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Author Topic: Slothfurnace's Luke V2 Epic Reveal - CFLS - Russrep Conversion - W.I.P.  (Read 47071 times)

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Offline slothfurnace

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Must look away... This is amazing...

Yeah, I think I actually have to as well.  These suckers are rated between 35,000 and 59,000 mcd each.

And there will be 96 of them.

Offline Scruffy Nerf Herder

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Dang!  I have retinal damage from a photo!  Sir, your work is top notch!

Offline silentsteeple

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I cant tell you guys how many countless hours i have spent pouring over the details in his construction of these Master Epic Lightsabers, and i can only think. This guy basically sets up a road map on the constructions of his sabers. No secrets. No "Jedi" mind tricks. He lays it out there as a guide to show you what can be done....... And, like everyone out there I wish I could own one. If anybody has one, let me know.  Sloth its BEAUTIFULL!!!!!!
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Offline Darth Smorgis

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I have avoided reading this thread until now because I knew it would only make me sad.
I am now officially sad.

I have NO words to describe your skill.  Your work is far beyond impressive.
Outstanding job so far.


Offline slothfurnace

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I cant tell you guys how many countless hours i have spent pouring over the details in his construction of these Master Epic Lightsabers, and i can only think. This guy basically sets up a road map on the constructions of his sabers. No secrets. No "Jedi" mind tricks. He lays it out there as a guide to show you what can be done....... And, like everyone out there I wish I could own one. If anybody has one, let me know.  Sloth its BEAUTIFULL!!!!!!

The only one I know of that has a slothsaber on this board is CordaroyFog.  You might ask him what you want to know.  I think the latest report from him was that it was visible in direct sunlight.

Dang!  I have retinal damage from a photo!  Sir, your work is top notch!

Thank you, hold on to your sunglasses, here comes more....

Not sure if this is good info or not, but if I can write up a seriallel tutorial, this would be it.



Ok, Here's how I make Seriallel blade strings. Click the pic for annotations.

A: Untouched LED with intact dome lens.

B: Sand or drill out the top of the dome lens.  This will more evenly diffuse the light out to the sides, instead of out the top, as they're designed to operate.

C: Fold the leads out 90 degrees to either side.

D: Fold them down sharply right outside the boundary of the LED case, as if you're making room for the next set of leads to slide down flush.

MAKE SURE YOU MEASURE THE NEXT FOLD!!!  If I want 96 LEDs in my string, in a 34 inch blade, I have to fold that next 90 degree bend right at 0.4 inches.   Don't get in a hurry.  Consistency here = success.

E: Start assembling them, taking care not to shorten them much as they're being folded together.  CONSISTENCY HERE ALSO IS IMPORTANT if you want a straight string, which will be VERY important in the last steps.  Also bend out your leads when folded as such, it makes soldering and trimming so much easier.

F: I have ONE SECTION of eight LEDS.  Let's call this SECTION A of SEGMENT 1.  I will have two SECTIONS per SEGMENT.  And the CFLS will drive SIX of my SEGMENTS.

G: ONE SEGMENT ASSEMBLED, soldered and leads trimmed. 

WHEN ATTACHING SECTION 1 TO SECTION 2: Solder the BOTTOM NEGATIVE lead of section 1 to the TOP POSITIVE lead of section 2.  Essentially, once power leaves section 1, it goes into section 2, LIGHTING THE FULL SEGMENT.  You might notice the bent lead at the location near the letter G, that is where my POSITIVE WIRE will hook into SEGMENT 1.  CHANNEL 1 of the CFLS CATHODE will hook into the BOTTOM NEGATIVE side of SECTION 2.

Now.  If that's not all confusing by now, good job.  I know it's a lot to take in, but believe me, if you do it right, and consistently, and five more times, you'll end up with this:



And if you turn it on, supplying 7.4 volts ...







Sunglasses, people...










You'll see heaven.

These are 60,000 mcd green LEDs.  The brightest I have worked with, and they're seriously painful.   They won't even be overdriven on the CFLS.  BUT THEY COULD BE!

Also, the reason I am putting this out there, is not only to help you folks who want to try it, but to help Erv' as well, as he has helped me immeasurably.  I hope this makes owning and operating the CF-LS more attainable.  In my opinion, it's the best board in existence.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2013, 07:05:46 PM by slothfurnace »

Offline EXAR KUN

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Thank you this is a great tutorial.

I think it will help me plus a lot of other people.



Offline Padawan23

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MY EYES!!!! That is seriously some awesome stuff, thanks so much this guide is gonna help me so much with later builds  :)

Its unbelievable how straight you get each segment! They look identical by the millimetre, sir you are amazing. I also agree this board is the best one out there. Awesome stuff

Offline cordaroyfog

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Indeed my slothsaber is the envy of all who gaze upon it! It is viable in direct sunlight and turns you to stone if you look directly at it.

Offline scottjua

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Awesome thanks for the tutorial Brad! Such a huge thing you don't even know.

Heck the cfls is my favorite and I haven't even finished mine yet. I just LOVE string blades.

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Offline slothfurnace

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Awesome thanks for the tutorial Brad! Such a huge thing you don't even know.

Heck the cfls is my favorite and I haven't even finished mine yet. I just LOVE string blades.

And here's some more info...

Seriallel Sloth Blades: Part two of two



I usually wire a white stranded 28 or 30 gauge wire from POSITIVE connection (A) to POSITIVE connection (B), and so on and so forth down the blade string, bridging ALL the POSITIVE connections, weaving the wires into the ladder, taking care to make them as short as possible, yet keeping my spacing BETWEEN segments correct, as the wires weaved between segments will be the only thing keeping the string together at this time.

Point C is where the NEGATIVE (Cathode) Connection is made, usually with white 28 or 30 gauge wire, and woven down through the string to the base.

When you're done, you'll have ONE POSITIVE (ANODE) Wire that will leave the base, and go to the POSITIVE pad on the CFLS.  You'll also have FIVE wires woven from the end down to the base.  THE SIXTH NEGATIVE (CATHODE) wire will come from the NEGATIVE side of segment 1, and join the wiring harness with the other five Cathode wires going back to channels 1-6 on the CFLS.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2013, 08:40:46 AM by slothfurnace »

Offline slothfurnace

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Oh and here's a little test...



Sunglasses warning.











Same exposure, just with a ten second delay while I plugged it in.

Now, That's at setting 1000 out of 1023.  At that setting FOC isn't very visible, but let me tell you, it's plenty bright at setting 512, with FOC set to full blast, and it's SHOCKING how bright FOC is.  I am totally surprised and impressed at how the CFLS Main String FOC works.  It's beautiful.

I need to get more work done, so I can actually take a video.

Offline slothfurnace

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Also, with using the Lux Meter Iphone App, I get this result...



Though with the flicker settings, I saw it spike into the 4,300s, I just didn't get a shot of it at that point.

Offline slothfurnace

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Little more testing,



now getting close to the blade brightness I want.



I noticed on the power supply that the string could take 8 volts.  Too bad the pack is only 7.4, as I think I could overdrive this into ultimate brightness.  However, I don't actually think I ENJOY it being that bright.  I mean, if you have a saber you can't even look at, what's the point?



Offline scottjua

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lol... its awesome. Video needed. ^_^

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Offline Goodman

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I thought blindness IS the point, Brad? Who needs eyes when it's so bright you can tell where it is just by its ambient heat output?  :P


P.S. IWANTTHATSABERNOWNOWNOW
**I AM RETIRED from saber commission building**

 

retrousse