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The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => Vader's Vault => Topic started by: fsuman110 on March 19, 2017, 05:45:29 AM
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It's coming! After seeing Alan's previous on Facebook I thought I'd go ahead and make a thread for the Darth Vader MPP saber from ANH. Details to follow soon I'm sure. I really hope there will be multiple runs on this like with the Flex and Hero, as I'm changing jobs come April and I don't know if I'll have the funds for this particular run. But oh man do I want this saber!
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Looks pretty sweet. Which version do you prefer, ANH or ESB? For me ANH looks better with the shorter grips, more well proportioned I suppose. The ESB version looks weird to me.
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It's happening! Thanks for the heads up, fsuman.
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I do like the exposed wire in the ESB version, but I'm afraid that over time they would come loose or break. I also don't like the longer grips as much, so I think if I'm able to get one, I'd go with ANH.
If either Alan or Deanna pop in here, I'd love a confirmation that tomorrow's run won't be the only one. Similar to how there have now been several runs of both the Hero and Flex, I'd feel a lot better knowing I won't have to wait years and years before my next chance in case I can't pull funds together for this time. Even if it's a couple months down the road, that'd be fine by me. But I'm hoping that I'll be able to order this time.
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They've implicitly confirmed that there will be multiple runs of these.
(Alan said on Facebook that there were no pictures of weathered MPPs this time around but that any weathered hilts ordered on this run would be photographed for reference in future runs)
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Why are these $100 more than the graflex?
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After studying the MPP for the ESB saber the white and blue wires are accurate as they should be smaller than the others. The other three should be a bit larger but hey it's a saber from VV and the do top notch work. I'm sure a simple replacement of the wires, for ESB only sabers, would work. Kudos to VV once again.
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Why are these $100 more than the graflex?
Part of it has to be that Suncrusher is included in the price by default. Not sure about the rest. Guessing it's just more difficult to put together? The fixed chassis with recharge port?
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Aaaaaannnd they're up! Grabbed the A New Hope version.
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Got one too - A New Hope version.
Will the lead time on these be just like any other Vader's Vault hilt? I assume so.
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Looks like they are gone already!
I managed to snag an ESB despite being on the end of a mobile connection :smiley:
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I observed all gone within five or six minutes.
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I observed all gone within five or six minutes.
lol
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Managed to secure an ESB. \m/
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Why are these $100 more than the graflex?
Part of it has to be that Suncrusher is included in the price by default. Not sure about the rest. Guessing it's just more difficult to put together? The fixed chassis with recharge port?
It's also got an installed battery which is charged via a recharge port rather than switching out the battery - this means they have to include the more expensive charger - the Hero came with the great multi-voltage charger from the custom saber shop - they are about $24 from CSS (when you include the actual recharge socket) rather than the ~$8 battery chargers. Between that and the suncrusher upgrade and the improved chassis etc. it doesn't seem unreasonable to me.
On a different subject it's a shame the Korbanth ESB version has the incorrect chrome side plates on the clamp, and also the clamp lever - better prepare for a mod to fix that although it should be pretty easy.
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It's also got an installed battery which is charged via a recharge port rather than switching out the battery - this means they have to include the more expensive charger - the Hero came with the great multi-voltage charger from the custom saber shop - they are about $24 from CSS (when you include the actual recharge socket) rather than the ~$8 battery chargers. Between that and the suncrusher upgrade and the improved chassis etc. it doesn't seem unreasonable to me.
On a different subject it's a shame the Korbanth ESB version has the incorrect chrome side plates on the clamp, and also the clamp lever - better prepare for a mod to fix that although it should be pretty easy.
Yeah, I haven't looked into it yet but I figured there might be a way to modify that aspect of the ESB version. Will need to do research at some point.
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Regarding the LED for the MPP, I've seen a lot of chatter about Deep Red as opposed to Red. There seem to be a lot of people who want it, but Deanna said that they do not recommend Deep Red because it sacrifices brightness. But I was wondering, what do people like about Deep Red? Does anyone have any side by side comparison pictures?
