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The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => Plecter Labs => Topic started by: uglyguitarguy on June 29, 2020, 03:15:55 PM
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Newbie here, so please bear with me as I explain what I'm after (thanks in advance).
I'm making a Goth3D design Graflex Mentor Series saber that his tutorial shows use of a CF9 and Color Xpander for. It will be the ANH Graflex saber, so I really don't care about changing colors. It will always be light blue blade (B/B/W Tri Cree) with a blue (LED) crystal reveal and a few accents. I've got a CFX and have been playing with it while parts are bring printed to learn it, and I've just about got the hang of programming all my accent/chamber LEDs. I'm powering the system from a 14500 7.4v battery. I've noticed that in order to get full LED brightness I need to use 5W resistors, and even they they get STUPID hot (burned the xxx out of my thumb the other day on one when not paying attention), and I usually end up getting a heat warning message from the CFX after a few minutes of ON time. In the Goth3D tutorial, I don't see ANY off-board resistors being used (especially large wattage like my 5W calculations), so I'm curious if the Color Xpander is part of a resistor-less solution? I can't seem to find any documentation or wiring diagram for it, or even if it interfaces with the CFX board like it did the CF9. I ordered one a couple weeks ago from the Plecter site, and it has yet to arrive (international shipping to the US can take a minute), but now I don't know if I actually need it, or if it even interfaces with the CFX. I'm just trying to figure it out as I go along. :grin:
Any help in regards to the CFX and the Color Xpander, if they're even combinable (and if so, how?) would be immensely appreciated. From building analog guitar pedals for years I know just enough about this to be dangerous, but lack the experience and knowledge of this world specifically. Just hoping to make a cool display saber that makes all my friends jealous!
Thanks again, and cheers,
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7.4 volts is unnecessary on the CFX when using a Tri-Cree. You'll be much happier with a 3.7v battery, as you'll be able to use smaller, less prone to heating up resistors. The color xtender is also not necessary.
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I truly appreciate such a quick response, and now that you've said that it seems glaringly obvious. I guess I just earned some space back in my saber guts, and made this a whole lot simpler than I expected it to be. Cheers and thank you!
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If you are using a CFX, you can use a Quad Cree. RGBW
Quad Cree XPE-2 Custom Configuration Lightsaber LED With Lens ? The Saber Armory (https://thesaberarmory.com/collections/high-power-leds/products/quad-cree-xpe-2-custom-configuration-lightsaber-led-lens)
Demo VV Imperial Knight with Crystal Focus X (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=54236.0)
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If I make another more "flexible" saber I'll keep that in mind, but since this is going for Ep IV screen accuracy, I only need a single blade color. Thanks for sharing the info though!