 time requirement - 3 months and 50 substantial posts. Also, if there is a run, it must be approved by Yoda BEFORE it is posted.
It would also be a good idea for a couple of the driver boards were sent to established community members for 'field testing' and reviews before having this put on the market for general consumption, but that is a 100% Asajj Ventress opinion, and not the Official Stance of FX-Sabers.
Now, while I HATE being a wet blanket, I am only giving this advice based on the experience of those that have come before you, and being the lazy schlub that I am, would prefer not to go through any unintended and unforeseen foolishness again.
But, good luck and DEFINITELY keep us posted! 8)
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Looks like you have put a lot of time and effort into this endeavor :). Looks good so far. The sound quality doesn't come across well on the video but, as you mentioned, it is a cheap speaker. I would suggest in future demos you use a higher quality speaker and put the speaker in a resonance chamber. We keep a half a hilt around for demoing ourselves ;). However, it looks like you are working on a lot of the features people really like and I look forward to watching your progress. Thanks for sharing :)!
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Definitely looks promising there my good man! I would have to echo the previous comment of it being a good idea, once you have a few prototypes made, to distribute them among some of the top sabersmiths around here for experimentation and giving it a good workthrough. Would hate to have another sabersound debacle come from something that has alot of potential for sure!
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While I think it's always a great thing for people to see a need and to try to fill it, I guess I have the unpleasant task of bursting your bubble for the time being.
Before you can sell ANYTHING, you must first sign the rules and regulations for the trade federation: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23624.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23624.0) The biggest being you must at this time fulfill the 3/50 time requirement - 3 months and 50 substantial posts. Also, if there is a run, it must be approved by Yoda BEFORE it is posted.
It would also be a good idea for a couple of the driver boards were sent to established community members for 'field testing' and reviews before having this put on the market for general consumption, but that is a 100% Asajj Ventress opinion, and not the Official Stance of FX-Sabers.
Now, while I HATE being a wet blanket, I am only giving this advice based on the experience of those that have come before you, and being the lazy schlub that I am, would prefer not to go through any unintended and unforeseen foolishness again.
But, good luck and DEFINITELY keep us posted! 8)
8)
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I would say if you can provide all those features in a board that will fit in a hilt, as well as good sound quality you would have a lot of interested customers. As far as distributing them to smiths prior to selling them at a site/on fx sabers that is a good suggestion.
Not to prove the boards work but to get experienced and knowlegdful individuals who can find out if there are any bugs to work out, as well as provide feedback for the finished product and with their approval additional customers will feel more comfortable using your product.
I know personally my favorite feature on all the boards that have been available is the COF feature.
With that said, I wish you good luck on your endevor and will personally note that this thread will be placed on my notify option after the originally flurry of posts settles down :)
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Its always nice to have another techy come through here and bring something new to the table. We all thank you for you work, and look forward to seeing your final product. Great Job 8)
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This is awesome :) I only have one problem. Your Lockup effect, by the looks of it, it is just a file played at random, unlike the Ultrasound, Crystal Focus, Petit Crouton, etc. They play the lockup continuously until you manually stop it ie. Letting go of the Aux button on CF/PC and pressing the button again on a US. Will your Aux button eventually act like my mentioning of the CF/PC/US?
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Wow, thanks everyone for the super response. Apparently my free time techie (read geeky) project is of interest. Let me try to respond to some of the biggest questions/concerns.
Very interesting stuff! I really like that TruMix feature.
Thanks Shadeslinger, I'm the most proud of the TruMix myself. Actually, I've been calling it TrueMix, but I like TruMix better. Do you mind if I use it? I'll give you a special thanks in the liner notes, and maybe you can become one of my beta testers.
While I think it's always a great thing for people to see a need and to try to fill it, I guess I have the unpleasant task of bursting your bubble for the time being.
Before you can sell ANYTHING, you must first sign the rules and regulations for the trade federation: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23624.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23624.0) The biggest being you must at this time fulfill the 3/50 time requirement - 3 months and 50 substantial posts. Also, if there is a run, it must be approved by Yoda BEFORE it is posted.
It would also be a good idea for a couple of the driver boards were sent to established community members for 'field testing' and reviews before having this put on the market for general consumption, but that is a 100% Asajj Ventress opinion, and not the Official Stance of FX-Sabers.
Now, while I HATE being a wet blanket, I am only giving this advice based on the experience of those that have come before you, and being the lazy schlub that I am, would prefer not to go through any unintended and unforeseen foolishness again.
But, good luck and DEFINITELY keep us posted! 8)
Hey Asajj,
Thanks for the good advice. I am defiantly aware of the forum rules (I just re-read them today) and am not trying to break any rules. In fact, I've been a part of another hobby in the past (Car related) that had the same problem; scam artists ripping off the community, which is totally uncool.
Actually, I may have to bust a couple bubbles, as I think people are under the impression that I'm ready to start selling now. The fact is, I'm still months out from a final product, as I have to finish the Led driver, make a prototype that fits into a hilt, test the swing and clash, and then finally I can think of a final board. So it will be awhile before I can get something that I would even dream of letting people put their hands on.
And your idea of having some of the smiths do some initial testing is spot on; the more testing that can be done early on the better! (I'm in software for a living, can you tell? :)) In fact I would really love to see the Igniter go into the likes of a Vader's Vault hilt, their work is so inspiring it would make me proud. As I get closer to a final product I'll be contacting some of the members about the interest for testing. And feel free to give me any advice as this project is quite large and I can use some help.
Okay, enough with the bubble bursting, lets get back to some fun stuff...
Very nice work. I will be subscribing to this thread, and watching with great interest.
I suspect one of your bugs could be the puppy. Hes actually a sith agent with lightning. Be careful of ESD.
Haha, I would never expect that of Jedi Footman, he seems so innocent when I'm working with him, but maybe this is best disguise :)
This is awesome :) I only have one problem. Your Lockup effect, by the looks of it, it is just a file played at random, unlike the Ultrasound, Crystal Focus, Petit Crouton, etc. They play the lockup continuously until you manually stop it ie. Letting go of the Aux button on CF/PC and pressing the button again on a US. Will your Aux button eventually act like my mentioning of the CF/PC/US?
The lockup is random in the sense that it randomly picks one of the lockup sounds available for that font. I've never actually gotten my hands on a CF or Petite Cruton and am just designing by how I see fit. That being said, I felt the same thing when doing the demo and plan to augment my button to actually kill the sound when being released.
So in a nutshell, yes, it should be similar to a PC when done.
Thanks again everyone, and feel free to keep asking questions, providing feedback and even making any feature requests if you desire.
Cheers,
-Naigon
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Sounds promising! I look forward to seeing your final results. I think that if this is something that may be offered in the future, that it would be a welcome addition to the community. But I must say that it also would be wise to stay within the confines of respect to the established members of this forum and keep in good faith with them as well.
Best of luck in your endeavor and I look forward to seeing what comes of this!
:)
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Good start. Many things to work out you have, but possibilities this project has.
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That's awesome! :o
Keep it up the great work 8) 8)
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But I must say that it also would be wise to stay within the confines of respect to the established members of this forum and keep in good faith with them as well.
Best of luck in your endeavor and I look forward to seeing what comes of this!
I think he is showing due respect with the topic :)
As far as the time it takes to bring an idea to market, I figured you were months/a possible year? away from actually having a functional project, but the base ideas seem to be coming together. By then i'm sure he will be a well known figure on the forums, for much promise this young one shows.
Always nice to see new blood, and new ideas flowing into the hobby
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Excellent work! :o
I too look forward to seeing how this progresses. The TruMix feature is a great idea. At this early stage in development having one apparent bug seems to be pretty good going in my book. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like with a better quality speaker & to see the further development of the LED driver aspect. Personally, no disrespect intended, I'd be very surprised if it only took a few months to reach a prototype PCB stage. Knowing how long development of a product like this can take, especially when it's a hobby or side project, I'd be more than impressed if such a prototype reached the testing stage this side of xmas.
On the subject of the FoC feature, will this be something integrated into the main board itself or will it require a satellite/daughter board? Also what kinds of LED's are you planning to make it compatible with & do you have any plans for what kind of max/min power requirements it might have?
Best of luck with this Naigon, I look forward to seeing more as it develops. :)
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I too would like to know the intended target min/max voltage input and output ranges and maximum current out but so far...intriguingly promising.
MTFBWY as you continue development.
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Very impressive. You asked for suggestions / what we'd like to see, so I have a couple things to I'd like to mention that have been on my mind.
1. Configurable sound interrupt parameters
In regards to blaster block and lockup, I'd like to have not just the wavs configurable, but ideally their behavior. That would include adjusting flicker effects (which the Ultrasound, and to a greater extent the PC and Crystal Focus currently allow for), but also the ability to choose whether or not they can be interrupted by other sounds, like clashes and swings. Keep in mind that for maximum openness, not all users will necessarily use the blaster block / lockup slots strictly for blaster block / lockup effects. Or they just may or may not want their blaster block effects, for example, to be able to be interrupted by clash and / or swing effects for matters of personal taste. Or they may just want to ditch the blaster block and have two different kinds of lockup effects available on the fly for variety's sake. I don't know about the Crystal Focus, but to the best of my knowledge the Ultrasound, PC, and MR boards do not allow you to adjust which sound effect can interrupt which. Instead, they are set at what are generally very sensible, logical choices: blaster blocks can be interrupted by clashes but not swings, lockup can't be interrupted by anything. But personally, I'd rather have two totally open, configurable sound files whose interrupt parameters are totally configurable, rather than two which are optimized to serve as straight blaster blocks / lockup.
2. Unwanted swing sfx activation control
The other issue I wanted to address is the problem of activating unwanted swings, which you get when using the rolling ball swing detectors used on MR and PC boards. If you plan to go with an accelerometer, like the CF or the Ultrasound, this problem is pretty much solved for you. But if you will be using the rolling ball setup (which will, on the positive side, allow you to control price a bit), then I have a suggestion. I'd like to see momentary swing deactivation available on your soundboard, such that the user could depress a button on their hilt which will make swings impossible to activate while held down.
Why? So that when you are just standing there, or walking slowly with the hilt held in front of you, you don't hear the hilt go "whoosh - whoosh - vim - slash - whoosh!" just because you breathed or turned to look at your brother. There are many great moments in the films where there is a break in the fighting and the two opponents are squaring off, measuring each other, pacing slowly, etc., and all you hear is the quiet hum of their blades. That's hard to achieve currently with MR and PC boards.
There are two ways you could implement this. One would be to have an additional sound slot configured (or better, configurable to be) like a lockup, featuring a duplicate hum wave. When depressed, this would produce a hum sound that could not be interrupted by a swing or clash. (In fact, if you commission a PC board from a smith, you should be able to do this now (not on the TCSS ones) by substituting a hum wav for your lockup. It's just that you'd lose the lockup.)
An even simpler solution, as I was advised recently, would be to just put in a momentary / latching switch that opened the circuit of the swing detector, effectively deactivating it for as long as the button was depressed. A very easy solution, and one that could potentially be applied to any sound board with metal ball swing detection (although not without monkeying with the board and thus invalidating your warranty if you're working with a PC).
When the swing is fully active, of course, this solution still won't give it the precision swing registration of a CF or Ultrasound. But this workaround would get rid of the most annoying problem, the activation of a flurry of battle action sounds when you're just standing there doing nothing. Again, this fix would likely work on any metal ball swing detection sound board, but since you're still in the formative stages, you could integrate it more elegantly if you were so inclined.
Anyhow, that's my two cents. Best of luck with your new board. I'm definitely interested in seeing your progress.
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well, electronics is all above my head... unfortunately .. but i do understand R@D work and it looks like a good 12 months on this project, accelerometor seems the way to go, 3 axis and high G sensing and hang the cost. 99 different swing and clash sounds seems like overkill, surety 20.. 30 would be MORE than enough?. 1.2 amp , what about a 2 or 2.5 amp ? ... all this said i believe that EVERYONE wishes you complete success with this project, so best of luck.
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Nice work. Keep it up. ;)
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This is sounding excellent! I love the separation of the SFX, it all sounds nice and clean. Keep up the good work, you have our support! ^\^
MTFBWYA
- Kett Tares
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Awesome stuff, maybe the Igniter can rival the "Buttered Toast" sometime in the future and be called something like "Caviar" or "Maple Syrup Pancake" or "Fried Chicken" ;D :D :)
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...accelerometor seems the way to go, 3 axis and high G sensing and hang the cost...
...all this said i believe that EVERYONE wishes you complete success with this project, so best of luck.
There are very definite reasons an accelerometer is NOT the way to go that have nothing to do with cost but this is a rather 'sensitive' subject here that we probably should not discuss in this thread...you might want to send a PM to LDM or others involved with the Petit Crouton development and I'm sure they could explain those 'non technical reasons' why the PC uses a ball sensor not accelerometers and why using accelerometers might be better avoided for any aspiring soundboard maker...I certainly do wish you success with this project as everyone does so wouldnt want you to choose a technology that could create 'other problems' for you down the line...probably 'nuff said' on that subject. :-\ MTFBWY
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I would use the accelerometer if I were you. I think someone should challenge the notion that a certain type of component can be patented for a certain use. That's like saying I patented using a led to light a saber blade so you can't do it too. :'( ::)
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Looks very promising. Im just hoping it wont be like crystal focus being impossible to get, as i feel like the more wealthy people on the boards here have 5 or more CF sabers. Is that a Arduino Nano 3.0 i see there in the middle? Who were you thinking to have do final board construction? keep up the good work. I will follow this tread with great interest.
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I would love to see a board that has wide availability and isn't limited to two sound fonts and two accent LEDs (amongst other issues). I'm working with PC-Ls in my builds because it is the best quality board that I can get my hands on. If there were CFs on the market, I'd buy a bunch of them but there aren't. I understand why there aren't but that doesn't make me wish I had one (or more) any less.
I'm glad to see others stepping up and working on designs. I think the saber building community at large shares that sentiment. I don't want to buy a pre-built saber, I want to build my own and I have a strong desire to have more freedom than the PC-L has to offer.
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definately go with an accelerometer.
I would love to see a board that has wide availability and isn't limited to two sound fonts and two accent LEDs (amongst other issues). I'm working with PC-Ls in my builds because it is the best quality board that I can get my hands on. If there were CFs on the market, I'd buy a bunch of them but there aren't. I understand why there aren't but that doesn't make me wish I had one (or more) any less.
I'm glad to see others stepping up and working on designs. I think the saber building community at large shares that sentiment. I don't want to buy a pre-built saber, I want to build my own and I have a strong desire to have more freedom than the PC-L has to offer.
Nuff said
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It's already better than a US, breadboard and all. At least it doesn't clash right when you turn it on. ;D Keep it going!
RG
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Great stuff, man! :o
My 2-cents: if you haven't already, start a dialogue with Erv & LDM/Grievous. Why reinvent the wheel and learn the same difficult lessons the hard way, instead if via one-to-one dialogue between colleagues?
The smiths and manufacturers here are Extraordinarily willing to help those who genuinely want to advance the hobby. Be grateful and respectful. I think you will find them receptive to help.
Innovation/creativity should be encouraged... If someone wants to challenge your ideas/design, let them.
You seem to be enjoying your self-proclaimed "tinkering"; good on ya... ;)
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looks good!..
(now to prototype it all on a small footprint PCB.) =)
your 'tru mixing' is nice..
its the same as the RFX platform.. 2 channels
(you can have the constant background sound (hum).. and play any other sound files over that one.)
what micro-controller is it based off?
Did you start from scratch with a PIC or ATMEL..or use a jump-point platform..like an Arduino or something?
also (I dont recall seeing (sorry) )are you using senors? or any sort of accelerometer? or are effects only triggered by button press?
thanks.
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Good start. Many things to work out you have, but possibilities this project has.
+1
Look forward to seeing more. (Add me as interested.)
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I too would like to know the intended target min/max voltage input and output ranges and maximum current out but so far...intriguingly promising.
MTFBWY as you continue development.
Thanks for the interest, these are the kinds of details we need to get flushed out now.
Right now the audio amp does require an absolute minimum of 5v to run well and doesn't really sound good until 6, so your chances of using a single 3.7v li-ion are probably out the window.
Maximum is somewhat open right now as it really depends on the final 3.3v regulator I choose, but I would expect the ability to go up to 12v (all components besides the microcontroller can take more than this even). Just remember that the higher voltage you use compared to voltage required will make more heat, so you would probably run into some serious cooling issues at anything above 9v-ish.
Hope this helps.
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Very impressive. You asked for suggestions / what we'd like to see, so I have a couple things to I'd like to mention that have been on my mind.
1. Configurable sound interrupt parameters
In regards to blaster block and lockup, I'd like to have not just the wavs configurable, but ideally their behavior. That would include adjusting flicker effects (which the Ultrasound, and to a greater extent the PC and Crystal Focus currently allow for), but also the ability to choose whether or not they can be interrupted by other sounds, like clashes and swings. Keep in mind that for maximum openness, not all users will necessarily use the blaster block / lockup slots strictly for blaster block / lockup effects. Or they just may or may not want their blaster block effects, for example, to be able to be interrupted by clash and / or swing effects for matters of personal taste. Or they may just want to ditch the blaster block and have two different kinds of lockup effects available on the fly for variety's sake. I don't know about the Crystal Focus, but to the best of my knowledge the Ultrasound, PC, and MR boards do not allow you to adjust which sound effect can interrupt which. Instead, they are set at what are generally very sensible, logical choices: blaster blocks can be interrupted by clashes but not swings, lockup can't be interrupted by anything. But personally, I'd rather have two totally open, configurable sound files whose interrupt parameters are totally configurable, rather than two which are optimized to serve as straight blaster blocks / lockup.
2. Unwanted swing sfx activation control
The other issue I wanted to address is the problem of activating unwanted swings, which you get when using the rolling ball swing detectors used on MR and PC boards. If you plan to go with an accelerometer, like the CF or the Ultrasound, this problem is pretty much solved for you. But if you will be using the rolling ball setup (which will, on the positive side, allow you to control price a bit), then I have a suggestion. I'd like to see momentary swing deactivation available on your soundboard, such that the user could depress a button on their hilt which will make swings impossible to activate while held down.
Why? So that when you are just standing there, or walking slowly with the hilt held in front of you, you don't hear the hilt go "whoosh - whoosh - vim - slash - whoosh!" just because you breathed or turned to look at your brother. There are many great moments in the films where there is a break in the fighting and the two opponents are squaring off, measuring each other, pacing slowly, etc., and all you hear is the quiet hum of their blades. That's hard to achieve currently with MR and PC boards.
There are two ways you could implement this. One would be to have an additional sound slot configured (or better, configurable to be) like a lockup, featuring a duplicate hum wave. When depressed, this would produce a hum sound that could not be interrupted by a swing or clash. (In fact, if you commission a PC board from a smith, you should be able to do this now (not on the TCSS ones) by substituting a hum wav for your lockup. It's just that you'd lose the lockup.)
An even simpler solution, as I was advised recently, would be to just put in a momentary / latching switch that opened the circuit of the swing detector, effectively deactivating it for as long as the button was depressed. A very easy solution, and one that could potentially be applied to any sound board with metal ball swing detection (although not without monkeying with the board and thus invalidating your warranty if you're working with a PC).
When the swing is fully active, of course, this solution still won't give it the precision swing registration of a CF or Ultrasound. But this workaround would get rid of the most annoying problem, the activation of a flurry of battle action sounds when you're just standing there doing nothing. Again, this fix would likely work on any metal ball swing detection sound board, but since you're still in the formative stages, you could integrate it more elegantly if you were so inclined.
Anyhow, that's my two cents. Best of luck with your new board. I'm definitely interested in seeing your progress.
Great suggestions! Here are my answers:
1. I think some configuration could be done here so that clashes had the choice to be over-rideen or not say, but for some key things (when in blaster block mode a clash should override it and exit the mode) would not be configurable.
I'll spend some more time looking at the main detection loop and think about how I could incorporate this, but its a great idea as you could set up different fonts for different purposes (IE one font with clash overriding everything as a dueling font, one with blaster block overriding as your "show" font, ect). I'll put it in my notebook and think it over.
2. Great idea, but the only issue is that another switch would be required; but you could say turn the functionality of the aux hold to not have lockup and do this instead only for fonts with this config specified. I'd definitely be interested to get other's opinions on this as I would choose to solve this by setting the sensitivity really high for a font that would mostly be standing still and one really sensitive for one that I would swing around a lot.
As for the accelerometer, as perfect as it would be I'm very hesitant to use it mainly due to the price. Most good ones that would interface with the micro-controller well are like 30 USD apiece, so that would really drive the price up. I'm currently thinking of trying 3 swing sensors in an X, Y, Z pattern to be able to get motion from each direction and have the ability to filter out unwanted triggering. I think the biggest problem with the swing sensor is that it really only gives good info in one direction, so using three with the correct filtering may work well.
But if everyone wants to pay a much huger price an accelerometer would be an okay choice too; I'd definitely like to hear some opinions on that.
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I don't think we would care about the price increase. Fellas feel free to agree with me
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I don't think we would care about the price increase. Fellas feel free to agree with me
There is one very loud person who will care a LOT. Trust me, an accelerometer is a BAD idea. Don't you all think there is a very good reason that the PC doesn't use one? ::)
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The only reason I haven't purchased a PC-L is because it doesn't have an accelerometer. If it had and accelerometer instead of the ball bearing switches, I would have bought 4 of them.
I hope you decide to have the accelerometer or a way to add it on for people that want to pay the extra money, perhaps as an add on with molex connector or something.
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I don't think we would care about the price increase. Fellas feel free to agree with me
There is one very loud person who will care a LOT. Trust me, an accelerometer is a BAD idea. Don't you all think there is a very good reason that the PC doesn't use one? ::)
I take LDMs side on this. They wouldn't have just decided to not use an accelerometer just for giggles, there is a reason, and for them to agree on it, it must be a big reason.
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I don't think we would care about the price increase. Fellas feel free to agree with me
There is one very loud person who will care a LOT. Trust me, an accelerometer is a BAD idea. Don't you all think there is a very good reason that the PC doesn't use one? ::)
While I think that this is a great project and am happy that you are tackling it, I have to agree with LDM here. From a common sense point of view, if the PC doesn't use an accelerometer, there is probably a xxx GOOD reason why, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have anything to do with the price. ;) I also agree that there is a very loud person (or two) who will care a LOT! :'(
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it's politics I guess, but that is a good reason. It is never a good idea to bite the hand that feeds you. Wow, I'm glad no one got angry with me for that and I apologize for my ignorance. Apologies to anyone I may have offended. Maybe the option for sensing the swing isn't either accelerometer or ball bearing based. Maybe you should reinvent the wheel. Just my .02
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The only reason I haven't purchased a PC-L is because it doesn't have an accelerometer. If it had and accelerometer instead of the ball bearing switches, I would have bought 4 of them.
I hope you decide to have the accelerometer or a way to add it on for people that want to pay the extra money, perhaps as an add on with molex connector or something.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi291.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll317%2Fdrdicarlo%2FJSSDC%2520Banners%2Fpower-rangers-facepalm-space-delimited-demotivational-poster-1249607259.jpg&hash=34b973464e95b2dd73376772019e370917eb1428)
There is a VERY good reason that it does not have an accelerometer. It never will have one. If you or anyone else wants to know why, do a little digging around this forum for other soundboard manufacturers and you will educate yourself as to why.
Forgetful Jedi Knight knows why as does anyone else who has been around for a few years. Sometimes we (those who have been around) ask for trust in that we know what we are doing. I will not speak of the details on the forum. All of the info is still here for anyone to peruse at his/her leisure.
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It's politics, but I guess that is a good reason. It is never a good idea to bite the hand that feeds you.
I promise you it has nothing to do with the hand that feeds us (Erv').
The only reason I haven't purchased a PC-L is because it doesn't have an accelerometer. If it had and accelerometer instead of the ball bearing switches, I would have bought 4 of them.
I hope you decide to have the accelerometer or a way to add it on for people that want to pay the extra money, perhaps as an add on with molex connector or something.
It doesn't work that way. It requires different programming for either sensor. I am no programmer though so I may be way off here.
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My apologies...I did not intend to cause any threadjack which is why I suggested PMs might be more appropriate than discussing it here - as Forgetful Jedi Knight said I was simply "trying to save Naigon time and needless aggravation in pointing him in a specific direction" away from the use of accelerometers that others, perhaps unknowingly, were trying to encourage him to pursue.
I'm sure no one wants him to create problems for himself and I hope we can get this thread back on track to encouraging him in this endeavour.
As for my questions about power issues I agree that having a large gap between power 'supply and demand' can cause problems; we've seen that on other board designs, I was trying to be "forward thinking" along lines of those who might in the future want to use this board for running multi-die LEDs like tri-rebels or LEDengins wired in series that can require higher voltages or Luminus phlatlight LEDs that can require higher amp currents than our 'usual' single LEDs.
I wish you very best of luck with this Naigon.
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My apologies...I did not intend to cause any threadjack which is why I suggested PMs might be more appropriate than discussing it here - as Forgetful Jedi Knight said I was simply "trying to save Naigon time and needless aggravation in pointing him in a specific direction" away from the use of accelerometers that others, perhaps unknowingly, were trying to encourage him to pursue.
I'm sure no one wants him to create problems for himself and I hope we can get this thread back on track to encouraging him in this endeavour.
As for my questions about power issues I agree that having a large gap between power 'supply and demand' can cause problems; we've seen that on other board designs, I was trying to be "forward thinking" along lines of those who might in the future want to use this board for running multi-die LEDs like tri-rebels or LEDengins wired in series that can require higher voltages or Luminus phlatlight LEDs that can require higher amp currents than our 'usual' single LEDs.
I wish you very best of luck with this Naigon.
I'm sure everyone here wishes the best for Naigon, and I'm also sure that those who are able to will help him as best they can. Onii, the points you bring up are things that DO have to be thought about. Maybe two different "types" of boards could be designed, depending on the voltage and power requirements - one that could deal with lower voltages and lower powered LED's and one for the Ledengin 10W (and equivalent) club.
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I am seriously biting my proverbial tongue here, let's just say that the VERY EASILY researched topic here has nothing to do with this thread and move on.
Naigon, please heed the warnings on the term that starts with accel- and ends with -ometer, and all others realize that there are more problems than just logistics, or cram-fu, or physics that get in the way of the tinkerer-hobbyist.
We're all behind you on this as you seem to have a good head on your shoulders. We'd really hate to see it get bitten off, or an arm and a leg, somewhere down the line.
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Cleaned a little....
Next time, please send a PM.
We now resume discussion and suggestions on "Igniter"
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well, electronics is all above my head... unfortunately .. but i do understand R@D work and it looks like a good 12 months on this project, accelerometor seems the way to go, 3 axis and high G sensing and hang the cost. 99 different swing and clash sounds seems like overkill, surety 20.. 30 would be MORE than enough?. 1.2 amp , what about a 2 or 2.5 amp ? ... all this said i believe that EVERYONE wishes you complete success with this project, so best of luck.
I chose the 1.2 amp for two reasons: simplicity and clarity. When reviewing various audio amps the 1.2 got much better overall reviews than most of the 2.0s I reviewed for clarity. And, it only requires 1 Cap and 2 resistors and a simple NPN to run, compared to others that required more involved components.
Remember, a lightsaber isn't supposed to be a chainsaw; you shouldn't need earplugs to use one ;D
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Remember, a lightsaber isn't supposed to be a chainsaw; you shouldn't need earplugs to use one ;D
...ahh, but there's a font for that. ;) ;D
Speaking of which, your demo shows fonts you made and at least one by Novastar. Does that mean your sound file requirements are very similar to CF/PC?
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Remember, a lightsaber isn't supposed to be a chainsaw; you shouldn't need earplugs to use one ;D
...ahh, but there's a font for that. ;) ;D
Speaking of which, your demo shows fonts you made and at least one by Novastar. Does that mean your sound file requirements are very similar to CF/PC?
Yes, right now it takes PCM formatted .wav files. They need to be mono, 16bit, and either 22050Hz or 44100Hz. PC/CF5 take the same but don't support 44100Hz I believe.
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@ Nartules:
I agree with you my friend. I happened to post my reply just after Naigon made his post! haha. I need to type faster!
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:D :D
I have not been this excited for someones pet project for years!!I'm saying welcome to the naborhood my brother. 8)
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Search 6150947.
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Search 6150947.
My 2-cents: it's naigon's project. I understand that the accelerometer issue could easily turn into a flaming war against a certain person, but I think it's bull that we're dancing around the issue like we're saying Beetlejuice's name three times...
Naigon, since this thread has already been "cleaned" once, I'm not sure what was already relayed to you (and the confused noobs reading this very interesting thread). The accelerometer may set-off a dispute with the holder of the US Patent# Luke mentions above.
Read about the details in the patent, and then go talk tech-speak-mixed-with-legal-smarts-and-lessons-learned with Erv and LDM.
Meanwhile, please, for the love of the hobby, don't shut-down your creative process.
Bottom line: you can't be sued for your ideas. You can't be sued for building your own project. You can be sued if you try to sell it (and someone else patented it first, wants to sue you, etc)...
So, if this board is intended as a future "Sale run", then yeah, tread smartly.
If it's your project for something unique you want to build, enjoy.
Either way, you've got alot of supporters here.
I can't stand to see innovation get crushed...
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I'm in love with the ideas here but I would echo the sentiments of others. Tread lightly. There are lawsuits pending against a lot of big names (Apple, HP, RIM, etc...). Your best bet is to do your research on what has been patented and litigated in the last 10 years and then work on a design that keeps that in mind.
I hope this is realized as a board some day. I would love to put it in a saber!
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Thank you Snake Eyes. I was on my iphone last night and just about to board the flight.
This is Naigon's build thread and he needs to be given any and all advice we can give him. Informing him of the patent issue is one of them. Debating it in this thread is another. Don't do it. ;)
There is no need to dance around the facts. This is no secret and it's public knowledge.
Naigon, I posted the patent number for you so you could read it for yourself. In short Hyperdyne labs owns a legal US patent for having an accelerometer in a lightsaber. We honor that patent here until the patent is suspended, revoked or challenged in any way.
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...In short Hyperdyne labs owns a legal US patent for having an accelerometer in a lightsaber...
Or does he? Searching that patent number yeilds some interesting articles as of late. In any event, some 'light' reading might be prudent.
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Interesting... looks promising... great initiative to contribute to the hobby :)
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Search 6150947.
My 2-cents: it's naigon's project. I understand that the accelerometer issue could easily turn into a flaming war against a certain person, but I think it's bull that we're dancing around the issue like we're saying Beetlejuice's name three times...
Naigon, since this thread has already been "cleaned" once, I'm not sure what was already relayed to you (and the confused noobs reading this very interesting thread). The accelerometer may set-off a dispute with the holder of the US Patent# Luke mentions above.
Read about the details in the patent, and then go talk tech-speak-mixed-with-legal-smarts-and-lessons-learned with Erv and LDM.
Meanwhile, please, for the love of the hobby, don't shut-down your creative process.
Bottom line: you can't be sued for your ideas. You can't be sued for building your own project. You can be sued if you try to sell it (and someone else patented it first, wants to sue you, etc)...
So, if this board is intended as a future "Sale run", then yeah, tread smartly.
If it's your project for something unique you want to build, enjoy.
Either way, you've got alot of supporters here.
I can't stand to see innovation get crushed...
Thanks for the advise snake eyes, and everyone that has given it. I'm glad everyone has been very supportive and are excited about this project as I am.
I think we all know the details about the the accel. now, so let's not continue to discuss that. But please feel free to PM me with any relevant details that would be helpful. I'm very grateful for the advice so far.
Yes, I would like to bring this board to market eventually, as I do want to provide to the community and delight people in the best way that I can. So hopefully someday the Igniter will be in someone's build putting a smile on their face as it is for me now :)
One last thing to everyone on this issue before moving on - just remember that just because in the past the only "responsive" light saber was built with an accelerometer doesn't mean that that is the only available and usable input device that will work. Programming is equally as important; in fact, I suspect there are at least 2 other ways to get realism with different sensor(s). So if/when I decide to use another sensor, do not assume that it will be horrible/not to par. I'm totally set on having the best possible board, so if Footman doesn't put his stamp of approval on it, it won't go out the door :)
On a lighter note I worked on the Clash LED effect last night and have a mostly working prototype for that now. I've also fixed the lockup so that releasing the button immediately stops playing the sound.
Cheers,
Scott
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This board looks very promising. It sounds like its coming along very well. Post some more videos when you get things worked out, I'm sure I'm not the only one desperately waiting for something else to see of this board! Good luck!!!
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Great response and attitude, man. I like it.
Good update, too!
Possible suggestion: if your "sensor array" were somehow 'off-board' (connected by a ribbon of wires), then folks could mount the board almost anywhere in the saber for best cram-fu and micro-SD access, yet the sensors could be in the pommel end or even near the emitter.
Then, we could put some sound-proof padding around those noisy 3-axis ball bearings and not worry about overheating the board. ;D
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Looks like you have put a lot of time and effort into this endeavor :). Looks good so far. The sound quality doesn't come across well on the video but, as you mentioned, it is a cheap speaker. I would suggest in future demos you use a higher quality speaker and put the speaker in a resonance chamber. We keep a half a hilt around for demoing ourselves ;). However, it looks like you are working on a lot of the features people really like and I look forward to watching your progress. Thanks for sharing :)!
Ask and you shall receive. :) I made a quick comparison video of my toy 2010 with the ignighter, but I put a TCSS speaker in a resonance chamber so it sounds pretty much like it would in a saber. I also used my condenser mic to really pick up the sound. I think this gives you a better overall sense of the volume and sound.
Also, I have the lockup button working better (sound quits immediately after releasing button), the new clash Led effect, and hopefully the annoying bug from last video fixed.
Cheers,
Naigon
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Resonance chamber made a world of difference and gave it a nice deep sound.
I couldn't agree more with SE about your healthy attitude. Keep doing this because you are having fun and you will enjoy every step of the process.
Super work by the way. Major Kudos.
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Look more into this sound board I will...
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This is amazing work so far. I, for one, love watching great ideas come to life.
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Hey guys,
I'm back from the lab after hours of hard work. Two weekends ago was a failure as I wrecked two Led Drivers soldering. I bought a new Soldering station (definite improvement over the radio shack stuff) and some SOIC breakout boards and got the Led driver up this weekend.
