Graflex Replica Build - WIP

[Anceem Llevik]

So a funny thing happened to me this summer. I took my son to the  "Star Wars" exhibit at the Science Museum of Minnesota. I hope everyone had a chance to see it sometime over the past few years as it traveled the country. I believe it's headed for Australia next, H@rry89! Anyway, I bought the "Making of Star Wars" book in the gift shop, which is a MUST for any fan. If you know the book, you know the cover has the shot of GL and Mark Hamill on the cover. I have never felt a dramatic attraction to the Graflex saber, but reading this book and seeing that saber hanging on Hamill's belt for months had some sort of effect on me. I was all in!

So earlier this month I started trolling ebay for a Graflex, vintage or replica, I didn't care. I found a replica, and bid early on the last day fully expecting to get sniped at the last minute. Well, I didn't. So here it is on my desk, and is it ever something to hold!  While I wait for my Do-Clo custom, I've decided to make this my first foray into assembling my own saber. I've read it's not easy, but I'm excited to try something new. That said, I'd like to ask for a couple of opinions…

1. I was leaning towards doing it ANH (since the hilt came with the button strip), but am reconsidering ESB. How difficult is it to add the screws on the ESB grips? I'm intimidated by drilling that many holes. Do you put the grips on first and then just drill through them? I also like the D-clip on the ESB version better. It just looks sturdier. I also like the stamped foil tape better. I guess I could do a hybrid if the grips are just too much for me.

2. What's the best blade for this, and is there a different answer for the two different styles?

3. Any other pitfalls I should be aware of?

I'm going to order the GraflexShop conversion kit, and get my grips and (and maybe ESB circuit board) from Blast-Tech, and the D-clip from TFX Studios. Oh, yeah, and I've got a US 2.0 on the way. With any luck, I might have a fully-functioning Graflex by Halloween! Thanks all, I know I can count on some great advice here, and I'll post more pics as the supplies come in. Photos don't seem to want to load tonight, so I'll try again tomorrow (it's not like you don't know what it looks like!).
Anceem

EDIT - Photos added.

[darthmorbius]

Well you don't want to drill through the grips and the hilt at the same time... That could spell disaster for the grips themselves...


I forget where I saw them, but there is a site that has downloadable paper templates that you can use to make sure your holes line up right...

Another thing you might consider is speaking with Yoda. he may be able to swap an ESB bottom for your Undrilled one. Don't quote me on that, but it may be worth a shot.

Also, you are going to need to remove the "beer tab" under the Red button for an ESB version that is accurate.

[Anceem Llevik]

Thanks, DT. I did some searching and found this site that has printable spacing guides for the grips. It also discusses both versions of the saber in great detail for anyone researching them.

http://www.partsofsw.com/reference.htm

[Luke S.]

Anceem,

I'll be back on in an hour.  I have been flying all day and am just now getting my first bite of the day.

I'll hook you up on my build in a few.  The Australian outback is calling.

See ya in a few.

I'm Back.

Yes those are the templates you want but just be careful to play around with the sizing to see how your printer prints them in comparison to the actual size.  I think I ended up with 95%.

You really first need to ask yourself what you want out of the saber.  Movie accuracy, a hybrid, ANH, ESB?  This will greatly change what you want to buy and how to finish the job.

I see your shopping list and it looks great so far.  I wouls splurge it you have the money and get one of Yoda's chassis.  They are the best out there and takes a lot of the guess work out of it for beginners.  He uses the graflex shop blade holder and if you order from them make sure you get the shorter one of the two as the longer one takes up a lot more room that you will want later on for electronics like the US or a crystal chamber.


