FX-Sabers.com
FX-Sabers Discussion - Including a Gallery of custom sabers. => Questions/Comments => Topic started by: HAN SOLO on January 20, 2008, 07:39:24 PM
-
Hello There Folks! :D
This thread is the Ultimate Question Thread. This thread is designed to avoid PMing the heck out of the Moderators' PM Inboxes. I will constantly check this thread to see if there are any questions that require immediate EVERYTIME I sign on. This, however, doesn't mean that you'll receive the answer right away. I may not have an answer, and I will have to seek it for you. Please keep in mind, that these questions are to be valid and not a question like, "Can you help me out. My friend has a new car and he wants me to go for a ride in it with him. Should I?" OR "My cat Bootsie is pretty crazy, how do I calm him down?" The questions that should be in this thread should be thoroughly researched and should be a last resort. The Site has a HUGE number of knowledgeable threads, hence, try using the search engine. ;D Please keep the posts to only:
- asking a question
- if a MEMBER has an appropriate answer, post it
Please REFRAIN from posting an agreement post such as:
- "Yeah, MEMBER 1 is right, go there on check it out"
- "MEMBER 2 knows his stuff. He is awesome and he'll point you in the right direction"
DON'T post an acknowledgement after reading this and keep the lines open for questions! :D
FIRE AWAY! 8)
*UPDATED May 27, 2008*
The Moderators agree with this in Council......Please research you questions. We are now getting topics and posts in regards what can be done with 10-15 minutes of looking up the answer. The Search Engine is tricky to use. So if you need to, look in threads that you think they would be in. Thanks.
ALL NEW MEMBERS, PLEASE STOP WHAT YOU ARE ABOUT TO TYPE AND READ THROUGH THE FORUMS TO FIND THE SIMPLE ANSWERS TO THE SIMPLE QUESTIONS YOU ARE POSING. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!! 8)
Read this thread again if you are unsure of anything.....
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=10747.0
-
*I just edited the subject of the post*
Never change the Subject of the Thread.
Put your question in the message area.
Question: looking for pics and videos of the sun riders destiny color
please post your pics and videos here i am curoius about this color and i want to get a better look at it thankyou
-
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=346
Not all of those pictures are the same bin that Alex uses, but you get the idea ;)
-
Thanks for swinging it back on track, Aluke. And keeping the proper Subject Area.
For Members in the future, please do not change the Subject Area. 8)
-
How does one go about extracting a sound card and clash sensor from a Luke ANH. Is there any way to keep the saber functional after this?
-
There ya go RJ.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9540.0
-
http://www.businesswire.com/portal/site/google/index.jsp?ndmViewId=news_view&newsId=20080110006137&newsLang=en
This link suggests that hasbro wont be making any more mace windou sabers or at least it wasnt mentioned. Does this mean that no more mace windou sabers will be made? I was told by someone that this site will have more mace converted sabers in after a couple weeks which is good to hear for sure at least I can get a mace lux i wonder how well the mace was selling perhaps that is the reason why hasbro may not be making anymore of them
-
By "this site" do you mean Ultra Sabers?
Yes, they will have more conversion kits soon, because Tim at TCSS made more.
If Hasbro doesn't make the Mace saber, the eventually the market will dry up, and Ultra Sabers won't offer the preconverted saber anymore. I bet they'd still offer the DIY version of the kit though ;)
-
Great thread idea Tarkin.
How long is the hilt of the Overlord? I know the emitter and pommel as I have one of each just want to know the body length.
Reason- I am still trying to decide how long a hilt is too long. I don't want to sacrifice any of my internal goodies but don't want the hilt to feel or appear too long. I think the overlord seems to be a nice size.
-
I spent 10 minutes searching for Tyranus's exact measurements to no avail.
From memory, the main black part of the hilt is 8-9 inches. Add on the emitter and pommel, and it is around 11-12 inches.
I'll keep searching for the specifics. ;)
EDIT - WOOT!! Found 'em.
Pommel to Emitter: 12.25"
Blade: 36" (34" from emitter) 1" O.D.
Total (Pommel To Blade Tip): 46.25"
Hilt O.D.: 1.375"
-
Yes I mean ultra sabers I apologize for my mistake. Second I meant that I was wondering if there will be more mace sabers available that are already converted second I am not after a mace conversion kit I am after a mace saber that is already converted and I was told there would be i dont have one but i want one ;D
-
Buy one from EBay and send it to Ultra for a conversion. Also, the Search button is your friend.
-
Ultra will have more preconverted Maces soon. Patience is a virtue.
-
Thankyou I will have patience, I will not respond to the remark about ebay or anything concernign ebay thankyou both once again
-
this may indeed be an odd queston but im still going to ask it does anyone have a video of them changing the color filter in their luxeons? Id like to see it done and for people who havent done it before it would defenitely be useful
-
Why is a video needed for that? It's pretty self-explanatory.
1. Remove blade.
2. Drop color disc into emitter
3. Replace blade
4. Turn saber on....
Seriously, it's THAT easy.
-
my bad sorry and i understand that a few color discs come with it? or am i wrong
-
Yes, several colored filters come with a preconverted Ultra Mace. The exact number of which is unknown to me, but you can best bet you'll get have at least all of your basic colors.
-
12 color discs are included.
-
Wow that is generous of them what colors if I may ask? I wonder what colors can be formed when mixing green and red etc likely nothing though still this is really neat
-
I wouldn't recommend using more than one disc at a time, you'll really lose brightness.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg186.imageshack.us%2Fimg186%2F8323%2F633yz0.jpg&hash=063c1d04a9f0faf9cf1cf9c2a2871253992f0ae2)
you can right-click and view larger image
-
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2F633.jpg&hash=04dc0e79ac9c5f233210acfe27518bf803967270)
Those are all the colors.
If you mix two colors, you'll get a SUPER dim blade, and they won't mix well.
-
dang very sweet
-
Okay I edited it. I was wrong to post what I did...
Seriously though, This question has arisen SOOOOOO many times before, and has been beaten to death, dragged through the mud, resurrected, shot to pieces, re-kindled, chewed-up like a soup sandwich, regurgitated, expectorated, walked on, burned into the fabric of the universe, and answered literally ALL OVER this website.
I really do not mean to go on a tirade about it, but HOW many topics are there on these forums that have Color discs and filters as the subject matter?
FACT: Color discs drop your lumen count because filtering the colors from white light changes the visible spectrum of the source by filtering through ONLY the color of the filter. White light is consisting of infrared, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, and ultraviolet. If you block the other colors out, your lumens change. (that is the measurement of visible light that falls in an area) Candela is the measurement of the light source's output....
FACT: Solid color LED's will ALWAYS appear brighter (and cripser in color) than a white LED with color filters. Although a HIGH quality filter with a good transferrance, and a high candlepower white LED can be comperable, but you have to take into account voltage and current requirements and limitations of the LED for the desired effect. You also need to make sure your electronics can handle that voltage and current.
For example The normal forward voltage for a Lux V is 6.84V and it draws a current of 700mA. An MR board can more than handle the CURRENT, but the Voltage requirements of the LED are higher than an MR board can normally handle. This is due to the fact that in order to light a Lux V at optimal brightness, you need a battery output of voltage higher than the target voltage of the LED. Running anything more than 6 volts through an MR board will make the magic smoke appear sooner or later. Anything over 6.5 and you can kiss the board goodbye.
FACT: Color discs can be neat for variety if you want a white blade, but want to change up now and then, but don't go expecting AWESOME results from a lux III white with the discs. It just won't happen, and you will be setting yourself up for disappointment.
-
ok tyrnaus dont know what u meant by that but ok
-
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe289%2FAcidalias%2Fjudge.gif&hash=181a77e7fd0379620faef849d11328eee57c3d63) ORDER, ORDER.....Please keep this for a question and answer thread. Thank you, folks!
-
I edited my previous post. ;D
-
Why hasnt this site ever made a custom connector for the vader, luke etc sabers?It seems to me all that is needed is the right tubing and a few grooves however I am likely wrong I typed in couplers but I didnt come accroos anything so that is why I asked in here however if there is a link to a subject on this please link me
-
First off, who is "this site?" Second of all, couplers for Force-FX Sabers haven't been made much (although I have seen them) because there is very little demand for them. Apparently, the prospect of linking two hilts other than a Maul doesn't excite many people. Can't imagine why...
That's the best answer I can give you.
-
i apologise i meant ultra sabers LLC and also on a site they are sold out!!! not much call ok but my facts suggest other wise
-
Instead of always saying "this site" and "on a site," try naming specifics.
The "other site" you refer to is Force FX. They have been sold out for over 6 months, because Jedi Arms Dealer (the one who makes couplers) has basically stopped. He did make couplers for the Mace Windu, Vader ESB, Anakin ROTS, and Luke ROTJ at one point in time.
The problem with a coupler for a standard FX, is that the pommels on them only have 2-3 threads. That means it can strip out VERY EASY. The Maul saber, on the other hand, as a good 8 threads, making it FAR harder to strip it.
To my knowledge, Jedi Arms Dealer didn't have the greatest quality control, and if a product was bad, he wouldn't replace it.
-
ah ok good points and ty. I guess making couplers is indeed a pain ty very much for the information :)
-
Do an ebay seach from time to time.... You can still get them now and then on there.
If you want them badly enough, talk to one of the SABERSMITHS here (banish the thought) and see if they might machine some up for you....
Google is your friend there too.... You can still find them, you just have to rub the neurons together and be able to type in a search query in the search bar.... 8)
-
pass on ebay no offense. But a saber smith soudns good plus if they make it my sabers wouldnt get damaged likely .
-
Your sabers wouldn't be damaged if you went with eBay ::)
It is the nature of the beast. If you couple two normal MR sabers and even lightly duel with them, the threading WILL strip out. No one can make a coupler that doesn't have that fatal flaw.
-
Tkankyou once again i still give you the old heave ho on ebay though nature of the best with me on this one maybe some day but at this time no way thanks though your information has been most useful
-
What Aluke123 is saying, is that even if you had someone custom make the coupler, you still run the risk of stripping out threads.
The problem lies in the different composition of metals, and the fact that the pommel ends of the MR hilts, really weren't meant to couple together due to their design.
The exception to this is the Darth Maul FX which was designed with DEEP openings that the STEEL coupler threads into. It was DESIGNED as a staff, the others were not. The pommel ends on any other MR saber were designed to hold only one load...the endcap, that's it.
Now this does not go to day that a double Mace Windu, Luke ROTJ, or Obi-Wan ROTS wouldn't look cool, but there is no way in xxx that I would EVER duel with them. The risk is just too high.
If you're wanting a DUELABLE Staff, It would be advisable to stick with a converted Maul, or a custom MHS staff. If yo're wanting to just have a cool looking display saber, then by all means...Go for it.
-
I saw a few different topics on the mace saber but I didnt comce accross one about an easy way to tell the difference between the different cersions. In short i may be buying one from a store near me but if I do I want to know what version it is cause to my knowledge ultra sabers can only convert certain verions of the mace saber am I correct?
-
Conversion wise both versions of the Mace Windu saber are EXACTLY the same. It will say on the box whether it is the Mace ROTS or AOTC.
-
Am I right that one is louder? Is there any videos comapring thme side by side? Finally is that the only difference?
-
It is subjective whether one has better sound than the other.
Not that I know of. There really isn't anything to compare. They are really just the same saber in a different box. One saber has a slightly purpler blade than the other.
Two differences: The sound (basically the same) and the blade (ROTS has better coloring).
Google is your Friend.
-
The Mace ROTS has a more purple blade (the AOTC is tad more on the pinkish side). Supposedly the ROTS is slightly louder. I wouldn't worry about it. Also, if you convert the saber the blade issue will disappear. The version really doesn't matter, save for collectors value. Google is your friend!
-
howie, I think you're missing some of the rules of the thread. No acknowledging (tkvm), etc. It's just ask questions, get an answer. ask another question. get another answer. fluff in-between is not needed.
back on topic:
Can I wire up a Cree LED the same way I wire up a Luxeon III?
And will an MR sound board power it up?
-
Can I run two Red LUX III off of one Corb1n LUX driver?
Do I need to use a resister with the LUX driver?
-
Can I wire up a Cree LED the same way I wire up a Luxeon III?
And will an MR sound board power it up?
Yes and Yes ;)
Can I run two Red LUX III off of one Corb1n LUX driver?
Do I need to use a resister with the LUX driver?
Not sure and no ;)
-
Ok, instead of using the switches at TCSS, will any of these:
1) Work?
2) Fit the hole in the TCSS hilts?
A) mounts in 1/2" hole
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062510&cp=&sr=1&origkw=spst+switch&kw=spst+switch&parentPage=search
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg156.imageshack.us%2Fimg156%2F8503%2Fprs1c2160419w345sh8.jpg&hash=58f8fe6ca3e0fbcbdf57df645d015b9bc82405eb)
B) mounts in 1/2" hole
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508&cp=&sr=1&origkw=spst+switch&kw=spst+switch&parentPage=search
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg208.imageshack.us%2Fimg208%2F2999%2Faaaahv5.jpg&hash=e71732a3fd377d58f6d19e518049cf1217be96e2)
C) mounts in 1/4" hole
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&pg=2&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2062540&accessories=accessories&kw=spst+switch&techSpecs=techSpecs¤tTab=techSpecs&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=spst+switch&support=support&tab=summary
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg238.imageshack.us%2Fimg238%2F9492%2Fprs1c2160449w345wg0.jpg&hash=29d56397cefb675d05dc604519ae18733d4519d3)
-
None of those will fit in the TCSS switch hole. The TCSS hole is 3/8"
The first two I assume are latching. Those can work with anything except for an Ultrasound.
The third is momentary so it will only work with Ultrasound, Corbin's Driver, and Crystal Focus. That is also a sucky switch that is prone to breaking.
-
Those first two are momentary but they will not fit the TCSS switch holes. They are 1/2" mounting frames.
The other ones... Stay FAR away from those... EVERY single one of them I have ever used crapped out after a day. The plungers on them wear out really fast, and they aren't really made all that well, especially for sabers.
-
ok, i'll stick with TCSS switches, unless someone knows where Ultra is sourcing his low profile switches.
I just bought the double acrylic stand from this site, what is the easiest way to hold this stand together? Superglue?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg292.imageshack.us%2Fimg292%2F1120%2Fdoublecloseupta2.gif&hash=6a168fb8749fed882f1f611faa5ff7d03649ccb0)
-
I would assume that the pressure from the saber and snugly fitting parts would hold it together.
DO NOT use superglue. It will fog the clear acrylic. I really don't think you'll need anything.
-
To eliminate the lean use scotch tape in the joints to get a tighter fit. Be careful not to put to many layers in as the fit will become too tight and may break if forced. Give that a try.
As told to me by the maker when I asked him the same question.
-
Okies. I stand corrected. :P
Still, don't use superglue, whatever you do. That will fog the stand.
-
For the stands from Yoda use weldon glue. I have on the verticals and it works great. Just make sure you get the $2 bottle with needle applicator as this stuff is like water and it makes applying it so much easier.
For the switches just an idea here. You could put on a brass or chrome sinktube sleeve that would cover the TCSS hole then drill another hole the right size for the switch you intend to use. You could also find some other type of hardware like the brass anakin buttons or other type of trinket to plug the hole cosmetically then redrill another hole. Just some more ideas for you.
-
Cool. I have the same issue.
-
The new switches from Ultra will fit the TCSS stuff but you just need to enlarge the bore for the switch to 7/16" with a 5/8" counter-bore so it will sit flush, just don't go too deep with the counter-bore because these switches are LONG. We're talking 1" from the bottom of the bezel to the ends of the solder lugs.
It's a tight fit in an MHS based saber, but they look KILLER on a saber.
-
Can I run two Red LUX III off of one Corb1n LUX driver?
Do I need to use a resister with the LUX driver?
Finally have a answer for your Corbin board question.
You can. Wire the LEDs in series, and use a higher voltage pack. 9.6V is ideal, 7.2V will do in a pinch.
-
series?
I tried today both in parelle and they worked, Will they be brighter in series? I using 6v (4 AAA pack)
-
6V is totally underpowering the LEDs. I asked Xwing on TCSS, he told me to wire em in series. He knows his stuff...
-
ok, wiring question: Vader ESB board
want to make sure I have this right:
#1 goes to POSITIVE LED
#2 goes to NEGATIVE LED
#3 goes to ON/OFF SWITCH
#4 goes to BATTERY?
There's a purple wire in #4. Does that go to the speaker?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg408.imageshack.us%2Fimg408%2F2451%2Fvadercardwh5.jpg&hash=fc714f65aaff0623bf226b7a53d4a9dd386064bb)
this is what it's going into:
LED and Batteries will go into the ribbed section with quick-disconnects. Everything else goes into SHILT3.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg408.imageshack.us%2Fimg408%2F8310%2Fninjakensw7.jpg&hash=1a8a56507a09e710eaf4a51b9d9b184fbd36b2d5)
-
That looks good to me. #4 goes to batteries.
The MR board is funky. The speaker and battery pack share a common positive. Here is a diagram of how to wire it.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi112.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn187%2Faluke_2006%2Fwiringsketch.jpg&hash=cc65ecc6bf28c8573cfd59ebd44f9919bf7b8ae7)
-
ok, wiring question: Vader ESB board
want to make sure I have this right:
#1 goes to POSITIVE LED
#2 goes to NEGATIVE LED
#3 goes to ON/OFF SWITCH
#4 goes to BATTERY?
There's a purple wire in #4. Does that go to the speaker?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg408.imageshack.us%2Fimg408%2F2451%2Fvadercardwh5.jpg&hash=fc714f65aaff0623bf226b7a53d4a9dd386064bb)
this is what it's going into:
LED and Batteries will go into the ribbed section with quick-disconnects. Everything else goes into SHILT3.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg408.imageshack.us%2Fimg408%2F8310%2Fninjakensw7.jpg&hash=1a8a56507a09e710eaf4a51b9d9b184fbd36b2d5)
It's normally a red, black and brown wire on the inputs... Not sure about purple.
All of those contacts should be labelled as follows:
Red = VDD (board positive)
Black = GND (board negative)
Brown= Speaker Negative
Wire the speaker positive to VDD, and the speaker negative to the brown wire.
Here's what I would do....
1. Reverse where your battery pack and board are. You want that board up by the LED... trust me. it will make your wiring job easier! 8)
2. See that battery interface board where the 3 wire molex harness plugs into it? Unplug that connector from that board.
3. Take the battery interface board and de-solder the white female 3-pin connector (you want to SAVE THIS PART), and set it aside for later use. You can throw away the battery pin interface board after this step.
4. Get an MHS speaker mount from TCSS. solder your speaker leads to the speaker and install it in the ring. Use red, and another different color of your choosing of wire (I'll use green for reference though), and make sure you make these wires pretty long... You'll see what I mean in a moment.
5. Solder the Green wire to the negative tab on the speaker, and the red to the positive tab.
6. Glue your speaker and mounting ring to the bottom of the battery pack.
7. Okay, now the fun part! You should now have the following: Battery pack with mounted speaker, with two long leads from the speaker (green for negative red for positive) and your two leads from your battery pack. Thake the red and green wires from the speaker and run them up one side of the battery pack. Glue or attach them to the pack so they run up the side and parallel with the battery pack leads.
8. Now is a good time to slide some shrink tube over all 4 wires and butt it against the pack and shrink it to make the harness more solid. now make sure that all your wires are even in length. Strip your ends of the wires and twist the two red wires together. Leave the green and black wires alone.
9. Plug the 3 wire molex connector from the board into the female socket from step #3. Slide a Larger diameter piece of shrink tubing over the four wires coming from the battery pack (don't shrink it yet). Then solder the wires from your new battery pack assembly to the corresponding pins on the female molex connector. Red to red, black to black, green to brown.
10. Disconnect the connectors, pull the heat shrink tubing onto the female connector just enough to cover your solder joints and a little bit of the female molex socket. Shrink it down.
11. Reconnect the plugs.
12. You might want to consider cutting the wires from the sound board and making them long enough so that you can easily access the connectors for your battery pack through the pommel.
Basically, if you follow these instructions, you have just made a battery/speaker module that will seat firmly in the MHS hilt and still has a quick disconnect to remove the batteries.
I know it sounds like a lot of work, but you have the parts at your disposal, why not recycle a bit?
-
When will the other types of blades become avaiable? There use to be a heavy blade etc but i dont see them anymore
-
When will the other types of blades become avaiable? There use to be a heavy blade etc but i dont see them anymore
Here we go with "the website" vagueness again... ::)
If you mean Ultrablades... I have no idea...
My first guess: WHEN THEY GET MORE 1/8" POLYCARBONATE STOCK IN.
-
Howie, please be more specific with your questions. I notice that you have a tendancy to ask questions, but they are too vague.
REMEMBER
This website has NUMEROUS Saber Guild Members and their sites / products listed here. Be specific in your questionning. That way, the person assisting you will not give a smart-arse comment. Unfortunately, most of us cannot read minds. Thank you. 8)
-
My apologies...
It's been a LOOOOOONG day.
I need to get my announcement up about shipping delayed until tomorrow on all my items... ::)
And well... Yeah the vagueness doesn't help us get an answer. Please...(PRETTY PLEASE) :) Be more specific with inquiries.
*Puts crystal ball and tarot cards away* ;D
-
No need to apologize, "Miss Tyo"! :D
We need to be very specific in rgeards to our questions. Thank you.
I am stepping out for a bit, PM you lately, Lord Tyrannosaurs!
-
Question! ;D : What's the difference between Luke's ROTJ V1 and V2? And how did Luke have 2 different hilts in the same flim? I don't remember anything like that.
-
I think the v2 is all weathered and crusty. lol. there was a clip that someone found where it was shown but not used in the film. Aluke may remember where that thread was.
-
So the V2 was never seen on screen?
-
Okay, Basically The V2 was a shared prop... It was the stunt prop for Obi-Wan in "A New Hope" With a few modifications made to it.
It is seen in Four scenes in ROTJ clearly. (six actually but I grouped them)
1. Jabba's Sail Barge (shot out of R2's dome) And getting shot in the hand on the barge deck
2. Endor Moon conversation with Vader and slicing speeder bike..
3. On the armrest of Emperor Palpatine's Throne in the confrontation scenes
4. Ewok Village celebration scenes hanging from Luke's Belt
The v1 or "Hero" version has a copper neck and windvane section, copper control box top, and is a nice flawless looking saber hilt. No "nub" on the emitter. (there is a version of this WITH the nub also) It also has a Tri-Ring instead of a D-ring. There are two V1's One is a spun aluminum, and the other is a resin copy.
There is a THIRD Hero prop that is kind of Controversial. It is a Close-up "Reveal" saber that can be seen at the Elstree props website. Basically it is a version that was never seen on film (at least that exists anymore). the saber opens up to show the inner workings. Speculatively, this saber was produced for the scene where Luke is building the saber in Obi-Wan's hut in the Jundland Wastes. There is much debate as to whether or not this prop really ever existed on film.
The V2, is the "Weathered" Obi-Wan modified prop that had the "blade" marker for the original filming of ANH cut off 1/2" from the Emitter causing the "nub". It has black "paint wear" or smudging, and looks more "USED" than the hero prop. It also has a Graflex flash clamp instead of the big ativator box that the Hero has. The Tri-Ring from the hero prop was replaced with a D-ring.
The explanation of the differences can be found at: http://www.partsofsw.com (http://www.partsofsw.com)
-
huh, so the nub is not technically supposed to be viewed as a part of the emitter? Fascinating. And great link, thanks DT :)
-
Well yes it is a part of the emitter...
They prop designers and Lucas both agreed that it should stay as part of the emitter.
-
Well that's good, I always liked that part aesthetically, even tho it makes me wonder where the plasma beam is spewing from.
-
One of the mysteries of the Lightsaber. 8) ;D
-
It is also being suggested that the Hero was never actually seen in the film. We have seen the Stunt (V2), Shared Stunt (sail barge climb), and the Resin Stunt (shot from R2).
-
Hi, quick question for DT.
I'm going to wire this up for Tim tomorrow. This is a little different from the Vader board I used, I just wanted to clarify before I start:
#1 goes to negative LED
#2 goes to positive LED
#3 (crap, messed up the picture, it's #2 blue wire), I will add another wire and these two will go to the switch.
#4 will go to the battery pack and the speaker, just like before. I'll be using a MR speaker since Tim @ TCSS is out of stock of speakers.
right-click to englarge:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg91.imageshack.us%2Fimg91%2F1619%2Fbluemhsru5.jpg&hash=efd6fc861e8aad772be5afb10d2bca6d8027242f)
-
for the mail in conversion on ultra sabersllc does the price include the shipping price on the way back? i got my mace saber so now i got 3 sabers that need converting so now its a matter of puting the money aside and then im sending them in i dont know how much it will cost to send them over there im guessing 100 each lol
-
Chowser, I don't know if Tyrannus answered you or not, and you probably have it done already anyway, but in case anyone elae would like to know, I can answer that as well.
#1 is correct, #2 is also correct, as well as #3. #4 may have to have the plug removed depending on whether or not you are using the MR battery pack or not, and then solder the yellow wire to the red from the board, and the red from the battery pack. The brown from the speaker goes to the brown from the board and the black wire from the board obviously goes to the black wire from battery pack.
-
Hey howie, I PMed someone in regards to this. When they get back to, I'll let you know. Unless someone else has the answer. Have you tried emailing Ultra's Site? They're answering emails very promptly and I'm sure they''l have the answer. ;)
*CLICK HERE* (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=10771.0)
I would follow these instructions. ;D
-
for the mail in conversion on ultra sabersllc does the price include the shipping price on the way back? i got my mace saber so now i got 3 sabers that need converting so now its a matter of puting the money aside and then im sending them in i dont know how much it will cost to send them over there im guessing 100 each lol
Yes the price includes return shipping back to you.
-
when i order in my conversion can i switch the blades with each saber for example can i switch my luke plane blade or medum grade blade over to my mace saber? i just want to make sure i dont get them mixed up
-
With the conversion, you can put whatever blade you like. They are removeable. (Unless yours is an Ultra LED conversion, which I gather it isn't) The thickness of the blades is easily identified. Just look at the bottom of the blade and see which one has thicker material.
-
i dont know what the advantage of getting an ultra led conversion i was just thinking about going with standard luxeon conversion
-
i dont know what the advantage of getting an ultra led conversion i was just thinking about going with standard luxeon conversion
Ummm okay.... ::)
I was always under the impression that Ultra conversions were pretty much standard conversions...
Oh wait! I forgot that they use a nuclear power source and have the power of mind control! :D
-
That IS a answer howie. All of Ultra's MR conversions are EXACTLY THE SAME.
-
ooops ok man sory i am tired i gota think b4 i type sory man lol o well i made a mistake my apologies
-
That IS a answer howie. All of Ultra's MR conversions are EXACTLY THE SAME.
Actually no they're not. But we don't wish to get into the gory little details of every single little minor difference between each kit.
-
Two questions:
1. Does Ultra do a conversion for Luke ANH? I looked on their websire and didn't see it.
2. What is the circumference and diameter of the Joe Jedi w/o the changable parts on it?
-
1. No DIY kits
2. no idea...
-
RE: question #1
Thanks. I went back and saw the mail-in for $79. Having read other threads, I think that's for the best. I've only read the horror stories of disassembling the Luke ANH.
RE: question #2
The reason I ask is because I'm wondering if the "naked" hilt could fit inside an MHS. I'm beginning to think, however, that it might be more cost-effective to just build a new saber using TCSS parts. Any recommendations?
-
I'm here to test your knowledge! :D (Actually, I'm a n00b who has a ton of questions and the search engine is SLOW)
Question #1:
Which is a more accurate (to scale) representation of Obi-Wan's ROTS saber:
a. Master Replicas FX
b. Parks Dark Avenger
-
Well a Parks Dark Avenger is not - legally speaking - referred to as an Obi-Wan saber - due to patent issues. ;) As such, the hilt is not exactly the same as the Star Wars prop. But it does have a thinner neck, which makes it a little closer to the Obi-Wan ROTS in that respect.
The neck on the MR FX hilt was made much wider to allow for the electronics and the larger blade. Parks sabers have 3/4 blades, so you may not find that too screen-accurate. Plus, Parks sabers don't have sound. But the Avenger is still a really awesome-looking hilt.
So it all comes down to what you prefer. If I had to choose one, I'd definitely go for the Obi-Wan ROTS FX - because it's brighter, has sound, has the scrolling effect, and has a larger, 1 inch-wide blade. While the neck on it is not prop-accurate, all the other features and details more than make up for it. 8)
-
To further this and add a slight correction...
The Obi-Wan FX from MR is actuallya tad larger in diameter overall, but is close to accurate size. The hilt is thicker, The Emitter is larger, the pommel is slightly oversized, and the neck is WAAYYY off.
-
RE: question #1
Thanks. I went back and saw the mail-in for $79. Having read other threads, I think that's for the best. I've only read the horror stories of disassembling the Luke ANH.
RE: question #2
The reason I ask is because I'm wondering if the "naked" hilt could fit inside an MHS. I'm beginning to think, however, that it might be more cost-effective to just build a new saber using TCSS parts. Any recommendations?
RE to RE: Question 2. The Joe Jedi is close to the same O.D. as the MHS. I sold a set of MHS claws with mount to a member here, and they used it on a Joe Jedi hilt. However, the Hilt will NOT fit inside any MHS parts.
You might be able to use sinktubes as overlays though...
-
Question #2:
Which blade looks the most realistic when lit up...
a. during the day?
and...
b. at night?
-
By realistic, do you mean the brightness of the saber? All the newer generation, LED-based FXs look pretty realistic when ignited in total darkness. And how an FX looks in the daytime depends on how much surrounding light there is. As long as you don't take the saber out at high noon, you'll get a nice, realistic saber experience. 8) And that goes for most of the FXs.
But the green FXs, namely the Luke ROTJ and the Yoda, are brighter sabers that hold their own a tad better during the day.
-
I've thought of that, but I'm afraid it just wouldn't look as good.
Maybe a rubber tube to slide on the outside? Then I could cut in some grooves, maybe slip on an aluminum coat, and make it look like Qui-Gon's...
-
Actually A few people have done something like that. I remember seeing a thread over at TCSS forums where someone had added some ribbed landscaping border, or radiator hose to the Joe Jedi and it turned out really nicely.
-
By realistic, do you mean the brightness of the saber? All the newer generation, LED-based FXs look pretty realistic when ignited in total darkness. And how an FX looks in the daytime depends on how much surrounding light there is. As long as you don't take the saber out at high noon, you'll get a nice, realistic saber experience. 8) And that goes for most of the FXs.
But the green FXs, namely the Luke ROTJ and the Yoda, are brighter sabers that hold their own a tad better during the day.
Yes, this answers my question. Thanks.
Now for Question #3...
Neither Ultra nor TCSS makes a purple LED. How, then, should one go about getting a purple blade color?
P.S. The purple I'm looking for is darker (fuller?) than Mace's. I want Revan's lightsaber.
-
Right now the only ways to get a decent purple is with a High Powered white LED and a lee filter.
Namely a K2, Lux V, Or Seoul P4 Z-power White (Seoul Z-Power producing the best results so far).
-
DT, are you saying my RGB Mace is not a decent purple??? ;)
I got a really nice purple using a RGB rebel LED, by powering the Red and Blue together at the same time from the MR FX Sound Board. Take a look.
Grayven
-
:o :o
wow man I must say this is way cool!! ;)
-
Although it hasn't been released yet, let's not forget the very impressive purple Hyperblade. It's probably the most expensive purple option, but from the looks of it so far - it's worth every penny.
-
DT, are you saying my RGB Mace is not a decent purple??? ;)
I got a really nice purple using a RGB rebel LED, by powering the Red and Blue together at the same time from the MR FX Sound Board. Take a look.
Grayven
WOW! That is B-E-A-U-tiful!
Is there a tutorial thread somewhere where I can be taught how to do that?
-
It's not much different then a standard Ultra conversion. Instead of connecting a single LED on a LED star, I connected Two of the three LED's that cam on a single LED Star. Powering them at the same time. I used the Luxeon Rebel Star - Red/Green/Blue Tri-Emitter found here:
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=5538&link_str=1430&partno=7007-RGB-01-3
Every thing up to using this LED is in the instructional CD you get when you order a conversion from Ultra.
I'm going to use this purple setup in a Mara Jade that I working on as well.
Grayven
-
;D
I think that I'll be up dating my mace as well with this grayven!!Thanks my friend!! ;D
-
Never been a fan of the Mace just beacuse of the color. But with this RGB in one, I have to say I need one of those now! That looks great.
-
Question #4:
What's the best way to get my hands on an Obi-Wan TPM/AOTC lightsaber?
a. bore out and convert an MR CE/LE prop hilt
b. find a Larbel
c. ask TCSS to custom design one
d. wait for Hasbro to make it
-
Question #4:
What's the best way to get my hands on an Obi-Wan TPM/AOTC lightsaber?
a. bore out and convert an MR CE/LE prop hilt
Ouch. I wouldn't. They're collector's items and could be tricky.
b. find a Larbel
Some are around. Weight Loss for your budget and wallet! (http://cgi.ebay.com/HK-Larbel-Stainless-Steel-O-and-Q-Lightsaber-Prop-Set_W0QQitemZ150231115214QQihZ005QQcategoryZ37890QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
c. ask TCSS to custom design one
Interesting Concept. Could even try to make one from TCSS components and searching around for other pieces.
d. wait for Hasbro to make it
They may, but it could be a while.
Master Yoda put an anouncement up that there maybe more made by him.....
So, there could be some ways of getting your hands on it. It just may take some time.
-
Question #4:
b. find a Larbel
Some are around. Weight Loss for your budget and wallet! (http://cgi.ebay.com/HK-Larbel-Stainless-Steel-O-and-Q-Lightsaber-Prop-Set_W0QQitemZ150231115214QQihZ005QQcategoryZ37890QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
c. ask TCSS to custom design one
Interesting Concept. Could even try to make one from TCSS components and searching around for other pieces.
Ouch...that is R-E-A-L-L-Y expensive. :o
I think I'll stick with option C (although I was really tempted to bore out a prop hilt). Has TCSS done this type of custom work before? Does anyone know?
-
Question #4:
What's the best way to get my hands on an Obi-Wan TPM/AOTC lightsaber?
a. bore out and convert an MR CE/LE prop hilt
b. find a Larbel
c. ask TCSS to custom design one
d. wait for Hasbro to make it
a) There's no MR CE version of the Obi-Wan TPM/AOTC hilt. MR's TPM hilt is an Elite Edition (EE) and their AOTC is an LE. I don't think these can be bored out - as they're both solid, display pieces. But even if you could, these are high end props that are better left as is.
b) You could convert a Larbel - or a Parks. But unless you want a soundless saber, it's going to be a substantial project. You'll definitely need lots of machining to install a sound board and have an LED set up. Plus there's the question of where to place the switches, charge port, and the sound vents - if applicable. This hilt does have a tricky pommel to work with as well.
c) I'm not too familiar with the items and parts TCSS sells, however, it's something you can look into. This would probably, however, be as much a project, if not more, as the Parks/Larbel scenario.
d) Hasbro will probably not release this saber this year. But this is one of the most sought after FXs, so hopefully they'll release it relatively soon.
Don't forget that Yoda makes his own Obi-Wan TPM/AOTC sabers from time to time - with sound too.
-
I've figured out a way to make it from TCSS parts, but that leaves me with two more questions:
Question #5:
What is the diameter of the "naked" Joe Jedi saber?
Question #6:
What is the inner diameter of the TCSS tubing? (I'd need to carve out a section of 4" tubing)
and finally, the question I've been dying to ask...
Question #7:
Who's this mysterious "Yoda" that makes his own Obi-Wan TPM sabers? And how can I get in touch with him?
-
Question #7:
Who's this mysterious "Yoda" that makes his own Obi-Wan TPM sabers? And how can I get in touch with him?
Yoda is the Administrator of the Fx-sabers site. He's also an awesome saber smith. 8)
Just click the name Yoda anywhere you see it on the forum and send him a PM.
-
Ohhh...I saw him sell one on eBay for $500+ and it was a beauty! :-*
I still think I'd like to *try* and make one myself (if it's a flop, I can always scrap it and sell it for parts;)), so is there anyone who can help me by answering Questions 5 & 6? Anyone who's built an MHS saber, or who owns a Joe Jedi will do...
-
I've merged this thread with the "Every Type of Question Thread".
Jasher Kain, you can learn more of how The FX-Sabers Site works here: ;)
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=10747.0
-
Yes, yes...I know how forums work. That's also why I started a new thread. ;D
New threads get faster replies than old ones. ;)
I scratch Questions 5 & 6. I'll just PM Katarn (I saw his Joe Jedi mod tutorial).
Thanks, Governor, and to all the other great people who've been so helpful thus far!
P.S. If I wanted to do a poll so I could decide on a saber prototype, where would I post that?
-
In Here! (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=10.0) ;D
Just click NEW POLL on the right hand of the screen under who is viewing the board at that time. ;)
-
Thank you, thank you!
This forum has been SUPER helpful!
-
This may be an odd question and I couldnt find anything on the forums so I will ask it here. Where did the color sun riders destiny come from on ultra sabers ? i came accross a character on wookieepedia http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Nomi_Sunrider could this be the inspiration of it or its origin?
-
*Strolls in with a mai-thai in hand, wearing a Hawaiian shirt (see these buttons? REAL COCONUT BABY!)*
This may be an odd question and I couldnt find anything on the forums so I will ask it here. Where did the color sun riders destiny come from on ultra sabers ? i came accross a character on wookieepedia http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Nomi_Sunrider could this be the inspiration of it or its origin?
The answer as I see it is.... YES.
**Sips mai-thai, walks away humming Don Ho's "Tiny Bubbles"**
-
Ok, I got a question for ya guys ;D
What does one need to keep her lightsaber nice and spiffy clean - blade as well?
It's not about lightsabers specifically, but I need to know ;)
LS
-
What I do is use a sportscar rag when it gets dirty. I've found that the MR cloths actually take off some paint. Micro cleaning rags are OK, but if a minuscule piece of dirt is lodged in it, it could scratch. (I have a BEAUTIFUL scratch in my HDTV because of this ::)) If you have a dusty dorm, wie them down often, as much as needed. Mace's are bad as the electroplating comes off easily. The blade, I just wipe down. As for scratches, I don't worry about them. If you use it for dueling, it'll get worn. If you use it for display, don't use it! :D
-
:P
I was wondering if hasbro will have a booth at dragon-con??EFX as well?? ;D
-
I can almost say yes. I mean, from what I've heard, it's one of the bigger conventions, it's later season and it's on the East Coast.
-
Ah,Maybe,and Maybe not.D*C is more costumes,autograph,and gaming event.Jeremy Bulloch(OT Boba Fett) is also coming to D*C
-
Ah,Maybe,and Maybe not.D*C is more costumes,autograph,and gaming event.Jeremy Bulloch(OT Boba Fett) is also coming to D*C
Gotta wear a costume? NO WAY! SACRE BLEU! :o
-
What I do is use a sportscar rag when it gets dirty. I've found that the MR cloths actually take off some paint. Micro cleaning rags are OK, but if a minuscule piece of dirt is lodged in it, it could scratch. (I have a BEAUTIFUL scratch in my HDTV because of this ::)) If you have a dusty dorm, wie them down often, as much as needed. Mace's are bad as the electroplating comes off easily. The blade, I just wipe down. As for scratches, I don't worry about them. If you use it for dueling, it'll get worn. If you use it for display, don't use it! :D
hurm... Thanks Tark. I bought it (well, ok, I got the $$, just waiting for my greendot card to finish activating. Once that's done... Do-Clo is getting paid! :)) to display as well as play with ;) But I wanna keep it as prestine as possible. sportscar rag... hmm... I guess that means a trip to Kragens lol I'll go buy some MAAS and the rags in the next few days... Gonna be ready for my baby's arrival ;)
-
Ah,Maybe,and Maybe not.D*C is more costumes,autograph,and gaming event.Jeremy Bulloch(OT Boba Fett) is also coming to D*C
Gotta wear a costume? NO WAY! SACRE BLEU! :o
You don't have to,BUT that's what kind of convention it is. You've got a nice looking Jedi costume though.Whacha talkin' about Tark ;)
-
Remember, if you can and you are polishing it, use one rag for polish, let polish cool and wipe the excess polish of with the same cloth. Use a "non-polishing" cloth and buff it. You'll get a nice shine. (Keep this rag as the buffer rag)
I never use polish, but I keep the buff rag for my sabers only.
Ya, I'll have a costume or too. Just hope I get cleared from work. I should.
-
I use a chamois cloth. Nice for polish on Cars,and all types of swords Jedi,and non-Jedi ;)
-
Thanks Leia :)
-
You're welcome.I've got alot of Sabers,and swords.Chamois is a bit expensive,but sometimes you get what you pay for. Make sure it says for polish
There's different types
-
Again, thank you guys :)
-
I have a shirt that is fake Chami. Talk about comfortable. It looks like a Steven Seagal shirt! :D
-
I use Nevr-Dull once a month on my aluminum sabers. It's a cotton batting soaked in polish. Then all you need is one cloth for wiping and buffing.
-
:D :D
I'll be wearing my new costume leia.People will take notice when I walk in the doors lol :D :D
-
People notice me too, but it's more of that "Foul Stench"! :D
OK, now more joking on this thread. Let's keep it back on track and serious questions and answers. If you gotta laugh and post, head to "The Anything Topic". Thanks, folks!
-
Hey everyone
I know its late in the game but if I wanted to pick up A MR saber does anyone know where on line....I know selections will be limited but any help would be appreciated
Marcus
-
Brians Toys still has some stuff
http://www.brianstoys.com/store/category.aspx?categoryID=2560 (http://www.brianstoys.com/store/category.aspx?categoryID=2560)
I'm sure theres more...and then of course theres always el 'Bay ;)
I'll do a bit more browsing for you :)
-MM
-
Hey everyone
I know its late in the game but if I wanted to pick up A MR saber does anyone know where on line....I know selections will be limited but any help would be appreciated
Marcus
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/redfordfilms/Movie%20Collectables/Star%20Wars/FX%20Lightsabers/?sck=56344879 (http://stores.channeladvisor.com/redfordfilms/Movie%20Collectables/Star%20Wars/FX%20Lightsabers/?sck=56344879)
Also have you checked a local Toy'R'Us? I know mine has Vader ANH, Luke ANH, and Yoda.
-
Brians Toys still has some stuff
http://www.brianstoys.com/store/category.aspx?categoryID=2560 (http://www.brianstoys.com/store/category.aspx?categoryID=2560)
I'm sure theres more...and then of course theres always el 'Bay ;)
I'll do a bit more browsing for you :)
-MM
-
Thank you everyone any help is appreciated....the search goes on. Cannot wait for the hasbro line to come out !
Marcus
Any suggestions which vertical mounts are proving to be the best ?
-
I've also seen some at sharper image. I just picked up a Yoda for $85 as everything is on clearance. They are going out of business so they have some good deals..
-
That's great thank you !
Marcus
-
Hey Everyone...Marcus the newbie here....let me ask you is it best to display the full size sabers horizontally or vertically ? I would think horizontally would cause the blade to bend....but what do I know ..HAHAHA
thank you in advance !
Marcus
-
Hey Marcus
First next time just modify your post to add new content instead of double posting. We try hard around here to not double post. ;)
As far as orientation goes. I myself like to display Vertical, Like you mentioned it helps keep the blade straight. You can do horizontal with the right setup. What you would need are some blade supports. If I did this I would have two supports for the hilt and two for the blade.
Grayven
-
Grayven is absolutely correct.
Vertical is ideal for saving space on your walls.
If you prefer horizontal, and don't have a lot of cash handy, Stock MR stands can be used.
I use two stands when using the MR stands. One for the hilt with 1 large and 1 small support (diameter of the cutout cradle), and one stand with the blade with two small supports.
The Trade Federation Store here also sells vertical and horizontal display stands and blade supports for your sabers, and they are AWESOME!
-
Thank you for the advice I truly appreciate it. I will modify my post next time...please bare with me as I am still learning the site and its characteristics.
I must say this is a great site and the members fantastic with advice.....
If you were going to get some vertical stands which ones are the best
thank you all !
Marcus
-
I have two questions, but first I want to say that I searched the ultra sabers site and I couldnt find my answers even after trying varius words and I found nothing. Now on to my questions. I got my converted sabers in and I didnt get the color discs, I looked very thoroughly. Is there a place or website anyone can recommend that may be able sell them to me. Second question is where is the faq on replacing the blade tips? One Flew off while I was dueling,I want to make sure I put the blade back on correctly.
-
Hmm, well if you didn't receive the discs, and you ordered adegan silver... Wouldn't you think that an email to Ultrasabers would be in order? ;)
Normally, I would handle the fix on the blade tips, but I do not have the Weld-On #3 to do the repair at the moment...
-
I did not order silver, I ordered sun riders destiny on the mace ,green on luke blue on obi which I recieved and also someone told me an eboxy glue would work good to put the tips back on and it would be cheaper to fix the tips myself instead of shipping them all the way over to ultra sabers so that is why i am asking what is the best way to put them back on myself
-
Why would you get colored disks on a already colored LED? Colored disks come with the white LED--- e.g. Adegan Silver.
As far as the tips go-- buy some weld on #3 from the hardware store, and re-glue the sucker back on. Epoxy will work, but it's messy and most of the time you have to mix it. Weld on is a high-strength, fast drying, clear, and water thin acrylic cement (easy on and non-messy).
-
AND Weld on #3 is DESIGNED for acrylics and polycarbonate unlike epoxy.
-
my mistake and where would i buy these color discs? i misunderstood about them my bad
-
Again, why would you want a colored disk for already colored LED?
Learn to use the search button-- this thread is for questions that can't be easily found. Is it really too much of a burden to read through a few threads?
There are 9 pages that answer just your above question....
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=search2
-
Hey everyone, brand new here. I searched around the forums (on fx-sabers.com as well as everywhere else I can think of), and couldn't find any help; Can anyone give some tips or instructions as far as how to disassemble a Mace Windu Force FX lightsaber?
I have a good portion taken apart, everything that I found that I could disassemble, But I can't figure out how to remove the electronic components and the blade itself without getting all wookie on it and tearing the thing apart.
I just want to be able to take it apart all the way and be left with the hilt.
I feel kind of dumb, so many people are asking about how to wire sound boards to power supplies and I can't even take the dumb think apart haha.
Any tips/suggestions/help??
-
Please use the Search Function next...
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=3574.0
Alot of these simple questions are answered with this or a little searching.
Next simple question will be removed. Thank you.
-
Please use the Search Function next...
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=3574.0
Alot of these simple questions are answered with this or a little searching.
Next simple question will be removed. Thank you.
Ok, my mistake. I thought this was titled 'The "Every Type of Question" Thread....'
As I stated, I tried searching, and had no luck. Probably did it wrong or used a poor search string, but like I said I'm new here, so a little slack would be nice.
Don't worry, I won't waste any more of your time.
Thanks :-\
-
Try this Darth Pablo:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=994 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=994)
-
It took me two minutes. And I have issues with the Search Engine.
I typed in Mace Disassembly into the Search Engine.
We've been allowing too much slack these days for simple questions. We're having too many New Members with less than 5 posts who ask simple questions like this, especially in approximately 3 months. Please do a little searching around. This message goes out to everyone who is not familiar with looking around the Forums. They are full of information.
No more comments as this is a Questions Asked / Questions Answered thread. Thank you.
Try this Darth Pablo:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=994 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=994)
That's in the link I provided Darth Pablo.
-
Please READ the TOPIC over again as it has been updated..... 8)
-
not an electrician, but here's a question:
is it safe to run a Lux III off a resistor meant for a K2 and vice versa?
using 4xAAA battery packs from TCSS.
I had a K2 green running off a 1ohm 5 watt resistor. i was swapping parts and stuck in a Lux III green with the 1ohm5watt resistor and it is much brighter than the K2. Is this safe? Should I put a 1ohm 2 watt resistor when using the lux III? The Lux III was running off an MR soundboard, but the K2 green is brighter running off the MR soundboard.
-
I wouldn't think it would be too much trouble. You would be just giveing the led more power (overdriving it) but, I havn't really messed with resistors. Are you using the same batt pack for the lux III as the K2?
-
You should be fine. the K2 optimal is 3.85v @ 1.5A
Lux III is 3.90v @ 1A
Therefore you are really only Overdriving the LED by 500mA or so.
-
Ok, another "scale" question.
I recently received an Obi-Wan TPM from Yoda and I just won a Qui-Gon Larbel on eBay. These two coupled with my own MHS saber has left me wondering whether or not I should go all "scale."
I have a Master's Luke ESB that I absolutely adore...but it feels kinda "fat" in my hands. How much wider is the Master's than an original Graflex? And would I be able to squeeze an UltraSabers blade into a Graflex hilt?
Finally, scale-wise, how do the Park's sabers compare to the original movie props?
I sense this will be an expensive endeavor, but I'm willing to sell my Masters and go for the slower, but more authentic route.
Any advice or help would be much appreciated.
-
The Luke ESB is Rather Fat.
The Graflex is 1.50" in diameter, and is 10.5" Long (THis will Vary Slightly depending on wheter it is ESB or ANH styled due to the D-ring mount)
The MR ESB FX is 1.625" In diameter (1 5/8") And is 11.5" Long (not accounting for D-ring Mount.)
Here are some comparison Pics. Please excuse the hilts, as I haven't wiped the graflex down since last handling it, and the ESB MR hilt is missing a few parts... :D
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi157.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft45%2FDarthMorbius1977%2FGraflex%2520IV%2FDSCN1159.jpg&hash=b87e44de08bf9594f0bfc5fcaea23ae863602266) (http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t45/DarthMorbius1977/Graflex%20IV/DSCN1159.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi157.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft45%2FDarthMorbius1977%2FGraflex%2520IV%2FDSCN1161.jpg&hash=98d5c6d0652b74dfe3dee4c9226f0848236f19dc) (http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t45/DarthMorbius1977/Graflex%20IV/DSCN1161.jpg)
As you can see there is a NOTICEABLE difference in size. ;)
-
Thanks for the pics. Yeah, I just picked up a Graflex and a Heiland on eBay, so I'm definitely going all scale. This is especially because doing so would cost me about the same to upgrade a Masters to an UltraSaber. Plus, if you customize the originals, your customization possibilities are endless (not to mention easier). Unfortunately, not so with the Masters.
-
Please Help!! My MR Luke Saber just stopped working today. I went to turn it on and I only got the lights but no sound. Then a few hours later after trying again this time nothing worked. I tried a couple of sets of new battery's but still nothing. I hardly ever use it and I take good care of it. Anyone have any thoughts as to what the fix or problem might be? Is there a way to fix this? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
-Matt
-
;D
some times your pins on your battery holder get out of line;so,make sure your pins are in line.Second how old and what kind of batterys are you using? :-\
-
Sorry, I have a MR Luke ESB Saber
Thanks!!
Matt
-
How do I check to see if my Pins are in line? I did try to twist the battery pack left and right (each time turning on) and noting happened. I also tried to install 2 new sets of Duracells and no go. I did have (when it stopped working) mixed batterys inside (which I just learned from this forum that it's not a good idea to mix :( could that be my reason? As I stated before when I went to turn it on the first time I just got the lights with no sound then a few hours later after trying again now I get no sound or lights. I hope it's something simple like the pins.
-
There is the possibility that the battery contacts might be corroded...
OR
There is also the possibility that the board may have gone out.
-
what do you guys suggest...I emailed MR and they told me they no longer service them. Are there people online who offer service or should I just sell on ebay and buy a new one?
-
Hi everyone!
I'm just getting into the hobby and looking to try out a few simple conversions at home.
I was thinking about picking up a couple of initiates and an apprentice at ultrasabers. Does anyone know what LED they install in them? and would you reccomend these sabers?
- Matt (the new guy)
-
what do you guys suggest...I emailed MR and they told me they no longer service them. Are there people online who offer service or should I just sell on ebay and buy a new one?
MR CANNOT service them anymore...
They are no longer licensed to do Lucasfilm products...
Normally, I would step up to the plate and give it a shot, but I am so far backlogged right now that I am no longer taking new orders for service, repair or custom builds until my bench is cleared and I take a break.
-
OK, Folks........We should be looking throughout the Forums for the answers to these questions. New or not new, please read throughout the Forum to find what you are looking for. This Site has grown in the last year and know doubt the majority of new Members have been informed of our Site. Along with reading the Terms of agreement (I know you've seen these words as it is the only way you can become a Member here) please also refer to this Topic as it will not only save your skin, but give you guidance for this Site...... http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=10747.0
Hi everyone!
I'm just getting into the hobby and looking to try out a few simple conversions at home.
I was thinking about picking up a couple of initiates and an apprentice at ultrasabers. Does anyone know what LED they install in them? and would you reccomend these sabers?
- Matt (the new guy)
There are sticky posts about this in the ULTRASABERS boards... 8) That's a GREAT Board to learn about Sabers on this Site.
-
what do you guys suggest...I emailed MR and they told me they no longer service them. Are there people online who offer service or should I just sell on ebay and buy a new one?
I'd honestly recommend sending it to Ultra for a blade replacement and an LED upgrade (you'll want to do that anyways) and at the same time ask them if they see anything wrong in the wiring. They'll have to take it apart to rewire the LED anyways, so I'm sure they could provide the extra service (they have to get it to light up, don't they? ;D).
That's my 2 cents.
-
What is the reason that the thick walled 3/4 " blades are getting less common? 1" blades are the more abundant sizes. This lack of 3/4 blade is going to cause trouble with smaller blade and blade holder. I bought a conversion kit about a year ago & it came with 3/4 holder. So are we going to heed to purchase a new blade kit? Or are these blade still available?
-
TCSS still sells (and always has sold) thin walled 3/4" OD PolyC blades
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-34-OD--P228.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-34-OD--P228.aspx)
As for a thickwalled 3/4" blade, well, in my estimation that wouldn't let in very much light and would likely look awful. I like being proven wrong though ;)
-MM
-
When I recieved my conversion kit for diy a 3/4 " dueling blade w/ thicker walls and the corban (Ultra) film / fiber optic was preinstalled was ordered from Ultra Sabers. Since the 1" has taken the place of 3/4, does any modifiying or what maods need to be done order a new blade holder.