The good news: the blade effects are great! You can check out the video here:
The bad: for some reason when I'm running the Led there is a whine coming from the speaker. I suspect that its related to the frequency of the pulse from the Led effect. This is a non-programming problem though, so I'm having some issues getting to the root cause. The one thing I did notice is that if I run the Led from a separate battery source the issue doesn't happen, so I suspect its something to do with switching on/off causing some power disturbances. Please let me know if you have any advice.
Also, some of you may have noticed the accent Leds working :) I don't have it finished, so once I do I do a demo of that functionality.
Thanks for the continued support.
-Naigon
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:o I want one, hope you can find the best solution so you are able to get this bad boy onto its next stage. Maybe even into an affordable run in a few months to a year? :D
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Nice selection of soundfonts to show off the blade effects. I like the pulsing and the clash, esp on the Novastar font, and the pseudo-extend/retract fade in/out looks like it will be good too with a bit of tweaking...very promising results, if you can fix that sound issue. The EE geniuses here will probably be along shortly to release the ray shiel...er I mean to help, the Masters in the saber community are great that way. Good Luck!
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I'm gonna go make some popcorn and watch from the peanut gallery ;) ;D
Good luck on the project and keep us informed!
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he naigon very nice
i really love the fact that the sounds play over the hum (truemix) very smart we wont need mixed sounds anymore
so 99 sounds per bank and thers 9 banks?? :o wow thats alot of sound fx nearly 900
a nice feature would be (random mode) to switch the saber on and have completely random swing and clash sounds play from all the different banks
or what about a "jog" mode? to jog through the sound banks with a motion gesture? let me explaine.. similar to an ipod for eg you could hold a button down and flick the hilt up or down to cycle through the banks then release the button to select your bank
that would be so great
the main things you got to nail above all others is to make it reliable and that it "works" if you get it right you could well have something here on par with a cf
good luck man il be keeping an eye on this
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I've got the fuzzing fixed! (well almost, but I'm sure its just because I don't have a big enough cap). I used a capacitor filter to clean up the input and it works like a charm. Its amazing what you can do with simple components. I have to give a shout out to my good friends over in the robotics world though, as they gave me the idea. I'll buy some bigger capacitors tomorrow and then I'll put up a new video with better sound soon.
a nice feature would be (random mode) to switch the saber on and have completely random swing and clash sounds play from all the different banks
or what about a "jog" mode? to jog through the sound banks with a motion gesture? let me explaine.. similar to an ipod for eg you could hold a button down and flick the hilt up or down to cycle through the banks then release the button to select your bank
that would be so great
Hey Darth Steve I really like that random mode idea! Since the sounds aren't pre-mixed there is no reason why a certain swing couldn't be used with a different hum. I'll think about how difficult it would be too implement and if it seems easy enough I may add it.
And on one final note; I need to gripe about LEDs being power hungry! ;D When I just had the audio amp with small LEDs I could use one pack for 2-3 days before needing a recharge. Now its less than one day! I guess I'll need to invest in a bench power supply, otherwise I'll never be able to unplug my charger!
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WOW I'm impressed to see how far you are going with this new soundmodule.
We can always use new soundboards since it is really hard to get the good soundboards.
Also the deversaty is VERY nice.
I'm VERY glad to see this Topic.
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I got the accent Leds working correctly, and have a video demoing the functionality. I hope you guys enjoy, I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun playing with these configs once you get your hands on it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW5zuHZyhtI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW5zuHZyhtI)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBuS37OTQU8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBuS37OTQU8)
Sorry about the length; I split the video in two parts to make it fit in youtube.
Let me know what you think!
-Naigon
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Naigon,
This is progressing very nicely. I wish you nothing but success in getting this completed! Keep up the GREAT work! :D
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This is pretty awesome. Great work so far.
Since you asked for suggestions, mine is to implement a random pattern pulse effect for the main blade LED when idle, to better replicate the OT sabers. Heck, it could even be a looping sequence as long as the sequence is long enough and seemingly random as to not be able to notice that it loops.
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I'd love to see what this could do in a saber!
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eight leds
eight notes on the musical scale
How long can the "blinking" config file be?
Seems like a natural to arrange music to play on the leds
The audio wouldn't be there, but I think that would be nice.
OR,
if the igniter has an "isaber" type mode, then it can run the audio in sync with the led config.
An external app to analyze the audio and generate led configs...
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if the igniter has an "isaber" type mode, then it can run the audio in sync with the led config.
An external app to analyze the audio and generate led configs...
+1 for a "isaber" audio mode. :) Also, I thought it would be cool to have a sound bank selection menu like the Crystal Focus Saber Core, So you can't accidentally change the sound font in combat .
GK
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if the igniter has an "isaber" type mode, then it can run the audio in sync with the led config.
An external app to analyze the audio and generate led configs...
+1 for a "isaber" audio mode. :) Also, I thought it would be cool to have a sound bank selection menu like the Crystal Focus Saber Core, So you can't accidentally change the sound font in combat .
GK
Wow, two requests for iSaber mode. I thought there wouldn't be much interest for this feature and hadn't planned on doing it (honestly I find it a bit silly, its nothing a real light saber would ever do).
If people really like this feature please speak up now; if I get enough requests then I'll consider it but no promises; I'm down to about 800 longs left for code and memory, and still need to finish the swing sensing and my secret feature that if done right will hopefully blow your minds :)
The blinking config, as with all the config takes 16 values; 8 for on times and 8 for off (both in milliseconds). Unlike the CF where the user has to specify each pattern you want, I put the programming into igniter so you can select a mode and a couple values and it will do something useful right away. Granted you have a slight bit less flexibility, but this way it makes it easier for you to modify the patterns.
Sorry its been taking so long, but I found an issue with the LedDriver that kicked my buttox for the last week. I ended up scrapping the builtin functionality of the chip and wrote an assembly loop to handle driving the Leds. Hopefully I'll have something new to show by next week.
Cheers!
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iSaber isn't about realism, it's about awesome display feature.
I like it.
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iSaber isn't about realism, it's about awesome display feature.
I like it.
agreed. and the fact that the LED dances to the music is really awesome.
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iSaber isn't about realism, it's about awesome display feature.
I like it.
Agreed. It really adds that extra "oomph" to the board's functionality. I would actually argue that in some ways, this has more "wow" factor for people who have never seen a high end lightsaber than the ability to change soundfonts.
So yeah, if you have the ability to put it in, that'd be totally pimpin' ;D
Just my $0.02,
-C
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My other sites are music sites so I would have to vote for a music player [a Sith saber playing Imperial Death March is all kinds of awesome imo] and I can see how using a 8 led sequence synced to it could be a cool effect.
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well, each to his own but everyone is right , i wouldn't miss the isaber function i would sooner the board was totally focused ... no pun intended ... on beingall lightsaber related functions , as for the time taken reference , your into R@D and this is usually a long slog towards anything special so dont rush on anyone's account , in fact take as much time as you have to and go for perfection if you can.... even if you complete a good solid working prototype you might consider marketing the board and that means a reliable process of producing good quantities for sale WOW problems ... however i really hope that you succeed with all aspects of this project so im all eyes and ears. ;)
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Add me to the list... an iSaber type thing is a very cool feature.
It adds to the wow factor when showing off a hilt.
Granted... you don't ALWAYS have to use it... but it is nice to occassionally use it. ;D
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Not too fussed about Isaber but if you do add it it should be able to play mp3
Most tracks floating round these days are in mp3
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There are plenty of free converters that can convert .mp3 to .wav and that means the soundboard maker doesnt have to pay Fraunhoffer any royalties to use the .mp3 codec
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Let's not forget that mp3 is a lossy compression to begin with, and thus will sound even worse out of a single speaker like we have in our sabers.
uncompressed audio really IS the best option.
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There are plenty of free converters that can convert .mp3 to .wav and that means the soundboard maker doesnt have to pay Fraunhoffer any royalties to use the .mp3 codec
Onli-Wan pretty much nailed, I will not be adding mp3 support as its quite easy to convert mp3's to wav's nowdays for free. I've looked at the code a bit and I think adding a "SaberPlayer" (I'm going to quit using iSaber to prevent a knock on my door from Steve Jobs :)) mode wouldn't add much code, so its a possibility. However, the UV meter (leds blinking in sync with music) would require quite a bit more so its likely the led sequence will not be with the music but just the same ones you can use with the regular sound fonts. Its kind of a compromise that should make everyone happy enough.
well, each to his own but everyone is right , i wouldn't miss the isaber function i would sooner the board was totally focused ... no pun intended ... on beingall lightsaber related functions , as for the time taken reference , your into R@D and this is usually a long slog towards anything special so dont rush on anyone's account , in fact take as much time as you have to and go for perfection if you can.... even if you complete a good solid working prototype you might consider marketing the board and that means a reliable process of producing good quantities for sale WOW problems ... however i really hope that you succeed with all aspects of this project so im all eyes and ears. ;)
Vulcan also hit it on the head, my number one priority is to have the most accurate light saber functionality; any extra features are bonuses and would be add if I have space and the code is easy enough.
As far as taking too long what I meant was more along the vein of "sorry its been like 3 weeks and I didn't even post any updates". I get really geeked out in my "lab" and kind of lose track of time. The overall project will take a long time; you can't rush perfection!
Thanks for the input everyone, I'm enjoying hearing everyone's opinions and designing something that everyone wants.
Cheers,
Naigon
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Back from the lab with what I think are good updates. Special thanks to Rezolution for sending me the 3W Deal Extreme RGB LED! I was able to complete the next feature of Igniter with it. Let me tell you, it was really kicking my buttock to get 4 drivers working at the same time, but fortunately it is now working well. Assembly to the rescue again!
This evening, I unveil what I believe to be one of the best features of Igniter: color driving (someone help me with a catchy name). Basically, with an RGB led, you have the ability to control the color mix via the software. What this means is that once you can set the color values for each LED driver and it will use this mix for the font. Thus, each font can have a different color main LED, without out tearing apart the saber!
Without further ado, I give you color mode:
Cheers,
Naigon
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Ok, you got me, I'm convinced, if this ever comes out in a board for sabers it will be a total revolution! Great work my friend, great work!
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Now I can swith to the darkside without ripping apart my saber :) good luck on bringing this board to market.
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this thing is pretty awesome, gotta admit. good luck with the advancing of it
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Only real issue is that with a multi-die LED like an RGBA or something, each individual color won't be as bright as a 5 watt or whatever single color of the same color,
still a lot of potential though. Good work!
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drazhr most people will probly only need a blue or a red.. or a green or a blue etc dep on saber you want so you could use both red or blue dice it will be pretty bright
eg bb/gg or rr/bb but being able to use all the colours is just awesome
excellent feature i seriously am looking forward to this
it should also be able to have any colour foc
great work niagon were all behind you on this
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darthsteve, if you have found a supplier of rrgg or rrbb ledengin n10w, i'd love to know where you found them
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that was just an example.. do those colours not exist? my bad
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I don't want to say for certain that they don 't exist, but I have been unable to find them... I wanted a full powah yellow stunt saber, but I couldn't find rr/gg. I thought I read somewhere that novastar was trying to setup a run of custom ones though... I wonder how that turned out
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No, they do not exist and "custom runs" are not possible/feasible at this time ;).
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Keep up the GREAT work Naigon. I am happy to see that you are making progress on this project! :D
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OK, I will start off by saying I have not followed this thread too much. That being said, I applaud your initiative and your willingness to tackle this project. I saw your video this morning and I have some critiques I would like to offer. Most importantly - size. I know your breadboard setup is just a testing setup, but do you have any ideas how big the finished board will actually be? When I am asked to design a saber or run of sabers, paying attention to the internal space limitations is of upmost importance. With a lot of the designs I do, I rarely have anything larger than a 1" id bore to work with. A lot of times, I only have a very small section with 1" bore. Prime example, a current design I am doing has only 2.5" of 1" bore. The rest of the saber is less than 1" bore. When Erv quitely asked for opinions on CFV features, many of us asked if he could trim the width of the board down a little so it would easily fit inside a 1" bore. Length is not as important, but obviously, the shorter the better. A 1" wide board that is 8" long is not going to be a big help. There is no need to remind me that the MHS system has a 1.25" bore for most parts, or that a Graflex has nearly 1.4" id. But when you see as many designs as I do, getting the board to fit inside a 1" or smaller bore is very important if you want my business. Take it for want you want, it is only meant as constructive criticism, but I offer the suggestion that you really try and make your board fit inside a 1" or smaller bore.
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you mention no resistor purples...etc.. just edit the config file.
Are you adjusting/setting the PWM value for each die..is that your approach to it?
Im really curious about the 'SIZE' of the 4 die driver portion? is it all one board?
or is the driver portion a 'daughter/add-on' type board
Thanks
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OK, I will start off by saying I have not followed this thread too much. That being said, I applaud your initiative and your willingness to tackle this project. I saw your video this morning and I have some critiques I would like to offer. Most importantly - size. I know your breadboard setup is just a testing setup, but do you have any ideas how big the finished board will actually be? When I am asked to design a saber or run of sabers, paying attention to the internal space limitations is of upmost importance. With a lot of the designs I do, I rarely have anything larger than a 1" id bore to work with. A lot of times, I only have a very small section with 1" bore. Prime example, a current design I am doing has only 2.5" of 1" bore. The rest of the saber is less than 1" bore. When Erv quitely asked for opinions on CFV features, many of us asked if he could trim the width of the board down a little so it would easily fit inside a 1" bore. Length is not as important, but obviously, the shorter the better. A 1" wide board that is 8" long is not going to be a big help. There is no need to remind me that the MHS system has a 1.25" bore for most parts, or that a Graflex has nearly 1.4" id. But when you see as many designs as I do, getting the board to fit inside a 1" or smaller bore is very important if you want my business. Take it for want you want, it is only meant as constructive criticism, but I offer the suggestion that you really try and make your board fit inside a 1" or smaller bore.
i whole hartedly agree and i have to admit it crossed my mind when i saw the bread borard
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OK, I will start off by saying I have not followed this thread too much. That being said, I applaud your initiative and your willingness to tackle this project. I saw your video this morning and I have some critiques I would like to offer. Most importantly - size. I know your breadboard setup is just a testing setup, but do you have any ideas how big the finished board will actually be? When I am asked to design a saber or run of sabers, paying attention to the internal space limitations is of upmost importance. With a lot of the designs I do, I rarely have anything larger than a 1" id bore to work with. A lot of times, I only have a very small section with 1" bore. Prime example, a current design I am doing has only 2.5" of 1" bore. The rest of the saber is less than 1" bore. When Erv quitely asked for opinions on CFV features, many of us asked if he could trim the width of the board down a little so it would easily fit inside a 1" bore. Length is not as important, but obviously, the shorter the better. A 1" wide board that is 8" long is not going to be a big help. There is no need to remind me that the MHS system has a 1.25" bore for most parts, or that a Graflex has nearly 1.4" id. But when you see as many designs as I do, getting the board to fit inside a 1" or smaller bore is very important if you want my business. Take it for want you want, it is only meant as constructive criticism, but I offer the suggestion that you really try and make your board fit inside a 1" or smaller bore.
Thanks for the compliment! Yes, size is a big concern, and I definitely have not forgotten about it. I've been picking components that require minimal parts count and believe that right now the size should be comparable to the likes of the CF/PC. I do require a crystal (yes Igniter uses a crystal! for timing through...) which is a bit tall (7mm I believe), but I will try to design the board to be within 1" by 3". When I get the code done and to that stage I'll have a better idea though; this part of the project is completely new to me. Also, don't be thrown off by the large breadboard; I don't like cramped spaces and spread stuff out as much as I can to avoid connecting things incorrectly and blowing stuff up, though I've already wrecked two of my IC chips since I started. :(
you mention no resistor purples...etc.. just edit the config file.
Are you adjusting/setting the PWM value for each die..is that your approach to it?
Im really curious about the 'SIZE' of the 4 die driver portion? is it all one board?
or is the driver portion a 'daughter/add-on' type board
Thanks
For the first question to avoid going into a technical discussion and revealing my trade secrets, I will just say yes; I'm using a pulsing scheme for each die, where the strength is settable in the config.
And the second question is a good transition into the details I forgot to add. Currently, I'm thinking that the NPN driver for the color LEDs will be a do-it-yourself add-on that hooks onto the board; I'll provide the schematic that you can build. At a future time I will probably also make a true "daughter board" that consists of 2 or 3 LED drivers on their own board. Seeing the response to the comment above, I want to keep the main board as small as possible and figure for extremely tight builds you won't be able to utilize this feature, but for larger MHS/Graflex type builds you will.
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i believe at this stage of development size of any final board isnt a priority when compared to establishing and finalising the boards capabilities and functions , but im pretty sure that 25mm or 26mm will be target naigon would like to achieve as regards width.
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Thanks!..
that clears up alot for myself.
And kudos for you for working on a personal project. I always encourage and applaud the 'garage warriors' out there. (us hobby geeks)
thanks for sharing so far. =)
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wow i very impressed! im excited to see this board come to life. i applaud you on all your efforts. i know ill be in line waiting for this one. keep it up naigon as for the last post "garage warriors" i too belive the best things are invented or made by "garage warriors" just look at Apple (apple/mac owner since 1996, never owned any other operating system)
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i believe at this stage of development size of any final board isnt a priority when compared to establishing and finalising the boards capabilities and functions , but im pretty sure that 25mm or 26mm will be target naigon would like to achieve as regards width.
Ah, but see, there is a big difference in our world between 25mm and 26mm. 26mm will render it unusable in many applications ;). Therein lies the need for the discussion.
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Yes, and the final size is extremely important in knowing what components can fit on the board. It would be useless for most of us to have RGB color mixing capability if the main component for that was 1.2" wide. I just was not sure - I have not read every page of this thread yet - if a final size or estimated size had been mentioned. I just wanteed to toss in my 2 cents so to speak to give Naigon some food for thought as he progressed with his design.
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yeah thats right niagon, try and keep your board down to approximately 12mm x22mm x 4.5mm ...or less :D
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We can put a man on the moon...
but we can't even seem to make a complex computer that handles 2 watts to be the size of a Tic-Tac.
(Tongue in cheek)
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We can put a man on the moon...
but we can't even seem to make a complex computer that handles 2 watts to be the size of a Tic-Tac.
(Tongue in cheek)
2 watts wouldn't be enough for our sabers anymore though ;D
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Awesome job so far Niagon. I agree with everyone about keeping it around 1" x 3". A lot of use who make custom sabers don't have much room to work with for electronics. Keep up the great work.
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Oops..
I was typing/thining too fast... I meant 2 amps.
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I'll follow that thread with interest ;)
May I just ask if there's a limitation on the length of the hum sound file ?
keep up the good work
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Personally, not sure where 3" is coming from either. I'd like to see closer to 2". Keep in mind, the soundcard is not the only thing that needs to fit in the saber and, as for us personally, we make sabers, not baseball bats ;) :D.
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I'll follow that thread with interest ;)
May I just ask if there's a limitation on the length of the hum sound file ?
keep up the good work
Thanks for the interest Erv! Currently I haven't imposed any limit on the hum file, so its only limited by the file size limitations. I can't find this in the documentation right now, but I believe that it is in the neighborhood of 1GB so I don't expect that to be an issue. Of course if you have a hum this large you would want to make sure the uSD card has been de-fragged well so all the bytes are next to one another for speedy access. Also, there is a limitation on the uSD card size as well; I have 8gb working and believe higher will work, but I would recommend keeping it to 8gb or less, again for speed reasons.
EDIT: I found it in the documentation; all single files must be less than 2GB and the card must be 32GB or less. In other words, size isn't an issue :)
By that way, I have give you a huge kudos; you have set the bar insanely high in terms of robust features. It's definitely a great challenge to try and come up with something that is even on par much less better. Hats off.
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I like the idea of keeping the multi-colour drivers on a daughter board so the main board can be kept more compact for more flexibility with designs...that shows good forethought.
One thing I'm wondering about the multi-colours being set through software in the config files [if I understood that correctly?] is what will the config's colour value range be? Since I dream of true 64, 130, 109 RGB Viridian [someday] I just have to ask...will that be a 3/4x 0-255 RGB system?
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a bit of a thought... since LED drivers already exist, how about just having 1 or 2 on board with 4 PWM outputs for that sort of thing and an optional dual LED driver daughterboard?
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Sounds exciting.
i love how you are taking on board many suggestions from everyone.
Seems you are trying to please alot of people :)
good luck
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Seems you are trying to please alot of people :)
on that note... naigon, keep in mind that you can please everyone some of the time and some of the people all of the time, but you can't please everyone all of the time. eventually, you'll have to start trimming features back to get it to fit in a saber and get all the programming to fit on your chip of choice.
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you can please everyone some of the time and some of the people all of the time, but you can't please everyone all of the time.
my thoughts exactly.
not that i'm disappointed with how its all happening, i just hope you are not dreaming to big naigon.
It would be incredible if you manage everything you have set out to achieve.
I love your ideas and i wish you the best
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This weekend I made up for the slow progress last weekend. I have completed in one days time the highly requested "Saber Player". It turned out to be quite easy with the programming I already had.
Some specs:
- Saber Player is just another config setting, so any font can be a Saber Player font.
- Saber Player plays files named "trackNN.wav" where NN is from 01 to 99. (at least one, most 99).
- Once marked as "Saber Player", pushing the on button doesn't turn on the saber; instead it starts playing the first track.
- Aux button advances to next track; track is also advanced when current track is done playing.
- Push main button again to active saber lights and sounds; sounds for swing, clash, ect a mixed in as second font. Thus player plays music as hum and other effects load over top.
- Hold main button to turn off saber.
- Hold main button when playing but lights are not off to turn off saber play and gain ability to go to next font (1 sec press).
I had fun doing this, so glad everyone did request it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMfMx2fqmmM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMfMx2fqmmM)
Cheers,
Naigon
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Nice. That's an interesting way to set it up. I did have a question. Can the accent LEDs/bargraph be programmed to act as a sound-level meter when in SaberPlayer? If this was already answered, I apologize.
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There are plenty of free converters that can convert .mp3 to .wav and that means the soundboard maker doesnt have to pay Fraunhoffer any royalties to use the .mp3 codec
Onli-Wan pretty much nailed, I will not be adding mp3 support as its quite easy to convert mp3's to wav's nowdays for free. I've looked at the code a bit and I think adding a "SaberPlayer" (I'm going to quit using iSaber to prevent a knock on my door from Steve Jobs :)) mode wouldn't add much code, so its a possibility. However, the UV meter (leds blinking in sync with music) would require quite a bit more so its likely the led sequence will not be with the music but just the same ones you can use with the regular sound fonts. Its kind of a compromise that should make everyone happy enough.
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Personally, not sure where 3" is coming from either. I'd like to see closer to 2". Keep in mind, the soundcard is not the only thing that needs to fit in the saber and, as for us personally, we make sabers, not baseball bats ;) :D.
Hey wait... my first one is a baseball bat.
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There are plenty of free converters that can convert .mp3 to .wav and that means the soundboard maker doesnt have to pay Fraunhoffer any royalties to use the .mp3 codec
Onli-Wan pretty much nailed, I will not be adding mp3 support as its quite easy to convert mp3's to wav's nowdays for free. I've looked at the code a bit and I think adding a "SaberPlayer" (I'm going to quit using iSaber to prevent a knock on my door from Steve Jobs :)) mode wouldn't add much code, so its a possibility. However, the UV meter (leds blinking in sync with music) would require quite a bit more so its likely the led sequence will not be with the music but just the same ones you can use with the regular sound fonts. Its kind of a compromise that should make everyone happy enough.
Know it all :D.
J/K, I should have gone back and re-read. Thank you for quoting that :D.
Personally, not sure where 3" is coming from either. I'd like to see closer to 2". Keep in mind, the soundcard is not the only thing that needs to fit in the saber and, as for us personally, we make sabers, not baseball bats ;) :D.
Hey wait... my first one is a baseball bat.
Ummm...not sure what to say about that :D.
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I really love how the sound effects stay (minus the hum) when the music is played.
That was so cool hearing the song and then you pushed the button... BA ZOOM!
Very nice. Let's your imagination run wild :D
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just saw the vid.... i take it back what i said lol i want saber player
we will be able to replicate some awesome duels ... duel of the fates on full blast lol
awesome feature this is getting really exciting now
but will those tiny saber speakers be able to handle all the sounds?
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I just thought of a really sweet feature you could try... a saber alarm! not sure how to work it but to make it short and sweet an alarm if the saber is picked up with out doing something prior you could have it run off the motion sensing. i think it would be sweet you could have the alarm noise from the movies. It would keep kids grubby hands off it ;D i dunno just an idea, i know your plate is full but its worth a shot
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How would the saber know you've done something prior to it? Turned it on before picking it up? Pressing aux? ???
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Yeah that sounds like a cool idea too..
Like you have to push Aux three times or something when the alarm is set to disarm it...
I think some people would like this feature as a fun novelty :)
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exactly. or maybe a small kill key type thing that you would have to insert or something...
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Biometrics ;)
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i think that would likely lead to people dropping it on the floor... that's not something i would want to happen to any of my sabers, so i'm disagreeing with the inclusion of that feature.
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The alarm idea sounds like a gimmick to me. I could picture myself getting tired of that very fast...
To be honest I think it would make the saber feel less like a saber, and more like a toy.
But that is just my opinion :)
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Here's me and my engineers with my new saber hilt.
It's going to have ALL the features you don't have.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1008.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf202%2FSpaceWindu%2FBigsaber.jpg&hash=be64adb560a8689d92df4926efed474a1cdf4c1e)
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Here's me and my engineers with my new saber hilt.
It's going to have ALL the features you don't have.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1008.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf202%2FSpaceWindu%2FBigsaber.jpg&hash=be64adb560a8689d92df4926efed474a1cdf4c1e)
Freaking LOL
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I have to agree with Azmaria and Harpocolo the alarm idea is silly. If you want to keep it out of kids hands, there are simple devices out there known as a cabinets (or display cases) and a lock and key or use a combination lock - if you want to make it more of a challenge for all involved. ::)
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and to have your saber turn into an ipod isnt silly?? or how about to make your lightsaber sound like a chainsaw or something else isnt silly? i think that is the point sometimes its not like it couldnt be a feature that could be turned off.. im sure when erv started out somebody prob said you want to make a sound board for a toy lightsaber that is silly and look were that went. im holding my ground that some sort of security feature is sweet. and btw my kids are ninjas and steal things from me with out me or my wife noticing, especially my lightsabers. kids are very jedi
or better yet how about we wire a tazer into the hilt so i can watch my friends or my kids drop to the floor and do the kicken chicken cause they touched my saber (joking) now that would be a silly or dumb feature. (unsafe too)
point is the world is full of stupid or silly features which leads me to belive that people must buy things with stupid features.. its all in preference i guess. like i said i think making your saber turn into an ipod is stupid or silly to me
rant done over and out
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I actually like the alarm idea.
More than once, ive had the feeling my wife touches my sacred sabers,she blames little elves.
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I just thought of a really sweet feature you could try... a saber alarm! not sure how to work it but to make it short and sweet an alarm if the saber is picked up with out doing something prior you could have it run off the motion sensing. i think it would be sweet you could have the alarm noise from the movies. It would keep kids grubby hands off it ;D i dunno just an idea, i know your plate is full but its worth a shot
It's a lightsaber. Remove hands Anakin/Dooku ROTS style.
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Nice. That's an interesting way to set it up. I did have a question. Can the accent LEDs/bargraph be programmed to act as a sound-level meter when in SaberPlayer? If this was already answered, I apologize.
As quoted I do not a true UV meter for the accents; it would have required too much refactoring and I'm plain running out of space for more code. However, you could set up the Bar Graph mode to bounce up and down similar to a UV meter as your "Hum" pattern so that it would look as if were dancing to the beat. Of course, this assumes that all your tunes would be about the same BPM (beats per minute); if you set it up for Duel of the Fates and then played a slow ballad it probably wouldn't look perfect. :)
just saw the vid.... i take it back what i said lol i want saber player
we will be able to replicate some awesome duels ... duel of the fates on full blast lol
awesome feature this is getting really exciting now
but will those tiny saber speakers be able to handle all the sounds?
Haha, I'm exactly with you! I thought the idea seemed super silly, but once I realized I could easily turn the music into the hum and still keep the other sounds I was sold. It really didn't take much coding space, and was very simple (1 day of coding).
Also, some people were saying that this feature would be more exciting for those who don't know about Star Wars. I decided to run a little experiment to see if this was true; I showed my wife all the features and gauged her reactions. It turns out her favorites are TruColor (multiple color LEDs) and SaberPlayer; she didn't care that the lights weren't as bright and just loved seeing "pretty" colors, and thought that music with the sound and lights was exciting and fun. So I guess these features were worthwhile after all.
On a final note I am closing on features today; since I didn't give fair warning I'll leave it open until 11:59PM PDT, but at this point I do not plan on adding anymore features (except swing sensing of course, I'm currently working on that one). I want to close out coding by the end of the month so I can lock down the hardware and software to start preparing for prototype runs.
Cheers,
Naigon
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the video is awesome, i soooo want a saber with Igniter and duel with the Imperial march on the background.
So how long will it take you to finish this project?
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This seems like its going to be epic!
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I just spent the last hour reading up on your project and it is very impressive so far,i hope everthing works out and wish you the best of luck.
The more choices for sound for our sabers will be welcomed by all i'm sure. :)
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scrap the alarm idea.
it would require the saber to be on as in no kill key inserted. unless you had a second power source just for the alarm.
not worth the hassle in IMO
make it a lightsaber first, then we can think about extras.
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I'm glad to see so much innovation. The force is strong with you. :)
I hope this manages to hit production run. If it does, this would be a strong rival to CF boards, which are the only boards even close to capable of doing what they do. Nothing against Erv or PlecterLabs, I love the Crystal Focus, but when it comes down to it, it's a bit... shall we say frustrating... to have there be only one highly capable soundboard available (and rarely so) to the general public. There's such a huge gap. It'd be awesome for it to close. May the Force be with you.
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Here it is, the highly controversial and much anticipated swing sensing! Being the non-conformist and innovator that I like to be, I decided to use neither an accelerometer non the ball bearing sensors; I actually used a different sensor that gives similar results to an accelerometer, but probably not quite as good. Its a huge improvement over the bearing sensors though, as it provides intensity readings.
Igniter will allow two swings, swing and slash, the former being when the swing is low and the latter when the swing is hard/fast. The threshold is configurable for each of these in the config from 0-255 so you can get the sensitivity how you like.
Hope you enjoy :)
-Naigon
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i like how you went a different route and got that new swing senor. I am glad to see this coming along as fast as you want it to. I know there are people how are like "I want is now so hurry up", but hey, I am fine with the time you are taking to make it. Keep it up man can't wait to see what the board will look like when you are done.
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Excellent work. :)
The blaster sounds (when the blast-swing mode is on) seem to have a delay of sorts?
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The multiple blaster block feature is a nice touch. I have experienced it myself nearly dropping my saber because I was too busy trying to push the blaster block button while messing around.
The swing sensitivity option is another great feature which I can see having huge potential given the right sound font mixes. The swing sensor has great potential, as does this board. I look forward to the finished product and hope to have an igniter sound board installed on one of my sabers one of these days.
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The multiple blaster block feature is a nice touch. I have experienced it myself nearly dropping my saber because I was too busy trying to push the blaster block button while messing around.
QFT. I'm wondering where I've heard about that "blaster move" (tm) feature ::)
so, Naigon,
sounds like you're using an ITG-3200 gyroscope for the motion sensing, aren't you ?
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The multiple blaster block feature is a nice touch. I have experienced it myself nearly dropping my saber because I was too busy trying to push the blaster block button while messing around.
QFT. I'm wondering where I've heard about that "blaster move" (tm) feature ::)
Sounds like a V5 feature... I could be wrong though.
What is this gyroscope of which you speak?
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What is this gyroscope of which you speak?
component z apparently
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The multiple blaster block feature is a nice touch. I have experienced it myself nearly dropping my saber because I was too busy trying to push the blaster block button while messing around.
QFT. I'm wondering where I've heard about that "blaster move" (tm) feature ::)
so, Naigon,
sounds like you're using an ITG-3200 gyroscope for the motion sensing, aren't you ?
Let's hope that revealing the identity of the Frosties secret ingredient like that doesn't result in a sudden rush to the patent office. It'd be tragic if all Naigon's hard work resulted in a repeat of the accelerometer debacle.
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what ever component Z is ? it could work, there does seem to be a slight delay triggering sound but this is work in progress so lets wait to see the first prototype board... your right D INFERIS i hope the patent office isnt swamped with IDIOTS claiming exclusive use of component Z .... ive said this before butmaking a single board.. is a far cry from even small...say 200 board. ... production runs,as far as i know niagon as not said he will be producing the board for sale but IF he decided to there wont be a lack of support . a final thought , personaly speaking the more people producing saber sound boards the better, competition would be a very good thing for this hobby as it usually forces everyone to improve their own product which could mean greater innovation and availability ,, lets see 8)
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yeah i was waiting for someone to make a board with a gyroscope sensor. ^_^ good luck.
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I sure hope that isn't the component that he is using. There is most likely a reason why he wanted it to remain unnamed for the time being. If it is the component, I don't think stating it outright before he was able to officially formulate everything together was the most correct thing to have been done. :-\
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I think you are all over reacting a bit. There really is no need for any secrecy regarding components other than personal preference. If something violates someone's IP it does so if it is revealed now or later. There is no indication that that is the case here, just sayin'. Discussion of his project should only be viewed as a positive thing as others have gone before him and do know what they are talking about ;). Through open discussion he might be able to pick up a few pointers, and rather than repeating failures of the past he can learn from others' failures and triumphs, no?
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I agree, but coming from someone who had his own IP stolen back in 2001 when "innocently speaking on a forum seeking advice and input from other more experienced people", it immediately threw a red flag to me, that's all.
I figured any particulars would be better spoken between the experts behind closed doors, if they wanted to compare notes and whatnot about past trials, successes, and failures.
BTW, my IP was on a reputable site at that time, Rich Dad Poor Dad, where it felt like it was a community built upon assisting others. Kind of like here.