You are correct that the grips are the hardest part.  The template just tape it on and use it to mark your screw holes.  Be very very careful the bit doesn't wobble.  I would strongly suggest a drill press for this part.  I took a 2 X 4 and cut a V groove out of it with my table saw.  This was the perfect platform to hold the hilt while drilling.  Mine walked jsut a tad but you really don't notice it.  The big thing is take your time, read how to do it here on the forum and then proceed with caution.  It doesn't take long to screw up an expensive graflex.  Yours BTW looks awesome.  Very nice condition.
Make sure you drill the correct holes for the grips.  You need to tap these holes for the screws.  You don't want to use the bolts that will come with the kit as they will protrude into the hilt.  You will need to tap the holes then grind down the screws so they are flush on the inside.  The electronics if you use Yoda's kit won't be able to slide past teh screws if they protrude into the hilt.  I used a bench grinder and a belt sander to shorten the screws.  As I recall if you take one of the supplied nuts and screw it all the way tight the threads left over is what you want to take off.  I then used needle nose pliers to hold the nut and carefully ground down the left over threads.  Make sure you wear safety glasses as I threw a couple of screws across the room.

[Anceem Llevik]

Luke,
Thanks much for the wealth of information! I got my ESB D-ring ordered today. I should have had you pick it up for me as long as your in Australia! I guess $2.50 for shipping isn't THAT bad! :)  I think I'm going to go with a hybrid. I'll the ESB clip and foil tape, but the ANH grips and bubble strip. Sort of "The Empire's New Hope" version, which come to think of it, is what Luke was at that point in the story!
You mentioned Yoda's chassis. Does he sell those without having him do a complete saber? What all is contained in that? Is that this oft-rumored "kit" I hear about? I guess what I really need to know is if I can order a Yoda chassis, does that overlap with the parts kit I'm looking at from GraflexShop?
Thanks for the info!
Anceem

Also, nobody's offered advice yet on a blade for a Graflex. If nothing else, I think I'll get a Do-Clo blade for it.

[Luke S.]

Australian Outback.  :D :D :D  Sorry to mislead you.  I hadn't eaten all day and was on my way to Outback Steakhouse for dinner.  :D :D  But I would like to see Australia someday as my wife is 1/4 Australian.  Her grandmother was a war bride and came here in the 40's.

Anyway yes do what you like best.  The nice thing about the way you're going is if you don't like the look of the ANH grips you can go to the ESB but you can't go back once you drill the holes.

As for the chassis, yes this is the infamous "KIT" you hear about.  I am guessing Yoda will be selling them once the US2.0 starts coming out but I am not sure what his latest is on that.  Best to shoot Yoda a PM.  He is a great guy and should be able to hook you up.  I am putting words in his mouth that I really don't know the answers to but I would "guess" that he would sell you just the parts needed, ie just the chassis or parts you don't have.  Again shoot him a pm. 

Here's the link to my build and you can see the expanded pic of his chassis kit he sent me.  Look about halfway down the page.

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=6463.45

As for blades that is always the big debate and you will get lots of answers.  For me it is the Ultrablade all the way.  I have heard great things about Do-Clos blades as well.  Then you have the Corbin blade with the laser like core and flare at the end for the movie poster look.  I am not crazy about this blade but it is very nice and also gives you a psuedo ramp effect on ignition and retraction.  The blade choice it just one you need to read about and go with what inspires you.  None of them are very expensive as they are only around $30.  You could get one not like it and pick up another. 

[Anceem Llevik]

Outback. Right. My bad!  :P
Thanks for your continued help, Luke. I placed my Blast-Tech order for the ANH grips and ESB foil tape today. I PM'd Master Yoda to inquire about his chassis availability, so until I hear from him I'm going to hold off on ordering from GraflexShop. It might mean missing out on Halloween, but it would be worth it if the price is right. That might be the biggest determining factor. I'll keep you posted.

[robiwan]

Good luck on your build. While I have not seen Master Yoda's chassis "kit" I'm sure it will be a superb piece of kit.  :D  My Graflex is a mix as well. I have ESB grips on mine but it has the bubble strip in the clamp. I've always prefered it that way. I built my own "chassis" from aluminum tubing from the hobby shop and poker chips! ;D

[Anceem Llevik]

Just an update, as the photo shows below I have received my Blast-Tech grips and foil strip from Texas, and my TFX Studios D-clip from Australia (not the steakhouse  ;) . No word from Master Yoda yet on the DIY chassis, so I haven't placed my GraflexShop order as of yet.
When I'm drilling the holes to attach the D-clip, how many additional holes should I drill to allow for sound? And does it make a difference if it's a few smaller holes or one larger hole? What diameter should I use. Thanks!