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Regarding the LED for the MPP, I've seen a lot of chatter about Deep Red as opposed to Red. There seem to be a lot of people who want it, but Deanna said that they do not recommend Deep Red because it sacrifices brightness. But I was wondering, what do people like about Deep Red? Does anyone have any side by side comparison pictures?
I only have one deep red saber, and it is a single cree vader conversion, but the deep red off that is phenomenal. It's like 'blood' red honestly. Really punchy and really, well, deep.
On that note, I have Rev-N in Suncrusher Red, which is out for repairs, but the red on that is extremely bright, but not as red, as you would see in deep red.
Funny thing is, before picking up the Rev-N second hand I had commissioned a Fallen in dR/dR/W, so I'm looking forward to that comparison.
I personally wouldn't mind sacrificing brightness for deep red. I think it's worth it, and it sure looks amazing in person, and that is only with 1 diode operating.
Camera picks it up as a bit of pink, but I assure you that in person it is a whole other story.
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Managed to get an ANH version, also curious about deep red. Wondering if I should ask VV for dR/R/W...
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Is VV using the Korbanth hilt, or is this a reference to the send-in service?
Thanks
Why are these $100 more than the graflex?
Part of it has to be that Suncrusher is included in the price by default. Not sure about the rest. Guessing it's just more difficult to put together? The fixed chassis with recharge port?
On a different subject it's a shame the Korbanth ESB version has the incorrect chrome side plates on the clamp, and also the clamp lever - better prepare for a mod to fix that although it should be pretty easy.
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Is VV using the Korbanth hilt, or is this a reference to the send-in service?
Thanks
On a different subject it's a shame the Korbanth ESB version has the incorrect chrome side plates on the clamp, and also the clamp lever - better prepare for a mod to fix that although it should be pretty easy.
Yes they are using the Parks/Korbanth MPP 2.0 hilt - just like they did with the Flex which used the Graflex 2.0 as the base.
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I was hoping they would use a spot-on replica MPP
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I was hoping they would use a spot-on replica MPP
If you want a genuine MPP, there is an auction for one on eBay right now.
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I'm not too familiar with the fine details of the MPP. I know the basic differences between ANH and ESB, but what isn't accurate with the Parks model? Is the ANH model fine?
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Silly question but whats the difference between their regular colours and a suncrusher? Which one is the tri cree?
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suncrusher is the tri-cree. regular is a single LED. Definitely go for suncrusher
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I'm not too familiar with the fine details of the MPP. I know the basic differences between ANH and ESB, but what isn't accurate with the Parks model? Is the ANH model fine?
The one inaccuracy of the Parks that I do know is that the ESB clamp should be black at the sides, not silver, and it doesn't have a clamp lever, instead having a greeblie on the side. That's all I know though.
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I was hoping they would use a spot-on replica MPP
If you want a genuine MPP, there is an auction for one on eBay right now.
the shroud looks like the swapped a Heiland in there; it's got the shoulder and not a straight collar.
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I'm not too familiar with the fine details of the MPP. I know the basic differences between ANH and ESB, but what isn't accurate with the Parks model? Is the ANH model fine?
The one inaccuracy of the Parks that I do know is that the ESB clamp should be black at the sides, not silver, and it doesn't have a clamp lever, instead having a greeblie on the side. That's all I know though.
Those are the standout issues which was why I noted they would be the ones I'd have to fix as they are pretty fundamental if you go ESB (and ESB has always been my favourite version). The clamp lever should be removed and the clamp is held together by a post and a drilled pin with a small washer to be ESB accurate. The wires look wrong also, but should be an easier fix. For ANH the clamp doesn't look so bad. Other than that as an FX based version it has drilled holes in the pommel which are obviously not prop accurate. After that judging from pics it's a sort of similar situation to the Graflex 2.0 - lots and lots of small details that are not quite accurate - but squint a little and it's very close, and for the money you'd be hard pressed to find anything even close. I won't know for sure of all the differences until I can put it next to a real MPP.
I don't have a Korbanth/Parks MPP replica - but I do have a Graflex 1.0 and 2.0 and have had the opportunity to compare them to a vintage Graflex. Overall the Graflex 1.0 is way more accurate to the vintage (there are still notable differences though), but is not very FX install friendly. The 2.0 makes a lot of compromises, but is designed to take electronics and be much cheaper to manufacture.