-
I don't think I understand here:
Are you KEEPING a 3/4" blade, but wanting to usie it in a 1" bladedholder? If this is the case, TCSS sells reducer spacers that you can use. It's a 1" OD sleeve with a 3/4" ID that a 3/4" blade slides into.
-
I have the blde holder that come in the DIY Anakin ROTS kit for dueling close to a year ago. Is the inner diam. of the holder 1" ? then I may be confusing the two inner3/4 OD 1" ? If so I stand corrected
-
The ID of the Anakin ALUMINUM holder is 1" The Stock is actually a little under 1" (0.984") to be specific.
If you have the Aluminum holder from TCSS, then if you want to use a 3/4" blade in it, you need the reducer.
-
Ok, so the holder is just shy of 1" Then this could explain why I need yo sand down the blade just a bit. Some of the original blade holder ( plastic holder for factory blade?) I assume the blade that came with it is 1" outter ? Correct? The blade that comes with the kit is a 1"od 1/16 wall ? I'm I on the same page? Sorry about dragging this out, but , when I order a new blade I want it to be correct size.
-
What DT said there is that the original. stock bladeholder is just shy of 1 inch....the metal/aluminum holder, if you have it, will hold a 1 inch blade.
I'm not sure why you think it requires a 3/4" blade....Ultra has never offered 3/4" blades in the past, so if you have an Ultrasabers conversion kit, it should take a 1" blade.
-
In that case, you need to Order an ULTRAFX blade, and Specify that it is for an Anakin. That way you don't need to do any sanding.
-
When I sand the blade about 4-5" from the bottom ( the hilt end) just enough to hold a firm to tight grip. One nite my brother & my daughter.were swinging a moderate hit, time after time. I forgotten the blde retention screw. Now all is well in the World Of Bull 8)dog
-
I was just curious, how long or if it may be even in the works, of Ultrasabers developing a power up and power down LED emiter for the Ultrsaber kits, customs, conversions, replacements, etc. ? Please respond in regards to giving me a ballpark idea if this type of idea is even on the horizon for development. Thank you.
Sincerely,
kraven :)
-
I really don't want to start a new thread with this question, so here it is:
What red LED bin # will be closest to pink? A fuchsia or magenta will work.
If there is none, I guess I'm going white with colored disks... :P
-
I really don't want to start a new thread with this question, so here it is:
What red LED bin # will be closest to pink? A fuchsia or magenta will work.
If there is none, I guess I'm going white with colored disks... :P
white with the color disc....it's acutully a really nice pink...I gave a purple Mini Lord to my girlfriend with a pink blade she loves it......
-
Thanks Master Mundi,
She asked for pink, and that's kinda what I figured but decided to ask just in case. I'm still debating whether or not to just install a RebelStar RGB and a switch so that she can choose between all the colors of the rainbow. We all know how fickle women can sometimes be. ;D
-
can someone please supply me with a link for a MR force fx conversion luke rotj i need to know how to gut one correctly and then fit one with a cf board and luxeon
thanks any help would be greatfully appreciated
ps i tried the one on the ultrasaber sit but the link doesnt work
thnx
-
I'd email Ultra about that. Just ask them to re-establish the link. I had the same problem with my Maul, sent an e-mail, and they had the link back up in a few days.
-
This isn't a double-post because I'm asking a question. ;D
What is the length of the new MR Vader ANH electronics core (the one that uses 3 AA), from top to speaker? Please list measurement in centimeters. Thank you!
-
I'd email Ultra about that. Just ask them to re-establish the link. I had the same problem with my Maul, sent an e-mail, and they had the link back up in a few days.
hi thanks for that but i cant seem to find a contact address on their site??
-
I'd email Ultra about that. Just ask them to re-establish the link. I had the same problem with my Maul, sent an e-mail, and they had the link back up in a few days.
hi thanks for that but i cant seem to find a contact address on their site??
Is this what you're looking for?
http://www.ultrasabers.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=21
Ultrasabers is currently out of stock on the MR Luke ROTJ Conversion kits.
-
No, he's looking for the link that shows the step-by-step instructions for a Luxeon conversion.
-
Well, here's a tutorial that was done by Lord Maul at TCSS (Aluke123 here):
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2479&page=5 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2479&page=5)
-
that there be a good tutorial. m'hm
-
I've been noticing a LOT of compliments about the FX Anakin ROTS. How close to scale is it? I'd be interested if it's almost 1:1 with a Graflex. Anyone know?
-
I've been noticing a LOT of compliments about the FX Anakin ROTS. How close to scale is it? I'd be interested if it's almost 1:1 with a Graflex. Anyone know?
I had one of these, and I'd have to say it's a larger in diameter than a real Graflex. I thought it was too big, actually, when compared to my MHS/sinktube stuff, but that's just me.
-
I have a question. :)
I'm going to FINALLY get myself a good camera today, and it got me thinking. If I want to take a picture of my lightsabers
what is the best way to keep the blade from overexposing? (like if you wanted to relay actual brightness or do a comparison test) I'm not up to speed yet on modes, ISO, and shutter speeds. Obviously many people post pics here, I'm just curious what general rules work best. ;)
EDIT: I've searched TCSS also, but found nothing except the "tutorial of how to take a lightsaber picture". It has some good tips, but not really alot on how to lessen overexposure I'm afraid.
-
Typically, you can use the "exposure compensation" feature on most digital cameras to help keep the blades from over-exposing. This is basically like the shutter speed setting on a normal camera. SOme digital cameras combine this with their ISO features, and others do not.
-
I'll keep that in mind. I know I'll end up having to tinker with it anyway, but at least now I have an idea of where to start.
Thanks for the help. :)
-
i have a question i just got my m2 park saber most of you probably already ( i didnt) that park sabers have no sound does any one know of a site where i could send it in so they can inplace a sound module i just want it to humm ...any addvice will be gladly appreciated
-
Darth Technous who runs Do Clo custom sabers is the guy to talk to about Parks conversions ;)
-
The M2 is one of my favorite parks saber, but i was under the impression that it couldn't be converted because of a lack of actual space in the hilt. If i am looking at the pictures correctly, I'd say the top fourth of it is unusable, unless the EL there could be removed and then be used as space. But then that takes away alot of the personality of the M2.
-
well i talked to the guy who runs Doclocustum sabers and he says that a master replica yoda sound borad might fit in the m2 ...but yea it realy doesnt have much space
-
When I take pics of my sabers without the flash I use the little flower looking icon thing. But what annoys me about the no flash on most cameras is you have to be absolutly still or the pic will look funny.
and with my bros camera it wont take a pic at all unless its absolutly steady. Sorry but I dont have tht steady of a hand.
-
well i talked to the guy who runs Doclocustum sabers and he says that a master replica yoda sound borad might fit in the m2 ...but yea it realy doesnt have much space
Don is converting my Qui-Gon that was originally a parks saber into an LED saber using a Yoda Sound board, but I would imagine theres more space in the Qui-gon than the M2.
-
When I take pics of my sabers without the flash I use the little flower looking icon thing. But what annoys me about the no flash on most cameras is you have to be absolutely still or the pic will look funny.
and with my bros camera it wont take a pic at all unless its absolutely steady. Sorry but I don't have that steady of a hand.
That's why you use a tripod my friend! ;) Macro mode slows down the shutter speed, and allows for more exposure of the image, to attain a high detail photo. Using a tripod is about the only EFFECTIVE way of taking good high-quality close ups
-
I know I know, maybe I can talk my brother into getting one.
-
Depending on your camera type, you can get them at Wal-Mart for CHEAP...
I bought one for $7.00 on clearance that was made FOR my camera. It's just an 8" telescopic tripod, but it works well for saber pics.
-
Thanks DT!
-
Give your brother one as a present.
Maybe next time he'll give you a lightsaber.
-
Yeah if only I was that luckey.
Iam luckey enought he lets me drink his boose.
-
Does anyone know where I can find a Luxeon 1W resistor chart? I have search for 2 days now and cannot find one Luxeon Star 1W's. I have also heard they are called 1W's.
Thanks
JediKnightBJ
-
Calculating an LED resistor value
LED resistor circuit
An LED must have a resistor connected in series to limit the current through the LED, otherwise it will burn out almost instantly.
The resistor value, R is given by:
R = (VS - VL) / I
VS = supply voltage
VL = LED voltage (usually 2V, but 4V for blue and white LEDs)
I = LED current (e.g. 20mA), this must be less than the maximum permitted
If the calculated value is not available choose the nearest standard resistor value which is greater, so that the current will be a little less than you chose. In fact you may wish to choose a greater resistor value to reduce the current (to increase battery life for example) but this will make the LED less bright.
For example
If the supply voltage VS = 9V, and you have a red LED (VL = 2V), requiring a current I = 20mA = 0.020A,
R = (9V - 2V) / 0.02A = 350ohm, so choose 390ohm (the nearest standard value which is greater).
Ohm's Law
Next Page: Power and Energy
Also See: Voltage and Current | Resistance | Resistors
To make a current flow through a resistance there must be a voltage across that resistance. Ohm's Law shows the relationship between the voltage (V), current (I) and resistance (R). It can be written in three ways:
V = I × R
or
I = V / R
or
R = V / I
where:
V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in amps (A)
R = resistance in ohms (ohm) or: V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in milliamps (mA)
R = resistance in kilohms (kohm)
For most electronic circuits the amp is too large and the ohm is too small, so we often measure current in milliamps (mA) and resistance in kilohms (kohm). 1 mA = 0.001 A and 1 kohm = 1000 ohm.
The Ohm's Law equations work if you use V, A and ohm, or if you use V, mA and kohm. You must not mix these sets of units in the equations so you may need to convert between mA and A or kohm and ohm.
The VIR triangle
V
I R
Ohm's Law
triangle
You can use the VIR triangle to help you remember the three versions of Ohm's Law.
Write down V, I and R in a triangle like the one in the yellow box on the right.
* To calculate voltage, V: put your finger over V,
this leaves you with I R, so the equation is V = I × R
* To calculate current, I: put your finger over I,
this leaves you with V over R, so the equation is I = V/R
* To calculate resistance, R: put your finger over R,
this leaves you with V over I, so the equation is R = V/I
Ohm's Law Calculations
Use this method to guide you through calculations:
V
I R
1. Write down the Values, converting units if necessary.
2. Select the Equation you need (use the VIR triangle).
3. Put the Numbers into the equation and calculate the answer.
It should be Very Easy Now!
* 3 V is applied across a 6 ohm resistor, what is the current?
o Values: V = 3 V, I = ?, R = 6 ohm
o Equation: I = V/R
o Numbers: Current, I = 3/6 = 0.5 A
* A lamp connected to a 6 V battery passes a current of 60 mA, what is the lamp's resistance?
o Values: V = 6 V, I = 60 mA, R = ?
o Equation: R = V/I
o Numbers: Resistance, R = 6/60 = 0.1 kohm = 100 ohm
(using mA for current means the calculation gives the resistance in kohm)
* A 1.2 kohm resistor passes a current of 0.2 A, what is the voltage across it?
o Values: V = ?, I = 0.2 A, R = 1.2 kohm = 1200 ohm
(1.2 kohm is converted to 1200 ohm because A and kohm must not be used together)
o Equation: V = I × R
o Numbers: V = 0.2 × 1200 = 240 V
-
OK. I think I get it, but where do the Watts come into play?
-
Volts x Amps = Watts
-
I'm coming up with some very crazy numbers.
I'm using 1W Luxeon Stars. Blue, green, and red.
Blue- 3.42Vf, 6v supply, needs 350ma. I can't figure out what Ohm/Watt resistor to use.
Green-3.42Vf, 4.5v supply, needs 350ma. Same probelm
Reds-2.95Vf, 3v supply, needs 500ma. I think I don't need a resistor, but I'm not sure.
All power is supplied using standard AA alkaline batteries.
-
Ok, so I've figured up the Resistors I need.
Green or Blue-6v supply, 3.42Vf @ 350ma= 8.2 Ohm 1.5W resistor
Green or bluye-4.5v supply, 3.42Vf @ 350ma= 3.3 Ohm .5W resistor
Red-3v Supply, 2.95Vf @ 385ma= No resistor, I know, brightest at first, then slowly dims with batteries, but I'm just going for cheap here not efficient.
Does anyone know where I can buy those resistors, if I am wrong on my cacluations, please tell me and someone, please tell me where I can buy these specific resistors.
-
How about a buckpuck? ;)
Your batteries will be happier, and you will too. ;)
Sure they cost more than a resistor, but they far outperform them.
I hope you didn't take my lack of answering as a bad thing. I was showing you how to figure the values, and allowing you to do so on your own. ;) That's how I learned to do it ;)
http://www.luxeonstar.com/low-voltage-drivers-350ma-drivers-c-41_18_4.php
http://www.luxeonstar.com/low-voltage-drivers-700ma-drivers-c-41_18_5.php
http://www.luxeonstar.com/low-voltage-drivers-1000ma-drivers-c-41_18_2.php
-
Yeah resistors are crap and are IMO a bandage.
-
Its a cost issue. $10 each vs $.25 to $.50 each. It makes a huge difference.
Let me ask one last time. Can someone check my math and make sure I'm right on the resistors? If anyone knows where i can buy them, that would help too.
-
One thing... Buckpucks save batteries, produce less heat, and make your LED's stay bright over the duration of the battery life.
They pay for themselves in the long run. ;)
-
The micropucks that are designed for the for 350ma are rated at a max of 3v's.
I'm running 6v and 4.5v battery packs.
I'm not trying to argue, just trying to get my head to wrap around this little problem.
-
The micropucks that are designed for the for 350ma are rated at a max of 3v's.
I'm running 6v and 4.5v battery packs.
I'm not trying to argue, just trying to get my head to wrap around this little problem.
The point of using the micropuck is that you only need to use 3volts. Anything more is wasted. There are ways to wire them to use more than 3 volts.
However, if you need to use resistors for cost issues, I double checked your math, and came up with the same numbers you had posted over at TCSS. I have no idea where exactly to get resistors of those values, but one place that comes to mind is www.mouser.com. (http://www.mouser.com/) You may just need to go with the closest size over the numbers you got.
-
Thanks Qui-Gon. I found a place that had the exact resistors. Its a company that makes them here in the US. They were able to get them to me for less the $.10 a piece. I appreciate you checking my math.
Thanks again for all your help Qui-Gon. In both PVC and in resistor calculations.
-
Hey, DT and Qui-Gon...
Is there any way you could move this mini-tutorial to a new thread and sticky it? I personally think it's wonderfully helpful.
-
Ok sorry if this question has been asked before but here it goes. I made my own custom blade handels right now they are props but I would like to make em light up. i dont need sound or anything. but could i mail my handels in to Ultra sabers and have them put in the guts or should i send them pics and maybe have them make custom create them for me? What would be the best way to do this?
-
Here's a good place to start http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Ownbr-Luxeon-III-Electronics-Kit-P6.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Ownbr-Luxeon-III-Electronics-Kit-P6.aspx).
You will also need a bladeholder to go along with the kit. What are the dimensions of your hilts?
Something you should consider if you are not going to be using a soundboard or LED driver is a buckpuck.
It keeps the LED's brightness consistent instead of having the LED dim as the batteries die.
-
Are the Ultra board still being made and if so how much, If it is availble about how much do they cost. and what sounds some from them??
-
Are the Ultra board still being made and if so how much, If it is availble about how much do they cost. and what sounds some from them??
We actually just received a video from Ultra a few days ago introducing the Ultra Sound version 2.0 board. It hasn't been released yet, but will be soon. You can watch the video, and read all the comments about it, here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13292.0
The price hasn't been determined yet.
-
Thanks for handling that Obi-Wan! 8) The Force is strong with you! Join ME, and together we can destroy the sith!
-
I searched the forums using the following phrases liberator, liberator battery packs, and got nothing so I am posting my question here. I damaged my battery pack in my liberator stunt saber where can I get another one? Second will your site ever be selling battery packs on this site? i cant seem to find them in my area i even looked for them on ebay I dont know how I broke the battery pack honestly. I was just dueling with it then when I went to take out the batteries the top part where the gold part is came off. I am working on glueing it back on still I would like to buy a few more just to be safe
-
Email Ultra....
-
Thanks for handling that Obi-Wan! 8) The Force is strong with you! Join ME, and together we can destroy the sith!
No problem, Darth Tyranus. ;)
I'll consider your offer - but I can tell you now: It doesn't look good, my friend. ;D
-
Does anyone have any information on the Vader ESB versus the Vader 30th Anniversary ANH sabers? Besides the design of the hilt, does one perform any better than the other? Are they both basically the same? Thanks.
-
The activator box is in different locations and the ANH has the more acurate Graflex style activator with the clamp thingy off to the side.
The ANH version is considerbly heavier and slightly more realistic, (IMO). The ESB however has faux wires in the top slits near the emitter.
I do find that the ESB fits better in the hand, is MUCH easier to spin and less likely to slip out of your hand.
The ANH version is a very nice display piece though.
-
The activator box is in different locations and the ANH has the more acurate Graflex style activator with the clamp thingy off to the side.
The ANH version is considerbly heavier and slightly more realistic, (IMO). The ESB however has faux wires in the top slits near the emitter.
I do find that the ESB fits better in the hand, is MUCH easier to spin and less likely to slip out of your hand.
The ANH version is a very nice display piece though.
Have you ever compared either in size to a Heiland 3 cell? I'm curious to know how accurate they are size-wise.
I've only owned the 2003 MR ANH Vader, so I'm still left wondering what the ESB or the new ANH are like.
-
Darth, the new ANH is that much heavier than the ESB? I thought the two were on par and it was just the old ANH that was a beast. And do you find either one (between ESB/new ANH) has a clear advantage in LED color tone or brightness?
I've been thinking I'll pick up copies of the 2007 Vader and Luke ANH sabers before these things disappear forever, but I want to make sure I'm not getting a shoddier version of the Vader one. The Luke for me is a no-brainer, since it's the only version of his that takes 3 AA instead of 6.
-
Yes, the weight difference is noticeable, funny you should bring that up, because just this morning I was wielding both of them. Side by Side, the new ANH and ESB, I find no color difference in the LED. My old ANH was taken apart a few days to start a new project so unfortunately, I can not compare it, though I vaguely rememeber it being slightly dimmer, (that could be because of the age of it though.
I don't have a Heiland, (yet), so I can't compare them, but I have to believe that the MR saber is considerbly fatter. I just can't see a flash lamp being that thick.
MR did quite well revamping the new ANH, they put the on/off on the activator box, (like luke, Obi-Wan, etc) and dropped it down to the 3 battery pack. Cosmetically, it really is that different from the 2003 version.
The ESB version though is so different in design that is really is an entirely different saber, sans the emiiter.
The grips are different, the clamp is different and the addition of the "wires" really set if apart.
They are both great sabers in there own rights, and different enough to warrant owning both.
-
The reason I question is because the electronics core for the 2003 Vader ANH fits perfectly in a Heiland Synchronar. I recently picked up 2 other Heiland 3 cells and am interested in doing another simple conversion (popping the electronics core into an empty flash canister). Guess I'll just have to pick up a 2007 Vader ANH and try it out.
-
What is the OD" of the Synchronar, I can measure the OD of the Vader sabers when I get home in the morning. Maybe it's thinner than my eyes perceive it be, but the vader sabers, (and Luke ANH for that matter), look bigger than the flash tubes they were modeled after.
-
1/16" shy of 1.5"
-
I'll check the vader sabers in the morning, work does not permit me to bring my sabers with me.
-
Mine does. ;D In fact, I've been encouraged to bring them...keep those juvenile delinquents in line. :D
-
There are times I wish I could, but it would most likely result in some career altering decisions.
-
Heiland synchronar is
1.495" OD
1.40" ID
The MR Vader ESB and ANH are just a TINY bit larger. The Vaders are the CLOSEST to scale than any other MR saber (Besides the Anakin ROTS and the Luke ANH). And yes, the MR Vader guts fit NICELY inside the Sycnronar or MPP flash handles.
-
Thanks, DT. ;)
-
Have you ever compared either in size to a Heiland 3 cell? I'm curious to know how accurate they are size-wise.
I've only owned the 2003 MR ANH Vader, so I'm still left wondering what the ESB or the new ANH are like.
I don't know if they really help but still here are pics courtesy of benlurkin. Note some pics are distorted due to one hilt being closer than the other.
(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs18.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs18.jpg)(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs17.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs17.jpg)(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs15.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs15.jpg)
(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs11.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs11.jpg)(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs08.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs08.jpg)(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs05.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs05.jpg)
(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs04.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs04.jpg)(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs03.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs03.jpg)(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs02.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs02.jpg)
(https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/th_Vesbvs01.jpg) (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/benlurkin/Vesbvs01.jpg)
-
Thanks, Red 5. That's awesome and helps out a lot.
(BTW, long time no see!)
-
Thanks, Red 5. That's awesome and helps out a lot.
(BTW, long time no see!)
Just got really busy all the sudden between work & life. I've missed this place. And now that I have a little time over the weekend, I hope to be able to finally do a review of a recently acquried item. 8) "I'll be back!"
To add to the topic: The ESB really does have a superb feeling to it. Now I can't compare it to the new ANH as I have the 2003 model, but I can tell you that you will be happy if you choose to buy either one of these sabers.
-
are parksaber any good i hear that theier El blades color suck BAD is that true can someone or any one who has bought/seen a parksaber face to face tell me
-
Parks has the most accurate hilts. However this is because they don't have soundboards and they use the 'slimmer but dimmer' el technology.
As far as brightness goes el is at the bottom of the scale, then MR's string of leds. Both of these blades are easily outshined by a 3watter or if you want to hold the power of the sun, a 5watter. 8)
Some have converted Parks el sabers to led and have also given them sound, but this cannot be done with all Park's sabers. When it is done it can be quite costly, but the effect is definitely worth it.
-
do you think the m2 could go through this conversion .(sound and led )
-
Do Clo has done that hilt I think.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9200.0
That's it. He made a new emitter and pommel for it.
-
Ouch...a new pommel and emitter. Maybe I should just cancel the order for my Dark Avenger and do a custom job from TCSS...
-
I'm pretty sure Don did a new pommel and emitter because the customer wanted one (probably because they were damaged).
-
How many batteries does the Dominix take? i know it takes AA alkaline batteries but how many does it take? I typed in dominix in the forum search and found no answers.
-
I would say 2 maybe four...
-
finally i my liberator did fine with my rechargeables but I forget what it ran at. Is it possible to run the dominix on recharegelables seeing how the liberator worked fine with rechargeables
-
Yes
-
I am having a custom saber built for me and can't quite decide on a color. Besides the Joe Jedi kit has anyone installed an RGB LED with a rotary switch on a saber? How does the brightness compare to a single LED? Would it be difficult for a sabersmith to do?
-
Talk to Lando about that, he has lots of experience with the Joe Jedi Kits.
I know that some people at TCSS have been woking with RBG LED's, and there is a video on youtube regarding this.
I'm not too up on the the whole RGB custom installs, as I deal mostly with sound boards and single Lux installations. I really do need to study up a bit.
-
I have a quick question on the Vader ANH fx saber. I had one at one time but I cant remember if the shroud was inline with the switch. The Vader ESB has a perfectly aligned shroud and switch, but for some reason I keep thinking that it was off a little on the ANH one. Reason being, im using a chromed emitter (thanks Tyranus!) and trying to make an Anakin AOTC saber.
-
I have a quick question on the Vader ANH fx saber. I had one at one time but I cant remember if the shroud was inline with the switch. The Vader ESB has a perfectly aligned shroud and switch, but for some reason I keep thinking that it was off a little on the ANH one. Reason being, im using a chromed emitter (thanks Tyranus!) and trying to make an Anakin AOTC saber.
You are correct, Sir. ;D
This pic is a comparison I just shot now. (Do not mind the date as it is slightly off. ::))
HOWEVER, the Saber on the left is the 2005 ESB and the Saber on the right is the 2007 ANH. I have the 2003 ANH also, but it is packed away. That hilt is a 6 'AA' and slightly longer. 8)
Hope this helps you, Senti Xamas. ;)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi33.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fd58%2F100100111%2FFX%2FPicsforFX.jpg&hash=7010ed3de0c8d1916fd30375ee1ef172f8da8669)
-
I am having a custom saber built for me and can't quite decide on a color. Besides the Joe Jedi kit has anyone installed an RGB LED with a rotary switch on a saber? How does the brightness compare to a single LED? Would it be difficult for a sabersmith to do?
I just got a RGB Luxeon rebel and I'm playing to go that route. The problem is where to fit all the parts and stuff. You can get the 3 basic colors and maybe the 3 combo colors, but anything else requires a few resisters.
The Brightness is also lower than a single Luxeon too, but it can be brighter with the bigger battery packs etc. The combo colors would be brighter than the single. I think all 3 LEDs together becomes sort of Red and combined brightness.
I'll let you know after I do some experiments with this.
-
I have a quick question on the Vader ANH fx saber. I had one at one time but I cant remember if the shroud was inline with the switch. The Vader ESB has a perfectly aligned shroud and switch, but for some reason I keep thinking that it was off a little on the ANH one. Reason being, im using a chromed emitter (thanks Tyranus!) and trying to make an Anakin AOTC saber.
You are correct, Sir. ;D
This pic is a comparison I just shot now. (Do not mind the date as it is slightly off. ::))
HOWEVER, the Saber on the left is the 2005 ESB and the Saber on the right is the 2007 ANH. I have the 2003 ANH also, but it is packed away. That hilt is a 6 'AA' and slightly longer. 8)
Hope this helps you, Senti Xamas. ;)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi33.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fd58%2F100100111%2FFX%2FPicsforFX.jpg&hash=7010ed3de0c8d1916fd30375ee1ef172f8da8669)
Thanks mr Solo. It helps me tremendously.
-
Help. I have a Seuol P4 and I have a heatsink. One from Ultrasabers, (thanks Tood). And it gets HOT!. So Hot I'm scared to put it into a PVC saber.
I have tried searching the forums for answers but can't figure it out if my heatsink is too small or what.
So what should I do?
Thanks
-
Make sure you're not overdriving the LED. If you are, it will slowly burn out.
Theres a current limit to every type of LED that you should follow.
-
Yes, MoonDragon is absolutely correct.
Check the PDF datasheet for the Seoul LED's You need to make sure of two things:
1. That you are not feeding the LED too much power Voltage wise.
2. That you are not feeding too much current to the LED.
How are you driving the LED?
Are you using Thermal paste between the LED and the heatsink?
Do you have a short somewhere in your wiring?
Are your Solder connections tight on the LED's solder tabs?
Please note that High powere, high output LED's DO produce some heat.
Is the LED INSIDE a hilt body yet? Is the Hilt getting hot? One thing to consider is that your saber's hilt will act as a further method of heatsinking the LED once it is in contact with the actual heatsink.
-
Hey everyone, quick question. I ordered a US 2.0 and two midgrade blades at the same time. Will they all come in together or will the blades come first and then the US 2.0 when it is available? I searched around but couln't find an answer. :'( Thanks!
-
I'm using a buckpuck to drive it. All my solder connections are good, just like I would on a normal Lux star. I double checked the wiring, and no shorts. Its just getting hot. I haven't put it into a hilt just yet because i'm worried about it melting the PVC i'm using in a hilt.
Here's the set up:
4xAA battery pack
Buckpuck 1000ma Driver
Normal switch
Seuol P4 Ubin, thermal tape between the LED and heatsink (heat transfer tape that helps the heat go away from the LED to the heatsink)
Lux Star optic and holder.
Am I just being too paranoid? Should I drive it with a smaller Buckpuck?
-
I'm using a buckpuck to drive it. All my solder connections are good, just like I would on a normal Lux star. I double checked the wiring, and no shorts. Its just getting hot. I haven't put it into a hilt just yet because i'm worried about it melting the PVC i'm using in a hilt.
Here's the set up:
4xAA battery pack
Buckpuck 1000ma Driver
Normal switch
Seuol P4 Ubin, thermal tape between the LED and heatsink (heat transfer tape that helps the heat go away from the LED to the heatsink)
Lux Star optic and holder.
Am I just being too paranoid? Should I drive it with a smaller Buckpuck?
1: What kind of batteries? Regular alkaline?
2: What kind of buckpuck? 1A buckpucks come either with or without a control circuit. Control circuit models are 6 wire, and non control circuit are 4 wire. This may be part of the issue. If you have a 6 wire buckpuck, and are not using the control wires for the switch, THAT can cause the extra heat.
3. How do you have your switch wired? PICS?
-
I'm using a buckpuck to drive it. All my solder connections are good, just like I would on a normal Lux star. I double checked the wiring, and no shorts. Its just getting hot. I haven't put it into a hilt just yet because i'm worried about it melting the PVC i'm using in a hilt.
Here's the set up:
4xAA battery pack
Buckpuck 1000ma Driver
Normal switch
Seuol P4 Ubin, thermal tape between the LED and heatsink (heat transfer tape that helps the heat go away from the LED to the heatsink)
Lux Star optic and holder.
Am I just being too paranoid? Should I drive it with a smaller Buckpuck?
1: What kind of batteries? Regular alkaline?
2: What kind of buckpuck? 1A buckpucks come either with or without a control circuit. Control circuit models are 6 wire, and non control circuit are 4 wire. This may be part of the issue. If you have a 6 wire buckpuck, and are not using the control wires for the switch, THAT can cause the extra heat.
3. How do you have your switch wired? PICS?
1. Regular Rayovac Alkaline batteries. All 1.5v. Total Battery pack voltage 6.0v
2. Its a normal buckpuck with 4 wires (no control circuit).
3. Here's the pictures.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FIMG_0965.jpg&hash=d572f0068c7900cd3bbb5ddf06ad132d1769e3f3) (http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0965.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FIMG_0966.jpg&hash=d030e948616406c501b28f53e6ffec3059ee35e8) (http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0966.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FIMG_0967.jpg&hash=a2964345abf0cafc6ff66d9878a5311621e7edbd) (http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0967.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FIMG_0968.jpg&hash=db9539039a164eb4096b98e16e0447da9cdb0ffd) (http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0968.jpg)
-
Hmm everything looks to be in order. Switch is in the right place. everything seems to be wired just fine.
How hot is this getting? Like slightly warm, or "cook an egg on it" hot?
-
Is the heatsink getting hot? Are you sure that thermal tape works?
I would rather use something like arctic silver or just a direct contact.
-
The heatsink is actually the thing getting hot. Its not hot enough to melt the hot glue Holding that sanded thin walled tube to the LED and heatsink?
I can hold it in my hand without being burnt, its hot enough to go, ow, but I can still hold it hold it. I have the same trouble when I turn on my lux three in my aluminum MHS saber hilt. Same set up, Buckpuck, 6v alkaline battery pack. If I leave it on for a long period of time, 15-30 minutes, the top half of my hilt gets hot, like a cup of coffee hot, but not hot enough to burn someone.
-
The heatsink is actually the thing getting hot. Its not hot enough to melt the hot glue Holding that sanded thin walled tube to the LED and heatsink?
I can hold it in my hand without being burnt, its hot enough to go, ow, but I can still hold it hold it. I have the same trouble when I turn on my lux three in my aluminum MHS saber hilt. Same set up, Buckpuck, 6v alkaline battery pack. If I leave it on for a long period of time, 15-30 minutes, the top half of my hilt gets hot, like a cup of coffee hot, but not hot enough to burn someone.
If it's not melting anything, and you can hold it in hand.
You are: GOOD TO GO! That's about normal. It won't melt the PVC, that stuff is rated for high temp if it is the electrical conduit PVC. (Grey stuff).
There shouldn't be any issues.
-
Ok, sitting here with four little burned digits and wondering what I should do.
So I decided, ok, its not melting the PVC, lets see what it will do if I leave it on for like 15 minutes. After about three minutes of being on, the pvc was beginning to get a little pliable. Not bendy, but where i could push hard and get it to indent a bit. Then I thought, hey I'll take it out and see how hot the heatsink is. As soon as it hit my fingers, all four of the fingers on my good hand now have blisters on them with a heatsink pattern burnt in them. The hot glue, high temp hot glue that held the LED, optics, thin walled 1" Polyc tube all together, was gooey, not fluid, but gooey.
Suggestions?
-
Two days later, four blistered fingers, and no one has an answer. Do I need a bigger heatsink? Is 1000ma too much for this Seoul P4 Z-Power LED?
*scratches head and ponders*
-
Get a Amp meter and make sure it is really drawing 1000 ma. Dunno what else to tell yah. It shouldn't be generating that kind of heat.
If you are using the PVC make sure it has ventillation. If it is heating the air around it, and theres no proper air flow it would start to melt the plastic.
Put a mini fan in the thing if you really can't get around the heat problem, moving the air around would keep the thing cool.
-
Got an amp meter and checked it out, Its putting out between 999-1001ma. So its all good on that end. Would a longer heatsink help, work?
-
I think putting more metal around it would help more. I mean even a metal blade holder would help.
-
How many inches is there from the switch to the top part of the handle for the dominix? Second how many inches is there from the switch of the dominix to the bottom part of the hilt? My reason for asking these odd questions is because the only way I hold my saber comfortably is to put 1 hand on the top of the saber and 1 hand on the bottom simply because it is more comfortable the distance I like it put my hands at are 3 inches from the bottom of my top hand to the top of my bottom hand I know I could adjust i know im odd and picky slaps myself for that I want to know just to be safe and cause im curius so i can make sure my hands will fit or if i will have to adjust. I did the measurments with my darth maul single hilt so that is the maximum the least distance is 2 and a half I know im odd.
-
So I took it out of the hilt, inside the hilt its fine, but kinda hot. Outside the hilt I had it on for about 30 seconds and poof, the LED didn't stop working, it literally fell right off the Star board it was on.
It got so hot the soldier pads released and it just fell off.
Ideas, help?
-
I just looked at the stat sheet for the P4. the LED is rated at 350 mA MAX current...
Another words, you're frying your LED.
You need to get a 350 mA buckpuck not a 1000 mA one.
Edit> Well thats the recomended Driving current.
If you want to over drive it to 1A, the voltage cannot be over 3.8 Vs... 4xAA =~ 5.2 V.
Try using just 2 batteries, or get a voltage regulator.
Or you can just use this driver circuit http://www.national.com/rd/RD/RD-134.pdf
The buckpuck is for constant current, not constant voltage.
-
HOLY bleepety bleep bleep. I thought that the max drive current was 1000ma. If I'd known that, I would never had put that much power through it.
-
HOLY bleepety bleep bleep. I thought that the max drive current was 1000ma. If I'd known that, I would never had put that much power through it.
Well The max current is 1000 mA. But thats with a max voltage of 3.8Vs. If you increase the voltage, you should decrease the current.
You are supposed to be able to run this off 6Vs, when you measure across the + and - terminals of the LED, it should measure around 3.7 Vs. If you are getting more than that, its why its getting fried.
-
OH CRAP! I wish someone would have told me that sooner.
Ok so here's my set up, what would you recommend changing on it.
4xAA battery holder, currently using 4xAA Rechargable duracells, 1.2v each 2650ma
1000ma Buckpuck
stadard switch
3/8" long aluminum heatsink
-
What is the best aluminum type to use as a base for heatsinking. As far as 6016, or what have you?
-
What is the best aluminum type to use as a base for heatsinking. As far as 6016, or what have you?
get the one thats sold at TCSS. It has all these grooves in it to maximize the dispersement of heat.
-
I'm actully having a friend machine some for me, but I don't know enough about what grade of aluminum would work best for heat transfer.
-
A 1000 mA buck puck puts out the same current if you where to give it 5v or 30v.
It takes the input voltage and adjusts the output voltage to whatever is needed to provide the 1000 mA of current.
The only way I could see it providing too much voltage would be if there was some major resistance in the circuit making it put out more voltage than it should be in order to reach 1000 mA ??
-
Ok, I think I understand, so should I drop the amount of batteries I have in the set, so the voltage is more like 3.6v (3xAA at 1.2v's with rechargables)?
-
Nice to see you finally joined us, I am assuming Tim? Now the circle is complete. ;D
-
In that case, you need to Order an ULTRAFX blade, and Specify that it is for an Anakin. That way you don't need to do any sanding.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=12419.0;topicseen
So this topic above said that a Mid Grade blade will fit my Obi-Wan ROTS mail in conversion. It also said that the Ultrafx Blades where for Anakin ROTS, Vader ESB and Luke ANH.
Ultrasabers' site said Mid Grades are for stunt, apprentice, initiate, Luke ROTJ, and Mace Windu sabers only.
I have two Mid Graeds that came with my Ultra Stunts and they're too big for my Obi-Wan.I know my Obi-Wan ROTS blade holder is stock (black plastic) but if Mid Grades are too big and Ultrafx's are for Anakin, Vader and Luke what exactly should I do? And not to sound rude or anything but I've been looking around for about 2 hours and couldn't find anything else. ???
P.S. I'm sure this is a redundant question by now so I apologize, I'm just not 100% sure about what exactly I need to do to find a new blade. . .
P.P.S. Sorry if this got double posted. I'll try to delete it when I come back.
-
A 1000 mA buck puck puts out the same current if you where to give it 5v or 30v.
It takes the input voltage and adjusts the output voltage to whatever is needed to provide the 1000 mA of current.
The only way I could see it providing too much voltage would be if there was some major resistance in the circuit making it put out more voltage than it should be in order to reach 1000 mA ??
That would make sense if the heat was put out by that resistance. But the major heat source IS the LED, which leads me to believe it is being overdriven. The other thing to consider is, could the buckpuck be wired backwards?
-
I'm pretty good when it comes to wiring stuff, and I'm 99% sure that there is only one way to wire a buck puck.
Two wires for battery, black and red
red goes to the switch and positive on battery pack
black goes direct to negative on battery pack.
White goes to positive on LED
Blue goes to Negative on LED
My buckpuck only has those four wires. No Pot wires.
-
Which color Seoul P4 are you using? The white, green and blue are rated at 350mA to 1000mA (max) but the red is rated only up to 800mA max. Maybe a 700mA would be better for a red?
It is my understanding that it doesn't matter what size of battery pack you are using. As long as the puck can handle it, you could use a 7.2V battery pack and it will safely convert it to 1000mA (or 700mA or whichever you have).
I've also heard that you should use thermal paste to get a better contact to the heatsink. Also, the more pressure you put on the heatsink (with screws if possible), the better the heat transfer to the heatsink (and away from the LED).
-
The LED's white.
I'm using thermal tape (its better than thermal grease. I do have a set of nylon screws that held the LED down. The heat transfer is just fine, otherwise the heatsinks wouldn't be so darn hot. I've got four matching blisters on my right hand fingers from picking it up.
I'm going to post pictures of the setup when i get home later. Let you guys chime in then and see what you think...
-
If everything is ok with the voltage and current, then the heatsink is inadequate for dispersing the heat.
How thick is the heatsink?
The bigger the heatsink, the more heat it will take (before burning your fingers and everything else). A ribbed heatsink will only work if there is air flow. Better to just go thicker.
Still seems like something else is wrong though. I wasn't aware Seoul P4's were supposed to get that hot. Can you try a Lux III or another type of LED and see if it gets that hot also?
-
The LED's white.
I'm using thermal tape (its better than thermal grease. I do have a set of nylon screws that held the LED down. The heat transfer is just fine, otherwise the heatsinks wouldn't be so darn hot. I've got four matching blisters on my right hand fingers from picking it up.
I'm going to post pictures of the setup when i get home later. Let you guys chime in then and see what you think...
I just saw this on deal extreme's website:
[qoute]
Note: we've been recently made aware by fellow customers from CPF that some of these stars are installed with wrong polarity indications causing the emitters to get damaged even when wires are "correctly" installed. We apology for this issue. If you have a non-working star damaged in this way, let us know and we will work with you on a remedy.[/quote]
I wonder if that might have anything to do with it. I'm not sure though, as the led shouldn't even light up if it's soldered to the star backwards....
-
Have you guys who regularly use Seoul P4s experienced any heat issues (more than Lux IIIs) running at 1000 mA?
-
Here's a picture of my set up. And the polarity on mine is correct. I purchased mine through TCSS.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FIMG_0965.jpg&hash=d572f0068c7900cd3bbb5ddf06ad132d1769e3f3)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FIMG_0968.jpg&hash=db9539039a164eb4096b98e16e0447da9cdb0ffd)
-
Well, I'd like to see this mystery solved before I purchase a P4. I was thinking about trying a green or blue to use with an MR board which puts out around 1000mA.
Are you running any other buckpuck setups with different LEDs? I would try another LED to see if it is caused by the buckpuck setup or the LED. A Lux III is rated similarly so if it gets just as hot, then the setup is causing it. If a Lux III runs much cooler, then maybe the P4 is the problem? Maybe the P4 should not be driven at it's max rating?
-
Can you measure across the LED while it is on and tell me what voltage it is reading?
A LED is a diode, which only lets current flow one way. If it was wired backwards it wouldn't even light.
Since it lights, it has to be wired correctly. The question is, is that buckpuck working? Just because its hooked up correctly doesn't mean it works. If you measure the voltage across the led or the output of the puck while it is on, you should get around 3.7 volts. If it is more, then the puck is not working.
That is the ONLY thing it can be. These LEDs don't get blistering hot unless you over drive them.
-
with the momentary switch (from TCSS), how do you know which side to hook up the positive to? does it matter?
Also, what is the ID of DFslotted?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg183.imageshack.us%2Fimg183%2F9522%2F894ju2.jpg&hash=fed08f52d4d96d6792cd3ed310d9093538505dca) (http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9522/894ju2.jpg)
I wanted to know if spkr4aaa would fit into it.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg142.imageshack.us%2Fimg142%2F4483%2F1808047zq4.jpg&hash=43248a254ae35dcfb78fb8b2f62136012ac5a4f2) (http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4483/1808047zq4.jpg)
I'm hoping it fits, if not, I'm gonna have to sell off the spkr4aaa and buy the parts without the speaker mount.
-
You can hook up the switch either way, it is not polarized.
That battery/speaker combo should fit into that piece just fine. I'm almost positive the slotted grove are only on the outside, the ID of the piece is the same as most of the other pieces which were designed to fit that battery/speaker combo.
-
hey guys
well i finally got the guts to go out and buy my own led lightsaber when i stumbled apon this place and i was very impressed. i was hoping to get 2 dark initiates with consular green (sence the destiny wasnt avalible for this model *tear*) and customize it with parts that i would make. i was impressed with the price but i had a few questions to make this order perfect. i read the faq and the help section but i wasnt sure on a few things.
1. could i send it in to get the fx or sound board installed or is that not possible due to its handle or because its an e series?
2. i saw only one sound board and it was only pre order. is there any others?
3. taking all this into consideration would this be considered one of those rare custom jobs?
-
hey guys
well i finally got the guts to go out and buy my own led lightsaber when i stumbled apon this place and i was very impressed. i was hoping to get 2 dark initiates with consular green (sence the destiny wasnt avalible for this model *tear*) and customize it with parts that i would make. i was impressed with the price but i had a few questions to make this order perfect. i read the faq and the help section but i wasnt sure on a few things.
1. could i send it in to get the fx or sound board installed or is that not possible due to its handle or because its an e series?
2. i saw only one sound board and it was only pre order. is there any others?
3. taking all this into consideration would this be considered one of those rare custom jobs?
The e series sabers do not have enough room in the hilts to put a soundboard in.
1. No.
2. Wait until they come back on sale at regular price. Both Ultra Sabers and TCSS will have them for sale after Oct 28th.
3. Yes, and it would be EXPENSIVE... You're better off getting an MHS or Converting over from an FX if you want Ultra Sound. By the time you pay the custom work fees and shipping both ways. YOu could have built a total custom.
-
MR Vader sound boards 2003
This board is going into a new saber, I am not converting this vader saber.
Every schematic I see shows only 2 wires to the power button, the one I have has 4. Green/purple/blue and gray.
Green and purple power on, ....green and blue power off
Gray????? NO IDEA!!!
I still use an SPDT switch for this right??
What is that gray one for?
Also the motion sensor is VERY sensitive, ...may just leave it off.
-
I have a question about conversions. Will you offer Hasbro force fx lightsabers conversions? I'm buying this... Obi-Wan Saber and it looks like the from Master Replicas, but I don't know if it is internal as well. So, are you gonna convert lightsabers from Hasbro?
Thank you for your answers!
Padawan Bogdan
-
Yes.
They are the same.
Yes
-
haha, i agree, having a custom saber would be great. Han, i have a question i don't know where to put. I just bought a saberforge hilt off ebay, and was wondering if the TCSS LED Specific LUX 3 Kit would work in it, and if i would also need to purchase a heatsink.
-
haha, i agree, having a custom saber would be great. Han, i have a question i don't know where to put. I just bought a saberforge hilt off ebay, and was wondering if the TCSS LED Specific LUX 3 Kit would work in it, and if i would also need to purchase a heatsink.
Your best bet would be to write SaberForge a PM. He's a Member here.
Also, anytime you got a question and don't know where to post it, this is your best bet. This is sort of an "Every Type of Question" Thread. ;D
-
i have a question concerning the new gun metal stainless steel saber how much more does it weigh compared to the the other stunt sabers?
-
Gotta a link to it? Never heard of it.
-
sure here you are they are new
http://www.ultrasabers.com/S3_p/sabers-ss.htm
-
http://www.ultrasabers.com/category_s/4.htm
;D
what am i a mod :D
i wish :-\
Edit: howie beat me :'(
-
Well, howie, it appears that it is made from Gun Metal. Gun Metal, to my knowledge is a heavier metal because it needs to sustain recoil, velocity and heat. So I would imagine that it is a thick metal than most of the sabers made. My guess, probably the same or similar weight of the Mace. But I may be wrong. Your best bet is to contact Angela at Ultra Sabers. Her address is on the Ultra Webpage.
-
OR... it's a gun metal finish ;)
-
http://www.ultrasabers.com/category_s/4.htm
;D
what am i a mod :D
i wish :-\
Edit: howie beat me :'(
Keep dreaming...
-
OR... it's a gun metal finish ;)
My bad. Playing scary video games and reading sometimes aren't compatible. ;D
But, it being Steel, instead of Aluminuminuminum, :P it will be heavier. I still say maybe like the Mace Windu or 2007 Vader ANH.
http://www.ultrasabers.com/category_s/4.htm
;D
what am i a mod :D
i wish :-\
Edit: howie beat me :'(
Keep dreaming...
BOSSK! So Jabba sent you, eh? I think Chewie has a score to settle with you! :D
-
No Actually, Vader sent me, Solo... ;D Said something about the aluminum falcon? He wanted you Alive too.... Looked at that Mandalorian fellow when he said it too...
Personally... *Raises Blaster* He said NOTHING about a 100% intact... :D
-
Play nice you two! lol
Ok, got a question for the sabersmiths.
Tools!
Dremels. They are used in saber making as well as in costume/prop making. And I'm gonna need one here in the near future.
Any suggestions on brand, type, size, bits/nuts and where to find them?
I found this one online. Not too expensive, small and easy to store: http://www.toolup.com/dremel/750-02.html
-
Ah, ...I just turned mine off, ...soing some work for Masterkris here.
Personally the 350 is nice, ...dremel brand. (I suppose any MULTI_SPEED dremel like device will be fine though. The screw on 3 claw chuck makes for easy mandrel disconnects, but it is usually sold seperately.
Reinforced cutoff wheels are what I go through the most.
Sanders:
Most come with afew 1/2" drum sanders and wheel, ....but look for the 1/4" drum sander, ....it is PRICELESS!!!!! Gets in tighter places. Also comes in 3 different grits.
We just bought the dremel drill press bench thingy attachement. It works well. Turns the dremel into a small drill press, ..but also holds the dremel inplace when using a cut off wheel, sander, polisher, .etc.
GET A WAND!!!
Wands are great for precision work.
And for the Love of God, ....GET SOME SAFETY GLASSES!!!!
So, ......in short, ...multi-speed dremel, cut-off wheels, sanders dremel press, wand and glasses. You are good to go.
Hope this helps, you Master Ti
Edit:
Here is a pic of the dremel press in action, ....with 3 dremels!! Please disregard the wine in the background ::)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2Fmantis%2FDSCF0951.jpg&hash=170cbfe2a533683dbb80fad12261b2c53fabcf99) (http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd328/darth_call/mantis/DSCF0951.jpg)
-
I personally don't care for the cordless Dremels. Especially if you are going to be using it a LOT for heavy cutting such as sinktubes, and heavy plastics or even leather.
I use the Dremel 300 Series myself. Best bang for the buck without all that digital read-out jazz.
They come in a kit with a case, and an assortment of the most used bits for about $60
The tool itself is variable speed (which is GOOD) and has the ability to be used with a flex shaft (Which I HIGHLY recommend)
I also have a Cheapy Rotary tool that I bought at Target of all places. All of the bits and accessories for Dremel can be used with it. And it only cost $25, but you get what you pay for, so I only use it for light duty stuff.
You can get all the dits and bobs for it just about anywwhere that sells the tools. I recommend the E-Z Lock kit as well. The main kit you should look into getting along with the tool itself is the $30 kit. it has EVERYTHING you will most likely need, and if it doesn't then you can always buy the bits separately.
Places Like Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Wal Mart, Target, Meijer...
I have found that Lowe's (at least in my town) Has the best deal and largest selection of accessories for them.
There are other rotary tools available on the market, but remember that you get a NICE warranty with the dremel line, and they have the most abundant selection of bits around.
YOu get what you pay for, but I would not spend more than $70 on the tool myself.
**EDIT - HOLY COW look at all those rotary tools! ;D Darth Call you have quite the arsenal at your disposal!
-
HOLY COW look at all those rotary tools! ;D Darth Call you have quite the arsenal at your disposal!
lol, ...they're not all mine, ....we had 3 people that night making sabers.
Actually, ...the only thing there that is "technically mine" is the crappy little soldering iron and helping hands/magnifier in the background.
(Note to dagobah Jedi and Master Jedye): All your dremel are belong to us!!
-
Nah, just $70 out the door ;)
Thanks guys... Wow a bit overwhelming lol Living in a Dorm room probably isn't the best place to work on things...hence the search for hand held devices that can be easily stored and a sufficient selection bits, etc. Price makes a huge difference too. That I and I wouldn't use it very often...
Hey DT, there's a Dremel 300 for $56 at Amazon :P
ST
-
HOLY COW look at all those rotary tools! ;D Darth Call you have quite the arsenal at your disposal!
lol, ...they're not all mine, ....we had 3 people that night making sabers.
Actually, ...the only thing there that is "technically mine" is the crappy little soldering iron and helping hands/magnifier in the background.
(Note to dagobah Jedi and Master Jedye): All your dremel are belong to us!!
You also provide the chips and dip. Let's see...$80 drimmel vs a bag of Doritos. Sounds like a fair trade.
-
OK,
here:
It's Habor Frieght THOUGH!!!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92880
small and comes witha wand and several attachments.
Light duty I'm sure, ....but it is variable speed
-
That one's not a bad deal for general purpose use...
Plus you're not out much if it craps out...
Most of that Chicago tool stuff from HF has a one year warranty anyway.
-
OK,
here:
It's Habor Frieght THOUGH!!!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92880
small and comes witha wand and several attachments.
Light duty I'm sure, ....but it is variable speed
Hehe We have a Harbor Freight store here in Redding. It's been several years since I've been there but I'm betting it's still open...
-
They sometimes have a bad rep for less reliable Chinese material selling, .....but I guess as long as u don't chew the lead paint off of it, ....and be gentle with it, it should be OK.
I have friends who SWEAR by harbor frieght, and look to them first before ordering elsewhere. It's a matter of opinion I guess.
Heck, the wand alone is worth almost 30 bucks.
I need some help???????
Anyone know how to wire up a joe jedi board to use a LUX3 at full power? What resistor has to be removed/jumped, etc.
And why oh why do companies out the power button RIGHT ON THE BOARD!!!!!
I got the "wiring part" figured, ...just not sure about the resistors. I assume green is putting out more?????
*EDITED FOR CONTENT*
HAN SOLO
Cheap Chinese Crap
I have seeing this being used alot on the Site, but catering to all Nationalities on the Site. Members, please refrain from derrogatory slander to different materials from other Countries. Darth_Call, you're not the first and not the last, so no worries. 8) Just do like I do and find something creative to express the opinion of it. ;) I ain't now Saint here and I am worse in real life for somethings.
*Cough* Playing Hockey *Cough* ;)
-
:-\
hey Dt
Can one use a mom switch if wiring without a sound board? :-\
-
:-\
hey Dt
Can one use a mom switch if wiring without a sound board? :-\
Well you can, but you would have to hold it down while using the saber... Unless of course you use a latching relay. Or a corbin driver, or Erv's driver
-
:D :D
Thanks DT!!I'll use a latch lol :D :D
-
hi guys and gals,
this is my first post her so please be gentle.
i have tried searching for the answer to this but to no avail, can anyone point me in the direction of info (preferably with pics) on identifiying the diferent sabre model's, as i know the saber (only 1 at moment) i have is a anakin but im not sure whether its an AOTC or an ROTS, and from what i gather there is a early and later version.
many thanks for any help on this.
P.S i hope ive posted this in the correct thread.
-
AOTC will look just like a vader MR but have a chrome shroud. and the ani ROTS will look like a graflex.
-
exellent then it is a ROTS
thanks for that mate
by the way guys awesome forum ;D
-
Most of my sabers "CAN" split into 2 pieces, joined at the mid section. Battery packs, speakers, button and even sometimes the LED stops this from being practical.
Can I use mini Tamiya style connectors for the speaker, battery button and LED?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2F6304201t.jpg&hash=113550404cd07fd063eaea0a33dfc830844234dc) (http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd328/darth_call/6304201t.jpg)
-
Most of my sabers "CAN" split into 2 pieces, joined at the mid section. Battery packs, speakers, button and even sometimes the LED stops this from being practical.
Can I use mini Tamiya style connectors for the speaker, battery button and LED?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2F6304201t.jpg&hash=113550404cd07fd063eaea0a33dfc830844234dc) (http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd328/darth_call/6304201t.jpg)
I see no reason why you couldn't....
-
Cooooooool,
Thanks Master Jinn.
This is gonna make a few things easier for me and future upgrades easier!!
-
The only problem with those is that they aren't as "mini" as some would believe.
The ones I like are these:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SBC-1/SMALL-BATTERY-CONNECTOR-WHITE/-/1.html
You have to buy the headers for them separately, and you have to solder wires to them, but they are MUCH smaller.