There are always sharks in the waters, as I learned the hard way. :-\
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love the blaster block set up, 1 press of the button then you get blaster blocks with gestures.. very nice indeed,
i wish you all the luck in the world on this if everything goes to plan we should have an awesome sound board right ther
cant wait to see the prototype inside a saber
were gonna need some unmixed sound fonts guys
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i would be glad to help if an unmixed soundfont is needed ;), this is indeed a very interesting project, somthing extraordinary must come out of this
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I agree, but coming from someone who had his own IP stolen back in 2001 when "innocently speaking on a forum seeking advice and input from other more experienced people", it immediately threw a red flag to me, that's all.
I figured any particulars would be better spoken between the experts behind closed doors, if they wanted to compare notes and whatnot about past trials, successes, and failures.
BTW, my IP was on a reputable site at that time, Rich Dad Poor Dad, where it felt like it was a community built upon assisting others. Kind of like here.
There are always sharks in the waters, as I learned the hard way. :-\
Frankly, if the board is going to be discussed in a thread and videos are shown and discussed, then it only follows that there will be some people who can identify its components here on the forums. Naigon has chosen to discuss it publicly and share his work, so at this point there will inevitably be discussion on the pros and cons of his methods and criticism or kudos for his advances. Sort of the point of having a thread.
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Excuse me for stating my OPINION and concern for protecting his idea. ::)
I thought it was a GOOD thing for some of us to look out for a fellow board member to ensure he's getting his fair due.
Wow ...
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Excuse me for stating my OPINION and concern for protecting his idea. ::)
I thought it was a GOOD thing for some of us to look out for a fellow board member to ensure he's getting his fair due.
Wow ...
I can understand your concern but its not a new technology and the info is out there for anyone that is wanting to do something similar (those that do this kind of stuff already know about them). Heck its not even a new idea for sound boards. Novaconceptions is using a gyroscope on his newest board as well and that info has been out since last year...though we haven't seen any kind of progress vids like naigons (or anything really lol).
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well, leaving .. component Z .. aside im pretty sure that we are all greatly bursting at the seams waiting to see niagons prototype board and how it performs in comparison to the CF sound board ? then will niagon go into any sort of LTD production run ? any ideas of numbers ? any ideas of price ?...i still feel that this project is a LONG way of completion but as ERV will probably testify niagon really wont like to hand solder board after board so many questions for niagon to address.there are...it seems obvious to me that this sound board will work pretty good or even better so my own personal interest as now moved toniagon plans after completion ,..if any.
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Rant--------
(feel free to skip)
From what i understand about Copyright options, for inventions, one only needs to show an improvement on an old invention to get a new copyright worked out. Copyrighting ideas, that have a basis for an invention can be sidestepped if an inventor shows a viable improvement over the original design/work. Plus in order for an idea to be copyrighted the inventor has to show viable proof that the design would work.
For proof of this, look at the automobile industry. No one can file a patent for the idea of a gasoline, or solar, power car and keep other people from making them, because the idea cannot be patented, only the physical invention.
So if someone found a better way to use a gyroscope based board or even 'gasp!' an accelerometer they could still apply for the invention patent of a sound based module to be used in electronical toys, as long as their design showed an improvement over the original invetors concept.
End Rant
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Good luck on bringing your invention to market, and Darth Raijlin thank you for looking out for the interests of a fellow saber enthuisiast. I can understand where you are coming from, but if someone really wanted to steal his idea he would be protected by the very vidoes he has shown showing what he has done so far, when it came to time/date that his invention was originated.
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Honestly, my friend, this has been discussed many times before. No need for the rant. It just isn't that simple, unfortunately.
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Good luck on bringing your invention to market, and Darth Raijlin thank you for looking out for the interests of a fellow saber enthuisiast. I can understand where you are coming from, but if someone really wanted to steal his idea he would be protected by the very vidoes he has shown showing what he has done so far, when it came to time/date that his invention was originated.
FYI, the "poor man's copyright" doesn't exist anymore. it is not recognized legally. It doesn't matter if the video's have date stamps on them. Trust me, I've been throught this with music already. The old "mail yourself a copy of it in a certified letter trick" will not hold up in court.
I thought I'd just throw that out there.
Keep up the good work, Naigon.
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Thanks for the responses everyone, glad everyone is excited about all the progress.
@Darth Raijlin, thank you for your concern. I see that from you comments you are sincerely concerned about my work, which is one of the biggest compliments there is, so thank you :)
Before I started posting on this forum I heavily weighed the benefits / cons of posting early/often vs. waiting until I had it pretty much done. I chose to post (as you can tell) for the following reasons:
1. I love Star Wars, light sabers, and all things Jedi. I was so excited when creating the board I had to share it with others who feel the same way.
2. I have a day job that I'm doing quite fine at and am not building this as a way to make hoards of money, though my motivations aren't 100% unselfish either. I definitely want to do something big in my life, where I can say I made a difference for people. When I saw the Ultrasound gone and with no PC for consumers (when I started), I felt God had given me that chance here. If I make some extra money in the progress that's great; my wifey could always use a new pair of shoes or two ;D
3. I decided early on that any intellectual property (IP) of this project wouldn't be hardware but would actually be code. When the project is done I will reveal all components used but I will not share any of the code used (besides the same samples that helped get me started). I have no qualms about someone else trying to out due me using the same components I did so long as they did the research and code themselves. Competition is what brings the hobby forward and what forces everyone to do their best work.
And to steal a phrase, "That's all I have to say about that".
well, leaving .. component Z .. aside im pretty sure that we are all greatly bursting at the seams waiting to see niagons prototype board and how it performs in comparison to the CF sound board ? then will niagon go into any sort of LTD production run ? any ideas of numbers ? any ideas of price ?...i still feel that this project is a LONG way of completion but as ERV will probably testify niagon really wont like to hand solder board after board so many questions for niagon to address.there are...it seems obvious to me that this sound board will work pretty good or even better so my own personal interest as now moved toniagon plans after completion ,..if any.
You and me both my friend! You don't know how sick I am of lugging that huge breadboard out every day just to do a little testing. I want to swing it around!!!
As far production runs, numbers, price and board size I do not have anything definitive there, so I can't say. But, once I'm sure of anything I will keep the thread up to date.
Thanks everyone for sharing my dream!
Cheers,
Naigon
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;)
I guess I've been wondering of this cool soundboard of yours the final price tag.I know whatever the price is;it,will be well worth it. ;)
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;)
I guess I've been wondering of this cool soundboard of yours the final price tag.I know whatever the price is;it,will be well worth it. ;)
(https://images.hollywood.com/site/drevil.jpg)
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I hear you Nartules. And I agree with what Darth Xusia said about the "poor man's copyright".
I ran into that very issue in 2001. I spoke with a local patent/copyright attorney at that time in York, PA asking him that very question. Whether my postings, since they were time stamped, would provide legal grounds and proof that the idea originated with me.
Unfortunately, being young and more naive than I would have liked back then in the industry, and making the faulty assumption that people on the Robert Kiyosoki's Rich Dad/Poor Dad site were upstanding people, I unfortunately went into too much detail about my invention seeking that sage advice and looking for guidance as to best pursue the needed protection.
I've learned my lesson the hard way because approximately six months later, the product of which I designed was being sold on a brand new web site. LOL ....
Ah well. Live and learn.
Anyways, my attorney told me that the Information Age had really thrown a monkey wrench into the legislature. Especially toward patents, copyrights, squatters rights, etc. etc. etc.
As most people know, the law takes many years at times to catch up to reality. Many times, it takes something MAJOR to hit the courts before they update things. Legal matters are usually Reactive, not Proactive. LOL ...
Anyways, because of the ambiguity involving posting on forums, it would not qualify toward any sort of protection. (Unlike the Yoquiero Taco Bell Dog originators, who successfully sued Taco Bell for an untold fortune. Notice, soon after, there was no longer any Yoquiero. LOL)
I am glad you saw my intentions, as I was just overly concerned. Yes, I know if people are "in the industry" that they might be able to have a good idea just by looking at a part. Heck, they may be able to tell the exact part. I just thought it in bad taste and my warning flags went up because I would hate to see the hard work of this guy get hammered unjustly.
Like you guys said ... the slap donkeys over at NC have a CONCEPT similar to this, but have provided nothing to date as far as evidence.
Again, I meant no disrespect to anyone ... Erv or anyone else. I just thought it might be something that could be talked about between the professionals of Integrity behind closed doors. LOL ...
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Just a quick holiday update: I went with a new audio amp that provides a bit more power since the previous one I went with had a couple features I didn't think would work well for a production version. The new amp sounds great and provides a small but noticeable increase (its delivering closer to 1.5W instead of 1.1 @7.4 volts). I've also got a fix for the fuzzy audio when the LED is pulsing, but it requires another component with a footprint of about 9x9mm, so more valuable board space will be used. I still think .9"x2.5" is quite possible though.
Happy Memorial Day everyone!
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Just a quick holiday update: I went with a new audio amp that provides a bit more power since the previous one I went with had a couple features I didn't think would work well for a production version. The new amp sounds great and provides a small but noticeable increase (its delivering closer to 1.5W instead of 1.1 @7.4 volts). I've also got a fix for the fuzzy audio when the LED is pulsing, but it requires another component with a footprint of about 9x9mm, so more valuable board space will be used. I still think .9"x2.5" is quite possible though.
Happy Memorial Day everyone!
excellent news naigon.
thanks for the update.
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I have to say the hard swing sounded more like a clash... Any way to differentiate coming in the future?
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I have to say the hard swing sounded more like a clash... Any way to differentiate coming in the future?
This is why I've been asking for folks to start making sound fonts that are unmixed, I'm a programmer, not a sound effects engineer :)
The hard swing is a sound I grabbed from a light saber brushing against metal, so it has that metallic crashing sound. If you used a sound how I envisioned which would be a more intense swing it would work better. I would like to fix this sound font sometime but for now it will be left as is for a proof of concept.
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The hard swing sound is going to make a lot of room for new sound fonts, as well as breath new life into cf fonts...whoever takes up that task though...is going to have a lot of work cut out for them.
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This is why I've been asking for folks to start making sound fonts that are unmixed, I'm a programmer, not a sound effects engineer :)
naigon,
I just thought I would let you know that I am in the process of making a (unmixed) luke v2 sound fount for the Igniter. (hum, clashes and lockup are finished, working on swings, on, off and blaster blocks) I will send you a pm when it is done. ;)
I am also making a unmixed Vader sound fount for the Igniter ( hum, blaster blocks, lockup, on, off,and swings are finished and I am almost done with clashes. :)
General Kota
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Can I get a link to where i can read about why an accelerometer is not a good idea. No offense, just curious to know. ::)
If an accelerometer is out and you plan on X,Y,Z sensors then what about a three axis gyro. That would be very precis, but may be more expensive ($40+) :o
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Can I get a link to where i can read about why an accelerometer is not a good idea. No offense, just curious to know. ::)
bottom of page four of this thread.
Search 6150947.
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Can I get a link to where i can read about why an accelerometer is not a good idea. No offense, just curious to know. ::)
If an accelerometer is out and you plan on X,Y,Z sensors then what about a three axis gyro. That would be very precis, but may be more expensive ($40+) :o
Please watch video number 8, I've already found a suitable replacement for the acc:
-Naigon
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i get goosebumps every time i see a vid of the igniter.
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8) I Totally would Like to See the Finished Results of the Igniter 8)
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Wow, that is awesome! Can't wait to see the final product! I for sure will be interested in getting one for one of my customs.
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Cant wait to see this ready to sell!
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Definitely sounding like a gem in your bag here bud! Lookin forward to when you're at the prototyping/testing stages and we see how this works in a saber!
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Cleaned it up a bit.
Let's stay on target? please?
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naigon,
any new updates on the Igniter ?
also, up date on my luke v2 sound fount and I added a Darth Vader sound fount to the list (almost done) :)
naigon,
I just thought I would let you know that I am in the process of making a (unmixed) luke v2 sound fount for the Igniter. (hum, clashes and lockup are finished, working on swings, on, off and blaster blocks) I will send you a pm when it is done. Wink
I am also making a unmixed Vader sound fount for the Igniter ( hum, blaster blocks, lockup, on, off,and swings are finished and I am almost done with clashes. :)
General Kota
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naigon,
any new updates on the Igniter ?
also, up date on my luke v2 sound fount and I added a Darth Vader sound fount to the list (almost done) :)
naigon,
I just thought I would let you know that I am in the process of making a (unmixed) luke v2 sound fount for the Igniter. (hum, clashes and lockup are finished, working on swings, on, off and blaster blocks) I will send you a pm when it is done. Wink
I am also making a unmixed Vader sound fount for the Igniter ( hum, blaster blocks, lockup, on, off,and swings are finished and I am almost done with clashes. :)
General Kota
"Excellent...Everything is going as planned!" lol!
Actually, as I mentioned I'm really getting more into the business side of things now which isn't as easy for me; as you can probably tell from my videos I'm a computer geek, not a businessman. But I should have some good updates very soon, you'll just have to wait a bit more for those updates.
Also, thanks again for working on fonts!!! I just don't have the time to do that right now, so others helping out is really great.
Thanks for the interest everyone, you'll be hearing more soon!
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Hello everyone,
I am finished with my Darth Vader sound font and here is a demo/teaser .
(This teaser is not mixed to work with the Igniter and is missing 2 swings and clashes.) Please support the official release.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi787.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy159%2Fcf-18%2Fth_DarthVadersoundfont.jpg&hash=1cc44d32c6f8218d878db01fcf6e5ebb837283a7) (http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/cf-18/?action=view¤t=DarthVadersoundfont.mp4)
Please post what you thank.
Thanks
General Kota
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pretty good. What did you use for mixing the demo file ?
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Just shows I don't spend enough time here cos I just caught wind of this!
A very impressive looking bit of kit. I know price will be a big thing but the main thing has to be availability, any info of how prolific they will be?
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pretty good. What did you use for mixing the demo file ?
I was using your saber sound mixer for the teaser lol.
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I just got back from vacation and found this awesome font, thanks General Kota!
When I get my new environment hooked up, I'll load them on Igniter and test them out,, adding any needed compression and eq specific for my DAC. Once done I'll give these back to General Kota for public distribution!
More updates are coming folks, just hang in there another week or two until I get caught back up from vacation mode.
Cheers,
Naigon
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Enjoy ;D
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Looking good. Topic merged however. One thread per topic please ;).
How do you currently have electronics in the hilt? Do you have an actual pcb yet, or is it your components on a proto pcb? Asking because that hilt looks very oversized. What are the target dimensions for the board?
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Any specs on the board you fit into that saber?
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looking good the motion sounds appears very accurate
but man that hilt is massive as is the blade what sort of saber and blade is that? and what led is it running it looks very bright
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I wasn't going to reply till tomorrow, but want to clear a couple things up...
I don't know how you can say it is massive, it is just over 11", and is less than 1.4" in diameter. I don't have the outer cover on (sink tube) so just the inner pipe is exposed; maybe because its so skinny it just looks long and makes the blade look big.
Patience and your answers will come.
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Just an observation. On the video it appears much wider than 1.4". However, cameras can often be deceiving which is why I asked. Obviously, pcb form factor is very important to those of us who build prolifically :D.
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I think the massive was more in reference to the width than the length naigon. Just my thoughts on the matter, it looks quite thick, but since all the shots are dark, we can't really offer any GOOD comment other than what the eye shows us, and how good your camera is.
Maybe a few photos of the hilt would be in order?
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Thats a very long board :P I look forward to seeing what you manage to reduce it to!
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Thats a very long board :P I look forward to seeing what you manage to reduce it to!
The hilt is just over 11" by 1.4" diameter; the pcb board is 2.5" by .93" by... well the width of the board and clash sensor (Tim's), which is quite small. I believe those dimensions are smaller than the PC or at least equivalent. I think the camera tricks it due to the skinny-ness and my small puny fingers (if you don't believe me look at my guitar videos).
And yes it is darn accurate, as the video showed. I'm also surprised that no one caught the aux flash as well.
Edit: I just rewatched the video, its my darn puny fingers!! If you look closely I've choked up on the hilt to prevent touching the exposed electronics. I guess I should have completed that cover before making the video :P
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The PC is only around 2" long and just under 1" wide.
Nice guitar work :).
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Impressive Video buddy.
That saber looked very bright.
I think we will have more soundboards to choose from in the near future.
That's fantastic.
This way we don't have to wait for over a year, to have a saber ready, when we want the good stuff in it.
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Welllll we don't have to wait a year for PC its available anytime and it is pretty good stuff imo...but I think I know which you were referring to lol
...but this board certainly has some interesting features [loving the background music - mixed in real time eh! Niiiiiice!!] and I very much look forward to trying one of these when they are ready.
As someone who prefers short sabers I do have some shoto designs where the extra .5" could have been prohibitive but I suspect in most full size saber designs it won't make too much difference.
...and having another high quality soundboard that plays music will indeed be fantastic imo [my other forums are music ones].
Well Done!
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when i said it was massive i ment the width it looks like the blade is 2" or so on camera im assuming thats the camera tho??
any chance of an indepth look at the saber with igniter inside and an expanation of its features and specs etc
also have you tested it dueling? can it take a battering?
without mentioning any names i once had a saber with a certain sound board inside and when you hit it it sometimes rebooted itself or froze up
have you had any problems like that with igniter?
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Excellent video naigon! You definitely got my attention on igniter. ;D
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Thanks everyone for the response, it has been a total thrill for me the past weeks to get this thing in a hilt where it belongs.
Welllll we don't have to wait a year for PC its available anytime and it is pretty good stuff imo...but I think I know which you were referring to lol
...but this board certainly has some interesting features [loving the background music - mixed in real time eh! Niiiiiice!!] and I very much look forward to trying one of these when they are ready.
As someone who prefers short sabers I do have some shoto designs where the extra .5" could have been prohibitive but I suspect in most full size saber designs it won't make too much difference.
...and having another high quality soundboard that plays music will indeed be fantastic imo [my other forums are music ones].
Well Done!
Yes, I took a trade off for length vs. height and width. Since the tallest component is the clash sensor and that is directly down the middle of the board length wise, there should be less problems than getting it in tight diameters than other boards. However if you have a Yoda length hilt where length is the bottle neck this might not be the best. I decided after seeing Sunrider's awesome cram-fu with Parxis that the former was much more important to tackle:)
when i said it was massive i ment the width it looks like the blade is 2" or so on camera im assuming thats the camera tho??
any chance of an indepth look at the saber with igniter inside and an expanation of its features and specs etc
also have you tested it dueling? can it take a battering?
without mentioning any names i once had a saber with a certain sound board inside and when you hit it it sometimes rebooted itself or froze up
have you had any problems like that with igniter?
The blade is a thin-walled trans-white with 6 wraps and sanded heavily on the outside with 320 wet. I guess my not great camera picks that up as light going to the outside, which is a good thing but is a lot different that the TCSS show blades I've done before.
The hilt I have constructed was made with one design in mind: easy access to the sound board to re-program bug fixes and then test the code. Due to this I didn't really design it for intense dueling. However, I've smacked it on stuff quite a bit (including accidentally hitting the shelf in the video) and no issues have been present thus far, at least in that sense.
And yes, I definitely plan on doing a completely in depth review of the hilt after I make the cover lol! Actually, I have another Igniter(tm) pcb on the bench right now with a different audio filter that I need to test, and I need to replace one of the color transistors in the hilt so that red works correctly again. So probably not till next week. Note that I did call this video a "teaser" with exactly this intent; get people interested and talking in suspense before I finally release the details ;D
Cheers,
Naigon
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Well you teased me :D so it worked.
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Since I teased everyone with my previous video I guess now its time to start with the reveals. Part 1 will focus on the hardware including Igniter(tm) itsself and everything I did to build and get it in my saber. Part 2 will be the fun watch me swing it around part.
Without further ado, allow me to introduce you to Igniter(tm):
Some key points of interest:
- As mentioned, Igniter(tm) is 2.5" length by .93" height by approx. .2" height.
- Igniter(tm) comes equipped with one main LED driver and one fast switch onboard for LED and multi-die (flash) clash respectively.
- Standard .1" solder tabs are used for all connections.
- Hilt was constructed to be run "naked"; all electronics can be exposed without unplugging anything.
- Not mentioned in the video, but the LEDs and two NPN transistors required for the color Leds are on a radio shack circuit board under the main PCB.
Enjoy ;D
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That is EPIC. I cant wait till you release this.. and if ANY beta slots are open, i'd love to apply.
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Very exciting ;D Nice follow up to the teaser!
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Since I teased everyone with my previous video I guess now its time to start with the reveals. Part 1 will focus on the hardware including Igniter(tm) itsself and everything I did to build and get it in my saber. Part 2 will be the fun watch me swing it around part.
Without further ado, allow me to introduce you to Igniter(tm):
Some key points of interest:
- As mentioned, Igniter(tm) is 2.5" length by .93" height by approx. .2" height.
- Igniter(tm) comes equipped with one main LED driver and one fast switch onboard for LED and multi-die (flash) clash respectively.
- Standard .1" solder tabs are used for all connections.
- Hilt was constructed to be run "naked"; all electronics can be exposed without unplugging anything.
- Not mentioned in the video, but the LEDs and two NPN transistors required for the color Leds are on a radio shack circuit board under the main PCB.
Enjoy ;D
Are the NPN transistors gonna be required on the final product?
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WOW you've constructed yourself a very easy to handle workstation lightsaber.
Very clever man.
This makes it very easy to improve your soundboard.
The way you can cover the hilt with that tube, so you can test the soundboard, how it would work in a completed lightsaber for a longer period if needed.
This will give us an approved, descent, durable soundboard when it's finisdhed.
I'm impressed.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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the board looks VERY professional and well made ... i would imagine that many people on this site , like me, are staggered by the speed of your progress . infact its almost too fast, i hope that you will allow yourself the time you need to refine this board as far as possible and test it for faults and bugs...please dont get the idea im critical , i very much wish you every success ..MORE VIDS AND INFORMATION PLEASE ___
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great progress i like the board its very slim.. well done
looking forward to the next vid
what sort of bugs are you getting from testing?... if any
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Further testing, if I understand correctly, will be underway by middle of this month by various select testers, at which time I'm sure if there's bugs or oddities they will be revealed to Naigon for his consideration.
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Thanks for the responses. I'm glad everyone is as happy with this thing as I am. I brought it in to work yesterday and my co-workers loved it; a lot of smiles and laughing, but amazement too.
Are the NPN transistors gonna be required on the final product?
Yes and no. They are required right now as you need something that can handle the power of the LED. However, before I release I will create a daughter board that has two more LED drivers that you can use to do the color mode. It will be able to be used for those who want the extra battery life and don't want to solder up something themselves. I won't mention any more about this until its finalized though.
WOW you've constructed yourself a very easy to handle workstation lightsaber.
Very clever man.
This makes it very easy to improve your soundboard.
The way you can cover the hilt with that tube, so you can test the soundboard, how it would work in a completed lightsaber for a longer period if needed.
This will give us an approved, descent, durable soundboard when it's finished.
I'm impressed.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Thanks man! I really appreciate the compliments. This is the first time I ever tried something so complicated for the interior, and it turned out perfect; well except that I machined one of the two holes for the sitches slightly big and it pops down every now and then :( But it definitely does its purpose and it really makes code updates and config changes a snap. Special thanks to Madcow; his Corran Horn build inspired me to make this type of interior.
great progress i like the board its very slim.. well done
looking forward to the next vid
what sort of bugs are you getting from testing?... if any
Well, I'm not superhuman so I'm obviously getting some bugs. Most were related to noise in the audio and all have been addressed in my latest build (one in the video). That work I did with the breadboard really helped to eliminate major issues early though, so I'm glad for that. But I have to say now after having the pcb in my hand I can never go back to that hideous monstrosity, LOL!
Further testing, if I understand correctly, will be underway by middle of this month by various select testers, at which time I'm sure if there's bugs or oddities they will be revealed to Naigon for his consideration.
This is correct; I have contacted a select few people to receive an Igniter(tm) pre-release board for some extensive testing and feedback. These folks will also be providing some pics and videos of the installs, so be on the lookout for those in the coming weeks.
I wonder how you know about the testing Gil?... ;D
Thank you everyone for the continued support!
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Im very impressed and am looking forward to what the testers think. If all goes well, I would love to have one! or two or three lol.
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awesome yeah very very interested to see what the tester have to say
Exciting!!!! 8)
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Here is Reveal video pt2, me swinging it around as I have been for the past couple weeks!
Key points
- Igniter(tm) supports TruColortm and Multi-die clash to allow realistic colors for all effects.
- EzLockup allows you to realistically get into a lockup after you have done a clash with someone.
- Swings are configurable for both hardness settings and length between two successive swings.
- For the latter, lower values make for great spinning effects, while higher values are good for epic duels.
- Each font can have completely separate settings for lights, sounds, switch settings, swing sensitivity and multi-die clash, making a 9-in-1 Sabertm possible.
For those interested, here is the new LED I tested out. It isn't quite as bright as a LEDEngin, but is much easier to solder and is less than half the price so definitely worth checking out. Special thanks to Gil Gamesh for the donation used to fund LED testing :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-9W-RGB-High-Power-LED-3W-each-color-6-pins-/250779770678?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a63a39f36
This auction is for two; one cost $9 with free shipping.
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Your progress is pretty impressive. The lock on clash feature is a great idea. Looks and sounds great!
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Man this board is increddible.
The fact that you can have differend settings for LED light or color, or the sensetivity of the saber, for each mode.
That's really impressive.
Also the demo mode is so clever, because the sabereffects are still working.
You can now use you saber with your music choise of the moment on the background.
Now the Demo-Mode is also usefull. while dualling with somebody, for extra drama.
I'm SOOO impressed.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
The sensitivity of the saber was in this video on hard dualling?
It can be set more sensitive?
My Graflex is set much more sensitive, because a saber like that is not made for hard-dualling.
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OMG im always impressed with yur demos, you always seem to find something fresh to add to the board.
I love the fact that you can have different colors, and what can i say about the music as background.
Extremely AWESOME. :o :o :o :o
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this board as become a seriously serious piece of hardware , it looks greatas a prototype and as some very nice original features which will appeal to MANY saber fans , i might be jumping the gun but it looks like erv as a worthy competitor . EXCELLANT.
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The sensitivity of the saber was in this video on hard dualling?
It can be set more sensitive?
My Graflex is set much more sensitive, because a saber like that is not made for hard-dualling.
Let me clarify a bit since I kind of stuttered in the video and wasn't completely clear. There are three config settings related to swing sensitivity in the config:
swingThreshold=[0-255] (number)
slashThreshold=[0-255] (number)
swingWaitLen=[100-1000] (milliseconds)
The first two tell how hard you have to swing it before a sound is made for a swing or a slash. Remember that Igniter(tm) supports two levels of swings, and this hardness is used to differentiate between these two. Lower values makes a swing trigger from slight movements; higher values means a good swing is required before it will trigger. The swingWaitLen is used to determine how long to wait before doing another swing once one was already performed. Lower values will cause a nice sound for spinning, but will potentially cause two (or more) swing sounds per one swing, if that makes sense.
In the video, the first font (my Luke ROTJ) was set with 80, 120, 500 respectively, whereas my second font (Maul) was set to 60, 120, 300, the main difference being the swingWaitLen causing a lot more swing sounds for a spin. So yes, you can set your swingWaitLen and swingThreshold to low values to cause a lot of swing sounds to trigger from little swinging.
Thanks again everyone for the continued support!
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Fantastic work! I've had a break from sabers for awhile, so to come back and see Igniter and Hiltworks in the pipeline, the new (to me) availability of PC-U and Obsidian and Erv beavering away to make the CF more available and to bring us the CF-LS are all epic and grin-inducing - thanks, support and respect to you and other hard-working, inspired folks who are pushing this hobby forwards. What an exciting time! ;D
EDIT: Also meant to mention that I really like how you've included the configurable choice for activating lock up - great idea ;)
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The sensitivity of the saber was in this video on hard dualling?
It can be set more sensitive?
My Graflex is set much more sensitive, because a saber like that is not made for hard-dualling.
Let me clarify a bit since I kind of stuttered in the video and wasn't completely clear. There are three config settings related to swing sensitivity in the config:
swingThreshold=[0-255] (number)
slashThreshold=[0-255] (number)
swingWaitLen=[100-1000] (milliseconds)
The first two tell how hard you have to swing it before a sound is made for a swing or a slash. Remember that Igniter(tm) supports two levels of swings, and this hardness is used to differentiate between these two. Lower values makes a swing trigger from slight movements; higher values means a good swing is required before it will trigger. The swingWaitLen is used to determine how long to wait before doing another swing once one was already performed. Lower values will cause a nice sound for spinning, but will potentially cause two (or more) swing sounds per one swing, if that makes sense.
In the video, the first font (my Luke ROTJ) was set with 80, 120, 500 respectively, whereas my second font (Maul) was set to 60, 120, 300, the main difference being the swingWaitLen causing a lot more swing sounds for a spin. So yes, you can set your swingWaitLen and swingThreshold to low values to cause a lot of swing sounds to trigger from little swinging.
Thanks again everyone for the continued support!
I'm sorry,... I meant for Clash.
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Yep its official. I will definately be picking one of these up when they are mass produced. Naigon, You sir are awesome. I wish I could contribute to the hobby as much as your going to. Keep it up : )
Link
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The sensitivity of the saber was in this video on hard dualling?
It can be set more sensitive?
My Graflex is set much more sensitive, because a saber like that is not made for hard-dualling.
Let me clarify a bit since I kind of stuttered in the video and wasn't completely clear. There are three config settings related to swing sensitivity in the config:
swingThreshold=[0-255] (number)
slashThreshold=[0-255] (number)
swingWaitLen=[100-1000] (milliseconds)
The first two tell how hard you have to swing it before a sound is made for a swing or a slash. Remember that Igniter(tm) supports two levels of swings, and this hardness is used to differentiate between these two. Lower values makes a swing trigger from slight movements; higher values means a good swing is required before it will trigger. The swingWaitLen is used to determine how long to wait before doing another swing once one was already performed. Lower values will cause a nice sound for spinning, but will potentially cause two (or more) swing sounds per one swing, if that makes sense.
In the video, the first font (my Luke ROTJ) was set with 80, 120, 500 respectively, whereas my second font (Maul) was set to 60, 120, 300, the main difference being the swingWaitLen causing a lot more swing sounds for a spin. So yes, you can set your swingWaitLen and swingThreshold to low values to cause a lot of swing sounds to trigger from little swinging.
Thanks again everyone for the continued support!
I'm sorry,... I meant for Clash.
Okay, now the question makes sense as I didn't talk about that in the video. However, it has probably now been apparent that I went with a simple clash sensor for clash detections due to various technological and business issues. Thus, the only setting for clash is clashWaitMs, which defines the length after a clash that it will ring out before another swing/clash can interrupt it. Thus physical build will determine your sensitivity. Since my hilt only has two clips that connect to the physical board not much vibration transfers from the blade to the sensor, thus making it unsensitive. If you wanted better sensitivity, you would need padding directly on the sensor to the exterior of the hit. This provides you with best sensitivity, though you still need physical contact and can never do the Novastar style clash where you just "stop short" on a swing to produce the sound.
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So you cannot differ the Clash sensitivity by number and for every mode?
That would have been fantastic, cause you can make a show mode (with showblade) for light tapping, and a real dualling mode (with Heavy Dualling Blade) for serious smashing, in the same saber.
Now, I'm not entirely sure how it is on my CF-Board, sinse it is a very long time ago that I had them out of my sabers tho, (When my saber is perfectly calibrated, I'm done with the tweaking ye know), but I thought I could change the Clash-sensitivity by numbers, only not for every Mode-(Bank on the CF) like how the other functions will be working on the Igniter.
Is that something you could still change/improve?
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I was wondering what you were going to do for the clash sensing. Basic clash sensor makes sense. Are you thinking of making the board available with the clash module seperate or already soldered? Not that it matters a whole lot lol, great pt 2 man!
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...though you still need physical contact and can never do the Novastar style clash where you just "stop short" on a swing to produce the sound.
I can see why some people might want that for 'stage purposes' but personally I prefer needing actual physical contact for clash so I don't get unwanted clashes from abrupt change of saber direction as happens too often on my older versions of Ultrasounds [havent tried an obsidian yet]...so this is good news imo...the swing wait length configurability sounds like it should help people who want to specialize their saber effects more towards spinner or dueler too so I look forward to trying that out when this is released...great to see this is progressing so nicely.
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So you cannot differ the Clash sensitivity by number and for every mode?
That would have been fantastic, cause you can make a show mode (with showblade) for light tapping, and a real dualling mode (with Heavy Dualling Blade) for serious smashing, in the same saber.
Now, I'm not entirely sure how it is on my CF-Board, sinse it is a very long time ago that I had them out of my sabers tho, (When my saber is perfectly calibrated, I'm done with the tweaking ye know), but I thought I could change the Clash-sensitivity by numbers, only not for every Mode-(Bank on the CF) like how the other functions will be working on the Igniter.
Is that something you could still change/improve?
Yes, it would have been nice but I had to make cuts somewhere, and did here. I could add a setting to reduce the sensitivity of the clash for each font but it is probably moot since it would be hard to get it so sensitive that a light tap would trigger it, which is when the sensitivity would make a difference.
I will eventually consider a firmware update, but it won't be for a while since I have other works in the pipeline.
Also since we are talking about the board I will post my nice pic of the top. The clash sensor is the bar running down the center axis of the board. Note that this is the first version; the revision has slight changes but nothing too substantial.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mediafire.com%2Fimgbnc.php%2Fb9d84a14ab2e7684bb10cb7287dde939242d74f7723312714955963755f1062e2g.jpg&hash=10e8e9df97c12d859c7e0096a4cfc9fda97b1e6f) (http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=oeh638o6lhh2tel&thumb=5)
I was wondering what you were going to do for the clash sensing. Basic clash sensor makes sense. Are you thinking of making the board available with the clash module seperate or already soldered? Not that it matters a whole lot lol, great pt 2 man!
As you can see I've got it planed to be directly on the board. It is easy to de-solder if needed since this is the tallest component but since its in the center I doubt it will cause much issue.
Also, today I'm working on finishing up the manual since it will surely be needed for my testers!
