LedEngin LEDs: 5W, 10W, and 15W Discussion

[Master Durangus]

Wow Goodman, the LedEngin 10W looks incredible...what kind of power requirements does it have? (Guessing probably 6 batteries?)

[Darth Matth]

I'm already much further HAHAHA, can the 15W LedEngine be driven along with a CF board in a saber???

[xwingband]

Yeah, I really wouldn't recommend tri-rebels for brightness whores... this is coming from the person who sells them.  It's not as bright as it could be since it's still not under one dome.  Tri-rebels are more about the effects you can get and custom blending.  I'd say it should be brighter than the pics, but I'm not there and I'll not back seat drive another builder.  I sell them as parts, "customers" can install them however!

A single centered Rebel done properly will beat a V though.  I took a video to show that.

That's an good idea for comparing them by isolating the spill over.  Those 10W's are bright, but I still don't like having to give 10W of power to them.  That'd eat batteries like a beast!

EDIT: Goodman beat me!  It's about the effects on tri-rebels.  I've actually been too busy but I think I'll finally install a BBW in my K3GR1.

[Darth Matth]

EDIT: Goodman beat me!  It's about the effects on tri-rebels.  I've actually been too busy but I think I'll finally install a BBW in my K3GR1.

Let see it.?  ;D
Give us a link?

[JANGO FETT]

EDIT: Goodman beat me!  It's about the effects on tri-rebels.  I've actually been too busy but I think I'll finally install a BBW in my K3GR1.

Let see it.?  ;D
Give us a link?

these are not the droids you are looking for. Move along.

[Goodman]

Yep, as I said, xwingband said what I said he said.   ;D 



Durangus, the 10W Green needs 14.4V. The 10W Red, however, only needs 9.6V, which is totally doable with a CF or US (see MadHatter's innovative saber on TCSS). Direct drive, easy. Or, on the CF, three dies in series and the fourth on a PwrExtender for clash.

As has already been mentioned, when you're talking 10W/15W, you're well beyond traditional powering/soundboard setups. These will need packs built for the LED, and essentially the entire saber designed around the LED.

To continue the discussion about LedEngins, it is important to note that the LedEngin 10W is produced in both serially connected (LZ440) and individually addressable (LZ420) setups. What does this mean? Well, a serially connected 10W (all colors except the lower voltage red) is doomed to only be a stunt saber, because as we all know no currently available soundboard can handle that much voltage by itself.  But the LZ420? Easy, you just wire two of the four dies in series with a buckpuck and the other two dies to a US or CF and voila, 10W brightness with sound. And the REAL fun part? Wire three of the dies in series with a buckpuck and the fourth die to an MR board and voila, 10W brightness with cheap MR sound.  All it takes is careful engineering for the extra saber guts (extra pack, buck, and bigger heatsink).

For all you "brightness whores" as xwingband put it (hahaha), with me being one of them, that's Win.




For the record, I've already done three of these so I call dibs on the idea of 10W/MR sound, Lol.  ;D I'm using a DPST switch to simultaneously activate both the pack/puck/3Die AND the pack/MR/1Die.

[Weld Twiin]

Thanks for the pics, Goodman! 8)

[xwingband]

I'm already much further HAHAHA, can the 15W LedEngine be driven along with a CF board in a saber???

A CF can theoretically power an 18W LED, but would have no flicker and little effects since it'd be direct driving.

In practice I'd say not without lots of work arounds.  For example I'm looking at the Amber 15W datasheet now... it's around 11V at 1A.  That's only 11W, not it's max, and that'd be pushing a CF to it's limits.  You'd need a 11.1V li-ion pack and that wouldn't work well to drive the LED and hitting the 12V limit of the CF.

You'd need like a 14.4V li-ion pack, an extender to a buckpuck to drive it, and a regulator to not fry the CF.  That's a load of work... I'd charge out the bumhole myself to build it.

EDIT: Slow again... yes, move along.  It's a secret. :P

[Goodman]

Yeah, I really wouldn't recommend tri-rebels for brightness whores... this is coming from the person who sells them.  It's not as bright as it could be since it's still not under one dome.  Tri-rebels are more about the effects you can get and custom blending.  I'd say it should be brighter than the pics, but I'm not there and I'll not back seat drive another builder.  

xwingband, your intuitions were correct. I equalized the pack and reshot a comparison pic between the Tri-Rebel GGW and the LuxV G.  Both are at 1A on fully charged 7.4V packs. This is a much more accurate picture of the brightness...they're nearly dead even even though the Tri- only uses two green dies (the white is turned off obviously).  A Tri-Rebel GGG fully driven would outshine a LuxV by a noticeable margin.



Can anyone tell the difference which is which?

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

Hey there Goodman.  I am not sure the rebel is the only LED that can do the clash flash ;)  I am experimenting with RGBs also ;D  Stay tuned 8)

[Goodman]

You're right about that Alaerra. Essentially any individually addressable LED can be clash flashed... I guess earlier I was talking more about standard color LEDs. Obviously the 3/5/10W RGB and RGBA are all individually addressable for purple + A flash or dimmer R/G/B + A flash.    ....I can't wait to see what you come up with!!! :)y a

[Master Durangus]

The one on the left is the LUX V. *My guess* ;D

[jay dee]

rebel on the left.

[xwingband]

I wouldn't bet on that picture... both are multi-die LEDs with similar brightness, it'd be a guess for me.

Allaerra, yeah that could be cool if tuned just right.  All on should make a white.  Loads of possibilities there too!

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

I wouldn't bet on that picture... both are multi-die LEDs with similar brightness, it'd be a guess for me.

Allaerra, yeah that could be cool if tuned just right.  All on should make a white.  Loads of possibilities there too!

 ;D ;D ;D