I know a lot of this can be confusing but your on the right track
and asking questions and testing before installing is always best.
You can do the pseudo color mix but you may be pressed for space in
that chassis where the board sits.
I believe you are using a Tri Cree for the Main LED and because you
are doing the 3 cell hack to the CF
the Main LED run in parallel
and depending on if you want more green or blue in the blade color
will determine what resistance you may want to add per color.
Also depending on the current you want to run through it if your
going to try to max them out then some level of resistor can help
to avoid blowing one of the two Main color LEDs
You will need to resistor the FoC
white LED and to be safe when
doing the FoC you can specify in the configuration file to drop
the Blue and Green down a bit when the white kicks in.
This will help with no drawing to much off a single cell during FoC
for run time and battery life.
For your accent LEDs if you are using a good quality like Kingbright
or Cree SMD or 3mm LEDs you should be able to use a lower Ohm resistor
on those in the 5-20 ohm range as I'm supposing your using Green and blue
in the chamber as well.
Most Cree or Kingbright 3mm and SMD leds are rated for 3.0 - 3.4 volts
and typically ask for 20 mah so the delivery of the 3.3 and 18 mah from
the CF isn't going to hurt anyhting for the colors you are using.
It really becomes and issue if you are using Red Yellow Orange or Cheap Green
accent type LEDs as they have much lower forward voltages.
Again the best thing to do is to attach all your components to a strip of
plastic or breadboard as the electronic minded would say and wire things up
and test to see if you are getting the results you want.
something to keep in mind when working with Green and Blue is the Green tends
to over power the blue visually in brightness and hue when lit up so you can
adjust your color accordingly once you get a look at things under power