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FX-Sabers Discussion - Including a Gallery of custom sabers. => Saber Modifications & Customs => Topic started by: Matt Thorn on December 18, 2008, 05:07:33 AM
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Here I go, imitating Qui-Gon Jinn's format again. For the MHS saber I'm building now, I really wanted to use a guarded switch from TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Latching-Guarded-switch-with-blue-button-P259.aspx), but my UltraSound 2.0 does not like it. So, I nervously took a stab at converting it to a tactile switch. I'm happy to report that the operation was a success. But it is a messier and trickier operation than the one Qui-Gon described for us (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=14818.0).
First, you should really do this with a latching switch. I tried it with both latching and momentary switches, and the latter proved to be more trouble than it is worth. Suffice it to say, the guts of the two are surprisingly different, and the latching switch is far easier to convert. For the tactile, I used a longish one similar (I assume) to this one sold by TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx).
First, using a dremel, hack saw, or whatever, cut the section below the threads off. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo of the uncut switch before starting to work on it, but the photos below will show where the cut should be made. When you've cut it off, the doohickeys below, as well as a little spring not pictured, will fall out. You don't need any of them.
[img width= height=]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-zR_bCJI/AAAAAAAAACs/nWxn1ctRT-k/s288/IMG_0222.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/9G5MRGiUbD-nWx_sp0SK8A?feat=embedwebsite)
Now comes the tricky part. Using a dremel, small file, or probably both, you need to cut a groove into the threaded end of the switch wide enough and deep enough to accommodate your tactile switch base, which, in my case, was about 6.5 mm x 3 mm. Note that two sides of the threaded portion of the switch are flat. It makes sense to make your groove as if to connect the two sides. Here are a few shots of what mine looked like after I finished making the groove.
[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-0d5RvBI/AAAAAAAAAC0/HZkukQR5Gbs/s288/IMG_0223.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/IOpsRZavmRxNgT6mH1QEpg?feat=embedwebsite)
[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo_Iq_YWdI/AAAAAAAAAD4/DAT8B-EfrzM/s288/IMG_0226.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/UcqpCza7HnKtsxLyziUaUw?feat=embedwebsite)
[img width= height=]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-1_iN-8I/AAAAAAAAAC8/0_BGm8xQ6d4/s288/IMG_0225.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/KS31l5ml9hga6orn-K9QuQ?feat=embedwebsite)
At this point, push the button all the way down. Some portion of the white plastic piece inside should protrude into your groove. Cut or shave this off with a dremel or file.
Next, insert your tactile switch. (Golly, typing that made me blush. :-[) You'll probably need to grind away at your groove some to make it fit. (Gosh, that made me blush, too. :o)
[img width= height=]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-3cqE26I/AAAAAAAAADE/E-VxdyhlVBY/s288/IMG_0229.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/zFEFNHQWG9SrwKVWShs_Jg?feat=embedwebsite)
Now, holding the tactile switch in place, try pushing the button of the guarded switch all the way down. If doing so pushes your tactile switch out, you're going to have to shave the end of the tactile switch until it doesn't. Here's what my tactile switch looked like after it was shaved down to the right length.
[img width= height=]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-2iEh98I/AAAAAAAAADA/-duyci5RT1I/s288/IMG_0228.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/BCT2-O7PFTT8LWKwLMZLtw?feat=embedwebsite)
At this point, if you haven't already, you should solder your leads to the tactile switch. As Qui-Gon pointed out, there are two pairs of leads, but you only need one, so clip the other pair off. (Don't forget your heatshrink tubing!)
Now the messy part. Well, another messy part. You're going to glue the tactile switch in place. I used a few dabs of a gel-type superglue, and for good measure, topped it off with hot glue. Not pretty, but (I hope) effective.
[img width= height=]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-5kf23HI/AAAAAAAAADQ/Ult9nKn7in4/s288/IMG_0232.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/eHzqfX440THOPc0Wga-c3A?feat=embedwebsite)
Voilà. Your brand new guarded tactile switch.
[img width= height=]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUo-7OhvtwI/AAAAAAAAADY/PU0Ol4ipizA/s288/IMG_0234.JPG[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/Lw6yKDYDNtgAWLp6DGO1mA?feat=embedwebsite)
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Whoa! All my photos disappeared! WTF...? The code is all still there, and the URLs are functioning, but the pics are not appearing in the post.
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Apologies. Apparently Picasa doesn't like direct links to images. It should work now. :P
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Thanks Thorn!!!
I was wondering about that!
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Thanks Thorn!!!
I was wondering about that!
Yeah, not very helpful without the visuals, is it? ::)
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Good stuff Matt.
Thank you for posting this, as I hadn't gotten mine done yet. ;) I have to agree that one should not waste their time with the momentary version of the guarded switch, because they are a totally different animal inside.
Now, how about some pics of a working saber with that switch in it? ;D
Topic sticky!
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That's awesome man! I was wandering about that switch and how it would work.
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Good stuff Matt.
Thank you for posting this, as I hadn't gotten mine done yet. ;) I have to agree that one should not waste their time with the momentary version of the guarded switch, because they are a totally different animal inside.
Now, how about some pics of a working saber with that switch in it? ;D
Topic sticky!
