FX-Sabers.com
The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => MH Custom Sabers and Repair => Topic started by: CHEWBACCA on March 16, 2014, 08:55:48 PM
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I ended up with 2 of these recently. One that was untouched (hasn't arrived but should be here any day now) and one that already had a 1" blade hole machined into the blade holder. When they machined it they made a 7/8th adapter and after looking at it I realized I had enough space to put the LED in the emitter and with the help of the adapters I could have a good sturdy blade holder. I realize others have done this but this is how I did it.
First I decided to bore out the blade holder a little more so I could make a 1" adapter as well as the 7/8th" adapter. I also machined a little deeper than what was already cut so I could get as much room as possible.
The way I plan on it working is to have 4 small 4-40 set screws in the 7/8th adapter to secure the blade in it and then slide the blade holder with blade into the emitter and it will be locked down with the existing set screw. I will dimple the blade adapter where the set screw is to secure it. This will keep the blade in there for any dueling anyone would want to do.
For the 1" blade adapter I will just drill a hole through it since its so thin. The set screw will go through it and secure the blade. It should be fine but the set screw (was already there) is a little low on the blade so the blade may need to be glued into the adapter. Not a big deal as a blade could be purchased specifically for the saber etc.
both of the blade adapters and the blade plug have recesses in them that secure the LED in place. It shouldn't go anywhere but its just added insurance. They also have a built in blade stop to protect the lens.
alright enough typing here are some pics. I will post more and explain what I am doing when I move onto the other parts of the saber. I am not going to go crazy with it because its just getting a CS but it will be a nice saber.
First I stripped the saber and will do my own worn weathered look that I like to do on all my V2s.
Next I drilled out the blade holder to 3/8th and made a copper heatsink for it. I made it slight oversize so I could press fit it in there...
Here are pics of that
click all pics to see larger pics.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-1.jpg&hash=eadf13d4d572c91db67853f9ae3b44f01301e4eb) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-1.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-2.jpg&hash=461730669b6fc4e8328e43e63229a11d8e50670b) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-2.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-3.jpg&hash=ea0a081c941a03864949b05000ac0d0f0abb7678) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-3.jpg)
and here is a pic of the LED in place
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-14.jpg&hash=f88e964ae8363c16e741df5e39119e164628b9ec) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-14.jpg)
Here is a pic of the top of the blade adapters and plug which shows the blade stop
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-6.jpg&hash=3bad182c8c6e49e0ffbf755e27dc236d171a2369) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-6.jpg)
and here is a pic of the bottom of them showing the recess for the LED lens
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-7.jpg&hash=2c0a872ac4a1db1b97605305a4ce2e2977ae6bad) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-7.jpg)
Here are 2 pics of the blade plug in place
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-8.jpg&hash=e46ea58681046db17be0d381fad1cca29aea9474) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-8.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-9.jpg&hash=555573493b80148500cb5249c53609ca88fa2dc8) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-9.jpg)
Here are 2 pics of the 7/8th" blade adapter
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-10.jpg&hash=eb4994b06400567b1b905500063e1882eba38668) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-10.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-11.jpg&hash=a280583319f50b099521a80db2d5808ff7d3b98f) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-11.jpg)
and finally 2 pics of the 1" blade adapter
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-12.jpg&hash=0442108208b5ffc3c57862636e6b08468083bd93) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-12.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-13.jpg&hash=b7881a115dd3c3dddf590ff4890da0d76d721d79) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-13.jpg)
I hope to have more time this week.
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Nice to see this happening- I had one, but ended up getting rid of it as the custom work needed was a bit more than I was up for.
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Cool, I'll follow that one with interest to see what else you'll come up with!
Good luck :D
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This looks like it is going to be an inspired build! Will be following with enthusiasm.
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Thanks.
Its not going to be a fancy crystal chamber build but it should be a nice show/functional piece.
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This is excellent!
I really appreciate when members take the time to share how they go about their builds.
Thanks for sharing.
-Denzil
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Perfectly fitting bladeholders!
Looks solid when the plug is in place, but functional with multiple blade types. Very cool.
Nice work.
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That looks like it will be a beautiful piece. How thin is the neck? I believe LDM/GG's Hero and V2 were .65", just curious what the comparison is.
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Thanks.
The neck is .66"
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Got a few minutes to work on my machines today. I bored out the part under the graflex clamp and the back end of the saber. I also took a piece of delrin and made a chassis for it to fit the CS and the mini speaker sold at TCSS.
Here are the pics. I am still learning on my mill and like a dummy didn't use the DRO (instead tried to freehand it) so the cutouts are not perfect but they work and will not be seen once the board is in anyway. I am just stating it because you can see in the pic lol.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-15.jpg&hash=e9f47773fad6d744a3b42301a5ffa40a43a13b04) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-15.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-16.jpg&hash=c2eba5fb4021de01b8253f104994219da22c4235) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-16.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-17.jpg&hash=1868fe19a17f4b689b6a209ed318fcfae2857812) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-17.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-18.jpg&hash=aff562b764adcee19ecbb1e82785e124a3b90071) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-18.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-19.jpg&hash=a1e2abeddb3d3d1b4023eba9e16b62fd3e7b6ca6) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-19.jpg)
I still need to mill out the area for the recharge port on the chassis and some slots in the speaker mount area for the wires to pass through.
