FX-Sabers.com
The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => Acerocket's Orbital Machining => Topic started by: Acerocket on January 13, 2017, 08:04:49 AM
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When you get your saber, it will be in an 'assembled' condition with a small parts bag in the box. I did not fully assemble the sabers in case people want to polish before hand.
An overview of the saber.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi726.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww266%2Facerocket%2Fskinnyflex%2FAnakin%2520ROTS%252014%2520new_zpsochkkbgk.jpg&hash=689c3de56f964ec7c44de0bbbccf1653ec916e23) (http://s726.photobucket.com/user/acerocket/media/skinnyflex/Anakin%20ROTS%2014%20new_zpsochkkbgk.jpg.html)
To install the pommel insert, you use the large rubber o-ring included in the small parts bag to secure it. You need a long pick or flat screwdriver or some similar tool to get the o-ring secured in the groove in the bottom of the grip. If you are using the hero insert, you need to add the small 0-80 screw and nut (included in the small parts bag) the the small center hole in the hero insert.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi726.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww266%2Facerocket%2Fskinnyflex%2FAnakin%2520ROTS%252015%2520new_zps2ja2fpeu.jpg&hash=687b00e282c593ffd3f1ec5529aec0a7e8b5f008) (http://s726.photobucket.com/user/acerocket/media/skinnyflex/Anakin%20ROTS%2015%20new_zps2ja2fpeu.jpg.html)
Care must be taken with the band on the front of the grip section. It is loose because of the design requirement for accurate grip knurl and being able to open for a reveal (not my first choice, but it is what people wanted). There is a small set screw opposite the box and a screw through the box that secures it. Do not overtighten the small set screw or it can 'oval' the ring. The set screw is to lock the front half in when closed and to a lesser extent to hold the band in place. I would highly suggest some kind of glue, epoxy, etc be used once you are ready to install the band for the final time (glue the band to the knurl section). It was left loose on purpose as mentioned before in case people want to polish their sabers before assembly.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi726.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww266%2Facerocket%2Fskinnyflex%2FAnakin%2520ROTS%252011_zpshlkxdzdy.jpg&hash=d1ba3aa968323c1432a2d3bd2394627ef0e2767b) (http://s726.photobucket.com/user/acerocket/media/skinnyflex/Anakin%20ROTS%2011_zpshlkxdzdy.jpg.html)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi726.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww266%2Facerocket%2Fskinnyflex%2FAnakin%2520ROTS%25209_zpsclfgejir.jpg&hash=668c2953281cc7f1706440b76629344165ed9ad6) (http://s726.photobucket.com/user/acerocket/media/skinnyflex/Anakin%20ROTS%209_zpsclfgejir.jpg.html)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi726.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww266%2Facerocket%2Fskinnyflex%2FAnakin%2520ROTS%252010_zps1bjgu7pu.jpg&hash=f5fb8e081a28f295a18da2f3e29247f49801386c) (http://s726.photobucket.com/user/acerocket/media/skinnyflex/Anakin%20ROTS%2010_zps1bjgu7pu.jpg.html)
In the spare parts bag, you will find the hero and blade necks. The hero neck should be self-explanatory. The blade neck requires assembly with your blade stock. You must use a 7/8" thin wall blade material. The silver collar goes over the end of the blade, and the black neck goes inside the blade tube. There is a 6-32 set screw that goes through all three parts (threading is in the silver collar only). You will need to mark and drill the hole in your blade stock. Again, some glue or something might be helpful for a better fit. Yes, I realize that is not much blade depth and you most likely won't be able to duel with your saber, but it was made abundantly clear to me that people wanted accuracy first, not functionality.
When you are working with the buttons, please be very careful not to lose or mix up the short screws that hold on the switch bezel bases. I do not have extra screws, I will not offer extra screws (they were an utter nightmare to cut down). If you lose them, I can give you the closest size and you will need to modify them yourself.
The blade retaining screw (also holds the shroud to the blade holder section) is a little long. You will need to decide if you want to shorten it to your liking or leave it alone.
Brass pins - my suggestion - use tweezers and be careful.
Chassis - no, I did not design a chassis, no I will not design or make chassis parts. The internal setup is entirely up to you. If you want to make a 3D printed chassis and don't want the threaded rods, then you can remove them from the spring plate setup. You do not want the chassis rods, you don't need to use them. If you want to use them, the rods are evenly spaced 120 apart on a .9274" circle. ID in the front section is about 1.28", ID in the knurl section is about 1.14 and ID in the rear grip section is about 1.125".
I will try and check into this thread periodically to answer some questions, but I won't be able to answer everything on a moment's notice. Please have patience. If you find a trick or way to do something that works for you, feel free to post it for other members to follow too.