I'm assuming that as with the Flex VV have found a way to convert the MPP 2.0 to take a 1 inch blade for the VDR (it's 7/8 inch by default)?
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I'm not too familiar with the fine details of the MPP. I know the basic differences between ANH and ESB, but what isn't accurate with the Parks model? Is the ANH model fine?
The one inaccuracy of the Parks that I do know is that the ESB clamp should be black at the sides, not silver, and it doesn't have a clamp lever, instead having a greeblie on the side. That's all I know though.
Those are the standout issues which was why I noted they would be the ones I'd have to fix as they are pretty fundamental if you go ESB (and ESB has always been my favourite version). The clamp lever should be removed and the clamp is held together by a post and a drilled pin with a small washer to be ESB accurate. The wires look wrong also, but should be an easier fix. For ANH the clamp doesn't look so bad. Other than that as an FX based version it has drilled holes in the pommel which are obviously not prop accurate. After that judging from pics it's a sort of similar situation to the Graflex 2.0 - lots and lots of small details that are not quite accurate - but squint a little and it's very close, and for the money you'd be hard pressed to find anything even close. I won't know for sure of all the differences until I can put it next to a real MPP.
I don't have a Korbanth/Parks MPP replica - but I do have a Graflex 1.0 and 2.0 and have had the opportunity to compare them to a vintage Graflex. Overall the Graflex 1.0 is way more accurate to the vintage (there are still notable differences though), but is not very FX install friendly. The 2.0 makes a lot of compromises, but is designed to take electronics and be much cheaper to manufacture.
I'm assuming that as with the Flex VV have found a way to convert the MPP 2.0 to take a 1 inch blade for the VDR (it's 7/8 inch by default)?
Not to get too far off topic from the MPP, but what are some of the differences between the Flex 1.0, 2.0, and actual Graflex? I'm not too much a stickler for accuracy, but I do find this stuff interesting to learn about.
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I bought an ANH version of this run.
Having only owned a converted Master Replicas Force FX Vader ANH, I am excited to own this saber. I am not usually a fan of Korbanth hilts in general, but the vader looks like a decent product. From the spring in the emitter, functional clamp, plecter sound, tri-cree, FoC, rigid chassis, switch placement, and 1" blade. I would say this product will be well worth the listing price. This will be a major upgrade from my previous MR.
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I'm not too familiar with the fine details of the MPP. I know the basic differences between ANH and ESB, but what isn't accurate with the Parks model? Is the ANH model fine?
The one inaccuracy of the Parks that I do know is that the ESB clamp should be black at the sides, not silver, and it doesn't have a clamp lever, instead having a greeblie on the side. That's all I know though.
Those are the standout issues which was why I noted they would be the ones I'd have to fix as they are pretty fundamental if you go ESB (and ESB has always been my favourite version). The clamp lever should be removed and the clamp is held together by a post and a drilled pin with a small washer to be ESB accurate. The wires look wrong also, but should be an easier fix. For ANH the clamp doesn't look so bad. Other than that as an FX based version it has drilled holes in the pommel which are obviously not prop accurate. After that judging from pics it's a sort of similar situation to the Graflex 2.0 - lots and lots of small details that are not quite accurate - but squint a little and it's very close, and for the money you'd be hard pressed to find anything even close. I won't know for sure of all the differences until I can put it next to a real MPP.
I don't have a Korbanth/Parks MPP replica - but I do have a Graflex 1.0 and 2.0 and have had the opportunity to compare them to a vintage Graflex. Overall the Graflex 1.0 is way more accurate to the vintage (there are still notable differences though), but is not very FX install friendly. The 2.0 makes a lot of compromises, but is designed to take electronics and be much cheaper to manufacture.
I'm assuming that as with the Flex VV have found a way to convert the MPP 2.0 to take a 1 inch blade for the VDR (it's 7/8 inch by default)?
Not to get too far off topic from the MPP, but what are some of the differences between the Flex 1.0, 2.0, and actual Graflex? I'm not too much a stickler for accuracy, but I do find this stuff interesting to learn about.