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Looking really slick. Probably my favorite conversion so far. 8)
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Michael, you are indeed a pro. Admitting to flaws that most people cannot even see! I for one cannot see it.
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OK I finally got some more machine time tonight (I couldn't even get to my machines all week because I was redoing the shop).
Since I am not doing anything to the pommel I decided to vent the sound out the clamp area. In my pics above the speaker mount is on the chassis and is pointing into the clamp area.
I didn't just want to drill holes like I have in the past on similar builds since I have a nice new machine with a rotary table and indexer. I decided I would use a ball end mill and make grooves and then using the indexer drill 12 holes. I am not sure how it will work but it has to be better than just holes without the valleys to spill out more sound...I will see soon enough I guess.
I marked off the holes in the graflex clamp area so I didn't make any of the grooves or holes in that area and then cut the grooves. The outer grooves were cut with a 1/8th ball end mill and the middle one was a 3/8th ball end mill. I didn't want to do 12 holes for the middle since the holes are so big so I settled on 4 (kept the same 12 notch indexer in there but just moved it around to make 4 holes).
The set screw and single hole were done by the previous owner and I aligned my holes with them since the set screw is to keep the clamp from sliding and where the largest clamp gap is.
Here are some pics...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-20.jpg&hash=55b76d0990d6894f72df5625607b26de72641330) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-20.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-21.jpg&hash=f8bd20fb4a025dfa1c865f2449b8f03db8e3b762) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-21.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-22.jpg&hash=9f7a763848c5d70508bff2c02cbb79aac8228cf1) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-22.jpg)
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Those are some clean cuts CHEWIE!
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Thanks Justin.
I think I finished up the machining today. I have to go over my check list but I am pretty sure all is done. Sometime this week I will weather it and then the install.
I machined out the chassis for the recharge port. I machined it with the little pin holes in the front to keep it from sliding once its in and I machined the back through to the center hole for the wires (you will see in the pics).
Also I made the battery holder. I was going to use delrin but I had a thickwall blade that fits the 18650 nicely once its wired and wrapped in heatshrink. I machined the ouside down to fit snugly in the ribbed section. Then I machined a slot in it for the LED wires to pass through. I cut it to the exact length of the inside of the ribbed section so when you screw the center section in it holds it securely without rattling.
Here are the pics...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-23.jpg&hash=28fb6d9747eaa527c3a010b14722ed62c174877b) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-23.jpg)
Here you can see the pins for the port sticking up through the center hole:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-24.jpg&hash=5fe2ead01e91c1441755b5aeeed8c293197a0706) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-24.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-25.jpg&hash=6e01f34c0b19eda87195293c3c82f626529553a0) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-25.jpg)
Yeah there is a lot of dust and delrin debris on the middle pic...didn't think to clean it until the camera highlighted all of it lol. That's the problem with taking pics right after getting the parts off the machines lol.
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I didn't know you had a degree in Chassisology!!!!!
That thing is slick, especially that Recharge port placement man
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OK work was tough last week so I didn't get anything done on the saber (was working on other commissions as well) but yesterday I was able to weather the saber.
The V2 weathering has many different ways of doing it. I like them all and am not sure there is one specific correct way of doing it but I have a method I developed over the years with the many V2s I have done and its my interpretation. I go for a more natural worn look that I think it more what a Jedi's saber would look like from use. I pay particular attention to the grooves and give it a natural worn look inside them (the pics look good but its more appreciated in person) from the fingers.
I use powder coating because the first couple of V2s I did the weathering didn't stay as well as I would have liked. This makes it much harder for me to weather but I like the durability of it better and it actually allows me to fine tune it a little easier and give an "almost worn through but not quite" look to parts of it which would be natural to wear.
anyway on with the pics...sorry its a lot of them but I take a pic and rotate it on one cog of the pommel and take another pic etc etc. I do this to get the full saber weathering...looking toward the emitter and then looking toward the pommel.
I hope you like the pics...click to enlarge.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-26.jpg&hash=2322c8d887d21a21222e805a48d7343b58d189c1) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-26.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-27.jpg&hash=0aee0b8c66ce0bf99208955e450cc276f34e29eb) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-27.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-28.jpg&hash=21c8d672951eec11ad313347ec24b148053245e6) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-28.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-29.jpg&hash=502dfcdce8adfd12bfa40d7f1a826e3e08c2bf51) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-29.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-30.jpg&hash=9380805b8f64c39b1cd9da434e6845eac11c955f) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-30.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-31.jpg&hash=80dbd12e883e91642e3904f77419823d5053faa6) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-31.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-32.jpg&hash=de03dffc3230494ae7a1db905ce3ff8028036dae) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-32.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-33.jpg&hash=2a7034f3bf8a81533386e94773118a86620874b1) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-33.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-34.jpg&hash=c152491b7a98d7d0512adfa40ae2660cd802d911) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-34.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-35.jpg&hash=2b5827a8afcb48a17d79175fed3756d91661b36c) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-35.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-36.jpg&hash=3f05ff2cb12ea0e20afbefad35f10b8d46f31abf) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-36.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-37.jpg&hash=a24cf39f9e0f9b5d1563cd0e0c55805cfd503e71) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-37.jpg)
The LED is mounted now and I will be starting the electronics in a little bit (or tomorrow) and will post final pics and a video in a few days.