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Thanks for explaning.
Beautyfull picture, looks very complex.
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yes very interesting neat looking board
love the vids
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Very nice worke !
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Newest video is up! This explains the swing settings and how the work by showing the extreme values.
Also one more quick example of Multi-Die Flash is shown along with a little tid-bit at the end for the beta-testers.
Hope everyone enjoys:)
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Great work. I am glad to see you have something that YOU are finally happy with. :D I'm looking forward to hearing how "Igniter" does in the trials!
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nice vid niagon its shaping up great
by the way who are the beta testers?
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nice vid niagon its shaping up great
by the way who are the beta testers?
Funny you should ask, because that brings me to the contest!!! :)
As I said in the video I have four testers. One of them is my good friend Rezolution, who not only provided me with the LED that I first created TruMixtm with, but has also provided me with a lot of support emotionally along the way (the instant there was some problem, I would immediately whine to him this is too hard, lol!) He will be named because he is on vacation now, and may not get the install quickly.
For the other three, that is for you to guess! Here's how the contest works:
Monday the boards will ship out to the other three testers at the exact same time from my location (Washington state). The testers will then get the boards, install them into a hilt and post a video. On Tuesday, 17 August at 11:59pm EDT entries stop. Your goal is to guess the following:
1. The three testers
2. The order in which they post the videos, soonest as number one (ie if you think its Bob, Jane and Joe, that means you think Bob will post first, then Jane, then Joe).
The person that is closest based on these two criteria will win a guaranteed slot in the first run and 25% off the retail price! for the board.
This contest is here specifically for those that have been following this thread with interest, as a thanks for the encouragement to keep going no matter how tough stuff got. You can respond to this post with your guess. Oh and testers, please don't reveal who you are or fix the videos to promote a winner :)
Good luck!
Edit: I put a better ending date since I don't want this thread to become bombarded with entries. Also slightly modified percentage for price, I'm pretty far in the hole and since this is more for fun I hope that its okay :)
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Well, I have basically been following your progress since the beginning. :) Though I have a strong feeling I know the identities of the other three testers, I'll refrain from playing, and leave the fun to everyone else.
All I REALLY hope for is that you heed advice that was given to you earlier on your journey. Help you it will. ;)
Best of luck to you, Naigon.
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Well if it were me & I lived on your side of the pond I'd probably go with one to Vaders Vault, one to LDM & one to Jango. As for the order Jango is pretty quick on the draw when it comes to making videos, then LDM & Vaders Vault a close 3rd. I'd have been tempted to suggest Novastar but he's usually pretty busy at this time of year plus there's his work on the NCSCS & Obsidian to bear in mind so I'm not sure he could find the time. Knowing my luck though he's probably kitted out the latest incarnation of Flange with a flux capacitor designed to kick in when he hits a backflip at 88MPH. "Hilts? Where we're going we don't need hilts!" :D
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Alright... I'll throw in some guesses...
First will be Amptrooper, Gil Gamesh, then cannibal69.
A wide variety of different testers, each unique....
That's my 2 cents ;D
Edited first guess...
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My guesses on the testers are: Gil Gamesh, Amptrooper and Ducos Rocciss.
Order:
Gil, Ducos, Amptrooper.
Final Answer. :D
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I think Vaders Vault, Jango Fett and LDM will be the first to release the finished video in the exact order as mentioned.
Let's hope I'm right.
:) :) :)
The only difference is making a video, and testing the board completely.
So I'll hope they wire up the board as fast as they can and later on test this further. :D :D :D :D :D :D but that's only to help me win.
Your video is great and funny again and very cleaer as always.
I can see you love making this Igniter.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Good choices but on the order I would guess LDM, Vaders Vault, Jango Fett...
...I'm rooting for a hyperjump-quick "Black Mat Time" so don't let me down General... ;) ;) lol
Seriously, its great to see how swiftly this is progressing...Good Luck to the testers whoever you are and here's hoping there are no bugs to squash or if there are that you find em all and they are easy fixes.
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I say Genisis custom sabers, LDM and Vaders vault
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I've seen some really good guesses so far! Remember due to the order even if I see the correct names I have no clue about the order, so your guess is as good as mine there! Note that I put an end date on the contest of Tuesday 11:59 eastern instead of when the first person posts; I decided if they take a while I don't want to sift through pages of guesses :)
Your video is great and funny again and very cleaer as always.
I can see you love making this Igniter.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Thanks again for the compliments! It's kind of ironic that you mention me loving making it today, as I was up late last night worrying about manufacturing, testing, and pretty much everything about this project besides how cool the technology is, lol! Seriously I do love it, but it can be a bit of a headache sometimes. You guys keep me going though!
Here's the link again too for those who missed it with all the responses: .
Cheers,
Naigon
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In order I'll take a guess at Madcow, Jango and Novastar.
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Im thinking.....
1st: Jango
2nd: Vaders Vault
3rd: MH
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Jango, LDM, VV.
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whoever is installing these prototype boards,? i assume they have also used the CF-XXX boards, and can therefore give us a fair unbiased view of the pros and cons of using igniter... thats what i assume this exercise is all about.?
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1. Lions
2. Tigers
3. Bears
oh my!
I am glad to see the board progressing to this stage and look forward to the install videos :)
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whoever is installing these prototype boards,? i assume they have also used the CF-XXX boards, and can therefore give us a fair unbiased view of the pros and cons of using igniter... thats what i assume this exercise is all about.?
Actually the main reason for the testing is to work out any bugs or problems before it hits the general public. My testers will be filing bugs to me via a procedure I define, and I will classify as either "fix", "won't fix", and "not repro", which is pretty standard practice in the software world. Bugs are not only software issues, but issues like the config name is too confusing and the documentation is incorrect or not clear. Honestly at this point I really hope that all bugs are in the category of the latter but in the event there is a code issue it is better to be found and squashed now.
However, that being said I believe everyone that is doing the testing has indeed worked with both the PC and the CF (multiple versions) so we will get accurate representations of install and feature comparisons. But again this is secondary to making a product that is as stable as possible.
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1. Lions
2. Tigers
3. Bears
oh my!
I am glad to see the board progressing to this stage and look forward to the install videos :)
Sorry for posting off-topic... but I seriously stopped and broke out laughing at this. :D :D
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obviously producing a sound board which is solid and reliable is paramount at this stage of igniter.s development but any sound board being released is now entering a competitive arena in terms of both functions and price point ...igniter and hilt works seem to be offering excellent features when compared to crystal focus and the DIY crowd will be looking at the pros and cons of the various boardsfor their current builds, comparisons are just a fact of life and should be welcomed ... i think we are entering a period in the saber hobby world where no one board will hold all the aces and that also is a great thing for joe saber public.. i have high expectations of igniter. and hilworks and welcome their imminent arrival :)
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i'll go ahead and vote for Madcow, Novastar, Erv. makes sense to send new soundboards out to the sound guys right?
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I was not asked to be a tester so i doubt I will be on that list.
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My guess is
1) Caine
2) Madcow
3) Jango
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MH, Ducos Rossis, Jango
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Hmmmmmmm
Jango : Qui Gon : Vaders Vault
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I'll guess
1) MH
2) Ducos Rossis
3) VV
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Gonna go with...
MH
Jango
VV
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I am going to go with
Jango
MH
Vader's Vault.
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[/quote]
On Tuesday, 17 August at 11:59pm EDT entries stop. Your goal is to guess the following:
[/quote]
So does the contest end on Tuesday or August 17th at 11:59pm EDT?
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il say jango fett, gil gameish, and vaders vault
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Madcow, Gil Gamesh, Luminara. :-\
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On Tuesday, 17 August at 11:59pm EDT entries stop. Your goal is to guess the following:
So does the contest end on Tuesday or August 17th at 11:59pm EDT?
Probably not... if only one person guesses all three correct people, then it would be over. I can tell you this isn't the case, so most likely multiple people with two out of 3 correct. Those people will be in the "final round" and then the order in which the smiths post the video will be the tie breaker. So at 11:59pm EDT tonight you cannot edit your entry as I will write down what was entered and find all the finalists. Does that make sense?
Good luck, and if you want to modify or change your vote do it soon!
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VV, , Az, Novastar
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MH, Jango Fett and Gil Gamesh
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Today, Tuesday, is the 16th.
Tomorrow, Wednesday, would be the 17th.
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Oh darn I can't read a calendar, lol! I meant tonight. The issue is its basically the 17th since its right before midnight, but yes the date should read the 16th. Oops, sorry about that! :P
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nobody thought of master yoda so far?
so then my guess is:
master yoda
madcow
jango
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MADCOW ---MH---VV.
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Larry, Curly and Moe.
Wait. What are we talking about again? ;)
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Update...I'm in. Some of you may just want to modify your order. For those who are "newer" members, y'all better recognize...
If i had 3 my order would be:
General Grievous
LDM
Jango/GG tie...
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My guess is
1) Caine
2) Madcow
3) Jango
LOL, I wasn't asked either. :D
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LDM-VV-Skottsaber for the upset!!! :o
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Okay...my three real guesses, with reasons
LDM (He's on vacation what else is he gonna do go swimming?)
Jango (Likes nothing better than to void warranties)
VV (Perfectionists...its just gotta be right)
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The contest is now closed for entries:) I'm going through right now to record all the entries of the semi finalists (again I don't think anyone has all three correct). Hope everyone had fun with this!
Edit:
I've gone though the results, and no one has all three, so it is going into the order now. So we are down to 4 people that have two right! I think I'll wait a day to announce their names though to add to the suspense :)
One more thing, I've already lined up two more testers for round two; this is when the add-on board will be available and then TruColor(tm) can be tested to its fullest extent. I don't think I'll do another contest for these, but maybe in the future I'll think of something! Oh, and did I mention that the 3 shipped Monday, and everyone in the first round should have them by Friday? ;D
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Update...I'm in. Some of you may just want to modify your order. For those who are "newer" members, y'all better recognize...
If i had 3 my order would be:
General Grievous
LDM
Jango/GG tie...
*Looks GG straight in the eye... and shakes my head* ;D ;D ;D
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now that the list is closed I can share this. I didn't want to mess up Naigon's contest so I figured I would wait.
Those that picked me "would" have been correct but I decided not to participated in the testing because of a conflict of interest (nothing against Naigon or his board).
Sorry I didn't PM anyone and tell you I wasn't involved but figured that would be cheating.
good luck and if I had to guess here who I think the testers are (not an official entry since the list is closed...just sharing what I think for fun) and the order I think the testers will complete based on the work log of the testers I think have been chosen.
Jango
Gil Gamesh
VV
At any rate good luck everyone with the testing. I look forward to seeing the vids. :)
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now that the list is closed I can share this. I didn't want to mess up Naigon's contest so I figured I would wait.
Those that picked me "would" have been correct but I decided not to participated in the testing because of a conflict of interest (nothing against Naigon or his board).
Sorry I didn't PM anyone and tell you I wasn't involved but figured that would be cheating.
good luck and if I had to guess here who I think the testers are (not an official entry since the list is closed...just sharing what I think for fun) and the order I think the testers will complete based on the work log of the testers I think have been chosen.
Jango
Gil Gamesh
VV
At any rate good luck everyone with the testing. I look forward to seeing the vids. :)
Hey MH, thanks for being a good sport! Yes you would have been the extra one so people that guessed you were on the right track. Also, lots of folks guessed my next round of testers so those guesses were also good. But there are 4 with two of the three correct from the first round, so we'll see how that goes.
By the way, if your guess was real you would be the fifth finalist now:)
Update...I'm in. Some of you may just want to modify your order. For those who are "newer" members, y'all better recognize...
If i had 3 my order would be:
General Grievous
LDM
Jango/GG tie...
Yes Grievous you are in!!! But I'll be sending you your board with the add-on in a little over a week, so you are part of the second round. To not disturb the contest the original 3 are considered the first round and those haven't change, I've only added a couple people to round two.
By the way I'll be on vacation for one week starting this weekend with limited access to the internet (win7 phone only), so don't fear while my posts and responses will be reduced to nil I'll be getting some much needed R&R and will be back soon.
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i know its over but never too late to have some input.
gil, jango, madcow
orrr
gil jango ducos
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Y'all forgot Skottsaber.
That's all I'm gonna say.
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now that the list is closed I can share this. I didn't want to mess up Naigon's contest so I figured I would wait.
Those that picked me "would" have been correct but I decided not to participated in the testing because of a conflict of interest (nothing against Naigon or his board).
Sorry I didn't PM anyone and tell you I wasn't involved but figured that would be cheating.
good luck and if I had to guess here who I think the testers are (not an official entry since the list is closed...just sharing what I think for fun) and the order I think the testers will complete based on the work log of the testers I think have been chosen.
Jango
Gil Gamesh
VV
At any rate good luck everyone with the testing. I look forward to seeing the vids. :)
Hey MH, thanks for being a good sport! Yes you would have been the extra one so people that guessed you were on the right track. Also, lots of folks guessed my next round of testers so those guesses were also good. But there are 4 with two of the three correct from the first round, so we'll see how that goes.
By the way, if your guess was real you would be the fifth finalist now:)
Update...I'm in. Some of you may just want to modify your order. For those who are "newer" members, y'all better recognize...
If i had 3 my order would be:
General Grievous
LDM
Jango/GG tie...
Yes Grievous you are in!!! But I'll be sending you your board with the add-on in a little over a week, so you are part of the second round. To not disturb the contest the original 3 are considered the first round and those haven't change, I've only added a couple people to round two.
By the way I'll be on vacation for one week starting this weekend with limited access to the internet (win7 phone only), so don't fear while my posts and responses will be reduced to nil I'll be getting some much needed R&R and will be back soon.
LOL, all of you new folks don't recognize that indeed I still may beat them. ;D There was a time...now you kids get off my lawn! ::)
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Since everyone has waited long enough, and because I suspect you will be seeing some videos quite soon I will reveal the four finalists. These people have two of the 3 smiths correct, so only the video posting order will tell the winner!
In order of their posts:
Jedi Yar Nala
Master Durangus
Scorpion
Sunrider
Good luck to the finalists, and I'll be talking when I get back!
Edit:
I've also created a video on how to fix sounds to work with Igniter(tm). Due to TruMix(tm) 3 things need to be done to the file in order for it to sound good and loud:
1. Highpass at 200Hz;
2. Compression to reduce peaks and increase perceived volume.
3. Bring max peak to 75%.
Here is a video about how to do this, sorry about the crappy quality my computer had trouble recording audio and video at the same time:
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Very cool. 8) I guess the proper smiths (if anyone didn't do the math ;) ) were: Gil Gamesh, Amptrooper and Vader's Vault . Now the tie-breaker.... ;D
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Yup... that was my deduction...
Darn it... that was my original vote... before I edited it...
ALWAYS go with your gut feelings :P
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Yup... that was my deduction...
Darn it... that was my original vote... before I edited it...
ALWAYS go with your gut feelings :P
I thought I remembered you having all three correct, but when I went through the last day it was different. Well, at least you are still in the running, but you could have cleaned up before the videos even started :)
On another note, General Kota was kind enough to send me some files for the first "official" Igniter(tm) sound font. This is a Darth Vader font that I believe is based on Episode IV, but I'm not sure. I cleaned them up, created some new swings and slash files and added the font.wav description file as well. Here is a video of the result:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q8hSIiklFQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q8hSIiklFQ)
Currently it has the following sounds:
- 12 swing sounds
- 4 slash sounds
- 1 hum
- 1 retraction
- 1 extension
- 4 clash sounds
- 1 lockup
- 1 "blaster block" (actually the vader force choke sound as there is no Vader doing a blaster block).
Hope everyone enjoys.
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the sound board is awesome my friend i really cant wait to sample it in a saber of my own
its right up ther with the cf... or it appears to be anyway
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That's fantastic! ;D
Very excited about this being available soon. The tweaked ignition sounds really good. I guess my personal preference would be for a quieter idle hum, but then that's part of the appeal of the live mixing - I imagine it's very do-able for the end user to tweak that to their own personal taste.
Wishing you every success with the culmination of lots of inspiration and hard work ;)
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That's fantastic! ;D
Very excited about this being available soon. The tweaked ignition sounds really good. I guess my personal preference would be for a quieter idle hum, but then that's part of the appeal of the live mixing - I imagine it's very do-able for the end user to tweak that to their own personal taste.
Wishing you every success with the culmination of lots of inspiration and hard work ;)
There are two config settings for just that:
volumeHum=[0-16]
volumeEffect=[0-16]
So if you want your hum a bit quieter you can set it to 15 or 14 and leave the effect at 16. You could also modify the original .wav file easily, but I believe the config values make it much simpler for those of you that don't have access to audio editing software.
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Yup... that was my deduction...
Darn it... that was my original vote... before I edited it...
ALWAYS go with your gut feelings :P
I thought I remembered you having all three correct, but when I went through the last day it was different. Well, at least you are still in the running, but you could have cleaned up before the videos even started :)
On another note, General Kota was kind enough to send me some files for the first "official" Igniter(tm) sound font. This is a Darth Vader font that I believe is based on Episode IV, but I'm not sure. I cleaned them up, created some new swings and slash files and added the font.wav description file as well. Here is a video of the result:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q8hSIiklFQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q8hSIiklFQ)
Currently it has the following sounds:
- 12 swing sounds
- 4 slash sounds
- 1 hum
- 1 retraction
- 1 extension
- 4 clash sounds
- 1 lockup
- 1 "blaster block" (actually the vader force choke sound as there is no Vader doing a blaster block).
Hope everyone enjoys.
mumble, mumble, mumble.... should have stayed with my gut.... (hear's Obi-Wan's voice... trust your feeling... let go....). :P
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;D
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In episode 5, where Han and Leia walk into the trap on Cloud City and Vader is waiting for them... Han fires a shot at Vader and Vader deflects it with his hand... Maybe that could be used for the Vader deflection sound :)
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JYN - just don't do that again if you ever buy a lottery ticket...
Naigon - thanks, that really couldn't be much more straightforward. Just looking back over stuff and also had missed the sound mixing tutorial before, too. The whole thing looks incredibly accessible and user friendly ;)
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In episode 5, where Han and Leia walk into the trap on Cloud City and Vader is waiting for them... Han fires a shot at Vader and Vader deflects it with his hand... Maybe that could be used for the Vader deflection sound :)
LOL thats exactly what I was thinking, but for some reason I can't get the voice of a little child out of my head who says ,"Wonder woman!"
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Now you mention it, a Family Guy/Star Wars font is crying out to be done :D
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A family guy Star Wars font i'm sure won't be too far away on the horizon *Hint hint* :D
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Very nice. I am very impressed with the way it turned out and how you stuck with it. I know there were some people that had doubts, even I did to start with, but it turned out very nice and I can't wait to get my hands on one.
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Sign me up for one! ;D
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this whole project is amazing :o and has been from start to first prototype boards, the speed you've progressed at is incredible -WELL DONE- ...soooo now igniter is almost ready for official release but i can't help but wonder IF we are looking at CF-XXX all over again as far as availability is concerned.? having to wait literally years to buy a sound board is insane i am well aware of costs and logistics involved in bringing any new product in to the market place and i was wondering what plans you have as regards actually retailing the board ?..yep i really like the extension , retraction and lockup, the swings are nice and responsive and pretty accurate..as i understand you can lower the idle hum so that theswing clash effect can take centre stage and your latest vid nicely demos the truemix feature...excellent work niagon. :)___PS- there is no doubt in my mind that i could take JEDI FOOTMAN in a straight up lightsaber duel and i challenge him openly. :D
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Yea I would defiantly be interested in one of these for my Reaver project, primarily for the on the fly color change and multiple primary LED capability.
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this whole project is amazing :o and has been from start to first prototype boards, the speed you've progressed at is incredible -WELL DONE- ...soooo now igniter is almost ready for official release but i can't help but wonder IF we are looking at CF-XXX all over again as far as availability is concerned.? having to wait literally years to buy a sound board is insane i am well aware of costs and logistics involved in bringing any new product in to the market place and i was wondering what plans you have as regards actually retailing the board ?..yep i really like the extension , retraction and lockup, the swings are nice and responsive and pretty accurate..as i understand you can lower the idle hum so that theswing clash effect can take centre stage and your latest vid nicely demos the truemix feature...excellent work niagon. :)___PS- there is no doubt in my mind that i could take JEDI FOOTMAN in a straight up lightsaber duel and i challenge him openly. :D
These are soldered by hand, and are not mass produced and as far as I know will not be mass produced. This isn't going to be available like Obsidian where 10,000 or whatever boards are just sitting around waiting for you to buy them. Runs/batches will be made, and then made available. There will be wait times and people unable to score one. Will it be worth even the years wait? Ohyea ;D
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this whole project is amazing :o and has been from start to first prototype boards, the speed you've progressed at is incredible -WELL DONE- ...soooo now igniter is almost ready for official release but i can't help but wonder IF we are looking at CF-XXX all over again as far as availability is concerned.? having to wait literally years to buy a sound board is insane i am well aware of costs and logistics involved in bringing any new product in to the market place and i was wondering what plans you have as regards actually retailing the board ?..yep i really like the extension , retraction and lockup, the swings are nice and responsive and pretty accurate..as i understand you can lower the idle hum so that theswing clash effect can take centre stage and your latest vid nicely demos the truemix feature...excellent work niagon. :)___PS- there is no doubt in my mind that i could take JEDI FOOTMAN in a straight up lightsaber duel and i challenge him openly. :D
These are soldered by hand, and are not mass produced and as far as I know will not be mass produced. This isn't going to be available like Obsidian where 10,000 or whatever boards are just sitting around waiting for you to buy them. Runs/batches will be made, and then made available. There will be wait times and people unable to score one. Will it be worth even the years wait? Ohyea ;D
Actually, the plan to date is to do multiple "runs" throughout the year. For now it would be driven from this site though in the future it would be off my own site probably. However, there will be down time between runs as from the time it takes to order a run from the manufacturer is like 3-4 weeks, then I would hand program and test each board, then put them for sale and ship them out. So if you miss a "run" you wouldn't be able to buy one new for at least 2 months as that's the length it takes to get them produced. Plus, it may be a bit longer if I take a couple weeks breather between all that.
I've put "run" in quotes as I plan to actually front the manufacturing cost and then sell instantly at full price. I don't want to be in the business of having people give me partial payments and then collect more money later as its more of a pain and an annoyance for the customer. However, this first run may be special since I'm in pretty deep with development costs. We'll see how that goes.
At any rate expect quantities to be between that of the PC (which is always available except for maybe a week) and the CF (which only comes available at limited times). I do not want to make people who want one wait for years to get one, but at the same time I cannot become a storefront and don't want to anyways out of respect for Tim.
I still don't have a manufacturer lined up, so can't comment on price or run size as of yet.
Hope that helps to clarify a bit.
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Hiltworks/igniter/CF - More boards = More people who can get them.
If there are more high end boards available, than people will not have to wait 2-3 years to get one, maybe just 6-12 months. I think some people, when they get a chance, buy a Crystal Focus board, not because the need one at that moment, but because they don't know when they will get another chance when they do need one. So hopefully this will also lower the phenomenon of high end board shelving because remember people, high end boards should be in high end sabers, not on a high shelf :(
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As a reminder, this is still a hobby. MOST of the "higher end" boards that are developed / created / built (by hand for the most part) / then put up for sale are done by INDIVIDUALS, not big corporations. They produce as many as their time, finances (to buy the component parts) and energy allow them to do at a time. It is unfortunate that the hobby (and the demand for high end boards) is growing faster than the actual development and production of "higher end" boards, but that is the situation that this hobby finds itself in for now. ::)
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thats bang on F-JEDI,it really is very unfortunate that high end boards are not more readily available and hopefully the situation will improve SOON ---today i was working so once again i missed the CF sale and well,,.. thats the way it is if you work your chances become infinitesmal AT BEST.... at least good intentions are already being voiced about igniters availability , i honestly feel that waiting around for 2_3 years for almost anything is ridiculous there has to be a better way to sell these boards but i dont have any solutions so i guess lets see how things go. :)
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I tweaked the vader font and now it is ready for consumption. You can download it here: http://www.mediafire.com/?50x10jn5w1w42xk (http://www.mediafire.com/?50x10jn5w1w42xk)
General Kota has requested that anyone using this font please give him a $2.00 donation for his efforts. Please respect this and donate the money to him. His email address is in the readme.txt file in the zip, just send to that email via paypal.
Also, I've renamed the font to "All Too Easy", as it turns out it was from Episode V! I also went ahead and added two blaster blocks grabbed from the scene where Han shoots him as was suggested. The original choke sound is still included as force.wav; you can rename it to blstNN.wav (replace NN with 03 if you want all, or 01 if you only want this sound) if you want it as a blaster block sound. I've also updated the font.wav to the "All too easy" sound. The original is included as font.wav.epIV.
Edit
Oh I forgot, never pay me for fonts! If you ever feel inclined to pay me for a font please just donate the money to the forum. I don't want to get money for fonts mainly because I feel that they should benefit the community, but for other reasons as well.
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? ??? All too easy was episode V.
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? ??? All too easy was episode V.
Yep.
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is there a problem with financial donations .?...say through paypal or other.?
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is there a problem with financial donations .?...say through paypal or other.?
Edit: I'm changing my original statement since I don't have enough details to answer well. Lets just say that for sure I don't want to be in the business of ever taking money for fonts.
At any rate the generosity of this forum has been amazing, and thanks all for the continued support!
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Naigon, I'm not a lawyer, but trust me, delete your last post and go speak to one.
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Here is the next font for Igniter(tm), Dark Apprentice. This font is loosely based of ep1 Darth Maul. I've cleaned it up a lot since my previous videos using it; in fact about the only thing that is the same is the hum and blade extension sounds.
I'm refraining from uploading the sounds now but they will be up soon.
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very good..
im interested in what the testers have to say have any of them posted yet?
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Really digging that sound font, and it lets people see the full spectrum of what the board is capable of. I asked this on youtube, but I'll ask it here as well. Did something attack your camera at the end? lol.
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Great job Niagon, I really do like those slash swings that are faster than regular swings. Very cool.
Different lockups are cool too. Very nice!
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Nice font...I like those blaster block sounds and the slashes quite a lot.
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ive decided to revoke my challenge to jedi footman , i dont want any of that thank you very much, :D... brilliant swing recognition from igniter but the clash wasn't as sharp,, teething troubles are there to test for ...keep it going. ;)
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Here's another font for your viewing pleasure. This one was done by Rezolution, so he'll be putting it up later. Enjoy!
Edit:
I noticed the clashes did seem to hard to trigger, and after watching this video I decided to revisit the code and well... I had a bug! Clashes are perfect now, so next video will show that. Here's a video showing the new clash sensing, along with the TruColor(tm) add-on board.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqfA66F0BQg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqfA66F0BQg)
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just keeps getting better, ..its great that you've gone for triple redundancy in your bug testing and i can't wait to hear all the pros and cons of igniter.. even at this stage truemix is a step forward thats awesome...i may have missed it but what are the input power ratings for igniter battery packs.? lowest and max input.?
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Love TruColor™!! That is going to revolutionize sabers!!
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This is fracking O'mazing!
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Here is a short video of my Igniter board that Naigon sent to me for some beta testing. It is really awesome and I had a great time installing it and testing it out. I'm going to try to experiment with some new fonts as well (when I get some time).
The hilt is a stunt Anakin that I got from Ultrasabers a while back at their $79 sale. I stripped out all the internal wiring, made up a custom switch assembly (main/aux tactiles) and added a LEDEngin RGBW. It runs on (2) removable 14500 Li-Ion batteries and has easy access to the micro SD card via the pommel. The LEDEngin is currently running at 750mA per die.
Thanks again to Naigon for the amazingly awesome board and to Luminara for the expert LED advice.
Hope you guys enjoy:
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im always looking for new information on this sound board and thanks for the vid ...im still amazed at how fast this is developing.
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Whoa, hold the phone a second!! WOW, I have been following this closely and I understand the color mixing concepts but I didn't realize (for some stupid reason) that you could define the FoC color in each font's config too using the RGB mixer!! WHOA! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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man i need this in a saber just get it in one of my sabers for me
very awesome i have to say from just initially looking at it and hearing it its up ther with, if not better than a cf board?
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There are a few different ways you can set up the flash on clash depending on the LED you're using. My favorite way to do it is just to hook up the RGB dies and then do everything in the config file. If you wanted, there are leads on the board dedicated for flash on clash and you can use them with a separate die (white) or any other color mix you would choose. It's all explained in the instruction manual (along with diagrams).
There are so many things you can configure/customize to get every font exactly how you like it in the config file. It's one of those things that's very hard to put down or stop working on LoL.
One really nice thing about the constant current drivers (per individual die) is that the shades you create in the config stay the same color until the saber batteries run out, regardless of actual battery voltages.
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man i need this in a saber just get it in one of my sabers for me
very awesome i have to say from just initially looking at it and hearing it its up ther with, if not better than a cf board?
I don't think you can compare boards like that. It's just like cars- some people like Ford, some people prefer Dodge, some will only drive Lincolns. You just have to find which one fits your needs, that you like, and not worry about comparing it to something else :)
Everyone that makes/designs these boards does it because they love the hobby. Everyone should be respected and appreciated!
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"Shut up and take my money!!!"
;D
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man i need this in a saber just get it in one of my sabers for me
very awesome i have to say from just initially looking at it and hearing it its up ther with, if not better than a cf board?
I don't think you can compare boards like that. It's just like cars- some people like Ford, some people prefer Dodge, some will only drive Lincolns. You just have to find which one fits your needs, that you like, and not worry about comparing it to something else :)
Everyone that makes/designs these boards does it because they love the hobby. Everyone should be respected and appreciated!
of course but the comparisons are gonna be inevitable because right now the cf5 is the hottest thing out there atm
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"Shut up and take my money!!!"
;D
LoL
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:D :D :D
I cannot wait either.
This is really great.
I can go from Mace to Luke to Qui ead end up like Vader with only one saber, and all have their own FoC type of color.
I like to have differend soundboard.
Next month I possibly have 2 CF-V's, but I really hungry for a few Igniters too.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
@ Rezolution,... I don't know if it's the YouTube degradation to the sound quallity or your saber going too much overdrive, but the sound of your saber really sounded Hard Rock Destortion man. :D :D :D ;D ;D
I thought Metallica was going on a Star Wars Tour this year. :D :D :D
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Yes!!
A different color blade for each font :o
That has got to be one of the coolest features ever. Very impressed I am.
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It's the Flip I recorded it with. It couldn't handle the sound levels of the board or even the brightness of the LEDEngin LED.
Igniter is very VEry VERY loud.
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Whoa, hold the phone a second!! WOW, I have been following this closely and I understand the color mixing concepts but I didn't realize (for some stupid reason) that you could define the FoC color in each font's config too using the RGB mixer!! WHOA! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
Indeed, the hobby just took another big step forward...no more having to make up individual RGB LED's, just use one and get pretty much any color you want for your main blade and FoC color. This board and the HiltWorks sound board are gonna really change things when they come out.
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It's funny because I've been editing/proof-reading the manual and I didn't catch on to this particular ability. I have two Igniter™ sabers planned and I was going to use RGBA's with the amber die for FoC. Now I'll re-think that!
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Here is a short video of my Igniter board that Naigon sent to me for some beta testing. It is really awesome and I had a great time installing it and testing it out. I'm going to try to experiment with some new fonts as well (when I get some time).
The hilt is a stunt Anakin that I got from Ultrasabers a while back at their $79 sale. I stripped out all the internal wiring, made up a custom switch assembly (main/aux tactiles) and added a LEDEngin RGBW. It runs on (2) removable 14500 Li-Ion batteries and has easy access to the micro SD card via the pommel. The LEDEngin is currently running at 750mA per die.
Thanks again to Naigon for the amazingly awesome board and to Luminara for the expert LED advice.
Hope you guys enjoy:
Amazingly awesome is a good description. Thanks for the video.
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Good review! I've been quite impressed with the TruColor add-on board and the capabilities/configurations it presents for your multi-die led.
As was said earlier, everybody is wondering how this holds up to a CF. Well, to be fair that alone needs it's own comparison and review, but I can say the boards both have their pro's and con's, and builders will have to look at all aspects when making their decision.
Sound wise, the CF hack opens up the sound to the level of Igniter. Hackless, IMO, sound is LOUDER on the Igniter. As far as the cleanliness of the sound, well that depends on the font and how it was created as well as the speaker used. Fairly tied IMO. There are more COLOR type options available to tweak with the Igniter than the CF, but CF is soon to have an LED string setup ability, so that being something Igniter doesn't do, kinda evens out. Igniter uses a clash sensor, CF is able (being non-US based) to not use one. One is longer, than the other.
I give this board a 10 along with the CF. It all just depends on what you want, your internal space available, etc. I have gotten just as much if not more enjoyment out of this board than a CF though, mainly due to having 9 fonts I can configure completely seperately and have completely different lighting effects throughout. But to be fair, I geeked out for a week straight at least when I got my first CF eons ago, so it could just be the initial excitement and wow factor of this board.
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comparisons with the CF-5xxx and hiltworks should be expected and welcomed, just as GIL as said there will be pros and cons with each board. i have just sent off for 5 10watt LEDENGINS and hopefully i will get to use one on a highend sound board within the next 8 months and it could happen with the two new boards when they become available ... frankly i don't really care that one board as slightly better or different features than the OTHER , i only care that it works well, is reliable and THAT I CAN BUY ONE. ;)
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I think all the 'new generation' soundboards will have their own particular merits and will spur further developments by everyone to 'up their game' so maybe they don't need to be 'compared' against one another [though by human nature people inevitably will] as they will ALL be good for the whole hobby imo [maybe Erv will be encouraged to 'bake' some C.R.E.P.E.S. afterall lol]
As for this board I must admit that TruColor is very exciting for me...orange, yellow, purple, viridian...all in one saber would be truly amazing.
I very much look forward to this board if I'm lucky enough to get one and I'm sure we all do. With continuing movement of more builders to higher performance LEDs, better speakers in the pipeline and better sound and LEd driving solutions from more sources this hobby will keep getting brighter, better sounding, and maybe more colourful soon...we should all be happy at the prospect of that eh?
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Hey Rezolution, one thing I noticed from your video is I did not see any flickering on the blade...
Am I wrong or did you have that turned down in the config files?
