Here are some notes to help you disassemble and reassemble the Obi saber. When you receive the saber, there the saber will be mostly assembled minus the internal switches and small parts. You will also find a length of plastic tubing to use as an electronics shield in the pommel (you will need to cut this yourself), and you will find a bag containing the blade tip, blade metal slug, blade washer, 2X recharge port plug, sound vented pommel cap and a bag containing 2 switches a purple hemi and two rubber o-rings. If you opted for the AOTC purple hemi, you will only have 8 pieces in the bag and will not receive the purple hemi or 2X rubber o-ring.
I do not have new pictures, but will use some from the original run, they are nearly identical.
You will need to purchase the LED and optic unit you will be using, as well as sound card, batteries, speaker, blade tube and any other items needed for the install (wires, solder, shrink wrap, etc). The speakers are this one AS04008CO-R PUI Audio, Inc. | Audio Products | DigiKey
You are free to try a different speaker, but the saber was designed to hold that particular speaker and I make no promises anything else will fit.
I will post the assembly instructions, disassembly is the reverse.
You will need a .05" hex wrench, phillips (cross) screwdriver and a flat screwdriver (I don't remember why a flat screwdriver, but it was in the old pictures so there).
You shad a pile of parts that looks like this.
We will start with the emitter head. Gather the parts shown in the picture into your work area.
Take the shroud and 2X 4-40x.125" set screw and 1X 4-40x.25 set screw (the picture shows 3x 4-40x.125, but with the 'red button fix', one of the 4-40x.125 is replaced with a 4-40x.25 screw).
The process for installing the screws is to pass the .05" hex wrench through the threaded hole from the inside of the shroud, put the screw on the wrench, and then screw backwards into the shroud. The reason for this is so the screws can later be screwed out to hold the crown bezel in place and you use the wrench through the blade hole. Make sure you screw the screws in far enough that they do not protrude past the shroud.
Because of the 'red button fix', there will be some departures in the pictures. You do not install the crown bezel over the shroud alone. The longer 4-40x.25" screw makes this impossible until the black grooved section is in place. The 4-40x.25" screw should go in the shroud above the single LED bezel hole (as opposed to the LED holes above the red button and brass valve holes). The black grooved section has a match threaded hole for the 4-40x.25 screw to screw into so you can lock the shroud in place. You can verify which hole this is in the black grooved section as it is the only threaded hole of the three (and it should be bare aluminum as it was threaded after anodizing).
this step is up to you. Depending on your optic module and LED choice, you may or may not want to add this rubber o-ring. It's primary purpose is to add some sandwich room and shock protection for the optic lense. If you have a taller LED and optic, you may want to pass on the o-ring - it won't hurt anything if you do not use it. This is a hangover from the original design that used the LEDengin 10 Watt BBBB LED.
there is a single 4-40 tapped hole on the side of this section, you will be screwing in a 4-40x.125" set screw.
Make sure the screw does not protrude into the bore of the emitter head.
Take your LED, optic and heatsink and assemble into the emitter.
Gather up the two switches and the white delrin switch spacer.
Take the larger black LED switch and glue this onto the delrin spacer. There are alignment holes milled in the channel of the slot for this switch, so make sure you have them in the correct slot (this slot is also wider than the other two slots)
This switch is a K5ATWH43GP http://www.ckswitches.com/media/1484/k5at.pdf
Glue the tact switch (MJTP1138A http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/26/MJTP_6MM_4MM_SMD-221741.pdf
)in it's pocket. You may need to test fit the delrin spacer to figure out the correct pocket (or mark it before you remove it the first time). The third channel is for the LED wires to pass through to the rear of the saber.
Take the switch space and install it into the emitter grooved section. Make sure it seats all the way down, it is a tight fit. You can look through the red button and brass valve holes to make sure the switches are centered. Once it is lined up properly, tighten the 4-40x.125" set screw to lock the switch spacer in place.
Glue the purple hemi on the polycarbonate extension. You may want to test fit this to see if you want to shorten the polycarbonate at all to suit your liking on purple hemi placement.
Verify that the LED switch is pretty much centered in the red button hole (the one with the square pocket). Also verify the brass valve tact switch is likewise centered.
Take the small black anodized square switch plate and set it in the pocket on the emitter. This plate has a flat bottom and a radiused top. The flat bottom goes down into the pocket. Don't worry that it looks too short, it is supposed to to allow move the red botton to move up and down when pressed.
It is not time to assemble the rest of the emitter head parts. (remember, the crown bezel should not be installed on the shroud yet - even though it shows like this in the pictures).
You will need to screw the 4-40x.25" (long) screw out of the shroud so you can slip it over the emitter grooved section. If you installed the screws correctly, this long screw should line up with the threaded hole in the black grooved section. Now back the screw back into the emitter grooved section to lock the shroud on.
Screw the red button into the switch plate. Take care you do not screw it in to far, and check for the 'clicky' feeling so you know it is depressing the switch when you press the red button.
Screw in the brass valve. Remember to install the purple hemi/polycarbonate stem before you add the brass valve.
A not about the brass valve. In order to use the 5mm amethyst cabochon, the original o-ring is removed from the brass valve. You can replace it with the 2x o-ring include or leave them off, your call. But the small o-rings can easily fall out of the brass valve if the purple hemi is a little low. If you use the o-rings, I suggest a little adhesive to hold them in.
Again, despite it showing in the previous pictures, the crown bezel should not be installed yet. Now you will add it to the shroud and using the .05" hex wrench, insert the wrench from inside the blade bore, through the emitter, and tighten the screws to lock it in place.
You can then screw in the blade plug. Note here, if the blade plug does not screw in easily, you may need to loosen a set screw of the crown bezel and tighten the other two to re-center the crown bezel. It can take a few tries to do this so the blade plug screws in easily.
The emitter head is now assembled.