[Luke S.]

I apologize for not having the drill size and tap size.  What you want to do is take the d ring screws to Home Depot etc and find the correct thread size.  Buy a tap and drill set.  You can get the combo that has the exact drill bit size for the tap.  You want to place the d ring where you want it on the pommel and use a pen to mark where the holes go.  Also with a removable ink or pencil or masking tape, mark the footprint of the d ring bracket.

Drill the 2 holes for the d ring bracket, tap them and now you need to grind down the 2 screws so they don't protrude into the hilt at all and are completely flush on the inside.  If you don't they will get in the way of the speaker chassis etc.  You won't use the nuts at all.  I use them to clean the threads after grinding them down.  I screw them on all the way, grind them down then unscrew the nuts and they clean out the threads.  This is a poor man's way to do it if you don't have a full tap and dye set.

For sound holes as many as you like.  This is why I prefer the ESB version as the ANH version they will be visible.  Yoda drilled them in a circle around the perimeter of the pommel.  Whatever pattern you like.  For the ESB you can drill them under the footprint of the D ring as long as they don't get too close to the d ring hold down screws or jeopardize the strength of holding the d ring in place.  I you marked out the footprint of the bracket you will know where you can drill and not have them visible as they will all be under the bracket.  I did mine this way as does Yoda and it is plenty loud enough.

 

[MoonDragn]

Looks like we are both working on the same project! Thanks for that link for the grip guide, now I don't have to worry about where to put the grips. I got my grips from TFX studios which has the predilled holes on the grips which will save me a ton of time marking where to drill the holes.

[Luke S.]

Again take your time drilling the holes.  You don't want the bit to walk so make sure you punch it first.  And yes the grip guides work perfect just take your time.

[Anceem Llevik]

I've officially changed the topic from "Questions" to "Work In Progress". That doesn't mean I won't have additional questions, but it does mean that I have enough parts to start the build. The most exciting addition to my collection of parts can be seen below! Almost on cue, my Graflex guru Luke Skywalker (see posts above) decided to upgrade his Graflex to a CF, which meant a new chassis was needed. The timing for could not have been better, and the photos show his old chassis on MY desk! As I understand it, this was a prototype of sorts that Master Yoda made and sold to him to test the feasibility of the DIY Kit Chassis. While it's probably not as flashy as the new versions I'm sure he'll be selling soon, it's everything I could want for my build, and I think it's kind of cool to own a small piece of Yoda history!
I'll post more soon, as I'm going to work on attaching the D-clip first.

[Anceem Llevik]

Like I said earlier, I'm starting with the D-clip. I'm using the ESB clip for my project. I've taken Luke's advice from an earlier post. As the photo shows I've put a piece of masking tape and traced the clip outline. The two dots on the left will be for the screws to hold the clip. I'm thinking I'll drill a larger hole on the far side for sound and one smaller one more towards the middle, also for sound. As Luke has suggested, I'm using a tap and die instead of the nuts to hold the clip on. I'll update with more photos when I've made some progress.

[Luke S.]

Oh you're killing me with the pics.  I had a hard enough time giving it to the postal lady and now I have to see it across the country.  My poor guted graflex is now in Dagobah sitting on a shelf all empty and lonely.  :'(

You're looking great on the build my young padawan.  I think I drilled about 8 or so tiny holes in my pommel.  Remember drill as many as you like but don't leave the footprint and don't lose the structural integrity of the end cap or the d ring hold down bolts.  Make it look like a pepper shaker.  ;)  If you are super picky like I am revisit partsofsw.com to get the exact orientation of the d ring bracket and how you want to angle it.  I can't remember off the top of my head but I think with the saber together the bracket points towards the computer strip on the clamp with the d ring attached at that end.  I could be wrong though.  Again do some research it you want it movie accurate.

Keep the updates coming as we love to watch a WIP and can also shoot you some advice if you get stuck.