I am almost positive this board does the flickering or 'movie mode' or whatever but I just couldn't pick up that effect on camera.
I'm assuming you can control this effect with varying degrees just like you can in the CF?
Thanks,
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Hey Rezolution, one thing I noticed from your video is I did not see any flickering on the blade...
Am I wrong or did you have that turned down in the config files?
I am almost positive this board does the flickering or 'movie mode' or whatever but I just couldn't pick up that effect on camera.
I'm assuming you can control this effect with varying degrees just like you can in the CF?
Thanks,
Yeah, I really do have to apologize for the camera I'm using. It's an HD Gen2 Flip. Also, my basement area has about 1000W+ of lighting.
I have the pulse effects turned down pretty low (90 low end and 99% high end)because I don't like the flickering. It's much more noticeable if you set it 60-100 or something like that and vary the pulse speed. Also, when you set it to flicker between 50 and 99% brightness, the LEDs are only being driven at half power (when it's at 50%). I just don't like that. That's the great thing about the Igniter board though, you can set it to what YOU like :)
I would say the the problem is with the camera for sure. It whited-out for most all of the colors and made it really hard to see just how awesome the color mix shades are.
Again, I apologize for that issues with the camera. Maybe I'll try borrowing someone else's... I will be make a few more videos for sure after I finish my next 3 fonts.
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Yes, this very interesting and exciting. I keep coming back to wanting to do a tribute to Kenner's old "The Force Saber" and this would allow me to change colors with fonts which would be pretty darn near perfect.
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Yeah, I really do have to apologize for the camera I'm using. It's an HD Gen2 Flip. Also, my basement area has about 1000W+ of lighting.
Maybe I'll try borrowing someone else's... I will be make a few more videos for sure after I finish my next 3 fonts.
YEAH, That would be great.
If you can, just make it a High-Deff High-End Pro-Cam with some 7.1 Surround Pro-Mics. ;D ;D ;D
We really like to see and hear every bit. ;)
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YEAH, That would be great.
If you can, just make it a High Deff High End Pro Cam with some Pro 7.1 Surround Mics. ;D ;D ;D
We really like to see and hear every bit. ;)
Sure, just send me the camera and I'd be happy to make the video LoL.
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I shall e-mail you the photo and specs, so you'lll know what to aim for. :D :D :D
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Actually no.. come to my house like the old vacuum salesmen of the '50's and do a demo for me in my living room ;D
I promise I'll buy one! Lol or three.
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Oh man, that sounds like a good script idea for when Naigon has to start shooting his TV spots...
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it would seem to me that RGB colour mixing may lead to even brighter blades as again it seems you can actually produce WHITE from these three primary colours, something many people already knew .... i personaly dont know if the lumin intensity of an RGB WHITE would match that of a dedicated WHITE LED.? but if it did you could lightly tint the white to your chosen colour which could work great as lightsabers from the movies are predominantly white with a coloured after glow , these are just a few random thoughts that more experienced people might find interesting but the idea would mean that 3 DIES would be running together and im unsure that igniter or any current sound board can do that.?
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it would seem to me that RGB colour mixing may lead to even brighter blades as again it seems you can actually produce WHITE from these three primary colours, something many people already knew .... i personaly dont know if the lumin intensity of an RGB WHITE would match that of a dedicated WHITE LED.? but if it did you could lightly tint the white to your chosen colour which could work great as lightsabers from the movies are predominantly white with a coloured after glow , these are just a few random thoughts that more experienced people might find interesting but the idea would mean that 3 DIES would be running together and im unsure that igniter or any current sound board can do that.?
You can run a white blade with Igniter if you want. You just set Red (255) Green (255) Blue (255) in your config file. Igniter can provide up to 2A to each of the R/G/B die. I think the LEDEngins will only take about 1400mA per die safely.
Also, if you like colors like mix Cyan, you can have a color that's (roughly) twice as bright as a single die color. For my super bright cyan, I just set Blue (255) and Green (255). If you want to bump up the brightness a little more but not go too far from cyan, you can just set it to Blue (255) Green (255) Red (75). Then you just keep bumping Red up until you're still happy with it and it's not too washed out.
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it would seem to me that RGB colour mixing may lead to even brighter blades as again it seems you can actually produce WHITE from these three primary colours, something many people already knew .... i personaly dont know if the lumin intensity of an RGB WHITE would match that of a dedicated WHITE LED.? but if it did you could lightly tint the white to your chosen colour which could work great as lightsabers from the movies are predominantly white with a coloured after glow , these are just a few random thoughts that more experienced people might find interesting but the idea would mean that 3 DIES would be running together and im unsure that igniter or any current sound board can do that.?
You can run a white blade with Igniter if you want. You just set Red (255) Green (255) Blue (255) in your config file. Igniter can provide up to 2A to each of the R/G/B die. I think the LEDEngins will only take about 1400mA per die safely.
Also, if you like colors like mix Cyan, you can have a color that's (roughly) twice as bright as a single die color. For my super bright cyan, I just set Blue (255) and Green (255). If you want to bump up the brightness a little more but not go too far from cyan, you can just set it to Blue (255) Green (255) Red (75). Then you just keep bumping Red up until you're still happy with it and it's not too washed out.
Rezolution is correct, a white blade running all three die of an RGB will be a bright whitish color, and should be about 3 times as bright as the single die equivalent. If you wanted this level of brightness but still wanted a FoC you could still use the FoC - to run the 4th die of an LEDEngin. Remember that each die of a LEDEngin takes about 1A to run, so you would be looking at 4A total here, so make sure your battery pack can handle the output.
Also, don't forget that you don't actually have to run the RGB LEDs, but using those gives you the widest color choices. If you always wanted a vividian blade you could use the green die on main, white on color2 and blue on color3. Then, settings of 255, 255, 0 for running would give vividian and 255,255,255 for the flash would give you a more cyanish clash. With this combo other fonts could still do blue and green shades like cyan, but you would lose all the reddish shades including purple.
Thanks Rezolution for taking the time to respond to all the questions and generally doing a great review. That 10w LEDEngin sure does look good, and your "stunt" Anakin sure has taken on a new life!
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There are some other neat things you can do with the RGGB LEDEngin for people that want a double brightness GREEN saber. You could just hook up G/G/B, then run it at 255/255/0 (pure green) or 255/255/255 (for a really interesting sea-foam green).
Someone also mentioned earlier about running a white diode with a color filter. You could do something REALLY interesting by running an XM-L T6 diode with two of board leads hooked up in parallel (main led lead plus one color led.lead at 255/255) Then you could power the T6 at 4Amp, each trace providing 2A (config set to 2000mA per path)... If you wanted you could place a Lee filter over the XM-L and you'd have somewhere over 1000 lumens, minus whatever you lose from the Lee filter. To focus the XM-L, you'd just have to get it mounted on a star, then get the 8.5 degree optic and lens holder.
Having 3 constant current drivers at up to 2A each is really opening up a whole new world of combinations :)
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That 10w LEDEngin sure does look good, and your "stunt" Anakin sure has taken on a new life!
An unfortunate side effect of the Igniter/LEDEngin combination is that the Anakin now scares small children.
LoL
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An unfortunate side effect of the Igniter/LEDEngin combination is that the Anakin now scares small children.
LoLz
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thats some very interesting replies, im still under the impression that the CF5xxx runs 2DIEs for main blade colour and 2 for FOC but again i could be mistaken .... ive recently purchased a few LEDENGIN ... RGBW__RGBA__RGGB. and hope to start playing around with colour mixing next year and the igniter board seems like it makes this process very easy which suites me fine. :)
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thats some very interesting replies, im still under the impression that the CF5xxx runs 2DIEs for main blade colour and 2 for FOC but again i could be mistaken .... ive recently purchased a few LEDENGIN ... RGBW__RGBA__RGGB. and hope to start playing around with colour mixing next year and the igniter board seems like it makes this process very easy which suites me fine. :)
Not in the same way. With the CF, you're talking about either wiring the dies to the same pad(s) or using power extenders. Igniter has on-board support for three dies plus FoC.
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thats some very interesting replies, im still under the impression that the CF5xxx runs 2DIEs for main blade colour and 2 for FOC but again i could be mistaken .... ive recently purchased a few LEDENGIN ... RGBW__RGBA__RGGB. and hope to start playing around with colour mixing next year and the igniter board seems like it makes this process very easy which suites me fine. :)
Not in the same way. With the CF, you're talking about either wiring the dies to the same pad(s) or using power extenders. Igniter has on-board support for three dies plus FoC.
I thought tru-color was an add-on board...
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thats some very interesting replies, im still under the impression that the CF5xxx runs 2DIEs for main blade colour and 2 for FOC but again i could be mistaken .... ive recently purchased a few LEDENGIN ... RGBW__RGBA__RGGB. and hope to start playing around with colour mixing next year and the igniter board seems like it makes this process very easy which suites me fine. :)
Not in the same way. With the CF, you're talking about either wiring the dies to the same pad(s) or using power extenders. Igniter has on-board support for three dies plus FoC.
I thought tru-color was an add-on board...
Your mixing things up. Igniter itself has three pads for dies and one for FoC. TruColor is an add-on board for color mixing.
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thats some very interesting replies, im still under the impression that the CF5xxx runs 2DIEs for main blade colour and 2 for FOC but again i could be mistaken .... ive recently purchased a few LEDENGIN ... RGBW__RGBA__RGGB. and hope to start playing around with colour mixing next year and the igniter board seems like it makes this process very easy which suites me fine. :)
Not in the same way. With the CF, you're talking about either wiring the dies to the same pad(s) or using power extenders. Igniter has on-board support for three dies plus FoC.
I thought tru-color was an add-on board...
Your mixing things up. Igniter itself has three pads for dies and one for FoC. TruColor is an add-on board for color mixing.
Nailedit.
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Oh, got it. So you can drive 3 pads... Wait... Give it to me again. What can you do with the regular board and what can you do with the tru-color? If you can drive 3 dice at a separate level each, what is tru-color for?
I has lost my understanding. i apologize for my confusion, guess i didn't know this board as well as i thougt.
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TruColor allows for software driven color mixing. That's where the 0-255 values for each die come in to play. You need TruColor to enable color mixing sans resistors.
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That i got, but are all 3 pads driven as one pad without trucolor? that is the part i was confused on.
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ermmmm, add-on board, tru-colour mixing, = many colour possibilities , ...it works for me. ;)
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In short (and Naigon can correct me if I'm wrong)
The main board only includes a current driver for the main LED. If you want to drive the other two die, you can either buy the TruColor add on board, or you can wire up your own driver circuit with two transistors and a bunch of resistors. If you use TruColor, you can use 0-255 for configuring the LED. If you use your own transistors, from reading the manual, it looks like you have to use percentage values instead of the 0-255 setting.
For what the add-on board is going to cost (and how nicely it's made), it's really not going to be worth anyone's time(or money) to wire up the extra driver circuits yourself ;)
Not to mention, if you got the values wrong or had a bad solder joint, you could possibly blow up your diode.
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I've just re-read the manual again, specifically what you need to do if you want to build the NPN circuit yourself (instead of buying the add-on board)... For what is needed to DIY (accurate meter for current readings, time to test color mixing with setting up resistors and mA values, messing with percentage values) everyone will be better off just buying the TruColor board.
Trust me, even reading how to DIY was a PITA. LoL
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okay, now I got it. Lol, I went to look for the manual to educate myself before I realized it isn't public yet.
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I've just re-read the manual again, specifically what you need to do if you want to build the NPN circuit yourself (instead of buying the add-on board)... For what is needed to DIY (accurate meter for current readings, time to test color mixing with setting up resistors and mA values, messing with percentage values) everyone will be better off just buying the TruColor board.
Trust me, even reading how to DIY was a PITA. LoL
QFT man! Scott provides great explanations and illustrations for nearly everything from wiring to configuring, but even with the diagrams staring me in the face I was still all ??? ??? on doing it myself, so just waited for the addon to arrive.
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In short (and Naigon can correct me if I'm wrong)
The main board only includes a current driver for the main LED. If you want to drive the other two die, you can either buy the TruColor add on board, or you can wire up your own driver circuit with two transistors and a bunch of resistors. If you use TruColor, you can use 0-255 for configuring the LED. If you use your own transistors, from reading the manual, it looks like you have to use percentage values instead of the 0-255 setting.
For what the add-on board is going to cost (and how nicely it's made), it's really not going to be worth anyone's time(or money) to wire up the extra driver circuits yourself ;)
Not to mention, if you got the values wrong or had a bad solder joint, you could possibly blow up your diode.
This is pretty much correct. The main board has only one constant current driver for your main LED, and one built-on MOSFET for driving the Flash pin. This is basically like CF + power extender board built on. You can run two dies off the main constant current drive to get a mixed color, but it won't be controllable via the software. IE, if you hook blue and green dies in series and conect the negitive to the LED- pad on the board you will always have a sky-blue/cyanish color, regardless of what color values you choose in the config (color values just act as dimmers at that point). It works but again this is a hard-coded color as it has been.
The color1 and color2 pins off the Igniter(tm) board drive small power, so you could use them directly on small 3mm or 5mm LEDs (ie color changing crystal chamber or extra accent LEDs that pulse with the blade) but to actually get the TruColor(tm) feature you need either the TruColor(tm) add-on board or to create an NPN circuit yourself. It is highly recommended to just get the addon, it is a constant current driver, is much smaller and requires no big 3w resistors.
The percentage is for the master.ini value. With Igniter(tm) there are two main values associated with the LED, one in the master.ini file and one in each config.ini file for each font. The master.ini value is either the MA rating for the constant current driver, or if you are using an NPN circuit (like the FoC input) you have a percentage to run it at. Then in each config you control the color from 0-255, where 0 is off and 255 is max brightness, up to the value in master.ini. The value in Master.ini should be set before you even turn on your board to an appropriate value or you will blow your LED! Once it is set correctly, you can set the color values to anything you want and never worry about blowing your LED anymore (unless you switch LEDs, in which case you need to re-set the master first).
The mA rating is easy to set, its the rating for your LED. Percentage should start at 10% and work up to where you are getting the correct amperage with a multimeter when the config.ini is at 255. Due to this complexity it is highly recommended to stick with the TruColor(tm) addon, though for the actual FoC pin you have no choice but to use the percentage in the master.ini file.
Hope that clears it up, but maybe now its as clear as mud? :)
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So what you're saying is... people should just buy the TruColor board! Well, if you aren't saying that, Gil and I certainly are.
LoL
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works for me. cleared it up perfectly. thanks naigon.
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right, so for most people and especially for those and MYSELF with extremely limited knowledge .....its the ADD ON BOARD.? :D
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..and for those with vast amounts of knowledge that don't want to waste their time making up a custom mini-board when they can just buy something priced fairly that's going to save them an hour or two of work.
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Hey everyone, I've been really busy the past couple of weekends digging in the code and messing with the hardware fixing all the reported issues. So far all the following issues that have been reported are now fixed:
-Audio plays too slowly.
-Audio has a distinct annoying whine sound if the LED is running.
-Blade effects are jerky, clock-internal looking or generally hideous.
Pretty much the only thing that wasn't fixed is the little bit of noise that happens when selecting new fonts, and the bit of noise that happens when the audio is a very quiet sound. IMO neither are ship stopping so I will address these two very minor grips in the next release.
Of course the other downside is the parts required for all these fixes costs more, so I may have to increase the price of the main board by $3.00-$5.00 more than my target price, but the clarity in audio you gain is quite worth it. I just won't cheap out on the parts, I already have trouble sleeping lol!
..and for those with vast amounts of knowledge that don't want to waste their time making up a custom mini-board when they can just buy something priced fairly that's going to save them an hour or two of work.
This is correct; in fact the TruColor(tm) board not only saves you time but is a true constant current driver, so you will get much better battery life, your blade colors will hold through the battery depletion, and you don't need an annoying resistor that takes up too much space. I highly highly recommend just using this.
But the main reason I had to post again today was to announce the winner!!! If you remember, there was a contest like 6 pages back or so. At any rate, we had Gil and then Vader's Vault for 1 and 2, so that eliminated two folks. As it turns out, two of the four finalists had #2 as Gil and #3 as Vader's Vault, so we actually have a two way tie between:
Scorpion
and
Sunrider
Congratulations, you guys both won the first run spot and the discount. I believe I had a number picked, but will just say that the discount is a free TruColor(tm) board for the price of the main board. Hope that sounds good to you guys :) Contact me via PM if you want more details.
Thanks again everyone, and I should have some more video updates soon.
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1st time iv won anything lol
cant wait for this thanks again ;D
whens the 1st run due
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Cool, a first for me too. ;D I am interested to see the latest info on the boards.
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congratulations sunrider, scorpion ... :)
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Awesome! we are getting closer
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I concur.... Congrats Sunrider and Scorpion!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Very cool Congratz guys
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Cool, a first for me too. ;D I am interested to see the latest info on the boards.
yep i would like to see a rundown of igniters specification , similar to the rundown of the crystal focus board you can read in ervs shop, that would be really usefull... and not fogetting the tru colour add on board. :)
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I'm sure he isn't planning on releasing without giving us a specific rundown guys, but give him time to hone the coding and make sure he has the logistics all figured out. ;)
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thats true ,,, i think at present theres still some fluidity on igniter that isnt set solid so a FINAL spec list as not been released...but as you say pretty soon. ;)
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The last version I went through held up under the led load I demanded of it without folding, so we are indeed getting nearer!
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Congrats Scorpion and Sunrider!
Couldn't have gone to two greater saber-lovers!
Can't wait to hear what you both think of this new board when you get a chance to use it.
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cheers guys
thanks space ;)
yeah i got a saber for this to go in which should spice things up nicely
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I'm sure he isn't planning on releasing without giving us a specific rundown guys, but give him time to hone the coding and make sure he has the logistics all figured out. ;)
Indeed. Personally I can wait; as long as it comes out ready to go without any bugs. This is going to be awesome.
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Of course the other downside is the parts required for all these fixes costs more, so I may have to increase the price of the main board by $3.00-$5.00 more than my target price, but the clarity in audio you gain is quite worth it. I just won't cheap out on the parts, I already have trouble sleeping lol!
But the main reason I had to post again today was to announce the winner!!! If you remember, there was a contest like 6 pages back or so. At any rate, we had Gil and then Vader's Vault for 1 and 2, so that eliminated two folks. As it turns out, two of the four finalists had #2 as Gil and #3 as Vader's Vault, so we actually have a two way tie between:
Scorpion
and
Sunrider
Indeed Naigon, if a great sound even cost $30 more than I gladly pay the extra for it.
This is afterall a SOUNDBOARD haha. ;)
Again I want to point out what an incredible good job you've done and still doing to this 'board'.
You're inspirational inventive.
@ Scorpion and Sunrider; :D :D :D CONGRATULATIONS!!! :D :D :D
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Well I'm a little late to the party on this one - but well done naigon! Looking forward to seeing these in the "wild" ;)
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I'm back after a lot of weeks of extreme work, mostly my day job but I spend a lot of time on Igniter(tm) as well. I'll talk about those updates, but first let's see something a bit lighter.
IndustrialAction was kind enough to start working on fonts for Igniter(tm) since he wanted to start dabbling in fonts anyways and sent me a package he wanted me to try out. I finally got around to it, and let me tell you he did a great job on this. All captured sounds, great quality, and barely needing any work (a trim here a volume increase there, ect). I then provided the font.wav description file, and with that I present "Now That's What I Call Racin'"
On to the updates...
Again I really want to thank the folks like Vader's Vault, Gil, Rezolution, Amp and the other folks that have been testing my board for me. They found a lot of things that needed to be fixed that were fixed, so now we are to a quality releasable build. But special thanks to Alan and his 'dog ears" because he really gave the board an extensive work-over, and really gave me feedback I needed, mainly the audio sound issue and the LED pulsing issue. The latter was fixed the week after I got his call, but the former seemed to get even worse. Finally after going back to the drawing board many times I came up with the solution: TruMix(tm) with Auto-Compressing Technology(tm).
Now when TruMix(tm) is mixing the sounds, the volume is auto scaled to match the sounds that are being played. What this means is that the hum can start a bit louder (60% max seems good from testing) but when the other loud sound comes in the sounds are scaled according to there relative volumes. Its kind of like adding the compression I talked about to each file on the fly. The result is quality audio with no pops, whine, ect. As an added benefit, this means that any existing font can be placed on there and pretty much work with just a few volume tweaks (change hum to 60%, rest to 95%) and they won't pop or crack. Yes, the hum may sound too loud since the hum is also mixed in the original sounds (I found this especially noticeable with swings) but at least they sound pretty good, unlike before where a lot of changes were necessary.
The only downside to the new Auto-Compressing Technology(tm) is that there is no real volume of individual files :( An overall volume control is being examined for next release.
At any rate, sorry for the long babble, and hope I didn't bore anyone too much with technology. I'm really not trying to brag, I just want everyone to have an open and honest discussion about the board and want to let you know what it can and can't do.
Thanks again for all the support, I'll try to be a bit more regular in PMs, ect now that things will hopefully be slowing for the holidays. You guys are great and I'm happy you let me share this project from its inception until now.
Oh, and you may want the video link :)
Edit:
Two things I wanted to mention: 1) Buzzing noise during pod font is actually my speaker coming loose, you can see me push it back in the video. 2) Lower pitched buzzing noises are audible, but most high pitch noises are actually due to the NPN setup I'm using in this test hilt. For example, the saber player faint noise when the led comes on doesn't happen when using the main die or the TruColor(tm) board, but since I'm using the NPNs it does. Hopefully VV or someone that does have the color board can show this, otherwise I'll do it once I get another made up.
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Wow this board has really come a long way and your video shows so many features that it has.
Very nice. I can still make out some static but you do have that condenser mic so that's capturing absolutely everything.
Sounds really good though and my favorite part is the saber player and saber sounds can go on at the same time. That is great.
You've also done all this super fast in my opinion from start to almost finished version 1.
Really I feel your excitement and the board looks like a lot of fun.
Best of luck with this awesome new board!
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Just wanted to pop in and thank Naigon for helping finalize the font that I've been working on! As soon as I can get my hands on an Igniter(tm) I'll be able to test my work and bring more of them to the community.
I have created a website for fonts and blades. You can access the site here: http://IndustrialAction.weebly.com
Special thanks to Novastar and Alex Gordon for allowing me to host links to their work as well.
The CF/PC version of the pod racer font will be mixed in the next day or so and I'll offer it as soon as final testing is done (and when I pick which of the six hums I want to use for that version).
Thanks again, Naigon, for all of your hard work and dedication! These are definitely exciting times for the community.
//end thread-jack ;)
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nice comparison with the hasbro economy saber, igniter seems to have around twice the volume which is great, i also thought that the novastar font was a great way of illustrating that the sound speed issues have been improved by some pretty big margin,... i have absolutely no idea what you're talking about as regards sound compression and infact ANYTHING technical at all but i do know you are doing a brilliant job on this new sound board so keep it going. ;)
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I'm glad the testers were able to work the bugs out, and I look forward to their next reviews :)
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nice comparison with the hasbro economy saber, igniter seems to have around twice the volume which is great, i also thought that the novastar font was a great way of illustrating that the sound speed issues have been improved by some pretty big margin,... i have absolutely no idea what you're talking about as regards sound compression and infact ANYTHING technical at all but i do know you are doing a brilliant job on this new sound board so keep it going. ;)
I second this, especially the technically challenged part; I could write a poem about it as that's how my education went.
Igniter does much
pretty lights and many sounds
others will install.
It's a lame haiku, yet it does the trick.
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Very interesting stuff. Things are shaping up and it would be great to have another option for our sabers. This has much promise. Can't wait to see more of a final product!
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The day has come! After nine months of working tirelessly on this project and 28+ pages of discussion, ideas and encouragement from the community I am finally ready to release to you Ignitertm! Please check out the sales thread, but post comments here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33513.0
I'll be contacting Sunrider and Scorpion shortly, but assuming they want their spot and free TruColortm board then there are 18 slots available. Boards are now ready to go, I just need to finish touch-up on the add-on and clean up the manual a bit.
I'll also copy and past the specs for ease of reading:
- Supports 44100Hz1 and 22050Hz mono wav files.
- Supports TruMixtm with Auto-Compressing Technologytm which supports crystal clear mixing of sounds without the need to pre-mix them. This allows for any hum to be used with any other effect sound, allowing endless possibilities for sound font creation.
- Supports 9 different sound fonts, which can be used to store different sounds and different settings for blade effects, swing settings and clash settings.
- Supports up to 99 sounds of each effect per sound font. You will never again worry about hearing the same sound twice!
- Comes with onboard FLASH/F pin that can be used to drive one extra die of the Multi-Die Flash (tm). Using only this one makes the classic bling on cling effect :)
- Comes with COLOR1, COLOR2 and CRYSTAL outputs that can each be used to drive an LED or small rumble motor. The LEDs can then pulse and flash with the main blade, or they can just be static (coming on and off when the saber is "Ignited"). You can create amazing crystal chambers with these!
- Comes with 8 Accent LEDs pads that can be used to drive upto 8 Accent LEDs. Choose from one of the 8 patterns including "Random", where it cylcles through all patterns randomly. Patterns speed/effects are completely configurable, so you will never run out of fresh ideas here!
- Live the movies as you use Saber Cinematm; play your favorite tunes, and still use your lightsaber with light and effects sounds, all while the music is playing!
- Hardware specs: 3W @ 8ohm Audio amp, 2A LED driver on-board, MOSFET for driving 1-2 die in series for classic bling on cling, inputs for two momentary switches (main and aux), 8 outputs for driving small 2-3v accent LEDs, COLOR1, COLOR2, and CRYSTAL outputs for driving LEDs or small motors or for use with TruColortm add-on board.
With the TruColortm add-on board, you have the following additional benefits:
- Drive an RGB LED to experience TruColortm; now any blade color is ready via the config file.
- Experience Multi-Die Clashtm at its full potential. You can now have any color not only for your blade color, but for your bling-on-cling effects as well!
- Experience the Nine-in-Onetm saber - with 9 different banks you can have nine different blade colors and sounds to match. Create a dark, light, grey and any thing in between, all configurable via the config.ini file and selectable by simply pressing the aux button to get to the next font.
- Run all die off real 2A const current drivers. Not only does this help batter life but it garentees that your color will look the same through the entire range of colors.
1- 44100 works well, but on rare occasions I've heard some slight ticks when a lot of stuff is happening. On the Regal 1w you can't hear a difference anyways so I'm going to recommend sticking with 22050. However, for those with the new 2w speakers you may hear more fidelity. I recommend sound font makers make a 44100 and 22050 version of their fonts for Igniter(tm) since both work.
I can't wait to get more peoples opinions of my board. I hope you guys have as much fun playing with it as I did!
nice comparison with the hasbro economy saber, igniter seems to have around twice the volume which is great, i also thought that the novastar font was a great way of illustrating that the sound speed issues have been improved by some pretty big margin,... i have absolutely no idea what you're talking about as regards sound compression and infact ANYTHING technical at all but i do know you are doing a brilliant job on this new sound board so keep it going. ;)
I second this, especially the technically challenged part; I could write a poem about it as that's how my education went.
Igniter does much
pretty lights and many sounds
others will install.
It's a lame haiku, yet it does the trick.
SandpeopleArePeopleToo, this is awesome! I'm going to print it and hang it above my soldering station at home for inspiration. It's this kind of support that keeps me going!
Thanks everyone, and MTFBWY.
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I can't wait to get more peoples opinions of my board. I hope you guys have as much fun playing with it as I did!
nice comparison with the hasbro economy saber, igniter seems to have around twice the volume which is great, i also thought that the novastar font was a great way of illustrating that the sound speed issues have been improved by some pretty big margin,... i have absolutely no idea what you're talking about as regards sound compression and infact ANYTHING technical at all but i do know you are doing a brilliant job on this new sound board so keep it going. ;)
I second this, especially the technically challenged part; I could write a poem about it as that's how my education went.
Igniter does much
pretty lights and many sounds
others will install.
It's a lame haiku, yet it does the trick.
SandpeopleArePeopleToo, this is awesome! I'm going to print it and hang it above my soldering station at home for inspiration. It's this kind of support that keeps me going!
Thanks everyone, and MTFBWY.
Glad it fell upon welcoming ears; Igniter and TruColor are going into my vintage Heiland Synchronar build. What a year for sabers!
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Fantastic news! ;D Congratulations on the imminent launch of Igniter [tm]. 8)
PM sent for Canadian shipping quote so I can PayPal you correctly on launch day.
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This will be a good day for the community.
On a side note, I finally see where your loyalty lies when it comes to the force. A true Sith always invokes the rule of 2 :)
A master board (igniter), and his apprentice (trucolor)
and only 2 per customer.
Most excellent :)
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Wow! I don't have any spare money right now, but as soon as I do, you can count me in for one! I've just begun building a custom saber for myself and I've been scratching my head as to how to wire up a RGBA LED to do multiple colors and I see this!
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what fonts are on the card,?...im definitely no expert with sound cards but im assuming that igniterTM ;) can be configured simply to match ones needs ?...I.E just main LED, 1 accent for a crystal chamber and THATS IT if you wish ? although driving a motor is something i need....on a side note and im sorry if you have already said but .. what is the battery solution for igniterTM .?..i would assume its got both minimum and maximum voltage requirements and limits.
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what fonts are on the card,?...im definitely no expert with sound cards but im assuming that igniterTM ;) can be configured simply to match ones needs ?...I.E just main LED, 1 accent for a crystal chamber and THATS IT if you wish ? although driving a motor is something i need....on a side note and im sorry if you have already said but .. what is the battery solution for igniterTM .?..i would assume its got both minimum and maximum voltage requirements and limits.
The card will come pre-loaded with my test font (which is me saying swing 3, ect), Dark Apprentice, and a Saber Cinematm enabled font (probably with Dark Apprentice sounds). I'll be providing pretty much the entire directory as a zip online too, expect to see it uploaded to Industrial Action's site soon: http://industrialaction.weebly.com/. Having the SD card allows me to actually test your board with the card installed, so it will be complete plug and play for you once you receive it. Otherwise you'll need to format the card and copy the zip onto the card before it will even work, which is why I recommend the card.
Yes you can run just one LED and 1 accent LED or crystal led (There are 8 accent pads and a separate crystal LED pad, the latter will mimic the blade effects including the pulse when running and the fancy flickering for the Multi-Die Clashtm, the former does patterns and can be run during idle mode). It's all in the manual which I will put online probably tomorrow.
Battery solution needs to be between 6-9v. I highly recommend the 7.4 protected packs. If you don't use a protected pack any damage the occurs is not the responsibility of Naigon's Electronic Creations. Again the manual has all this info; I'll post that tomorrow (be warned, it is intense reading since there are so many configuration files available).
This will be a good day for the community.
On a side note, I finally see where your loyalty lies when it comes to the force. A true Sith always invokes the rule of 2 :)
A master board (igniter), and his apprentice (trucolor)
and only 2 per customer.
Most excellent :)
That's funny, I never even thought of it LOL! Actually I tend to lean heavily towards the light side, I would never want a dark side only saber which is why TruColortm is useful for me when friends come over, just use the dark font of a neutral saber when friends come over. I like your thinking thought, very humorous :)
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plug and play works for me everytime, :D as for the intense reading , that again suits me, i am a slow learner ;) but i do learn and extreme and caution are my watch words when dealing with electronics. :D..long live the dark side. :D
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(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa418%2Fnaigon%2FIgniter%2520tm%2520Batch%25201%2520photos%2Fth_Batch1-3.jpg&hash=f046270639dd438cbd474278a20ba2f4c38fc416) (http://s1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa418/naigon/Igniter%20tm%20Batch%201%20photos/?action=view¤t=Batch1-3.jpg)
;D ;D ;D
I'll be providing pretty much the entire directory as a zip online too, expect to see it uploaded to Industrial Action's site soon: http://industrialaction.weebly.com/. Having the SD card allows me to actually test your board with the card installed, so it will be complete plug and play for you once you receive it. Otherwise you'll need to format the card and copy the zip onto the card before it will even work, which is why I recommend the card.
Currently, files for Dark Apprentice™, Now That's What I Call Racing™ (and the CF/PC counterpart Pod Racer™) and All Too Easy™ are posted on the site. As soon as I get the latest ZIP from Naigon, I'll post that up as well. Depending on how the site does and the amount of traffic, I may need to upgrade it to a pro account which might change the URL but I'll let everyone know if and when that happens.
plug and play works for me everytime, :D as for the intense reading , that again suits me, i am a slow learner ;) but i do learn and extreme and caution are my watch words when dealing with electronics. :D..long live the dark side. :D
As a co-editor of the manual I can tell you that it is VERY comprehensive. There's a lot to read but that's only because there's so much you can do with this board. I would highly recommend printing it (if you have the paper) and keeping notes. It is amazingly flexible so the better informed the installer/user is, the more they'll enjoy their personal experience!
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Just wanted to respond to this thread as well since most of you check this one. I've update the rules on the sale thread, basically we are going to the model of you respond to the thread and then I'll contact you once all slots are filled. At that time payment will be expected immediately. Check the update here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33513.0
Sorry for the confusion.
Also, Scorpion has declined for this release, so there are now 19 slots available :) His discount still remains, but I'm sure some of you are excited to get a chance at one more slot :D
Thanks again folks!
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Man I wish I could afford this right now but my money is tied up in getting my car fixed right now.
Good stuff. I'm looking forward to future releases.
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Again the manual has all this info; I'll post that tomorrow (be warned, it is intense reading since there are so many configuration files available).
Can't stress this enough. If you pick up one of these boards and have it all wired up within 1 day and come posting about issues or problems or you can't do this or whatever, I'm totally gonna tell you to go back to the manual.
I can't tell you how many different times I contacted Scott with a question, only to then find the answer in the manual. Literally darn near every question I had that wasn't a bug was or is now part of the manual. Take it slow, take it a piece at a time. If you rush the whole thing and then dive into all the configs, you're gonna blow your mind to a primordial gelatinous gob. I have printed pages I referenced frequently, plus a copy of the manual on the ipad so it could be nearby when I was working. The manual is as important as your soldering gun. You won't get results without either one.