Just follow the recommendation of the Catalog Number SBH-1 for the headers.
-
The only problem with those is that they aren't as "mini" as some would believe.
The ones I like are these:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SBC-1/SMALL-BATTERY-CONNECTOR-WHITE/-/1.html
You have to buy the headers for them separately, and you have to solder wires to them, but they are MUCH smaller.
Just follow the recommendation of the Catalog Number SBH-1 for the headers.
Wow those are small, ...those are what are on the end of cordless phone batteries correct??
I'll try a few of them as well, thanks.
-
Those are excellent connectors, I use them myself. I hadn't thought of those when you posted about the others. soldering to those headers isn't that difficult...i've managed to do it, so i'll bet you can too, darth_call.
-
I just bought ten of each, ..will sit down one day and solder them all at once and be done with, ...(that should leave me at least 2 good ones left once I finish. ::)
Thanks, those will work great. I did buy a few mini tamiyas too just to see how they would do.
-
Those are excellent connectors, I use them myself. I hadn't thought of those when you posted about the others. soldering to those headers isn't that difficult...i've managed to do it, so i'll bet you can too, darth_call.
They aren't difficult to solder to at all. Qui-Gon is correct.
Just make sure your iron is good and hot, pre-tin the wire, and don't hold the iron on them too long. Make sure to isolate the connections too with a little shrink tubing.
-
:-\
Hey Dt Why is parks getting into the star trek lol :-\ :-\
-
:-\
Hey Dt Why is parks getting into the star trek lol :-\ :-\
Beats me...
;D it's still cool though!
If you look around, he also has the M41 Pulse rifles from Aliens.
-
;)
check out their web-site tomorrow lol :D :D
-
Can someone help me pick out some trustfires? I don't know weather to go with the 900mah or 2500mah. Will the li-ion chargers at tcss work with either?
-
;D
check out this linky DT!! ;D
http://www.parksabers.com/startrekcommunicator.html
-
;D
check out this linky DT!! ;D
http://www.parksabers.com/startrekcommunicator.html
I WANT ONE! 8)
Can someone help me pick out some trustfires? I don't know weather to go with the 900mah or 2500mah. Will the li-ion chargers at tcss work with either?
It depends on your voltage...
Also how much space is in your hilt?
-
Soooo, ...I just scored a small home-style powder coating sprayer, ...read a few tutorials in other places 'round the ole' net.
Is it really just that easy, ....make sure everything is grounded, spray powder and bake?????
I will of course experiment once it arrives, ..but any tips, tricks and suggestions anyone has on powder coating will be well received.
Thanks
-
Well, I need 2 sets. One set will go with my CF powered, lux V green, MHS V2 project (I'll have to send you some pics DT. You kinda inspired me on this one. Space is tight but there is enough room for a 2AA pack. The second set I will be using for my US2 powered, Lux III r/o starkiller.
-
Well, I need 2 sets. One set will go with my CF powered, lux V green, MHS V2 project (I'll have to send you some pics DT. You kinda inspired me on this one. Space is tight but there is enough room for a 2AA pack. The second set I will be using for my US2 powered, Lux III r/o starkiller.
The TCSS charger should work just fine.
Since you are going with Lux V you need as much current as you can throw at it.
Have you thought about CR123's at all? You can parallel two sets
-
Well, I need 2 sets. One set will go with my CF powered, lux V green, MHS V2 project (I'll have to send you some pics DT. You kinda inspired me on this one. Space is tight but there is enough room for a 2AA pack. The second set I will be using for my US2 powered, Lux III r/o starkiller.
The TCSS charger should work just fine.
Since you are going with Lux V you need as much current as you can throw at it.
Have you thought about CR123's at all? You can parallel two sets
I've thought about that, but I can't seem to find a suitable battery holder. I think the problem I might have is that the chassis (hint, hint) fits into a 3" extention and the board and pack fit halfway inside the ribbed section. Did I say tight? I meant reaaalllly tight!
-
LED's...
Ok, so I'm checking out threads at Mando Mercs and I come across a thread where someone wants to add a Kit (Knight Rider) style led set up in his Mando helmet. Some one post a link to a site where he buys his leds... This kinda caught my eye and wanted to know what you sabersmiths and experienced saber makers think about this? Good for a blade or just accent lighting?
http://www.oznium.com/led
Of course, this is out of curiousity...
-
I say good for accent lighting, ....very good price too!!
Gonna bookmark this one,
Thanks Master Ti!!
-
Welcome :) Uhm... is there even a list here of LED websites, makers here as a thread for people to look up??
-
LED's...
Ok, so I'm checking out threads at Mando Mercs and I come across a thread where someone wants to add a Kit (Knight Rider) style led set up in his Mando helmet. Some one post a link to a site where he buys his leds... This kinda caught my eye and wanted to know what you sabersmiths and experienced saber makers think about this? Good for a blade or just accent lighting?
http://www.oznium.com/led
Of course, this is out of curiousity...
So since these are designed to run from 2 - 4v, does that mean we could use these without resistors? most of the Lux we use have a forward voltage of 3.7v correct?
-
I think they would still need to be resistored one way or the other, ......well, ....I try to use a 4 AAA pack, ...so I think 6 or volts in that case would not be good for these without resistors.
-
Welcome :) Uhm... is there even a list here of LED websites, makers here as a thread for people to look up??
Google. ;)
-
LED's...
Ok, so I'm checking out threads at Mando Mercs and I come across a thread where someone wants to add a Kit (Knight Rider) style led set up in his Mando helmet. Some one post a link to a site where he buys his leds... This kinda caught my eye and wanted to know what you sabersmiths and experienced saber makers think about this? Good for a blade or just accent lighting?
http://www.oznium.com/led
Of course, this is out of curiousity...
Nice site, Shaak Ti! Thanks!
-
Welcome :) Uhm... is there even a list here of LED websites, makers here as a thread for people to look up??
Google. ;)
Harhar, Mr. Smarty Pants! lol What I mean is a thread sticky with a list of known sites that sell saber grade LED's and accent led's like the site I found...
LED's...
Ok, so I'm checking out threads at Mando Mercs and I come across a thread where someone wants to add a Kit (Knight Rider) style led set up in his Mando helmet. Some one post a link to a site where he buys his leds... This kinda caught my eye and wanted to know what you sabersmiths and experienced saber makers think about this? Good for a blade or just accent lighting?
http://www.oznium.com/led
Of course, this is out of curiousity...
Nice site, Shaak Ti! Thanks!
Your welcome :)
-
Soor Shaak... Couldn't resist jibing a MOD about google.
That's not a bad Idea.
-
Soooo, ...I just scored a small home-style powder coating sprayer, ...read a few tutorials in other places 'round the ole' net.
Is it really just that easy?, ....make sure everything is grounded, spray powder and bake?????
I will of course experiment once it arrives, ..but any tips, tricks and suggestions anyone has on powder coating will be well received.
Thanks
Anybody???? Any tips or suggestions?
-
Oops! I meant to comment on that.
Yes, It is really that easy, though I don't recommend baking it in your food oven! ;)
A good solution is a toaster-oven.
I haven't done much powder-coating, but Judge Saber Smith has done a bit I believe. He might be able to point you in the right direction my friend! ;)
-
Cooool, .... ;D Thanks DT, (sie note, ...my SBH-2 battery connectors and headers came in, ...soldered on the headers with no problem, I'm gonna like these!!!).
I ordered some tiger Drylac powder as it seems fairly consistent.
I have a toaster oven that currently just burns bread, ......so it's becoming my PC Oven. Will try it out on scraps when it it arrives.
-
These LEDs are 5mm rated at 3.7Vs
http://parts.digikey.co.uk/1/1/1304548-led-ss-5mm-458nm-blue-water-clr-wp7113pbc-z.html
-
Had a thought about joining two sabers together with UBER strong magnets. I mean like industrial strength. My only concern is that the magnets would efect the batteries. Does any one know?
-
Had a thought about joining two sabers together with UBER strong magnets. I mean like industrial strength. My only concern is that the magnets would efect the batteries. Does any one know?
Darth Technous, AKA Do-Clo has used Rare Earth Magnets to couple a saber up.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9138.0
-
Does it work well?
-
Read for yourself. ;)
-
It won't. Batteries operate on a chemical reaction. In order for magnets to affect anything electrical, it has to be through induction to generate a current. Unless you have coils of wiring in your saber, the effect from those magnets are very negligible.
-
It won't. Batteries operate on a chemical reaction. In order for magnets to affect anything electrical, it has to be through induction to generate a current. Unless you have coils of wiring in your saber, the effect from those magnets are very negligible.
True but for one exception. Speakers. If you place them far enough away from the magnets, they will not be effected by the field, but if you move them close to the magnetic couplers, then you run the risk of major distortion, and possible damage to your sound card, or speaker, possibly BOTH.
-
It won't. Batteries operate on a chemical reaction. In order for magnets to affect anything electrical, it has to be through induction to generate a current. Unless you have coils of wiring in your saber, the effect from those magnets are very negligible.
True but for one exception. Speakers. If you place them far enough away from the magnets, they will not be effected by the field, but if you move them close to the magnetic couplers, then you run the risk of major distortion, and possible damage to your sound card, or speaker, possibly BOTH.
yeah true, but I was told by a doctorate of Biochemical engineering the other day that transducers are not considered electrical components. Just a technicality but yeah, Spearkers can be distorted in a strong magnetic field. They will not however damage your sound card. What will happen is that the coil in the speaker will be pulled towards the magnet and refuse to move. So the induction of the coil to generate sound will not happen. But the current flowing through the speaker is not large and there is no feedback of electricity from the magnets because electricity will only be generated from a moving magnetic field and the magnets are stationary.
-
Hey everyone, and Merry Christmas.
I just recieved an ultrasabers Legacy for christmas. I imagine it is pretty nice, but for the life of me, I cannot find where the batteries go. Help me please.
-
Unscrew/pry the "plug"on the pommel of the hilt, ......sometimes it unscrews off, ...mine just kinda got "pryed off"
The little battery pack is in there.
-
What is the DEAL with people posting the same question in four different topics?
-
Maybe he didn't think it would get answered..... ???
-
Hi,
I just finished reading the rules and regulations, and I agree completely. This might sound silly but what is Flaming? I have never heard of it and would like to know what it is so I dont do it ;)
Thank you in advance.
-
Hi,
I just finished reading the rules and regulations, and I agree completely. This might sound silly but what is Flaming? I have never heard of it and would like to know what it is so I dont do it ;)
Thank you in advance.
Verbally (typed, anyway) attacking someone or something on the internet.
Edit: Well, thats my way of putting it. If you're up for some light reading this is a more official definition;
Flaming is the act of posting or sending offensive messages over the Internet. These messages, called "flames," may be posted within online discussion forums or newsgroups, or sent via e-mail or instant messaging programs. The most common area where flaming takes place is online discussion forums, which are also called bulletin boards.
Flaming often leads to the trading of insults between members within a certain forum. This is an unfortunate result, as it often throws the discussion of a legitimate topic well off track. For example, the topic of a discussion forum may be "Choosing a Mac or a PC." Some Mac user may post a message gloating about the benefits of a Mac, which in turn prompts a response from a PC user explaining why Macs suck and why Windows is obviously the better platform. The Mac user may then post a reply saying that Mac users are, in fact, a more intelligent species who are not as naive as PC users. This kindles a more personal attack from the PC user, which incites an all out flame war.
These flame wars, also called "pie fights," are not limited to only two people at a time, but may involve multiple users. This causes a swell of negatively within online discussion groups and results in little, if any, productively. Flaming is unfortunately one of the most common breaches of online netiquette. Instead of being considerate of others' viewpoints, "flamers" force their own agendas on other users.
While some flaming is intentional, some is not. This is because users may misunderstand the intent of a another user's message or forum posting. For example, someone may make a sarcastic comment that is not understood as sarcastic by another user, who may take offense to the message. Using emoticons and clearly explaining one's intent can help avoid online misunderstandings. Because of the adverse effects of flaming, it is best to err on the side of humility and be courteous when posting or sending messages online.
-
I am currently working on a color changing RGB saber with a Clone Wars build a saber soundboard. I have everything wired up but I am unhappy with the brightness of the RGB LED. I am currently using 3 100 ohm resistors, and 4AAA batteries. I am planning on upgrading the resistors to 1 watt 18 ohms. Will these improve it? What resistors do you guys suggest I use to maximize the brightness of the RGB LED?
-
Well what RGB are you using? Prolight? Cree? Osram? Seoul? Rebel? Ledengin? custom trilux?
Each of these have different voltage and current requirements, and will require different setups for each.
It really helps to know the Specs of the LED. ;)
That sounds like a LOT of resistance.
Are you running the LEDS in series or parallel?
-
Here's a resistor calculator, it may help a little:
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
-
hehe I got one for you craftsy people who have and use dremels/rotary tools...
What's the best kind of bit to "cut" through casted resin and possible fiberglass? ;D I've a black and decker RTX3spd if that helps...
-
hehe I got one for you craftsy people who have and use dremels/rotary tools...
What's the best kind of bit to "cut" through casted resin and possible fiberglass? ;D I've a black and decker RTX3spd if that helps...
Fiberglass...a re-enforced wheel.
Resin...a heavy duty wheel (but be prepared for some melting from the resin)
The re-enforced wheel is thicker so if ou need finer lines...use the heavy-duty wheel...but it'll grind down quicker. Invest in some drum sanders of various sizes too.
Both, can be sanded to shape with the drum sanders (but again...they may some melting from the resin)
-
Thanks Jedye ;) I'm not exactly sure what all you meant... I'm not into power tools and all, ya know :D Hey... tell me if any of these are it? Probably not...but worth a shot. These came with the RTX Call sent me...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi22.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb336%2FLadySythe%2FDSCN2526.jpg&hash=7ab732339b0b14c671f42e19717be53b39a06e61)
What I need it for is resin and fiberglass. And I bet you're wondering why I'm asking all these questions... you'll see soon enough ;D
-
Well what RGB are you using? Prolight? Cree? Osram? Seoul? Rebel? Ledengin? custom trilux?
Each of these have different voltage and current requirements, and will require different setups for each.
It really helps to know the Specs of the LED. ;)
That sounds like a LOT of resistance.
Are you running the LEDS in series or parallel?
I am using the 3W LED Emitter on Star from dealextreme.com. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4530
Here are the specs:
- Driving voltage and current per channel:
*
Red: 2.5V ~ 3.0V, 350mA
*
Green: 3.2V ~ 3.8V, 350mA
*
Blue: 3.2V ~ 3.8V, 350mA
- Note: each color channel is able to take a maximum of 350mA of current, thus a 1050mA combined current input and the 3W rating.
I am running the LEDs in series.
-
Thanks Jedye ;) I'm not exactly sure what all you meant... I'm not into power tools and all, ya know :D Hey... tell me if any of these are it? Probably not...but worth a shot. These came with the RTX Call sent me...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi22.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb336%2FLadySythe%2FDSCN2526.jpg&hash=7ab732339b0b14c671f42e19717be53b39a06e61)
What I need it for is resin and fiberglass. And I bet you're wondering why I'm asking all these questions... you'll see soon enough ;D
The little 'drums' are for sanding...keep those, you'll need them.
The tiny ALL silver shaft with the screw on top...that's the shaft that will hold a cutting wheel.
And I think those are your cutting wheels in the plastic container. (Can't tell from the computer I'm on right now...it's a projected screen so pics aren't clear). Let me check some specs else-where...I'll get back with you.
When you're ready to start...IM me if you have any questions.
-
Thanks dude ;D And if you're not around... I'll ask your twin ;)
-
Well what RGB are you using? Prolight? Cree? Osram? Seoul? Rebel? Ledengin? custom trilux?
Each of these have different voltage and current requirements, and will require different setups for each.
It really helps to know the Specs of the LED. ;)
That sounds like a LOT of resistance.
Are you running the LEDS in series or parallel?
I am using the 3W LED Emitter on Star from dealextreme.com. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4530
Here are the specs:
- Driving voltage and current per channel:
*
Red: 2.5V ~ 3.0V, 350mA
*
Green: 3.2V ~ 3.8V, 350mA
*
Blue: 3.2V ~ 3.8V, 350mA
- Note: each color channel is able to take a maximum of 350mA of current, thus a 1050mA combined current input and the 3W rating.
I am running the LEDs in series.
That is a prolight knockoff.
Basically the same thing as the Joe Jedi LED.
Those LED's are JUNK in my opinion. I have had four of them blow on me and I was using 4.5v.
Do yourself a favor... Spend the extra cash and get one of these...
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Seoul/-3.5W-Seoul-LEDs/Seoul-3.5W-RGB-SMD--P5-Version-II--on-PCB-LT-1456_121_78.html
-
I have one Obi Wan ROTS saber that I want to modify with an upgrade. What is the best company that can do the job and why?
-
I replied to your question on my board 8)
-
I have a completely noobish question that I SHOULD, (by now) know the answer to , ...yet some reason, ...I do not know it, ...nor can I find a thread about this, ..so maybe someone can help.
What is max voltage I can use for an MR board, I vaguely remember someone saying 6v??
I want to use the 2 trustfire setup for a yoda board and eventually a MR Obi board with a LUX3 LED and one or 2 accent LEDS. Can this be done? What other options other than the 4 AAA battery can you all suggest that is efficient.
Thanks!
-
I have a completely noobish question that I SHOULD, (by now) know the answer to , ...yet some reason, ...I do not know it, ...nor can I find a thread about this, ..so maybe someone can help.
What is max voltage I can use for an MR board, I vaguely remember someone saying 6v??
I want to use the 2 trustfire setup for a yoda board and eventually a MR Obi board with a LUX3 LED and one or 2 accent LEDS. Can this be done? What other options other than the 4 AAA battery can you all suggest that is efficient.
Thanks!
you are right DC, they are 6v max.. i believe the mace is a little higher, but that doesn't really apply right now lol.. so those trust fires might be pushing it a little.
swaping out the resistor would do anything would it? that only affects outward voltage, going to the led. right? so they dont affect the max input.
my suggestion, is to go to a hobby shop to see if they have a li-ion single cell regargable. not like a AA cell, but the flat kind? i think ive seen some like that at a shop in my city, they were around 5v i believe.
hope you get it figured out, that will be a sweet set up 8)
-
I have a completely noobish question that I SHOULD, (by now) know the answer to , ...yet some reason, ...I do not know it, ...nor can I find a thread about this, ..so maybe someone can help.
What is max voltage I can use for an MR board, I vaguely remember someone saying 6v??
I want to use the 2 trustfire setup for a yoda board and eventually a MR Obi board with a LUX3 LED and one or 2 accent LEDS. Can this be done? What other options other than the 4 AAA battery can you all suggest that is efficient.
Thanks!
Here is something you might want to consider DC.
You would need TWO of these: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2116
Wire them in parallel.
That will give you 3.7V @ 1800mAh if you use two of the trustfires.
-
Here is something you might want to consider DC.
You would need TWO of these: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2116
Wire them in parallel.
That will give you 3.7V @ 1800mAh if you use two of the trustfires.
Easy enough, ....Thanks Lord Tyranus! They have those at my local Radio Shack, ..will pick em up Monday.
-
Hi everyone, I am new here.
Just one question regarding the mace fx saber. I understand there were two versions, with one being "brighter purple" than the other? Is there a way to tell the difference without opening the item? Thanks in advance for any thoughts...
-
Not really... Since they are kind of a mixed bag...
Look at the date on the box.
If it says 2004 it is most likely one of the pinker looking versions.
*Edit- Wrong year...*
-
Ok, let's see
The Mace AOTC 2004 which I own came with a big box, this saber ain't as purple as the 2005 one's. If the box says ROTS then it's definitely the more common one available with better blade & sounds. Also if the box is newer type smaller box then you got this "slightly" better version
-
Is this the right place to be asking about E-Series sabers? If so, would it be possible to screw one side of a Tempest into one side of a Phantom, making an angled saber?
-
Ok, let's see
The Mace AOTC 2004 which I own came with a big box, this saber ain't as purple as the 2005 one's. If the box says ROTS then it's definitely the more common one available with better blade & sounds. Also if the box is newer type smaller box then you got this "slightly" better version
Thank you kindly for the information.
-
Is this the right place to be asking about E-Series sabers? If so, would it be possible to screw one side of a Tempest into one side of a Phantom, making an angled saber?
Go look around US's part. I believe this has been answered. If not, I don't think this is the right place to ask...
... but in theory, yes it could be done. ;) All the couplers are standard PVC pieces. So, if I am assuming correctly, then Ultra uses the same couplers on the phantom and on the tempest. I'm sure someone a little more knowledgeable will be along to correct me if i'm wrong...
-
"around US's part"? <_< Sorry, I'm really new.
-
"around US's part"? <_< Sorry, I'm really new.
He means Ultrasabers topics, (US), ...but this is the every type of question thread, ...I'm sure an Ultrasaber Liason will answer your question in a little while.
Or anyone who has both sabers to compare the pommel.
-
Is this the right place to be asking about E-Series sabers? If so, would it be possible to screw one side of a Tempest into one side of a Phantom, making an angled saber?
I don't see why not, but that would be one Lopsided saber...
-
;D
does anyone have a wiring diagram for a tactile switch? :-\
-
What kind of diagram do you need Benjo?
What board?
-
What kind of diagram do you need Benjo?
What board?
erv 4.1?
Us 2.1?
-
Tactiles wire in just like any other switch. ;)
US 2.1 will work just like before, but you are going to be pleasantly surprised to know that you can use ANY momentary switch with that setup. ;)
For CF, They wire in just the same as any other momentary, but you need to make sure that your configuration files synch up. Make sure to set your switch parameter to "2" and you are good to go my friend. ;)
-
;)
Thanks DT!!I'll save this info.I really love the way that alex looks after his people!! ;D ;)
-
Ok, I have a quesion. I have a MHS saber I built for Christmas, and it uses a 4AA battery holder. I wanted to add my hasbro build your own lightsaber soundboard to it, from the old toy saber that came out like 4 years ago, but I learned that I shouldn't use more then 3AA's, or it may blow the board.
So, my question:
If I want to add a FX soundboard to it, will I be able to use the 4AA, or would I have to switch to 3AA's?
Thanks.
-
4AA is fine. Jost do't go any higher with the voltage than 6V. MR boards like to give up the genie smoke higher than 6.5V...
-
Ok, I have a quesion. I have a MHS saber I built for Christmas, and it uses a 4AA battery holder. I wanted to add my hasbro build your own lightsaber soundboard to it, from the old toy saber that came out like 4 years ago, but I learned that I shouldn't use more then 3AA's, or it may blow the board.
So, my question:
If I want to add a FX soundboard to it, will I be able to use the 4AA, or would I have to switch to 3AA's?
Thanks.
Dt is right about that;but,as for the hasbro I use a four AAA holder all the time and I never had a sound board go up in smoke yet. ;)
-
Yeah, for my first MHS though, I want to keep it nice, so I think I will go for the MR board anyways, thanks for your help
-
Alright with a P4, do you need a special lens holder or will a LUX III/V lens holder work? Master Jedye told me to use the LUX III holder, but i really need to make sure or my dad will totally push me out of the saber business for good. He hates it when he has to send something back because it won't work.
I also hate to second guess MJ, but I need to... Sorry MJ. :-\ :-[
To avoid cluttering this thread, thanks Master Jay-gon! ;) :)
And thanks to you too DCv1.0. ;) i wasn't sure... But now i am.
-
Alright with a P$, do you need a special lens holder or will a LUX III/V lens holder work? Master Jedye told me to use the LUX III holder, but i really need to make sure or my dad will totally push me out of the saber business for good. He hates it when he has to send something back because it won't work.
I also hate to second guess MJ, but I need to... Sorry MJ. :-\ :-[
Use the lux III lenses and holders, they work.
-
I think it is standard to use the LuX3 holder, ...and they work well, ....I HAVE used a K2 holder, .....but they need some trimming
-
Has anyone ever tried to take a Luke ESB LE saber apart?
Does it come apart like a Graflex?
Thanks all.
-
Has anyone ever tried to take a Luke ESB LE saber apart?
Does it come apart like a Graflex?
Thanks all.
Why? You can get replica graflex flashes for $150. ;)
-
True, but I got this LE for quite a bit less. It has no plaque or case.
And the grips are on it already :)
-
True, but I got this LE for quite a bit less. It has no plaque or case.
And the grips are on it already :)
But destroying an LE to build an FX from? They do not come apart the same way, and will require QUITE extensive work: machining, parts replication, fabrication, and lots of stressful time spent fighting with the design phase.
You may think it's money and time saved, but in reality, once you spend more money just attempting to get the LE properly prepared for installation, you will have spent well more than you would have if you just picked up a replica from Parks, TCSS, or on ebay, and got premade parts designed to fit them properly.
I'm not trying to say it's not possible, and if you're one for a challenge, then by all means go for it.
I'm just saying that you run the risk of damaging the LE beyond salvage, and most likely will end up unsatisfied with the result, and loss of time, money and effort.
-
And here you go. 9 hours left and just over $100. He doesn't state what kind it is but that it is new. A guess would be a Parks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Graflex-3-Cell-flash-assembly-Star-Wars-ANH-lightsaber_W0QQitemZ110343400539QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item110343400539&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
IMO listen to DT. Start from scratch. If you are short on cash sell your LE to fund it. ;) The grips are not that hard to due especially if you do the ANH version. ESB is a bit more work with the screws. We are here to help if you need it.
-
That's the same replica flash that Parks and TCSS sell.
-
Thank you both for the advice. And for the lead on the Graflex on e-bay.
I did bid in it, but was not the highest bidder. Not to mention at $129.00 the seller's reserve was not met.
The money is not THAT big of a deal on a saber build up. I just thought that if MR used replica flashes for the base of that saber I would have a head start on it.
Thanks again.
-
Thank you both for the advice. And for the lead on the Graflex on e-bay.
I did bid in it, but was not the highest bidder. Not to mention at $129.00 the seller's reserve was not met.
The money is not THAT big of a deal on a saber build up. I just thought that if MR used replica flashes for the base of that saber I would have a head start on it.
Thanks again.
Nope they have their own hilt. It would be great if the MRs were graflex.
Yes you have to be careful on ebay. Some sellers take advantage of the week minded. Don't get yourself caught in the bidding frenzy. You can get one form Parks or TCSS that are the one's Yoda uses for $150. Why pay more on Ebay. But I have seen it. I have seen vintage ones go well over $200.
Think before you bid. You can get lucky on Ebay as they sometimes have a great deal. But IMO go with TCSS. ;)
Also check the graflex build section for members and you'll find other places to get parts. TCSS sells most if not all of them now. But some are better than others. Like I said, it's all in the threads. ;)
-
ok, so i'm new to this whole buying sabers thing, i was wondering on the elder if you let it age is it going to eventually turn green the way the statue of liberty did?
-
ok, so i'm new to this whole buying sabers thing, i was wondering on the elder if you let it age is it going to eventually turn green the way the statue of liberty did?
Not unless you have it in a corrosive atmosphere.
Copper typically ages to a state called "Patina" where the metal darkens, and then eventually begins to Oxidize... I suppose if you left it in a humid environment with PH and temperature changes for long period, it would eventually start to oxidize and corrode. Causing the green color, but handling it will cause it to retain the brownish color for much longer because the acids in your skin will help keep the patina from forming to some extent.
-
Is it true that the sabers bend if on the standard stands you are given?
Are Horizontal stands a better investment?
-
I depends on the saber. Some do bend, just so slightly. i suggest a horizontal stand like the ones that pop up on Ebay. You can also use pool cue racks. My luke just stands in the corner, so it's never on the stand.
-
I am working on a project saber, and need to machine the blade holder. I ordered a 1" blade from TCSS and planned on measuring with the trusty dial caliper, them machining to fit.
The trouble is, I don't think my parts will arrive in time. And this Saturday is the only full day in the next few weeks I can spend in the machine shop.
What diameter should I make the blade holder to allow 1" blades to work properly?
Should I allow more, to accept Ultraedge blades in the future if so desired? I have read they tend to be a bit larger.
Thank you for any help.
-
I would make it just 1.001" at the most 1.002" You can always sand the blade or get a cyclinder hone to make it a little smaller.
-
So are the blades exactly 1.000?
If I am set up to do this operation in a lathe I would like to machine it and be done. And avoid buying a hone.
And if the Ultraedge blades are indeed larger than others I would like to make this saber compatible thereby making all 1" blades compatible. Correct?
-
So are the blades exactly 1.000?
If I am set up to do this operation in a lathe I would like to machine it and be done. And avoid buying a hone.
And if the Ultraedge blades are indeed larger than others I would like to make this saber compatible thereby making all 1" blades compatible. Correct?
UltraEdge Faq
The diameter is 1.009-1.011 inches
I found that in a sticky topic here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13825.0
-
Thanks for that. I have actually read that thread before, but I must not have made it to the bottom. ::)
Thank you both very much. Now maybe I can make some progress.
-
I have a silly question about speakers.
I've been trying to concept a saber utilizing LDMs "reverse" sound setup and I got to thinking, is it possible to wire 2 speakers to a soundboard?
As in, 1 could be in reverse setup (pointed out emitter) and the other in the pommel as normal. I have no clue if you can even do that. My guess would be "no", but it never hurts to ask (well...usually :D).
I'd try it myself, but I currently only have one speaker left and I don't want to possibly ruin it with an experiment.
-
I seem to recall someone over at TCSS? building a hilt with 2 speakers back to back in a holder. As I recall they were placed parallel with the hilt vs the usual 90 degree position. Holes were drilled around the hilt where the speakers were.
-
Thanks Luke. I'll have to snoop over at TCSS and see if I can find anything, although I doubt that kind of search would turn up anything easy with that forums search engine (no offence to TCSS).
My guess is that you would lose sound quality/volume with a double speaker setup, but how much? I might have a MR speaker lying in the parts box somewhere, and if it isn't broken maybe I'll give it a try. I doubt even if it worked well it'd be worth the hassle of using it in a hilt....but ya never know; you could make a pretty loud staff that way.
-
Wire the speakers in series and it should work....I'm actually thinking about trying this myself in BS-2 with the CF. Then, i mightbe able to use the board's full volume with no distortion.
-
Really DUMB question here,
I've seen others do it, but can you put the resistor on the negative side of the led instead of the postive?
-
;)
The answer would be yes.It does not matter. ;)
-
Would it b possible to glue a double AA battery holder, and a single AA battery holder together (back to back), splice the wires together, and run a MR ROTJ board and a Seoul P4? While using a set of three Energizer E2 lithiums?
1.5 times 3 only equals 4.5 but I still am not sure about wiring series series or parallel... Help is appreciated. ;D :D ;)
-
Is this for a custom saber?
Because you can go up to 6v on those boards, ......so you can use a 4 AAA battery pack, instead of 3 AA.
Or am I missing a point here?
-
The AA will run longer, or so I here. The Jedye_Calling was gonna run 4 AAA, but I am reconsidering. Using the E2's will let me recharge them, thus reducing the amount of cash needed for batteries.
-
The AA will run longer, or so I here. The Jedye_Calling was gonna run 4 AAA, but I am reconsidering. Using the E2's will let me recharge them, thus reducing the amount of cash needed for batteries.
Are you limited by space in the hilt making you want to use three AA's instead of four AAA's? Because it's no different voltage-wise of you used 4 AA's....four AAA's is equal to 6 volts, just like four AA's....and the AA's will run longer.
Are you sure the rechargeable energizer e2's are litium? I'm betting they aren't. They are most likely NiMH, and only 1.2v each, but I could be wrong.
-
I'm sorry Qui-gon, they are NiMH. So, I'd need 4 of them to run the board and LED properly. The lithium I was looking at are non-rechargeables.
The pipe in an 1/4 sinktube. I am mostly concerned with runtime. can it be done?
Thanks Qui-gon. ;D
-
Using 4-AA's in a 1 1/4" sinktube? sure it can be done...you just need the right type of battery holder:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-battery-holder--P134.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-battery-holder--P134.aspx)
I have used that one before in a 1 1/4" sinktube. It has a nice snug fit, and can recharge batteries as well, if you wire it to a recharge port....just make sure you use a slow charge setting on your charger.
-
if i polished my blade with a sand paper would i get a more even brightness through the blade?
-
if i polished my blade with a sand paper would i get a more even brightness through the blade?
Short answer:
Yes
-
if i polished my blade with a sand paper would i get a more even brightness through the blade?
Short answer:
Yes
short gratitude:
Thx..
-
o yeah.. where would i get a step by step instruction for makin' a DIY conversion kit (atleast the lux. construction guide)? coz i'm dying to make a dueling saber out of my luke..
-
Does anyone know the date when the new Count Dooku and Obi Wan TPM Fx Lightsabers will be available for purchase? I would like to do a review on them a.s.a.p. I have been waiting for these sabers to come out for months.
-
Well the one site I've seen that had any reference to dates for them said March 31st then the day of changed it to June 30th. They are probably making a guesstimate so who knows when they will actually be released. No official nod that I know of from Hasbro yet.
-
Ok, I've looked all over & I can't find the answer I need, but I figure this is the right topic to ask. I have 4 of the old "cheap" hasbro sabers and I want to use the boards for lux 3 projects. What is the best way to wire it?
-
Ok, I've looked all over & I can't find the answer I need, but I figure this is the right topic to ask. I have 4 of the old "cheap" hasbro sabers and I want to use the boards for lux 3 projects. What is the best way to wire it?
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=17128.0
There are several different makes/model of these cheap Hasbro boards, so when you start, be sure to notate these things if you want quicker help:
WHICH saber it came from, "Luke ROTJ, Mace, Vader, etc"
What YEAR the saber was made, assuming the copyright is an indicator
What TYPE of Batteries were used in the toy, (2 C-cell or AA)
Pictures, snap a picture of your board, ....a nice clear BIG picture.
-
Thanks for the link DC! I can't believe it was under my nose after WEEKS of looking. re-evaluate my search method, I will. BTW, they are all 2001, 2 c cell, and I have Luke, Anikin, Vader, & Dooku.
-
Well, I think your sound boards will look slightly different than what Skytracker has in his link, so when you take it all apart, carefully spread out the wires/clash sensor, etc and take a few good pictures, I, or someone else will be happy to photoshop up a nifty little diagram of what goes where.
-
I appreciate that DC. The only problem is the only camera I have access to right now is my mom's and she lives 2 hours away. As soon as I can take pics, can I PM you or something?
-
Sure, no problem.
-
Anything I can use to get rid of that annoying sticky stuff left behind by the instruction stickers they put on the hilt? My Anakin ROTS has a huuge sticky mark near the rubber grips (where the "unscrew blah blah blah" sticker was)
Help is much appreciated
-
Anything I can use to get rid of that annoying sticky stuff left behind by the instruction stickers they put on the hilt? My Anakin ROTS has a huuge sticky mark near the rubber grips (where the "unscrew blah blah blah" sticker was)
Help is much appreciated
Goo Gone one a rag, not a paper towel, on a rag, gently rub until sticky is gone.
-
Be careful with what you use Goo Gone on.
I've used it a couple of times and it does it's job well. But it's been known to take off paint.
Just giving you a heads up. :)
-
Anything I can use to get rid of that annoying sticky stuff left behind by the instruction stickers they put on the hilt? My Anakin ROTS has a huuge sticky mark near the rubber grips (where the "unscrew blah blah blah" sticker was)
Help is much appreciated
Goo Gone one a rag, not a paper towel, on a rag, gently rub until sticky is gone.
Thanks for the help. I got it off anyway just using bare hands and a slightly damp cloth ;)
-
I'm aware that this topic was posted in January of this year, so hopefully I'm not posting too late...let me know if I am! Some questions I didn't find answered on your awesome guide, Darth Tyrranus are:
The basics of "digital logic." Okay, I know practically nothing about watts, connectors, electrical waves, power, balances, et cetera ;D. But I want to learn! Especially in the area of saber-building :). So, I know that this is a huge task (if somebody else could help explain things to me in this thread or another thread or PM me, that would work too! :D) but I thought I'd post all my questions in here :-).
1. Batteries to soundboard
Okay...so how many batteries does it take to power a Crystal Focus? Or an MR soundboard? Or do you measure that a different way?
2. Power to LED (Luxeon or other)
How do I know how much power it needs and how to fix it so it has that much power? Say I was using a Luxeon V (I think that's the brightest...right?), how much power would it require?
Any digital logic help would be great!
Also:
1. How do you install a Luxeon in a hilt of normal size to fit a Luxeon?
2. When you are using parts from the TCSS, how do all of these parts connect together in a firm way?
3. What is the best way (other then welding) to connect a metal part to another part?
4. The blade, when I put a blade in and tighten the retaining screw, will it stay tightened for dueling? I find it annoying to have to constantly tighten the screw because the blade gets loose.
5. If I'm looking for a nice, even blade that's bright, what should I go for? I don't want EL or a LED strip, so a Luxeon would be ideal...but what makes best for a bright, fairly even blade?
6. I hear talk of all these various blades, corbin film, ultra-edge, polyphane wrap, et cetera. What, in your opinion, produces the best effect, do you have a picture, and why?
I have searched the forums for answers to these but I could easily have missed something :).
-
These questions are not answered here because each of them have their own dedicated topic/topics.
Especially the blade questions, which is really a matter of opinion.
This is the basics. I suggest that once you pick an actual soundboard, you search the forums on the tutorials or topics of that related board. Nearly all sound boards have multiple topics related to them. You're just gonna have to search, if you get stumped on something a little more specific pertaining to an individual sound board, then ask.
-
This topic isn't for asking those kinds of questions, it's a suggestion topic for people that are getting into building sabers themselves, from people that already do it. Kind of a "here's what I did, don't do it" kind of thing.....so that DT could include them in his "Guide for new DIY Sabersmiths" topic.
As Darth_Call said, all of your questions have been asked and answered on the forums already.
-
You will find that people don't mind helping, if you help yourself first. For the TCSS related questions, search on TCSS. For the rest, there is tons of information on both forums, including wiring diagrams for most of the boards, voltage requirements so you can figure out the batteries, if you have absolutely no understanding of basic electronics then a simple diy electronics book would be a lot of help as well. Once you have read everything you can and are actually building a saber, if something you are unable to find by searching comes up, any of us here would be more than happy to help ;)
-
Thanks Allaerra! I have been searching through the forums but must have been hitting the wrong threads :) sorry for Spamming this thread, I misassumed the topic of it! I'll see if I can find some other stuff, thanks for the help!
-
*sheepishly replies to his own message* ;D
I still am not having very much luck on finding the answers to my questions. I've run several searches, read dozens of posts but I still don't seem to be finding anything. Could one of you direct me to threads that answer my questions? I just haven't been able to find anything, I've learned a little about color in the Luxeons (Bin numbers) and from watching Master Qui-Gon build his latest saber, I've learned some techniques for "Dremmel" planning. However, I still don't seem to be hitting the wright threads :-\. Some direction would really help!
-
I moved your questions to a more appropriate topic....and sent you a pm with a few answeres. You still need to some more reading. The area to look in is the Luxeon LED Sabers and the Saber Modifications and Customs section....just look through the topic titles and see if any of them look like they may answer your questions. Start with the sticked topics.
Ther are also a few things to read at TCSS:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35)
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=108682&posted=1#post108682 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=108682&posted=1#post108682)
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6524 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6524)
This might help also:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=553 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=553)
-
odd question has ultra sabers ever considered making a suggestion thread? also has ultra sabers ever considered having the option subcription to updated via email like if something new became avilable an automatic message would be sent to let people know etc
-
Ahh I missed this!
Qui-Gon, those links are simply and utterly AMAZING! Thank you SO much, that's a plethora of information at my fingertips!
-
I'm guessing this is where my question goes... Not wanting to pm the moderators with such a wierd request, cause I'm sure that they get a ton as is... are personal services allowed to be offered here at fx-sabers?
Many on this forum are, of course, Jedi/Sith/Lightsaber/StarWars afficianados, and wanted to offer my services to people here my skills as an Illustrator.
I do Cartoon and Comic Book/Graphic Novel type illustrations, and know that as many of us wish and dream of what it would be like to actually enter the world of Star Wars weilding our trusted lightsabers into battle... sometimes role playing and dueling isn't enough.
Capturing a member's likeness in the form of an illustration (Cartoon or Graphic Novel/Comic Book styled) with them in a Jedi/Sith costume of their own design, of course, with their own custom designed lightsaber...
Seeing if it would be ok to seek out people's interest to have custom commissioned illustrations done here at fx-sabers.
With your permission I would like to post this on this forum.
A Traditional Animator for the last couple of years, and a Star Wars fan since I was almost a year old (the 1977 came out when I was almost one)... I've spent the last couple of decades dreaming in the world of Star Wars, as I am sure many of us here have too. Character Designing, Illustrating, and my Star Wars Obsessing,.... mix it all together, and here is what you've got... a fellow SW brother who loves to draw the world of Star Wars.
Because it is commissioned work, I don't want to do so without your permission, and I don't want to sound like an opportunist. The world of Star Wars collecting and hobbying is an expensive one and my wife already yells at me for how much I've collected up t othis point. In this trying economy (I live in Detroit, too), any extra money is appreciated... and as a new father to be (9 weeks to go...and I know this is turning into a sob story...sorry about that)... trying to see where I can get extra free lance work.
I'll hold off posting more info like my online portfolio and other links to my artwork and such till I'm granted permission to do so, and I hope that this question is ok to ask...
Didn't know where on the forums to ask this so I'm posting it here
Thanks and I think you guys to awesome stuff at fx-sabers,
Jedi Yar Nala
-
I'd do a website first and post your portfolio online there.
Then in your sig, you can post a brief advertisement and a link to your website.
Those interested will click on the link, check out your portfolio, and contact you if interested.
On this site, I think it'd be kosher to post some of your work in the member artwork area.
Just start a thread with the title of the piece and share the story behind the work. Don't forget pics! ;)
And based on the number of replies to your thread, you'll have a pretty good estimate as to what interest might be.
If anyone expresses interest, you can send them a PM (personal message).
I'd say this is the most professional and discreet way to do business.
I, for one, am interested in seeing what you've done. 8)
Welcome to the Forum, and MTFBWY!
-
I'd do a website first and post your portfolio online there.
Then in your sig, you can post a brief advertisement and a link to your website.
Those interested will click on the link, check out your portfolio, and contact you if interested.
Actually no, he cannot post a link in his sig area...that's a violation of the rules and regulations of the forums. The only links allowed in sig area for regular members are to topics on the site only.
On this site, I think it'd be kosher to post some of your work in the member artwork area.
Just start a thread with the title of the piece and share the story behind the work. Don't forget pics!
And based on the number of replies to your thread, you'll have a pretty good estimate as to what interest might be.
If anyone expresses interest, you can send them a PM (personal message).
This is a better idea actually.
Jedi Yar Nala, Welcome to FX-Sabers!
There are limits on offering sales, services, or trades on these forums, and those can be found here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=8632.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=8632.0)
We look forward to seeing some examples of your work, and hope you enjoy your time here on FX-Sabers.
In this trying economy (I live in Detroit, too), any extra money is appreciated... and as a new father to be (9 weeks to go...and I know this is turning into a sob story...sorry about that)... trying to see where I can get extra free lance work.
Yeah, I know all about the economy here in Michigan....I'm in St. Johns.
-
Can i safely run 4 AAA NIMH batteries ot a Luke ROTJ board hooked to a U-bin P4? I just realized those alkaline AAA's have crappy run time.
I looked, but I see most people merely post 4 AAA. Or in DT/Jango's case, they use a custom NiMH 3 AAA batteries.
-
Can i safely run 4 AAA NIMH batteries ot a Luke ROTJ board hooked to a U-bin P4? I just realized those alkaline AAA's have crappy run time.
I looked, but I see most people merely post 4 AAA. Or in DT/Jango's case, they use a custom NiMH 3 AAA batteries.
It Should not be a problem.
-
Alright...I just broke my soldering iron and am about to turn to the Dark Side of the Force...
I'm an electronics novice and am getting really frustrated soldering and unsoldering wires to test and see if they work.
1. Is there a better method to temporarily connect my wires?
2. I have an LED, a soundboard, and a DPDT switch (6-pins). Two wires coming from off the LED, 3 from off the board. Where do they go?
Quick help would be really nice. Thanks in advance!
Oh, and...
Actually no, he cannot post a link in his sig area...that's a violation of the rules and regulations of the forums. The only links allowed in sig area for regular members are to topics on the site only.
My bad. I've seen others do it, so I just assumed it was okay.
Please forgive my ignorance. :-[
-
My bad. I've seen others do it, so I just assumed it was okay.
Please forgive my ignorance.
The only people that are allowed to have a link in their sig that goes to an offsite location are the Administrators, Moderators, and Manufacturers. Anyone one esle with a link intheir sig that goes to an off-site location will be asked to have it removed, or we'll do it for them.
As for the rest of your questions:
1. To temporarily attach wires for testing, I just twist and tape 'em.
2. What soundboard are you using? Why are you using a DPDT switch? More info and maybe pictures woud be helpful....
-
There is also a gummy-type glue that you can use... However it is very messy, and you have to make absolutely CERTAIN that you clean it all off before soldering...
OR
Just get some alligator clip test leads...
-
2. What soundboard are you using? Why are you using a DPDT switch? More info and maybe pictures woud be helpful....
Same old problem...http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=16413.15 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=16413.15)
I just don't know which pins to attach the wires to--because 5 wires and 6 pins.
Thanks again, Master Qui-Gon. You're probably as sick of this board as I am. :P
Just get some alligator clip test leads...
Thanks, DT. I had seen some mini's, but weren't sure if they'd work or not. I'll pick some up tomorrow.
-
For testing purposes, ...Im making a few leads with clips on each side, enough to fully work a sound board, ...sorta like a breadbox kit. I keep a 2 AA battery pack "loaded" on my desk to test LEDs and stuff too.
-
Great advice, thanks. I'll be posting info up as you suggested :)
-
alright...need a bit of help as to where the member artwork area is...
I saw posts of people's props, their sabers...but haven't found the artwork area.
Please help!
Thanks again Jasher Kain
-
I would say the forum gallery where all pictures of any type typically go. There isn't a specific place for artwork that I'm aware of.
Also try not to double post in the same thread one right after the other. You can post multiple times in one thread, but when they are right there by each other its easiest just to modify your other post to add a further message.
-
Before I forget...thanks to you too Qui-Gon Jinn... and Darth Gius
Trying to do this the right way, so I'm trying to follow all of your advice
-
Its not a problem at all. It takes a little bit to learn all the ins and outs of the forum before you'll have it all down. Just pointing it out for future reference :)
-
I would say the forum gallery where all pictures of any type typically go. There isn't a specific place for artwork that I'm aware of.
Also try not to double post in the same thread one right after the other. You can post multiple times in one thread, but when they are right there by each other its easiest just to modify your other post to add a further message.
I think it would go here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=82.0
-
Thanks Darth_Call
I posted it in that forum as you suggested, but having the hardest time attaching a jpeg to it. I attached a link so that people can go to it, but would I would have rather post it with the description.
-
would I would..... forgive my typos.
-
Cool, ...no problem, .......I suggest photobucket, they have the "img thumnail" option that is pretty cool
or follow this link that Lord Tyranus made, ......the principle is the same.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=11435.0
EDIT:
:o :o
and see that lil' button next to your post that says "modify", you can use it to edit your post to fix your spelling and prevent any "double posting", .......cool features! ;) ;D ;D
and UNLIMITED SMILIES!!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
-
Jedi Yar Nala please refrain from double posting and use the modify button.
Please use a photo hosting service to post your pics. Here is a tutorial on how to load the properly
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=11435.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=11435.0)
-
Sorry Jango Fett... didn't mean to double post. Trying to follow the instructions,... so far no luck. Trying ot modify as we speak
-
Got it to work....check it out and feel free to comment about it :)
And thanks guys :)
-
*AHEM* The "Modify" button is located in the upper right hand corner of every post, use it. /\/\/\ **Up THERE next to "Quote"** | | |
How's that for a comment? ;D
-
thanks tyranus, found the modify button :)
-
Real quick:
Obi-Wan MR board...4-AAA
blue wires to the switch, black and red to the battery, brown to the speaker, grey LED wire to the LED+, colored LED wires to the LED-
If wired correctly, why isn't it lighting up?
-
To all who helped me... I got it to work. My stuff is now posted in the gallery section, and am constantly adding and "modifying" it.
Thanks to all who helped me. Hopefully I'll generate some interest in my art here.
You guys are great and really helpful to us rookie padawans.
-
Real quick:
Obi-Wan MR board...4-AAA
blue wires to the switch, black and red to the battery, brown to the speaker, grey LED wire to the LED+, colored LED wires to the LED-
If wired correctly, why isn't it lighting up?
If that's that how you wired it, ....it should also be getting pretty warm!
The wire next to the "grey" wire, (it should be dark blue, may be purple), ........that one should be twisted in with the positive .
So basically, .....the clash sensor AND the wire next it should be positive.
BTW, MR did not ALWAYS use the same colors in their wiring, ...so u may need to provide pictures.
Also, ...u do know that the red is battery AND speaker positive right?
Here is a diagram I made a while back, it's a vader board, ....but they are pretty much the same. Take it, ...its free. ;D
Click for SUPA-SIZE!!
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2Fsound%2520boards%2Fth_VaderBoard.jpg&hash=e855e081fe496685784e43ee4b9e5052447a799d) (http://s528.photobucket.com/albums/dd328/darth_call/sound%20boards/?action=view¤t=VaderBoard.jpg)
-
If that's that how you wired it, ....it should also be getting pretty warm!
It did... :P I popped out the batteries real quick. :-*
The wire next to the "grey" wire, (it should be dark blue, may be purple), ........that one should be twisted in with the positive .
So basically, .....the clash sensor AND the wire next it should be positive.
Noted. I'll need to fix that.
Also, ...u do know that the red is battery AND speaker positive right?
I didn't...so I'll need to splice it and remember which speaker wire was positive and which was negative. :P
Here is a diagram I made a while back, it's a vader board, ....but they are pretty much the same. Take it, ...its free. ;D
Click for SUPA-SIZE!!
I owe ya a free image...super-sized. ;D
Thanks again, Darth Call. Solved all my problems. If it lights up, you'll be seeing a new thread. ;) 8)
-
Also, ...u do know that the red is battery AND speaker positive right?
I didn't...so I'll need to splice it and remember which speaker wire was positive and which was negative. :P
Yes and no.
Yes, ...you need to splice it, ...but really, the speaker, just like the switch, doesn't really care, (to an extent), where you solder that positive wire to , ...as long as it is to a pad.
They are pretty much interchangeable or reversible.
Best of luck, ...hope to see that new thread up soon!
-
:'( No dice...
Here are the pics:
LED wires...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi294.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm92%2Fjasher46%2FSentinel%2FDSC06896.jpg&hash=ee4bab3d21fab8cec245542d48e40020fccbe8bb) (http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm92/jasher46/Sentinel/DSC06896.jpg)
& battery/speaker/switch wires...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi294.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm92%2Fjasher46%2FSentinel%2FDSC06897.jpg&hash=d27c7764ecaf3359494b9fc2aef9a7a66d32261a) (http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm92/jasher46/Sentinel/DSC06897.jpg)
What's wrong? ??? My switch is a latching SPST...dunno if that makes a difference. :-\
-
What's wrong? ??? My switch is a latching SPST...dunno if that makes a difference. :-\
I noticed there were no batteries in the pack! ;D ;D ;D
Just kidding.
Where is the clash sensor, ..I notice it is missing.
When u turn it on, ...is the speaker working, or is this board doing nothing?
SPST Latching is the correct switch, ...so u are good there.
Either way, it's hard to troubleshoot with the heat shrink on it. I think you may have to snip it all and re-do.
Here are some suggestions:
1. Cut off that QD on the switch and rub the wires together, ...see if perhaps that QD is faulty
2. Replace the battery pack, ....I have on several occasions bought packs that were faulty.
3. Add a little extra wire to that setup so u have some wiggle room.
4. It's a little hard to tell from here, ...but SP- sorta looks like the pad is gone or severally damaged.
Your pictures are pretty clear, (better than I usually do).
;)
EDIT: STARING REALLY hard at the connections to the battery pack, ....are u sure those made good connections? It's possible that the positive Battery Lead is damaged.
-
4. It's a little hard to tell from here, ...but SP- sorta looks like the pad is gone or severally damaged.
I'm gonna start all over on Wednesday, but if the SP- pad is damaged (a little bit of copper is showing), how do I go about fixing it?
-
As long as the circular pad is still there u should be OK.
You can "carefully" remove any wire and drop a TINY bit of solder on the pad/hole.
After u add your new wire to it and everything is working, go ahead and add a bead of high temp hot glue to board and wires to keep the tension off the wire.
-
Here is something for your thinking cap. I'm attempting to wire up four LED's of two different wirings together. Attached is a picture of what I'm doing. It will be two 1W blues and two 1W reds, all Luxeon stars.
I'm putting this together to run off of 14.4v DC voltage, on a semi Truck. I'm wiring them in series and adding up the voltages on the LEDs for a direct drive attempt.
Here's is my question, Can I run the four of these direct drive off of 14.4v or will I need a resistor on the chain somewhere in order to prevent over powering the Red Lux 1w's?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FTruckwiring.jpg&hash=1c54d48fe0ac1a1e62d7c7a452b81e426a5a9e36)
-
You need to regulate that voltage...
You are going to literally FRY that blue
14.4 into a 3.5V MAXIMUM LED is not a good thing.
You need to install a buck driver and wire in a series/parallel configuration.
-
In my own car I have four Lux 1W whites running direct drive, no buck puck, wired in Series? They've been like that for quite a while???
Please don't take this as me arguing or disagreeing. I am just trying to understand.
As your recommendation, would I need a 700ma buck puck or a 350ma buck puck. I understand the wiring in series, could you modify my diagram to show how these "Should" be wired up?
Here's a new diagram that kind of shows all the wiring on doing on the semi Truck:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm357%2Fbjall4jc%2FTruckwiring-All.jpg&hash=d6882121e657fd6b4c7374ae7b3511caf20f7c6a)
-
Hello all..I'm new and today is day ONE for me. I am trying to learn all the ins and outs of this forum and sabers in general....but there doesn't seem to be a n00b page that explains the glossary of items, etc etc. I currently own three Parks Sabers and a Mace Windu ForceFX (stock outta the box). I also ordered a Catalyst Saber from Ultrasbers.com because it has a soundboard..something my Parks will never seem to have....
