I cant tell you guys how many countless hours i have spent pouring over the details in his construction of these Master Epic Lightsabers, and i can only think. This guy basically sets up a road map on the constructions of his sabers. No secrets. No "Jedi" mind tricks. He lays it out there as a guide to show you what can be done....... And, like everyone out there I wish I could own one. If anybody has one, let me know. Sloth its BEAUTIFULL!!!!!!
The only one I know of that has a slothsaber on this board is CordaroyFog. You might ask him what you want to know. I think the latest report from him was that it was visible in direct sunlight.
Dang! I have retinal damage from a photo! Sir, your work is top notch!
Thank you, hold on to your sunglasses, here comes more....
Not sure if this is good info or not, but if I can write up a seriallel tutorial, this would be it.
Ok, Here's how I make Seriallel blade strings. Click the pic for annotations.
A: Untouched LED with intact dome lens.
B: Sand or drill out the top of the dome lens. This will more evenly diffuse the light out to the sides, instead of out the top, as they're designed to operate.
C: Fold the leads out 90 degrees to either side.
D: Fold them down sharply right outside the boundary of the LED case, as if you're making room for the next set of leads to slide down flush.
MAKE SURE YOU MEASURE THE NEXT FOLD!!! If I want 96 LEDs in my string, in a 34 inch blade, I have to fold that next 90 degree bend right at 0.4 inches. Don't get in a hurry.
Consistency here = success.E: Start assembling them, taking care not to shorten them much as they're being folded together. CONSISTENCY HERE ALSO IS IMPORTANT if you want a straight string, which will be VERY important in the last steps. Also bend out your leads when folded as such, it makes soldering and trimming so much easier.
F: I have ONE SECTION of eight LEDS. Let's call this SECTION A of SEGMENT 1. I will have two SECTIONS per SEGMENT. And the CFLS will drive SIX of my SEGMENTS.
G: ONE SEGMENT ASSEMBLED, soldered and leads trimmed.
WHEN ATTACHING SECTION 1 TO SECTION 2: Solder the BOTTOM NEGATIVE lead of section 1 to the TOP POSITIVE lead of section 2. Essentially, once power leaves section 1, it goes into section 2, LIGHTING THE FULL SEGMENT. You might notice the bent lead at the location near the letter G, that is where my POSITIVE WIRE will hook into SEGMENT 1. CHANNEL 1 of the CFLS CATHODE will hook into the BOTTOM NEGATIVE side of SECTION 2.
Now. If that's not all confusing by now, good job. I know it's a lot to take in, but believe me, if you do it right, and consistently, and five more times, you'll end up with this:
And if you turn it on, supplying 7.4 volts ...
Sunglasses, people...
You'll see heaven.
These are 60,000 mcd green LEDs. The brightest I have worked with, and they're seriously painful. They won't even be overdriven on the CFLS.
BUT THEY COULD BE!Also, the reason I am putting this out there, is not only to help you folks who want to try it, but to help Erv' as well, as he has helped me immeasurably. I hope this makes owning and operating the CF-LS more attainable. In my opinion, it's the best board in existence.