Thank you! I'm glad people are finding it useful. Here's the saber I used the switch in. It's an all-MHS saber with an Ultrasound 2.0 board and Royal Blue Luxeon III LED.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.thecustomsabershop.com%2Fpicture.php%3Falbumid%3D42%26amp%3Bpictureid%3D467&hash=5d16f8a23d388389729568fc24f7d1930ffceb49) (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=42&pictureid=467)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.thecustomsabershop.com%2Fpicture.php%3Falbumid%3D42%26amp%3Bpictureid%3D468&hash=c384c2e027b7b31ee23f9d368f6222ad69290968) (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=42&pictureid=468)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.thecustomsabershop.com%2Fpicture.php%3Falbumid%3D42%26amp%3Bpictureid%3D469&hash=be4d4f283d370e9e83c2ae0cab90e52a8f4a5423) (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=42&pictureid=469)
Unfortunately, in the process of getting the choke screwed into the hilt (with two strap wrenches and a lot of elbow grease), I severed the connection on the blue accent light, which was actually my favorite part of the saber. :-[ The problem was too many full-sized quick disconnects in the top of the hilt. From now on, I'm going to use only these little connectors:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmarutsu.co.jp%2Fimages%2Fmm12%2F040503%2F0000000000142326_2.jpg&hash=9faa149a8c825ed58b9a5faf5c8359c61e8decd5) (http://marutsu.co.jp/images/mm12/040503/0000000000142326_2.jpg)
But the tactile switch works great, and I've only had one sudden shutdown since I installed it. The converted switch is not only more reliable, it takes up considerably less room than the unmodified switch. I'll probably never use an unmodified, mechanical plunger-style switch again.
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Great looking saber, Matt!
I just had a conversation with a friend about something like this...there's a lot to be said about a STRAIGHT MHS saber....very sturdy and strong.
How did I miss this thread!
We may be trying this soon...You've done very well.
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Great looking saber, Matt!
I just had a conversation with a friend about something like this...there's a lot to be said about a STRAIGHT MHS saber....very sturdy and strong.
How did I miss this thread!
We may be trying this soon...You've done very well.
Thanks, Master Jedye. This is off-topic, but to be honest, after making a sinktube saber (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=14817.0), building a straight MHS was a bit of a letdown. It's a great saber (I think), but I don't really feel like I made it (as I think I told you in a PM a few days ago). I don't foresee making another MHS-only saber in the near future.
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Great looking saber, Matt!
I just had a conversation with a friend about something like this...there's a lot to be said about a STRAIGHT MHS saber....very sturdy and strong.
How did I miss this thread!
We may be trying this soon...You've done very well.
Thanks, Master Jedye. This is off-topic, but to be honest, after making a sinktube saber (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=14817.0), building a straight MHS was a bit of a letdown. It's a great saber (I think), but I don't really feel like I made it (as I think I told you in a PM a few days ago). I don't foresee making another MHS-only saber in the near future.
Now it seems it is time to build an MHS Sinktube Hybrid. Overlays, cutouts, and accent pieces are some of the cool things you can use with the MHS. I'm a big fan of the MHS method, and It is very functional.
Though Full customs are what I am now getting into. However, there is always room for an MHS saber in my shop for sure!
Big update. And I am glad to see that they are tested and proven for this switch Mod. The only Downside is tearing apart an $8 switch... But the space regained inside the hilt and smother operation of the US 2.0 is Paramount!
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Now it seems it is time to build an MHS Sinktube Hybrid. Overlays, cutouts, and accent pieces are some of the cool things you can use with the MHS.
You've read my mind, Darth Tyranus: that's exactly what I have in mind for my next project. :) And just today I got hold of a broken MR Mace Windu that has a perfectly functioning board, so I'm eager to build a hilt to use it in.
Big update. And I am glad to see that they are tested and proven for this switch Mod. The only Downside is tearing apart an $8 switch... But the space regained inside the hilt and smother operation of the US 2.0 is Paramount!
That's good news. And I agree that the mod is definitely worthwhile. People who have avoided this switch because of the room it takes up inside the hilt might want to give it second look.
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Another outstanding job Thorn, ....both with the saber and the switch. I like this switch and look forward to finally being able to use it with the US2.
Thos smaller QD's are pretty similar to what I use, ...I originally tried mini-tamiya QD, but there wasn't much very "mini" about them, ...in comparsion to what I use now anyways.
Great looking saber, ...btw ;)
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I would just like to say I tried this with great success! I just have to remember not to push too hard when using it.lol sad that my US is borked and won't work.
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Hello.
I always admire.
I expect it from now on. :)
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Hello.
I always admire.
I expect it from now on. :)
Allow me to translate. The Japanese phrase kinoobi intended in this context means something like, "I'm looking forward to your future work," but most dictionaries translate it the word as "expect."
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First, you should really do this with a latching switch. I tried it with both latching and momentary switches, and the latter proved to be more trouble than it is worth. Suffice it to say, the guts of the two are surprisingly different, and the latching switch is far easier to convert. For the tactile, I used a longish one similar (I assume) to this one sold by TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx).
Matt-thank you so much for this tutorial! As I am just about to make my own metal switch using a tactile underneath, I found the pics you posted as well as the advice from the above quote, most helpful-really helped to clarify things visually.
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cool..
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helpful thank you for your post.