My main questions are....
1. are the crystal core saber hilts able to have blades AND soundboards in them? The Grafelx Armory shows a pic of the interior of one but doesn't have enough "Specs" listed, and no info on where to get them.
2. Can a fully assembled one be bought or a relatively easy DIY kit?
3. Is there a central info point that gives us the info about these sabers/sales/availability..I've found a lot of info scattered around via searching the forums via keyword search but again, I was looking for a "one page" location
4. What is the air speed velocity of an unladen swallow? (j/k)
5. Why are the CF boards superior to Ultrasounds?
Thanks
Ken
-
Hello all..I'm new and today is day ONE for me. I am trying to learn all the ins and outs of this forum and sabers in general....but there doesn't seem to be a n00b page that explains the glossary of items, etc etc. I currently own three Parks Sabers and a Mace Windu ForceFX (stock outta the box). I also ordered a Catalyst Saber from Ultrasbers.com because it has a soundboard..something my Parks will never seem to have....
My main questions are....
1. are the crystal core saber hilts able to have blades AND soundboards in them? The Grafelx Armory shows a pic of the interior of one but doesn't have enough "Specs" listed, and no info on where to get them.
2. Can a fully assembled one be bought or a relatively easy DIY kit?
3. Is there a central info point that gives us the info about these sabers/sales/availability..I've found a lot of info scattered around via searching the forums via keyword search but again, I was looking for a "one page" location
4. What is the air speed velocity of an unladen swallow? (j/k)
5. Why are the CF boards superior to Ultrasounds?
Thanks
Ken
1. Yes, they have both blade and sound.
2. Their are threads here to request your name be put on the list for both the completed hilt as well as the DIY Kit
3. No, not really, that is why the forums are here, so much info, .....toooo much info to be on just one page
4. 11 meters per second, assuming they flap their wings at 15 beats a second, though new studies show that they actually flapp their wings much less, ....around only 7–9 beats per second, which would lessen the distance to appromiately 7-9 meters a second. These were the results of testing on a European unladen swallow with body masses around 20 grams.
5. CF boards are much more customizable.
The majority of these answers to your questions, except #4 ARE here, just take your time and start reading.
-
Thank you so much!!! And I should have specified the difference between and African or European swallow...lol!
The only other question I had (and I asked someplace else as well) is if the Crystal Core Chamber will fit into a standard MHS hilt...I'm not too keen on the Graflex sabers (OMG!! Heresy!!!! He said he didn't like Graflex!!! Stone him!!! Be gone with him!!!)
K ;-)
-
Thank you so much!!! And i should have specified the difference between and Africin or European swallow...lol!
The only other question I had (and I asked someplace else as well) is if the Crystal Core Chamber will fit into a standard MHS hilt...I'm not too keen on the Graflex sabers (OMG!! Heresy!!!! he said he didn't like Graflex!!! Stone him!!! be gone with him!!!)
K ;-)
The crystal core chassis was designed to fit a graflex, it will not fit a MHS based saber. You can design a saber around the chassis, or build your own chassis to fit a specified hilt.
-
ok, my CF speaker is so loud, the thing "overdriven" and sounds really bad and hard to understand. How do I fix it?
-
There is a small device called a potentiometer, or pot on the board....you'll have to access the part of the saber where the board is contained and using a small, precision phillips screwdriver, turn it to the left and it will turn the volume down. It is covered in a section of the manual for the 2.61+ manual here:
https://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/CrystalFocusSaberCoreV2.61-GB.pdf
The volume instructions are on page 16 of the manual.
-
Hmm Im thinking Ive got a loose wire because its gotten worse and cutting out. Vosk can confirm it.
-
It could also be a failing speaker, these things happen. I've recently had several "premium" speakers go out, or fizzle out for no reason.
Either way, bad speaker or loose wire, .....its gonna need to be looked at.
-
Great and its my DoClo Solara saber that arrived just yesterday :(
-
Well, assuming it is just the speaker or loose wire, the turn around time for repair shouldn't be to bad, (minus the travel time of course). Hopefully it is just a faulty wire issue or failed speaker.
-
Well until I have the funds for repair shipping Im gonna see what the damage is and attempt repair...
-
;)
I can tell you if it is the speaker,it's a simple fix. 8)
-
Okay, new question (and it's an easy one ::)):
Anyone ever work with this MHS part before?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi294.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm92%2Fjasher46%2FWorkshop%2FDSC07177.jpg&hash=db52c7438e951adcfa2e9028fb301b825dc046cf) (http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm92/jasher46/Workshop/DSC07177.jpg)
It's the slotted section that comes with metal grips to fit in the slots.
Now the difficult question:
If I drilled sound holes under the grips, once the grips were put on, could the sound still be heard?
-
yes, ...it will be sorta muffled, but will work.
-
I'm no expert, avarice, or Padawan here (meaning I'm really low down ;D) but from the limited things I know, it will work, be muffled and not quite as clear. Most speakers have a resonance chamber...having holes through a grip would not work with a resonance chamber very well, so you'll loose that extra clarity and sound strength.
-
The reason I ask is because I'm debating which pommel to use.
I like doing spins with my left hand on the pommel, so I prefer rounded pommels like Obi-Wan's TPM/AOTC or my personal custom. 8)
The original saber design was to use TCSS Pommel #2 in order to keep the saber under 12". But I got a hold of an old Pommel #6 (thanks LDM!) that's completely rounded: no sound holes in the bottom. I prefer the look of the rounded pommel to the flat. BUT, because it lacks sound holes, I had to ask about sound holes under the grips... :-\
My other option, then, is to use the new Pommel #6...only I've never seen one on a saber. Anyone got any pics? vids?
-
I am sure this is a basic padawan question but here its goes anyway! When I first joined and would log in to the forum on the top left it would show my profile picture and how many posts i had and under that was a two links for replys to my posts and something else. im not sure if i changed something in my settings or what but would like to get it back if possible! thanks to everyone for the greatest forum ever!!
-
I am sure this is a basic padawan question but here its goes anyway! When I first joined and would log in to the forum on the top left it would show my profile picture and how many posts i had and under that was a two links for replys to my posts and something else. im not sure if i changed something in my settings or what but would like to get it back if possible! thanks to everyone for the greatest forum ever!!
Here's what I've got:
Hey, Jasher Kain, you have 40 messages, 0 are new.
Total time logged in: 8 days, 7 hours and 27 minutes.
Show unread posts since last visit.
Show new replies to your posts.
Yours doesn't show this?
-
No Jasher its not there anymore. :( i keep searching my profile setting to see if i unclicked something but i used both of those links often! ???bummer man
-
Check the "Look and Layout Preferences" of your Profile.
Nothing should be checked off. If anything is, that might be the problem.
-
Thanks for all the help Jasher. Still no luck! i tried logging out, unchecking everything, and checking everything with no luck. I guess im going to add a PM to one of the mods full boxes!!
-
Hon_Rev, click that triangle/arrow icon to the left of the Home button. It's pointing down for you right now; when you click it, it will point up. You probably just hit it by accident at some point. That should restore everything. ;)
-
Hon_Rev, click that triangle/arrow icon to the left of the Home button. It's pointing down for you right now; when you click it, it will point up. You probably just hit it by accident at some point. That should restore everything. ;)
Cool. 8) Learn something new everyday.
:)*Friendly Reminder* :)
I did ask about TCSS MHS Pommel #6...the new version. Anybody ever used it?
Pics? Vids? Reviews? ;D
-
Thank you Master Obi-Wan, it worked!! I thought I had tried everything but it was right in front of my eyes! Haha so funny!:)
-
Glad to help! 8)
-
I got a question:
Will any MHS pommel screw into this sinktube http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-14-x-12-Chrome-sink-tube--P83.aspx ?
-
I got a question:
Will any MHS pommel screw into this sinktube http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-14-x-12-Chrome-sink-tube--P83.aspx ?
No, ....Pommels are smaller with male threaded ends. That tube is too big and also has a male threaded end
-
:P dang
Is there any way to somehow get a pommel to fit?
-
You'll need the female MHS to sink tube adapter:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-to-125-sink-tube-adapter-P396.aspx
-
so that piece will screw into the sinktube I mentioned and will allow me to put in pommels?
-
not screw into it, ...it will slide into the skinny part of the tube.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2FPicture_166.jpg&hash=cb25c371a933e4ff00008897c20bffad66697e4a)
-
what's preventing it from falling out, if you just slide it in ???
-
My guess would be to use a few screws
(https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/593_t.jpg)
-
I can't figure out how to change the batteries in my saberforge saber... Not sure why this always happens to me... But it's the Regal, all one piece, but the pomel looks like a separate piece. I'm not sure how to remove it, if that's how, and I've tried to pull it off but it's smooth...
-
Send SaberForge a PM and ask, ...or you post pictures or a link t0o the saber.
I kinda suspect that their would be a set screw somewhere to release the pommel, .....if that is indeed how the batteries get replaced
-
Yeah, as was my luck, I figured it out right after I left the house. xP
It was a set screw alright. xP I didn't realize it because it was so deep in..
Thanks. :D
-
Okay...new question.
MR Vader ESB soundboard: the clash sensor has a 4-pin hook-up...
Could I hook up a 2-pin clash sensor and have it work?
I mean, does it really matter how many pins?
-
I am working on this cool new bubble strip for my graflex, which I will post pics when Im done, and cant find that alphabet in my SW encyclopedia! I searched through all three books but cant remember what it is called. ???Any help would be great! I want to spell out SAVIOR or something along that line.
-
I believe the type font you're looking for is called Aurebesh (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Aurebesh).
Here's a place where you can download the actual type font as well: http://www.echostation.com/features/aurebesh.htm (http://www.echostation.com/features/aurebesh.htm)
-
Thank you Master Qui-Gon, you are correct and saved me some time!
-
Would a MR or Hasbro sound board be able to be installed in like a Dark Apprentice from Ultra Sabers? (http://www.ultrasabers.com/Dark_Initiate_p/uk-dana.htm (http://www.ultrasabers.com/Dark_Initiate_p/uk-dana.htm))
I believe the Yoda's are the smallest. Just wounding if it's possible. Thanks
-
It can be done, but it's more hassle than it's worth, IMO. Doing so would void the Ultrasabers warranty on the saber as well.
-
MR Vader ESB soundboard: the clash sensor has a 4-pin hook-up...
Could I hook up a 2-pin clash sensor and have it work?
I mean, does it really matter how many pins?
Any takers? Anyone who can answer this question? Anyone? Anyone?
-
You'd have to refresh my memory with a picture, been a while since I have seen these. Is this the same board that has the 4 wires for the switch as well?
-
Two wires for the switch.
Pictures! I'll get 'em up in a sec...
EDIT:
Here's the MR ESB Vader board with the clash sensor I'd like to use (MR Anakin AOTC):
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi294.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm92%2Fjasher46%2FWorkshop%2FDSC07323.jpg&hash=dd0252484dbb699ac74f0f26378c256148b8c522) (http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm92/jasher46/Workshop/DSC07323.jpg)
Note the 4-pin box (although, come to think of it, the other 2 pins might be for the motion sensor...)
-
Two of the pins in that white box are for the motion sensor...if you don't have that, you won't get the swing sounds. you can use the clash, but you'll just have to figure out which pins do what.
EDIT:
Did you pull that from the Vader ESB yourself, or did you buy that loose? It looks an awful lot like a Luke ROTJ soundboard to me:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FWiring%2520Diagrams%2Flukesoundwiring.jpg&hash=84696d3056be3ba0eccf718e4b64392327d8303d) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Wiring%20Diagrams/lukesoundwiring.jpg)
-
I got it from someone else...I just assumed it was from a Vader...hmm...
-
Well, the date code on the board matches the ones on the boards I used in the Brass Sabers last summer...I think you have a Luke ROTJ there, and NO motion sensors....
-
Well...if that's the case, than I know what to do:
Use the 2-pin clash sensor I have and pull a motion sensor from a Hasbro telescoping lightsaber. ;)
Thanks again, Master Qui-Gon. ;)
-
Just wondering if anyone out there knows the manufacturer of this Obi Wan hilt. Pics are clickable...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi376.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo203%2Ffoyt21%2Fth_S8000781.jpg&hash=dc3e744e3ed55cffd4941ddf06ae8567df75c673) (http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/foyt21/?action=view¤t=S8000781.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi376.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo203%2Ffoyt21%2Fth_S8000788.jpg&hash=1cd467f03201402adac5afa42a38cc6e2e71736d) (http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/foyt21/?action=view¤t=S8000788.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi376.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo203%2Ffoyt21%2Fth_S8000784.jpg&hash=f8ac30676b06a5746f98924ef77d510e3492634d) (http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/foyt21/?action=view¤t=S8000784.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi376.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo203%2Ffoyt21%2Fth_S8000789.jpg&hash=123b7aaacf2050856622bc45c71304c5d814be5f) (http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/foyt21/?action=view¤t=S8000789.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi376.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo203%2Ffoyt21%2Fth_S8000787.jpg&hash=059ef906df53d60475878a6cbc474cda5402d8db) (http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/foyt21/?action=view¤t=S8000787.jpg)
-
Is this the one you brought when we met up? If so, I think it's an MR.
-
It is that same one. But the guy I got it from said it wasnt MR, which is why I'm checking here.
-
That doesn't really look like any I've seen.,
I believe Parks had a more conical pommel
MR series should be labeled on the pommel in white lettering.
The only Larbel TPMs I have ever seen were the style-O series, ....but I suspect nearly all his pommels were 3 piece.
No clue, sorry
-
As Chewie said, it doesn't look like a Larbel, or an MR, or a Parks... the only other I can thing of is the Acerocket version but the pommel was better and the saber was more screen accurate... perhaps it's custom machined?
-
I've owned both a Larbel and a Parks, and I know it's neither.
It's AOTC style which is why I guess MR...
-
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm planning on offering this up for sale but now I dont know how much to ask for it. Was trying to find out the manufacturer to try and figure out a good price... Hmm, what to do, what to do? :-\
-
I've looked through every source of a obi-wan tpm/aotc prop that I know of and it doesn't match any of them I've seen. Sorry couldn't be of more help. It does look pretty good though I'll have to say. I think you should be able to fetch a good price for it.
-
Hmm, what to do, what to do? :-\
Give it to LDM to bore out and put sound in. :D ;D
-
Hmm, what to do, what to do? :-\
Give it to LDM to bore out and put sound in. :D ;D
Funnily enough, that was my first thought when I first got it... ;D
-
*cough* Dont laugh. Uhm what can be used as a temp. recharge port plug and where can I find replacements?
-
*cough* Dont laugh. Uhm what can be used as a temp. recharge port plug and where can I find replacements?
Look around for some Ink Pens, ...sometimes u can find a tip that will fit, (thanks XsaberX), ....In the meantime, unplug your charger and place the 2.1mm adapter in there. It'll stop the batteries from draining.
I JUST made some kill keys, ....shoot me a PM, I'll send u a few.
-
Cool! Thanks Fuzzball hehe I seem to have misplaced the plug for my DoClo...
-
When u said, "Don't laugh", ...I figured it was better NOT to ask!
-
Dont laugh as in I already lost a part for my Solara lol PM, Chewie!
-
I'f im not mistaken, that blue jewel and the covertec knob are a dead giveaway, that this saber used to be mine at one point, this was comissioned by a machinist in England who goes by the name Generation Sabers.
-
*cough* Dont laugh. Uhm what can be used as a temp. recharge port plug and where can I find replacements?
You could get a dywall anchor from the hardware store to use for that Shaak...it'l require some very slight modification, but it'll work, and are usually sold one at a time for avbout $ 0.08 each. All of my sabers with recharge ports ome with one.
-
Just wondering if anyone out there knows the manufacturer of this Obi Wan hilt. Pics are clickable...
FYI...the one on the right looks similar to yours...
http://www.pangilinan.net/starwars/ (http://www.pangilinan.net/starwars/)
-
New question:
Do the Hasbro toy sabers with spring action blades have motion and clash sensors?
-
New question:
Do the Hasbro toy sabers with spring action blades have motion and clash sensors?
Yes they do. I made a post on the TCSS forum you can review here that has a pic of the components:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=372&page=16
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
Lonewind
-
Yes they do. I made a post on the TCSS forum you can review here that has a pic of the components:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=372&page=16
Hope this helps.
It does. Very cool. 8)
Thanks!
-
Ok, So I have an idea to make my saber a little more unique, I'm going to cut a design out of copper pipe to attach to the side of the emitter, but it's only going to go around 1/3rd of the way, any ideas how to attach it? Contact cement, tack it, suggestions?
-
Ok, So I have an idea to make my saber a little more unique, I'm going to cut a design out of copper pipe to attach to the side of the emitter, but it's only going to go around 1/3rd of the way, any ideas how to attach it? Contact cement, tack it, suggestions?
Many smith's use JB Weld, sometimes you can find Locktite 2-ton epoxy, (that stuff works pretty good).
Optionally, have u considered set screws, ....or even a contrasting color button head screw? You can find them as small as 1/8", you may still need to sand a little bit off though, ...but that works fine.
-
Does anyone have a wiring guide/diagram for a MR luke anh fx soundboard? I was thinking of adding an accent LED for a crystal chamber, but I don't know where to solder the wire to :P
-
LDM has one or two in his Photobucket account.
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Tutorials/Wiring%20Diagrams/ (http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Tutorials/Wiring%20Diagrams/)
-
thanks, but which one is the luke AnH ???
-
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi291.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll317%2Fdrdicarlo%2FTutorials%2FWiring%2520Diagrams%2FYodaFxsoundboard-1.jpg&hash=12e78bf9a3acde4cff60babcb7c611b51540389e) (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Tutorials/Wiring%20Diagrams/YodaFxsoundboard-1.jpg)
That is the same board as the Luke ANH....it's labelled as a yoda, but the board in the picture is actually an Anakin ROTS....not sure why he calls it a Yoda....the color of the board may be slightly different (blue-ish as opposed to green) but it's the same thing. You wire your accent led on the bottom of the header pins, the postive on the positive for the led strip, and the negative to the first segemnt that comes on....which is conveniently labeled as "1" on the board. Be sure to use the appropriate resistor for your accent led, as well.
I have pictures in one of my build topics for that somewhere....
EDIT:
Kind of like so:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FBrass%2520Saber%252014%2F100_4284.jpg&hash=95ea963b40e03b6765dec1f5bb2e3a143e4bb94c) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2014/100_4284.jpg)
Luke ROTJ shown, but the ANH is wired in a similar fashion.
-
I've got a question :D
Can both of these sinktubes slide over TCSS parts for an overlay? or does only the bigger one fit?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-12-x-12-Chrome-sink-tube-P84.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-14-x-12-Chrome-sink-tube--P83.aspx
-
Only the 1 1/2" will fit Zayne. The 1 1/4" tube is used with the other 1 1/4" adaptors and blade socket. This adapter allows the use of any MHS blade holder, pommel, etc. on the 1 1/4" tubes:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-to-125-sink-tube-adapter-P396.aspx
this is the blade socket i use in my 1 1/4" chrome Saber Series, as does Gemin Concepts in thier Acolyte sereis (correct me if I'm wrong, Chewy! ;)):
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/125-Sink-tube-LEDBlade-holder--P269.aspx
-
this is the blade socket i use in my 1 1/4" chrome Saber Series, as does Gemin Concepts in thier Acolyte sereis (correct me if I'm wrong, Chewy! ;)):
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/125-Sink-tube-LEDBlade-holder--P269.aspx
you are correct Master Jinn, and I personally think that is a really cool piece, many options for it and well designed.
-
Thanks very much Qui-gon ;)
So is the 1-1/2 the sink tube the one most saber makers use for overlays? And is there other ways to make an overlay stay on, besides screws?
-
That is indeed what most of us use for overlays or sleeves. Screws are the best way to attach one, but you can also use an epoxy that is made for adhering metals, such as Devcon's 2-Ton Epoxy. Both JGJSabers and Gemini Concepts use this as well.
-
Once again, thank you :D
-
I have found that a covertech knob or D-ring is ideal for using to attach a sleeve or overlay to an MHS saber. One screw is sometimes all it takes. Sometimes even a switch nut can help to hold on on, too.
-
oh! I might just use a covertech knob for the overlay :D I never thought of using that instead of a plain screw.
btw, Qui-gon, I was wondering where you get your brass sinktubes ??? I always go to the hardware store by where I live (Menards) and all I see are the regular chrome ones :P
-
I buy them online, but the MHS parts need to be machined to fit. I've mentioned the site before, but here it is:
http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307
It usually costs $5 per part to have Tim at TCSS machine the pieces down to fit. They will need to be 1.43" in diameter in order fit inside these tubes, since they are a commercial grade (20ga.) rather than a residential grade (22ga.) like the usual chrome ones you'll find in stores.
Be careful, though, as some of the polished brass tubes are plated in chrome, and then coated with a brass coloring to make them appear polished....I've had three brass sabers go chrome on me while polishing them when they were finished. The ones that I haven't had this trouble with are the "uncoated polished brass" like I recently used on BS-16, 17, 18, and 19. They are more expensive, but worth it.
I have a decent luck with this piece, however, if you are just looking to use it as a sleeve over an MHS hilt:
http://www.signaturehardware.com/product416
and this one:http://www.signaturehardware.com/product418
The picture shows the one with nuts, but it is simply a flared end, that can be used to add another layer to the saber if cutt off.
-
I think I may be interrupting a post that Master Jinn is preparing, but if u can not find them or not thrilled with the price, optionally you can sand a chrome plated sinktube down, ...they are all brass underneath.
I believe Master Jedye has a little tutorial here somewhere to do this rather quickly.
-
If I'm going to run my P4 white off 4 NiMH batteries, (4.8v) what resistor do i need? Since I'm ordering from TCSS, I need to get it right the first time. 8) :D
Will that resistor be the same if I run a p4 blue off the 4 NiMH? Green?
Oh, and one more thing, how much do I owe you? ;D
For 6 volts I need a 2.2 ohm 5 watt resistor.
-
The power requirements for a P4 led are nearly identical to a Luxeon III, so you can use the same resistors for either led.
-
Maybe a rephrase in needed...
The kit's Tim sells are equipped with a 2.2 ohm 5 watt resistor. I assume that is intended for 6 volts.
My power source is 4.8 volts. So, I guess the question I'm asking is which resistor will properly and safely drive the led with 4.8 volts as the power source?
-
Caden, look at the resistor chart on TCSS:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx
The P4's require roughly the same voltage and current as a Luxeon III blue, green, or white. Now, you tell me, what resistor do you need?
-
Doh!
1 ohm 2 watt. :o ::) for white, green, blue and a 1.2 ohm 3 watt for red
How did I miss that chart? :P ::) :-[
Thanks Qui-gon.
;) ::)
Maybe I'm just a jar jar? :D
-
Aghh Double post with a new question!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-connectors-P360.aspx
Are the JST QD's better than the regular ones?
-
They are probably a better value. You get longer wires, and they are color-coded to ensure you don't wire something backwards. The regular QD sometimes is backwards on the polarity of the wires after you cut it in half and plug it into itself, resulting in a non-functioning led.
-
Ok, so I've seen people with charge ports on their sabers, and I'm assuming that there are rechargeable battery packs inside. So where can I buy this for my own saber? Are there any benefits other then saving money on spare batteries? And finally, is installing it any more difficult then installing regular batteries?
-
Recharge ports allow a better use of TrustFire rechargeable and other type of rechargeable batteries, ........but many times, ...they are being used as a kill key port.
Installing a recharge port is easy once you get the right diagram, ...which is available around here somewhere, ...Im too lazy/busy to look it up at the moment.
-
Check out this link Nasst:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2235
Hope that helps.
-
Sweet, thanks.
-
I just got my tcss stuff today, and am wondering how ot wire my switch. As near as i can tell, I need to run the led and batterypack positive and negative ot the switch posts... is this right? Or can the negative side skip the switch? ??? But wouldn't that remove the whole reason for a switch? ::) ??? All this electronics stuff is confusing. I looked for pics form some of QGJ's builds ans some of the other smiths, but most don't have a lot of images or are using soundboards.
Here's the switch I'm using- http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3159591
Thanks in advance for answering my dumb questions...
-
I hate to do this, but - BUMP! ::) :P :-[
I would really prefer ot get an answer tonight, i will be very busy tomorrow, and probably won't be able ot do this then.
I waited...
-
Are you using a soundboard? Or just the LED, battery pack, and a resistor?
If the latter, wire the battery+ with resistor to the LED+, then wire the LED- to one pin on the switch, and the battery- to the other.
-
You only waited 2 hours for your question to be answered before you bumped it up.
That's a different kind of switch than what comes with the TCSS LED kits. How many terminals does it have? I can't tell from the pic if it has 3 or 4.
If you want the LED to light up, you're also going to have to have both a positive and negative wire going to it. I sure hope the terminals are marked in some way.
If you don't understand electronics, you should probably go with a simpler switch.
-
I know how to wire the switch to light it up, but I wasn't sure if I should have wired it to the positive side or the negative side. It's not going to light up. ;)
As for my bump, I had ot get my answer in a hurry, but It looks like i'll have ot postpone wiring it... Thanks Jasher. I was going to do the opposite thing. It makes so sense now.
-
whats the best type of glue to use for things like glueing switches etc? (mace windu)
will super glue be ok or is ther a favorite used?
thanks
-
I know QGJ uses 2-ton epoxy. I think JB-weld will work too. But i'd have to say 2-ton epoxy is best.
-
whats the best type of glue to use for things like glueing switches etc? (mace windu)
will super glue be ok or is ther a favorite used?
thanks
When I coverted a Mace for a friend of mine, I re-glued the metal, gold plated button back on the switch using hot-melt glue from a glue gun. The reason? It's easier to remve the switch again if you ever need to fix it, or take it apart again.
-
cheers guys yeah that hot glue sounds good as i did think i may need to open up the saber again eventually
-
I was wondering how good they are to the other sabers or if you prefer them. I cant seem to find a single review but they look cool. Almost like a Sidious saber in shape. So anyone out their care give me a quick opinion on it?
-
I was wondering how good they are to the other sabers or if you prefer them. I cant seem to find a single review but they look cool. Almost like a Sidious saber in shape. So anyone out their care give me a quick opinion on it?
Uhm, ..what are u talking about?
-
Oops, my fault, Chewy! I forgot to edit his post with the old title of his original topic....he was asking about an Ultrasaber called a "Malice."
-
Yes, the Malice, Qui-Gonn. Do you know of any reviews for it?
-
No, not off hand...did you try the search function on the forums?
-
I thought it wa only for finding members... :-\
-
Master Jinn is refering to THIS search:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=search which I'm pretty sure I have linked you before.
I think u need this one too,
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?action=help
-
Chewbacca, that is the enine I also was refering to. But no posts as of yet for the Malice by Ultra Sabers...
-
Looks like no one has posted a review as of yet....you could be the first if you ordered one.
-
Looks like no one has posted a review as of yet....you could be the first if you ordered one.
Thats a thought....perhaps, but only if the handle is big enough for my hands...
-
Ultrasabers Malice:
-
Where do you know of that i can buy a switch like the one's Ultra uses? His is a latching push button switch that is press fitted into the hole. RS doesn't sell them and I couldn't find any on google.
Any suggestions?
Also, I assume i can run a red/o lux III off two AAA's? Or no?
-
Where do you know of that i can buy a switch like the one's Ultra uses? His is a latching push button switch that is press fitted into the hole. RS doesn't sell them and I couldn't find any on google.
Any suggestions?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Latching-Guarded-switch-with-silver-button-P255.aspx
-
MJ, that switch has a nut on the back IIRC, so I can't use it. I need one like Ultras. It just pushes into the hole.
thanks anyway!
-
MJ, that switch has a nut on the back IIRC, so I can't use it. I need one like Ultras. It just pushes into the hole.
thanks anyway!
You are correct....it does have a nut on the back of it.
-
It's the same button Caden, ..Ultra just doesn't always use the nut.
-
Sweet! Thanks Chewie, MJ! I wasn't sure. ::) :D ;) Alright...
-
I am getting ready to add my ESB grips to my graflex and was wondering what is the better way to go? Should I use rivets or screws? I have the screws and I also have a rivet gun so there is on problem on materials, I just was wondering what works best and what others have used in the past? I have seen a lot of Luke ESB with the screws but I like the look of the rivets better and the idea of a hole for the sound! Thanks for the help!
Rev
-
I think that is a matter of personal opinion.
IMO, screws may be easier, but you'll need to trim them, though I suspect u would need to trim the rivet as well. Either way, be careful not to squoosh the grips.
-
I think that is a matter of personal opinion.
IMO, screws may be easier, but you'll need to trim them, though I suspect u would need to trim the rivet as well. Either way, be careful not to squoosh the grips.
What's a squoosh? Is it some kind of fruit from Kashyyyk?
-
Wow I thought more people would have an opinion! I found your one of Chewie's ESB builds and like the idea of taping the holes out for the screw so there is no nut on the inside of the hilt. I have never riveted before and not sure if they are flush on the inside or if you can control the pressure as to not "squoosh" the grips. Any info would be much appreciated!
-
I have used a larger rivet gun before, and it had no way of selecting control, just press and go. If using a chassis, u really will need to have the inside of the hilt free of any protrusions and the only rivets I have ever used leaves a large backing on it.
Which is why I opted to tap the holes and not use the inlcuded nuts for each bolt.
-
Thank you for the info Chewbacca, that was just what I needed! I am going to tap the holes and saw the screws flush for my future DIY chassis kit!
-
Really quick question but I have asked LDM before and was wondering other peoples experiences, How long does it take for the Graflex shop to ship out there items and me to receive it? Im in NY BTW. Thanks Just want to know my time frame.
EDIT: I ordered the parts on Saturday
-
hey can i put a parks sabers phase blade on an ultra saber hilt? will it work properly? also are there other parts from both sites compatable with eachother? ??? :-\
-
Ummm... no. A phase blade has a plug in on it. Ultra's has an in hilt LED.
Anything for an LED saber will work on an Ultrasaber/ Luxeon hilt. Phase blades are a string of LED's similar to an MR.
-
Really quick question but I have asked LDM before and was wondering other peoples experiences, How long does it take for the Graflex shop to ship out there items and me to receive it? Im in NY BTW. Thanks Just want to know my time frame.
EDIT: I ordered the parts on Saturday
They can take up to two weeks. Hope you're not in a rush...
-
Gooooood Morning everyone! How's life treating you? Mine's not hitting on much this time of day.
So, I have a question. If I needed to clean the inside of a blade out, as in remove debris, how could I do it? Would I have ot take the film out?
-
Good morning Caden and everyone else! I think you do have to take it out. I had my tip fly off while battling outside and the tube has little pieces of dirt inside. If you have pressurized air you might try that but it seems its stuck with the static of the film in mine. Hope this helps and have a good day!
-
Chances are, the dirt/debris is not gonna come off the film. (Static electricity, blah blah blah). You'll most likely have to replace the film with either a diffuser or clear film.
Good luck
-
Dang... Well... this morning just got worse. :'( I'll leave it alone. They aren't show blades, so it's not crucial. :-[ :-X :-\
-
Anyone have a wiring diagram for an MR Obi-Wan board?
I specifically need to know how to wire the clash sensor...
-
I was just wondering if the MR Luke graflex clamp is the same as a vintage or replica like a parks? Is the bubble strip the same as the ones you would buy for a graflex? Thanks for the help!
-
Its not exactly the same no, but its a pretty decent clamp. The bubble strip is pretty close to the normal graflex one as well. I actually like the MR Luke anh quite a bit. The ESB one is overly fat, but he clamp on it is used for the MR based Luke RotJ V2s.
-
Anyone have a wiring diagram for an MR Obi-Wan board?
I specifically need to know how to wire the clash sensor...
Here is an Anakin, should be similar:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2Fsound%2520boards%2FFILE0004.jpg&hash=c998e9a57941eb2773e80b2e83c9be956b5b5287)
-
Here is an Anakin, should be similar:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2Fsound%2520boards%2FFILE0004.jpg&hash=c998e9a57941eb2773e80b2e83c9be956b5b5287) (http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd328/darth_call/sound%20boards/FILE0004.jpg)
Thanks. Had to make it "clicky." ;D
-
Ok so i have a Parks phase saber on its way.. Its a Phaeton aka Obi Wan the phantom menace.. So what im asking is can there be sound put into this saber? Cause really i know some are into it, but i dont see the point in a saber with no sound.
-
With the phase blade currently no. If you had someone mod it for a Luxeon you could probably get a yoda board in there. There is also word from Korbanth that they'll be phase blades with sound built in later this year'ish, but at that time you'd need to buy the new sound blade.
-
Hey, So i got a parks phaeton saber aka obi wan the phantom menace... Can sound be put into this?
-
Hey, So i got a parks phaeton saber aka obi wan the phantom menace... Can sound be put into this?
Thats what my reply above was about.... ::)
-
Okay...battery question.
Why aren't 9V or N batteries used when making our sabers?
Is it because the extra voltage isn't needed?
Because run time is too poor?
Anyone? Anyone? (Bueller? :D)
-
Okay...battery question.
Why aren't 9V or N batteries used when making our sabers?
Is it because the extra voltage isn't needed?
Because run time is too poor?
Anyone? Anyone? (Bueller? :D)
Yes. ;)
-
Yes to both, huh? :P
Well...does anyone know where I can get AAA size TrustFires?
-
Haha i didnt know i posted that 2 times. So i might be able to is that what your saying?
-
Does TCSS ship to ireland
-
Where can I find some US style Push in pommel plugs? I ruined my only one just a few minutes ago, and I would love to find somewhere local that may have a lot of them. After All i love them.
Also, where can I find the rubber caps?
-
Does TCSS ship to ireland
TCSS ships worldwide.
Where can I find some US style Push in pommel plugs? I ruined my only one just a few minutes ago, and I would love to find somewhere local that may have a lot of them. After All i love them.
Also, where can I find the rubber caps?
You might want to check your local hardware store for both. The endcaps/pommels I'm not sure of, but the rubber caps are rubber chair leg end caps.
-
Where can I find some US style Push in pommel plugs? I ruined my only one just a few minutes ago, and I would love to find somewhere local that may have a lot of them. After All i love them.
Also, where can I find the rubber caps?
I have an extra push in plug.
And do you mean the rubber caps for the blade ends?
-
I need a whole load of the caps. I'll check my local hw store. ;) Thanks for the help!
I need them for some saber upgrading, and for "other" projects... Hee hee hee... ;) ;D ;D
Edit: Never mind, I just stumbled upon a post about some new screw in Phantom endcaps... those look Veerryyy nice...
Thanks anyway! ;)
-
does the US 2.0 need a momentary switch .... and also what is a momentary switch ... i searched some info here but it didn't really explain it because all i know now is that a momentary switch need to be pressed down the entire time ...... sorry to be a complete noob but i'm really ??? ??? ???
-
A latching switch latches and removes the need to press it down tthe whole time to complete a circuit.
A momentary is jsut a switch that has to be held down the whole time or used to trigger a specific function such as blaster deflect sounds and saber lockups. ;)
-
I have a quick question about the FX-Sabers homepage. At the bottom of the page there is a photo of 3 lightsaber clamps. The one on the left of the picture with a pink rim would be perfect for the custom lightsaber I'm planning to make for my girlfriend. I'd love to know who actually made it I can I buy one?
-
in TCSS does a sink tube NEED a sink tube adaptor .... also how does the battery pack stay tight in a MHS saber??
-
in TCSS does a sink tube NEED a sink tube adaptor .... also how does the battery pack stay tight in a MHS saber??
unless you plan to use the sinktube as a simple sleeve or accent piece, yes, it needs an adaptor to use the other MHS parts with it.
The AAA battery pack fits almost perfectly inside an MHS section, as does the 4-AA stick-type holder. If you're using sound, you can add the MHS speaker mount to either battery pack (there's a version for each battery holder) and then secure that to the battery pack with some form of glue, and the pack will be held secure by that speaker mount after you atach the pommel. If you look through some of my build topics in the Mining Colony, you'll see me use bot types of packs and the speaker mounts. Try doing a little searching on your own, most of the questions you've been asking have been covered in depth here already. ;)
-
do, do, do, I don't really know were to post this question so I'll stick it here.
Ok, to keep a long story short, I need a new screw for my Mace Windu FX, it is the screw that goes thru the middle of, and holds in, the little round clipy thingy that likes to stick off of most lightsabers ;)
We searched our local hardwares store and could not find a screw small enough. I was wondering if any of you good people could perhaps link me to were a can order the right size screw. (or just tell me the size ::) )
Anyway if you don't know what I am talking about I can post some pics, either way, Thanks :)
-
do, do, do, I don't really know were to post this question so I'll stick it here.
Ok, to keep a long story short, I need a new screw for my Mace Windu FX, it is the screw that goes thru the middle of, and holds in, the little round clipy thingy that likes to stick off of most lightsabers ;)
We searched our local hardwares store and could not find a screw small enough. I was wondering if any of you good people could perhaps link me to were a can order the right size screw. (or just tell me the size ::) )
Anyway if you don't know what I am talking about I can post some pics, either way, Thanks :)
Im a little confused, ....but that is usual.
Pics pleasse.
-
I believe he wants the thread size of the screw that holds the CT wheel onto the hilt. I happen to have a Mace FX here, but have no idea exactly what size the thread is for that screw.
-
This may have been asked before, but i couldn't find anything in any of my searches. Here goes.
In the comics, where Luke battles the Emperor.......I remember Luke constructed a sith saber, where it can only be activated by using the force. Since I don't have that comic or know what the saber looks like, does anyone here have any pics or even better.....did anyone attempt at making this saber? Since they make electronics that can be turned on by touching it now, I would be interested in seeing this one made.
-
I have seen a couple replicas made of it that were static props sold on ebay. It can be seen in the link below under Histories/Luke Skywalker/Luke Skywalker (5). I'll see if I can find another picture of it some place.
http://www.thelightsaber.com/web/IndexFolder/index2.htm
Edit - I've looked all over and had no luck other than that. It was a while back on the ebay auction for the person who made it. Looked pretty close to the one in thelightsaber.com reference.
-
how come my sig is a URL and not a pic
-
Try putting it inbetween the "img" tags. Click this thing on the top of your message. (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/Themes/hilo2/images/bbc/img.gif)
(https://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/darthfrodo0123/DarthFrodoSignature.jpg)
-
On the top of what message .'......... where :-[ :-[ :-[
-
On the top of what message .'......... where :-[ :-[ :-[
The message you just typed.... look at the smilies up there. It's the button above the smilies, between ;) & :D . That will give you the IMG tags.
Put your link between the img tags... or type out the IMG tags manually. [ i m g ] YourLinkHere [ / i m g ] (but without the spaces.
-
(https://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/darthfrodo0123/DarthFrodoSignature.jpg)
-
[img]https://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/darthfrodo0123/DarthFrodoSignature.jpg/img]
Yep... now just add a " [ " before the slash "/".
EDIT: YAY! You did it! Tomorrow, we'll work on re-formating a hard drive. ;)
-
where are blade gaurds sold
-
where are blade gaurds sold
Blade guard? ???
-
where are blade gaurds sold
Or maybe blade gourd? They're in the produce aisle between the squash and the pumpkins. :D
(C'mon, MJ...I thought you were the rezident spel-cheking Jedi... :D ;D)
By blade guard, do you mean something like a scabbard? Or something like a bag to hold the blades in when they're not in use?
If the former, there are none that I know of. If the latter, I've seen some bags sold on eBay. Bags for pool cues and fishing poles will also work.
-
i mean the spike from dooku emitter
-
i mean the spike from dooku emitter
It's not sold anywhere, only on the Dooku saber.
Have u seen a "spike" on a any other saber that would lead u believe some one is making them?
The closest thing to it would be the claw pieces that TCSS use to sell, ...they come up for sale in the TF every now and then, ...so keep an eye out.
-
If i use a tcss sinktube just as a sleeve and secure it with a nut and bolt or whatever does it still need a sinjtube adaptor also ow tight is it
Also i saw somthing like the MHS system but it was alot more detailed because you were able to change the colour of a certain piece, if anyone has a link to this it would be much appreciated
-
A sinktube adapter is for using a sinktube as a hilt and wanting to add an MHS pommel or emitter. Qui Gon is the master of this technology. I have not seen his equal.
Now if you're talking about an MHS hilt with a sinktube overlay than you don't need the adapter since you have a complete MHS under the sinktube. Fender bender and new mod Unduli from Vader's Vault are the master's of the overlay. Check out their work to see what can be done.
Amptrooper I believe uses a different type of tool than a dremel and does amazing cutout work on his overlays. His mando overlay with skull is the best I've ever seen.
-
Okay.... Just received my custom saber with sabersound 1.0.
Powered it up twice briefly--- no problems.
Powered down and slid the battery pack into the hilt--- a few seconds later I heard "sabersound 1.0" <<< (should only do this at initial boot up?)
Tried to power up again to no avail.
Batteries were really hot.
Opened her up and shined a light inside. Turns out the board is unprotected, and a ball of solder from the board is actually touching the inside of the aluminum hilt.
Can't see any loose wires in there.
Sooooooo, what are the odds that the board is fried? >:(
-
Okay.... Just received my custom saber with sabersound 1.0.
Powered it up twice briefly--- no problems.
Powered down and slid the battery pack into the hilt--- a few seconds later I heard "sabersound 1.0" <<< (should only do this at initial boot up?)
Tried to power up again to no avail.
Batteries were really hot.
Opened her up and shined a light inside. Turns out the board is unprotected, and a ball of solder from the board is actually touching the inside of the aluminum hilt.
Can't see any loose wires in there.
Sooooooo, what are the odds that the board is fried? >:(
I'd say pretty good, sorry. If you bought it from Saberforge, I'd suggest emailing him and telling him what happened. This is why most sabersmiths use something to insulate the boards from the aluminum of the hilt, or a short that can damage the electronics can occur, exactly like the one you just described.
-
Thank you, Qui-Gon. :)
-
do the battery packs / board holder insulate the board
-
do the battery packs / board holder insulate the board
Only if the board is sitting on top of them...and sometimes not even then. Great care must be taken to ensure none of the solder connections on the board or in the wiring will touch the inside of the hilt. Solder connections between wires should heat-shrink wrapped, and connections on the soundboards and driver boards must be properly soldered so that they do not contact each other, or the sidewall of the hilt.
-
Here is my "every type of question" for your "every type of answers."
I got my Dooku saber when it came out (pre-order) and I've been trying to think of a way to get an orange blade. I may eventually buy a conversion off someone, but I've been thinking of alternatives.
How doable would it be to find orange leds that I can use to replace the leds in the Hasbro blade so that I can keep the power up effect, but get an orange blade? Is that something where I could just unsolder their leds and solder in my own?
-
How doable would it be to find orange leds that I can use to replace the leds in the Hasbro blade so that I can keep the power up effect, but get an orange blade? Is that something where I could just unsolder their leds and solder in my own?
Well, ...yea, I guess so. One leg is soldered on one side the ladder and the other on the opposite. Each has has a little resistor that u'd have to be careful of, and it would be a GREAT deal of work. But it's doable.
It honestly may be easier to look at Eastern57's tutorial on making a whole new LED ladder in the data sheets section, (I think), or possibly adding some yellow tinted clear gift wrap to the white diffuser.
-
I am working on the electronics for an RGB saber, with an RGB crystal chamber. This is the specs and the pic for the crystal chamber LED.
Mouser Part #: 828-OVSTRGBBCR8
Manufacturer Part #: OVSTRGBBCR8
Manufacturer: Optek
Description: LEDs - Surface Mount & Leaded RGB
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi913.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac338%2Fkdmctime12%2Fth_ovstrgbbcr8.jpg&hash=df4b43f692d7ecc70c93eacd08c64baeae1cf69e) (http://s913.photobucket.com/albums/ac338/kdmctime12/?action=view¤t=ovstrgbbcr8.jpg)
My Blade LED is a seoul P5 II RGB. Mouser says it runs on 4W. I am wiring up each color to use them separately, and sometimes to do color mixing. I'm patching in the positive LED lead from the driver, which is a 1000mA bucpuck, to a series of three switches, one for each color. At the end of each switch, is a branch of two wires, one for the crystal chamber led, one for the blade led. I need to know what resistors to use for the crystal chamber led, and which ones to use for the seoul P5 led.
Mouser Part #: 889-F50360
Manufacturer Part #: F50360
Manufacturer: Seoul Semiconductor
Description: LEDs - High Power RGB Full Color 4 Watt
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi913.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac338%2Fkdmctime12%2Fth_F50360.jpg&hash=a7f161767fee06ddb751c3fa4da54def0b87ef62) (http://s913.photobucket.com/albums/ac338/kdmctime12/?action=view¤t=F50360.jpg)
The ideal voltage is 350mA, the maximum voltage for each die is 400ma. If my driver is 1000mA, what resistors should I use?
-
Besides nocturne armory who makes the Rahm Kota lightsaber?
-
Standard Style, Guarded Style, AV Style,Tactile and bezel
what is the difference between all these switches
-
Standard Style, Guarded Style, AV Style,Tactile and bezel
what is the difference between all these switches
Click the link for the pictures.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switches-C23.aspx
As it usually relates to these builds... bezels aren't switches... think of them as an adapter or nut on which to place your switch.
(https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/171_7132_t.jpg)
or
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2Favb1.jpg&hash=a5b07fdec1ea4b55d4f184b920d2dc662705ace8)
-
Besides nocturne armory who makes the Rahm Kota lightsaber?
That's a good question....not sure, really. you may have to have that custom made...contact Do-Clo in the S.A.B.E.R. GUILD (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=83.0).
Standard Style, Guarded Style, AV Style,Tactile and bezel
what is the difference between all these switches
Size, shape and function.....they are all different, and there are descriptions of them at TCSS:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switches-C23.aspx
The AV is Anti-Vandal...those are the metal illuminated switches, and are available in momentary and latching style....the guarded have a guard around the button, available in both momentary and latching style....tactiles are tiny micro switches only available as momentary type.....the standard switch is the basic plastic button, and is available in both latching and momentary. The bezel is this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx
Designed only for use with the AV illuminated switches.
-
thanks very specific
-
i know im asking alot of questions here but all wil be explained ....... http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-5-deg-viewing-angle-P4.aspx
is this lens for a lux 3
-
i know im asking alot of questions here but all wil be explained ....... http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-5-deg-viewing-angle-P4.aspx
is this lens for a lux 3
yes, that lens will work as well as the 10 degree.
The lenses are typical,, and work with nearly all LEDs, the thing to watch for is the lens holder, make sure u order the LUX III/V holder for it.
-
ok....i got a MR vader and there is like a huge scratch ring on it where i was messing around and being dumb ::), does anyone know if there is any kind of liquid remover or sumthin i can use to get it off??
-
a scratch ring?
on the metal, plastic or the blade?
-
a scratch ring?
on the metal, plastic or the blade?
oops....the blade :D
-
TCSS sell novus polish, ...
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Novus-polishing-kit-P60.aspx
might help if the scratches aren't too deep
-
TCSS sell novus polish, ...
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Novus-polishing-kit-P60.aspx
might help if the scratches aren't too deep
i dont think theyre that bad, itll prob work, thanks for showin me that!!
-
does anyone know the exact dimensions of tcss 1.5" sinktube ... ID OD Thickness
-
does anyone know the exact dimensions of tcss 1.5" sinktube ... ID OD Thickness
1.5" O.D., and 1.46" I.D. If you want the thickness, it's 22 gauge...if you want that in inches, you're going to have to do your own math. ;)
-
perfect thanks
-
What's a Darth Frodo?
What Frodo would have been like if he decided to keep the Ring and use it all the time?
-
Hahaha I think you might be right on that JLo...watch out if he builds his saber and starts calling it "the presssshusssss" eh...a Darth Frodo is one thing but we don't want a Darth Gollum...
[now that I've said that a Darth Gollum will probably register]
-
Heh, it wouldn't surprise me.
We're getting "Darth every-genre" here. ::)
-
I'm no genre... :'( :'( ;D I'm just me.
Believe it or not, I need ot have some lathe advice.
I just bought this for $45. (No that's not a typo.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2001.jpg&hash=27ec8cfd6ee80df25488270fba30abaffad419e6) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2001.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2002.jpg&hash=976e1a5f17ccc1f6178e858990da79707827e3e1) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2002.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2003.jpg&hash=4d1b4f20b2159339b43b08e9dc40a5c00218b8fd) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2003.jpg)
anyone ever heard of Ames lathes?
(And yes I know I'm missing some stuff. But what's there works and has been used quite a bit before, judging form the metal shaving that were on it.)
-
i have this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx
an that http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Power-jack-kill-plug-P242.aspx
but what else will i need for recharge port/ kill key hole
-
i have this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx
an that http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Power-jack-kill-plug-P242.aspx
but what else will i need for recharge port/ kill key hole
that's kinda it, ...assuming u have a hilt, wires, batterypack, etc, etc.
U'll prolly wanna pick up a charger too.
-
thats the thing because i dont know what charger to get for in hilt recharge
-
I'm no genre... :'( :'( ;D I'm just me.
Believe it or not, I need ot have some lathe advice.
I just bought this for $45. (No that's not a typo.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2001.jpg&hash=27ec8cfd6ee80df25488270fba30abaffad419e6) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2001.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2002.jpg&hash=976e1a5f17ccc1f6178e858990da79707827e3e1) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2002.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2003.jpg&hash=4d1b4f20b2159339b43b08e9dc40a5c00218b8fd) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2003.jpg)
anyone ever heard of Ames lathes?
(And yes I know I'm missing some stuff. But what's there works and has been used quite a bit before, judging form the metal shaving that were on it.)
Sounds like a good deal to me. With old belt drive lathes the brand matters less than the features. Like, does it have automatic feed? and if so does it require physically changing gears to change the feed rate?
Any way you cut it $45 is less than the tool post and whatever parts you got for the collate chuck are worth!
If you need gears for the feed, I have a set for an old lathe that went bad. if the shaft spacing and diameter is the same of course. If you can use em, they're yours ;D
-
thats the thing because i dont know what charger to get for in hilt recharge
the charger will be dependant on which type of batteries u use. If u use Lio-on battery, ...get a lio-on charger, ...if u use NIMH/NICD, get a NIMH/NICD charger.
The only common will be the dc charger adapter.
http://www.all-battery.com/conversioncablefromdcfemaletostandardtamiyamaleconnector.aspx
-
thats the thing because i dont know what charger to get for in hilt recharge
well what kind of batteries are you going to use? If you are using NiMH, then get this charger:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/24V-72V-Nimh-Smart-charger-P145.aspx
and this adapter wire:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-plug-adapter-for-smart-charger-P36.aspx
-
I'm no genre... :'( :'( ;D I'm just me.
Believe it or not, I need ot have some lathe advice.
I just bought this for $45. (No that's not a typo.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2001.jpg&hash=27ec8cfd6ee80df25488270fba30abaffad419e6) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2001.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2002.jpg&hash=976e1a5f17ccc1f6178e858990da79707827e3e1) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2002.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi861.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab179%2Fjwmotors%2Fth_e-bay2003.jpg&hash=4d1b4f20b2159339b43b08e9dc40a5c00218b8fd) (http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab179/jwmotors/?action=view¤t=e-bay2003.jpg)
anyone ever heard of Ames lathes?
(And yes I know I'm missing some stuff. But what's there works and has been used quite a bit before, judging form the metal shaving that were on it.)
Sounds like a good deal to me. With old belt drive lathes the brand matters less than the features. Like, does it have automatic feed? and if so does it require physically changing gears to change the feed rate?
Any way you cut it $45 is less than the tool post and whatever parts you got for the collate chuck are worth!
If you need gears for the feed, I have a set for an old lathe that went bad. if the shaft spacing and diameter is the same of course. If you can you em they're yours ;D
Thanks for the info and the offer. To be honest, I don't have a clue. i was hoping someone else could tell me something about it. :D :D I do know I'm going to have to learn abotu how to use one as well as how to identify the features.
-
What is the best and safest way to handle a soundboard also i saw in one vid that the US 2.5 has holes instead of solder pads... IMO this would be ALOT easier
-
Leave no batteries in the battery pack when installing it. Otherwise, if you bump the board against the hilt, you will short it out and fry it, potentially. You have to isolate the board, whether by wrapping it in something, or by using a soundboard holder.
-
You have to isolate the board, whether by wrapping it in something, or by using a soundboard holder.
Just a reminder, you should NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER shrink wrap an Ultrasound (any model!) or CF soundboard. You can get away with it on an MR/HFX board, or the toy Hasbro boards, because they don't give off the heat that an Ultrasound or Crystal Focus will. Heat shrink wrapping an Ultrasound can cause a build up of heat that may cause components of the board to de-solder themselves, so don't ever do that. Build a chassis or cradle to hold the board instead., or wrap it in some faom to protect it. Sometimes if you're using an MHS based hilt, you can house the Ultrasound or CF in a piece of 1 1/4" sink drain pvc pipe to build a cradle from.
-
I apologize QGJ. I wasn't aware they got that hot. ;) :) Thank you for the correction.
-
does the MHS sound/speaker/battery combo insulate US 2.5
-
does the MHS sound/speaker/battery combo insulate US 2.5
from what?
To a degree it does provide a sense of protection from shorts against the inside of the hilt in that the OD of the speaker holder is larger that the area around the board, however, it is wise to ALWAYS protect the board with SOME sort of protective barrier,even if it is just some plastic, a film canister, etc, etc.
If the board is on a sled, then it is usually OK.
And heed Master Jinn's warning, ...do not heat sink a US board! Give it some breathing room, ...it gets warm.
Film canisters and pill bottles, (cut the ends off) work well for builds using the US board.
I use a different method, ....but on occasion resort back to the ole pill bottle.
-
would 4 AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery be ok with MHS sound/speaker/battery combo and lux 3 ... reply asap
-
I am having trouble putting a vid on Photobucket as it gets to about 4% and then just cuts out as if I have lost connection to the internet
Can someone please help me?
-
Hmm....well, it could be how large the photo you are trying to upload is, but most likely, it's because your internet has fluctuated. Try resizing the photo until it is at a comfortable 800 KB - 1 MB size, that could help speed it up, and make sure that you don't have that many internet processes up when trying to upload it. Worth a shot!