Take each section of configs one at a time, and understand what you're doing there (ie main LED, color led pads, accent pads, config settings for swing, clash blahblahblah etc) before moving on. If you have a question, look in the section of the manual pertaining to what you're doing, and 9.7 times out of 10 the answer will be there! I expect a few questions regarding the accent led setup as that totally threw me for a while :D
A quick Thanks to Scott too for allowing me to be a part of this for the last few months, it's been fun and you've made quite an interesting soundboard that I'm sure the fans are going to really enjoy.
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I'm just itching to get my hands on the manual. I'd love to read through it before I decide if I want to fight to get in on this first run or not.
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I'm just itching to get my hands on the manual. I'd love to read through it before I decide if I want to fight to get in on this first run or not.
It will be up tonight I promise scouts honor :) You should be able to get through it before the sale starts ;D Seriously though I am working on something that will clear up the confusion of the config settings, expect to see more details on that soon.
EDIT: Working hard on the manual, but all the pictures need to be updated too. I'm getting really tired so I'll probably need to finish up tomorrow night, sorry about that.
Also, I tested and cleaned up the TruColortm add-on board. I actually have a bunch of these since they are simple to make, unlike the main board which is a pain in the left buttock. Here's a pic of the add-ons with the last two main boards I finished up:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa418%2Fnaigon%2FIgniter%2520tm%2520Batch%25201%2520photos%2Fth_Photo_01C763D5-2E0F-46E2-7E10-97EC2B084BC4.jpg&hash=ee6d68a1f097cf54c86f11b10b84f28731308741) (http://s1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa418/naigon/Igniter%20tm%20Batch%201%20photos/?action=view¤t=Photo_01C763D5-2E0F-46E2-7E10-97EC2B084BC4.jpg)
Cheers,
Scott
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Here is the manual for those that were wanting it. I still need to update the front page some more, and I'm sure there are still some grammatical and spelling errors:
http://www.mediafire.com/file/qkb472q4lh4tyrj/Igniter.docx
Once I get my site up you can find it there but for now this will give you an idea of how to get going.
Happy reading!
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Thanks Naigon.
I'm sure it will be interesting, useful and even necessary reading but could you possibly also release it in a .pdf file format for those of us on older computers that dont have Office 2007 please?
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I think your manual is one of your best marketing tools...
Wow, the Igniter rocks!
I noticed some typos though... you collecting these or should we just hold our tongues?
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ive been offline for the last two days thanks to good old BT.,british telecom ...and i can't download the manual via my PS3... im off to visit a friend :D
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Thanks Naigon.
I'm sure it will be interesting, useful and even necessary reading but could you possibly also release it in a .pdf file format for those of us on older computers that dont have Office 2007 please?
If you're in a hurry to check it out, I believe you can use Google Docs to read it. Just download it to your desktop then upload it to Google Docs.
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I think your manual is one of your best marketing tools...
Wow, the Igniter rocks!
I noticed some typos though... you collecting these or should we just hold our tongues?
Yes, there are bound to be typos. If you find some just PM me page number and issue, and then I'll go through and fix them offline. Lets not fill the public forum with my lame typos ;D Thanks for checking it out and taking the time to help though!
Thanks Naigon.
I'm sure it will be interesting, useful and even necessary reading but could you possibly also release it in a .pdf file format for those of us on older computers that dont have Office 2007 please?
You can always download the word viewer, its free just like the Adobe reader. For some reason Microsoft doesn't do a good job advertising this, I guess its expected that you will have access to Word:
http://www.microsoft.com/download/en/details.aspx?displaylang=en&id=4
Cheers!
Scott
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I have tried to down load the Document many many times. it just keeps reloading the page and never starting the down load. can any one help?
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Nick... I tried sending it to your registered e-mail address...
Cheers
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well, 9.00am pst time ? i think , hope thats about 5.00pm in ENGLAND if im wrong ...someone put me right. :D..i still haven't managed to download the manual but thats not pressing ,AT THE MOMENT..just a last question about the sound ...can you lower the idle hum lower than the 60% setting you favor as this seems a little too loud for me and the 95% you recommend for the swings and clashes , why not 100%?.. will these be the settings on the us card you can supply ?..
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I was able to download it without a problem. :D
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when it comes to computers , well its king of noobs time for me, ..but with time i WILL sort it just as i will learn how to alter the configuration files on an sd card, ;) just a little common sense and alot of caution required :)
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just a last question about the sound ...can you lower the idle hum lower than the 60% setting you favor as this seems a little too loud for me and the 95% you recommend for the swings and clashes , why not 100%?.. will these be the settings on the us card you can supply ?
Let me clarify a bit. The 60% and 95% are values of the wav files themselves, not settings on the card. Every font I've created has the maxes set to these so fonts on the card and ones available for download are set like this. There is a setting in the config for the volumes of the hum and other effects humVolume and effectVolume respectively. However, these are actually their apparent volume in the mix, not really the overall volume per say, though overall volume is affected a bit by these. You can lower the hum value from 16 to 15 or 14, but any lower than that will degrade the audio quality too much and is not supported (and not allowed right now). I really recommend setting these to 16 for effect, and 15 or 16 for the hum. You can also just modify your hum01.wav, hum02.wav...humNN.wav files to be slightly quieter to achieve the same effect if 16 is too loud for you and 15 is too quiet say.
As for your concern about the hum being too loud, do you mean the overall volume being too loud or the hum will sound too loud in the mix? For the latter, TruMixtm with Auto-Compressing Technologytm does a great job of auto-reducing the level of the hum when a really loud sound comes in over top of it. Thus, even though the hum is set to 60% it will automatically decrease its overall loudness when the other sound is also being played since it is at a higher level (95% compared to 60%). This was that long technical post I made a week or so ago that was probably too boring for anyone to read :D. Even with the hum and effect volume at 16 the hum will scale down and the effect sounds great.
If you mean you want a quiet saber...well Ignitertm currently has no master volume, so unfortunately there is no stealth mode possible. I'm looking at overall volume for the next release/version.
The card will come pre-loaded with sounds and config settings that are setup to show some standard settings.
London is on UTC time correct? If so PST is 8 hours behind you, so 5:00pm is correct, so you shouldn't have to stay up late or get up early. I'll try to change my batch times so folks overseas have some better chances, I know Japan and Australia for instance are going to be in the middle of the night at these times.
Good luck tomorrow everyone who is interested. ;)
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I'm in NJ and just had daylight saving time. We gained an hour. So will it be ready at 11 pm or 12:00 pm?
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It will be and hour earlier than you first thought.
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lol
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lol.lol.lol. Thanks for nothing
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The release time will remain the same despite daylight savings guys. I don't see how that would affect anything. Its not like that timeslot suddenly went away after all :)
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Yeah Im having a brain fart over here for some reason ???
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It was all I could do to keep from buying some toast.... Which I am sure was the point.
Good luck to everyone
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I wish I hadn't picked up my CF a few months back or I would have snagged an igniter today.
Next time around naigon. My boys will be building sabers soon, as will my wife. ;D
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Wishing you the best with your release today ;D
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10 minutes away folks... once I announce that the thread is open please bid in the sales thread here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33513.0. Remember to put how many main boards (1 or 2) and what options you want (TruColortm add-on, uSD card), and your zip/country if not US. Limit 2 main boards per customer.
Good luck
Edit:
I need an admin to unlock my thread now so bidding can start. If this doesn't happen in the next 5-10 minutes I'll create a new sales thread and delete the old one. Sorry for the confusion.
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unlock it already!
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unlock it already!
I know! I'm dying over here! LOL
It's 412am here and i've been up waiting i just wanna get my order locked in for one of these sexy beasts!
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My F5 finger was getting tired too hehe ;-)
When its up be sure to yell out in your best Liam Neeson [or Sir Laurence Olivier] impression "Release The Kraken!" eh"? ;-)
Good Luck everyone
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Naigon... you change your mind and wanna keep em all to yourself?
(While you guys are readin' this... I am buying an Igniter!)
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Niagon... you change your mind and wanna keep em all to yourself?
My babies, they are so beautiful I can't let them leave me! ;D
The thread is now unlocked, sorry about that I don't actually have the privileges to unlock the thread.
Thanks!
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my eyes are fried,.. im off to get some sleep, all ive got to do now is wait for a pm then pay via paypal. :)
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London is on UTC time correct? If so PST is 8 hours behind you, so 5:00pm is correct, so you shouldn't have to stay up late or get up early. I'll try to change my batch times so folks overseas have some better chances, I know Japan and Australia for instance are going to be in the middle of the night at these times.
Good luck tomorrow everyone who is interested. ;)
At least it is the weekend so folks might have the opportunity to stay up late ;D if they are in an area that it is night time.
Good luck with this sale the boards look really cool. I like how the circuit board is reddish instead of the green color we have been used to. Sets it apart and looks cool too.
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Good luck with this sale the boards look really cool. I like how the circuit board is reddish instead of the green color we have been used to. Sets it apart and looks cool too.
Thanks for the words SpaceWindu, I too agree that Red is the way to go!
I've PM'ed everyone that has responded to the sales thread. Still more boards available folks, I'm a little surprised that more haven't sold.
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Hey!
Paid and ready to go!
I think you need your own section under the manufacturers area though... I want to start posting pics of new builds and retro fits with the Igniter. Plus, you will need a place for those who missed out on the first run to commiserate with each other.
Until then, I'll start a thread in the Mining Colony...
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33597.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33597.0)
I am sure a Mod can move it when its appropriate.
Igniter is the product... what was the "company" name again... Footman Forge?
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Hey!
Paid and ready to go!
I think you need your own section under the manufacturers area though... I want to start posting pics of new builds and retro fits with the Igniter. Plus, you will need a place for those who missed out on the first run to commiserate with each other.
Until then, I'll start a thread in the Mining Colony...
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33597.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33597.0)
I am sure a Mod can move it when its appropriate.
Igniter is the product... what was the "company" name again... Footman Forge?
I think to get in the manufacture's section you need to be inducted or something after selling a lot of stuff. First I'd need to get in the Mining Colony which is what I'd really like. For now you can just post your stuff under the gallery section, showing that its an Ignitertm build.
I totally forgot to mention my company name, lol! It's in the manual though in small print somewhere... it's called Naigon's Electronic Creations. Yar Nala did that and is now working on the company logo, didn't quite get it finished to go in the manual though. His work is amazing for anyone that wasn't sure. His payment is also boxed up and ready to ship :)
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Dak-Tari, you cannot post in the Mining Colony area unless you, yourself, are a Mining Colony member. Your thread has been moved to the Forum Gallery ;)
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Roger... wasn't sure where to put it, should have check first... sorry!
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No worries at all :).
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Payment sent.
Thank you for and Congratulations on the launch of Igniter [tm].
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What is a good RGB LED to use with the Igniter? I want to have one on hand by the time the board shows up?
Thanks, in advance!
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Ledengin 10w rgba is what I would try. Or for those wanting something more challenging the 40w. ;D ;D
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niagon, as recommended the LEDENGIN -RGBW ,... i still need to pay for my board so im a little worried at the moment ..scott pm ASAP while my internet...i is still up.
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The 10W LEDengin RGBW is an excellent choice. Mouser is out of stock but you can back order them.
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40 watt LED .?.. i can't wait to see how you configure that using igniter,?.. your demo of that LED looked fantastic , BUT so far beyond my skills , well you just wouldn't believe it. :D.... payment sent... AT LAST. :D
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TCSS will soon be carrying the Petit Crouton with FoC so can be expected to stock LEDs to take advantage of that new feature soon as well and a RGBW would be a logical choice and the LEDEngin a logical manufacturer since its use is already understood and established in sabers.
Igniter users should also benefit from the coming availability of such LEDs at the hobby's most prominent supplier soon. Everybody wins eh?
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last time i looked only 7 boards were left, im certainly happy i got one as i can only see great fun from experimenting with igniter. after reviewing the threads and vids im beginning to understand what certain folks have said regarding igniters need for a skilled, accomplished and dedicated sound designer to help bring out the best sound performance from the board as the trumix feature will obviously require a different way of compiling the fonts than either the PC-U or the CFV-5 or even the obsidian board... dare i mention it.? ...i believe industrial action amongst others are working on different things and it would be very interesting to hear their thoughts on this subject.... obviously novastar as tailored his work to the CF but i would certainly like to listern to his thoughts on trumix given his colossal experience in this field.
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Actually with Naigon's last tweaks before release, making fonts is much easier. I'll work on a tutorial and post it up soon.
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Yes I received my Ignitor today and Looks Nice especially for the First Run .
The Board appears very easy to work with (No Tight Solder Spots ) Just Very Comforting
Thanks Niagon 8)
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Actually with Naigon's last tweaks before release, making fonts is much easier. I'll work on a tutorial and post it up soon.
I look forward to some of these fonts coming up, as that's a concern for me- not a deterrent, as I've got an install in process, but a concern as it comes up to the finish.
Is there a thread for fonts for igniter?
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you know, i believe someone may have posted their own site dealing with igniter dedicated fonts but i can't remember who and i could be wrong about this, however again after reviewing naigons last vids im pretty sure he was saying you could use fonts not specifically designed for igniter,but guess what ? i may have misunderstood. :D
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IndustrialAction.weebly.com ;D
There used to be a perception that making fonts for Igniter was complicate but the process has been improved. I'll be on later w more
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Is there a thread for fonts for igniter?
Most excellent question. I'd definitely advocate for a thread for fonts for Igniter, as fonts do need to be tweaked to sound right with Igniter.
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you know, i believe someone may have posted their own site dealing with igniter dedicated fonts but i can't remember who and i could be wrong about this, however again after reviewing naigons last vids im pretty sure he was saying you could use fonts not specifically designed for igniter,but guess what ? i may have misunderstood. :D
I saw that too- that they worked, but not quite what they could be. I was hoping to get phoenix jedi's "Dr. Who" font, and "meow on clash" because with 9 fonts, how can you not?!?
meow -
Dr. Who - &hd=1
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dr who font .??? .. meow on clsh.? :D :D :D _ eh, if it they work for you.? why not.? ;) :D :D :D :D :D
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That Meow on Clash is fantastic. Umm, where do I get it from though? Can't seem to find it except on the YouTube videos.
Edit: Cancel that, just figured it out ;)
9 fonts on the same saber gives you a lot of variety :)
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IndustrialAction.weebly.com ;D
There used to be a perception that making fonts for Igniter was complicate but the process has been improved. I'll be on later w more
Yes, this is the place to go right now for fonts. As fonts are created, they will be put directly here (if done by me) or will be linked from here to their respective owner.
you know, i believe someone may have posted their own site dealing with igniter dedicated fonts but i can't remember who and i could be wrong about this, however again after reviewing naigons last vids im pretty sure he was saying you could use fonts not specifically designed for igniter,but guess what ? i may have misunderstood. :D
I saw that too- that they worked, but not quite what they could be. I was hoping to get phoenix jedi's "Dr. Who" font, and "meow on clash" because with 9 fonts, how can you not?!?
meow -
Dr. Who - &hd=1
This is correct. With the Auto-Compressing Technologytm you can now use any font. Just set the hum to 60% maximum (give or take) and the rest to 95%. However, as Sandpeople are People Too has mentioned, they won't sound as good as they could since the hum is premixed and they have not been EQ'ed specifically for Ignitertm. The biggest issue is that the swing sounds can be a bit too quiet since the hum is mixed in already and Ignitertm mixes it too. However these fonts will generally sound good and get you by until the respective fonts are made.
However never fear as fonts are one of my top 3 items on my TODO list, so these are being addressed. Expect to see a couple more fonts tailored for Ignitertm very soon :D
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Ahem......Hero......ahem.......Bespin.
;D
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Yes ESB fonts please. ;D ;D
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well, i don't expect to receive my igniter for another week or so by which time i will be unable to devote much time to it due to massive work pressure, :(.. however and in the meantime can you run sunriders dual speaker set-up .?which is 2 ...8 ohm speaker's and a ceramic capaciter which separates the higher and lower frequencies between the 2 speaker's.?... i can't remember if the speaker's are wired in parallel or series so i will need to read it again. :)..i do know that you have to be careful , i remember some people using 4 ohm speaker's with some of the older CF boards which was causing the amp to heat up which IS VERY BAD.
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Today I did a basic set up with Ignitor . Wow that was easy and fast ! The new sound fonts will be incredible 8) ;)
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Today I did a basic set up with Ignitor . Wow that was easy and fast ! The new sound fonts will be incredible 8) ;)
When you're done mKe sure to give us a video review if you can. You are the first of many to own this incredible new board. Many of us are waiting to see it in action.
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well, i don't expect to receive my igniter for another week or so by which time i will be unable to devote much time to it due to massive work pressure, :(.. however and in the meantime can you run sunriders dual speaker set-up .?which is 2 ...8 ohm speaker's and a ceramic capaciter which separates the higher and lower frequencies between the 2 speaker's.?... i can't remember if the speaker's are wired in parallel or series so i will need to read it again. :)..i do know that you have to be careful , i remember some people using 4 ohm speaker's with some of the older CF boards which was causing the amp to heat up which IS VERY BAD.
in a 2 speaker setup you definately need to be using the 8ohm speakers ran in parallel which will make the amp run at 4ohm which is supported (on cfv5)and give slightly increased volume because it essentially doubles the wattage output of the amp to each speaker. I don't know what igniter will support as far as ohm'age, as I do not own one nor do I have the manual. the problem with running the 4ohm speakers in parallel is that they will be running at 2ohm (which is not supported on cfv5) which will overheat the amp. however you can run the 4ohm speakers in series (oncfv5) because that will give an 8ohm output, however you will get decreased volume as it will half the wattage output to each speaker. now, the capacitors are used for frequency canceling one on the high end of the frequency range on one speaker and one on the opposite end of the spectrum on the other speaker for low frequency canceling. for more info on this consult with an automotive audio specialist. this is a common practice in highend car audio setups.. the capacitors are basically acting as cheap passive crossovers.
sorry for the threadjack., back on topic.
Sa'vage
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igniter supports 8 ohms _3 watts and your explanation seems accurate from what i can recall without refering to my notes .. this would lead me to believe that a two speaker set-up wouldn't be possible .??? well perhaps you could use two 16 ohm speaker's BUT this as the same problem of using the 2 _4ohm speaker's... NO benefit. :)
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does it support 8ohm only? Naigon?
and actually no. if you use 2 16ohm speakers (assuming you can find some in the right size) you would be at half ohm'age double volume same as you would be on the cf with the 2 8ohm speakers ran in parallel. and at 3watt nominal on one speaker it should already be obscenely loud anyway. just think if you could figure a way to run duals on it. OMG :o :o :o
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more than happy to stand corrected my friend :).. perhaps some further discussion folks .?
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does it support 8ohm only? Naigon?
The audio amp supports 4-16ohm, though I've only ever tested it with 8ohm loads. With 4ohm speakers at 7.5v you'd be putting out about 4w, so it would be really loud (1w speaker at 3w is already loud). However if your goal was clarity in the bass range than I think it would sound amazing.
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ok, :) amazing , i though 8 ohms and thats all .?.. 4__ 16 ohmS may certainly give some further scope for those more knowledgeable with sound solutions,... however this new information looks like i can try sunriders set up without fear of damaging the board.... always a solid reason to check your ideas. ;)
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wow.... NICE.... looks like this just got bumped to the top of my list when I get some funding. up to 4w you say, (raises eyebrow) "fascinating".
sounds perfect for a dual 2w 8ohm speaker setup ran in parallel at 4ohm.. yes indeed sunriders setup should work nicely on this, but I have an idea for my own setup as well. either should be obscenely loud.
thank you Naigon. both for this amazing board and for clarification. I will definately be getting one asap, just to dang broke right now.
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you are one of those more knowledgeable people i wrote of ,hope you share your ideas on this other sound solution once you manage to buy an igniter, volume is VERY important to be sure, especially clash sounds as this would help to overpower and disguise the actual click of the poly carbonate blade, but sound quality is also VERY important which is why im so eager to ..A.. try sunriders twin speaker set-up and ..B.. listern to some fonts especially created and designed for igniters trumixTM. capability.... get TWEAKING people. ;)
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does it support 8ohm only? Naigon?
and actually no. if you use 2 16ohm speakers (assuming you can find some in the right size) you would be at half ohm'age double volume same as you would be on the cf with the 2 8ohm speakers ran in parallel. and at 3watt nominal on one speaker it should already be obscenely loud anyway. just think if you could figure a way to run duals on it. OMG :o :o :o
You know that the speaker set up it already in the works. Parts are on the way so hold tight for that set up. I've been working on that as of last year. With the newer speaker specs and amp specs it will be very amazing!!
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=32297.msg450767#msg450767 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=32297.msg450767#msg450767)
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33600.msg451453#msg451453 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33600.msg451453#msg451453)
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just followed your thread link KNP , very interested in any work results you would care to share with us... i have absolutely NO CLUE as to what is meant by running speakers ..out of phaze ..? ??? but no matter. ;) best of luck.
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if you run them in the same resonance chamber you want to run them out of phase. meaning you run pos to pos neg to neg on one speaker and on the other you run pos to neg and neg to pos so the voice coils in each speaker dont fight each other and move the same direction if you have them facing oposing directions.
this is another common practice for car audio subwoffer enclosures. it prevents shortening the life of both speakers because they dont fight for the same air space in a sealed enclosure this way but rather work together in that air space.
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just WOW. :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o ... brilliantly SIMPLE explanation , even i understood that, thanks for the information. :D you really do learn something new everyday.
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My Igniter came today!
Sadly, I don't have a LEDEngin RGBW 10W to get it up and running. It seems that everyone is out of stock (though TCSS says they are coming soon)
Drat!
The Board looks cool, and everything is label nice and clear... should be an easy set up. I am sure to have lots of questions though.
Has anyone used a Cree RGBW 10W?
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Today I did a basic set up with Ignitor . Wow that was easy and fast ! The new sound fonts will be incredible 8) ;)
When you're done mKe sure to give us a video review if you can. You are the first of many to own this incredible new board. Many of us are waiting to see it in action.
Sorry Luke Skywalker : I am in the process of moving .Everything to do with sabers and boards were the first to be packed :P
Niagon may be working on his saber and could be posting something soon ;)
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Today I did a basic set up with Ignitor . Wow that was easy and fast ! The new sound fonts will be incredible 8) ;)
When you're done mKe sure to give us a video review if you can. You are the first of many to own this incredible new board. Many of us are waiting to see it in action.
Sorry Luke Skywalker : I am in the process of moving .Everything to do with sabers and boards were the first to be packed :P
Niagon may be working on his saber and could be posting something soon ;)
i thought vadersvault had a vid up already on youtube, i know i've seen it, they had it all wired up in their demo hilt.
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VV do have an evaluation of a pre release board but this one was a little buggy,.. i understand that naigon as improved igniter since then. :)
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VV do have an evaluation of a pre release board but this one was a little buggy,.. i understand that naigon as improved igniter since then. :)
ah, i didn't know it was a pre-release eval of the board. That does make sense though.
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VV do have an evaluation of a pre release board but this one was a little buggy,.. i understand that naigon as improved igniter since then. :)
ah, i didn't know it was a pre-release eval of the board. That does make sense though.
The VV You Tube for Ignitor
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I'll have the newest version installed into a saber made just for this board tonight to showcase alot of the features. If wife and kids allow, vid should be up by tomorrow.
Not alot of blinkies on this one though, as earlier tests I did showed alot of various blinking patterns.
Stay tuned ;)
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VV do have an evaluation of a pre release board but this one was a little buggy,.. i understand that naigon as improved igniter since then. :)
The improvements since that version are huge; to get the best sense of how it works now you need to see the video I did a couple weeks back here:
The audio is extremely improved with no audible whine and more clarity in mixing thanks to Auto-Compressing Technologytm. Also the LED effects are greatly improved, though you can't really see it on the video. Speed of the audio is just about perfect now as well.
However, this weekend I completely revamped my hilt (as that board I was using was a bit older hardware and had the NPN setup, which caused some extra noise) so hopefully I'll get a video of that later this week.
I'll have the newest version installed into a saber made just for this board tonight to showcase alot of the features. If wife and kids allow, vid should be up by tomorrow.
Not alot of blinkies on this one though, as earlier tests I did showed alot of various blinking patterns.
Stay tuned ;)
Awesome, can't wait to see it! Actually the firmware you have does have one minor bug that I've fixed in builds that went out to customers - when in Saber Cinematm and the blade is not on there is a bit of extra fuzz in the audio. Every board that I've sold has that issue cleaned up though.
What's your opinion of the new sound/LED effects, did you notice the improvement?
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well, i will try and access gills vid via a friends laptop as it will probably be up loaded through photo bucket ... im really eager to get hold of igniter as i believe it should be a colossal improvement over a hasbro economy board :D... im hoping to configure it at a low spec to keep it quick and simple.
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just followed your thread link KNP , very interested in any work results you would care to share with us... i have absolutely NO CLUE as to what is meant by running speakers ..out of phaze ..? ??? but no matter. ;) best of luck.
Yes running out of phase is a common practice but the most important thing we need to look into is getting a higher end amp on the boards that can handle a larger sample rate. Then we can push more watts and a much cleaner sound. These newer speakers can actually be pushed past the 3 watt mark as long as the THD does not run to high. With that said, we can even add a daughter EQ board to really dial in the correct freq. and even a high and low pass diode can be added to in the form of a cross over.
Once I am able to buy this board and my speakers show up from JQ then I will be testing ONLY the sound options and many types of set ups. I will be posting them as time goes on. ;D ;D ;D
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I have not found the phase difference to be noticeable ether way especially with the low and high drivers and the small encapsulated tweeters. The other things mentioned however would be awesome but not easy. :o
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well as much as I would have to agree with higher sample rates I would have to say that you can only get so loud before it becomes to loud, and if you want louder start looking at wireless options to output to stage audio (erv has this available) I think that the 2 and 3 watt amps that are available on the boards now is plenty enough output from the amps as far as power goes now its time to start looking at better and different speaker options (oh wait, we are) :o ;D :P. and adding a daughter board for an eq well unless you are a master of cram-fu I think its time to wake up ;D. hilts are already stuffed full of goodies as is, where you planning on putting another board, what are you willing to sacrifice to make room for it?
sunrider: yeah I can see the phase difference not really being an issue in our aplication. we arent really working with the huge amps and speakers moving massive amounts of air in a sealed enclosure. that being said though, I have a proto of an oposing speaker chassis sled that houses batt's and soundboard aswell sitting on my bench. this is going to be a self contained unit made to be plug and play so it can be used in multiple hilts, currently it is 4" in length. each speaker has a sealed chamber of its own to call home. I have my board all wired to test it, but I am waiting on funds to get batt's and I'm short one speaker.
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Did i miss the post on how to make sound fonts with the new and improved system for igniter?
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i won't use the quotes of either KNP or S ARCHANAS , but both of you have some great ideas and experimentation is a pathway to improvement so keep it going ... cram-fu,.?... yeah its getting tougher all the time, just read some of these threads,super high powered LEDS such as the ones sunrider plays with require special heat sinks and if you use lasers in your crystal chambers ;)? that's another pcb to find a space for...but worth it...even seeing some of these ideas on the bench is very useful because someone may see it and know a way to improve it but ARCHANAS point about drawing a line under what to leave out will always be valid ,..i have to say though its the power supply im having most issues with, :( ??? >:( :'( .. i can't believe that after all this time sunrider as NOT invented a fusion plasma power cell, adjustable between 5__ 25volts and 0.5__ and 45amps at a size of 30mm long and 25mm in diameter?. what's the problem ? whats taking so long? :D :D :D :D.... sorry for the thread jack and i can't wait to see GILLS vid later today ...hopefully.
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well as much as I would have to agree with higher sample rates I would have to say that you can only get so loud before it becomes to loud, and if you want louder start looking at wireless options to output to stage audio (erv has this available) I think that the 2 and 3 watt amps that are available on the boards now is plenty enough output from the amps as far as power goes now its time to start looking at better and different speaker options (oh wait, we are) :o ;D :P. and adding a daughter board for an eq well unless you are a master of cram-fu I think its time to wake up ;D. hilts are already stuffed full of goodies as is, where you planning on putting another board, what are you willing to sacrifice to make room for it?
sunrider: yeah I can see the phase difference not really being an issue in our aplication. we arent really working with the huge amps and speakers moving massive amounts of air in a sealed enclosure. that being said though, I have a proto of an oposing speaker chassis sled that houses batt's and soundboard aswell sitting on my bench. this is going to be a self contained unit made to be plug and play so it can be used in multiple hilts, currently it is 4" in length. each speaker has a sealed chamber of its own to call home. I have my board all wired to test it, but I am waiting on funds to get batt's and I'm short one speaker.
As far as waking up " ;D " I am. but just look at the daughter board for the igniter. For better sound some would not need the TrueColor functions, Like me. It also adds yet another feature for builders to offer. Plus if you have looked around the EQ PCB is really no bigger then the boards used to protect the rechargeable batteries. I am a fan of larger hilts anyway so I, as many others would not need to Cram-Fu anything. Here's an idea:
1) Hobby is growing.
2) sound is getting better
3) daughter boards are being used
Maybe it's time for a change in the hilt's ID (inside diam) to be looked at.
If that's what you like. but I am not a fan of Cram-fu. Yes it takes skill and hard work but I would give up most features for GOOD HI QUALITY sound.
Everyone has a choice when installing features and mine is changing fonts with a push of a button, volume, and sound quality. Make your choice because there is so much out there. Now I am not saying that all my sabers need ONLY great sound that's why you can buy many different sabers to suit your needs/wants. Testing will be done on this and it may or may not be for everyone. And as Vulcan said " It needs to be seen on the bench" as someone my find a use for it or be able to improve on it. My project will move forward as I have discussed all over the forum and someone with far better saber building skills will find that they want a loud, crystal clear, multi-speaker saber. ;D ;D ;D
@Archanas >:( >:( >:( ....................
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naigon as made no secret of igniter being geard towards custom designed hilts rarther than the cannon accurate movie sabers, infact he made a point of it , igniter is approx- 2.25 inches ..about 59mm. and without the trucolour add on it is the lowest height high end sound card around.?.. i personaly dont consider this length an issue as 18650s are about 70mm long so it could be mounted over them , granted you would need a saber around 40mm in diameter but.??? but the point im BADLY trying to make is the more special features , options and configurations we have for sabers the better and IMO we are already at the point where we have to pick and CHOOSE what electronic features to have and to leave out but isnt it great that with trucolour TM you can augment the lighting solution of your saber and again IMO it would be great to have the options of upgrading both the volume and clarifty of sound via an add on board , some of the ideas people put forward might prove too impractical but we should always encourage and applaud the effort. :)
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My Igniter came today!
Sadly, I don't have a LEDEngin RGBW 10W to get it up and running. It seems that everyone is out of stock (though TCSS says they are coming soon)
Drat!
The Board looks cool, and everything is label nice and clear... should be an easy set up. I am sure to have lots of questions though.
Has anyone used a Cree RGBW 10W?
They are about 50% as bright as a LEDEngin.
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I've only heard of the Igniter when VV evaluated it. It looks good so far. I've only read the first few pages of the thread and I REALLY liked the idea of playing the hum in the background and having the other sounds like clashes and blaster played over it. I honestly thought that the current soundboards like CF et al already did this so imagine my surprise. ;D
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naigon as made no secret of igniter being geard towards custom designed hilts rarther than the cannon accurate movie sabers, infact he made a point of it , igniter is approx- 2.25 inches ..about 59mm. and without the trucolour add on it is the lowest height high end sound card around.?.. i personaly dont consider this length an issue as 18650s are about 70mm long so it could be mounted over them , granted you would need a saber around 40mm in diameter but.??? but the point im BADLY trying to make is the more special features , options and configurations we have for sabers the better and IMO we are already at the point where we have to pick and CHOOSE what electronic features to have and to leave out but isnt it great that with trucolour TM you can augment the lighting solution of your saber and again IMO it would be great to have the options of upgrading both the volume and clarifty of sound via an add on board , some of the ideas people put forward might prove too impractical but we should always encourage and applaud the effort. :)
I agree. If you compare the size of say a Graflex, there is PLENTY of room for all the choices. Yes the True Color (TM) ;D add on is just one example and in the future I can see it being add to the main board rather then an add on. Boards have on board volume control so anything is possible to incorporate ON BOARD. plus the size of chips and electronics in general are still shrinking in size.
As far as movie correct sabers go even with ALL the features you can do you really are not limited to just a few and then settling for or giving up features. I'd gladly give up a recharge port (as Yoda does in the Greflex) for some trust fires if it means making room for TrueColor (TM), better sound, brighter LED's or whatever. IMO Obi never had to plug in his saber. LOL
I'm just saying that all the talent these people have to create all the options they are giving us and the size of what we want to add them too are fighting each other. I have an FX Vader and I have to say it is HUGE. You can fit a family of 4 in that hilt and still have guests over. ;D
I guess what I'm getting at is as cool as some features are I find no need for some in my own life. I do not battle for show so FoC isn't a must for me. It's COOL but something that I would use maybe 3 times a year. Now Color changing in the Config file and killer sound are on my must have list. Blinkies and buttons are very cool too but they don't really have to be left out if done right.
I can say that ALL these option are GREAT for our hobby and I can't wait for more.... ;D ;D ;D
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I know for a fact that Igniter(tm) is in at least one movie accurate saber ATM and it fits quite well ;)
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This is a bit silly. Of course it will fit in some movie accurate sabers. The Graflex builds, as an example, have a ton of room. However, it will not fit in many of the movie sabers, that is just factual ;). Earlier versions of other boards did not either ;). The board is too wide to fit in anything with a 1" bore, unless you bore it out further which is not possible with many builds. There is always going to be a compromise someplace. On certain builds, this will not be the board to use. That's OK, there are plenty of other builds where it will work just fine.
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Where there's a will, there's a way :D
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As far as waking up " ;D " I am. but just look at the daughter board for the igniter. For better sound some would not need the TrueColor functions, Like me. It also adds yet another feature for builders to offer. Plus if you have looked around the EQ PCB is really no bigger then the boards used to protect the rechargeable batteries. I am a fan of larger hilts anyway so I, as many others would not need to Cram-Fu anything. Here's an idea:
1) Hobby is growing.
2) sound is getting better
3) daughter boards are being used
Maybe it's time for a change in the hilt's ID (inside diam) to be looked at.