I originally had plans on putting this up for auction but someone made a fair offer to buy it so I took that and will be sending it off to him this week sometime.
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The weathering on that looks great! Really nicely done!
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Mh weathering = High Art !
Place that in a gallery and smoke it!
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Thanks guys...
I did a little more work on it and it is now ready for the install which I will do tomorrow.
made and mounted the battery, ran the wires for the battery and LED, milled slots out for the wires to run through and made a small ring to press up against the speaker to keep the cone in place and also to keep the wires away from the speaker cone. I have had a small issue with the glue not holding up on these tiny speakers so I like to mount them where the outer part of the cone is pressed up against something to keep it from coming loose.
here are the pics...
Here the battery is in the mount I made for it. It was a nice fit but to make sure it didn't move under any impact I put small 3m double sided tape (the thin clear kind) on the battery, opened the mount, slid in the battery and closed the mount. It would take a lot of force to push the battery out. This was a cleaner solution than hot glue for me.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-38.jpg&hash=eaf0977b0fa5ab783b7aa28e9fb026ddbed92a0c) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-38.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-39.jpg&hash=8175bb2a775966db4582f37455bf40461deaf07e) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-39.jpg)
Here you are looking down toward the emitter with just the LED in place...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-40.jpg&hash=b6f22dedc06861746fd4f99caddbcfec8dc49284) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-40.jpg)
And here you are looking down toward the emitter with the battery and LED in place...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-41.jpg&hash=63c95c261c03b6b6eae7b59375c4f9aa3abf0012) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-41.jpg)
Here is the ring that I machined to protect the speaker cone...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-42.jpg&hash=0de6d62e8de9e0b5978d101f26686d0cc2c7e006) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-42.jpg)
Here are the pieces apart...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-43.jpg&hash=18b200cce439b3902f38a7f21f9b4340c72e80aa) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-43.jpg)
The Chassis slid in place with the wires coming out (that is just temp while I was test fitting)
Also you can see a small threaded hole in the larger part of the clamp area and one on the chassis. The one on the larger/clamp area is to secure the chassis. It is a tight fit anyway but I wanted it to be extra secure. The threaded hole on the chassis is made for the mounting hole of the CS2 so it will be held securely in place.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-44.jpg&hash=624539d13cff1b483df2445a55ccba1c387a5792) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-44.jpg)
And final pic of the day shows the slots I milled for the wires to run through. You can see the ring I made for the speaker cone in the pic as well...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-45.jpg&hash=3b294d1fb1017f715d8c73233832ed4acad1dd63) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-45.jpg)
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Weathering looks great. Powder coat is my preferred choice as its very durable. I'd love to hear how you did it if you are ever up to sharing.
Chassis and wiring routes are clean and well planned.
Excellent work!
-Denzil
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Thanks,
Its finally finished. Well sort of. I still need to drill and tap the 4 holes for the 7/8th blade adapter but I will do that later when I am working on my machines.
Here are the final pics...
Here are all the wires pulled through for the final time...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-46.jpg&hash=5674752e1fd13df8f7f953dc8e9c42936b89c653) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-46.jpg)
Here is the saber completed and put together...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-47.jpg&hash=34429b6d55cd8ea6b1ad83b86ca8f476eae9ec30) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-47.jpg)
Here is the saber with the lower half unscrewed...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-48.jpg&hash=1a66a5153564ead320832a355fbccf538064fa32) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-48.jpg)
And finally here is a pic of just the sound board on the chassis...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmandysbabies.com%2FRRV2%2Frrv2-49.jpg&hash=c53afd6f0fdbce24944c78d2194ce5bbe10b5fe9) (http://mandysbabies.com/RRV2/rrv2-49.jpg)
Here is the video of it in action...
RussRep V2 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjNzzRg7I_U&feature=youtu.be)
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Awesome work! Your weathering (as usual on your V2s) is perfect! The resonance sounds really loud and clear to.
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That is some tight wiring and construction. Great job man. I look forward to seeing your next V2 with the crystal chamber... I may have to get in touch with you about doing two haha ;)
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Your completed build looks and sounds great!
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Looks great!
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PERFECTION!
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Not sure if I mentioned it to you already, but man this turned out great. Whoever ends up with this will have a masterpiece on their hands.
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Man this is awesome! Really cool custom chassis with the option for a kill key too.
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Thanks everyone...I really enjoyed this build and how it turned out. I kind of hate to let it go now lol.
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That turned out great! Congrats on the very clean build yet again.
:D
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Simple and very efficient, excellent job! ^-^
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Thanks everyone...I really enjoyed this build and how it turned out. I kind of hate to let it go now lol.
You can keep it longer ;)
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Excellent!!!!
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Chewy, that is sweet! Now I want one. Too bad I can't have my original V2 converted.
Bane