-
Hmm....well, it could be how large the photo you are trying to upload is, but most likely, it's because your internet has fluctuated. Try resizing the photo until it is at a comfortable 800 KB - 1 MB size, that could help speed it up, and make sure that you don't have that many internet processes up when trying to upload it. Worth a shot!
thanks but it is a video I am trying to upload I have had no probs with photos :)
-
thanks but it is a video I am trying to upload I have had no probs with photos :)
How long is the video? I think PB has a 10 minute limit, and must be under 100K, unless you have a Pro account, then I believe it gives you more for the size of the video.
-
thanks but it is a video I am trying to upload I have had no probs with photos :)
How long is the video? I think PB has a 10 minute limit, and must be under 100K, unless you have a Pro account, then I believe it gives you more for the size of the video.
It's 5:16mins long
-
Is the file under 100KB? Do you have Adobe Flash version 6.0.25 or higher installed?
-
would 4 AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery be ok with MHS sound/speaker/battery combo and lux 3 ... reply asap
-
... reply asap
Being a bit demanding, aren't we?
-
sincerest apologies master Qui Gon sir ... RWMC .... reply when most convinent
-
Yes, that battery set up is actually ideal for the led you plan to use.
-
thank you .... my mind is at ease ... 8)
-
Is the file under 100KB? Do you have Adobe Flash version 6.0.25 or higher installed?
It's 112MB not sure if MB is bigger or smaller than KB
The only adobe program on my comp is adobe reader 9 but I don't know what that is as it is my wife that uses that for her work
-
A Megabyte consists of one kilobyte and a kilobyte consists of 1024 bytes
-
Is the file under 100KB? Do you have Adobe Flash version 6.0.25 or higher installed?
It's 112MB not sure if MB is bigger or smaller than KB
The only adobe program on my comp is adobe reader 9 but I don't know what that is as it is my wife that uses that for her work
Have you tried Photobucket's help section?
http://tutorials.photobucket.com/
-
A Megabyte consists of one kilobyte and a kilobyte consists of 1024 bytes
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2FConfused.jpg&hash=ddaf36c3020d599585a4cc4f49d8d8fa1780f372)
Have you tried Photobucket's help section?
http://tutorials.photobucket.com/
No I haven't as I didn't see it until you just mentioned it thanks I will have a lookie
EDIT : I have looked at the help section and I have installed the latest version of Adobe flash (10) but still no luck I will try again tomorrow but if still no luck I will post again thanks for all your help guys ;D
-
A megabyte consists of a THOUSAND kilobytes. A kilobyte is 1000 bytes (kilo is a Latin prefix which means "thousand"). ;) Good luck, Kel-Qui.
-
A megabyte consists of a THOUSAND kilobytes. A kilobyte is 1000 bytes (kilo is a Latin prefix which means "thousand"). ;)
A megabyte is when you miss out on a great saber deal.
A kilobyte is when you die from a cobra's strike. :D
(sorry, I couldn't resist)
-
does anyone know how to post pics of sabers from the mhs builder
-
save the file, (click on "save build"), load it to photobucket, post it as u would any other picture
-
A megabyte consists of a THOUSAND kilobytes. A kilobyte is 1000 bytes (kilo is a Latin prefix which means "thousand"). ;)
A megabyte is when you miss out on a great saber deal.
A kilobyte is when you die from a cobra's strike. :D
(sorry, I couldn't resist)
So if I have this right then my 112MB vid (even thoe it is under 10mins long) is to big to upload onto Photobucket ;D ??? ;D Y/N
-
This topic has probably been covered but what would I have to to to run a green lux V in a Luke rotj with the stock board? I'm pickin one up tomorrow so if it's possible I'm gonna go ahead and order the conversion kit tonight off tcss... Also are the blades set up the same as the vader esb? Because I started takin mine apart today and couldn't for the life of me get the clash board out (I have the quick disconnect style) I saw on tcss forum that someone had the same problem and I don't want to ruin another saber... One more thing (sorry) if I get the 3 led build your own force saber kit what would I have to do to make it like ultras? Or was that stock mr with just a removeable blade? And what kinda LEDs are in that saber? Lux- Seoul? Thanks for your time...
-
You can't drive a Lux V off of a MR/HFX board without frying the board doing so. The requirements are to high to pull it off as a regular conversion. You can run a Lux III or Seoul P4 for a standard conversion without a problem.
I'm not sure of the brand of LED in the construction kit, but its a low end rgb. The ony thing that was done by Ultra for these was to free up the blade so its removable and add a blade retention screw if I've read correctly.
Hope that helps a bit.
-
Thankyou! I'm so torn now... Buy a luke and convert it but comprimise my true wishes because im set on the brightness of a lux V, from what I've seen its the only way to go! Buy the fx customize kit because the video on you tube prettymuch sold me( but looks can be decieving) and its pretty cheap! Or save up and build an MHS and see if I can swoop up a CF board someday... I'm not workin with much of a budget like 2-250 max! I could work in steps for the CF but i'm scared my skills arent up to par yet and I might risk frying or breaking something (im a bit discouraged because i took apart my vader today and cant for the life of me get the clash board off so I gave up :-[ I think its broken) and thats step by step instructions with pictures... What more of custom electronics, soldering, right wattage/amps, resistors, programming etc... I want the satisfaction of building my own but I've read the boards and posts and I'm still totally in the dark on things... Is there a durable, custom saber out there with a CF and lux V setup for $250 or am I dreaming... Any leads would be much appreciated!
Darth_Sinclair
-
which soldering iron would be best .... 15 W / 25 W / 40 W
-
which soldering iron would be best .... 15 W / 25 W / 40 W
15w is really all that is needed, gets hot enough for most applications.
If you iron is too hot, u can damage the pads on sound boards, however, sometimes a hotter iron is needed, especially when using LEDengin LEDs, some K2s and some RGBs.
If u plan on using these LEDs, u may want ot get a selectable iron. Radio shack has a few that or 15-40 watt, (selectable by a 2 or 3 way switch
-
which soldering iron would be best .... 15 W / 25 W / 40 W
15w is really all that is needed, gets hot enough for most applications.
If you iron is too hot, u can damage the pads on sound boards, however, sometimes a hotter iron is needed, especially when using LEDengin LEDs, some K2s and some RGBs.
If u plan on using these LEDs, u may want ot get a selectable iron. Radio shack has a few that or 15-40 watt, (selectable by a 2 or 3 way switch
Indeed. And remember to use the appropriate solder too. (lower temp range)
-
thanks ... i think ill go wit 15 W for now for my lux 3
-
A megabyte consists of a THOUSAND kilobytes. A kilobyte is 1000 bytes (kilo is a Latin prefix which means "thousand"). ;)
A megabyte is when you miss out on a great saber deal.
A kilobyte is when you die from a cobra's strike. :D
(sorry, I couldn't resist)
So if I have this right then my 112MB vid (even thoe it is under 10mins long) is to big to upload onto Photobucket ;D ??? ;D Y/N
Yes, 112MB is too big...edit it to shorten it a bit, and it should upload easier.
I'm not sure of the brand of LED in the construction kit, but its a low end rgb. The ony thing that was done by Ultra for these was to free up the blade so its removable and add a blade retention screw if I've read correctly.
I believe they also add Ultrafilm to the blade, to help brighten it up a bit, as well.
-
I do believe the MR kits used a 1 watt RGB Prolight LED. I may be wrong though.
-
:-\ :-\
I just got over here from ervs web site and I noticed something called an omni saber system.What's that? :-\ ???
-
I think the description can say it better than I can ;D:
OmniSaber™ is a wireless version of our luxeon controller Crystal Focus Saber Core. Using a miniature digital radio transmitter, it transmits the saber gestures detected by the board to a computer (windows PC, Macintosh version under development).
Just like Crystal Focus Saber Core, the gestures are computed and recognized within the hilt, with a very low latency. A specific receiver sends those "orders" to our custom software through a MIDI link to play CD quality sounds the user has selected (MIDI interface not provided). This solution is the perfect one for professional performers doing choreographied fighting because it allows to play the saber sounds on a sound diffusion system that covers the whole stage or place : immersion is guarantied !
Our system of course features all the recent developments and innovations of Crystal Focus Saber Core, like blaster blocking or blade lockup using the aux. button. The software also gives the possibility to play a sound track during the performance (WAV or MP3). Easy navigation inside the sound track for the rehersals.
A RF Link LED is attached to the emitter AND the receiver to diagnose easily the state of the wireless link (connected / off-line). Our base version of the software handles 2 sabers and the soundtrack but it can be adapted on demand to handle more sabers (up to 16) or to be working with professionnal samplers like HALion.
The module can also be used to play in-the-hilt sounds.
-
I was just about to buy from tcss and when i checked out via paypal ... it said that pay pal is unable to process your at this time .... i need any advice ASAP.......... also is checking out through tcss safe? i need help PLEASE
-
also is checking out through tcss safe? i need help PLEASE
yes, ....yes it is.
Completely safe. Reputable company.
try again later.
-
I have just won the bid on Evil-bay for a MR Luke ESB FXsaber for £52 (about $82), but when it arrives and I have played with it and broken some LED's I will be looking at converting it however I have looked on a few sites and I can't find a conversion kit for that saber, so which kit would be compatible or do I have to try and make my own?
-
You will have ot create your own I do believe. LDM did several complete conversions a while back I think. If you can afford it, he will probably be able ot convert it for you. He may make you a bladeholder if you ask nice enough. ;) :D
-
Dumb question...but I just blew a red Lux III.
I have 2 Trustfire 3.6 going to an MR board.
I have 2 3-watt 4-pin LEDs with 150 Ohm resistors...
...but for some reason, one resistor got wired to the positive of 4-pin LED "A" and one got wired to the negative of 4-pin LED "B". :-\
The positive and negative wires for the 4-pin LEDs are spliced to the Lux's wires.
Any ideas of what I can do to fix this mess?
And how did the Lux go before the board? ???
I may just go with 4-AAA and save myself the headache... (and make for easier in-hilt recharge)
-
That's not necessarily a mess, that is how they are supposed to be wired. The two smaller led's are wired in series with each other, and then parallel to the main blade led, although, one resistor should have been enough for the two 4-pin leds...Which one blew out? The red Lux III for the blade? Those are notorious for grounding against the hilt and shorting out...I had one do that to me last week. Replace the led, and add some thermal tape underneath it to prevent it from happening again. you can get pads from here:
http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-emitters-10-p-455.php
or here:
http://www.led-tech.de/en/Technic-und-Supply/Tools-and-Material/Heat-Conductive-Pads-LT-671_29_40.html
-
It was the LED for the blade that blew. :'(
But I was just testing it. It wasn't even in the BH yet. It was just on the copper heatsink. :-\
Thanks, Master Qui-Gon. I'll try that.
-
It was the LED for the blade that blew. :'(
But I was just testing it. It wasn't even in the BH yet. It was just on the copper heatsink. :-\
Thanks, Master Qui-Gon. I'll try that.
Sometimes that is all it takes, i'm afraid.
-
Picked up some thermal tape and dropped voltage down to 6V (2 CR123s).
Works fine now! ;D
Thanks again, Master Qui-Gon. 8)
-
What kind of chargers are people including with sabers they sell to people who aren't saber geeks?
Obviously, the Tenergy Universal Smart Chargers (and their clones) are extremely handy if you have a variety of sabers. But for the average Joe/Joanne who buys just one saber (or maybe multiple sabers with the same battery setup), the Tenergy's are overkill, and may be a bit intimidating. And a simple block-style charger made for a single setup might be cheaper than a Tenergy charger.
So--assuming we're talking about a 2.1mm plug with a positive center pin--what are some simple (and preferably cheap) chargers for these common setups?
- 4.8V Ni-MH
- 7.2V Ni-MH
- 3.7V Li-Ion
- 7.4V Li-Ion
Maker and model numbers would be appreciated. Links would be even more appreciated.
I ask this because I have been struggling to make an idiot-proof, unscrew-the-pommel-and-swap-out-the-batteries set-up, and have concluded that it's not worth the effort. I have a test-user--a complete saber novice--for my prototype MHS-based Qui-Gon style saber (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/littlenemo1905/QuiGonJinnStyleSaber?feat=directlink), and he managed to break it within hours of receiving it. How's that saying go? There's always a better idiot? So I have decided that in the future, I will sell only rechargeable sabers.
Thanks in advance for any help.
-
i prefer the tenergy chargers. I express to the customer many times over, in many places, (mostly the saber manual) of what setting the charger should be set too.
For the price, ($25.00-$35.00), they are really the best universal charger.
-
For in-hilts, I only sell only the tenergy smart charger(li-ion or NIMH). I know that's not really what you are asking, but it is the easiest and your buyer may not just buy one saber.
Once they have one it's like pokemon fever or saberholics. ;D
It's also pretty idiot proof and works in just about every country, with adapters.
Providing your clients with some simple instruction on their use will ease their intimidation.
-
NEW QUESTION
im looking for some glass saber display cases can anyone point me in the right direction?
does anyone on here make them?
-
Not exactly "saber" cases, but you can check hobby stores, craft store for glass and mirrored display cases for model cars, trucks. They even have them for autographed foot balls.
-
;)
www.onlinemetal.com have them. ;D
-
For in-hilts, I only sell only the tenergy smart charger(li-ion or NIMH). I know that's not really what you are asking, but it is the easiest and your buyer may not just buy one saber.
Once they have one it's like pokemon fever or saberholics. ;D
It's also pretty idiot proof and works in just about every country, with adapters.
Providing your clients with some simple instruction on their use will ease their intimidation.
Same here.....it really is an easy charger to use. As you probably know already, you can get the charger and the adapter wire right from TCSS in your order for the saber parts, too. Makes it really easy that way.
-
I wanted to know if someone could please tell me what is the brightest led to use for a custom US 2.5 lightsaber. How is the 5watt Ledengin for green?
-
I wanted to know if someone could please tell me what is the brightest led to use for a custom US 2.5 lightsaber. How is the 5watt Ledengin for green?
It's bright. About as bright as a Luxeon V. Those two led's are the brightest you can get for use with an Ultrasound, I believe. The Ledengin is probably more cost effective than the Luxeon V, though.
-
How would I go about throwing in more, smaller LED's in my hilt - circuit-wise?
I have batteries to switch to buck puck to Seoul P4 to batteries. I'd like to throw in 2-3 smaller LEDs for hilt accents.
;D
-
How would I go about throwing in more, smaller LED's in my hilt - circuit-wise?
I have batteries to switch to buck puck to Seoul P4 to batteries. I'd like to throw in 2-3 smaller LEDs for hilt accents.
;D
Generally we use smaller resistors to limit the current goin to the accent LEDs.
Check out the resistor chart @ TCSS:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx
Click on the resistor chart tab, then select accent LED1 or 2 from the drop down menu, then select your battery type
-
Ah okay... I'm not too familiar with wiring, so in my mind it's been "complete circuit = equal voltage running all the way around".
Last time I plugged in some "accent" grade LEDs to that much voltage, they literally BLEW up. It was kind of funny. Until I realized that I had start over...
So, batteries -> switch -> buckpuck -> P4 -> resistor -> accent LEDs -> batteries?
Is there a way to have the accent LED's have a seperate switch or do they have to have their own separate circuit for that?
-
Best place ot get a switch nut for the latching guarded switches? Anyone?
-
Best place ot get a switch nut for the latching guarded switches? Anyone?
take the switch to ACE Hardware and start browsing the selection of nuts they have, I recently misplaced the SAME ONE and found one similar at ACE.
-
We don't have an Ace hardware... but the question i invalid. I have enough quarters and dimes to buy a new switch. lol ::) ::) Geeze this hobby is unforgiving. MHS = pricy. :D :D
-
OK, here's a fun question. My father in law wants to run 12 1W mini Lightsabers in his truck. Initially he was wanting to run 12x1W Led's, but now he wants to run Lightsabers. I've got twelve 12" long lightsabers built, but I can't figure out how to power them. I asked this a while ago and was looking at a different solution. Here's what I'm asking:
How would you run it?
12x1W Royal Blue LED's.
Supply voltage-12.6v-13v depending on engine RPM's.
Buck pucks, boost pucks, whatever....how do I do this?
-
is he even legally allowed to have Blue LEDs on his truck? Is MS is not legal, ...I assummed it was illegal elsewhere.
-
Back to my wiring question...
(just fried an amber bin 6 >:()
150 Ohm resistor on LED+ (for 4-pin LED #1)
150 Ohm resistor on LED- (for 4-pin LED #2)
LED+ is wired in series with the main (blade) LED; same for the LED-
I used my voltmeter...I'm getting 7.82V from 2 fully-charged Trustfire 14500s at the QD
(for comparison, 2.8V from 1 CR123, 5.85V from 4-AAA)
(and the board is fine...)
Help!
-
is he even legally allowed to have Blue LEDs on his truck? Is MS is not legal, ...I assummed it was illegal elsewhere.
Thats why he's going with 12" lightsabers instead of just the LED's.
-
why is it wrong to use the sound combo and recharge port together from TCSS
-
why is it wrong to use the sound combo and recharge port together from TCSS
because if you attempt to charge to individually protected Li-Ions cells together, one of them may reach the peak charge faster than the other, resulting in an uneven charge in your batteries. One battery's pcb will shut off, causing the other to only receive a partial, or incomplete charge. It's not some thing you want to do, as the partially charged battery will die sooner than the other one, and shut off your saber. You should recharge the Trustfire Li-Ions in a separate charger, outside the hilt, to ensure that both batteries are fully charged.
You can use a recharge port with the sound combo, but usually as a kill switch.
It is possible to use it with un protected cells, and wire in a protection pcb between the recharge port and the battery pack, though.
-
Back to my wiring question...
(just fried an amber bin 6 >:()
150 Ohm resistor on LED+ (for 4-pin LED #1)
150 Ohm resistor on LED- (for 4-pin LED #2)
LED+ is wired in series with the main (blade) LED; same for the LED-
I used my voltmeter...I'm getting 7.82V from 2 fully-charged Trustfire 14500s at the QD
(for comparison, 2.8V from 1 CR123, 5.85V from 4-AAA)
(and the board is fine...)
Help!
Just to unbury this...
-
Sorry Jasher, i have no idea why it's blowing leds....maybe another 'smith will chime in.
-
Sorry Jasher, i have no idea why it's blowing leds....maybe another 'smith will chime in.
Is 7+ volts enough to fry a Lux III?
(I need to go do some homework...)
-
Well, it's usually a combination of voltage and current that burns out the led's....it generates heat inside the led and melts the connections to the die. you do have a resistor in the circuit for the main led, don't you? If not, try reading through this:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9454
-
Thanx Qui Gon Jinn. How about the hyper blades? Why are they so bright, and what led do they use? How do you feel about them personally?
-
Aren't Hyper blades just like the MR blades with more powerful LEDs in them?
-
Aren't Hyper blades just like the MR blades with more powerful LEDs in them?
Yes, but they are more exspensive and a made in a different fashion. They are heavy, and like i said, exspensive. If you want a super bright blade with a scroll effect, Makotosai's blades are as bright if not brighter than a Hyperblade, and are much cheaper. ;) He offers a full range of colors including purple.
Might I add, having never owned one of either, that this is all based on other people's reviews and criticism.
-
Thanx Qui Gon Jinn. How about the hyper blades? Why are they so bright, and what led do they use? How do you feel about them personally?
I have no opinion on the hyper blades as I have never owned one.
-
Thanx Guys. Now how do I get pics next to my name, as far as inside the comment box and as a picture id?
-
Thanx Guys. Now how do I get pics next to my name, as far as inside the comment box and as a picture id?
Everything u need to know is here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=3725.0
-
Are the following electronics OK. Premium Speaker 2 3.7volt Li on....US 2.5.......recharge port......LUX V.......Need to know if I need Resistors or More batteries ..... ??? ???HELP ASAP
-
Are the following electronics OK. Premium Speaker 2 3.7volt Li on....US 2.5.......recharge port......LUX V.......Need to know if I need Resistors or More batteries ..... ??? ???HELP ASAP
no resistors needed, the setup is u have is fine.
-
Brillient thanks chewie
One more
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2F188_8854.jpg&hash=2ac573c291a26cb16646dabb39e609fdce3f3d5f)
can this be used with the 2.1 mm adaptor
-
I'm familiar with powder coating, but someone told me they use epoxy to paint their sabers. What is this epoxy paint and where can I get it?
-
epoxy can be bought at hobby shops and most retail paint outlets, (Sherwin Williams, etc).
I believe Aluke123 uses it from time to time, u may want to shoot him a PM about it. Some people cure it ovens, some let it air dry.
Works well from what I've seen, I had received a hilt that used epoxy paint for the "trim" and liked to never get the stuff off.
-
is there someone out there that could tell me what the internal diameter of the TCSS sink tubes are? as I want to make a new shroud for my Kel saber but my saber is about 35mm outer diameter and I want to make sure that it will slide on nicely Plus I don't realy understand the fractions of inches that well
-
Brillient thanks chewie
One more
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2F188_8854.jpg&hash=2ac573c291a26cb16646dabb39e609fdce3f3d5f)
can this be used with the 2.1 mm adaptor
No. You must remove the batteries an insert them into that charger to use it.
-
is there someone out there that could tell me what the internal diameter of the TCSS sink tubes are? as I want to make a new shroud for my Kel saber but my saber is about 35mm outer diameter and I want to make sure that it will slide on nicely Plus I don't realy understand the fractions of inches that well
As well as the question above I was looking into buying a DIY Kit from JQ Sabers in order to try and build my own saber but I do not know what sort of soldering tool to get, could someone please help me ?
Here is a link to the site page with the DIY Kit on it if that helps http://www.jqsabers.com/diykits.php plus I was looking at getting a Lux III green LED for it if that changes any thing for what soldering tool to use ???
-
I know Chewie uses a 30 watt soldering iron. I use the same.
That should be enough for your purposes. ;)
-
yep, ...30w is a good one. Radio Shack has some nice pen type soldering irons to choose from, many under $20.00
-
I have a 30W as well from my electronics classes in college. I haven't used it my as far as sabers are concerned. My hands swell real bad most of the time and shake a bit so I'm not the best for soldering. Mine has the base with a sponge holder, etc, but you dont really need it that fancy. Just make sure when you put it down it won't burn anything lol.
-
cool thanks for that I will have to look around for getting one as we haven't had a radio shack in my area of the UK for many years but I remember a friend of mine saying that when it was there you could nearly anything from there
-
cool thanks for that I will have to look around for getting one as we haven't had a radio shack in my area of the UK for many years but I remember a friend of mine saying that when it was there you could nearly anything from there
They do carry a lot of stuff.
as for a sponge, you will need a damp one ot wipe off your tips on to keep the "kleen" and safe from corrosion. A shallow bowl with some water and a damp sponge works well. A good stand can be made of metal electrical conduit attached to the side of your bench, or if you're like me, by, merely setting the iron in the drill press slots. ;D
-
This might be a long shot, but where can I find a screen accurate Obi-Wan ROTS saber that can be converted to a fx style saber?
-
The Parks MKIII kit would probably be the best, or one of Korbanth's runs :)
-
The Parks MKIII kit would probably be the best, or one of Korbanth's runs :)
I was looking at the MKIII but that is totally ANH saber and customs would have to be made. The biggest problem I see in the MKIII is that there is no round covertec piece like the ROTS. Instead, the part for the clip holder is part of the pumel and would leave holes when removed (don't want that). The bubble strip is not on the ROTS model but would be an easy swap. Also, there is a clip part on the controll box that isn't present on the ROTS and the metel around the controll box on the MKIII is a graflex (more like luke ANH, not solid like the ROTS). I have not seen Korbanth's runs. I will try to find it and look at it. If you find it before I do and know the link, let me know.
I found it. It is ANH Obi-Wan like the MKIII
Anyother ideas?
-
I know Korbanth does specialized ANH runs, sorry, I was thinking of the ANH edition...but with enough modification, it could easily become the ROTS hilt.
-
Hmmm, I guess I would have to go with an MKIII and find someone to modify and convert it. unless someone has a better solution.
-
Hey DY...
Just got my MKIII... LDM/General Grievous converted it....
Circuit Board can be swapped with a board from TFX Studios in Australia... the pommel can be switched out so that a ring isn't present.. .and a Covertec wheel can EASILY be placed on this...
Other parts... to make it more ROTS... Copper Mylar tape is what LDM placed on mine between the Emitter and Wind neck vane...
On the graflex clamp itself... a small gear and a red cover for the 2 parts sticking out can be placed...
would DEFINITELY make it very much a more ROTS saber :) (I'll be doing some of these cosmetic additions to mine)...
-
This might be a long shot, but where can I find a screen accurate Obi-Wan ROTS saber that can be converted to a fx style saber?
You could build your own out of MHS and other parts. I am very happy with mine.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=21108.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=21108.0)
-
This might be a long shot, but where can I find a screen accurate Obi-Wan ROTS saber that can be converted to a fx style saber?
You could build your own out of MHS and other parts. I am very happy with mine.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=21108.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=21108.0)
Yeah, I agree here. An MHS Obi is pretty tight...I know I am going to love he ANH "new and re-tooled" that LDM is doing for me. I also saw LDM's personal MHS ROTS Obi and it looks and feels great. DY, this is your best bet IMO.
-
Hey DY...
Just got my MKIII... LDM/General Grievous converted it....
Circuit Board can be swapped with a board from TFX Studios in Australia... the pommel can be switched out so that a ring isn't present.. .and a Covertec wheel can EASILY be placed on this...
Other parts... to make it more ROTS... Copper Mylar tape is what LDM placed on mine between the Emitter and Wind neck vane...
On the graflex clamp itself... a small gear and a red cover for the 2 parts sticking out can be placed...
would DEFINITELY make it very much a more ROTS saber :) (I'll be doing some of these cosmetic additions to mine)...
That makes me feel better that it is doable to change it. plus it being able to have fx quality ads a HUGE bonus. I can't believe how many sites, resources, pictures, and so forth I have now to make an accurate Obi-Wan costume! I feel that it will be worth it in the end. It seemed simple for thought but the more I get into it, the more I find. I am probably driving my seemstress nuts LOL. She is even planning a trip here to get accurate measurements. No stone is going to be left unturned this time around. ;D
-
I just had a thought after reading a thread where someone had a MR or Hasbro FX Saber but the sound got on there nerves so they were looking for a custom stunt saber, But any way my thought was is it possible to have a switch added in order for the sound to be turned off like a mute button on say the US 2.5 board?
-
I think I read something about an idea like this here or at TCSS... it seems to me they said you can by having the speaker on a separate switch or something like that... I'm not entirely certain... but I think that's what they said.
-
I just had a thought after reading a thread where someone had a MR or Hasbro FX Saber but the sound got on there nerves so they were looking for a custom stunt saber, But any way my thought was is it possible to have a switch added in order for the sound to be turned off like a mute button on say the US 2.5 board?
We did that here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=15149.0
removable battery pack w/on/off switch.
I think the details of it are in the video.
Edit:
The video showing the battery pack is here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=15149.msg239857#msg239857
-
I just had a thought after reading a thread where someone had a MR or Hasbro FX Saber but the sound got on there nerves so they were looking for a custom stunt saber, But any way my thought was is it possible to have a switch added in order for the sound to be turned off like a mute button on say the US 2.5 board?
We did that here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=15149.0
removable battery pack w/on/off switch.
I think the details of it are in the video.
Edit:
The video showing the battery pack is here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=15149.msg239857#msg239857
Fantastic saber that is and I am going to have to have that option added to my custom build (when I can afford it)
Another question I wanted to ask is about the US 2.5, with the sound FX (blaster deflect and lockup) are they done one one button or can a tacktile sort of switch be used to activate them?
-
It uses the same button.
I don't think the features could be separated to 2 different switches, but I'm not 100% sure...
I'd prefer the 2 switches as well. I really dislike going for a dramatic power-down and instead getting the lock-up effect. :P
-
I take it then that it is the CF boards that Erv makes that uses the 2 switches or am I wrong, as there is a saber that Erv made (that I realy want but it is his saber that he uses :'( ) which uses 2 switches I think
-
I take it then that it is the CF boards that Erv makes that uses the 2 switches or am I wrong, as there is a saber that Erv made (that I realy want but it is his saber that he uses :'( ) which uses 2 switches I think
correct, the CF uses a Momentary as the aux. button. The primary button can be latching or Momentary.
-
Everytime I bump the switch on my saber, the sound and light flash off momentarily (i.e., the mere instant I bump the switch) before flashing on again.
Any ideas what the problem may be?
-
Some switches have just a bit of bounce to them that can do that, especially these:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2Fsw03.jpg&hash=5cd1dc94cedffd1c2c6ae816ae972b31b3c36ce6)
but Ive also had some guarded switches that do that as well.
-
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/UltraSound-25-P472.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V3-P358.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-Speaker--P77.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-Battery-holder--P134.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/AA-2600mAh-NiMH-Rechargeable-battery-P474.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/24V-72V-Nimh-Smart-charger-P145.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-III-Star-P1.aspx (red)
If there is ANYTHING wrong with these electronics please say so ... Ang I mean anything... because I've already tried to order twice and its always been wrong because of my electronics ... and fair play to tim .. at least he pointed it out .. but I just dont want another failed order ... .. PLEASE BEBRUTALLY HONEST
-
The only issue i see is that he speaker holder is designed for a 2 AA Trustfire holder and not 4 AAA's. I think you want the V2 speaker holder.
What do you mean it's because of the electronics that you can't check out? I've made several orders from them, and never had that problem... and I order random parts that won't even build a lightsaber. :D
-
Actually Caden, if you re-read his post, he wants the 4-AA holder, not the 4-AAA holder, and he can use this battery holder with the v3 speaker mount:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2FDSC00228.JPG&hash=5ed790bf922280520cbddf095409ae724f8a840b)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2F164.jpg&hash=b3dd81cff950de1a2a52e07ef35e488dfa1f3583)
It is no different than using the 2-AA battery holder:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecustomsabershop.com%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2F188_8848.jpg&hash=473df94f64e668460c4760938dd8c35ff1d016f8)
I did it on another saber myself.
Everything else looks good to me Frodo.
-
I thought I was using AA bateries.. thanks for the advice about the speaker mount.
No its just I order everything and the electronics are always wrong and TIM is kind enough to point it out and let me cancel my order
-
Oops. I coulda swore that said AAA... Well. as i said, other than that, it all looks okay. Let me try ot check out with that stuff.
I can't as the Ultrasound and the NiMH charger are currently out of stock. How did you add those to your cart?
-
Oh, btw, if you don't already have them, you'll want optics and a holder, too.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-10-deg-viewing-angle-P5.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-IIIV-Lens-Holder--P7.aspx
-
So no resistors or fried boards or wrong batteries to worry about
-
On;y if you screw up wiring it up....with an Ultrasound, you don't need a resistor....that's the whole point of the Ultrasound, to not only provide sound FX, but also to regulate the voltage and current to the led for you, without a resistor.
-
and the batteries are powerful enough
-
and the batteries are powerful enough
Yes, if you want ot power a lux 3 (which you do) or a p4. So, everything you have will work.
-
Four of these:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/AA-2600mAh-NiMH-Rechargeable-battery-P474.aspx
will get you 4.8 volts, which is the correct voltage for an Ultrasound 2.5 running a Luxeon III or Seoul P4.
-
GREAT thanks guys
-
5 deg / 10 deg
which one points the light towards the tip
-
5 deg / 10 deg
which one points the light towards the tip
They BOTH do...the ten degree fits the holder better than the 5 degree, which is why I pointed you to that one. The 5 degree lens wasn't made to fit the holder that TCSS sells. I've used both in the past, and the ten degree works well in blades that are under 36" long, where the 5 degree is usually best for blades over 36", or thick-walled blades of any length.
-
Ordered ......1 of: Ultra Fast NIMH Charger
4 of: AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery
1 of: 4AA Battery holder
1 of: Luxeon III Star (Red)
1 of: Luxeon Collimator Lens 10 deg viewing angle
1 of: Screw on LED blade holder style 7
1 of: Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
1 of: MHS choke style 1 long
1 of: Hilt style 1 with standard style switch hole
1 of: MPS Insert style 7
1 of: MPS Pommel style 4
1 of: 8-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw
1 of: Powder Coating (Solar Flat Black, BH71)
1 of: Powder Coating (Solar Flat Black, C1L3)
1 of: Powder Coating (Solar Flat Black, SH11)
2 of: Powder Coating (Solar Flat Black, PM41)
1 of: Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
1 of: 1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
1 of: Premium Speaker
1 of: MHS speaker mount V3
1 of: SPST Momentary switch with black button
2 of: Dual 22 gauge wire
1 of: 1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing
1 of: Dual 18 gauge wire
Is it OK...besides the fact that the US2.5 is missing
-
BUMP
-
You don't need the 18ga wire...it is over kill for what you are doing. The 26ga. will work for everything in the saber. Otherwise, it looks like you have everything. This would be better if you posted it at TCSS in the "Parts List" section.
-
better go join their forums now
-
Anyone know the best procedure for laying out and attaching the esb grips to a graflex?
-
Anyone know the best procedure for laying out and attaching the esb grips to a graflex?
Use graph paper to mark the holes for distance first. Then use a glue stick to attach the paper to the hilt.
Drill your holes and remove the paper and glue residue.
Gabywan and Master Jedye have succesfully used this method for this conversion and other projects.
-
I have a problem with my Yoda Fx lightsaber. I'll swing it around for like 10 minutes and then when I try to remove the battery pack, the batteries have partially popped out. Its just enough to really annoy me and to take 20 minutes removing the battery pack. None of my other sabers do this. What may the problem be?
-
I have a problem with my Yoda Fx lightsaber. I'll swing it around for like 10 minutes and then when I try to remove the battery pack, the batteries have partially popped out. Its just enough to really annoy me and to take 20 minutes removing the battery pack. None of my other sabers do this. What may the problem be?
Wrap some tape around pack.
-
That's what I was thinking. I just didn't know if I should do that but now I know it's safe. Thanks Chewie. ;)
-
I just recieved wy copy of TFU USE for the PC but after waiting about 1 hour for it to install (exaggerating) it told me that my video card would not support this game.
But my Question is can you upgrade the video card on a Laptop? or do I need to sell the game and my Wii and get a PS3 or Xbow 360 and get it for that
-
It really depends on the laptop but for the most part no not easily. To be honest the price you would pay to get a laptop card that would play it at the same quality as the PS3 or Xbox360 it would be at least around the same price to just buy a new gaming console. there is alos no guarantee that after upgrading you wouldn't have another issue.
-
thanks I think that I am going to have to talk to the people who I bought the Laptop from and see what they can do either that or I will just have to sell my family as I can't realy afford to buy a new console :(
-
I am looking at changing the LED in my UltraFX luke ANH saber from Ultra Sabers but I do not know how to take it apart. I have tryed the search function but had no luck so my question is does anyone have an instruction guide on how to take it apart?
as I don't want to just try and work it out for myself and completly BEEP it up and end up spending even more money getting it fixed
-
I am looking at changing the LED in my UltraFX luke ANH saber from Ultra Sabers but I do not know how to take it apart. I have tryed the search function but had no luck so my question is does anyone have an instruction guide on how to take it apart?
as I don't want to just try and work it out for myself and completly BEEP it up and end up spending even more money getting it fixed
http://www.saberproject.de/mr/tutorials/lukeanh/lukeanhdemontage_e.html
-
I am looking at changing the LED in my UltraFX luke ANH saber from Ultra Sabers but I do not know how to take it apart. I have tryed the search function but had no luck so my question is does anyone have an instruction guide on how to take it apart?
as I don't want to just try and work it out for myself and completly BEEP it up and end up spending even more money getting it fixed
http://www.saberproject.de/mr/tutorials/lukeanh/lukeanhdemontage_e.html
thanks for that but as i was having a little go at the first few stages I found that I can't seem to get any of the glass eye bit out any advice?
-
We also have this:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=12876.0
and this:
http://www.ultrasabers.com/v/fxdiy/lukeanhconversion.pdf
posted on these forums. good luck with it, it is one of the easiest to do.
-
thanks guys that 2nd link was extreamly helpful now all I need is the LED and a soldering iron
-
I am creating a sink tube saber with a 4AAA battery pack and a Seoul P4 Green. What ohm resistor will I need?
-
I thank A 1.2ohm 3w resistor should do.
-
This is a concept drawing to what I think the saber will look like when finished. Any advice would be much appreciated. ;D
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi971.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae193%2FGeneralVeers%2FConceptualDrawingformyfirstsaber.jpg&hash=c5685fec04e10f90f33427e2f8cfce7009bc392c)
-
This is a concept drawing to what I think the saber will look like when finished. Any advice would be much appreciated. ;D
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi971.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae193%2FGeneralVeers%2FConceptualDrawingformyfirstsaber.jpg&hash=c5685fec04e10f90f33427e2f8cfce7009bc392c)
What kind of advice are looking for? That looks fairly straight forward.....a 1 1/4" diameter sinktube, and MHS to 1 1/4" sinktube adapter, a short ver. 1 choke, and a style 18 blade holder. should be simple enough to build. It might be a little top heavy, though, depending on how long you intend to make it.
-
This is a concept drawing to what I think the saber will look like when finished. Any advice would be much appreciated. ;D
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi971.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae193%2FGeneralVeers%2FConceptualDrawingformyfirstsaber.jpg&hash=c5685fec04e10f90f33427e2f8cfce7009bc392c)
What kind of advice are looking for? That looks fairly straight forward.....a 1 1/4" diameter sinktube, and MHS to 1 1/4" sinktube adapter, a short ver. 1 choke, and a style 18 blade holder. should be simple enough to build. It might be a little top heavy, though, depending on how long you intend to make it.
Will be top heavy. That A- ok to me. May install a cheapo Hasbro board. Still deciding.
-
How would you guys attatch some overlays without using screws .. I was thinking some JB weld???
-
I use two-part epoxy resin.
-
Ah .. excellent thanks qui gon
-
I was looking a batteries on the TCSS site and I wondered if any of these Batteries were ok to use?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Faa2600x1_t.jpg&hash=6643026e6f845f1ee6fd97a5d5fde27ba3536192) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Faaa2600x1_t.jpg&hash=3e26022c4eec3a22a04938a5d8aecf17537d8179) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2FLi-ion-3_7V-900mAh_t.jpg&hash=302ef559987ef33e1aebab2d32ef92c3c7b81a2c) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2FTrustfirebatteries.jpg&hash=65e7645819b91543814972ef92dce33084744658)
as I remember reading somewhere that the TrustFire batteries were no good but I can't remember where I read it plus it maybe a load of rubbish
Also can the SPST Momentary tactile switch be used as a activation button? as I want to change the power switch on my UltraFX luke ANH
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2F168_6833_t.jpg&hash=70642935d78ca38c2d16e0b6f682b88e33fc31ab)
-
The tactile is a momentary, so no, it can't activate a MR board without you holding it in the on position.
The NiMH's are all good. I have four coming to me right now. The Trustfire I don't know about. I think if they are protected it is okay for in hilt. Otherwise they must be removed in order to charge them.
But I might be wrong. ;) Qui-gon will know.
-
thanks Caden but what sort of switch should I use as I want a small push on/off switch on the top of the control box instead of the sliding switch
-
any of these
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Latching-C25.aspx
-
Hmmm.... I can't really tell you. Most people use thos switches to activate clash and lock up or to activate a US or CF board. Check your local R/C shops, and ask for micro switches. They might be able ot help you. Radioshack might also have something, but I've never had luck with their switches. The spring lose all rigidity after you solder to the poles. :-X :-\
Frodo, i see you posted TCSS's list. He want something to sit on the edge of the box towards the Emitter, facing up. That way he can't bump it. But none of those switches are small enough. ;) 8)
-
I want it on the top of the control box where I am pointing in this pic
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2F30112009372.jpg&hash=c085e1fcd79cffdd2aeb948e0e86ea553b86e3ff)
as I was also looking at changing the bubble strip to a card like the ESB version
-
Ooohhhh... i see now. I thought you meant that it needed to go where you wouldn't bump it accidentally. :D :P Hmm... still no good. It seems someone had a way to run an MR board with a momentary switch... let me search. Be right back!
EDIT: I found it! http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20234.0
Eastern has a way! I don't know if it'll fit though.
-
Thanks again Caden I'm not clued up on electronics at all but I'm trying to learn, so the momentary switch anly completes the circuet when you hold it down and a latching switch locks it down like a light switch.
am I right?
but if anything I might be able to use this Push on/push off switch with red button
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Fsw02_t.jpg&hash=b3258606cb78ae0e8fbbea3125703621951f60e6)
If I can take it apart a bit so that I can wire it strait to the switch instead of connecting it to the trailing wires if you can understand what I mean
this edited pic may explane what I mean better
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Fsw02_t2.jpg&hash=a635ab63ee9948d7c13364ec38c8331b8fdb091c)
Is this possible?
-
Hey guys just an idea in my head for along time for a crystal chasis (very basic) but here it is .... to hide wires can I thread them through aluminium pipe .... also what kind LED's are used to illuminate the crystal ... are they the ones with 1 small leg and 1 long leg
-
5 mm, or 3 mm... that's the size typically used.
Now for my question.
i just got my premium speaker from TCSS. I'm mock wiring ot check the soandboard's functionality. It did work fully last time I used it, but unfortunately, there is no sound. Is there a special way ot wire the speaker? Or is it perhaps a bad speaker?
-
Might be a bad speaker caden, ....we sure have gotten a few of them DOA right outta the box from TCSS.
The + or - can be either side of the speaker, ...so the wiring is pretty straight forward and easy
Sorry bro
-
Crap... I tested with a toy hasbro speaker... it's definitely a bad speaker. Oh well... I guess i'll subsist with a cheap radioshack one. I'll not order any premium speakers...
It's like someone doesn't want me to complete this saber. First stolen parts, and now a bad speaker.... ::) :P
-
Could someone please tell me the sizes of this switch (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Fsw02_t.jpg&hash=b3258606cb78ae0e8fbbea3125703621951f60e6) as I want to make sure it is small enough for my Luke ANH mods
the sizes I need to know are
hight from bottom to the top of the black bit and the outer diameter (but could the measurements be in mm please)
-
I am making a sink tube saber (as I'm sure some of you know) and I really want to give it a weathered look. What would be the easiest and quickest way to do this and still make it looke good?
-
I am making a sink tube saber (as I'm sure some of you know) and I really want to give it a weathered look. What would be the easiest and quickest way to do this and still make it looke good?
Veers,
Bookmark the thread below... it's a quick-guide to a bunch of tutorials... one of them deals with weathering a saber. ;)
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20332.0
-
I am making a sink tube saber (as I'm sure some of you know) and I really want to give it a weathered look. What would be the easiest and quickest way to do this and still make it looke good?
Veers,
Bookmark the thread below... it's a quick-guide to a bunch of tutorials... one of them deals with weathering a saber. ;)
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20332.0
Thanks, but what about painting the saber, not like physically destroying it?
-
That is an option. a few different shades of paint, a little sandpaper, and you have a weathered saber. be sure ot clear coat it so that the paint won't rub off through handling.
-
You could always just let your kid play with it :P LOL http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=21235.0
-
I found a switch from an old broken tool that I can use for my UltraFX Luke ANH mods, but my question is that it has a resistor on it and I wasnt sure if it needed to stay on it or if the MR/Hasbro boards have all the resistor stuff on them?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2F03122009373.jpg&hash=cc37e1fdf4d18111ab583b628171366a22e46b46) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2F03122009375.jpg&hash=df963aedb45800cb3c0bd7a2d2e7413bce0b7f2c)
-
Hmm... I don't think it should need a resistor. What did it come off of?
-
Does anyone know a good place to get a sink tube that is not chrome plated brass but solid stainless or some silver metal to match the chrome? I cant stand the two tone look on the edge when you pierce out your design and cant bring myself to make it all brass! ::) I guess the chrome can be reapplied but...any suggestions would be great!
-
Hmm... I don't think it should need a resistor. What did it come off of?
It came from one of those lazer leveler things for hanging things so basicly they are level
-
Ohh... I don't really know. If it was from a saw or something similar, then I'd have said no. But for this case... i don't know.
as for the stainless or solid silvery metals tubing, the only thing I can think of is an aluminum body machined very thinly, like a sinktube. I don't know how strong that would be, nut maybe a machined overlay would work.
-
Ohh... I don't really know. If it was from a saw or something similar, then I'd have said no. But for this case... i don't know.
what would it do if I left it on?
-
I would assume it would reduce the amount of power to the switch, the same way it would change the amout ot the LED in direct driving. What voltage were the batteries the level?
What kind of saber electronics do you have going?
-
I would assume it would reduce the amount of power to the switch, the same way it would change the amout ot the LED in direct driving. What voltage were the batteries the level?
What kind of saber electronics do you have going?
It was x2 stardard 1.5v AAA batteries and the saber is a Hasbro Luke ANH converted by ultra sabers so I am guessing that it is the same electronics as the standard stock saber apart from the converted bits
-
all you can do is try it with the switch, and with out it. There's no need ot modify your switch box, but you can temp wire the switch and try to run it with the resistor and then without the resistor. It may not need it. I'm not sure with the whole sound board thing.
-
all you can do is try it with the switch, and with out it. There's no need ot modify your switch box, but you can temp wire the switch and try to run it with the resistor and then without the resistor. It may not need it. I'm not sure with the whole sound board thing.
thank you my friend you have been very helpful
-
I am doing a mod and need to know something before I set where the lens is at. Since I don't have a an ultra fx blade, I need to know the measurement from the bottom of the blade to the middle of the screw hole.
-
I am doing a mod and need to know something before I set where the lens is at. Since I don't have a an ultra fx blade, I need to know the measurement from the bottom of the blade to the middle of the screw hole.
of what hilt?
-
I just need the measurement off the ultrafx blade. from the base of the blade to the midle of the screw hole.
-
OMG I'M BLIND!!! Did a test run to make sure all solder stuff was good. Have an Lux3 royal blue. OMG! I never understood how bright untill now! MY EYES! Anywho, I still need that measurement so i can set this stuff up! Just need the measurement of the blade, from the base to the screw hole of the blade, not the hilt!
-
The milled section on an Ultra FX blade is around 2 and 1/8th inches or about 51mm... not sure what you mean by screw hole....
-
Nevermind, I found what I was looking for. Got the saber put back together and am now a proud owner of a Luke ANH Modified saber!!! ;D I'm so proud of myself, it looks like a professional install too! Thank you QUI-GON JINN for all your help! Not going to do a tutorial or anything. There is a listing on the Data Sheets section anyway. There were two things I did different. One: hot glued the clash sensor in place to make it super sensitive and Two: I didn't use the white plastic piece he mentioned, because mine was WAY too small so I hot glued it in place and stuck a medel pin under it all for stability. Man, the original blade is no good. I need the ultrafx blade BAD! Hope I can get one soon!
-
Congrats on finishing your saber! ;D ;D ;D
-
One note, I see people accidentally looking into the LED when rigging it up all the time. This LED acts as a laser, and in simple terms, basically burns your retinas. Prolonged exposure can cause eye damage AND lead to blindness. As a safety precaution, if it could turn on and be shining in your eyes, I would recommend wearing dark sunglasses with solar protection as you begin testing it. This will reflect a lot of the light-waves back and protect your eyes if something does go wrong.
Just a possible helpful hint.
-
Thanks, will keep that in mind. I had no idea that it was THAT bright! Most say they are that bright, but one truely don't know until you see one in person. WOW! I don't know if I could stand any brighter!
-
You'd be surprised how many people don't understand what CLASS II LASER means. When we were selling the sabers, I had to bat the hilts away from people looking into the hilts after I told them to NOT LOOK INTO THE HILT.
Silly me though. Of course when someone tells you "if you look into the hilt, it could damage your eyes." what's the first thing you're going to do?
-
HAHAHA Funny! I didn't have it all together and wanted to make sure I didn't see any sparks or smoke anywhere and I was looking at the solder points on the led when i switched it on. that was a blast of light! I felt like Gizmo when Billy turned on the light! HAHAHA BIRGHT LIGHT, BRIGHT LIGHT!
-
I would recommend wearing dark sunglasses with solar protection as you begin testing it. This will reflect a lot of the light-waves back and protect your eyes if something does go wrong.
it also means you can look cool 8) when you have completed it LOL ;D
-
it also means you can look cool 8) when you have completed it LOL ;D
SWEET!!! ;D 8) ;D
-
How snuggly do TCSS blades fit their emitters?
-
The TCSS blades are a good tight fit with the TCSS blade holders. They do not require sanding like ultrablades for the holders.
-
The TCSS blades are a good tight fit with the TCSS blade holders. They do not require sanding like ultrablades for the holders.
Thanks man! I was just wondering ;)
-
The TCSS blades are a good tight fit with the TCSS blade holders. They do not require sanding like ultrablades for the holders.
Thanks man! I was just wondering ;)
Np, glad to help out :)
-
What resistor will I need with a P4 4AAA battery setup?
-
Sorry for all the questions. How's a Lux III white LED with color filters. I mean, how much brightness do you loose?
-
Compared to a P4 White? Quite a bit. The P4 White is a lot brighter. I can't give you the exact lumen math, but I can tell you that you'd probably want to stick with the P4, the power requirements are about the same but it is definitely brighter.
-
Compared to a P4 White? Quite a bit. The P4 White is a lot brighter. I can't give you the exact lumen math, but I can tell you that you'd probably want to stick with the P4, the power requirements are about the same but it is definitely brighter.
They don't have white P4's at TCSS. Where can I get one?
-
I'm not at home so I can't get you anything from my stored links. Mouser electronics should have a u-bin P4 white. I'll be home in a few hours and post a link if no one else has been then.
-
Tim normally sells white P4s, he may just be out of stock. You may want to give it a day or so. The also sell them on dealextreme.com (slow but cheap). Make sure you get the u-bin. As Darth Gius said, the Lux III white doesn't hold a candle to the P4 u-bin ;)
-
Tim normally sells white P4s, he may just be out of stock. You may want to give it a day or so. The also sell them on dealextreme.com (slow but cheap). Make sure you get the u-bin. As Darth Gius said, the Lux III white doesn't hold a candle to the P4 u-bin ;)
Very wise, Darth Gius. ;D
-
Can someone tell me how to post small pics inline with the post that blow up to bigger? I tried to find the code for how to do it and know i saw it somewhere... but I am utterly failing to find it again (yes even using the search...).
Thanks
-
Can someone tell me how to post small pics inline with the post that blow up to bigger? I tried to find the code for how to do it and know i saw it somewhere... but I am utterly failing to find it again (yes even using the search...).
Thanks
From the Padawan's Training Room section of the site:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=11435.0
That topic will tell you all you need to know about posting "clickable pics" on these forums! ;)
-
Thanks!!! i knew it was somewhere, just couldn't find it browsing or searching.
Help is much appreciated!!
-
No problem, it's what we're here for! ;)
-
This is my 1st time in forum, and owning a saber. Soory in advance for ignorence; I have ordered a US Satandard Issue white balde. I was just wondering how had it will be to change the white led that comes with that to The LXHL-LE5C Cyan Luxeon® V Star is part of the world's brightest LEDs with power and superb lumen maintenance that far exceeds other standard and high-flux LEDs.-I pasted that from the luxeon web site as not to miss any details. I am not skilled in doing the conversion, just was wondering the difficulty level, or if it had been done before. I watched a youtube vid once of a saber owner changing the LED like 3 times. Each was a different color, that looked pretty cool, so I was wondering if it could be done with the US standard issue.
Thanks for your time and help
DarthBlkJak
-
Welcome to the forums blkjak.
The entire optics assembly and heat sink will need to be replaced, as well as the power supply and LED driver.
Not entirely a hard job, nor a whole lot of work.
You seem to already know most of the specs of the LUX V star already so u shouldnt have much issue with the conversion.
Optionally, and easier way to ensure you get all your components would be to order the LUX V electronics kit from TCSS:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Luxeon-V-Electronics-Kit-P136.aspx
You will still need to make a heat sink that will fit the Standard issue though, and bigger one than supplied with the P4.
-
Perfect! Decent price for the kit and looks like it will fit nicely. My saber should be here in a few days!!! My 2 fav colors are the Cyan and White. That's all the colors I need. Everything else mod wise will be done to the hilt(s) of sabers. Seems like for basic sound most go with the US 2.5, and for sound options the CF 4.xx and the Novastar cds. I love my new hobby! ;D
-
Perfect! Decent price for the kit and looks like it will fit nicely. My saber should be here in a few days!!! My 2 fav colors are the Cyan and White. That's all the colors I need. Everything else mod wise will be done to the hilt(s) of sabers. Seems like for basic sound most go with the US 2.5, and for sound options the CF 4.xx and the Novastar cds. I love my new hobby! ;D
Also, ...you can try this heat sink, ....It should fit in the Standard issue:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-star-heatsink--P220.aspx
May have to be "creative" to secure the entire heat sink/optics solution, but I dont have a Standard Issue on hand to experiment.
As far as sound options, ....not sure the ID of the Standard Issue will support much other than a MR Yoda board or economy hasbro board, neither of which will handle a LUX V without a whole lot more going on internally.
-
Also, remember that the Lux V and the P4 have different power requirements. So, you can't just swap out between them, without something like an Ultrasound 2.5 to switch between voltages. Also, I know there were some issues with the UltraSound 2.5 and using a 7.2V setup with a Lux 3 type LED. however, that may have only been red, but again, something you may just want to double check on.
-
Also, remember that the Lux V and the P4 have different power requirements. So, you can't just swap out between them, without something like an Ultrasound 2.5 to switch between voltages.
Implied that already:
Welcome to the forums blkjak.
The entire optics assembly and heat sink will need to be replaced, as well as the power supply and LED driver.
Not entirely a hard job, nor a whole lot of work.
You seem to already know most of the specs of the LUX V star already so u shouldnt have much issue with the conversion.
Also, I know there were some issues with the UltraSound 2.5 and using a 7.2V setup with a Lux 3 type LED. however, that may have only been red, but again, something you may just want to double check on.
Not just red, ANY setup other than the LUX V should have no more than 6v when using the US2.5
-
ok I have a Question, i was just wandering how to change your user name?
-
ok I have a Question, i was just wandering how to change your user name?