There's a bunch of small things, from the easily fixable (all the screws are hex heads, which isn't accurate to either a vintage or the prop, and rivets are all screws instead), to things you're kind of stuck with, like the curve of the emitter being slightly off. The bunny ears are too long. There's no "GRAFLEX" on the clamp. The red buttons themselves are anodized metal and the wrong color, and the housing for them has the wrong angle on the bevel at the top. The brass contact for the pins is missing. The glass eye is metal instead of, well, glass. The pommel has sound vents instead of the stamping, but that's an intentional change for electronics. The slide tab is just a static piece.
And that's just the base flash, there's more when you get to the saber parts. The clamp card is pretty far from accurate, though the one included in the latest run is way better than the old one. The Kobold clip is shiny but should be matte. I think the dimensions of the D-ring are off but I don't actually know how. I'm pretty sure the T-tracks for the grip are symmetrical, while the ones used for the actual props are slightly asymmetrical.
EDIT: the clamp card in the header photo is the old one, the new one looks basically the same but is gold.
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TheUnchosenOne listed just about all the differences I've noticed - the only one I'd add is that the 'beer tab' is inaccurate too.
Basically the harder you look the more really small differences you notice. That makes it sound really bad though, when the reality is that it's still a good version of the Graflex, and when you figure in a well implemented electronics install, and that it's as much for use as it is display the VV version is a really good deal I think (I don't have a Flex myself). Personally I'm a bit more forgiving of electronics installed sabers when it comes to the really fine details (I do need the overall dimensions and fundamental items to be about right though). I have static display versions of all these sabers that are either vintage or expensive replicas (much more than the price of a Flex, VDR or Hero in most cases), so these are the 'fun' versions :smiley:
Back on topic I'm looking forward to seeing the VV/Korbanth/Parks MPP/VDR in person, and despite the slight inaccuracies it looks like a great deal to me. I like the recent forays by VV into the limited edition / canon sabers.
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the only one I'd add is that the 'beer tab' is inaccurate too.
Basically the harder you look the more really small differences you notice. That makes it sound really bad though, when the reality is that it's still a good version of the Graflex
I always forget the beer tab because I took mine off basically immediately.
And yeah, that list makes it look real bad, but individually, each one is pretty minor, and really, its purpose isn't to be a perfect replica. I'm very happy with mine, even with the things I can't or won't fix.
I'm curious as to what VV did about the blade holder, I know the stock MPP 2.0 takes a 7/8" blade.
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I forgot to mention I also ordered a 36" Enhanced Red Day Blade to go with the VV MPP. :grin:
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Got one too - A New Hope version.
Will the lead time on these be just like any other Vader's Vault hilt? I assume so.
Just saw your post back on the first page. I'd also like to know if these will be in line with current lead times, or if they will take longer because they're a special run? Either way is perfectly fine, I was just curious.
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They might take a bit longer but VV has said they do try and fit the limited edition runs into the normal lead times. I was on the Jan Flex run and some people have received theirs already.
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They might take a bit longer but VV has said they do try and fit the limited edition runs into the normal lead times. I was on the Jan Flex run and some people have received theirs already.
Oh wow, they've gotten their times down quite a bit then, it seems.
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Any word on when these babies might start shipping? I think we're around 27 weeks or so which still isn't bad. I'm wondering if the new soundboards being installed might delay the shipping. Either way, I'm fine waiting and I'm not complaining, it's just that everything has been really quiet with the VDRs.
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Any word on when these babies might start shipping? I think we're around 27 weeks or so which still isn't bad. I'm wondering if the new soundboards being installed might delay the shipping. Either way, I'm fine waiting and I'm not complaining, it's just that everything has been really quiet with the VDRs.
Mine just showed up yesterday. I ordered the ANH version. Looks and functions great. Im sure yours will be arriving shortly.
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Any word on when these babies might start shipping? I think we're around 27 weeks or so which still isn't bad. I'm wondering if the new soundboards being installed might delay the shipping. Either way, I'm fine waiting and I'm not complaining, it's just that everything has been really quiet with the VDRs.