If that's what you like. but I am not a fan of Cram-fu. Yes it takes skill and hard work but I would give up most features for GOOD HI QUALITY sound.
Everyone has a choice when installing features and mine is changing fonts with a push of a button, volume, and sound quality. Make your choice because there is so much out there. Now I am not saying that all my sabers need ONLY great sound that's why you can buy many different sabers to suit your needs/wants. Testing will be done on this and it may or may not be for everyone. And as Vulcan said " It needs to be seen on the bench" as someone my find a use for it or be able to improve on it. My project will move forward as I have discussed all over the forum and someone with far better saber building skills will find that they want a loud, crystal clear, multi-speaker saber. ;D ;D ;D
@Archanas >:( >:( >:( ....................
oh come on now dont frown at me, I was simply trying to point out the reality in a humorous manner. and I am certainly not trying to discourage anyone on trying something new, such as an eq board. although I feel that an add on amp using the onboard amp as a preamp would be more practical option than an eq, but why not both on the same add on board. but there again we would be stuck looking for new speakers that could handle more of a load in the same size footprint. heck even with an eq we mostlikely will be searching for a higher fidelity speaker that could handle more wattage, otherwise we are going to have all kinds of distortion just trying to make simple little tweaks because if you try to turn up a certain frequency you are essentially increasing the power to just that specific frequency so you are going to have to turn down your main volume to rid yourself of that distortion making the rest of your sounds softer in the process...
heck I am all for having the best and loudest sound possible, but I have small hands and dont want to try to fumble arround trying to spin or duel with a "fat" hilt just so I can have it. but yeah options are nice. that being said, the 3w amp on this board will already overdrive the new 2w 8ohm speakers available to us and if running a dual speaker setup would push the amp up to the 4w max on this board which is twice the wattage cap of the speakers at half the resistance so don't complain when you start blowing speakers especially when trying to boost the volume of specific frequencies with an eq. "yes you can expect this to happen". but please continue to work on these new toys. this is what continues the hobby moving forward.
I support what you are doing I just want to make sure you are fully aware of what it is you are actually trying to accomplish and some of the consequences to expect in doing so. personally I find eq's to be more trouble than they're worth, and so did the audio industry as a whole which is why the ended up getting all but phased out of existance. yes there are still some floating arround but you don't generally find them in any high end audio equipment for the most part, aside from the pre programed ones that allow you to select settings like "pop" "jazz" "rock" "club" type settings. most people are not that adept at setting audio settings on eualizers so they were replaced with the perset options. adjusting an eq takes a certain degree of experience which most ppl do not posess.. heck I have the experience and still ended up making things sound worse most of the time, which is why I quit installing them in any of my custom builds.
and you are right, what you put in your hilt may or may not be the same as what I put in mine and that IS what makes each and every one of our sabers CUSTOM and UNIQUE.
personally I would like to see more wireless options such as maybe bluetooth transmitter (so I can link to my phone and plug in to my car stereo and play in the parking lot for show) can you say "streaming" lightsaber battles on the interweb? ;)
my opinion if you want better quality sound than what is available, push for a board that supports 32bit sound at 44100 then start considering the eq or add on amp if your not hapy.it would be much more practical to have the highest quality sound firmware possible before you try to push the limits of the hardware that is available. "dont put the cart before the horse"
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As far as waking up " ;D " I am. but just look at the daughter board for the igniter. For better sound some would not need the TrueColor functions, Like me. It also adds yet another feature for builders to offer. Plus if you have looked around the EQ PCB is really no bigger then the boards used to protect the rechargeable batteries. I am a fan of larger hilts anyway so I, as many others would not need to Cram-Fu anything. Here's an idea:
1) Hobby is growing.
2) sound is getting better
3) daughter boards are being used
Maybe it's time for a change in the hilt's ID (inside diam) to be looked at.
If that's what you like. but I am not a fan of Cram-fu. Yes it takes skill and hard work but I would give up most features for GOOD HI QUALITY sound.
Everyone has a choice when installing features and mine is changing fonts with a push of a button, volume, and sound quality. Make your choice because there is so much out there. Now I am not saying that all my sabers need ONLY great sound that's why you can buy many different sabers to suit your needs/wants. Testing will be done on this and it may or may not be for everyone. And as Vulcan said " It needs to be seen on the bench" as someone my find a use for it or be able to improve on it. My project will move forward as I have discussed all over the forum and someone with far better saber building skills will find that they want a loud, crystal clear, multi-speaker saber. ;D ;D ;D
@Archanas >:( >:( >:( ....................
oh come on now dont frown at me, I was simply trying to point out the reality in a humorous manner. and I am certainly not trying to discourage anyone on trying something new, such as an eq board. although I feel that an add on amp using the onboard amp as a preamp would be more practical option than an eq, but why not both on the same add on board. but there again we would be stuck looking for new speakers that could handle more of a load in the same size footprint. heck even with an eq we mostlikely will be searching for a higher fidelity speaker that could handle more wattage, otherwise we are going to have all kinds of distortion just trying to make simple little tweaks because if you try to turn up a certain frequency you are essentially increasing the power to just that specific frequency so you are going to have to turn down your main volume to rid yourself of that distortion making the rest of your sounds softer in the process...
heck I am all for having the best and loudest sound possible, but I have small hands and dont want to try to fumble arround trying to spin or duel with a "fat" hilt just so I can have it. but yeah options are nice. that being said, the 3w amp on this board will already overdrive the new 2w 8ohm speakers available to us and if running a dual speaker setup would push the amp up to the 4w max on this board which is twice the wattage cap of the speakers at half the resistance so don't complain when you start blowing speakers especially when trying to boost the volume of specific frequencies with an eq. "yes you can expect this to happen". but please continue to work on these new toys. this is what continues the hobby moving forward.
I support what you are doing I just want to make sure you are fully aware of what it is you are actually trying to accomplish and some of the consequences to expect in doing so. personally I find eq's to be more trouble than they're worth, and so did the audio industry as a whole which is why the ended up getting all but phased out of existance. yes there are still some floating arround but you don't generally find them in any high end audio equipment for the most part, aside from the pre programed ones that allow you to select settings like "pop" "jazz" "rock" "club" type settings. most people are not that adept at setting audio settings on eualizers so they were replaced with the perset options. adjusting an eq takes a certain degree of experience which most ppl do not posess.. heck I have the experience and still ended up making things sound worse most of the time, which is why I quit installing them in any of my custom builds.
and you are right, what you put in your hilt may or may not be the same as what I put in mine and that IS what makes each and every one of our sabers CUSTOM and UNIQUE.
personally I would like to see more wireless options such as maybe bluetooth transmitter (so I can link to my phone and plug in to my car stereo and play in the parking lot for show) can you say "streaming" lightsaber battles on the interweb? ;)
my opinion if you want better quality sound than what is available, push for a board that supports 32bit sound at 44100 then start considering the eq or add on amp if your not hapy.it would be much more practical to have the highest quality sound firmware possible before you try to push the limits of the hardware that is available. "dont put the cart before the horse"
First off the >:( >:( >:( is just good clean banter. As far as the output doubling with the dual speaker set up that will be controlled. If you look the Igniter board can do 4 or 8 Ohm's thus the 3w output isn't really in danger. My EQ suggestion is a 3 band EQ that even my child can work. EQ's are NOT as obsolete as you say. They may not have a place in HOME theaters as they used to but EQ's are still the go to piece in ANY concert, pro audio, or car set up. Anyways. If one sound font maker likes bass then their fonts will sound have to much bass for a person that likes highs in their swing or hum. Plus it was just an Idea rather then using diodes to use as a crossover.
There are plenty of amp options out there that support 32bit 44k specs and I personally can only hope that one of the board makers will switch out the 16bit soon. ;D ;D ;D
I love the Stuff......
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my area of expertise is car audio. not home audio. so on that note I don't know a single installer that uses eq's anymore they are simply outdated compared to the technology that is currently available today and have been for quite some time. and I was the one that asked the 4 or 8ohm question about the igniter board so I knew that aswell. and if you take 2 8ohm 2 watt speakers and run them in parallel you will be pushing 4ohm which is less resistance than 8ohm so that allows the amp to essentially double its output (covered this already too) to each speaker which would be 4watt, which is if im not mistaken Naigon said would be the absolute max ( I would have to go back and reread) for the onboard amp. and that would be rms not max so peaking the amp with say a blaster block which would require more output from the amp over the hum if you are already running it at its max at rms would drive the amp well over 4 watts most likely voiding any type of warranty.. so be careful. running a dual speaker setup start off at lower volume levels and check your output on your amp as you up the volume. but to be honest I was originally talking more about the speaker damage that might occur from over driving a 2 watt speaker at 4 watts.
I am not trying to argue or discourage you from doing anything.. I am simply pointing out the facts for you that from what you are saying I feel you have either overlooked or were simply not aware of. so you can go into it fully informed and experiment with minimal mishaps. there is actually alot to take into consideration when wiring up good quality audio, be it saber hilts or cars or homes. I just don't like to see good people ruin good equipment be it a cheap speaker or an expensive soundboard needlessly because when it comes down to it a buck is a buck and they are becoming increasingly hard to come by these days and are worth less and less every day, in the end do what you want to do just be as informed as possible so you dont waste a single dollar doing itand only waste time having fun with it.
and we dont use eq's in pro or concert audio either.. we use mixerboards which most people confuse as eq's, as they look quite simmilar with the sliders and all.
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I've got two turntables and a microphone!
but I'm learning more by just reading this thread...so anyone got an igniter board hooked up yet?
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I've got two turntables and a microphone!
but I'm learning more by just reading this thread...so anyone got an igniter board hooked up yet?
LOL.. thats a good song dude. WERD!!!
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my area of expertise is car audio. not home audio. so on that note I don't know a single installer that uses eq's anymore they are simply outdated compared to the technology that is currently available today and have been for quite some time. and I was the one that asked the 4 or 8ohm question about the igniter board so I knew that aswell. and if you take 2 8ohm 2 watt speakers and run them in parallel you will be pushing 4ohm which is less resistance than 8ohm so that allows the amp to essentially double its output (covered this already too) to each speaker which would be 4watt, which is if im not mistaken Naigon said would be the absolute max ( I would have to go back and reread) for the onboard amp. and that would be rms not max so peaking the amp with say a blaster block which would require more output from the amp over the hum if you are already running it at its max at rms would drive the amp well over 4 watts most likely voiding any type of warranty.. so be careful. running a dual speaker setup start off at lower volume levels and check your output on your amp as you up the volume. but to be honest I was originally talking more about the speaker damage that might occur from over driving a 2 watt speaker at 4 watts.
Just FYI, I have a brother-in-law that is a professional sound installer (car audio). He works for JL, and eq's are still used and in fact are NECESSARY if you do any competitions. Dunno how else to customize some of that classical music without an EQ they test with. The majority of cd players or tuners or any sort of in-dash car stereo has a built-in equalizer. Outdated? really? It is one of the few ways to custom tune a wide band of things for your car stereo, is it not?.
In fact, I don't know any friends or friends of friends that have any serious setup WITHOUT an equalizer. Odd you have that opinion, but to each their own :)
btw, what is the comparable/better technology taking place of the equalizer you say is currently available? Perhaps this house is merely a rock I'm living under :D
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ok. perhaps I should have clarified a bit.. analog eq's are outdated.. and the digital equivalent we have today that is present in most if not all of todays equipment can hardly be compared to it. because you make a setting and all the microprocessors do all the adjusting and compensating. and I will stick by the fact that not a single installer that I know uses an external addon equalizer, as the current onboard digital ones that come in todays decks and amps are well more than sufficient for any and all types of tuning. and yes I do compete in the sound quality catagory of all the competitions I enter, but I also build strictly DB centered systems one of which currently holds world record status in the DB drags, owned my my friend Matt Chilcote. putting out 15,000 watts in his 88 s10 blazer.
for those that may be less enlightened DB stands for decibles (which means volume)
you may know a professional installer, but I AM a professional installer..
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I got mine hooked up and it drives my 2 speaker modules pretty hard. By no means is volume a problem. With the power coming to the speaker some of the stock sounds like ignition are painfully loud. A second large speaker would be pointless imo. And as for the size of the boards I could fit 2 18650s, 2 Igniters and 2 True color tm tm tm boards in a 10 inch MHS hilt if I needed. And imo the more boards become modular the easier it will be to make space for more stuff in a hilt.
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I got mine hooked up and it drives my 2 speaker modules pretty hard. By no means is volume a problem. With the power coming to the speaker some of the stock sounds like ignition are painfully loud. A second large speaker would be pointless imo. And as for the size of the boards I could fit 2 18650s, 2 Igniters and 2 True color tm tm tm boards in a 10 inch MHS hilt if I needed. And imo the more boards become modular the easier it will be to make space for more stuff in a hilt.
I am going to call you on that one. Do it ;). Oh, and the criteria is neatly, professionally, and functionally :D ;).
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my board will probably be another week or so but what can i do except wait patiently, :-\ it'll be even longer untill i receive my CF5 but the clock is ticking ... the only thing that bothers me is that this time of year my job becomes 24/7 so no saber play time untill febuary..GUTTED. :'( but at the moment its great to hear that people are receiving their boards and putting them to use and i cant wait to see some results ... time allowing. :). like ive said though im hoping to just wire a very basic set-up on the bench which again hopefully will be my first youtube and forum picture posts. :)
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I got mine hooked up and it drives my 2 speaker modules pretty hard. By no means is volume a problem. With the power coming to the speaker some of the stock sounds like ignition are painfully loud. A second large speaker would be pointless imo. And as for the size of the boards I could fit 2 18650s, 2 Igniters and 2 True color tm tm tm boards in a 10 inch MHS hilt if I needed. And imo the more boards become modular the easier it will be to make space for more stuff in a hilt.
I am going to call you on that one. Do it ;). Oh, and the criteria is neatly, professionally, and functionally :D ;).
I may add...it needs to start a fire...dun dun dun!
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I plan to wire up my Igniter and add on tonight. I have a few questions though.
- if I wire up a rgbw with the white as bling on cling, can I turn it off with the configuration settings? Basically have it wired but not working?
- I'm confused about the master setting and the individual bank setting. How do I make it pick the individual font setting and not use the master setting?
-does the main blade completely turn off when the flash from the add on board or the main board is activated? Or is this configurable also?
Thanks and I'm scared and excited to try this out.
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Oh, and the criteria is neatly, professionally, and functionally :D ;).
Is there any other way? :)
But no that would be lame. Just pointing out that the boards are not too big to be used. ;)
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I plan to wire up my Igniter and add on tonight. I have a few questions though.
- if I wire up a rgbw with the white as bling on cling, can I turn it off with the configuration settings? Basically have it wired but not working?
- I'm confused about the master setting and the individual bank setting. How do I make it pick the individual font setting and not use the master setting?
-does the main blade completely turn off when the flash from the add on board or the main board is activated? Or is this configurable also?
Thanks and I'm scared and excited to try this out.
1. Remember Igniter(tm) supports Multi-Die Flash tm, so the firmware controls which dies are active during normal running and clash. So you can hook up all four die, one to main, one to color1 (from add-on), one to color2 (from add-on) and one to Flash/F- off the board. Then, the "color" values control which die are on during running, and the "flash" values control which die are on during the flash effects.
For example, for the rgbw, assume main=blue, color1=green, color2=red and Flash=white, then the following config makes a sky blue blade with a very light blue flash:
mainLedColor=255
color1LedColor=255
color2LedColor=0
mainLedFlashColor=255
color1FlashColor=255
color2FlashColor=0
flashColor=255
Notice in this example the Red die is hooked up but never used; Green and Blue are on during run and flash and white is added during flash. However, if you want a green blade with a yellowish flash, then you wouldn't use the Flash (white) die as follows:
mainLedColor=0
color1LedColor=255
color2LedColor=0
mainLedFlashColor=0
color1FlashColor=255
color2FlashColor=155
flashColor=0
In this case your white die is hooked up and not used. This is exactly how you can acheive completely different colors for different fonts.
2. Master.ini contains settings that apply for every font. Specifically, the number of fonts you have and the LED Driver settings go here, where its extremely important for the latter to be set correctly so that you don't blow up LEDs in the color mixing.
For the typical LEDEngine using the TruColortm add-on, simply set
mainLedMA=1000
color1LedMA=1000
color2LedMA=1000
flashLedPercent=30
These settings will run your LEDEngin at a nice bright color without worrying about blowing it up. I don't recommend going higher than 1000 for those on a LEDEngin, otherwise stuff can start to heat up quickly since its being over-driven pretty hard.
Remember to use a resistor on the FLASH/F- pin. A 2ohm 2w is probably pretty good. You can then experiment with the percent though 30 should be good.
There are a couple settings that are present in the master.ini that can be overriden in the config.ini. Specifically shutoffLenMS is a good example. If you set this to 500 in the master, but then set it to 800 in config.ini for font1 but don't set it for font2 your first font will be 800 and the second font will be 500. Think of the master as the default here, with the potential to override in specific fonts. If you are confused just copy it into every config.ini file so its explicit.
3. Also configurable, notice that in the first example the main stayed on; this is because mainLedFlashColor was set. In the second example, the main was off the entire time. However, you can turn off colors during flash to create completely different colors on flash. For example, this config gives you a green blade with a blue flash (popular setup these days).
mainLedColor=0
color1LedColor=255
color2LedColor=0
mainLedFlashColor=255
color1FlashColor=0
color2FlashColor=0
flashColor=0
Let me know if you have more questions.
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i still haven't down loaded the manual. :-\ i really need to START READING IT NOW. :D :D :D :D :D... no seriously :(
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Oh, and the criteria is neatly, professionally, and functionally :D ;).
Is there any other way? :)
But no that would be lame. Just pointing out that the boards are not too big to be used. ;)
Agreed. Although if the Maul run materializes, I'd certainly like to see big batts and two boards plus add-ons!
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Thanks for the fast detailed response Naigon ;D this certainly clears it up better. My problem was I read the manual too long once and missed some details. I'm just anxious to install one and just want to be safe and not rush.
Another question, what's the difference betwenn using percentage and value? Can you put in either of? I remember something like that but I will just stick to what you have programmed on the SD card. Not scared anymore lol just super excited to try this ;D
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Today I took out the Ignitor and added the Deluxe 8 ohm 2 watt speaker I received from Erv today . And I connected the PCU with a 8 ohm 1 watt Regal speaker.
I tested the sound differences .
When I held them in my palm with the speaker facing inside of my palm with the Deluxe 8 ohm 2 watt has a Good Bass Sound and Treble . The Regal 8 ohm 1 watt is loud but has no Bass Power . I think the Dark Apprentice sound font needs the Bass Because it Feels Strong . And the sound font on the PCU is still bright without Bass imo . I will try and install the speakers Inverted towards the inside of the hilt for a different sound .
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Thanks for the fast detailed response Naigon ;D this certainly clears it up better. My problem was I read the manual too long once and missed some details. I'm just anxious to install one and just want to be safe and not rush.
Another question, what's the difference betwenn using percentage and value? Can you put in either of? I remember something like that but I will just stick to what you have programmed on the SD card. Not scared anymore lol just super excited to try this ;D
You need to use either percent or MA but not both. Use MA when you have a constant current driver attached (ie TruColortm add-on); use percent for when its an NPN/MOSFET. Note that since MAIN is auto hooked up to constant current it always uses MA; similarly, FLASH always uses percent since its a fet.
In the config on the disk, is it percent or MA, I forgot, lol! Make sure MAIN color1 and color2 are MA, specifically set to 1000 and fix if that's not what it is (I'm pretty sure its MA but is probably at 700 just in case you wanted to try with a rebel or other small led first, one that you don't care if it gets wrecked :)
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my area of expertise is car audio. not home audio. so on that note I don't know a single installer that uses eq's anymore they are simply outdated compared to the technology that is currently available today and have been for quite some time. and I was the one that asked the 4 or 8ohm question about the igniter board so I knew that aswell. and if you take 2 8ohm 2 watt speakers and run them in parallel you will be pushing 4ohm which is less resistance than 8ohm so that allows the amp to essentially double its output (covered this already too) to each speaker which would be 4watt, which is if im not mistaken Naigon said would be the absolute max ( I would have to go back and reread) for the onboard amp. and that would be rms not max so peaking the amp with say a blaster block which would require more output from the amp over the hum if you are already running it at its max at rms would drive the amp well over 4 watts most likely voiding any type of warranty.. so be careful. running a dual speaker setup start off at lower volume levels and check your output on your amp as you up the volume. but to be honest I was originally talking more about the speaker damage that might occur from over driving a 2 watt speaker at 4 watts.
I am not trying to argue or discourage you from doing anything.. I am simply pointing out the facts for you that from what you are saying I feel you have either overlooked or were simply not aware of. so you can go into it fully informed and experiment with minimal mishaps. there is actually alot to take into consideration when wiring up good quality audio, be it saber hilts or cars or homes. I just don't like to see good people ruin good equipment be it a cheap speaker or an expensive soundboard needlessly because when it comes down to it a buck is a buck and they are becoming increasingly hard to come by these days and are worth less and less every day, in the end do what you want to do just be as informed as possible so you dont waste a single dollar doing itand only waste time having fun with it.
and we dont use eq's in pro or concert audio either.. we use mixerboards which most people confuse as eq's, as they look quite simmilar with the sliders and all.
It was I that posted you the link to Ohm's wiring diagram and I also talked about the 4 watt max. I don't want to argue with you either but it seems that in one post you have no info but here in this one you are the all knowing. I am a sound engineer and can't believe you just posted that statement about EQ's being out dated. I just finished up a show at the Sound Advise Amphitheater here us South Floirda and every act (including my set up) ALL EQ everything. In fact EQ'ing the speaker freq. to the venue is THE FIRST thing any good sound installer, engineer, or live mixing engineer does. So to say EQ's are out dated is just......Well I'll be polite.....it's incorrect. ;D ;D ;D
I am very informed about what the amp will and will not do but thank you very much for trying to keep my costs down. There are other things to watch out for that you failed to bring up. One is the db level at which the font was saved as. Oh ya!! that is done with an EQ as well. Just saying.
When I do get a chance to complete my testing you will be able to view the video demo. Then you can continue your >:(
"see earlier links to posts on this topic"
Have a great night
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Okay so on the config.ini the flash value has to be percent when using the add on board. Only use the percent if you aren't using the add on for the main blade..... or do you always use ma for the main blade?
In conclusion, percent for flash and ma for color when using the add on.
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Correct me if im wrong but the main config file above all the fonts is where you set the max ma of each led. Then in each font folder there is a config file where you set the level of each color from 0 to 255, with 255 being the max ma in the master config file. The flash circuit is different than the color circuits and % is used.
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Correct me if im wrong but the main config file above all the fonts is where you set the max ma of each led. Then in each font folder there is a config file where you set the level of each color from 0 to 255, with 255 being the max ma in the master config file. The flash circuit is different than the color circuits and % is used.
Yes this is correct. MAIN always uses MA, FLASH always uses percent, and color1, color2, crystal use either MA or percent but not both depending on whether its hooked up with a TruColor(tm) board or not. This is always set in the master.ini file to define what LED you are using.
Config.ini then has the color values, which are used to define the color of the saber. These settings are irrespective of the master.ini settings; that is you could give your friend a config and as long as you guys are using the same scheme (ie blue=main, green=color1, red=color2) then they will produce the same colors even if you have an LEDEngin and she has a cree.
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It was I that posted you the link to Ohm's wiring diagram and I also talked about the 4 watt max. I don't want to argue with you either but it seems that in one post you have no info but here in this one you are the all knowing. I am a sound engineer and can't believe you just posted that statement about EQ's being out dated. I just finished up a show at the Sound Advise Amphitheater here us South Floirda and every act (including my set up) ALL EQ everything. In fact EQ'ing the speaker freq. to the venue is THE FIRST thing any good sound installer, engineer, or live mixing engineer does. So to say EQ's are out dated is just......Well I'll be polite.....it's incorrect. ;D ;D ;D
I am very informed about what the amp will and will not do but thank you very much for trying to keep my costs down. There are other things to watch out for that you failed to bring up. One is the db level at which the font was saved as. Oh ya!! that is done with an EQ as well. Just saying.
When I do get a chance to complete my testing you will be able to view the video demo. Then you can continue your >:(
"see earlier links to posts on this topic"
Have a great night
I have been attempting to remain humble while posting here (but the gloves come off when challenged with a statement like "I know someone that does what you do and that makes me know more than you")GIL, hence me difering to your knowledge about the ohmage, and claiming to not remember weather it was parallel or series to half the ohmage, hoping you would post a link such as you did in that other thread. and then stepping up today showing the extent of my knowledge base. which is not just limited to pro audio BTW, and I am most certainly NOT all knowing, I have much to learn and continue to do so every day. but I do know that your typical eq as stated as such is no longer in use. the digital equivalent that is used today is considered to be a digital sound processor (dsp). and if you are not using a DSP you are using equipment that is atleast 12 years old. now on that note there used to be 2 different types of commonly used eq's (passive, and active) a passive eq such as the one being suggested and refered to here was a non powered slider based potentiometer that canceled frequencies or changed their values to achieve an effect. an actice eq did basically the same thing only it was a powered unit and had blinkies on it and rather than being direct wire it used rca plugs which was plugged between head unit and amps. the DSP units used today are far more complex in construction and far easier to use, and do essentially the same thing as an eq only far better (for instance on my setup i simply press a button and it outputs certain frequencies to be picked up by microphones placed in the room which are then sent back to the processor for sampling of accustic value and the auto setup takes place.. lately i have been doing this durring the mic checks and preshow jam sessions )and rarely do I have to make adjustments.
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All this 'audiophile' debate/discussion is interesting but perhaps it deserves to be spun off in its own thread since much of what is being discussed like 2x speakers may be, or become, widely applicable to improving saber sound generally rather than specific to Igniter [tm] only?
As for daughterboards; as this hobby has advanced more and more functionality that once required add-ons or kludges has been integrated to the main driver boards but when I first started it was 'standard' for people to use an add-on Corbin LED driver with a MR soundboard to get the PWM lighting effects now included on most combination led-driver/soundboards and no one thought that was unmanageable because of cram-fu in standard hilts that havent changed much in size since - so using daughterboards isnt new nor esp difficult in this hobby and imo an 'enhanced' audio daughterboard is as legitimate an idea as a TruColor [tm] add on board if Naigon or anyone else chooses to pursue one.
Its nice to see how many people have the spirit of improvement and want to take our saber experiences to the next level of sight and sound. Disguising that un-movielike poly-c blade 'click/clack' when dueling is certainly a good reason to want to enhance/increase the sound. There may be other ways [clear rubberized coatings?] but louder clearer sound or sound that could cover up those frequencies would be nice.
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agreed on all points..
again my intent wasnt to discourage any type of advancement or to put down anyones idea, simply to suggest a more practical solution based on the most current digital tech rather than old analog tech.and also to point out things to consider watching out for in the experimentation of such things to avoid hardware failure. I believe that an EQ TYPE add on is a nifty idea but a bit old school compared to a DSP type add on. heck, the more of these toys we can fit into a hilt the closer we get to being able to mix our own sound fonts on the fly right in the hilt. tap a button a couple times change the pitch up or down to go from jedi to sith, DSP = one standard sound font with infinate mixing capabilities based off of board adjustment. and yet you can still change out fonts from the many who make them and customize them for you and your hilt to top it off.. infinate possibilities.
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My favorite soundfont hunt is officially over ;D My favorite font is "Testing testing testing" that came with the igniter board lol. That cracked me up lol. Was that you Naigon? That made my night ;D Sorry for the derail.
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O-W-KANOMI , makes some good points regarding the audio debate , from the posts ive read its obvious that S-ARCHANAS__KNP and GIL all have very useful knowledge and more importantly ideas on sound solutions, :) unfortunately sometimes text and posts messages can be misunderstood as the people involved can't actually see each other,this is again obviously an igniter specific thread but the knowledge on display here is fantastic and as trumixTM is igniters audio solution perhaps the discussion could be more focused around making full use of its potential,... i will state now that my knowledge of sound EQ is LIMITED. but in future versions OR current development and ideas it would be great if clash and to a lesser extent swing sounds could be spiked via the hardware,.?..also the current love affair with the new 2watt 8ohm speaker's seems odd .? ive already found some brilliant speaker's rated at 3watt nominal and handling up to 5watt by a company called vansonic,just 32mm in diameter , they sound very good on the economy hasbro board infact easily the best ive tested from 7 speaker types and i can't wait to get one onto igniter and start posting some results....WHERES MY BOARD_? :D :D :D :D :
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All this 'audiophile' debate/discussion is interesting but perhaps it deserves to be spun off in its own thread since much of what is being discussed like 2x speakers may be, or become, widely applicable to improving saber sound generally rather than specific to Igniter [tm] only?
As for daughterboards; as this hobby has advanced more and more functionality that once required add-ons or kludges has been integrated to the main driver boards but when I first started it was 'standard' for people to use an add-on Corbin LED driver with a MR soundboard to get the PWM lighting effects now included on most combination led-driver/soundboards and no one thought that was unmanageable because of cram-fu in standard hilts that havent changed much in size since - so using daughterboards isnt new nor esp difficult in this hobby and imo an 'enhanced' audio daughterboard is as legitimate an idea as a TruColor [tm] add on board if Naigon or anyone else chooses to pursue one.
Its nice to see how many people have the spirit of improvement and want to take our saber experiences to the next level of sight and sound. Disguising that un-movielike poly-c blade 'click/clack' when dueling is certainly a good reason to want to enhance/increase the sound. There may be other ways [clear rubberized coatings?] but louder clearer sound or sound that could cover up those frequencies would be nice.
AGREED!! O-W-KANOMI , makes some good points regarding the audio debate , from the posts ive read its obvious that S-ARCHANAS__KNP and GIL all have very useful knowledge and more importantly ideas on sound solutions, :) unfortunately sometimes text and posts messages can be misunderstood as the people involved can't actually see each other,this is again obviously an igniter specific thread but the knowledge on display here is fantastic and as trumixTM is igniters audio solution perhaps the discussion could be more focused around making full use of its potential,... i will state now that my knowledge of sound EQ is LIMITED. but in future versions OR current development and ideas it would be great if clash and to a lesser extent swing sounds could be spiked via the hardware,.?..also the current love affair with the new 2watt 8ohm speaker's seems odd .? ive already found some brilliant speaker's rated at 3watt nominal and handling up to 5watt by a company called vecosonic,just 32mm in diameter , they sound very good on the economy hasbro board infact easily the best ive tested from 7 speaker types and i can't wait to get one onto igniter and start posting some results....WHERES MY BOARD_? :D :D :D :D :
AGREED as well. Text does not always come across well.
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My favorite soundfont hunt is officially over ;D My favorite font is "Testing testing testing" that came with the igniter board lol. That cracked me up lol. Was that you Naigon? That made my night ;D Sorry for the derail.
Haha! That was me, including the hum :) I overdubbed my voice making different sounds and used my speaker sim and fair child compressor plugin to change it. The rest are just my voices. I made that thing originally to test that random was working and swing and slash were working correctly, but with the addition of the hum it is pretty funny :)
Did everything install okay for you? How as the install experience? Any pics or vids?
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Yup install was done at 4 am est today :D it was a breeze like a cf 5 install. Once I finished I wasn't as confused about how it operated. I want to try different fonts and config before making a review. I was dizzy and tired this morning my vision was blurry lol. Ill play with her tonight and do a review when I get it how I want.
Naigon, how high can I turn up the volume?
Also I have to use fat32 right to format right? Because I have a 2 gig SD card. I'm confuse about that on the manual. Thanks for your advice sir!
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Yup install was done at 4 am est today :D it was a breeze like a cf 5 install. Once I finished I wasn't as confused about how it operated. I want to try different fonts and config before making a review. I was dizzy and tired this morning my vision was blurry lol. Ill play with her tonight and do a review when I get it how I want.
Naigon, how high can I turn up the volume?
Also I have to use fat32 right to format right? Because I have a 2 gig SD card. I'm confuse about that on the manual. Thanks for your advice sir!
You can use FAT16 on a 2gb card, just make sure to set the correct table size so its actually fat16. The card I gave in fact is formatted for FAT16; this is why I recommend just getting the card from me as you don't really have to care much. If you are confused on how to format it though just go with FAT32 as you can't get it wrong, though you'll waste some more space in table allocation. Either works fine in practice.
For the volume, do you mean the humVolume and effectVolume parameters in the config? Right now you can set those as max of 16 and min of 12 I believe. I don't allow 0 there to turn it off as these aren't true volumes per say, just levels for mixing. For those who know pro audio those are like the faders for individual tracks, not a master volume knob. Igniter(tm) currently doesn't have the latter, you would need to do that with hardware. I suspect a fader in series with the speaker would work (0 to 8ohms would be great), but I've never tested it.
I can't wait to see the review! Do you know what saber it's going in? If so, care to share or want to surprise us?!
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One last thing. There's two configuration files in each font. Do I delete the one where it says config color? It looks the same as the other config file. I have it in an mhs saber already and ill post a video tonight no problem.
Last last thing I forgot. What're the min values for the colors for? I don't understand why they're necessary. Would that have something to do with the flicker effect? Sorry for all the questions.
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One last thing. There's two configuration files in each font. Do I delete the one where it says config color? It looks the same as the other config file. I have it in an mhs saber already and ill post a video tonight no problem.
Last last thing I forgot. What're the min values for the colors for? I don't understand why they're necessary. Would that have something to do with the flicker effect? Sorry for all the questions.
I messed up again, lol!!! Config.color is a notion I came up with. I have a bench hilt with a single LED and my main test hilt with TruColor(tm) installed. I normally make a config.color and I can switch between the two when going to different sabers by renaming. In a nutshell, you can just delete config.color, its just for my testing and not needed.
Min values are very important though very difficult to understand. These values should be used on colors where one die is mixed way lower than the other. Again, assume that MAIN=blue, COLOR1=green, COLOR2=red. For purple, something like this would be in the config:
mainLedColor=200
colorLed1Color=0
colorLed2Color=60
...
However, on extension/retraction you will notice separation, and depending on how extreme your pulse values are set you may see your blade looking too blue on lower pulses.
To fix that, simply add a minColor to color2:
mainLedColor=200
colorLed1Color=0
colorLed2Color=60
mainLedMinColor=0
color1MinColor=0
color2MinColor=16
This will prevent the separation on the ramp effects and will keep it purple during pulse even on low cycles.