Send a PM to either HAN SOLO, OBI-WAN KENOBI, or LUKE SKYWALKER with your desired new screen name. don't make a habit of it though. Try to pick one that you will be comfortable with afterward.
-
thanks.
-
Are these the right o-rings to hold the MPS insert inplace? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-316-ID-Black-O-ring--P182.aspx
I cant seem to find what it in search. Many thanks! ;)
-
this may help and its fun to watch
Good timing Qui gon :D
&feature=sub
-
Ha! I dont know how I missed that! :D I was watching these this morning! :-[
Thanks for the quick reply DF! ;) And thanks again Master QG!!
-
I just uploaded that, that's why you missed it. ;)
It's a #18 at the do-It Best hardware store in town here, and the dimensions are :
1-3/16" x 15/16" x 1/8"
-
How would I go about getting someone to install an ultrasound 2.5. I have limited skills on saber building and need a pro to do it for me. Is there a way you could help me find out where to get sound board installs? Oh, BTW thanks Moderators for this thread.
-
Check out the mining colony. Nearly all the smiths offer US soundboard install services. Just contact one you want ot do it. They are all friendly and none will bite your head off. :D
-
I keep trying to upload my own avatar from my pc's "my pictures" file and the site keeps saying upload is unwritable or something like that. How do I upload my own avatar
-
the pic has to be a max of 80X 80X
-
80X? What does that mean?
-
I keep trying to upload my own avatar from my pc's "my pictures" file and the site keeps saying upload is unwritable or something like that. How do I upload my own avatar
check out this thread it should help ;D http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=3725.0
-
pixels ;) 80x 80 x pixels ok
-
I'm all about extreme prop accuracy so i'm wondering if obi wan changed his saber between ROTS and ANH because MR seem to think so
This is what started it
Mk 3
http://graflexsabers.com/mkiii.html
MR rots
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=15715.0
-
put copper tape on the emitter area
http://cgi.ebay.com/Conductive-Copper-Foil-Tape-1-in-x-10-feet-EMI-ESD_W0QQitemZ290382772336QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item439c297870 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Conductive-Copper-Foil-Tape-1-in-x-10-feet-EMI-ESD_W0QQitemZ290382772336QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item439c297870)
CIRCUIT card
http://tfxstudios.vstore.ca/product_info.php/cPath/1/products_id/58 (http://tfxstudios.vstore.ca/product_info.php/cPath/1/products_id/58)
and a Black Covertec clip :)
-
A few things changed.
ROTS ANH
circuit board bubble strip
Covertech on the gear section D-ring on the pommel
no lever lever on the side of the clamp
static buttons on the clamp no static buttons
I think that's all.
-
Thanks Ben
but what about the neck ROTS is way longer
-
A few things changed.
ROTS ANH
circuit board bubble strip
Covertech on the gear section D-ring on the pommel
no lever lever on the side of the clamp
static buttons on the clamp no static buttons
I think that's all.
On the ANH version there were resistors that kind of look like buttons though.
-
Thanks Ben
but what about the neck ROTS is way longer
You know how when fat women wear black clothes, it makes them look thinner? Same thing with the ANH neck.
Neck length is the same. Neck color is different. (You forgot this one, Ben).
ROTS: Copper between emitter and "weather vane"; gold "weather vane" and gold neck up to grenade section.
ANH: Black neck and "weather vane."
-
Thanks Ben
but what about the neck ROTS is way longer
You know how when fat women wear black clothes, it makes them look thinner? Same thing with the ANH neck.
Hey it works for us fat guys too. lol
He does have a point that they are all equal in size, but deceiving due to the color.
-
Excellent
Thanks again guys
-
There is a thread where you can get the Master Replicas tags and I want to know how to put one in my signature. Do I copy and paste, or what?
Thanks for the help.
-
Are 5mm LED 's the same thing as accent LED's
-
Are 5mm LED 's the same thing as accent LED's
Yup.
-
There is a thread where you can get the Master Replicas tags and I want to know how to put one in my signature. Do I copy and paste, or what?
Thanks for the help.
you'll need to upload those tags to your own photobucket or other image hosting site before you add them to your signature file area in your profile. You'll notice there are a few members and even mods that no longer have their sigs posted due to being hosted on an inactive PB account that isn't theirs. After that, it is a simple matter of copying/pasting the "image" or [img] tags into your sig file area.
-
Are 5mm LED 's the same thing as accent LED's
Yup.
True, but I recommend 3mm ones. Feel free to PM me if you need special colors.
-
So I got a new blade for one of my lightsabers, the blade is a bit to big to fit in, I've heard that this does happen with some sabers, do you suggest that I just sand it down with some sand paper or is there a better way to go about this?
-
Yes, sanding it down a little is probably the best way to go about it. Just make sure to put a cotton ball or something similar in the end of the blade so loose shavings don't go in it.
-
I'm gonna be using a graflex clamp on my next saber (under a 2 in. extension) and was wondering if epoxy or something will be needed to keep it on the extension.
Thanks in advance!
GV
-
I'm gonna be using a graflex clamp on my next saber (under a 2 in. extension) and was wondering if epoxy or something will be needed to keep it on the extension.
No epoxy required. Just tighten the clamp.
-
Thanks JK!
-
I'm gonna be using a graflex clamp on my next saber (under a 2 in. extension) and was wondering if epoxy or something will be needed to keep it on the extension.
Thanks in advance!
GV
Keep in mind, if you are using MHS the Graflex clamp will not fit correctly. You will have to use a piece of sink tube under it to shim it. (MHS pieces are smaller than 1 1/2" diameter) mine measures 1.450"
-
My you tube subscription videos aren't showing up .. can anyone help .. i cant miss any of your videos
-
My you tube subscription videos aren't showing up .. can anyone help .. i cant miss any of your videos
about once every 3 months, I have to reset my spam filter because the influx of messages trigger the filter.
Check your spam settings, check your spam folder
-
I cant find it chewie .. where abouts is it thanks
-
I cant find it chewie .. where abouts is it thanks
Are we talking about email notifications from youtube? Thats what I m referring to. If we're on the same page, then we would need to know what what mail client u are using, or if u are using webmail.
-
I'm using g mail and i deleted my spam folder and every e-mail from you tube but still no change
-
Bought some 24 g. wiring for a projet and when I got home I saw it had the word "riser" on it, I stripped and it wasn't a whole bunch of small wires just one solid one. Is this a problem?
-
It may be harder to work with, but I can't see it being a problem in any other way.
-
Awesome! Thanks!
-
Does anyone know where to get a pointy tipped lightsaber blade like in ROTS?
-
Does anyone know where to get a pointy tipped lightsaber blade like in ROTS?
TCSS I thought.
-
TCSS carries those tips.
-
Yup Here ya go
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bullet-shaped-tip-for-1-thin-walled-blades-P361.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bullet-shaped-tip-for-1-thin-walled-blades-P361.aspx)
-
Do you guys know if the pointy tip from TCSS will fit a blade from hyperdyne?
-
Everytime I try to upload a video to Photobucket it stops at like 60 percent and it is really starting to bug me. Anyone know why?
-
Everytime I try to upload a video to Photobucket it stops at like 60 percent and it is really starting to bug me. Anyone know why?
No...but if it's any consolation, it happens to me too. :P
-
Here's a few things I've discovered.
1. Don't load more than a couple images at a time.
2. Don't have any other windows open.
3. If neither of those work, jump up and down and scream at it until the powers of Ra force it into submitting to your will.
If none of those work, just wait until tomorrow, as they me be working on the site right now, so it's having issues. Happens ot me all the time. Also, Firefox seems ot do it more the IE.
-
3. If neither of those work, jump up and down and scream at it until the powers of Ra force it into submitting to your will.
lol :D
That's something Ben Skywalker would write...
-
I have a quick question for some of the guys and gals that are using p4s day in and day out.
How little of a heatsink can you get away with using the red p4? My latest build has gotten so tight that I needed some extra space. I'm using a TCSS sinktube bladeholder to hold the optics with a finned heatsink.
I have cut the sink down so that it is only the thicker part where the led mounts and then one extra fin. Do you think the red P4 will get enough relief running off a v2 driver?
in case I did a bad job explaining here is the HS pre-cut. (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi649.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu219%2Fpneumoniaprone%2Fth_IMG_0886.jpg&hash=899afcbc8cf9a355c31c5a70ff599c559b28db30) (http://s649.photobucket.com/albums/uu219/pneumoniaprone/?action=view¤t=IMG_0886.jpg)
-
I have a quick question for some of the guys and gals that are using p4s day in and day out.
How little of a heatsink can you get away with using the red p4? My latest build has gotten so tight that I needed some extra space. I'm using a TCSS sinktube bladeholder to hold the optics with a finned heatsink.
I have cut the sink down so that it is only the thicker part where the led mounts and then one extra fin. Do you think the red P4 will get enough relief running off a v2 driver?
in case I did a bad job explaining here is the HS pre-cut. (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi649.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu219%2Fpneumoniaprone%2Fth_IMG_0886.jpg&hash=899afcbc8cf9a355c31c5a70ff599c559b28db30) (http://s649.photobucket.com/albums/uu219/pneumoniaprone/?action=view¤t=IMG_0886.jpg)
I cut those heatsinks off all the time...it'll work just fine.
-
Thanks QGJ.
I really appreciate the help with that.
-
;D
Is anyone going to the new york toy fair?If so Pics please of the new hasbro fx's for this year!! ;D
-
Hey everyone, working on a project here and I was wondering what size sink tube will fit snug over 1.25 sinktube and where can I get some? Thanks!
-
Want to make an ultra style blade with parts from TCSS. The blade will probably be 36 in long. What if the blade film is not? What do I do?
-
Want to make an ultra style blade with parts from TCSS. The blade will probably be 36 in long. What if the blade film is not? What do I do?
Then u get new film, 35" or longer, then cut to fit. Anything less, ....(if u have to patchwork it), will show the joining line and will be noticable.
-
with all of the electronic soundboards do you think hasbro toy soundboards can be used/Users/lucarastelli/Desktop/500px-Tyvokka.jpg
-
with all of the electronic soundboards do you think hasbro toy soundboards can be used/Users/lucarastelli/Desktop/500px-Tyvokka.jpg
Toy Hasbro soundboards have been used for years in custom sabers, so yes.
-
I am going to convert my larbel qui gon jinn non EL to a stunt with a 10mm Square rebel led (green) at 1000ma and I have a some questions
What type of resistor should I use? (my battery pack will be 7.4v 1200mah battery pack)
What is + (is it C or it it A) and what is - (is it C or it it A) on the led?
Thanks
GK
-
Why are you using a 7.4 volt battery pack to power an led that only requires 3.15 volts? That's overkill, and you'd be wasting the extra voltage as heat. Just use a single 3.7 volt Li-ion to power it. There are posts in this very topic that explain how to figure out what resistor to use for a given set up.
-
The battery type is a 10440 trustfire at 3.7v 600mah, but I want the led to be driven at 1000ma.
-
The battery type is a 10440 trustfire at 3.7v 600ma, but I want the led to be driven at 1000ma.
It will be...you are confusing the rating for how long the battery will last with how much actual current the battery will allow to be drawn out under load (ex. when the led is on). They are two totally different things. You also missed the ma"H" on the rating for that battery...it stands for "milliamps per hour." Like Novastar said over at TCSS, "10 miles is not the same as 10 miles per hour."
-
You also missed the ma"H" on the rating for that battery...it stands for "milliamps per hour." Like Novastar said over at TCSS, "10 miles is not the same as 10 miles per hour."
fixed it. ;)
here is the battery link.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30788 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30788)
-
Oh, one more thing....when you put two batteries in a series connection to double the voltage, you do not double the current rating....a 7.4 volt pack made with those batteries would still only have 600maH of runtime. To double the runtime, you put the batteries into a parallel connection, and the voltage will remain 4.7v, while the maH rating will double to 1200maH.
-
Oh, one more thing....when you put two batteries in a series connection to double the voltage, you do not double the current rating....a 7.4 volt pack made with those batteries would still only have 600maH of runtime. To double the runtime, you put the batteries into a parallel connection, and the voltage will remain 4.7v, while the maH rating will double to 1200maH.
cool!!!
also What is + (is it C or it it A) and what is - (is it C or it it A) on the led pcb?
-
Here's the info on those batteries:
- With integrated PCB Protection
- Over current protection current: 4A
- Over current protection voltage: 0.2V
- Over charging protection voltage: 4.25V +/- 25mV
- Over discharging protection voltage: 2.5V +/- 50mV
- Lithium Ion 10440 cylindrical rechargeable batteries
- Lighting or other device needing 3.7V power
- Product print '600mAh', the exact capacity is 350mAh
Things to note are in yellow....the batteries' pcb's will not allow anymore than 4 amps, or 4000ma to be drawn from them when under load, so that's good....but the maH rating you need to look at again....350mah is the actual runtime....which means that at 1000ma, or 1 A, you'll only get .35 hours of runtime with a single battery, or 700maH with a pair in parallel. Less than an hour either way. you might want to consider a larger battery if you can use one.
As for the C and A on the led, Cathode (C) is the negative and Anode (A) is the positive.
-
A Seoul P4 in my Obi Wan saber fried >:( At least thats all I hope it was and not something with the board. Anywho, I purchased a Royal Blue Lux III. How do these LED's look. Obviously not as bright but do they have a good color?
-
It will be considerably dimmer than the P4 and a much darker color.
If u like that, then u'll be happy.
-
Royal blue is very very dim, but a beautiful dark blue color. The light it shines almost resembles purple.
-
I used royal Blue led's in two sabers for Jedi Knight Logan:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FChrome%2520Saber%252013%2F100_4676.jpg&hash=68be78e47101b9b5aad9fb58a5758a40524890c7) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2013/100_4676.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FChrome%2520Saber%252016%2F100_4506.jpg&hash=85af2da1a37bc625040dcf530e3d35c75c36cd92) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2016/100_4506.jpg)
Neither of them looked very, very dim to me....they weren't as bright as a P4, but they were still pretty bright.
-
Cool! Thanks guys! ;)
-
All right. I tested an LED that works and NOTHING! THE BOARD HAS STOPPED DRIVING THE LEDS!!!!! WHAT DO I DO????? PLEASE HELP!!!!!
-
1. Does the board still put out sound?
2. What board are you using?
3. Are your connections secure?
4. Do you have it wired properly? (i.e., if using an MR Yoda, it wires differently than the other boards...thus Q#2).
5. Are you using fresh batteries?
6. Is the power source enough to power the LED?
Technically, unless you're using a US or CF board, the board does not "drive" the LED, per se. It just distributes current to that part of the circuit.
-
1. Board still puts out sound
2. MR Luke ROTJ 2005 board
3. Connections tested and secure
4. Wired properly (it's worked before)
5. Using fresh batteries
6. Board has powered the LED before
-
1. Board still puts out sound
2. MR Luke ROTJ 2005 board
3. Connections tested and secure
4. Wired properly (it's worked before)
5. Using fresh batteries
6. Board has powered the LED before
hm... are you totally positive the LED works? I'd try another one to see if you didn't burn it out.
-
Yeah, I tested the one I had in the saber. It works.
-
I'm not too sure man.. I think it's the LED, I can't think of anything else causing the problem if it's a burn out, too low a voltage some weird grounding... Whats the battery set up?
-
4 AAA's. I gotta Lux III comin in from TCSS. Think I should try that?
-
4 AAA's. I gotta Lux III comin in from TCSS. Think I should try that?
That all should work. I'd try the lux.
-
I used royal Blue led's in two sabers for Jedi Knight Logan:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FChrome%2520Saber%252013%2F100_4676.jpg&hash=68be78e47101b9b5aad9fb58a5758a40524890c7) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2013/100_4676.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FChrome%2520Saber%252016%2F100_4506.jpg&hash=85af2da1a37bc625040dcf530e3d35c75c36cd92) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2016/100_4506.jpg)
Neither of them looked very, very dim to me....they weren't as bright as a P4, but they were still pretty bright.
That top one sure doesn't LOOK dim at all. It looks super realistic and looks like exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for that example Qui Gon. Excuse me... Master Qui Gon. ;D
-
Well, it looks that cool because the camera over exposes the blade, but it was still nice and bright to my eyes.
-
Good! I would just like everyone to know that I have fixed the problem. But please don't ask. I will be sticking with the P4 Blue.
-
Hi, I've been searching the forums and hopefully I wont make a fool out of myself when I ask... How do I do the wiring from the rechargeport from my saber, to the actual charger. Then im talking about the Trustfire charger for Li-ion batteries from TCSS. I mean like, do I solder + in the charger to + in the kill port and the same with the -? or what? :)
-
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20332.0
-
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20332.0
That's helpful, Jasher, but I think more to the point, this link from that topic should be what he's looking for:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2235
-
I was kinda hoping he'd look and find it for himself. ;D
(but I had thought of directly posting the link :D :D)
-
I have reviewed those posts before, but I think I got it now. I have to solder the male plug's + and - to the charger itself? Since I'll be using 2 trustfires, is it enough to solder the + into one pol, and - into the other pol of one of the battery slots on the charger? Sorry if I'm making this hard for you, but I am really confused. I'd like to do it right, so I dont end up messing up anything.
-
I have reviewed those posts before, but I think I got it now. I have to solder the male plug's + and - to the charger itself? Since I'll be using 2 trustfires, is it enough to solder the + into one pol, and - into the other pol of one of the battery slots on the charger? Sorry if I'm making this hard for you, but I am really confused. I'd like to do it right, so I dont end up messing up anything.
I personally prefer using kill keys, so look at the second diagram (the one from Erv).
And how you wire it kinda depends on the size of the Trustfires you're using. If you're using the 14500s, you can simply put them in a 2-AA battery pack, and wire the pack's +/- leads to the recharge port along with the soundboard's +/- battery leads.
-
Im not talking about the wiring inside the saber. As I said, from the kill port to the charger itself. This has nothing to do with the wiring inside the saber, that I know how to do already. I am having trouble with figuring out how I get the power to the saber, from the charger that I'm actually supposed to insert the batteries for charging. I am using the 14500s and a 2-aa batterypack.What I mean is, the plug that connects the rechargeport and the CHARGER, I dont know how I get them connected. Its kind of hard to explain, but I need help with connecting the plug that goes into the rechargeport, to the trustfire batterycharger. :S
Is there some special cable I should have or?
-
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-All-in-One-Charger-P346.aspx
If you're referring ot that one, you can't do it. You need the Li smart charger for this type of in hilt recharging.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37V-148V-Li-Ion-Smart-charger--P129.aspx
I think that's the one you want.
-
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-All-in-One-Charger-P346.aspx
If you're referring ot that one, you can't do it. You need the Li smart charger for this type of in hilt recharging.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37V-148V-Li-Ion-Smart-charger--P129.aspx
I think that's the one you want.
Yup, that pretty much answers my question, thanks man. I guess I'll have to toss in another order then. :)
-
I bought one of the US 2.5's off ebay and was wondering if anyone else whom purchased one noticed if there was or was not a jumper wire on the back? Mine did not and I wont be attaching it for a while - so has anyone experienced this and does it matter? Maybe it could have been worked into the electronics? Thanks anyone who can help.
-
If I could find someone HERE selling a U.S. 2.0 or 2.1.... how much would they probably go for?
-
If I could find someone HERE selling a U.S. 2.0 or 2.1.... how much would they probably go for?
My guess would about $200 -$250.
Yea, sounds pretty high, but since they are made anyone, they are getting harder to find.
-
So 2.5 would be cheaper? Huh... weird. How much do you think someone on these forums would charge for a 2.5?
-
So 2.5 would be cheaper? Huh... weird. How much do you think someone on these forums would charge for a 2.5?
Not sure, ...and u may even find them cheaper, ..I'm just saying that the days of getting them under the $150.00 are most likely long gone.
I have 2 left and they are being held for special projects, and while everything has a price Im sure, it would have to be pretty hefty for me to let these go.
As far as the the US2.5, they too will be difficult to find in a decent price range, but ya never know, someone may just wanna off load theirs, .....keep checking the TF and be ready.
-
Probably just gonna stick with MR board for a while. They still sound good. I just want the lockup effect. Guess I'll wait for Tim's board.
Kinda low on the $$$ so can't see myself paying that much for a soundboard.
Guy on ebay sells MR boards for sometimes under $50. Dealt with him twice and I am very happy.
Thanks anyway Chewie
-
Where does one buy a Luxeon III these days? TCSS stopped selling them.
-
Where does one buy a Luxeon III these days? TCSS stopped selling them.
TCSS still has some, ...I just loaded 3 of each in my cart to make sure they were in stock.
-
Wow! I soooo meant a Luxeon V. Jeez.... Where the heck did III come from?
-
Wow! I soooo meant a Luxeon V. Jeez.... Where the heck did III come from?
http://www.luxeonstar.com/luxeon-vs-stars-c-34_44.php?zenid=a3ks9kgrl4hfl0k1bvks04duu6
-
Cool! Does TCSS sell the proper resistor?
If so... Which one should I use?
If not, where can I get one?
-
Cool! Does TCSS sell the proper resistor?
If so... Which one should I use?
If not, where can I get one?
for what?
What are doing?
What is power setup?
Are u using a soundboard?
What color LED?
A driver?
These are questions, that by now, u know u need to provide to get the right answer.
Help us help you.
-
Cool! Does TCSS sell the proper resistor?
If so... Which one should I use?
If not, where can I get one?
for what?
What are doing?
What is power setup?
Are u using a soundboard?
What color LED?
A driver?
These are questions, that by now, u know u need to provide to get the right answer.
Help us help you.
direct drive no soundboard... probably a blue LED.... basic resistor set up
-
I would urge the use of one of those drivers that TCSS has, or at least a buckpuck on ANY battery setup.
Without knowing what battery setup, I dont know what resistor u need.
That said, ..TCSS DOES have a resistor chart to match up LEDs and battery supply, u may wanna look into that.
-
Ok I will. FIY I'll be using a 7.2v Lithium Ion pack.
-
Ok so I've been talking to Nova and you can't use side emitting which is the only one luxeonstar has in stock.
Where can you get a lambertain to make a Lux V saber? Will luxeonstar.com restock quickly?
-
LEDsupply.com may have some left. Email if there is a specific bin you want, and they will let you know what they have in stock.
I've always had great customer service from them.
-
You guys know if you can use this LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx
With an FX board?
-
You guys know if you can use this LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx
With an FX board?
Yes.
-
As Master Jinn said, yes these will work.... The forward voltage is similar to a P4, so your all good with a mr board.... ;D
-
I will be wiring my first US 2.5 saber soon.
So I was brousing this and the custom saber shop forums to see if I could find a wiring guide and I ran across this video.....
YOu don't have to watch it but the way he wires it up is kind of odd.
He has the battery plus go to the recharge port and then back to the US. Then he cut off the third solder pin?????
My question is.... Would the saber recharge with that wiring scheme?
-
Bump for an answer! ;D
-
Does anyone know of a video that shows off the "shimmer" effect? (specifically of the tcss add on board, but i think the other driver/sound stuff does it too), i like the idea of it, but realized i have no idea what is actually means.... Thanks in advance.. i tried to search but lots and lots of posts have shimmer but i can't find one that has an example of what it looks like.
-
From what I know, the shimmer is hard ot catch on camera, because it's so subtle. I know parks Phase blades have it now, so that may be another way to see the eefect.
-
I'm trying to get rid of some of the stuff lying around here.
I was wondering something.....the specs say the miniumum for a buck puck is 5V. Do you guys think I can get away with 4.8V's (NimH)?
Trying to be catious as this centers around an MR board and a green Luxeon V.
-
I went to vader vault, and am trying to get a saber made in time for celbration 5. But they r backlogged to far to do it. Does anyone know who I can have make me one before that deadline? Thank you
-
I went to vader vault, and am trying to get a saber made in time for celbration 5. But they r backlogged to far to do it. Does anyone know who I can have make me one before that deadline? Thank you
Yes... look in the Trade Federation. Plenty of great sabers for sale that are ready to ship.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23619.0 Madcow's weathered saber
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23715.0 Jango Fett's Overlord
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23637.0 Qui-Gon's Nickel Saber
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20842.0 LDM's Coronus
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23711.0 Jasher's Vader with Crystal Chamber
... and a few others http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=5.0
Unless you wanting your own design made, but that's cutting it a bit close. Search a sabersmith in the Guild or the Mining Colony, PM them a render and see what you get back. ;)
Good luck.
-
Well it's been something like 9 months since I was last active on the forums (Until last week.. I think.) and I know I talked to someone about blasters last summer, but never fallowed up due to only having a part time job (And thus lacking the funds.), But now I have a full time job and my friends and I are working on a fan film. So onto the question..
Does anyone here make and sell blaster props? Preferably something with effects rather then just still props.
-
Well it's been something like 9 months since I was last active on the forums (Until last week.. I think.) and I know I talked to someone about blasters last summer, but never fallowed up due to only having a part time job (And thus lacking the funds.), But now I have a full time job and my friends and I are working on a fan film. So onto the question..
Does anyone here make and sell blaster props? Preferably something with effects rather then just still props.
Do-Clo does them from time to time. I know DSC (Dark Side Customs) would do so on occasion as well, but I don't know if he's doing them anymore.
-
There are prop makers all over the place, and the best ones I know (and who are the friendliest) are at Mandalorian Mercs forum. Vosk just bought me 2 Aurra Sing resin blasters for $55 each. I cant remember the member's names...friggin headache :-s
-
Does anyone know the threading size of an MR Luke ROTJ pommel?
Thanks in advance.
-
Hey everyone! I'm gonna be working on a saber that the internals ABSOLUTLEY require a QD on the LED and I heard that there is some difficulty distinguishing from the positive and negative leads.
What is a good way to tell the difference?
-
Hey everyone! I'm gonna be working on a saber that the internals ABSOLUTLEY require a QD on the LED and I heard that there is some difficulty distinguishing from the positive and negative leads.
What is a good way to tell the difference?
If you're talking about the led star itself there is a + and -- om the solder pads. 8)
-
You could designate those yourself by putting a white strip of tape or something on the lead wire you want to be negative when you solder the quick disconnect to the led, take note of which wire is being soldered where, to differentiate which lead is which. They have stick on wire labels for that also.
-
Hey everyone! I'm gonna be working on a saber that the internals ABSOLUTLEY require a QD on the LED and I heard that there is some difficulty distinguishing from the positive and negative leads.
What is a good way to tell the difference?
If you're talking about the led star itself there is a + and -- om the solder pads. 8)
No, I'm talking about the leads on the quick disconnect
-
Depends on what type of quick disconnect you use. The black connectors usually designate the black one with white stripes as the ground, but the best way is to trace the quick disconnect leads from the led. The pads will be labeled positive and negative.
-
If u are building it yourself, then it doesn't matter what side u use.
Additionally, many QD's have the connectors on backwards, so to make the connection, the black with white stripe will connect to the black only wire.
Easiest thing to do if u are not certain, is to connect the male clip to the female, cut the wires, then designate one side of the QD wiring as + and one as -.
Adding a little colored heat shrink to one side may help, (red, blue, etc, etc).
-
Ok...one more question regarding Quick Disconnects. Tim told me that they may be out of stock for another week. Thats a problem cause I anticipate having the parts for my saber by Tuesday.
Is there another place I can get ones just like the kind that Tim sells at TCSS?
-
You might try hitting up the hobby shops in your area, they tend to carry the same kind of quick disconnects that tim sells.
-
You mean like a hardware store or a place like Hobby Lobby?
-
what is the most comfortable luke rotj? i just got an fx..and not bashing on it. i dig it. but IS fatter than i thought. is there a version that makes a narrower grooved handgrip and a little quicker to spin?
-
what is the most comfortable luke rotj? i just got an fx..and not bashing on it. i dig it. but IS fatter than i thought. is there a version that makes a narrower grooved handgrip and a little quicker to spin?
yes but they are 3/4 blade instead of 1".
here is a V2 I recently built http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=25562.0
and here is a hero I am working on http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=25576.0
both of these are based on the Korbanth LS6 (or parks arc wave).
-
see thats what im lookin for...im lookin to build my dream saber tho...and with that comes makoto's technology...could any of these two house what he puts in em? or is it strickly for star LED?
-
I LOVE my MHS Luke V2. It's not 100% accurate, but it's as accurate as an MHS hilt can be. ;D
It's comfortable, and has served me well in everything that I use it for....which are all aspects of saberplay.
And yes...the MR Luke ROTJ is a PIG....I owned one before and it eventually disgusted me to the point of no return.
-
lol yes, this one is..."ok" its got amazing balance tho i must say...something with a lil bit narrower would be great...if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for your hilt going through the MHS system?
-
If I could, I would have MH upgrade my LS6 to a version similar to the ones he posted above. However, my circumstances being what they are that wont happen. So I am trying to sell it: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=24957.0 (just in case you are interested... ::) ;D)
They really are very comfortable and alot smaller compared to the MRs.
-
If I could, I would have MH upgrade my LS6 to a version similar to the ones he posted above. However, my circumstances being what they are that wont happen. So I am trying to sell it: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=24957.0 (just in case you are interested... ::) ;D)
They really are very comfortable and alot smaller compared to the MRs.
if i didnt JUST buy this then i would possibly be able to buy it...unless maybe your willing to do a trade? i do have a few items that would meet, if not exceed your $300 mark...send me a PM if your interested and maybe we can work something out.
-
lol yes, this one is..."ok" its got amazing balance tho i must say...something with a lil bit narrower would be great...if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for your hilt going through the MHS system?
I think an MHS Luke V2 costs around $160 or so...install, etc. is all about what smith you go thru, etc.
-
And yes...the MR Luke ROTJ is a PIG....I owned one before and it eventually disgusted me to the point of no return.
Yep, same here (color edit mine). I bought a (much more accurate) Arc-Wave, and just finished an indepth review of it here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=25321
Go check it out; that's unmodified. It's an excellent saber, and only about $200.
-
And yes...the MR Luke ROTJ is a PIG....I owned one before and it eventually disgusted me to the point of no return.
Yep, same here (color edit mine). I bought a (much more accurate) Arc-Wave, and just finished an indepth review of it here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=25321
Go check it out; that's unmodified. It's an excellent saber, and only about $200.
i think you might have me hooked on this as well, that IS a beautiful saber and looks to be EXACTLY what im looking for. the Real xxx thing lol. when i get a mesage back from makoto telling me if his leds take 3/4 inch blades...i really might go through with doing this. thank you!
-
Does the Korbanth LS6 and the one from parks both have 3/4 blades? or was someone tryin to tell me that the Korbanth is 1 inch?
-
Korbanth is basically an empty parks hilt, so it does take 3/4 inch blades.
-
has anyone ever heard of makoto putting his led strip into a 3/4 inch blade? if your the owner of a makoto blade do YOU think it could?
-
Is there an activation box that actually works that will fit a fx Luke rotj? I'll deal with the bulky hilt, but it's gotta have a legit card/activation box. Or has somebody converted the existing box so it actually turns on when u push up the card? The little switch on the side isn't good enough
-
I'd just like to put in that, with the exception of the "thick" neck, I like my MR ROTJ Luke. If you have big hands, then the bulkiness to it isn't too bad - at the widest it is ~1.65".
-
I feel the JK Luke V2 is the best Luke ROTJ out there: a thin neck, near accurate dimensions, and a 1" diameter blade opening.
-
I feel the JK Luke V2 is the best Luke ROTJ out there: a thin neck, near accurate dimensions, and a 1" diameter blade opening.
Yup...JK's Luke is rad...and JQ's is pretty good as well. (I had forgotten about those, lol)
-
is it wise to sell something to someone who has NO posts?? lol my gut is tellin me no...
-
i think later on down the road im goin to go with JK's once i get the cash, thanks obi for the lead! untill then...ive been swingin around this MR rotj and ya know...you DO get a little used to it after awhile..feels like it could take a good beating once i send it off. but ya does anyone have a good idea where to get a key card that actually slides up and down?? if i can get that...and keep the original control box i can deal with it.
-
as long as all your selling requirements are met and the buyer is staying with the agreed terms of the sale, ...then I suppose so.
Some members have no posts cuz they just simply want to read, learn or buy, ...nothing wrong with that.
-
We've sold to two people on here with 5 posts or less.... nothing wrong with it.
-
Well if you get the payment, the answer will be yes.
If you don't, then it'll be no.
It's as simple as that if you're asking about a potential buyer, isn't it?
-
What they said :D.
We've sold to people with low posts several times. They were all great customers.
-
I have actually had a couple of people contact me through youtube, then sign up here to buy a saber from me....they have few if any posts on the forum, so usually it's fine.
-
Just make sure they stick to YOUR terms, then no biggie.
And use paypal!
Dont accept money orders, ...or end up being lead on by a buyer PROMISING to send payment, then Claiming to send a money order, then lying about it, then dropping off the face of the earth for nearly a year then coming back like nothing happened. ::) ::) ::) ::)
-
as long as all your selling requirements are met and the buyer is staying with the agreed terms of the sale, ...then I suppose so.
Some members have no posts cuz they just simply want to read, learn or buy, ...nothing wrong with that.
I'm one of those people ;D: I still like simply to read, learn and, especially, to buy (when I can), although I have 300+ posts.
As Obi Wan said, if that "someone" pays, nothing wrong with it.
-
Dont accept money orders, ...or end up being lead on by a buyer PROMISING to send payment, then Claiming to send a money order, then lying about it, then dropping off the face of the earth for nearly a year then coming back like nothing happened. ::) ::) ::) ::)
X 2
-
Just make sure they stick to YOUR terms, then no biggie.
And use paypal!
Dont accept money orders, ...or end up being lead on by a buyer PROMISING to send payment, then Claiming to send a money order, then lying about it, then dropping off the face of the earth for nearly a year then coming back like nothing happened. ::) ::) ::) ::)
sounds like you learned the hard way....sound like a mess man. well one final question...this guy hasnt given me a set location yet, but hes in australia...anyone ever shipped there? and roundabout how much? its the only offer ive gotten so im thinkin of takin it...
-
Are you shipping a pen or a refridgerator, or perhaps something in between? In other words, shipping varies based many different things: the weight of the item and the size of the box, any added insurance, the shipping method, etc, etc, etc. In other words, things only YOU know at this time. Either way, it ain't gonna be less than $25, if I had to guess.
-
Are you shipping a pen or a refridgerator, or perhaps something in between?
I was typing out a cost breakdown of everything between automobiles and livestock, u beat me to the punch!
-
Are you shipping a pen or a refridgerator, or perhaps something in between?
I was typing out a cost breakdown of everything between automobiles and livestock, u beat me to the punch!
If it's any consolation, I didn't even consider livestock. Man, you are ON the ball!
-
well at the most its going to be a Double maul fx STOCk, a Luke ANH fx STOCK, and a vaders vault empty hilt
-
You can estimate it using this... http://ircalc.usps.gov/
-
You can estimate it using this... http://ircalc.usps.gov/
According to this thing, my refrigerator weighs too much to be mailed to Australia.
-
Yeah I agree with what all the others have said. Long as you use paypal and get the money before sending the items out. The post count shouldn't mean anything really in the decision. Its always nice to know your selling to a long standing member and what not, but everyone starts somewhere. Shipping is never fun and almost always expensive especially when your doing anything with a blade or international. Long as you charge shipping appropriately that shouldn't be a problem though.
-
ok so i have a hit on my darth maul sabers and ive been offered 150, or a Vader FX saber converted to a removable blade, 5W red LEDEngin LED and a FX sound board.
what is the best choice? i remember hearing that the luxIII red is still brighter than the 5w....this is correct right? what to do???
-
ok so i have a hit on my darth maul sabers and ive been offered 150, or a Vader FX saber converted to a removable blade, 5W red LEDEngin LED and a FX sound board.
what is the best choice? i remember hearing that the luxIII red is still brighter than the 5w....this is correct right? what to do???
A Lux III red (a 3W LED) is not brighter than a 5W LEDengine. If the Lux was overdriven to just over an amp, it may come close, but a properly driven 5W would be a good deal brighter...not like a 10W of course, but still...
As for choosing, well...you need cashola or want a cool, very bright Vader saber?
-
Ok...one more question regarding Quick Disconnects. Tim told me that they may be out of stock for another week. Thats a problem cause I anticipate having the parts for my saber by Tuesday.
Is there another place I can get ones just like the kind that Tim sells at TCSS?
You might fight the JST type connectors, but not the quick connectors.
-
I have been looking for threads here and at tcss forum, for info and reviews of the "m4" & "m1" sound boards from Replica Props. (http://www.replicaprops.com/cart2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35&products_id=112). The boards have 10 "slots" for wav files, (or triggers, + or - volume, etc) that are loaded from the compressed file you send them. these boards seem like the perfect solution to the difficulty obtaining custom sound boards, but the project I want to do will use 2 boards, and I dont want to spend 110$ to find out they are crap, or fragile, etc. Has anyone read about these things, or heard them installed in a saber? I am really turned on by the idea of a board loaded with my own custom designed sounds, effects. etc. in this price range.
-
Any ideas why I might get this kind of behavior?
When I turn on my saber, it works perfectly for about a minute. Then while laying motionless, the swing sounds start going crazy on their own.
Here is a video of what I am talking about.
http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy251/darthsmorgis/videos/?action=view¤t=Video1.mp4
It is a CF saber and all of the soundfonts do the same thing sometimes.
I have tried reformating the sd card several times.
Here is my current settings:
//CFG - HEIRLOOM (v4)
mute=0
// =
// ======
led=60
rgb=0
switch=2
rand=3
offp=1
// ======
// =
hc=255
lc=85
hs=60
ls=12
sc=9
ss=6
i=0.72
gx=1.1
gy=2.2
frq=120
shmrd=128
shmrp=10
shmrr=3
xflashd=0
dyshft=0
shft=16
grav=128
buf=9
noise=12
sample=14
swing=160
gtsl=192
gtsh=250
lockup=88
blastp=1
qon=0
qoff=0
onp=0
reboot=1
ffx1=1
ffx2=1
beep=16
valsnd=0
lbat=470
flks=0
flkd=56
flkp=28
flkg=24
brk=0.88
slp=0.6
-
That's not a config file issue.
It sounds like a low power issue. Try a fresh/new set of trustfires.
-
Jango,
I have three different sets of trustfires. I have tried them all with a fresh charge with the same result.
I suppose I could purchase a new set if you think it would make a difference.
Any other ideas?
-
As rare as it may be, ...it could be a defective board.
When did it start?
Has it always done it?
Were changes made prior to the board acting this way?
What is your favorite color?
-
It has always done it to a cetrain degree. I have always thought I just didn't have the setting correct.
Sometimes it does it more than others. For a while I thought it was recieving some kind of interference.
The only thing I have changed on this saber was the main led. No changes to the board except tweaking the settings.
My favorite color is Green, but for this saber I like blue.
-
Is the hilt still under warranty from the maker? Maybe try seeing if it is servicable.
green is nice.
-
IS the LED isolated from the heatsink with a thermal pad?
-
Yes, it is.
-
I would seriously consider sending in back for a check up.
I've seen CF's do that when a battery pack or recharge port is going south.
-
Hey, I just bought a Standard Issue Battle Saber (UltraEdge, Consular Green) and it arrived 2 days ago. However, after 2 days of light dueling the light has begun turning on and off intermittently. It sort of depends on what angle the saber is on, so I think it is a wiring problem. I DID notice right away when I got it that the battery pack doesn't seem to be well fitted in place as it rattles around in the hilt noticeably. My theory is that because it is not snug in place the wiring is very fragile when dueling. Do the battery packs usually rattle around like that in the Standard Issue?
Anyway, that's the deal. I called customer service and he said to just send it back for repair...but I just got the thing and I think me having to pay another $20-30 to ship it back already is ridiculous. So I would be grateful for your opinion on the problem and resolution.
Thanks for your help.
-
rattling battery packs are common, wrap them in bubblewrap.
Check your batteries in the pack and make sure they are secure, u may want to wrap the battery pack up in tape to prevent the batteries from slipping out of the pack, or loosing connection.
If the LED still flickers, I wager it being a switch issue.
-
Bubble wrap worked well to stop the rattling, but the light is still going on and off. Tapping the hilt causes it to go on and off, or sort of an in between state, and adjusting the battery pack into slightly different positions has the same effect. What's next? Thanks for the speedy replies.
-
If playing with the batterypack does the same issue, ...then chances are, your pack is faulty.
To Test:
pull the pack out as far as the wires will allow, get a friend, loved one or trained wookie to hold the hilt AND excess wires from the battery pack while u hold the pack, (so movement on the batterypack is not transferred to the hilt or wires).
gently tap the batterypack, ...if the LED flicker, the pack is faulty.
If not, I still betting it's a switch issue, or wiring to switch issue. It would have to sent in for repairs, or find someone locally with a bit of soldering expeiernce.
You're overseas I assume?
-
Hey, I did the test you recommended and when i tap the battery pack nothing happens, when I tap the hilt, it flickers. I am in BC, Canada. Paid $35 for shipping to get here, but that was with two other sabers as well. So I am guessing it would be around $25...which is over a quarter of the cost of the original price, shipping included. Suggestions?
On a side note, the blades sent for the other two weren't right(one was supposed to be 36" ultraedge and was sent the initiate length ultraedge, and the other (2 because it is a staff) were supposed to be 32" ultraedges and came as 32" midgrades. I am sorting that part out with your CS guy on the phone, he said to send pics. Just thought i'd mention it incase it changes anything.
-
whoa there, ...Im not a Ultrasaber's Rep, ...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. :D :D
FX-Sabers hosts many, MANY people and sabersmiths, it is not an exclusive UltraSabers forum, ....I actually am part of Gemini Concepts, a different saber company.
Continue your dialog with the US rep for the blades, I suggest sending the hilt in for repair, ...just the hilt, ...not the blades, (unless they want them back as well).
tapping the hilt and the flickering LED is and indicator that there is a short, ...Im still thinking it's around switch, (since most stunt sabers really have very little else in them.
If u aren't wanting to spend the money to ship it back, ...then I can only suggest to open it up, (voiding the warranty) and fix whatever is shorting out.
-
Haha, thanks I didn't realise. Thought the forum was a little big for one company. I just clicked on forum on their website and assumed it was their forum that it linked to. My bad. Thanks for your help though.
-
no biggie, our website links FX-Sabers too, ....cuz FX-SABERS ROCKS!!
carry on
-
Anywhere on here I can ask a Ultrasabers rep about this stuff that you know of? I don't want to ask in the wrong place again haha.
-
I bought one of the trustfire chargers from tccs and I put my Lithium Ion CRV 123's on so they could charge... it's been 24 hrs and my parksaber still isn't lighting up... what is the likely culprit? Also does anyone know how to take apart an Arc Wave? My lightsaber is very closely modeled after the Arc Wave and I'd like to know how to disassemble/reassemble my weapon.
-
which CR123 battery did you put in? Usually, rechargeable 123 batteries are called RCR123 or 16340.
Also, parks are meant for 3.0V CR123 batteries, most of the rechargeables are 3.6 or 3.6V.
post a pic of your batteries.
here, if these are the ones you are using
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-36V-880mAh-16340-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P518.aspx
you might have killed your parks. i believe, i am not certain, but i believe parks are meant for 3.0V batteries.
you can use these rechargeables in parks. these are the 3.0V 123 type batteries I use for my work taclights because they all fry with the 3.6/3.7V batts.
http://www.all-battery.com/rechargeablecr123abatteries.aspx
they have two kinds, both are 3.0V, one is 750mah and 900mah. don't mix and match these chargers either, the 750 ones are lifepo4 or something.
obviously the 900mah ones will give you longer runtimes.
in fact, i have a few sets of these coming in because guys on the swat team want rechargeables for their stuff as well.
http://www.all-battery.com/4rcr123a30v900mahrechargeableli-ionprotectedbatterieswithasmartcharger.aspx
i just ordered them yesterday. you might still be able to use a coupon code for 12% off. it is
treat12
it expires monday or when 500 people use it.
-
which CR123 battery did you put in? Usually, rechargeable 123 batteries are called RCR123 or 16340.
Also, parks are meant for 3.0V CR123 batteries, most of the rechargeables are 3.6 or 3.6V.
post a pic of your batteries.
here, if these are the ones you are using
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-36V-880mAh-16340-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P518.aspx
you might have killed your parks. i believe, i am not certain, but i believe parks are meant for 3.0V batteries.
you can use these rechargeables in parks. these are the 3.0V 123 type batteries I use for my work taclights because they all fry with the 3.6/3.7V batts.
http://www.all-battery.com/rechargeablecr123abatteries.aspx
they have two kinds, both are 3.0V, one is 750mah and 900mah. don't mix and match these chargers either, the 750 ones are lifepo4 or something.
obviously the 900mah ones will give you longer runtimes.
in fact, i have a few sets of these coming in because guys on the swat team want rechargeables for their stuff as well.
http://www.all-battery.com/4rcr123a30v900mahrechargeableli-ionprotectedbatterieswithasmartcharger.aspx
i just ordered them yesterday. you might still be able to use a coupon code for 12% off. it is
treat12
it expires monday or when 500 people use it.
Actually, Chowser, that's quite right - at least, I doubt he killed it. In that Arc-Wave you sold me, I tried the rechargable Cr123A 3.0 V's, and it didn't light up properly - it did light up, but not quite right, I had some six LEDs light. Then, since I bought a charger that could charge at either 3.0 or 3.6, I flipped the switch, and the 3.6's lit up the blade spectacularly. The LEDs can be overdriven but not blown at 3.6 volts, at least in my experience.
-
I have 3V, but I tested them last night and I believe that they are just dead... Last time I buy discounted batteries from Radio Shack.
-
It might be overkill for you, but i buy the cr123 batteries in bulk from all-battery or battery junction when they are on sale. i usually buy 50 at once, and it comes out to $1 each.
the 3.0v rechargeables are only 750mah or 900mah so i guess they can't power the parks that well. regular 123s are usually 1300-1400mah.
-
Ok, I guess I'll have to do that... still though it just sucks because my lightsaber is out of commission and I thought I had a good plan going to save money and keep the wife happy... guess that's out the window lol :D :-\
-
What are the size differences of soundboards from MR standard boards to MR Yoda to an ultrasound 2.5 and variations of crystal focus?
I've been dreaming and planning to commission a sabersmith to convert a parks arc wave to a "dark Luke custom" with sound, I have an ultrasound card that I have from another saber and am trying to secure a CF4.0, wondering what would fit inside the arc wave hilt. I've seen some conversion videos on YouTube of korbanth ls6 with CF and some parks arc waves with US2.5 in 'em.
Also, I've broughto school some LED lightsabers I own to show some of my students I teach in middle school, and they're just in awe. I think I might have started some kids dreaming of making their own lightsabers in the future. Looks like the hobby is growing lol. I've also force choked motioned during lesson plans and having a student respond by grabbing their throats and gagging just makes my heart swell.
-
I found measurements in two threads below, thanks
-
My little Brother-in-law he's 8 wants to start in the saber craft! Such a great padawan... I caught him today trying to disassemble his Luke ANH MR saber, I told him to hold off, and we would do this as a project together... That being said... where do I find a conversion kit for said lightsaber, and if so, I want to make this lightsaber with crystal chamber and everything, I know where to get the crystal chamber, but I need to find a conversion kit.
-
My little Brother-in-law he's 8 wants to start in the saber craft! Such a great padawan... I caught him today trying to disassemble his Luke ANH MR saber, I told him to hold off, and we would do this as a project together... That being said... where do I find a conversion kit for said lightsaber, and if so, I want to make this lightsaber with crystal chamber and everything, I know where to get the crystal chamber, but I need to find a conversion kit.
The custom saber shop .com is the place to go. ;)
-
I looked there I didn't see one for Luke's... I found one for Anakin's but not for Luke's
-
;)
Sometimes they will restock all of them. 8)
-
Ah I see good sir, thank you for the kind direction... Exactly what I would expect from a Kenobi. lol
-
should i post reviews of my fx lightsabers ? I have a hasbro anakin and a hasbro vader on the way so should I ?
-
should i post reviews of my fx lightsabers ? I have a hasbro anakin and a hasbro vader on the way so should I ?
yes
-
thanks
-
How do the D-rings stay in place and not come out of their grooves on the Luke ROTJ V2 pummels? Same as the Obi Wan ANH D-rings?
-
I looked there I didn't see one for Luke's... I found one for Anakin's but not for Luke's
There is not a conversion kit for the Luke ANH FX available at TCSS....it's not out of stock, TCSS doesn't make one.
-
I looked there I didn't see one for Luke's... I found one for Anakin's but not for Luke's
There is not a conversion kit for the Luke ANH FX available at TCSS....it's not out of stock, TCSS doesn't make one.
Oh is there anywhere I can get one? Bueller?
-
A friend at work asked me if I knew how much the old AT-AT in it's box would be worth now but I have no idea, but I did say to him that someone here might know so I will ask.
It has the original box but it has been opened so anyone have any idea what it's worth?
Please and Thank you
-
pictures needed,
is sticker sheet still there? stickers applied?
all parts good?
any fading?
battery holder acid free?
stuff like that
-
pictures needed,
is sticker sheet still there? stickers applied?
all parts good?
any fading?
battery holder acid free?
stuff like that
I did ask him for some pics but he just wanted a basic price but I will ask him again and the other questions and get back to you with the info thank's for your help ;D
-
Has anyone had a good/bad expierence with the Red Rebel LED's?
-
I couldn't find anything when I searched... I found randomsaber's acrylic blades, and I just have to wonder, how do they rate in durability? I wouldn't imagine they would be able to hold up to much. I wonder because My in laws are thinking of getting the youngling of the house a durable lightsaber he can't readily destroy for Christmas, or at some point, but they don't want to shell out a lot of money on it... so just curious if anyone has info on those blades.
-
Is there anyone out there who has used an Asajj Ventress FX board in a personally made saber?
If so...PM me please. ;)
-
pictures needed,
is sticker sheet still there? stickers applied?
all parts good?
any fading?
battery holder acid free?
stuff like that
I did ask him for some pics but he just wanted a basic price but I will ask him again and the other questions and get back to you with the info thank's for your help ;D
I got the wrong info he hasn't got an AT - AT they were just talking about it and they wondered how much one would be so if I say
in perfect condition?
and
in a bad state?
any chance someone would be able to give me an Idea as they are doing a bit of a competition on it.
Please and thank you
-
I couldn't find anything when I searched... I found randomsaber's acrylic blades, and I just have to wonder, how do they rate in durability? I wouldn't imagine they would be able to hold up to much. I wonder because My in laws are thinking of getting the youngling of the house a durable lightsaber he can't readily destroy for Christmas, or at some point, but they don't want to shell out a lot of money on it... so just curious if anyone has info on those blades.
Randomsabers [or any] acrylic blades are beautiful but are for STATIC DISPLAY SABERS ONLY [I have their orange and purple and they look great in the window or lit from behind on a stand]...they are NOT suitable for dueling in any way.
Acrylic is fairly strong up to a point but then it SHATTERS just like glass will...sharp shards of shattered acrylic flying from a dueling impact is not suitable for kids or anyone; tell your in laws DO NOT get the youngling any kind of acrylic blade.
Polycarbonate is the prefrerred material for saber blades because even though it can break it doesnt shatter dangerously...much safer for kids or anyone especially since when dueling a lot of saber blade clashes are at eye level.
For 'safe' durable/duelable blades polycarbonate, nylon or carbon fiber are acceptable materials...acrylic is not.
-
I couldn't find anything when I searched... I found randomsaber's acrylic blades, and I just have to wonder, how do they rate in durability? I wouldn't imagine they would be able to hold up to much. I wonder because My in laws are thinking of getting the youngling of the house a durable lightsaber he can't readily destroy for Christmas, or at some point, but they don't want to shell out a lot of money on it... so just curious if anyone has info on those blades.
Randomsabers [or any] acrylic blades are beautiful but are for STATIC DISPLAY SABERS ONLY [I have their orange and purple and they look great in the window or lit from behind on a stand]...they are NOT suitable for dueling in any way.
Acrylic is fairly strong up to a point but then it SHATTERS just like glass will...sharp shards of shattered acrylic flying from a dueling impact is not suitable for kids or anyone; tell your in laws DO NOT get the youngling any kind of acrylic blade.
Polycarbonate is the prefrerred material for saber blades because even though it can break it doesnt shatter dangerously...much safer for kids or anyone especially since when dueling a lot of saber blade clashes are at eye level.
For 'safe' durable/duelable blades polycarbonate, nylon or carbon fiber are acceptable materials...acrylic is not.
I had thought that might be the case... but I just had to ask... That being said I do want some of their carbon fiber blades... I'm just not sure if it will work for my parksaber.
-
You can use the carbon fiber rods in a Parks hilt as long as you get the accessory kit to go with it which includes a blade tip and a machine adapter to fit the 1/2" carbon fiber rod into a 3/4" blade socket.
-
You can use the carbon fiber rods in a Parks hilt as long as you get the accessory kit to go with it which includes a blade tip and a machine adapter to fit the 1/2" carbon fiber rod into a 3/4" blade socket.
Awesome! that will be my next endeavor then... the 40" will drop it down to about 35" once it's in right?
-
Ina Parks, it likely will....I think most of them have the blade socket depth right around 5 or 6 inches.
-
That makes me really excited. lol
-
So...still haven't gotten an answer.
I'm asking anyone who may have used the Red Lux Rebel.
If you did...did you like the LED or didn't you? ;)
Thanks,
GV
-
Hi there.
I`m new here so bare with me please.
I did a quick search and didn`t really find what I was looking for so I will post here. If for some reason I missed a post of 2 with this info, please don`t rake me over the coals for it.
I am looking for a list of all fx lightsabers done by Master Replicas and Hasbro with pictures. Detailed pictures if possible, cause they are sometimes hard to tell apart. Especially when you have a Darth Vader ESB lightsaber box from Hasbro but the lightsaber inside is really an ANH model.
Also, is there any news on which models Hasbro will be coming out with next?
Thanks in advance for any help on these requests.
Trigar7
-
Haven't seen any news on new hasbro possiblities so far. There are tons of pics in the master replicas and hasbro sections off the main forum page. Don't think they are all in one place for you to reference. If you want to make sure you can always post a link to an auction or the picture via a photo sharing site (photobucket, etc). Someone here would be happy to let you know what it is. Thought telling between HFX and MR isn't always easy on the same models.
-
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=12.0
Try the link above. It's not for Hasbro but MR and should at least give you a place to start!