They just updated their Facebook page today announcing another run of VDRs for this Friday and that the first run was shipping. They also mentioned that the page will be updated to reflect a more accurate ESB saber. What I am wondering is if the first run will include the more accurate changes to the ESB version.
EDIT: Never mind. They just confirmed on FB first runs will include the accuracy changes! \m/
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Wow, how about that timing! I just saw their FB post as well. Darth Smorgis, impressions on the saber? Which version did you get?
I haven't gotten my shipping notice yet, but of course it figures that I'm gonna be out of the country for a couple weeks come Sunday. Either way, glad to know it won't be much longer. To be honest I wasn't expecting under 30 weeks, especially with the new soundboard.
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Darth Smorgis, impressions on the saber? Which version did you get?
I am pretty impressed with the finished product. I ordered the ANH version am pleased with what I received. Vaders Vault did a great job with these hilts. Switch placement is very efficient, sound is loud, motion sensitivity is amazing with CSv4, RRW blade is super bright, and soundfonts included are a nice addition to the saber. Very nice product for this price point. Happy customer here.
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They may be slow getting to people because of the hurricane. Excited to see these
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Holy crap the CSv4 is amazing! I didn't even have to change any default settings. The swing sensitivity is absolutely perfect. It's also loud as xxx! One of the startup sounds is the siren from Rogue One, and I had to remove that because it was just too loud. It's a very noticeable upgrade. Is it actually possible to send in my Hero and Flex to get upgraded? It'd seriously consider it.
My only gripe is the activation switch. I don't know if this is just mine, but it's not very tactile and it's hard to tell if the button is getting pressed at all, but it's also very sensitive so I'm finding that I often accidentally deactivate the saber while swinging it around. I'm just gonna need to find a different grip I think. But overall, amazing addition to the collection and well worth the purchase.
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You can set a longer delay on the deactivation so that you do not deactivate it by accident.
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You can set a longer delay on the deactivation so that you do not deactivate it by accident.
Nice! Has this always been the case or is this a new feature?
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You can set a longer delay on the deactivation so that you do not deactivate it by accident.
Sweet! I did not know that. I'll take a look at that. Is it normal though that the activation button doesn't have quite the same tactile feel as other buttons? Like there's not much "click" to it. That's just the way that particular activation switch works? If so then no worries.
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It is. Some are less "clicky" than others. If it bothers you, it is no problem to send it back and we can "loosen it up".
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It is. Some are less "clicky" than others. If it bothers you, it is no problem to send it back and we can "loosen it up".
Thanks for the reply! If the button is supposed to be that way and is working as intended, then I'm totally fine with it. The comparative lack of "clickiness" doesn't seem to have any affect on the button actually working, so I think it's fine. Again I very much appreciate your responses here! Thank you for the peace of mind.
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Anyone else receive theirs? Was hoping to see some pics surfacing.
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Just got a shipping notification! :grin:
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Here ya go Korvus!
(https://i.imgur.com/iks0upTl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LexRU74l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FNvGmLCl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z71xp06l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aN029DLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xB3sVfnl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WCVKUtxl.jpg)
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Looks great! That is also a classy display you've got there. What kind of cases are those?
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Looks great! That is also a classy display you've got there. What kind of cases are those?
They're actually from the dollar store called Daiso here in Japan. They look pretty nice, but are actually just cheap plastic. Perfect for display though! They're just three separate ones stacked on top of each other.
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Looks great! That is also a classy display you've got there. What kind of cases are those?
They're actually from the dollar store called Daiso here in Japan. They look pretty nice, but are actually just cheap plastic. Perfect for display though! They're just three separate ones stacked on top of each other.
I was thinking they appeared to be stacked. Fooled me on the quality though. They look solid. Any idea what they are meant for?
Sorry for the sidetrack. Looks like it's just you and me on this board anyway. :cheesy:
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Looks great! That is also a classy display you've got there. What kind of cases are those?
They're actually from the dollar store called Daiso here in Japan. They look pretty nice, but are actually just cheap plastic. Perfect for display though! They're just three separate ones stacked on top of each other.
I was thinking they appeared to be stacked. Fooled me on the quality though. They look solid. Any idea what they are meant for?