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Awesome. Thanks Ace :jediblue:
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Thanks, just got mine this morning, assembling now - it looks AMAZING!!! :grin:
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Sweet please share pics
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Some pics! Thanks so much, Wat, I love it!!!
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi847.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab35%2Ftinyasterisms%2FC2USD_eWQAEIbyz_zpsbxda4gwq.jpg&hash=3509d31bb08b636e8be446431726cffb312e483c)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi847.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab35%2Ftinyasterisms%2FC2USD_hWIAAUcfT_zpsq7s1toal.jpg&hash=0bce54c073e28d987c1bdea82076b2eadea1b1de)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi847.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab35%2Ftinyasterisms%2FC2UXQGpXAAA12v8_zps2yxmmuvu.jpg&hash=c4c988223921b2066757195c521683b6146fd48f)
EDIT: Put a few dabs of superglue on the circuit board to hold it in place and then realized that the switch is on upside down...OOPS! :sad: *gets some acetone*
EDIT: FIXED! :grin:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi847.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab35%2Ftinyasterisms%2FC2U6DIZXAAEemLm_zpsjpexdzlv.jpg&hash=c16d6a005b1ccd444c4d9c410966d90b63b4d118)
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The saber is gorgeous! Thanks Ace!
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Awesome thanks so much
Very nice how does the reveal spring load work?
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Awesome thanks so much
Very nice how does the reveal spring load work?
Great! There's *very* little wiggle when the saber is closed. Makes sense with the reveal, but the tolerances are really tight.
To unlock, you press the top portion of the saber down towards the bottom and twist - this is smooth, but it takes a fair bit of force, so it's not going to happen accidentally. After it's free, it's all loose and there's the three rods attached to the top half - I'm assuming people will build the rods into their chassis system, so the rest of the sliding action will rely on that.
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Got mine today! Thanks Wat!
Can't wait to get some electronics into it.
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Got mine and it's so much better than the pictures could show. Thanks for the awesome work Wat, it's amazing.
I do have a question though, say I want to have the hero pommel insert installed when I have it on display, but want to install the other insert when I have it off the shelf with electronics in it. Is there an easy or advisable way to remove the o-ring holding the insert in place? Or another way besides using an o-ring to hold the inserts in?
Thanks.
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Got mine and it's so much better than the pictures could show. Thanks for the awesome work Wat, it's amazing.
I do have a question though, say I want to have the hero pommel insert installed when I have it on display, but want to install the other insert when I have it off the shelf with electronics in it. Is there an easy or advisable way to remove the o-ring holding the insert in place? Or another way besides using an o-ring to hold the inserts in?
Thanks.
I use a long pick (got a pack of 10 from Harbor Freight for like 5 dollars) and you can pull the o-ring out and swap inserts. It would be near impossible to get a retaining ring in that deep grip. Other than the o-ring, not sure how you would hold the insert in. Maybe if you had a chassis you could mount them too?
I don't see the set I got years ago, but here is one similar 6 Piece Pick Set (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pick-set-93514.html) They are just dental type picks.
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I use a long pick (got a pack of 10 from Harbor Freight for like 5 dollars) and you can pull the o-ring out and swap inserts. It would be near impossible to get a retaining ring in that deep grip. Other than the o-ring, not sure how you would hold the insert in. Maybe if you had a chassis you could mount them too?
I don't see the set I got years ago, but here is one similar 6 Piece Pick Set (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pick-set-93514.html) They are just dental type picks.
Great, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I had thought about the chassis idea, which could be a cool feature when the center is exposed.
Thanks again for this awesome saber.
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Got mine today, very happy with it.
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I can't wait to see all the different reveals and installs on these.. please post your builds no 2 will be alike
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Anyone know what is the threaded rod size? I've looked but can't see it.
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Anyone know what is the threaded rod size? I've looked but can't see it.
4-40
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Thanks. One more thing what size hex key do I need? None of my metric ones fit.
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Because all the screws are standard/imperial. Not sure what screw you are trying to loosen or tighten. I don't have the hardware list in front of me, but I think most hardware was under 4-40. So going to need some small wrenches. Off hand, I would say you will likely need .050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32" and possibly a 7/64". I will look for the hardware tomorrow and get you a more definitive answer then.
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That's cool. I haven't tried all of the screws yet but I tried the first screw on the control box and the blade retention screw and none of my metric ones fit. :embarrassed:
Thanks
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Anyone who has built one of these up - did you find the display/hero insert was impossible to insert? I can't tell whether its because the LED lens is creating a vacuum or something else?
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I have a request I've been looking high and low for one of these sabers to no avail :cry: as usual I was a day late and a dollar short when this run was going on lol is there anyone out there that may have purchased more than one that could help me out I've posted on every forum I could think of reached out to anyone I thought might have one they would part with and search eBay almost every day trying to get lucky. I haven't tried this yet though and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask thanks
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I am holding out hope for another run of these in the next year or two.