GV
-
Hey! Anyone tried to make/use Yoda with long blade? I never liked the overall length of Yoda, but the hilt is quite normal, because for me, 11/5 inches (approximately length of Luke ROTJ hilt or similar sabers) are to much to wield in one hand. And 8 inches of Yoda's hilt are ok. But the blade is small... so, anyone tried this or it's pointless?
-
Hey! Anyone tried to make/use Yoda with long blade? I never liked the overall length of Yoda, but the hilt is quite normal, because for me, 11/5 inches (approximately length of Luke ROTJ hilt or similar sabers) are to much to wield in one hand. And 8 inches of Yoda's hilt are ok. But the blade is small... so, anyone tried this or it's pointless?
i've seen only 30inch blades put on a yoda anything longer would most likely be too blade heavy and unwieldy .
also has anyone tried to remove powder coating from a saber before if so how did you go about doing this?
-
I would think it would be removed in a similar fashion as weathering? Last time to googles powder coating, reference said it would chip away with water, but I don't think my response is much help. Derp.
-
also has anyone tried to remove powder coating from a saber before if so how did you go about doing this?
I've removed powder coat using the wire brush attachment on my dremel- comes off pretty darn easily, although of course the wire brush part might change the finish of the metal underneath if you're not careful. I've also heard of sanding it off or sandblasting it off, which both sound a little riskier.
There's probably a better way- I read that people have had good experiences with Aircraft Paint Remover, but I've never used it myself.
-
Hey guys!
I am looking from a cool song from ROTJ to put in an upcoming video I'll be making of my newest saber.
Only problem is I can't find it. It the song that starts after Vader mocks Luke and says that if he will not turn to the dark side then perhaps she will.
That one. It always sends chills down my spine. I really want that song in this video but I don't know what it's called. Would anyone here possibly know what it's called?
If so...let me know.
GV ;)
-
The title of the track you are looking for is called "Battle of Endor II"- at the 4 minute mark (about), that's when Vader is taunting Luke about turning Leia, and then around 5 minutes in is when Luke comes out from the shadows and resumes dueling, the part you wanted :)
I agree, sends chills down my spine too. John Williams is the best!
-
Another question about a song I'd like to use. It's popular but I don't know what movie to look under.
The song when Anakin begins storming the Jedi Temple. What is the name and what movie should I look under?
GV
-
"Enter Lord Vader" if I remember correctly.
You should know the movie... ;) Revenge of The Sith.
-
lol...thanks...I thought I remember that movie being in AOTC as well...so I wasn't exactly sure
Thanks MD!
GV
-
GV send me a pm I have ALOT of actual songs from all star wars I used that song in my snuggie wars movie when I went to the snugi academy as a reborn sith to kill my master and the others
-
Sorry..nother question.
What resistor would you use with a Green Rebel LED?
-
Sorry..nother question.
What resistor would you use with a Green Rebel LED?
battery solution needed.
-
oh yeah...WOOPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4.8V NimH
-
Information on how to calculate resistance values is actually in this very topic. ;)
-
so it is...thank you.
GV
-
it took me a while to find this place and i want to know if there is any one who can buld me a ccustom lightsaber once i get it saved up i will pay 100.00
-
Hey guys.
Another wiring question from General Veers.
I'm working on a saber that needs 2 Lithium Ion cells. Recently I've seen some sabers that have the kill switch as the main power switch. I'm wondering how you wire the recharge port up to be the switch.
Is there a way it can also be used to recharge the saber?
Electronics:
As said 2 Lithium Ion 3.6V cells
Lux V LED driven by a buckpuck
GV
-
Does anyone know of any person/persons, companys etc that could make me and my Wife Quality Imperial Knights costumes?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2FCostume%2FImperialknights.jpg&hash=dfe2db2ebad860d542b380a96e3f84788d514302) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/Costume/Imperialknights.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2FCostume%2Fimperial_knight1.jpg&hash=a6c16258750b3bd90d04afd25c0324b49b291ad4) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/Costume/imperial_knight1.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2FCostume%2FImperialknightssketch.jpg&hash=1675c6838cd859e61ed288fd176910b352d9c4a8) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/Costume/Imperialknightssketch.jpg)
Any help would be very much appreciated ;D
-
it took me a while to find this place and i want to know if there is any one who can buld me a ccustom lightsaber once i get it saved up i will pay 100.00
What features are you expecting to get in a custom lightsaber for that price?
I suggest looking through the Trade Federation section to get a better idea of what lightsabers sell for.
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=5.0
Hey guys.
Another wiring question from General Veers.
I'm working on a saber that needs 2 Lithium Ion cells. Recently I've seen some sabers that have the kill switch as the main power switch. I'm wondering how you wire the recharge port up to be the switch.
Is there a way it can also be used to recharge the saber?
Electronics:
As said 2 Lithium Ion 3.6V cells
Lux V LED driven by a buckpuck
GV
There's lots of information on how to wire recharge ports on the TCSS forums. ;)
-
Two part question... can virtualdub do lightsaber effects? Also if so can anyone point me in the direction of a tutorial for that?
Edit: Nevermind I figured it out.... it's a pretty tedious project, but it's really fun.
-
Can anyone tell me how to take a picture and be able to get the fine details?
My couple 3 digi-cams in my time all seem to focus to the same level and have
tried cell phones that arn't much different. Cant ever see like fine print or clearly.
Are all the cameras Ive had just pooh or is there a secret? Do you need like at
least 10 mpx to obtain this or is there another way? I know nothing of digi-cams. :'(
Thanks.
-
Does anyone know a good place to get a cheap Sith/Jedi belt?
-
Does anyone know a good place to get a cheap Sith/Jedi belt?
http://www.jedi-robe.com/86,611,star_wars_costumes___adult.anakin_skywalker_costumes.Star_Wars_Anakin_Skywalker_Brown_Replica_Leather_Jedi_Belt.html
-
Thanks Oisse.
-
Thanks Oisse.
Yeah, I can't vouch for their work, But their work looks pretty good, I plan on buying parts for a Jedi suit there
-
i recently acquired a Force FX Mace Windu saber that has been modded with a red luxeon led. I would like to make it purple again ;D. i was thinking that a Endor Star 3-up RBG would be my best bet. i am unsure what led is in it now as it is coated with a ton of hot glue. as well as every nook and cranny of the hilt. it took me 6 hours >:( to take it apart and clean up most of the glue mess. everything in this saber is still stock. except the 6 pin wire connection to the led or leds all the wires except 2 have been pulled out (not by me) ::) still uses the stock battery pack to power the luxeon that is now in it.
not sure what i need to do to fix it.
not sure which optic to use.
or if i need those wires that were pulled out.
-
Use one of these:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4530
with a 5 degree lens:
http://ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php
And one of these:
http://ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
I use the clear or white version.
You probably will want to add the extra wires to the blade outputs if those are what are missing...otherwise, the led isn't going to get the full current available to the led.
I used this same set up on this Mace Windu FX:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2Fconverted%2520Mace%2520Windu%2520FX%2F100_6413.jpg&hash=1913bd7a91aac37c46cd48bf6c5d38c808739b00) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/converted%20Mace%20Windu%20FX/100_6413.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2Fconverted%2520Mace%2520Windu%2520FX%2F100_6414.jpg&hash=53a8aa3d20649956c6fc0d11b38bf37e6dfa53f0) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/converted%20Mace%20Windu%20FX/100_6414.jpg)
-
Use one of these:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4530
with a 5 degree lens:
http://ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php
And one of these:
http://ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
I use the clear or white version.
You probably will want to add the extra wires to the blade outputs if those are what are missing...otherwise, the led isn't going to get the full current available to the led.
I used this same set up on this Mace Windu FX:
this is the issue i have with the wires.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi305%2FThe_Celt%2F2011-02-27133610.jpg&hash=b6a3a1336b6056a5a5e8798f0d18091318f3fc6e) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi305%2FThe_Celt%2F2011-02-27133702.jpg&hash=f4cef246ba1b8ec8b47eea52be69a4497a52121a) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi305%2FThe_Celt%2F2011-02-27133747.jpg&hash=c66e29e926a7e055bac9933e599a422db0ebdab6)
any idea on how to replace those wires?
-
Yes, remove the plastic plug from the board and solder on new wires in the holes that the plug header was attached to:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMR%2520Sound%2520Board%2520Pictures%2F104_5626.jpg&hash=bbccb227acc117f34bf924ab97d7656edda15b60) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/104_5626.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMR%2520Sound%2520Board%2520Pictures%2F104_5632.jpg&hash=810843509de3a9159640a69d4bdef5ed2f183d46) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/104_5632.jpg)
That is an MR Anakin board, but the principle is the same. Once you have the plug header removed, you can solder a single negative lead across the pads instead of adding all six wires:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMR%2520Sound%2520Board%2520Pictures%2F104_5634.jpg&hash=35d3ef8de9a09294b9d837ff1309bb582f459f79) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/104_5634.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMR%2520Sound%2520Board%2520Pictures%2F104_5633.jpg&hash=50cebd3e40f7145cca437cefc10b1b8838fead46) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/104_5633.jpg)
This will allow you to save some space, and make it easier to solder to the led.
If you're able, I'd also replace that led module with a conversion kit from TCSS:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-FX-Mace-conversion-kit-P326.aspx
-
:o you know i didn't even think of taking the plug off the board. i feel so silly now ;D it's been a long time since i modded a circuit board of any kind. (use to mod C.B. Radios) :P
thanks Qui-Gon
-
Well, then this should be easy stuff for you! ;)
-
:o i just had a scary thought, though it might not have any real practical use. what about putting a conex board with adjustable reverb as an add in for the sound... and it has an echo feature. hmmm i might just have to mess around with that.
EDIT: oh, on another topic would EL Wire in the blade work or is it too dim?
And just another idea using EL Wire in the sabers with a crystal chamber like the ones Master Yoda builds, EL Wire might add to the effect :)
-
hey guys, i only ever bought Li-Ion batteries that were already hooked on a protective PCB so I have no experience with wiring them together. I recently bought two Li-Ions and a 7.2V PCB from TCSS and have some questions.
1. The positive end of the battery has like 2 little hole looking things. Is that where I solder the wire to?
2. The negative of the battery is COMPLETELY flat, no marking whatsoever. Do I just solder the wire in the middle of that flat surface and call it a day?
3. The PCB has silver squares, is that the spot where I solder wires to?
4. Does it matter what kind of solder do I use? Because I went to radio shack and saw 3 kinds, maybe there were more, but these where what I saw:
Rosin Core Solder, Silver Core Solder, Lead-Free Solder
5. If it doesn't matter, which is the best to use?
6. Also, there were lots of different diameter solder, which diameter is most practical or again does it not matter at all?
Sorry if these questions sound like common sense, but I want to make sure. I don't want to break anything.
Going off point, I learned in Philosophy class that there is no such thing as common sense anyway. Common sense not to eat glass for some might be common sense to eat glass in another place.
-
1. yes
2. yes
3. yes
4. rosin core, at least that's my preference.
5. see above
6. your choice
my common sense tells me there is no ONE correct philosophy.
-
Thanks for the answers.
I have a follow up question that I forgot too ask. The positive side of the battery has 2 holes. All I need to do is solder 1 of them and not both?
-
If u are passing the wire through both hole, ..then solder both just for good measure. The negative side can be a lil tricky cause sometimes the solder has a hard time sticking.
Pre tin that side good, let it cool and then resolder.
-
Thanks for the answers.
I have a follow up question that I forgot too ask. The positive side of the battery has 2 holes. All I need to do is solder 1 of them and not both?
I don't mess with the holes. I just solder to the top of the "nub" that denotes + after running a file across it to rough it up to "take" the solder.
I use .032" rosin-core solder from RS and it works well. Rosin-core is what you want for electronic work. I have some .022" as well, but haven't used it yet as .032" works fine for me.
-
Howdy, just a quick question... I want to use a red rebel led, I have done the resistor calculation for it (I think) and just wanted to double check.
If I am using (4aaa) 6v and want it to operate at 700mA then i need a 5.5 ohm resistor? what wattage does it need to be?
-
Hi all I'm putting together my parts list for my saber build and have a switch querie, I want an AV style switch but not illuminated just plane I was looking on TCSS and all I could find under latching switches was illuminated but when looking in the momentary section I found this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nickel-Plated-Momentary-Switch-P471.aspx but not sure if it will work for what I want. the saber will have no sound and I want the switch to just click on and click off will this do that and if not which switch would you recomend?
Please and Thank you ;D
-
Hello I am new to the forum and i am about to attempt to build a saber from scratch. I will probably use some MHS parts for the hilt or may just buy a Ulrasaber hilt and then modify it a little but i need to know if i could put a Hyperblade for the flicker effect and a CFV5 sound board in the same saber.I think for brightness of the blade and the flicker effects Hyperblade looks the best but the crystal focus sound board sounds awesome. Any tips or advice is welcome as i am new to trying to build a saber.I own a few of the FX sabers but i want to build a great saber. also if anyone knows if this could be done how difficult it might be would be welcome information as my electronic skills are ok but not great lol.
-
Quick question...do you have a CF5? If you do not have one, you might want to consider a PC-L.
-
A hyperblade cannot be driven using a Crystal Focus of any version, as the hyperblade is an led string, and the CF is designed for a single led in the hilt.
-
i was hoping to get the scrolling effect and flicker effects but have good sound and motion sensing sound too
-
does the petit crouton from tcss come with the sensors or do i need to buy them seperate?
-
It comes with them already soldered on. ;)
-
ok thanks also anyone know if the ultraedge blades are the brightest as far as single led lighting goes?
-
ok thanks also anyone know if the ultraedge blades are the brightest as far as single led lighting goes?
Really a personal opinion. I think the ultraedge appears the brightest though personally.
-
i think im going to go with a petit crouton and ultra edge blade as for the hilt i have been messing around with the mhs at tcss any advice for a good led setup would be welcome
-
Joab Dunmer ,
You may want to check this out the new sound card called the "Igniter" , it is still in prototyping , but it maybe worth the wait ;)
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=29490.0
Also, hyperdyne labs has a sound card called sabersd that is fully compatible with the hyperblade and the saber sd is 100% programmable, so you can any sound fount you like unlike the pc-l ( petit crouton-locked )which only has 2 sound founts lightmeat and darkmeat , the sabersd also comes with a cd that has tuns of founts. I thank it comes with a sound fount maker/ mixer so you can make a custom sound fount, but I am not sure.
http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/hyperblade/purchase.php
GK
____________________________________________________
Does any one have a list of sound founts that come with the sabersd sound founts cd?
thanks,
GK
-
cool thanks i am looking into them now i think i might get the hyperdyne sound card i also am about to order most of my hilt parts from tcss i should mention i have several mr fx sabers and one very old school plasma saber with now sound and a huge hilt lol.thanks again i think i am a lifetime member of this forum i am a big star wars nerd from way back
anyone know when hyperdyne might have hyperblades in stock again?
i meant NO sound on the old plasma saber lol sorry got a little thumby.anyone have any suggestions on what type of switch to use im not sure waht the difference between a latching and momentary switch are i know its probably a stupid question but im throwing it out there anyway
if i get the petit crouton what other electronics will i need for the led?
*Combined your quadruple post into one ;).
-
A latching switch clicks and stays locked to make contact when you press it, a momentary only makes contact when you press it and hold it. When you release it breaks contact, where a latching does not.
The Petit Crouton needs no other electronics for the led. It regulates the current and the voltage for you after you select the right setting for your led in the config.txt file on the sd card.
-
All this talk about hyperdyne got me thinking and this may have been answered before or this might be a dumb question but will a hyperdyne sound module work with a single LED or do they only work with there LED string blades
And one other thing I take it that all the clash, swing ect sensors are already on their modules or do you have to buy seperate sensors? again might sound like a dumb question but just wanted to clarify
Please and thank you
-
All this talk about hyperdyne got me thinking and this may have been answered before or this might be a dumb question but will a hyperdyne sound module work with a single LED or do they only work with there LED string blades
And one other thing I take it that all the clash, swing ect sensors are already on their modules or do you have to buy seperate sensors? again might sound like a dumb question but just wanted to clarify
Please and thank you
HDyne's board has been made to work with single LEDs before, check their section. I believe their board comes with the sensors attached.
-
All this talk about hyperdyne got me thinking and this may have been answered before or this might be a dumb question but will a hyperdyne sound module work with a single LED or do they only work with there LED string blades
And one other thing I take it that all the clash, swing ect sensors are already on their modules or do you have to buy seperate sensors? again might sound like a dumb question but just wanted to clarify
Please and thank you
HDyne's board has been made to work with single LEDs before, check their section. I believe their board comes with the sensors attached.
Thanks dude I just checked out their web site and after for some reason my computer would not let me and I couldn't see any extra sensors for sale so logic would deduce that I wouldn't need to buy any thank's again :D
-
what would be the brightest led for a blue blade i am shooting for a whitish blu not a dark blue also would a ultrasabers led module work in a tcss hilt? i think i have everything i need ready to order from tcss but ultrasabers blades look very bright i thought maybe that module with the ultra edge blade had something to do with it
-
There is no way to answer the question of brightest without first addressing what you're using to DRIVE the LED as well as your power solution. Give us that and we can help further.
-
Drazhar is correct.
Power solution/driver info needed.
While the rebels are making a nice mark on the hobby, for a 6v/ buck puck/LED driver solution, I still think the blue P4s have a nice hue and are really bright.
-
can the dark meat and light meat sd cards be used in the same PC-L ? say if i just wanted to purchase both cards and swap them out
-
can the dark meat and light meat sd cards be used in the same PC-L ? say if i just wanted to purchase both cards and swap them out
Yes.
-
...would a ultrasabers led module work in a tcss hilt?
If you mean the MLS [Modular LIGHT System] reflector module it will fit in a TCSS MHS [Modular HILT System] hilt but it is not quite so simple as that; MLS is designed to be used with Ultra's style of MLS-intended emitter/bladeholder designs like the Overlord, Oppressor v1 or Bane emitters which are bored straight through so the blade end rests directly on the metal lip of the MLS...however TCSS original MHS bladeholder design [old style] have an internal blade stop to protect collimator lenses and are thus not optimal for use with MLS. There is also a newer kind of TCSS MHS bladeholder with internal redesign that is gradually replacing the old design but I havent got any of those yet so cant say if/how they'd work with an Ultrasabers MLS or not.
Imo if you have already have an MLS-intended bladeholder from Ultra then sure a MLS will work for you, if not you are better to stick to the standard collimator lens optic solution intended for use with TCSS MHS bladeholders.
-
I recently bought a CF V3.6 saber off the forum turned it on and off maybe 8 times checking out and figuring out how to use the different sound fonts then mid way through a font it shut off and is now dead.I will have a charger for it in another day or 2 but the guy I bought it from said it was charged when it was shipped.Does this sound like it fried maybe? It made a bunch of clashing sounds right before it shut off and I was just holding it not swinging it
-
I recently bought a CF V3.6 saber off the forum turned it on and off maybe 8 times checking out and figuring out how to use the different sound fonts then mid way through a font it shut off and is now dead.I will have a charger for it in another day or 2 but the guy I bought it from said it was charged when it was shipped.Does this sound like it fried maybe? It made a bunch of clashing sounds right before it shut off and I was just holding it not swinging it
That sounds like a simple case of a run down Li-Ion battery pack that tripped it's protection PCB. Recharge of when you get your charger and chances are, it'll be fine.
-
Hello everybody! I'm fairly new to this hobby and I recently acquired a converted Dooku Hfx which has a 3aaa battery pack (4,5 V).
Is it possible to power decently a 5W red led which requires 3,6~4V and the Hfx soundboard with this battery pack?
-
Looking at Getting a latching AV switch red illuminated for my saber and was looking at the resistor chart on TCSS and it said that I need a 220ohm 1/4w resistor for it but that shows without a FX board so do I still need it or does the FX board act as the resistor or would I be trying to wire it up all wrong doing it that way?
If none of this makes sence could someone give me an Idiot guide map of how to wire it up using and FX bowrd ie red wire here blue wire there etc?
Thank you ;D
-
I thought I had a diagram of that, ....but I cant find it.
Basically, make a new lead off the negative, and one off the VDD and Hit of the board.
Only use ONE leg of the neagative. If u can meter that, ...it should be pretty close to 3v, so no resistor would be needed.
You can solder a leg from the negative straight from the backside, or splice one of the wires already coming off the board.
-
;)
I just bought a new computor ;and,it has windows 7.Even reading the book that came with it does not tell how to delete cookies.I 'm wondering if someone could tell me where on my computor to go for this.I use to just go to control for this;yet,I can't seem to find it there with this new one. :P
-
Ben,
You can also remove cookies from the browser itself, usually in options
For firefox, it's options tab on the dropdown firefox tab, then option, then privacy tab.
Here is a link to describe how do it through the Internet explorer 7 and 8:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/Delete-your-Internet-cookies
-
I thought I had a diagram of that, ....but I cant find it.
Basically, make a new lead off the negative, and one off the VDD and Hit of the board.
Only use ONE leg of the neagative. If u can meter that, ...it should be pretty close to 3v, so no resistor would be needed.
You can solder a leg from the negative straight from the backside, or splice one of the wires already coming off the board.
Thank's Darth Vader I think I have an idea of what you are saying but excuse me for sounding like a spaz but what is the VDD and the Hit of the board? Sorry my knowledge on electronics is very limited and things need to be explained slowly to me lol :D
-
Rather than start another thread for a single quesiton, I'll ask it here first. What type and size of heatshrink is good for making battery packs with and where can you buy it? Radioshack stops a few sizes too small to even use for a 14500 pack.
-
Rather than start another thread for a single quesiton, I'll ask it here first. What type and size of heatshrink is good for making battery packs with and where can you buy it? Radioshack stops a few sizes too small to even use for a 14500 pack.
I use 38mm heat shrink. You can find it on various online battery websites.
-
just got myself a jq sabers luke hero with recharge port.
I need to buy a charger.
When i went to the electronics store the guy said there was too kinds of chargers.
My interpretation was that the first type just pumps power into the batteries forever (overcharging them i guess) and the second type recognises when the batteries are full and stops charging them.
If my batteries are protected, does it matter which one i choose?
Should i just get the second type as it will work regardless?
-
If your saber uses Li-ion batteries, you should still use a smart charger, even if they are already protected by a PCB. You can never be too safe when dealing with charging Li-Ion batteries. ;)
The guy at the electronics store may also have been referring to the fact that there are also rechargeable NiMH battery chargers out there, as well as Li-Ion.
-
:-\
Anyone here knows if someone still sells led reflectors like the ones that unltra sabers uses or use to? :P
-
Just bought myself a 2.1mm DC Power Socket ( just like the one on TCSS ) for a Re-charge port and was looking at how to wire it up and wondered if I have my wireing up map right:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2F1%2520Half%2520of%2520the%2520Twin%2520Dragon%2FRe-chargeportmap.jpg&hash=e31e90c88c1bc5d8f23248a6eb759e50b6e8cc1c) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/1%20Half%20of%20the%20Twin%20Dragon/Re-chargeportmap.jpg)
tried looking at my JQSabers Saber but all I can get into to see is the end nearest the recharge port so after that I'm just guessing ???
Also I bought some Rechargeable batteries to use they are Energizer NiMH 2650mAh are these good to use as I hear peeps talking about using Lithium Batteries ( but I could not find any ) wasn't sure if they made a difference or not ???
-
pretty much, yup.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi673.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv94%2Fchewy_call%2Fth_RechargePort-1.jpg&hash=645a0bdde0a4e30186d6d9e698a4510db1da7131) (http://s673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/chewy_call/?action=view¤t=RechargePort-1.jpg)
-
Thanks Darth Vader now I'm trying to work out where I'm going to but this little sucker and once that's installed I'm going to work on a shroud he he
-
It comes with them already soldered on. ;)
Does the Crystal Focus and Petit Crouton have the same sensor? From the youtube videos, it seems the Petit Croutons are erratic and can play
the blade swing sounds randomly even when lying still. I haven't checked up on Crystal Focus' though. I know there's no accelerometer in the Petit Crouton. Is there one in a Crystal Focus? :-\
-
The CF uses an accelerometer while the PC uses ball bearings. The recent batches of PC should not have this problem of erratic swing anymore due to tighter tolerance on the swing sensors. I just installed mine last week and even on a high sensitivity setting, it doesn't play any errant swing sound while static.
-
A higher swing setting wouldn't matter if the ball bearings are shaking around because of the speaker. Trust me. I tried it on my older version pc.
-
MH already stated some time ago that the newer batches of PC should have no problem with errant swing sound because of the newer batches of swing sensors which are tighter. On the stock setting, you will have a very unresponsive saber. He in fact recommends that the "i" setting be raised significantly to compensate for that.
My speaker is right next to my PC in my V2. It's not producing any errant swings. On the stock setting, the swing detection is worse than an MR. Raised to MH recommended setting, it improves dramatically so I wager that the newer swing sensors in fact is playing a big role in reducing unwanted swings.
-
My point was, you should be able to turn it up witout worrying about it producing errant swings
-
I remember a Sabersmith said that Crystal Focus boards are hard to find, and that is the reason why some custom sabers are so expensive--compared to sabers using petit crouton. But I just went to the Plecter Labs website and you can readily buy Crystal Focus V5 boards there. hmm, am I missing something? ???
-
look again and you will notice that there is also a number next to it that says how many are in stock...
Zero :(
they are hard to come by unfortunately mate. No other way to put it
-
3.5 years till I got one, and a bit longer till I got one from erv (well, two actually).
-
Okay, another question: What is Lightmeat and Darkmeat, when dealing with Petit Crouton? =_=
-
As I understand it, those are two particular sound "fonts" that work with the board. Light Meat sounds like a Jedi saber from the films, while Dark Meat sounds more like a Sith saber. Back when the PCs were locked, and you could not change the font, they would typically come with either Light Meat or Dark Meat.
-
Okay, another question: What is Lightmeat and Darkmeat, when dealing with Petit Crouton? =_=
Lightmeat and Darkmeat are soundfonts that were designed when the Petit Croutons first became available to the public. When the boards first came out, you had the choice of choosing one of the fonts. Lightmeat = more of a lightside font. Darkmeat = Dark side/sithy font.
They are both great fonts and they can still be used with the Petit Crouton boards. The fonts are on the microSD card, so the font choice in TCSS doesn't really effect the board construction. It only delegates which microSD card will come with the board.
Let me know if any of this is unclear. :)
-
Thanks, guys! That was helpful.
-
Ok since TCSS is selling PC-U now does that mean i can use fonts off of the compendium cds from Novastar besides the one that comes with it?I am guessing only one font per sd card.
-
Ok since TCSS is selling PC-U now does that mean i can use fonts off of the compendium cds from Novastar besides the one that comes with it?I am guessing only one font per sd card.
yes it does JD
just make sure your files line up - meaning you have all necessary config for PC not for CF etc
-
cool thanks I was a little unsure about the whole locked unlocked thing I am currently building my first saber and will prob use a PC-U but I have a CF saber and a couple of the compendium cds
-
I bought a couple of THESE (http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LZ4-20MD10virtualkey62410000virtualkey897-LZ420MD10) ages ago and I was wondering how far you can safely overdrive them. The specs say current is 1000mA and pulsed is 1500mA but I just wanted to find out what most people overdrive theirs at before doing anything rash.
-
:-\
I was wondering ;since,lucas put a hold on the starwars tv series;does this mean maybe a new movie? :-\
-
:-\
I was wondering ;since,lucas put a hold on the starwars tv series;does this mean maybe a new movie? :-\
one can only dream ::)
-
here's a question:
WHY oh WHY do my old star wars games FAIL to run under windows? :-\ (games like Xwing and TIE95)
--> if I hit ctrl-alt-del to bring up the taskmanager.. and I KILL the process called "explorer.exe",
then my games run JUST FINE on my new PC. so, obviously, my new PC is not the problem.
the games run fine when windows explorer is disabled. but when windows is running in the background, then NOTHING WORKS!
(the "operating system" fails to operate).
I have to SHUT DOWN the operating system .. in order to "operate" my PC. :-\ (huh!? seriously!?)
-
I am a professional computer tech by trade, and trust me when I tell you that you really don't want a detailed answer to this question. Suffce it to say that the people that wrote the game didn't plan ahead for 64 bit multicore high resolution operating systems. with dedicated graphics cards running DX11. And conversly the the evil minions that wrote the latest operating system didn't care about applications written 15 years ago, regardless of how awesome they were. Reverse compatabilty is apprently to much of an investment even for a hundred billion dollar company.
I would suggest trying to run your games in compatabilty mode, it doesn't work with everything, but it might work here. Sadly, I too have many old games, and I feel your pain.
-
compatibility mode does nothing.
but seriously: CTRL-ALT-DEL to bring up the taskbar. KILL the explorer process. then click "new task" and type the path of the XWING exe file.
(try it with your old games) ;)
the game works just fine on '64 bit multicore high resolution systems with dedicated graphics cards running DX11'...
...just not while "windows explorer" is running in the background. ::) *CLANG!* (frying pan to the head) ::)
the Question was .. WHY!? for the love of Gord! WHY!? (LOL) ;)
-
To make you buy new games. :D
-
dosbox them, problem solved.
-
I've searched the forums but to no avail!
Is there a thread for those looking into learning how to powdercoat lightsaber parts? I'm looking into expanding my saber builds and would LOVE to have a tutorial thread(s) or video(s) to learn the skill.
Any help, or pointers in the right direction would be most appreciated!
Thanks, Psab Keel
-
I've searched the forums but to no avail!
Is there a thread for those looking into learning how to powdercoat lightsaber parts? I'm looking into expanding my saber builds and would LOVE to have a tutorial thread(s) or video(s) to learn the skill.
Any help, or pointers in the right direction would be most appreciated!
Thanks, Psab Keel
I'd recommend just using google and search for tutorials/information about powder-coating aluminum.
-
How do I post pictures again? I forgot. Like completely forgot. Last time I did was a month ago...
-
First you clean out your in box so that MODs can relay important information to you.
Second, you need to go to an image hosting site, such as image shack or photobucket, and do a little reading and sign up ;).
-
Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, but is there a reason that Ultrasabers is not listed in the saber parts and manufacturers section of this forum. I noticed someone had posted a review where they stated that it "was ok to review ultrasabers again" or something like that. Is there a reason not to review Ultrasabers? I'm new and maybe missing something obvious but my searches turned up nothing, and I've spent lots of time reading through this forum. Thanks
-
I'm sure someone will chime in with the other reasons, but one reason is that everything ultrasabers related is generally posted in their saberforum site.
Oh and if you go there, best of luck to you not to get banned. It's not exactly hard to.
-
For various reasons at present ultrasabers is not really supposed to be discussed right now. There are some threads about the issue floating around but it's a touchy subject
-
Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, but is there a reason that Ultrasabers is not listed in the saber parts and manufacturers section of this forum. I noticed someone had posted a review where they stated that it "was ok to review ultrasabers again" or something like that. Is there a reason not to review Ultrasabers? I'm new and maybe missing something obvious but my searches turned up nothing, and I've spent lots of time reading through this forum. Thanks
To answer your question in broad terms, almost every time the subject of Ultrasabers comes up, an argument (in some shape or form) generally ensues. Many here are very familiar with Ultrasabers already. Your searches haven't turned up the answers you seek for a couple of different reasons, mostly because they turned into the aforementioned arguments.
With that said, if you have questions relating to Ultrasabers products, I strongly recommend going to Saberforum (which is their site) and asking them there.
-
Thanks
So I take it that I shouldn't post a review of the two sabers I just received from them. I was asking also because I was trying to find an honest review of one of their sabers and I didn't find any reviews of it on their forum at all. But I guess you guys are saying that topics to avoid include politics, religion, ultrasabers and possibly the Great Pumpkin (sorry just saw that last night and I love that line).
Another question. I'm starting building my first saber and am going to target tonight. Is there a current favorite economy board for noobs. I think the options for sale at my store are the ultimate fx ones( the plastic ones with the ladder leds) and the clone wars sabers. Is one easier to wire or better for someone who has minimal soldering experience? I haven't managed to find a list of the cheapo boards currently available and their advantages/disadvantages. Thanks guys.
-
It's not for any of us to decide (or to tell you) whether you should or shouldn't post a review. As far as you not finding a review of it on their site, I'm not really surprised.
As far as which board to get, read this for starters:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33189.0
I would recommend doing a search on both boards here on FX before going out to purchase anything.
What you are looking for on the forums are a wiring schematic (and a dis assembly guide or schematic) to help you along. I believe that at The Custom Saber Shop (TCSS) forums, there are several wiring schematics and perhaps more information of what you want, if you can't find what you are looking for here.
I don't personally have any experience with economy sound boards, so hopefully someone else will come along wand give you their experiences with the boards you mentioned.
-
Another question. I'm starting building my first saber and am going to target tonight. Is there a current favorite economy board for noobs. I think the options for sale at my store are the ultimate fx ones( the plastic ones with the ladder leds) and the clone wars sabers. Is one easier to wire or better for someone who has minimal soldering experience? I haven't managed to find a list of the cheapo boards currently available and their advantages/disadvantages. Thanks guys.
This economy board is a great one to use. I am a big proponent of DIY reading... so here are some threads to get you started
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial
If you are feeling brave and need some space, I made up a rewire guide...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12804-Hasbro-Economy-Board-quot-Rewire-Tutorial-quot
this board is OK, but not great. It is pretty easy to add a color change function though...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12207-2010-General-Grievous-Hasbro-Economy-Board-Guide
-
I remember reading somewhere that the Mace Windu MR sound board has a unique combo of sith and Jedi sounds, is this true?
-
:-\
Has anyone heard any news of new sabers fx wise from hasbro next year??I was wondering.
-
Hopefully someone can shine some light on what is going on with my SD card reader on my computer.
Here is what is happening....
1. I insert my micro SD card into my SD card adapter
2. I insert the SD card adapter with the micro SD card installed into my computers reader.
3. Nothing pulls up, it used to open up a screen and ask if I wanted to open the file. ????
4. I try going to my Computer and open the F: drive up manually
5. I get a message pop up saying "Please insert a disk into xD-Picture Card (F:)"
What I dont understand....
1. Why does it register that a "xD-Picture Card" is inserted but then say that I need to insert a disk?
2. Has my SD card reader on my computer gone bad?
3. Or does the computers SD card reader need to be cleaned possibly?
I have tried clicking the "Safely Remove" button and ejecting the disk and reinserting it, but I get the same results.
I have even tried using another SD card just to make sure it wasn't my micro SD card adapter, but I get the same results.
Anyone?
-
Could be a number of things. First port of call though when any peripherals go borked is usually reinstall drivers.
-
Hmm. Drivers might be an issue. I use a SD-USB adapter similar to this:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=SD+to+USB&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=13115974768855199003&sa=X&ei=9z0gT5KmD6uBsgLgpa2eDg&ved=0CGYQ8wIwAg
They aren't expensive and you can get them locally at a number of places. I might try one of those and see what happens.
-
How would I go about reinstalling the driver?
I would like to try that first.
If that doesn't work, I will try the device Simpi-Gon reccommended.
Thanks for the help folks.
-
you need to go find control panel - system - hardware - device manager. Find you card reader. At this point you could try the troubleshoot option but i've never found it too helpful. Anyway, find the name of your card reader, google for the latest driver. Uninstall old driver, install new driver. If that doesn't work it might be a corrupted registry entry - Had that once with a dvd drive - and it took some extended googling to resolve. Or it might just be broken...
-
I'm looking to get 2 TFU2 sabers machined
I haven't come across many designers still making them
can anyone recommend someone for me? and not Savatron
nothing personal, but I've read too many negative things about the company
thank you very much in advance
-
I'm looking to get 2 TFU2 sabers machined
I haven't come across many designers still making them
can anyone recommend someone for me? and not Savatron
nothing personal, but I've read too many negative things about the company
thank you very much in advance
are you looking for the trailer version or the in-game version. I've been wanting the trailer versions for a while now, but I have my hands full with other projects. I wonder if there would be enough interest for a smith to do a run??
-
I'm looking to get 2 TFU2 sabers machined
I haven't come across many designers still making them
can anyone recommend someone for me? and not Savatron
nothing personal, but I've read too many negative things about the company
thank you very much in advance
are you looking for the trailer version or the in-game version. I've been wanting the trailer versions for a while now, but I have my hands full with other projects. I wonder if there would be enough interest for a smith to do a run??
I would say it's the in-game saber
http://images.eurogamer.net/assets/articles//a/1/2/8/2/0/2/9/sabers2_360.jpg.jpg
this one right here ^^^
-
I'm looking to get 2 TFU2 sabers machined
I haven't come across many designers still making them
can anyone recommend someone for me? and not Savatron
nothing personal, but I've read too many negative things about the company
thank you very much in advance
are you looking for the trailer version or the in-game version. I've been wanting the trailer versions for a while now, but I have my hands full with other projects. I wonder if there would be enough interest for a smith to do a run??
I would say it's the in-game saber
http://images.eurogamer.net/assets/articles//a/1/2/8/2/0/2/9/sabers2_360.jpg.jpg
this one right here ^^^
They're quite sexy looking ;) And yeah stay right away from Savatron ;)
-
They're quite sexy looking ;) And yeah stay right away from Savatron ;)
yeah they are, I want and need them. I'm having a Starkiller costume commissioned
so I DEFINITELY need these sabers lol
-
They're quite sexy looking ;) And yeah stay right away from Savatron ;)
yeah they are, I want and need them. I'm having a Starkiller costume commissioned
so I DEFINITELY need these sabers lol
If you need one quick and for the sole purpose of a costume, I might recommend trying to do something with a combination of aluminum, PVC, and paint. I'm basically just saying that it would take a long time for something like that to be accurately made by someone out of 100% aluminum. Best of luck, man!
-
If you need one quick and for the sole purpose of a costume, I might recommend trying to do something with a combination of aluminum, PVC, and paint. I'm basically just saying that it would take a long time for something like that to be accurately made by someone out of 100% aluminum. Best of luck, man!
yeah, machining just one will take some time :(
but I was thinking about using PVC
however; I've never designed one before, so I'm wary
BTW, I think this 3D render is one of the best pics of the saber on the net
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffc08.deviantart.net%2Ffs70%2Fi%2F2011%2F224%2F3%2Fb%2Ftfu_ii_starkiller_lightsaber_by_rafalema-d46b143.jpg&hash=9d9b94cd37bd7b9b1b91aafb86fed858446e9231)
full size image (http://www.deviantart.com/download/252457059/tfu_ii_starkiller_lightsaber_by_rafalema-d46b143.jpg)
I would LOVE to have these made ;D
-
heres another pic
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi559.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss35%2Fsabermaker%2FStarkillerII11.png&hash=1786482b2777e9cc0dd4a6778012e87ddbe253c2)
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/sabermaker/StarkillerII11.png
love these sabers not only would they be awesome as 2 but they would make a really awesome staff if doubled up
-
anyone know the measurements of this saber? I've done some research and guesstimated dimensions
but I would like a solid answer, if possible
-
Ok, so here is an interesting question.
I'm wiring up 3 lasers. Not LEDs, but 3 green 20mW lasers.
(3) x 3.0v at 250ma each. I want to supply the power for all three lasers from a 3.7v 1000mah rechargable lithium battery.
Can I wire this just like an LED as in using a resistor?
If so, do I add the three 250mah power drains up to 750mah draw.
Oh, these are wired so that all three positives are together, and all three negatives are together.
+ Battery -
+--------Laser (-)------Laser
L------Laser L----Laser
L------Laser L----Laser
If this doesn't make sense, PM me.
-
It looks like your wiring them in Parallel. So, each laser will be pulling 250mA from the battery source while supplying each laser with 3.7V. So yes, the setup would be pulling ~ 750mA while the it's active.
I haven't ever worked with the lasers your talking about, but maybe putting a 3.3 ohm 1/2W resistor on each of the lasers wouldn't hurt?
-
I see no reason why not. A 3.3ohm resistor on each laser will be under driving them a bit though.
-
Hi everyone.
I've recently being selling of my lightsabers as i lost my job a while back and have a family to feed and i can always buy more lightsabers.
I had all master replica and 1 hasbro signature. When taking the pictures to put on ebay i noticed my hasbro had a master replica end plate! There is no way i accidently put wrong plate/battery cover on at any point. Does anyone know how to tell if its a master replica or a hasbro?
-
Hello everyone,
I'm playing around with a few Tri-Rebel setups and I've encountered a problem.....The total height of the star and optic of the Tri-Rebel is very low and I'm wondering what you guys use to shim the base to fit the optics modules? I'm building 4 sabers, 1 with the new style MHS optic module and 3 Ace Rocket / Wat Tambor modules and none of them screw in far enough to put tension on the lens to hold it to the base. I will be using the appropriate adhesive pads in these builds, but would still prefer to have the optics secured with the tension of the module to prevent any play during swinging and clashing. I checked TCSS and can no longer find the Rebel shim, so what are you guys using?
Thanks for any help,
Josh
-
LDM is using a piece of blade stock, but all I'm doing is gluing the optics to the led itself using high-temp hot glue. It works just fine, I've done it in a few sabers of my own and have not had any issues. One other thing Jango has suggested was to use the adhesive dots that come on the new thermal pads...stick them in the holes on the star then press the lens into place.
TCSS no longer carries the shims for the Rebel Stars, since the new design of the heatsinks came out, where the led and lens are hel together by pressure in the heatsink modules.
-
LDM is using a piece of blade stock, but all I'm doing is gluing the optics to the led itself using high-temp hot glue. It works just fine, I've done it in a few sabers of my own and have not had any issues. One other thing Jango has suggested was to use the adhesive dots that come on the new thermal pads...stick them in the holes on the star then press the lens into place.
TCSS no longer carries the shims for the Rebel Stars, since the new design of the heatsinks came out, where the led and lens are hel together by pressure in the heatsink modules.
Thanks Master Qui-Gon,
I use the blade stock method as well as securing the optics to the base using hot glue in my PVC saber builds. I should be fairly comfortable using that method. ;) It didn't occur to me to use it here as well, lol. I saw Jango's post about the adhesive dots and it does make sense, but I want to ensure there's no rattle after a hard hit. I'll probably use the dots, hot glue and blade stock when I make these up. Again, thank you, sir. Josh
-
You are most welcome, young one. ;)
-
Hi everyone.
I've recently being selling of my lightsabers as i lost my job a while back and have a family to feed and i can always buy more lightsabers.
I had all master replica and 1 hasbro signature. When taking the pictures to put on ebay i noticed my hasbro had a master replica end plate! There is no way i accidently put wrong plate/battery cover on at any point. Does anyone know how to tell if its a master replica or a hasbro?
which lightsaber are you talking about? I have all of them so maybe I can help.
-
This is a question for anyone who has used birchwood casey aluminum black. I weathered an upcoming saber with it (and i think it turned out great) but i can't stand the smell of it. Is there any way to get rid of the smell without removing the weathering? I did rinse it off under cold water and then scrubit with a wet rag before i started removing some of the weathering to get that perfect look, and now that i have it, i can't imagine anyone enjoying their hands smelling like this every time they touch a saber.
-
Once I get the look I want with BCAB, I seal it with a Krylon flat clear coat.
-
Photobucket or Youtube for videos?
Why you chose the one you chose
I was wondering why some people have videos on Photobucket and others on Youtube.
What are the pros or cons of either one? Why did you pick the one you did?
Just want to see if anyone has reasons behind their choice.
I use youtube, ... but don't really know why.
Why do you upload to Photobucket?
Why upload to Youtube?
I've no emotion tied to this question. I'm just curious :D
-
I mainly use youtube. I don't have any specific reason other than that's just what I started out with. Sometimes I will add videos on photobucket of a particular saber in that saber's album. However, my videos go on youtube first.
-
I used photobucket as it was easier - having my pictures and videos in the one place. However, photobucket doesn't seem to like uploading my videos and just fails every time, so I've switched to YouTube and so far so good :)
-
Hello saberland !
I have 2 questions.
1) Searching the forum for info about blades, I came to the conclusion that the strongest blade you can have, is a thick walled polycarbonate tube from TCSS. Is that correct ? Is there anything stronger out there ?
2)Most of the sabersmiths on the forum, accept order payments by paypal. Is there an alternative way of payment available ? (like direct wire-transfer). If not, what do I do to open a a paypal account ?
Thanks in advance.
-
Hello saberland !
I have 2 questions.
1) Searching the forum for info about blades, I came to the conclusion that the strongest blade you can have, is a thick walled polycarbonate tube from TCSS. Is that correct ? Is there anything stronger out there ?
2)Most of the sabersmiths on the forum, accept order payments by paypal. Is there an alternative way of payment available ? (like direct wire-transfer). If not, what do I do to open a a paypal account ?
Thanks in advance.
Hey there!
1) The thick-walled polycarbonate blades are extremely strong. I have never heard of one completely breaking. I've had one crack on me, but it didn't loose it's shape/integrity.
2) Paypal is the preferred payment method for online transactions. It protects both the buyer AND the seller. It's also extremely safe and reliable. Opening an account is easy to do. Just go to paypal.com and follow the instructions. You will most likely need to link your bank account to it, but it's not very difficult. ;)
-
What is a top half of a Graflex with out the Red button and an incomplete clamp (missing the back of the clamp) worth ???
Just want to know whats a fair price
-
What is a top half of a Graflex with out the Red button and an incomplete clamp (missing the back of the clamp) worth ???
Just want to know whats a fair price
Honestly, I'm not too sure. Look around on ebay for some similar Graflex products and deduct what you think is fair compared to those prices. Perhaps someone else will chime in with some better info, but that's my opinion for now. ;)
-
I'm planning a conversion for an MR Vader saber. (Parts are on the way.) I've read several posts about using a resistor to prevent the rebel red from frying. I also read that someone had capped two of the leads to cut down the power (amperage) and it seemed to work well. If amperage is the problem, why not just use a tri-rebel and split it between two red dies in parallel? Is there any reason this wouldn't work?
-
I'm planning a conversion for an MR Vader saber. (Parts are on the way.) I've read several posts about using a resistor to prevent the rebel red from frying. I also read that someone had capped two of the leads to cut down the power (amperage) and it seemed to work well. If amperage is the problem, why not just use a tri-rebel and split it between two red dies in parallel? Is there any reason this wouldn't work?
If your planning on using the stock battery pack with a red rebel, just use a 3 ohm; 1W resistor and you should be fine. Since the MR boards don't really regulate current, I don't think the tri-rebel would be worth it at all.
I'll even link ya: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/294-30-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsPqMdJzcrNwjwv8fp0ipdN17dNhHyLJtc%3d
-
Got my first pc2.0 installed, and just messing with the config and have a question regarding FoC settings. It seems that the focs setting is no longer capped at 511 as this one came out of the box with a value of 964, however the manual states 511. What's is te max value for this setting? Anyone care to post up a config.txt file setting they use?
Cheers,
Baz.
-
Got my first pc2.0 installed, and just messing with the config and have a question regarding FoC settings. It seems that the focs setting is no longer capped at 511 as this one came out of the box with a value of 964, however the manual states 511. What's is te max value for this setting? Anyone care to post up a config.txt file setting they use?
Cheers,
Baz.
Here's the one I use:
//Sound Font Comment
vol=4
led=1000
switch=0
offp=0
offd=0
resume=0
lc=400
hs=220
ls=50
i=55
shmrd=210
shmrp=6
shmrr=13
focd=200
focp=6
focr=13
focs=961
swing=200
clash=150
lockup=150
qon=0
qoff=0
flks=3
flkd=20
idlepulsing=1
idleled=0
Works just fine.
-
Thanks mate thats very helpful, I'll adjust it right away! Is that the max setting? I think the manual still needs a little tweaking.
-
http://www.elvistrooper.com/dvpartsebay.htm anybody know this website? is it legit? are the prices reasonable?
-
I know he used to make the circuits at comic cons... idk if he still does, but he was something of a legend for a while. As for prices... i didn't know he sold stuff.
edit: I assume this is THE Elvistrooper.
-
Ken is definitely legit.
-
any idea how to contact him? I could not find it on his website
-
NM got it
-
Is anyone having trouble using Photobucket today?
I was going to upload some pics but it seems they might be udgrading their site. It looks different than normal and I can't see any of my pics or videos. It is acting like I don't have any pics.
Anyone?
-
Hmm, I just logged on and went to my profile, no prob.
But the URL does say beta and the site is very different so they're probably working out the kinks.
-
There's an option to switch back to the old format. I think it's a small link in the top right-hand corner of the page.
-
There's an option to switch back to the old format. I think it's a small link in the top right-hand corner of the page.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
@ Simpi - I saw that and have tried clicking that button and nothing happens. The new format gives me nothing and I can't go back to the old format either ??? I guess it is just going to take some time for them to get everything worked out. But until then, I cant upload and share any new pics :'(
-
I'm thinking of buying a Hasbro removable blade Luke ANH saber. I also already have a custom empty Luke ROTJ saber that I want to display with it. I am wondering if the stand that comes with the removable blade Hasbro saber will be able to hold the ANH saber, as well as the ROTJ saber, instead of the blade that comes with it. Does anyone know if this will work?
-
I wouldn't think so . the 'cradle' which holds the blade would be too small -- the ROTj saber would have twice the diameter, compared to the cradle you want to rest it on.
(https://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4640459680120878&pid=1.7)
also the blade sits very close to the hilt when both are on the stand. if you replaced the blade with another hilt on the same stand, then the two hilts would be on top of each other.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fa.tgcdn.net%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2Fadditional%2Flarge%2Fe26d_force_fx_removable_blade_lightsaber_onstand.jpg&hash=f89e18f0c7adaa09faf83b47dbf68172aff384cb)
there's not enough room there for a second hilt.
-
My Darth Maul 2010 Hasbro lightsaber has a problem with blade lighting up. Five inches down from the top a six-inch section is lit up even when the switch is in the off position and when I turn it on only the section below the anomaly lights up. I have put Mauls blade in another lightsaber and it lit up just fine, and the other blade I put in mauls was unlit in the same way so i guess that means the problem is in the hilt somewhere. Any ideas on how to fix it? Aside from percussive maintenance. My thanks in advance!
-
I just got a used Darth Vader ANW(I think) lightsaber off eBay it works which is great but the hilt is pretty scuffed up and the rubber grip-strips are sticky :o. Is there any way to polish it up a little or at least make it not sticky?
Thanks! :D
-
I just got a used Darth Vader ANW(I think) lightsaber off eBay it works which is great but the hilt is pretty scuffed up and the rubber grip-strips are sticky :o. Is there any way to polish it up a little or at least make it not sticky?
Thanks! :D
Are they scratches (grooves INTO the metal) or just scuffs? A lot of times, minor scuffs can be taken out by using a dry, CLEAN microfiber cloth.
As for the grips: I've seen that happen before but not on any of mine. I'm not sure if its actually a build-up of something or whether the rubber was damaged due to heat. Try a tiny bit of goo-gone/goof-off on a small area and see if that does anything.
-
I just got a used Darth Vader ANW(I think) lightsaber off eBay it works which is great but the hilt is pretty scuffed up and the rubber grip-strips are sticky :o. Is there any way to polish it up a little or at least make it not sticky?
Thanks! :D
Are they scratches (grooves INTO the metal) or just scuffs? A lot of times, minor scuffs can be taken out by using a dry, CLEAN microfiber cloth.
As for the grips: I've seen that happen before but not on any of mine. I'm not sure if its actually a build-up of something or whether the rubber was damaged due to heat. Try a tiny bit of goo-gone/goof-off on a small area and see if that does anything.
Just some scuffs as far as I can tell. Thank you very much sir :D
-
I just got a used Darth Vader ANW(I think) lightsaber off eBay it works which is great but the hilt is pretty scuffed up and the rubber grip-strips are sticky :o. Is there any way to polish it up a little or at least make it not sticky?
Thanks! :D
Are they scratches (grooves INTO the metal) or just scuffs? A lot of times, minor scuffs can be taken out by using a dry, CLEAN microfiber cloth.
As for the grips: I've seen that happen before but not on any of mine. I'm not sure if its actually a build-up of something or whether the rubber was damaged due to heat. Try a tiny bit of goo-gone/goof-off on a small area and see if that does anything.
Just some scuffs as far as I can tell. Thank you very much sir :D
Sure thing! Let us know if you're able to get them out or not. Also let us know what happens with the grips please ;D
-
Hi there everyone!
First, I am sorry if I write in the wrong topic! I am a newbie and I was looking at the sections and I figured I won't open a new thread so I'll just find one which is quite general. So none taken if my comment gets moved or deleted. I just wanted to say hi and ask some newcomer questions. Also, my english is not the best. :)
So after a long time I could finally buy myself my first FX lightsaber. Which is not that easy here where I live (in Hungary). It costs around 200 USD, but if I'd order it from ebay (like my comics and other collector's stuff), it would cost the same and there's the risk of any damage by shipping. so I waited untill there was a sales at the local collector's shop and I just bought it two days ago for 150 USD.
Since, I am in love! It is a Hasbro Darth Vader saber with fixed blade. I know that the hilt is not among the most comfortable ones in the hands, but Lord Vader is my favourite character since my childhood so that was my obvious choice for starters.
Since I'm quite a maniac when it comes to stuff I like and care about, I found this forum and started to read. I already learned a lot from you guys. I first posted a question here yesterday about a rattling sound inside the hilt what I immediately heard after taking it out from its box, but then I read the troubleshooting and realized that it's normal, so I deleted my post because I found the answer i was looking for and I'm not worried about that anymore, thanks. :)
-I've read here that these hasbro replicas are more a collector's item than a real "toy", by meaning that you can't really duel with them, is it true? How durable are these? I don't want mine to be broken or damaged, or something, it wouldn't be easy to fix them from here in eastern europe. Can I buy parts seperately if something goes down?
Currently I've put Golden Power batteries, the same brand, but not all new ones. Does this affect the brightness of the blade? I'm gonna buy new Duracell ones any time soon.
-How can I know which model of Darth Vader do I have? I only know that it's fixed blade and Hasbro.
-What do the letters in the hilt (B E S E) mean?
-I see from users' comments that this hasbro replica is just the first step and that sabers can be converted and customised. What does that mean exactly? Where can I get detailed information on these proccesses? How much time/money does this cost? Is it worth moving on into these (considering that I don't live in the States)?
Again, sorry if my questions are noddy. :)
Thanks. ::)
-
Welcome to the forum.