Sorry for the sidetrack. Looks like it's just you and me on this board anyway. :cheesy:
They actually are pretty solid. The dollar stores in Japan are freaking amazing. Those cases are indeed display cases though. Mostly for action figures I think, but they sell several different kinds in various shapes and sizes. And I think it looks pretty decent considering I only spent about $3 on the entire display.
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Looks great! That is also a classy display you've got there. What kind of cases are those?
They're actually from the dollar store called Daiso here in Japan. They look pretty nice, but are actually just cheap plastic. Perfect for display though! They're just three separate ones stacked on top of each other.
I was thinking they appeared to be stacked. Fooled me on the quality though. They look solid. Any idea what they are meant for?
Sorry for the sidetrack. Looks like it's just you and me on this board anyway. :cheesy:
They actually are pretty solid. The dollar stores in Japan are freaking amazing. Those cases are indeed display cases though. Mostly for action figures I think, but they sell several different kinds in various shapes and sizes. And I think it looks pretty decent considering I only spent about $3 on the entire display.
Only $3? That's insane. I think they look great.
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My saber just arrived. Quick first impressions are this thing is sexy, SUPER bright, and it sounds amazing. The expected VV quality is there in spades. The included sound founts are superb and the fact they made sure to adjust some of the inaccuracies found in the initial ESB version is extremely appreciated. Now, I have to go play with my new toy. It's soooooooooooooooo bright!
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Did you try the delayed deactivation Luminara suggested, fsuman? I do find myself accidentally deactivating the saber quite often and was wondering if the delay helped.
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Did you try the delayed deactivation Luminara suggested, fsuman? I do find myself accidentally deactivating the saber quite often and was wondering if the delay helped.
Nope, not yet. I used it for Halloween, but I changed my grip on it so that I wasn't accidentally turning it off and on. But I still plan on adjusting it.
Have you changed any of the other settings? I have found that the default settings as far as swing sensitivity are perfect for me. I never get phantom swing noises because the sensitivity is too high, but I also don't have to swing very hard to get the sounds to register. It must be a fine balance, but it's really been super tight. I wonder if that's because of the CSv4? I had to mess with the settings on my Flex quite a bit to get them to my liking.
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Did you try the delayed deactivation Luminara suggested, fsuman? I do find myself accidentally deactivating the saber quite often and was wondering if the delay helped.
Nope, not yet. I used it for Halloween, but I changed my grip on it so that I wasn't accidentally turning it off and on. But I still plan on adjusting it.
Have you changed any of the other settings? I have found that the default settings as far as swing sensitivity are perfect for me. I never get phantom swing noises because the sensitivity is too high, but I also don't have to swing very hard to get the sounds to register. It must be a fine balance, but it's really been super tight. I wonder if that's because of the CSv4? I had to mess with the settings on my Flex quite a bit to get them to my liking.
Yeah, aside from the delay there is nothing I think I need to change. The swings are perfect.
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Finally got around to modifying the deactivation delay. I changed it from 200 (400 ms) to 800 (1600 ms). Accidental deactivation problem solved.
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Finally got around to modifying the deactivation delay. I changed it from 200 (400 ms) to 800 (1600 ms). Accidental deactivation problem solved.
Great to know! Thanks for sharing that. There still isn't a user manual for CSv4 yet, right? Were the settings easy to find?
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Finally got around to modifying the deactivation delay. I changed it from 200 (400 ms) to 800 (1600 ms). Accidental deactivation problem solved.
Great to know! Thanks for sharing that. There still isn't a user manual for CSv4 yet, right? Were the settings easy to find?
I didn't see a CSv4 manual so I just referenced the v3 one. Had no problems finding the settings.
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Just got my VDR today. Love it, but my aux switch sticks badly. It either stays depressed so the aux sound effects go crazy either with continuous blaster or blade lockup sounds. I have to pull it back up to stop it. Any way to loosen the button to make it spring back up after each press? This seems to happen with a few of the fonts. Something to do with low battery perhaps? I haven't had time to fully charge it yet.
Also so much of the blade is lost in the hilt I feel like I need a blade an extra couple of inches just to make up for it compared to my Hero.