Another interesting use of the min color (not intended but it works) is the fire-effect. This was briefly mentioned in that reaver sword thread awhile back. Say you want a green blade with red to pulse in and out, where the green color was static and red pulses. You could set the following to keep green constant while still allowing the red to pulse:
mainLedColor=0
colorLed1Color=255
colorLed2Color=200
mainLedMinColor=0
color1MinColor=255
color2MinColor=0
then, with really wide pulse settings, you would get red on and off effect:
minBright=10
maxBright=100
minPulse=1
maxPulse=8
Change the minPulse and maxPulse to higher values to make it slower, and change the number to be wider to make it more random. With these settings, you would have that red pulsing on and off effect.
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Was there supposed to be another how to make a sound font tutorial/walk through coming?
Got to do something while waiting for my parts.
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Naigon. Here's a video of me just "screwin around" :). I cant wait to be able to completely understand this board ;D ;D ;D One day perhaps.
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that's fantastic work my friend , if this is you just messing about ,? then i would like to see a considered install.... swing recognition looks and sounds brilliant as do the blaster blocks and clashes ,.. nice spinning technique by the way :o... could you give us any specifics on yor saber such as blade type ? batteries ? well anything and everything ..again nice work and nice background display. :)
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that's fantastic work my friend , if this is you just messing about ,? then i would like to see a considered install.... swing recognition looks and sounds brilliant as do the blaster blocks and clashes ,.. nice spinning technique by the way :o... could you give us any specifics on yor saber such as blade type ? batteries ? well anything and everything ..again nice work and nice background display. :)
30" trans white tcss blade, 2 14670 aw liions, rgba ledeengin, 1 watt speaker on the second video, 2 Watts on the first. I think that's it.
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Naigon. Here's a video of me just "screwin around" :). I cant wait to be able to completely understand this board ;D ;D ;D One day perhaps.
That second video looks especially good! It looks like you did a really good job getting the configs the way you wanted for that saber, the swings/clashes ect look really good. Also, those sounds you added are great! What did you do to get them to work, just modify the volumes, or anything at all? Here's the link to the second video for those that don't want to click the first and then click to find the second:
&feature=related
Also, I've updated the manual. I changed the following things:
- Updated the TruColor(tm) diagram to have accurate wiring for an RGBA LEDEngin
- Updated the basic Flash wiring to recommend series wiring for main and flash LEDs, updating diagram as well.
- Added more helpful hints and a troubleshooting section for the most common issues.
You can find the new document here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/ui29pzka4awehsv/Igniter.docx.
For anyone that has my board and is not using the TruColor(tm) add-on, please take the second note into account when building your saber. Can't wait to see more videos of cool sabers!
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:D, just got my igniter plus add on plus card, .. first impressions , it looks really well put together and professional .. brilliant ... secondly , i didnt have to pay ANY import duties,..brilliant. :D :D :D :D.. and now SIZE...the overall length of the igniter is 65mm including the sd card...width is a big but pleasant surprise , its only 24.8mm wide,so a little less than i was expecting,i have noticed in most cases that the board is referd to in inches so now everyone has the size in millimetres.,well i had finally better go and download the manual.
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:D, just got my igniter plus add on plus card, .. first impressions , it looks really well put together and professional .. brilliant ... secondly , i didnt have to pay ANY import duties,..brilliant. :D :D :D :D.. and now SIZE...the overall length of the igniter is 65mm including the sd card...width is a big but pleasant surprise , its only 24.8mm wide,so a little less than i was expecting,i have noticed in most cases that the board is referd to in inches so now everyone has the size in millimetres.,well i had finally better go and download the manual.
Sweet! I can't wait to see what you come up with! Did you get it turned on yet?
Have fun with it!
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unfortunately NO, my expertise is model building NOT electronics, ;)but im already lovin it , its ALMOST to nice to take a soldering iron to it :D....should have the manual downloaded to paper by tomorrow,and then plan out a simple configuration ...a quick question on joining trucolorTM to igniter . im assuming some sort of molex pins?
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If you want the board connected right to the add-on then a 5 pin header will do the trick. I would cut it so that each pin was individual though, because otherwise its a pain to get off if you need to. Also cut down the pins so they don't stick out over the board.
Otherwise you can just use wire, like a 4 wire ribbon cable. It really depends on how it is going in your hilt. With most of my builds I'm doing/planning I'm finding that the add-on is going up near the LEDs right behind the heat sink and the board is going over the batteries. It turns out that two 14650's are almost the exact length of the board, and make a nice holder for it :)
Good luck, let me know if you need help.
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This is a soundcard i was waiting for a long time, i hope i will have some later :)
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ive been reading the manual for a few days now and its COMPLICATED. :D... so another question about the sound and audio amp, .. the board supports 4_ 16 ohms , does the board auto configurer to the speaker or speaker's .? OR is this something you need to look for in the master .ini files.?sorry but right now im not able to study the SD card. :-\
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That's just a spec on the range of speakers you can use with the board. There is no setting to configure on the board itself or in the configs for the OHM rating on the speaker.
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thanks , so nothing to do then except make sure you're using a suitable ohms load.
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thanks , so nothing to do then except make sure you're using a suitable ohms load.
That's correct, as long as your speaker is within 4-16ohm the audio amp will take care of the rest. That is one of things that didn't need a config setting, LOL! I've still got something up my sleeve that should help with those configs, so stay tuned for that in the coming weeks.
Anyone else got it hooked up yet? I can't wait to see some great builds!
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I have the one I got pre wired and ready to hook up, but I haven't had time to play with it yet. :(
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wow, :o :o that fast work rhyan , definitely looking to see what you come up with.?????.
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Just got mine yesterday and I must say, I'm quite impressed with the layout of the boards. Solder pads are all thru-plated and clearly labeled on the backside. Of note is that the uSD socket isn't the 'click' type, so make sure you leave room to get at it if you're planning on being able to pull the card without a pair of pliers.
And yes, these boards sport individualized serial numbers. (damm, that's a lot of zeros! :o )
I didn't see any dimensions listed in the documentation, so I pulled out my trusty calipers and measured it. I've been doing some space simulations to try and plan out my cram-fu beforehand.
Main board: 25mm X 63.3mm X ~6.5mm (the micro SD card hangs over one edge an additional 2.25mm)
TruColor board: 20.5mm X 30.5mm X ~5mm
The 'crystal' output is one of the primary features that drew me to this board, since I'm planning on integrating an exposed crystal chamber in my build. However being able to change the blade color on the fly got me thinking. (dangerous, I know.)
In theory it -should- be possible to use the 'color1' and 'color2' outputs to determine the blade color, why not also use them to have a conventional 5mm RGB LED light the crystal chamber in a matching color to the blade? Sadly my electronics-fu is weak but I'm betting there's enough know-how lurking around here that we might be able to figure out a way to manage this. Worst case I'll run a dip switch so I can tune the crystal color but being able to change it on the fly would make things all the more epic.
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Just got mine yesterday and I must say, I'm quite impressed with the layout of the boards. Solder pads are all thru-plated and clearly labeled on the backside. Of note is that the uSD socket isn't the 'click' type, so make sure you leave room to get at it if you're planning on being able to pull the card without a pair of pliers.
And yes, these boards sport individualized serial numbers. (damm, that's a lot of zeros! :o )
I didn't see any dimensions listed in the documentation, so I pulled out my trusty calipers and measured it. I've been doing some space simulations to try and plan out my cram-fu beforehand.
Main board: 25mm X 63.3mm X ~6.5mm (the micro SD card hangs over one edge an additional 2.25mm)
TruColor board: 20.5mm X 30.5mm X ~5mm
The 'crystal' output is one of the primary features that drew me to this board, since I'm planning on integrating an exposed crystal chamber in my build. However being able to change the blade color on the fly got me thinking. (dangerous, I know.)
In theory it -should- be possible to use the 'color1' and 'color2' outputs to determine the blade color, why not also use them to have a conventional 5mm RGB LED light the crystal chamber in a matching color to the blade? Sadly my electronics-fu is weak but I'm betting there's enough know-how lurking around here that we might be able to figure out a way to manage this. Worst case I'll run a dip switch so I can tune the crystal color but being able to change it on the fly would make things all the more epic.
Yes the board is cram fu able. ;) It can fit on top of 2 18650s side by side in a MHS hilt. ;D
All the outputs for controlling different colors is awesome. The color 1,2,3, and crystal outputs can be used for a RGBA for example for a bazillion colors and flashes.
Making a crystal chamber that changes color with the blade is as simple as using a small rgb, (or what ever the configuration) paralleled off the main leds. The only tricky part is diffusion, which will make brighter than 20ma leds necessary (light is lost through diffusion material).
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I'm actually not looking for something super bright for the crystal chamber, likely in the ~20mA range. I'm thinking that I might be able to direct-drive the crystal chamber RGB led via the Crystal, Color1, and Color2 outputs before they connect to the TruColor board, but I wanted to see what people thought before I toasted an LED through experimentation.
And on a related note, how the smeg are you fitting two 18650's side by side in a standard MHS hilt? I've been wracking my brain on that very issue for a while now.. PM if necessary to prevent thread derailment.
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No don't do that. :o Those are just control signals they aren't meant to power anything. You would have to run them off the main led outputs.
18650s http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33746.msg457157#msg457157
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My only concern with running them off the main LED outputs from the TruColor board is that the blade Die is going to be looking for a MUCH higher amperage (RGBW Ledengin) and that's a sure-fire way to roast a 20mA LED in a hurry.
Here's what I'm thinking for LED's.
Crystal chamber LED (mind you I'll be using a clear acrylic crystal, possibly hand-cast so I'm not worried about diffusion)
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/LED/1P05S3UGB01DA301.pdf (http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/LED/1P05S3UGB01DA301.pdf) - RGB Piranha 5mm
Blade Led
http://www.ledengin.com/files/products/LZ4/LZ4-00MD00.pdf (http://www.ledengin.com/files/products/LZ4/LZ4-00MD00.pdf) - RGBW LED engin LZ4 10W
Re:18650. Yea, I thought that might be how you were squeezing them in there. I'm not entirely crazy about that method myself, but it's one I may have to live with. Stick style is eating my space with a vengeance.
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Resistors ;D
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My only concern with running them off the main LED outputs from the TruColor board is that the blade Die is going to be looking for a MUCH higher amperage (RGBW Ledengin) and that's a sure-fire way to roast a 20mA LED in a hurry.
Here's what I'm thinking for LED's.
Crystal chamber LED (mind you I'll be using a clear acrylic crystal, possibly hand-cast so I'm not worried about diffusion)
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/LED/1P05S3UGB01DA301.pdf (http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/LED/1P05S3UGB01DA301.pdf) - RGB Piranha 5mm
Blade Led
http://www.ledengin.com/files/products/LZ4/LZ4-00MD00.pdf (http://www.ledengin.com/files/products/LZ4/LZ4-00MD00.pdf) - RGBW LED engin LZ4 10W
Re:18650. Yea, I thought that might be how you were squeezing them in there. I'm not entirely crazy about that method myself, but it's one I may have to live with. Stick style is eating my space with a vengeance.
Resistors ;D
Yep, you just resistor the smaller ones for the proper current. ;)
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Talking about the 18650 sbs is about 1 1/2" . The ID for my hilt is 1 1/8" no way sbs for my hilt . I even tried 17500 sbs 1 5/16" a no go lol . Wished I had the space looks like I'll be running 18650 in line and loose what little space I have . The Ignitor & True Color will be a tight fit .
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No don't do that. :o Those are just control signals they aren't meant to power anything. You would have to run them off the main led outputs.
After consulting (read: pouring over) the manual I'm now a bit confused.
Based on the pin voltage section Color1, Color2, and Crystal are all running 3.3v, so there's no issues there. Or at least none a resistor wont fix.
Down in the Crystal LED section of the manual (11.4), it shows wiring an LED directly off the Crystal output. In fact in the text it -also- mentions direct driving other LED's off the Color1 and Color2 pins for greater brightness.
Here's my theory: If these three pins are pushing 3.3v, I could either direct-drive each channel of my crystal LED from these, or use them to trigger NPN transistors to switch the drive voltage to each color channel of the crystal chamber. The TruColor board would still be handling the blade LED per normal.
Now I'm -guessing- that all the LED outputs on the board are running off of a constant current driver, likely one for the 3.3v accents and another heavy duty one for the main blade.
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You are right it does look like you can drive a small led off a pwm pad like the crystal circuit. I don't see any info on how much current they will handle though. As these control pads come off the cpu chip I would use transistors like in the 11.2 diagram.
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For the cost of 3 2n4401 transistors, I'll play it safe and do that. ;)
Even going to RatShack they're inexpensive compared to toasting an LED (or heaven forbid, the board).
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You are right it does look like you can drive a small led off a pwm pad like the crystal circuit. I don't see any info on how much current they will handle though. As these control pads come off the cpu chip I would use transistors like in the 11.2 diagram.
The Crystal, Color1 and Color2 are rated for 19mA, so you can power 1 LED directly from them. Any more than that and you would need to use the transistor method, as shown in the second diagram.
If you want an RGB crystal you would need to run them in parallel with the LEDEngin die using the appropriate resistors. This way the LEDs would like up exactly like the main blade, so your colors would mostly match. I haven't put a diagram of that in the manual yet because I really want to test it first to see how it goes, and never got a chance to do that yet. I've got a build planed with a crystal chamber that will support this feature, but am working on an easier build first to get back into sabers (after doing an entire year of electronics my building skills are a bit rusty, LOL!)
I'm glad you like the board!
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You are right it does look like you can drive a small led off a pwm pad like the crystal circuit. I don't see any info on how much current they will handle though. As these control pads come off the cpu chip I would use transistors like in the 11.2 diagram.
I would love to see Sunrider put the Ignitor True Color to it's limits test and reveal it's full potential power :o
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You are right it does look like you can drive a small led off a pwm pad like the crystal circuit. I don't see any info on how much current they will handle though. As these control pads come off the cpu chip I would use transistors like in the 11.2 diagram.
I would love to see Sunrider put the Ignitor True Color to it's limits test and reveal it's full potential power :o
You wanna be careful there. I did it, and blew the board during testing ;D Though, it probably had to do with the amount of accent led's and the main led and what I was asking of the board :) The limit to it's full potential power is impressive though, provided you don't go over it's limit :D
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In the interest of disambiguation, here is a circuit diagram of my working theory on this.
It's also my excuse to start trying to learn Eagle Cad. :P
Please feel free to point out things that you see that are wrong.
Resistor values were intentionally omitted because they may change (if they end up being used at all!)
I may need to put resistors between the transistors and the signal feeds however. Thoughts?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi242.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff19%2Fmerana33%2Frgbcrystalwiring.jpg&hash=9777e8e0ef2ecc52bf80ebedf8a3bc84605bd479)
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In the interest of disambiguation, here is a circuit diagram of my working theory on this.
It's also my excuse to start trying to learn Eagle Cad. :P
Please feel free to point out things that you see that are wrong.
Resistor values were intentionally omitted because they may change (if they end up being used at all!)
I may need to put resistors between the transistors and the signal feeds however. Thoughts?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi242.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff19%2Fmerana33%2Frgbcrystalwiring.jpg&hash=9777e8e0ef2ecc52bf80ebedf8a3bc84605bd479)
That should work, but to make sure the LED color matched the crystal color you would need to make sure and have the crystalLedColor and crystalFlashColor match the mainLedColor and mainLedFlashColor in your config; basically you are then "wasting" one output, though this diagram is simpler than the one that wouldn't waste the crystal output. In otherwords if you don't need crystal to driver something else (like a motor, ect) this should work great.
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very nice diagram. :) and amazingly i understand 92% of it ....wow :o :o :o :o after 2 years i haven't realised how much ive learned untill now. ;)
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In the interest of disambiguation, here is a circuit diagram of my working theory on this.
It's also my excuse to start trying to learn Eagle Cad. :P
Please feel free to point out things that you see that are wrong.
Resistor values were intentionally omitted because they may change (if they end up being used at all!)
I may need to put resistors between the transistors and the signal feeds however. Thoughts?
<Image snipped>
That should work, but to make sure the LED color matched the crystal color you would need to make sure and have the crystalLedColor and crystalFlashColor match the mainLedColor and mainLedFlashColor in your config; basically you are then "wasting" one output, though this diagram is simpler than the one that wouldn't waste the crystal output. In otherwords if you don't need crystal to driver something else (like a motor, ect) this should work great.
Given that the RGB LED I'm planning on using is only looking for 19-20mA per individual color channel, I can probably just run them straight from the signal lines (with a resistor for each to adjust for voltage of course). I'm not currently planning on putting in a rumble motor, since this is my first build, but I'll definitely keep it in mind for further projects. I've got a concept brewing that might use that functionality, but I figured that making a crystal chamber was adventurous enough for my first go at things. :D
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In the interest of disambiguation, here is a circuit diagram of my working theory on this.
It's also my excuse to start trying to learn Eagle Cad. :P
Please feel free to point out things that you see that are wrong.
Resistor values were intentionally omitted because they may change (if they end up being used at all!)
I may need to put resistors between the transistors and the signal feeds however. Thoughts?
<Image snipped>
That should work, but to make sure the LED color matched the crystal color you would need to make sure and have the crystalLedColor and crystalFlashColor match the mainLedColor and mainLedFlashColor in your config; basically you are then "wasting" one output, though this diagram is simpler than the one that wouldn't waste the crystal output. In otherwords if you don't need crystal to driver something else (like a motor, ect) this should work great.
Given that the RGB LED I'm planning on using is only looking for 19-20mA per individual color channel, I can probably just run them straight from the signal lines (with a resistor for each to adjust for voltage of course). I'm not currently planning on putting in a rumble motor, since this is my first build, but I'll definitely keep it in mind for further projects. I've got a concept brewing that might use that functionality, but I figured that making a crystal chamber was adventurous enough for my first go at things. :D
Remember that with the Color1 and Color2 that those hook to the TruColor(tm) board as well, and that circuit takes some amperage as well. I would recommend going with what you have above, since you don't want to blow things. However with that low of power requirements it may be alright.
I can't wait to see what it looks like!
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You are right it does look like you can drive a small led off a pwm pad like the crystal circuit. I don't see any info on how much current they will handle though. As these control pads come off the cpu chip I would use transistors like in the 11.2 diagram.
I would love to see Sunrider put the Ignitor True Color to it's limits test and reveal it's full potential power :o
You wanna be careful there. I did it, and blew the board during testing ;D Though, it probably had to do with the amount of accent led's and the main led and what I was asking of the board :) The limit to it's full potential power is impressive though, provided you don't go over it's limit :D
Yes Gil up to the limit and not exceed that point of no return lol Poof
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Hello Naigon any new updates or videos ::) :D
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Heya, neat video :) That micro controller looks very much like a Propstick USB :) Good stuff!!!
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I think there might be another 1-2 for sale if someone needs em. What I'm waiting for is seeing some hilts powered by igniter :) Then we will probably see a thread for owners/installers to post what they think can be added/improved on for the board.
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YEAH.. WHATS EVERYONE WAITING ON!!! CHRISTMAS? lol
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Maybe once their Christmas shopping is over and the New Year is begun people will have more money to spend on a 'special' hilt worthy of putting a Igniter in, and then there will be more reviews.
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agreed O-W-K , im stuck with a really big work load untill the end of january.
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I sent my micro usd card to Naigon .Now he is setting it up for my True Color and w 10 watt ledengine and some other new things ? ::)
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Well, I'll have three Igniter sabers to debut soon. One is 90%, one is 75% and the other is probably only 25% done. Once I get one 100% I can test the fonts I've been working on and get them out to people.
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Ive got one 90% done and hope to finish it in a few weeks. :)
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Ahh yeah this should be Awesome :o lol
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waiting patiently, with my drool catcher handy...
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Just wanted to make sure folks following this thread are aware of my newest saber. It can be found here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=34203.0
I wanted a saber that looked classy and featured all the benefits of Igniter(tm), and I believe this one does just that. Sorry for the lack of updates before this, but you guys are used to my quick pace on electronics/software creation but my speed on saber building is snail speed!
Hope you enjoy.
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Greetings ;D
How about illuminated switches and led power level indicators?
Such as the ones sold by TCSS...
I'm not advanced enough to figure this out on my own ???(Yet! ::))
Although I found the igniter manual to be very informative & understandable.
Great job naigon!
Perhaps additional wiring diagrams for the above mentioned..?
Please excuse my ignorance if I missed this info somewhere..
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Greetings ;D
How about illuminated switches and led power level indicators?
Such as the ones sold by TCSS...
I'm not advanced enough to figure this out on my own ???(Yet! ::))
Although I found the igniter manual to be very informative & understandable.
Great job naigon!
Perhaps additional wiring diagrams for the above mentioned..?
Please excuse my ignorance if I missed this info somewhere..
The illuminated switches led could be run off any of the accent pads or even the crystal pads and then programmed in to the lighting pattern for the accents, or heck even soldered directly to the battery pack with the proper resistor. a PLI such as one found at TCSS I'd also run directly off the battery (personal preference). This would give you the readout of the battery level with no load on it (saber off) and then fluxuates when you turn it on ;)
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Greetings ;D
How about illuminated switches and led power level indicators?
Such as the ones sold by TCSS...
I'm not advanced enough to figure this out on my own ???(Yet! ::))
Although I found the igniter manual to be very informative & understandable.
Great job naigon!
Perhaps additional wiring diagrams for the above mentioned..?
Please excuse my ignorance if I missed this info somewhere..
The illuminated switches led could be run off any of the accent pads or even the crystal pads and then programmed in to the lighting pattern for the accents, or heck even soldered directly to the battery pack with the proper resistor. a PLI such as one found at TCSS I'd also run directly off the battery (personal preference). This would give you the readout of the battery level with no load on it (saber off) and then fluxuates when you turn it on ;)
Wow, I couldn't have answered better, thanks Gil!
Another quick update, though a bit different this time:
As everyone probably knows I've been uploading my saber and Igniter(tm) videos to my existing YouTube channel for my acoustic guitar and piano works. In order to keep the saber videos separate and allow them to all be public I've created a new YouTube channel NaigonAkoii:
For anyone that is subscribed to my music channel, please subscribe to this new channel as I'm not going to upload any more saber videos there (I will turn the existing videos private with link so you can still get to them). Thanks again folks for the continued support!
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Thanks for the update naigon :)
And thank you too,Gill for answering my query so simply ;D
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Hey!
If the answer to this question is burried somewhere in this 40+ page thread, please forgive me for not searchin' it out.
Is there a Niagon Electronic Creations website? A place we can book mark to go and get the latest version of the manual, freebie sound fonts, and maybe pre configed "color configs" like the ones Gil had posted?
I know your time is limited & all... but it would be very helpful.
I am about 95% done with my Korbanth/Igniter conversion.... will post when its ready for action.
Cheers
Dak-Tari
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Ok... well here is a suggestion.
Getting my Igniter saber up and running has been a lot of fun... the igniter part has been the easiest hardware wise, the difficult thing is my neophyte soldering skills vs LEDEngin RGBW.
So, what would be cool is if "somebody" could create, or the igniter came with FONTS 1-9 pre configed for color... the sound font can all be the same, but would be really helpful would be if:
FONT 1 - RED (and the "title voice said "Font 1 Red")
FONT 2 - ORANGE (and the "title voice" said "Font 2 ORANGE"
FONT 3 - YELLOW (and the "title voice" said "Font 3 Yellow")
FONT 4 - GREEN....
FONT 5 - BLUE...
FONT 6 - PURPLE - etc
Again, the "sound fonts" don't have to change... they can all be the same (Dark Apprentice) but it would be super helpful to "test" ...
I tried it myself, but I was using WAVs for the titles pulled from the net, and without processing them (Preparing them) for Igniter use, they just sound like bad feedback....
Just an idea, meanwhile, I'll "solder" on.
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I've got 2 posts with 36 color settings currently and their corresponding RGB values, covering the majority of basic colors (IE red,blue,green,purple,yellow,white,arctic blue, lime green,orange,silver, and many varying shades of each), but I think a major point of Igniter is the customizability (is that even a word?? lol) for the end user for whatever they want, verses preset settings. I say 36 colors because running 9 fonts actually allows for 18 different colors (1 for main blade, 1 for clash, so 2 per font). I've actually got another 18 done up, but didn't post it as I figured what I already did covered quite a bit, and didn't want to take away any of the "fun" of the color mixing process ;D
What you could do is modify the "font" file with a custom sound stating your color, just record yourself saying various colors, then rename that file to "font" and put it in the font(x) folder. This wouldn't give you the soundfonts intro upon selecting the font, but it would tell you the color, and I suppose to rectify that you could even say something like (for the Bespin font for example) "Blue Bespin" or (for Revenge) "Red Revenge". Again though, I think this is something that is a preference on the end user. Personally, I already knew what colors I wanted on the majority of fonts, so as soon as the font loaded up I'd already know what color to expect.
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Thanks Gil,
I have been "heavily" using the colors that you already did... and was trying to come up with a way to attach a name to it....
This Igniter is a LOT of fun already, and the saber isn't even completed!
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Hey everyone,
Just wanted to let you know that I got my new site up and running (in my profile). Here you will find all the latest info on Igniter(tm) including:
-Newest videos
-Download the newest copy of the manual
-Download the default files package that comes with Igniter(tm) on the uSD card.
Make sure to check the site for news as I'll be putting up new versions of the manual, new fonts for the default package and the new config program there.
Thanks everyone!
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Awesome Scott!
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For those of you who were waiting for more fonts, I now have not one but two new fonts for Igniter(tm). These will be included with all Igniter(tm) going forward. Also, for those who already bought Igniter(tm) please go to the downloads page to get the newest version:
http://www.SaberIgniter.com/Downloads.aspx (http://www.SaberIgniter.com/Downloads.aspx)
Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcNHRdm3am8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcNHRdm3am8)
501 Commander
Font envisioned if the 501st had clone commanders with sabers when attacking the temple. Mechanical and percise, this font would go with a set of sabers used by the special highly trained (but not force sensitive) clones.
Father's Son
My final version of the Luke episode 6 font. Completely reworked hum, lockups and additional blaster, clash and swing sounds. I have 3 unique hums that are all similar but different to really give a variety of sounds. I'm quite pleased with this font and hope everyone else enjoys it as well!
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yep, i very much like father son, really clear blaster block effects and quality trousers by the way. :D :D :D :D
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Realize this sounds Awesome I am patient for good new's ;) Thanks 8)
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It's good to see more fonts. Thanks. 8)
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great work naigon. really like those mate
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just been listening to the 501 font again and this one as really started to impress me , its got a fantastic idle hum, :) :) :) :) ive also just noticed how well the power off sound as been syncronised with the blade off effect... nice one scott.
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The title of this thread has been modified to keep this in line with FX-Sabers R's & R's.
Just in case anyone was asking...
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Awesome! Father's Son is the Jedi font I've been waiting for...Thanks Naigon.
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Happy Episode I 3D day!
In honor of the release I prepared a special update to my site for the release today (well, I tried to get it out for last night, but missed the deadline).
First news is that IndustrialAction's "Now That's What I Call Racin'(tm)" font is available in the default files package! So there are a total of 6 fonts included now, a fair number I believe :) Perfect for this release, go download the DefaultFiles.zip from my site to get the newest font
http://SaberIgniter.com/Downloads.aspx (http://SaberIgniter.com/Downloads.aspx)
But the big news of the day is something I've been planning since developing Igniter(tm), and was able to get working versions only over the holiday break. This program has been in testing with a few select folks, and is now currently ready to go! Allow me to introduce Igniter(tm) Config File Editor.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2FSaberIgniter.com%2FApp_Themes%2FMainTheme%2FConfigFileEditor.png&hash=795bfdc7245a6c1592cc3f2b50e25b19c6ec612b) (http://SaberIgniter.com/App_Themes/MainTheme/ConfigFileEditor.png)
This program eliminates using notepad to do edits, forcing you to pull the uSD card in and out of your saber multiple times. Now you can open the file, make edits with the GUI and save it all within a nice interface. Plus, it backs up your old files in case you didn't like the edits you made, so you don't have to worry about screwing your files up.
The big win though in my humble opinion is Ignite-ulator(tm). With this feature your computer becomes a mini-Igniter(tm), giving you the blade effects, blade colors and accent LED settings that are entered in the config! You can even do editing in real-time with the simulator, so you will know how changing the settings changes the behavior!
You can find more details on my page here:
http://SaberIgniter.com/ConfigEditor.aspx (http://SaberIgniter.com/ConfigEditor.aspx)
Also, check out the video to see it in action!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Zes6QiVqIE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Zes6QiVqIE)
Hope everyone has a good time in the theaters this weekend!
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Oo Thanks Naigon : This sounds easy 8)
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You guys are going to LOVE this configuration program. I have been using it for some time now and I can't tell you how impressed I am. It makes the configuration process immensely easier. Not only does it speed up the config but it also analyzes your config file and FIXES PROBLEMS! Now that's something really special. The built in color mixing options also make configs a breeze when using TruColor™. This is a great advancement for a great board!
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The program is awesome. 8) It does everything and makes setup fun. The descriptions for all the parameters help a lot. I love the ability to pick what color for which channel then play around with mixing a color. And the simulators are sooo useful. Thanks. Super Win. :D ;D
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For Real Sunrider 8)
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The automatic backup option is total 'win' in my book. If you mess up, instead of starting over at square -1 you can just replace the files. This will take the fear factor out of end users fiddling with their configurations.
Now I just need an igniter powered saber to play around with em :)
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Indeed, as far as a configuration tool goes, this thing is beyond awesome. Makes color configuring so much easier!
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this looks incredible , it certainly will prove very helpful when setting up igniter, nice one. :) :)
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Looks like things are really coming together nicely there Naigon. The editor looks awesome, IA's new font sounds great, the website is really starting to flesh out well. Keep up the great work, I'll be looking for one of these boards for my next project I think.
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Hi friend, I agree that removing the protection circuit and use a PCB would be the best option in this case (batteries 18650). You already have a tutorial to show me. Cheers.
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Hi friend, I agree that removing the protection circuit and use a PCB would be the best option in this case (batteries 18650). You already have a tutorial to show me. Cheers.
I do have pictures that I took when removing the protection from my AW 14670's and wiring them as a pack, but haven't had a chance to make a tutorial yet. I have been super busy with work this week and haven't had any chance to really do anything saber related, so will try to get to it this weekend. You can start with AZ's tutorial over at TCSS though for wiring packs in general: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12829-Li-Ion-Battery-Packs&highlight=battery+pack+wiring (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12829-Li-Ion-Battery-Packs&highlight=battery+pack+wiring)
For those who don't have context, I'm a huge fan of the 14650 packs, as you can discharge enough amperage for the Multi-Die Flash(tm) with all 4 die, and they still don't take up too much room. It is tough to find them unprotected though, so I just remove the protection circuit carefully with a knife. But you can short the pack doing this, which is why I want to show how it is done.
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hmm in that case. I should get myself some 14650s for my igniter saber then :)
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I can't wait to get my Igniter MHS based saber. It's going to be so fricken cool!!
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I'm hoping for another run of these real soon, 'cause I'ma buy two!
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As far as I know from talking to Naigon, he has stock on hand.
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I can't wait to get my Igniter MHS based saber. It's going to be so fricken cool!!
There are a couple of new Igniter based projects that I'm looking forward to in the near future as well. Really enjoying the features on this board.
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I'm hoping for another run of these real soon, 'cause I'ma buy two!
Yeah, i believe he has them available on his site too.
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I'm hoping for another run of these real soon, 'cause I'ma buy two!
Go here : http://www.saberigniter.com/ 8)
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I love the new board! I have a couple of projects in progress & at least 2 will need this set-up. This may have been asked before somewhere in the forum, I was wondering what size SD card is standard for this setup & how many fonts can one load onto one based on card MB size?
Thanks again Naigon great work ;D
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It uses a micro SD (uSD) card. The board takes nine fonts but you could have up to 99 hums (and a ton more additional sounds) per font so the possibilities are pretty much endless.
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Here's a question I've been meaning to ask about the board.
How many different colors could I get in one saber that have a yellowish, or an orangish colored Flash color...and what LED combination would be best to get them?
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Here's a question I've been meaning to ask about the board.
How many different colors could I get in one saber that have a yellowish, or an orangish colored Flash color...and what LED combination would be best to get them?
Your flash color and blade color are set separately, so you can basically have 9 completely different blade colors but set each flash to a yellow-orange if you like.
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Cool, I think thats the coolest flash color for a saber since it seems to mimic the movies the closest :)
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..............................Wow................ i want it......... like.......now.............
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Cool, I think thats the coolest flash color for a saber since it seems to mimic the movies the closest :)
On my Magister one of my blades is a nice deep blue with an amber flash. I love the effect of that combo. It is so cool to be able to plug the SD card into my computer and change the settings and see the effect on the little animated saber on the screen. I'm still playing around with the settings for more flicker on the blade colors.
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The igniter is def a cutting edge board and scott just released the R2 version now with some bug fixes and even more features, this is "the" board to get as I will only be using this board on future installs myself. ;D
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The igniter is def a cutting edge board and scott just released the R2 version now with some bug fixes and even more features, this is "the" board to get as I will only be using this board on future installs myself. ;D
And you can have one right now! Oh happy May the 4th be with you!
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I just got my Igniter version 1 with color extender, 2 weeks ago, can this one be upgraded ? ( I havent even pulled it out of the pretty pink plastic yet)
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He says on his site that he is considering an upgrade service for R1 owners.
http://saberigniter.com/
I'd be willing to bet that he will eventually offer this.
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Naigon's customer service has always been top notch, getting replies out to his customers is something he seems to pride himself on, if the people are asking for upgrades to their current products, I'd be willing to bet that he'll deliver. No need to fret Alice, I don't want to speak for him, but I bet you'll see the option come available soon.
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I just got my Igniter version 1 with color extender, 2 weeks ago, can this one be upgraded ? ( I havent even pulled it out of the pretty pink plastic yet)
In a short answer, yes :)
If you send back a board on its own (not in a hilt) I can do it. Also, if the four pads are exposed even in a hit I could as well. I'm still working out the details of it but please send me a PM and we can discuss.