The Force FX saber hilts themselves are fairly durable in dueling if you don't drop them ;)...however the "component" FFX blades are thin polycarbonate which is in itself a strong material but the technology used to illuminate them is a 'string' of small LEDs inside a foam diffuser IN THE BLADE that light up sequentially to produce the 'extend' and 'retract' effect. So if you strike the blade hard against something you can damage the LEDs or more often the solder connections between them causing 'dark areas' on the blade. Which is why many people here convert our Force FX sabers to use a single high-power LED inside the hilt itself instead of the string of small ones in the blade to illuminate an 'empty' thicker-polycarbonate blade tube lined with a light-diffusing film and fitted with a reflective-disc on a shouldered blade tip. Thus modified to remove the fragile LEDs inside the blade and with a thicker blade a converted FX-Saber can withstand MUCH harder dueling impacts without damage, which is why many do it, albeit at a loss of the extend/retract illusion.
You can get FFX saber conversion kits as well as very strong blades for them at www.thecustomsabershop.com and 'how to' information on do-it-yourself conversion on TCSS forums...many members here are members there too.
I'm not familiar with Golden Power batteries but you definitely want to use NEW high quality alkaline batteries in a FFX saber to maximize brightness...I've used Duracells in mine and had good results so yes try them.
The 'alphabet' designations are ANH meaning "A New Hope" [the original 1977 "Star Wars" aka Episode IV] and ESB meaning "Empire Strikes Back" [its sequel aka Episode V].
-
I need a DARTH REVAN saber replica, preferably with the saber part, I only have around 116 dollars in all... if interested Please REPLY
-
I would really love to get hold of a Darth Sidious saber. If anyone has put one together with a decent soundboard please let me know and how much you would like for it?
-
I would really love to get hold of a Darth Sidious saber. If anyone has put one together with a decent soundboard please let me know and how much you would like for it?
They are being worked on actually:
Proposed Hollow Saber Run 3 - The Dark Ones - 2013 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=39512.0)
Dave
-
Welcome to the forum.
(...)
Hi! Thanks! And thank you for your answers, they were very useful! ;) The saber seems brighter with brand new batteries. I will look after the conversion in details. I'd like to duel with it too. Maybe I even gonna buy an other one. :)
The 'alphabet' designations are ANH meaning "A New Hope" [the original 1977 "Star Wars" aka Episode IV] and ESB meaning "Empire Strikes Back" [its sequel aka Episode V].
lol I didn't get it. :D
-
thanks for the information, they look friggin' awesome! :)
-
Hi, im guessing this is the thread to ask my question. I just got a new graflex saber chassis. Nickle plated. Very cool!! The flat LED that goes under the crystals doesnt work. How do i get a new one and who do i talk to? I tried PMing YODA but no reply. Im new to this site and not sure if the message was sent properly. I think it was but its not in my messages at all. And i dont want to bug him. Pleas if any one can give me any info i would appreciate it. Untill i get a new flat led my chassis build is on hold and that my friends sux. It is such a cool kit. Thanks
-
Hi, im guessing this is the thread to ask my question. I just got a new graflex saber chassis. Nickle plated. Very cool!! The flat LED that goes under the crystals doesnt work. How do i get a new one and who do i talk to? I tried PMing YODA but no reply. Im new to this site and not sure if the message was sent properly. I think it was but its not in my messages at all. And i dont want to bug him. Pleas if any one can give me any info i would appreciate it. Untill i get a new flat led my chassis build is on hold and that my friends sux. It is such a cool kit. Thanks
I can't remember the specific LED size that it is. Check the manual; it should be listed in the parts list in there. Once you know the size, google it and you should be able to find a replacement.
Are you sure the LED is toast? Is it possible that it's being hooked up incorrectly? Pics of wiring?
-
A quick question regarding blade brightness.
I've commissioned a Sith saber build from Wesley at Nocturne Armory. I intend to include a 10w LEDengin RGBW purple blade and I had heard that, in order to produce the purple blade color, the overall brightness of the blade is highly compromised.
I'd love to know the actual validity of that claim. If it is dramatic, I may have to rethink a few things...
Thanks.
-
Hi, im guessing this is the thread to ask my question. I just got a new graflex saber chassis. Nickle plated. Very cool!! The flat LED that goes under the crystals doesnt work. How do i get a new one and who do i talk to? I tried PMing YODA but no reply. Im new to this site and not sure if the message was sent properly. I think it was but its not in my messages at all. And i dont want to bug him. Pleas if any one can give me any info i would appreciate it. Untill i get a new flat led my chassis build is on hold and that my friends sux. It is such a cool kit. Thanks
I can't remember the specific LED size that it is. Check the manual; it should be listed in the parts list in there. Once you know the size, google it and you should be able to find a replacement.
Are you sure the LED is toast? Is it possible that it's being hooked up incorrectly? Pics of wiring?
it just says flat led with leads in the manual. and yes im positive its toast. even when i directly put power to it no light.
-
Howdy, im trying to figure out how to save threads that i have read and want to look at later. so far i read a thread and if i want to read it again i have to go searching for it. some threads i cant even find again. is there a way to do that? im new obviously and new to the whole forum thing too. i would think that i could go to my profile and all my actions on this site are listed but no. I found where all my posts are listed but still cant find threads that ive read. what am i doing wrong? also i use safari. is that maybe a problem?
-
Howdy, im trying to figure out how to save threads that i have read and want to look at later. so far i read a thread and if i want to read it again i have to go searching for it. some threads i cant even find again. is there a way to do that? im new obviously and new to the whole forum thing too. i would think that i could go to my profile and all my actions on this site are listed but no. I found where all my posts are listed but still cant find threads that ive read. what am i doing wrong? also i use safari. is that maybe a problem?
Why don't you just bookmark them at the time?
-
thats what im talkin about. how do i do that. im looking all over every page im on for some kind of box to check or link to click. i dont see anything that says bookmark or anything close.
-
thats what im talkin about. how do i do that. im looking all over every page im on for some kind of box to check or link to click.
You bookmark it like you would any other website, just change the description in Safari.
-
copy that. ok so there is no way of doing that within the site?
-
Not that I know of, exactly :'(. You can sign up for notifications (subscribe to a thread) which will alert you when something new is posted in the thread. You can also look up new replies to a thread you have posted in. So, none of those are exactly what you are looking for but do help you keep track of certain threads.
-
Thank you. i appreciate the info. and im working on pics of my sabers. where would be the best spot to post them? or should i start my own thread. I want to share my 20 plus years of saber building with you all. Altho i think at this point ill learn more from all of you.
-
Thank you. i appreciate the info. and im working on pics of my sabers. where would be the best spot to post them? or should i start my own thread. I want to share my 20 plus years of saber building with you all. Altho i think at this point ill learn more from all of you.
Start a thread on the Forum gallery. ;)
-
I was also considering this. What I normally do is copy and paste important threads (ones I want to follow) on Microsoft word and keep them there for my reference. that way I have my own document with all the links in one place. hope this helps :D
-
thanks Forgetful Jedi.
-
That is brilliant Asoka! that helps alot. thank you! and i am coming up with some ideas for what we talked about.
-
no problem! maybe someday this could be a new feature on the forum.
where you can save or highlight important threads that you want to "bookmark"
-
That would be a very good addition to the forum.
-
Ok. I have another question. What is the absolute brightest led on the market right now that will work with a CF or PC? I want a blue (I dont really care what shade) with White FoC. Im going to use it with my Yoda chassis build. And this build is totally for show I will not be dueling with it. I just want it to be that super duper bright look what got saber. Im guessing that FoC is not a single die led. So am I looking at getting a tri rebel? Or is there better now?
-
Brightest is the SSR-90, but it won't do FoCâ„¢ because it's just... one uber LED as it were.
I'll defer to those who know more on the matter, but I'm thinking your best bet might be a tri cree BBW?
-
As far as I know, the tri-rebel is probably the easiest and most cost effective solution for a BBW with FoC. And bright!!
-
Does anyone know of J&E sabers? They made a ROTJ luke before master replicas and was thought to be the most screen accurate for a long time. Does anyone know if it still is? Ive been trying to research this for a while now but cant get a solid opinion. I was hoping someone here might have some input on the matter. Ive seen pics of one and it looks great but hard to tell if its any better than what i have or some of the other makes out there. I know this may be all about opinion but any input is appreciated.
-
My question is: I want to install the contant current LED driver from TcSS. (For FoC)On the diagram it shows to separate buttons Can't Ijust have it so its all in the same button. Preferably in the ignition switch? That way the saber always shimmers and flashes on clash?
-
anyone? thanks!
-
hey guys, almost done with my build. So I tested out the led and loved the brightness in my blade, put in the resistor and its a bit dimmer. Its a 3.7 volt 2600, and a 1omh resistor. is this normal?
-
Firstly, yes... unless you are using a 0 rated resistor, the light will be a bit dimmer. You bave to remember that a resistor "limits" current etc. If less power is reaching the LED, the LED cannot be as bright as it is being directly fed. Secondly, the Wattage rating also comes in to play, you can get various wattage ratings such as 1/4W, 1/2W and so on. Once again, different ratings provide different results
-
I'm new to this forum and confused about how to receive a graflex or lightsaber, shipping details, if I can get help that would be much appreciated. :) :) :)
-
What's the best source for LED Blades?
-
What's the best source for LED Blades?
If you're referring to polycarbonate blades for an "Luxeon-Style" saber using a single LED, I always get my blade supplies from TheCustomSaberShop.com. They have a section for complete blades along with a section for blade supplies to make your own.
If you are referring to an LED-string style blade (with multiple LED's in a strip within a blade), there currently isn't a "stocked" source of them. A person who goes by Makato makes them but he is sometimes a little difficult to get in contact with. Hope this helps!
-
What's the best source for LED Blades?
If you're referring to polycarbonate blades for an "Luxeon-Style" saber using a single LED, I always get my blade supplies from TheCustomSaberShop.com. They have a section for complete blades along with a section for blade supplies to make your own.
If you are referring to an LED-string style blade (with multiple LED's in a strip within a blade), there currently isn't a "stocked" source of them. A person who goes by Makato makes them but he is sometimes a little difficult to get in contact with. Hope this helps!
Agreed with the above :P. I will add one thing though, if you are US based then TCSS is one of your best bets for blades, if your based in europe, it may be worth looking at JQ. This isn't anything against TCSS, its just that postage will cost a lot more from there than it would someone like JQ :)
-
If you prefer your blades with film (TCSS doesn't use film they use diffusers), we sell blades here: Blades - Vader's Vault (http://store.vadersvault.com/blades/) :) We ship worldwide :).
-
Hi there, I am interesting in purchasing several light sabers from FX-Sabers. However, these saber hilts will sit on display and therefor will not require a blade or sound board. A crystal chamber with an LED is enough. Would FX give me this option? And if so what would be the cost. I'd hate to pay more on a blade and sound board and never use them. Thanks in advance.
-
Hi there, I am interesting in purchasing several light sabers from FX-Sabers. However, these saber hilts will sit on display and therefor will not require a blade or sound board. A crystal chamber with an LED is enough. Would FX give me this option? And if so what would be the cost. I'd hate to pay more on a blade and sound board and never use them. Thanks in advance.
Check out the Mining Colony, Guild Members, or the "Lightsabers" thread under the Sales area. What you want to look for are "Stunt" sabers. These usually come simply with an LED and power supply. I don't think I have ever seen a stunt with a crystal chamber come up on here before but I'm sure that could be arranged by one of the allowed members
-
About the leds I'm in the process to test XPE2 on quadpod with a white FoC that will be, to me, WRRR or WGGG and in the future WBBB with 3 dice working full time.
thanks to Luminara for the tip !
I have to test optics to go with. I'm mostly waiting my custom heatsinks to be lathed.
-
Definitely looking forward to seeing your results :D.
-
What's the best source for LED Blades?
If you're referring to polycarbonate blades for an "Luxeon-Style" saber using a single LED, I always get my blade supplies from TheCustomSaberShop.com. They have a section for complete blades along with a section for blade supplies to make your own.
If you are referring to an LED-string style blade (with multiple LED's in a strip within a blade), there currently isn't a "stocked" source of them. A person who goes by Makato makes them but he is sometimes a little difficult to get in contact with. Hope this helps!
Thanks!
-
If you prefer your blades with film (TCSS doesn't use film they use diffusers), we sell blades here: Blades - Vader's Vault (http://store.vadersvault.com/blades/) :) We ship worldwide :).
This is great! Thanks!
Mike
-
8)
I have a picture that the blades need to be touched up a bit briter.Is there anyone here who can do this for me?
-
8)
I have a picture that the blades need to be touched up a bit briter.Is there anyone here who can do this for me?
I can try and help you out! Put simply, adjusting the contrast usually helps, and if possible dim the brightness of everything minus the blades. Post the pic and I will give it my best shot when I get a chance :)
-
8)
Thanks my friend!!Here it is.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo41%2FDaJoQuim%2FDAVID-HP%2FPictures%2F002-54.jpg&hash=55b300d4aa608511f6ffae6ec34f9a57888369f1) (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/DaJoQuim/media/DAVID-HP/Pictures/002-54.jpg.html)
-
Yes yes ive read the rules..
No direct sales until 50 posts and 3 month probation period is up... That being said can i simply ask why i cannot post a link to ebay?
Ebay has its own selling policies and practices (much safer than anything fx sabers could develop) and have fixed embedded protection for both the seller and the buyer... So...
1) Why does one have to have posted 50 posts about other areas of saber building in order to advertise an ebay sale?
2) presumably if someone on here saw my ebay sale and mentioned the sale on here, what would be the difference?
3) Advertising the ebay sale doesn't just benefit me. It benefits all members who may be interested, so why has it been removed?
Simply put, is an ebay link a direct sale through fx sabers?
I'm not trying to change the rules, just hoping someone here will see that ebay links should be OK to post for the above reasons regardless of post count. I've been into electronics for years, in not new, I'm just new here.
-
Yes yes ive read the rules..
No direct sales until 50 posts and 3 month probation period is up... That being said can i simply ask why i cannot post a link to ebay?
Ebay has its own selling policies and practices (much safer than anything fx sabers could develop) and have fixed embedded protection for both the seller and the buyer... So...
1) Why does one have to have posted 50 posts about other areas of saber building in order to advertise an ebay sale?
2) presumably if someone on here saw my ebay sale and mentioned the sale on here, what would be the difference?
3) Advertising the ebay sale doesn't just benefit me. It benefits all members who may be interested, so why has it been removed?
think about it from this point:
a new member signs up...
and just starts, and all they post are ebay links? (kinda spammy IMHO)..
also.. FX has its own 'economy/selling community' here...
so why not promote those that hang their hat here first? and above others?
why not promote members who have known good quality products and service?
In an effort to protect the members or educate them a bit perhaps?
the NEW here part is what matters.. anybody see your work? Posted good feedback about their dealings with you?
That works for ebay as its public and a leap of faith on what you'll get and when.. they have their own protection in place due to this (as you mentioned)..
and FX has its own protection in place for 'it's' members...
hopefully you can see that :)
take care.
Simply put, is an ebay link a direct sale through fx sabers?
I'm not trying to change the rules, just hoping someone here will see that ebay links should be OK to post for the above reasons regardless of post count. I've been into electronics for years, in not new, I'm just new here.
-
If you prefer your blades with film (TCSS doesn't use film they use diffusers), we sell blades here:
Sorry if this is a noob question but what's the difference between a diffused blade or using film? I've heard multiple places say I can buy blades from VV (you guys), TCSS, or a variety of other places, but they highly recommend yours due the way you don't glue the film and why is film > diffuser?
I actually already placed an order with your blades since the prices were comparable anyway and yours came highly recommended, this is just for my general curiosity / education
-
If you prefer your blades with film (TCSS doesn't use film they use diffusers), we sell blades here:
Sorry if this is a noob question but what's the difference between a diffused blade or using film? I've heard multiple places say I can buy blades from VV (you guys), TCSS, or a variety of other places, but they highly recommend yours due the way you don't glue the film and why is film > diffuser?
I actually already placed an order with your blades since the prices were comparable anyway and yours came highly recommended, this is just for my general curiosity / education
Blade with a diffuser + hard core in the middle.
Blade with film + soft film like in the middle of blade.
-
How much should it cost to replace and install a new speaker?
-
:azn:
You can buy a new speaker for around 6.50 . If this helps you.
-
Hi I'm SUPER new to light saber collecting/ building. I want to construct one of the Yoda's DIY crystal focus chasis and add it to a Graflex hilt. Where can I find a graflex light saber that I can modify? I do not have the know how to build my own from scratch. I don't know about sound cards, LED systems or any of the technical aspects. I just know that I would like to take on the challenge of making a decent cost efficient light saber. Is the Graflex armory still selling hilts? Can I modify the hilt to hold a blade? Any helpful advice or leads would be greatly appreciated.
-
:grin:
Sometimes the custom saber shop has some or maybe Parks sabers.
-
Can I purchase an ESB Special edition graflex with crystal display? How would i order one? What is the estimate? how long until I would get one? Thank you for your response!
-
Can I purchase an ESB Special edition graflex with crystal display? How would i order one? What is the estimate? how long until I would get one? Thank you for your response!
Give JQ sabers a try. They have a replica Graflex run goin on and they might be able to help you out.
Wicked :evil:
-
Can I purchase an ESB Special edition graflex with crystal display? How would i order one? What is the estimate? how long until I would get one? Thank you for your response!
If you're interested in one of Master YODA's Graflex's this would be the topic to note your interest in here: FX-SABERS GRAFLEX Production info and ( SIGN -UP ) List 2014 - 2015 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=42259.0)
-
Hi there. I'm new to the website and I can't seem to post any pictures of my lightsaber. I was using photobucket and followed the steps I found on a different forum too with [url]'s and [img]'s.
Thanks for your advice.
-
Hey new to the saber industrie an was wondering what would be the best choice in light between a in the hilt led vs a light string blade for brightness an if I would be able to duel with a light string blade any help would be much appreciated
May the force be with you
-
Hi, I'm new to this place and I have read the pinned/main post. I've tried looking up someone/thing called Korbanth? Excuse me for my idiotic question but I got in touch with JQ Sabers with regards to places I can get replica sabers such as Sidious, Ventress, Dooku etc. and they said whilst they could upgrade the MR Sabers I currently have to duelling grade bulbs/blades, they don't build hilts and they said I should get one from Korbanth on the forums. Now, I've looked around for Korbanth and right now it looks like it's a model of hilt? Am I just being stupid or is Korbanth not actually some sort of person/organisation I can get in touch with?
-
You want Korbanth from Sith Planet in the saber guild section:
Sith Planet (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?board=84.0)
Take you to him, I will.....
-
Greetings all, a total newbie right here and with many questions.
Maybe I'n in the wrong place, in which case recommendations where to find the subjects I want are gratefully received. polite answers only please :azn:
My entire focus right now is on the blade itself. I am fascinated by the new photonic blades as I had a similar idea myself which was to use harvested triphosphor from tube-lights and incorporate it into polycarb, then use either a UV laser or UV/blue led strings to activate it.
My ultimate goal is to produce a blade where plasma-tube effects can be seen, and strobe the LEDs to allow it to be seen. Talk about an "unstable" blade!
All very ambitious, and with numerous issues to overcome.
-
Just curious, I am a 45 year old father of three who just got his first lightsaber for Christmas, a black series Yoda! I know it is small, but I LOVE IT and I am hooked. I am ready to step up to a more battle ready saber however and yet would like to stay with the led string style sabers. I know Makoto has the led string style blade but they seem like such a hassle to order, I have also fell in love with the Parks sabers, but I want sound. Is there any other led string style sabers out there? I am in big trouble, I am totally addicted to these things, this could get more expensive than my gun collection! LOL Thanks for any help you can give me.... Chief.
-
Greetings!
I'm in the market looking for a new Graflex 2.0 lightsaber kit. Everything included. Any chance of producing these sabers in the future? I just watched a video and it looks incredible!!! Any advice, help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
-Lukewarm
-
Greetings!
I'm in the market looking for a new Graflex 2.0 lightsaber kit. Everything included. Any chance of producing these sabers in the future? I just watched a video and it looks incredible!!! Any advice, help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
-Lukewarm
I believe the custom saber shop has one at their site ;which ,are out of stock ;but, I believe they will have some more coming. :cool:
-
Question about hilt maintenance.. I have the non-removable blade FX sabers and am having some trouble with cleaning the signature black rubber material used for the grip. One day a couple years back I used a damp paper towel to wipe off the grip and ever since then the rubber has been sticky. Does the rubber have a reaction to water? How can I reverse this effect? This has been an itch I haven't been able to scratch and I'm hoping this forum can help. Thanks. Contact me via my email in my bio please for timely communication.
-
_
-
Question about hilt maintenance.. I have the non-removable blade FX sabers and am having some trouble with cleaning the signature black rubber material used for the grip. One day a couple years back I used a damp paper towel to wipe off the grip and ever since then the rubber has been sticky. Does the rubber have a reaction to water? How can I reverse this effect? This has been an itch I haven't been able to scratch and I'm hoping this forum can help. Thanks. Contact me via my email in my bio please for timely communication.
-
Hello all,
I've been lurking for a while (along with other resource pages, many videos..) and I'm in the process of putting together a sinktube to get my feet wet.
I've ordered a 12W Indigo LED from SaberForge (sorry for mentioning them), I purchased it over ordering my own Luxeon Tri Rebel to save me time trying to figure out what dies I would need for a nice Indigo, getting optics and housing/heatsinking, etc.
My question is in regards to a power source. I don't want to mess up and install a battery that will blow my dies, but I also don't want to use one that will make my blade lacklustre either. What is reccomended?
The build will be just a stunt saber, so there will only be the battery -> latching switch -> 12W LED. No soundboard to power or to regulate power flow.
Sorry to ask this, but I just cannot recall any information I'd learned in school regarding circuits, amperages, wattages, and the like; all I can recall regards resistors. If anybody has a resource that would ease me back into this stuff that would be a major help, also.
TL;DR: What battery should I use for a 12W Indigo SF LED? Does anybody have a good resource for easing one back into putting circuits together?
Thank you very much for your time.
-
Anyone know (other than TCSS) where you can get resistors? looks like they don't have one of the resistors I'm looking for...
I need (2) 1.8ohms 1/2W resistors for two blue Tri-Cree XP LED's & (1) 1ohms 2W resistor for a white Tri-Cree XP LED
if it helps, I'm running a 3.7v Li battery and a NBv3 nothing else
each BLUE LED has a forward voltage of 3.1v & 350mA forward current
The WHITE LED has a forward voltage of 3.5v & a forward current of 1050mA
-
Anyone know (other than TCSS) where you can get resistors? looks like they don't have one of the resistors I'm looking for...
I need (2) 1.8ohms 1/2W resistors for two blue Tri-Cree XP LED's & (1) 1ohms 2W resistor for a white Tri-Cree XP LED
if it helps, I'm running a 3.7v Li battery and a NBv3 nothing else
each BLUE LED has a forward voltage of 3.1v & 350mA forward current
The WHITE LED has a forward voltage of 3.5v & a forward current of 1050mA
At 350mA? I thought everyone runs their LED's at 1amp O.o because with the battery you're using, you shouldn't need a resistor if you're running them at 350mah because that brings out a resistor value of 0.0017.
As for your original question, try your local electronics specialist. I don't know how it is for the USA but otherwise TCSS should normally be your best bet outside of electronic stores
-
There are several online sellers of electronic component, but the two that come to mind first are mouser.com and farnell.com...try searching the internet.
-
There are several online sellers of electronic component, but the two that come to mind first are mouser.com and farnell.com...try searching the internet.
do you recommend a certain material for the resistors? is carbon ok?
-
got it, anything but metal...
and I know everyone probably knows this already, but the Tri Cree XPe are 1000mA forward current which means a 1ohms 2w resistor for each
-
Please may I have a clarification of the rules, regarding the "Wanted section"..
I have posted a wanted item, but now realise I may have inadvertently broken regs. The Item I am asking-for is not specifically Starwars merch, but it is for a lightsaber build.
There are of course a tonne of things that could fall into that category, and I thought I would just hold-off on any further posts and check where we are with that.
Thanks in advance.
-
Got another questions for the audio guys out there...
wondering how to wire 2 speakers to the NBv3?
was thinking of using a 28mm 2w 8ohm bass speaker with a Low Freq. Response of about 270-280 and overall Freq. Response of 150-20,000 paired with a 16mm Tweeter rated at 8ohm, .5w with a Low Freq. Response of 800 and an overall frequency response of 400-20,000
That way its a total of 2.5w (which the NBv3 can take) and you get the benefit of both Bass and Treble...I mean technically it will work (I think)...the treble speaker shouldn't be a problem fitting since its only 16mm wide and 3mm thick
-
Erlmond, I have no experience with current lightsaber cards, but I do have plenty of audio experience overall, which is why I'm doing a comparatively "high performance" econo-board.
Firstly.. WHY?
Don't get hung-up on the word "bass"... if you're happy with the volume, there is absolutely no benefit to having a treble speaker unless you are after a really dirty way to EQ more mid/top-end I guess: The (superior build quality) bass speaker already has a frequency response that includes that of your tweeter, so you're not getting anything new by doing this except maybe some distortion from your struggling 0.5W speaker which can neither handle the power nor the bass freq.
Lets HOPE you don't need to build a frequency cross-over. The original hum of an idling saber recorded back in 1976ish is around 90hz with a 35hz buzz under it, and then the top-end harmonics.
If you want added volume it may come at the expense of sound quality in this case but you do also gain ability to put sound both front and back of the hilt which is nice, albeit with one of them much lower volume and bass-response than the other. Your soundfonts are of course, mono. I imagine the soundcards don't support stereo.
For the set-up you are proposing you would need firstly to ensure that the signal to your tweeter is not too much for its low rating.
Simplest way is to put a potentiometer in series (on the positive end) and slowly lower the impedance until it sounds right and your multi-meter is telling you you're near to what the speaker can take. You'd want to use the loudest volume and sound on your card for testing. Maybe load-up a square-wave over the entire spectrum as a test-tone. When you know the right impedance, replace with a resistor of that rating. Or a more elegant way would be work out resistor value from the max output current of your soundboard, the formula for which is easily googled or there are youtube tutorials.
But then, why commit some of your soundcard's output to warming-up a resistor instead of producing sound?
Personally, I'd rather just use this.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-28mm-Speaker-P77.aspx (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-28mm-Speaker-P77.aspx)
Better overall sound, less stress on the speaker, simpler, better fitting... just attach it directly same as the existing speaker (so, in parallel) making sure it's in-phase.
I would at least consider going to 1W rather than 0.5W, or even just 2 of the bass speakers if there's room!
I don't see it as worth doing otherwise. Don't forget that the wattage rating is likely peak and not RMS, so you're designing your saber internals and making space-sacrifices and a big effort for small benefit, unless you commit to something a bit beefier and really go for it, and are deeply concerned about sound over perhaps battery-life or space for something else.
-
thanks for that amazing response! I did think mono vs stereo being a problem as well as overdriving the sound card. I guess I will try just the speaker for now and see how it works for me for the time being.
Thanks again for your help!
-
where can I get my hands on one of these cards for the graflex clamp?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe347%2F7851%2FPicture103.jpg&hash=f379107a6140452b6063d02957378a01fcc22f97)
-
Right, I refuse to believe that there is no tutorial/build log/guide on how to install a Darth Ryo Padawan Chassis in a Graflex 2.0. I've searched around various Facebook groups and forums, and so far only yielded what I'm looking for using a Knight Chassis, nothing on a Padawan. Anyone got any ideas?
-
Right, I refuse to believe that there is no tutorial/build log/guide on how to install a Darth Ryo Padawan Chassis in a Graflex 2.0. I've searched around various Facebook groups and forums, and so far only yielded what I'm looking for using a Knight Chassis, nothing on a Padawan. Anyone got any ideas?
the padawan chassis is pretty easy to install...it just bolts on to the grenade section of the graflex by drilling and tapping (1) 4-40 threads on each side.
other than that, its pretty self explanatory...the sound card should press fit into place on its mount, the battery slides in its cradle and the speaker is glued into its socket.
you still have to open a window in the grenade section for the activation button (if using the red button on top) and you still need to drill a hole and thread it and place a retention screw for the heatsink.
use 28 or 30 awg gauge wire to fit and thats it....
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi358.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo21%2Fyubnub1%2FIMG_5245_zpsizlvpfkt.jpg&hash=15d93175297511054cee85d0f01ea7f057f7d698)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages1.sw-cdn.net%2Fcomment%2Fpicture%2Foriginal_12919066_119593_1454610487.jpg&hash=becd01073c979a6b595a701d88fbb271e1cc1996)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages1.sw-cdn.net%2Fcomment%2Fpicture%2Foriginal_12869096_119280_1454337691.jpg&hash=4e950f37b34c81e2620f3422e3998638b70697b3)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages1.sw-cdn.net%2Fcomment%2Fpicture%2Foriginal_12919036_119592_1454610419.jpg&hash=268465836ed0665e3cbb009086bd066ae57e4151)
check out my build thread if you like...im building a similar saber: My 1st Korbanth Graflex 2.0 Saber Build...Now in Technicolor (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=49097.msg634279#msg634279)
-
Erlomd:
I've seen most of those photos except for the battery on IRA actually. For some reason my battery doesn't fit :/ Anyway, for the build log I'm really just looking to see how everything integrates, how the wires run through/between all the parts and stuff. I'm vaguely aware of what needs to be done, I just need my drill and tap and my rods at the moment.
-
Erlomd:
I've seen most of those photos except for the battery on IRA actually. For some reason my battery doesn't fit :/ Anyway, for the build log I'm really just looking to see how everything integrates, how the wires run through/between all the parts and stuff. I'm vaguely aware of what needs to be done, I just need my drill and tap and my rods at the moment.
Ah! I see...well, all I can tell you is to be imaginative & creative on that aspect...the knight chassis has all the wires running through specifically placed tunnels in the chassis, the padawan is more like a neat putting it together using a 3D printed chassis other than discks and rods kind of a deal.
running the wires will be either a sloppy, I don't care job because I'm never going to display the internals...or a well thought out plan that may even involve modifying the chassis (like drilling holes to run wires in certain parts) in order to have a nice and neat reveal of the electronic components...I personally prefer the latter approach.
I will most likely be installing the NBv3 with the wires pointing toward the grenade section of the saber and run the wires through the holes on the sound card from the bottom up...soldering it at the top...and the speaker wires will most likely be glued underneath the sound card area...you shouldn't be able to see any wires like that.
another trick is to use black heat shrink sleeves (f your chassis is black) on any visible wires...but the majority of your wires should be in the grenade section in-between the heatsink and the chassis. and you can also shrink wrap your battery whatever color you like in order to better complement the chamber look you want going for you.
personally Im going to install an accent LED somewhere for theatrics. :)
I think these chassis are meant to fit the 18650 Li battery packs only (but I could be mistaken). ..I would ask darth_ryô about that
but if the battery is an 18650 Li battery, then maybe a little dremeling done to the walls in order to shave off excess plastic will do the trick
-
Aha well this is my first install ever so it's not going to be the neatest of installs >_>'
Actually what you're doing sounds a lot like what I was planning, maybe just run a few wires in between like, those slot hole thingies? But yeah, as you said; I'm not planning on displaying the internals or anything. Otherwise I would have got a knight chassis.
I have another issue of not actually having my hilts yet so I don't know how everything integrates together :/
-
Aha well this is my first install ever so it's not going to be the neatest of installs >_>'
Actually what you're doing sounds a lot like what I was planning, maybe just run a few wires in between like, those slot hole thingies? But yeah, as you said; I'm not planning on displaying the internals or anything. Otherwise I would have got a knight chassis.
I have another issue of not actually having my hilts yet so I don't know how everything integrates together :/
those slot holes are meant to run the thread rods that eventually bolt onto the grenade section...I believe the reason why they are long like that is so that they give added support to the chassis maybe? and also, to make it look more mechanical looking with metal rods running down the side of it...but like everything else, it all comes down to your imagination on how it will all fall into place...If your intentions are never to really reveal it, then it shouldn't be a problem and honestly it will still look great!
-
Aha well this is my first install ever so it's not going to be the neatest of installs >_>'
Actually what you're doing sounds a lot like what I was planning, maybe just run a few wires in between like, those slot hole thingies? But yeah, as you said; I'm not planning on displaying the internals or anything. Otherwise I would have got a knight chassis.
I have another issue of not actually having my hilts yet so I don't know how everything integrates together :/
those slot holes are meant to run the thread rods that eventually bolt onto the grenade section...I believe the reason why they are long like that is so that they give added support to the chassis maybe? and also, to make it look more mechanical looking with metal rods running down the side of it...but like everything else, it all comes down to your imagination on how it will all fall into place...If your intentions are never to really reveal it, then it shouldn't be a problem and honestly it will still look great!
Aha I didn't mean those ones, I know those are meant for the rods to mount the chassis onto the grenade. I meant like, all the other gaps and stuff that are just sort of "windows", if you will, into the chassis ;D
-
where can I get my hands on one of these cards for the graflex clamp?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe347%2F7851%2FPicture103.jpg&hash=f379107a6140452b6063d02957378a01fcc22f97)
anyone?
-
Best bet would be Slothfurnace.
-
I feel like all I do is ask questions...anyway...
does anyone know whats the thread size on an original graflex glass eye?
the fully functional one, NOT the replica/blade retention screw one on the 2.0
-
i found the anakin card on ebay and ordered one, should arrive here this week.
how hard is it to modify a new yoda black series lightsaber? just waiting on the conversion kit to come back in stock but also wanted to do a nbv3 install. is there enough room in this hilt? nothing fancy required and i have minimal experience doing these things but i saw a youtube video from tcss basically just step by step install of led and nano biscotte into a hilt. if i follow this video im sure i will come out good. just wondering about the space available to work with in the hilt. anything else i should be worried about?
-
If I design a saber hilt on google sketchup, is there a site that you can upload it to in order to get it machined? The best solution I can think of for making custom hilts. Thanks!
-
Hello everyone. A few quick questions I couldnt find an answer to. First, with the nano biscotte v3 do I still need an foc sensor? Or am i understanding it correctly and there is in fact one already integrated. Second does anyone have an idea when the v3 will be available again? Seems everyone is out of stock. Lastly rather than pming all the installers here, I'm gathering all the parts to build a crystal chamber using the night chassis from G.O.T.H 3design for my graflex 2.0 kit. Im going to give it a shot but my eyes arent what they used to be so I may have to commission an installer. My question is who would be the best option for this type of install? Thank you and may the force be with you all.
-
Miss-post, sorry.
-
The NB3 has the FOC sensor built in so all you need would be the NB3 for sound FOC and LED control (all in 1). As for installer I will let others speak up as I did my own.
-
Hello everyone. A few quick questions I couldnt find an answer to. First, with the nano biscotte v3 do I still need an foc sensor? Or am i understanding it correctly and there is in fact one already integrated. Second does anyone have an idea when the v3 will be available again? Seems everyone is out of stock. Lastly rather than pming all the installers here, I'm gathering all the parts to build a crystal chamber using the night chassis from G.O.T.H 3design for my graflex 2.0 kit. Im going to give it a shot but my eyes arent what they used to be so I may have to commission an installer. My question is who would be the best option for this type of install? Thank you and may the force be with you all.
The preferred way to find an installer on this forum is for you to pm the members of the Mining Colony or SABER Guild and ask them if they are available.
-
where can I get my hands on one of these cards for the graflex clamp?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe347%2F7851%2FPicture103.jpg&hash=f379107a6140452b6063d02957378a01fcc22f97)
anyone?
so, I found out where to get one and others similar...he makes them out of laser cut brass...I just ordered one...cant wait to see the results
http://pastorjedisabers.com/cards.jpg (http://pastorjedisabers.com/cards.jpg)
-
where can I get my hands on one of these cards for the graflex clamp?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe347%2F7851%2FPicture103.jpg&hash=f379107a6140452b6063d02957378a01fcc22f97)
anyone?
so, I found out where to get one and others similar...he makes them out of laser cut brass...I just ordered one...cant wait to see the results
http://pastorjedisabers.com/cards.jpg (http://pastorjedisabers.com/cards.jpg)
Did you email him or something? I'm probably being stupid but I can't find the saber parts section on his website.
-
where can I get my hands on one of these cards for the graflex clamp?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe347%2F7851%2FPicture103.jpg&hash=f379107a6140452b6063d02957378a01fcc22f97)
anyone?
so, I found out where to get one and others similar...he makes them out of laser cut brass...I just ordered one...cant wait to see the results
http://pastorjedisabers.com/cards.jpg (http://pastorjedisabers.com/cards.jpg)
Did you email him or something? I'm probably being stupid but I can't find the saber parts section on his website.
Its under "parts and lightsaberstands" here: Pastor Jedi Saber Parts (http://pastorjedisabers.com/swparts.htm)
you just have to email him and tell him what you want...theres no link to add it to a shopping cart if thats what you were looking for
-
Hi, I'm new to the forum and did my best to search for posts relating to this topic, but to no avail...
Does anyone know where i could source a suitable replacement for MHS Sleeve Material, preferably in the UK?
TCSS have it in stock, but the shipping would be absolute murder, especially as I need about 15cm (6") of the stuff at most.
I want to make a shroud for a GCS Ascend (bought on star wars day, so won't have for a while) similar to some designs I have seen on line. PVC piping is out of the question, although am flexible over what type of metal i.e. brass, SS etc.
eBay hasn't been all that helpful...
measurements from TCSS site
1.574" OD
1.458" ID
.058" wall thickness
many thanks,
Nihlisimo
-
Let me get right to it. I am installing a crystal chamber with the nb3 and useing an 18650 battery from solos hold. My issue is I've blown 2 5mm accent leds now for my chamber. The leds were wired strait to the + - on the nb3 and activated upon the kill key removal. Has anypne else had this issue??
-
If you wired those leds straight to the NB's + and - battery connections, that may be your issue...by wiring them there, you were giving those led's the full battery voltage and current. The manual shows you how to wire an accent led to board on page 12. You should also use a resistor for your accent led's to ensure you have the proper voltage and current for the led you're using.
-
^^^ ahah! Thank you sir. For some reason when I downloaded the manual I didnt get all the pages. Got it now, so simple
-
According to the resistor calculator I need a 15ohm 1/8w (or higher) resistor for my accent led. However I found some 15ohm 2w resistors laying around. Could I use those instead of ordering the 1/8w ones? Noob question but I wanted to make sure one way or the other. Thanks for the help!!!!!
-
you can go higher on the wattage if you need to, it won't hurt anything. It's just a larger resistor in most cases.
-
is there a big difference between the 10bit sound Vs. 16bit? the NBv3 is 10bit and it sounds pretty nice...wondering if the 16bit is that much of a difference :question:
-
:grin:
I believe the 16 bit sound has more sounds .
-
is there a big difference between the 10bit sound Vs. 16bit? the NBv3 is 10bit and it sounds pretty nice...wondering if the 16bit is that much of a difference :question:
There is a noticeable difference in sound quality to my ears, but not on all fonts or all sounds.
Note, the 10bit OUTPUT of a NB3 does not affect the bitrate of the font itself, you still use a 16bit font ie, any font you can find.
-
How big is the diameter of the MR and Hasbro Vader MPP hilts?
will a MPP replica clamp thats 1.5" fit?
-
I am having some difficulties navigating this forum on my phone. If anybody has a link or something. That would be helpful.
Basically I am looking to buy my first saber. I built one on a certain website but heard the company cuts corners on production and that scares me.
Does anyone have any guidance as to a reliable source to get started. Im really looking for novelty/practicality. Mainly will be displaying it but might duel a little bit when friends come over
I couldn't find a starters guide on here so anyone can help it would be much appreciated
-
I think there are other guides you need to read, and the FAQ, but I too am on phone right now, so it becomes awkward.
However the following thread will be of use to you I'm sure. Good luck (and welcome!)
A Few Things I?ve Picked Up Along The Way (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=49807.0)
-
looking for the best and brightest RED LED configuration...Im doing an MPP Vader and was thinking that the Tri-Cree XPE2 R/R/W is a new standard...anyone else know of other main LEDs that will bring about a bad to the Sith bone red?
-
whats everyones thoughts on these Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh 3.7v Protected Batteries...essentially its the same as what faders vault uses and all I would need to do is solder up the JST connectors to them?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUI47OY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1JRBD03OWXFJR (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUI47OY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1JRBD03OWXFJR)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51qzGg3PPwL.jpg)
-
Question: I own an Ultrsabers Dominix v4 saber with Hot Pink color and Obsidian Lite soundboard, silver flash on clash, and no av switch. So basically, i have the default on button with a soundboard and the thing is RIDICULOUSLY sensitive to the touch. Slight pressure will ignite the saber and its a huge hassle because id rather not waste battery and blast peoples ear drums out randomly. I upgraded my saber to sound at Comicpalooza 2016 this past weekend and was just short of the remaining funds needed to get an av switch (which is better at not turning on randomly) so my question is this; Is there any way i could make my ignition NOT sensitive as it is? thank you
-
Question: I own an Ultrsabers Dominix v4 saber with Hot Pink color and Obsidian Lite soundboard, silver flash on clash, and no av switch. So basically, i have the default on button with a soundboard and the thing is RIDICULOUSLY sensitive to the touch. Slight pressure will ignite the saber and its a huge hassle because id rather not waste battery and blast peoples ear drums out randomly. I upgraded my saber to sound at Comicpalooza 2016 this past weekend and was just short of the remaining funds needed to get an av switch (which is better at not turning on randomly) so my question is this; Is there any way i could make my ignition NOT sensitive as it is? thank you
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that company's reputation could not possibly get any lower in these parts. To keep the peace among other things, discussion of them is verboten on the forum, and you are unlikely to find much help with their stuff. However, folk are generally kind, maybe someone with a bit more experience than me will answer. Either way, stick around :)
(I suspect, though, that replacing the switch is your only option)
-
Question: I own an Ultrsabers Dominix v4 saber with Hot Pink color and Obsidian Lite soundboard, silver flash on clash, and no av switch. So basically, i have the default on button with a soundboard and the thing is RIDICULOUSLY sensitive to the touch. Slight pressure will ignite the saber and its a huge hassle because id rather not waste battery and blast peoples ear drums out randomly. I upgraded my saber to sound at Comicpalooza 2016 this past weekend and was just short of the remaining funds needed to get an av switch (which is better at not turning on randomly) so my question is this; Is there any way i could make my ignition NOT sensitive as it is? thank you
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that company's reputation could not possibly get any lower in these parts. To keep the peace among other things, discussion of them is verboten on the forum, and you are unlikely to find much help with their stuff. However, folk are generally kind, maybe someone with a bit more experience than me will answer. Either way, stick around :)
(I suspect, though, that replacing the switch is your only option)
Most likely, i thought as much. Seems to me they make it this way purposefully just to squeeze the extra $15 out of you. Shameful. For me too, because i do not have much money to be able to spend on lightsabers and they seemed to be my only option. Does Saberforge or any other company have good cheaper lightsabers with sound?
-
Discussion of saberforge products and services is also prohibited on this site.
-
whats everyones thoughts on these TCSS 18650B 3400mAh 3.7v Protected Batteries?...all I would need to do is solder up wires to them?
well, decided to check it out for myself since the price was right...these are 2400mAh so they don't last as long as the 3400mAh ones, but essentially they are the same...and its protected so why not...
your thoughts?
(https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/13522688_10210155310863989_830767335_n.jpg?oh=dbd386e244f5b7f14dff8469f94e497c&oe=57736CB7)
-
I use those kind of batteries all the time.
-
Can I get your guys opinion on a decent soldering iron? I've been getting by with a cheap radio shack one. Id like to find something with a finer tip option and avoid buying blind from the internet thanks!
-
I use this one and love it : Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) - (https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468511632&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+fx-888d)
For a budget model, people at TCSS have been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468511585&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=auyue+soldering+iron (https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468511585&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=auyue+soldering+iron)
Hope this helps.
-
Can I get your guys opinion on a decent soldering iron? I've been getting by with a cheap radio shack one. Id like to find something with a finer tip option and avoid buying blind from the internet thanks!
A quick search using the terms "soldering station" yielded a few results:
Gas or Electric for soldering irons? (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=49771.0)
Opinion on Soldering Station (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=38500.0)
ESD Safe Soldering Iron (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=44883.0)
my "before I buy" thread (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=39062.0)
Decent Soldering Station? (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=35667.0)
There's some good advice in there on what to buy.
-
Experts,
Starting to build a second Graflex, this time red-red-white Tri Cree. Looks like resistors have to be 3.3ohm
I got 2 of them but they are 5W and they are huge (white ceramic blocks), not sure they can fit into GOTH 3D chassis.
Question: can I use 3W resistors? I am assuming they will be little smaller.
Thanks.
-
Need some help here. I'm trying to customize the boot sound on and ESB font I have from saberfont.com. I've mixed and matched boot sounds before from saberfont with no problem. However I'm looking to add a luke quote I found on another site. It's in wav format and renamed the file boot.wav ect but its still giving me a single beeb. How are you guys loading custom boot sounds?? Also thanks for the soldering iron info Qui-gon!
-
It's probably not optimised for a soundboard.. could be its in stereo (needs to be mono) and it might be the wrong sample-rate and/or bit-rate, which should be 22050hz and 16bit respectively.
If you are uncertain how to check and alter these, I'm happy to look at it for you.
-
Quick question. I have a nbv3 I installed in my graflex 2.0 kit finally! Have goth3d Crystal chamber chassis. I decided to wire up the accent led to the main power pads. So turn kill key and crystal lights up. My question is how long roughly would that little blue led take to drain the battery entirely? Also is it bad if I let it do that? Ifeed not I will just keep turning the kill key lol. I love this saber!
-
Im building my first multicolor saber using a CF8 and I need help on deciding what LED to use that will give me the widest array of color spectrum with a FoC...
Ive heard the best would actually be a TriCreeXPE2 using RGrB...but there would be no FoC right? or maybe a QuadRebel with RBGW?
Ive also heard of Naigon's Z6, but not too much experience there...any help is always appreciated guys
Thanks
-
And...how do I get the crystal in the crystal chamber to also change colors along with the main LED?
-
Im building my first multicolor saber using a CF8 and I need help on deciding what LED to use that will give me the widest array of color spectrum with a FoC...
Ive heard the best would actually be a TriCreeXPE2 using RGrB...but there would be no FoC right? or maybe a QuadRebel with RBGW?
Ive also heard of Naigon's Z6, but not too much experience there...any help is always appreciated guys
Thanks
You can still do FoC with an RGrB led. You would simply choose to use whatever colors it takes to create the difference in blade color and brightness. I personally use all three and get a silver/white FoC.
And...how do I get the crystal in the crystal chamber to also change colors along with the main LED?
You would need to use a 5mm or 3mm high-brightness RGB led withe the same common positive as the main blade led.
-
Im building my first multicolor saber using a CF8 and I need help on deciding what LED to use that will give me the widest array of color spectrum with a FoC...
Ive heard the best would actually be a TriCreeXPE2 using RGrB...but there would be no FoC right? or maybe a QuadRebel with RBGW?
Ive also heard of Naigon's Z6, but not too much experience there...any help is always appreciated guys
Thanks
You can still do FoC with an RGrB led. You would simply choose to use whatever colors it takes to create the difference in blade color and brightness. I personally use all three and get a silver/white FoC.
And...how do I get the crystal in the crystal chamber to also change colors along with the main LED?
You would need to use a 5mm or 3mm high-brightness RGB led withe the same common positive as the main blade led.
Thank you QuiGon!
-
Hi....i am a new user here. As per my knowledge if you want added volume it may come at the expense of sound quality in this case but you do also gain ability to put sound both front and back of the hilt which is nice, albeit with one of them much lower volume and bass-response than the other. Your soundfonts are of course, mono. I imagine the soundcards don't support stereo.
For the set-up you are proposing you would need firstly to ensure that the signal to your tweeter is not too much for its low rating.
turnkey pcb assembly (http://www.7pcb.com/)
-
Hi.
My first post is a question about FAQ #2 from the site...
Q: What are the blades made of?
A: The blades of most of the sabers are constructed from 64 individually sequenced LED lights inside a polycarbonate tube. The early sabers (Original Luke ROTJ and Anakin AOTC) are the only ones that do not use the LED blades. These two sabers use an EL or Electro-Luminescent blade.
Is anyone making blades using electroluminescent light today? Why were these 2 blades the only ones to use EL?
-
At the time those lightsabers were produced by Master replicas, EL lighting was very popular, so that's what they used. MR later found that a string of led's were much economical and quite a bit brighter. EL blades still can't hold a candle to blades that use led strings, or single high-power in-hilt led's, so no one uses EL tech anymore, except in some cases for accent lighting. EL also requires a power inverter to invert the 9 or 18 volts of DC current over to 120v AC to power the EL sheet or wire that would be used to light the blades. Those take up a lot space inside a hilt, and space is a premium in most hilts.
-
Thanks for the reply QUI-GON JINN. Always been Star Wars nerd and have many light saber fantasies. The reason i ask is that I happen to work in marketing for a company that invented and patented a Light Emitting Coating called LumiLor that is a spay on EL device.
LumiGrren and LumiBlue are very bright, durable too. We will probably make a blade prototype just for fun here shortly and make some silly video with it.
When I started researching light sabers I had no clue there were so many custom builders. I found these forums and they have proved to be very informative.
-
stick around a little while longer kid, you may learn a thing or 2...
what would be great is a type of reflective coating on a blade that will properly defuse the light within the blade for a more evenly lit blade (kind of how cellophane wrap works now), but that is also reflective and transparent enough so that it can not only distributes the light within the blade more evenly, but will also enhance the light that is there....that way the application wouldn't only be for string blades but also for in hilt LEDs like the tri cree!
very interesting indeed
-
I am tying to find a hilt for a custom curved lightsaber that I would like to design using TCSS's MHS, SaberForge's ASP, or something else. Does anybody know of any curved hilts that are compatible with either of these or another custom hilt system?
-
I am tying to find a hilt for a custom curved lightsaber that I would like to design using TCSS's MHS, SaberForge's ASP, or something else. Does anybody know of any curved hilts that are compatible with either of these or another custom hilt system?
Force Relics sold me a couple curved bone parts that had MHS adapters embedded so you could use with MHS parts. You could contact them and see if they still offer that product or another curved part,
MTFBWY
-
Has anyone picked up any of 89 Sabers hilts , they look really good, wondering if they are worth the money?
-
Has anyone picked up any of 89 Sabers hilts , they look really good, wondering if they are worth the money?
I have not personally but they have a very good reputation. It's run by the guy who used to work with Parks, who started his own company when they had a falling out.
-
Looking at his website, it seems he resells the same Parks/Korbanth sabers that many others also sell.
-
If you want to share a video taken off your I-phone how can you share it on Face-book without taking forever to up load?
-
Looking at his website, it seems he resells the same Parks/Korbanth sabers that many others also sell.
Based on the reviews of the 89sabers' Sidious that I've seen and the pictures of the Mace, these are not at all reproductions of Korbanth/Parks hilts. I ordered a Mace that I'm waiting on. They're supposed to be derivative of MR hilts I believe, but I think 89sabers used to manufacture hilts for Parks in the past.
-
Hey, i was wondering if anyone has any experience with actually buying a hilt from 89sabers? i bought a graflex hilt from them 6 weeks ago, havent received anything, dont have any tracking info, and when i message the guy, he told me that the hilt got lost by his agent. this was only after going back and forth with him for 3 weeks. He just doesnt seem to be either honest, or organized enough to get a hilt in the mail. either way i'm getting to a point where i'm going to call my bank and stop payment. but i was hoping anyone on here might have some past experience to help me decide. thanks very much!
-
I've ordered 4 hilts from him. Qui Gon Jinn, Windu, Sidious, and a Dooku....
I placed the order knowing that the Dooku is still not done and the Sidious was also out of stock. This was back in August. I was hoping I would've seen the Qui Gon and Windu by now but we discussed shipping them all at the same time so I haven't been to worried about it yet. He always responds to my emails and I put them on a credit card instead of a bank card so if I have to i can get it all back but I talked to LDM recently and he said that he's fully expecting Windu hilts to still be coming some time soon and KR certainly had a bunch of those Sidious hilts so? Not sure?
I was starting to wonder myself what's going on but it's probably more likely that he's just over promised or underestimated how quick he could get all these hilts ready?
In your case, saying it got lost in the mail? I don't know... you got me thinking
-
Can any of you tell me in Rogue one ;which, light saber did Vader use? ROTS or ANH?
-
So I am looking to purchase the original Graflex FX Saber given to Luke from Ben (Obi-wan) Kenobi is Episode IV. So I have a few questions.
Q1) What is the actual price to have one ordered?
Q2) Where do I go to put in a order if this replica?
Thanks:)
-
Hey Guys I've got a Force FX Black Series - Luke Saber and the battery carriage wiring has broken off all the connections Does someone have a wiring diagram so I can re-solder them?
-
A great thread! Thanksss
-
Does anyone know where to get the most authentic graflex esb lightsaber. I know about the usual places like Saberforge and Ultrasabers but feel there are better, more authentic options out there.
-
The most authentic is to use a vintage of course but if looking for a replica the
latest form Graflexshop is supposed to be very close now (should see my sample soon)
Depending on what all your looking for there are numerous options.
What exactly are you after static prop or a functioning saber?
Although Not an ESB I did just list an ANH vintage for auction.
FX-SABERS Graflex 3 Cell Lightsaber & Display - A New Hope / The Force Awakens - (https://www.ebay.com/itm/143129391918)
I do plan on doing a Vintage ESB on the horizon so keep an eye out for it :wink:
-
Good day. I am new to this forum. Can i ask whoever is an expert regarding my problem. The chorme part on the bottom of the hilt of my darth vader force fx lightsaber faded and showed the yellow plastic underneath. Is there a way to remove this part so i could repaint it? Thank you so much for any intelligent input and insights.
-
Good day. I am new to this forum. Can i ask whoever is an expert regarding my problem. The chorme part on the bottom of the hilt of my darth vader force fx lightsaber faded and showed the yellow plastic underneath. Is there a way to remove this part so i could repaint it? Thank you so much for any intelligent input and insights. I wish it was real metal (stainless or aluminum) so there is no problem about fading color (chrome). Has anyone encountered this problem? Thank you for any input.