QUI-GON JINN's Chrome Saber 22 (CS-22)

[QUI-GON JINN]

Well,  it seems that just like Lays potato chips,  you can't have just one!  My friend in the Rebel Legion Jolly asked me to build him a second saber,  with a special twist this time....a purple blade!  We'll see how that turns out when I get to that part in the build though,  since purple is not really my specialty.  

Here's the concept drawing for this one:


And the parts,  right after they arrived last week on Friday:
 
As you can see,  this is a fairly long saber,  and the main reason for that is that we wanted to be able to use 4-AA batteries in this one,  rather than 4-AAA's like the last one.  AA's last longer at a costuming event,  so I really wanted to make sure this one could use them.

As usual,  I'll be cutting a chrome sink drain extension tube to use as a sleeve over the powder coated parts,  so stay tuned for that!  

[Jin Ke]

Can't wait to see this one...  Love the design...   ;D

[QUI-GON JINN]

I started out with cutting the angle on the chrome tube:


Then,  I thought that before I spent all the time and effort in cutting the grip window out,  I'd better get the hole for the Illuminated AV switch I'll be using in this one drilled just in case there's a problem.  I started by measuring the center on the hole in the hilt,  then transferred that to the tube.....I then drilled a small pilot hole at the mark,  and switched to a larger drill (3/8) bit and drilled that hole in the chrome tube:
 

Next step was to use the 5/8" drill bit to drill through both the tube and the hilt at the same time (I do this to ensure that the holes line up properly):
 

The only drawback to drilling through both parts at the same time is getting the sleeve off again:
 
This isn't really a big deal,  since it'll be covered by the sleeve anyway.  The rest of the hilt is still in immaculate shape....Tim really did nice job on the powder coating for this one!

I'm thinking I'll use a green ring AV on this one:

It's all I have on hand anyway....;)

[DARTH MAUL]

Love that hilt design, Jay. Think a purple blade will complement it very nicely as well. Will keep an eye on the finished product :)

[QUI-GON JINN]

To cut out the grips window in the sleeve,  I loaded the part in the drill press's vise and put the cutting wheel on my rotary tool and started cutting:


A few minutes later,  I had the piece removed:


I cut the corners at an angle so I wouldn't go too far with the wheel and cut the sides of the window.  I'll grind it round using a sanding drum on the rotary tool next:
 

All rounded off:
 



I de-burred all the cuts,  filed them straight and then hand sanded them to ensure that there will be no cut fingers with it and test fit it:

The sides are a little bowed out,  but not too bad.....

 

I think that looks okay!  I'll test fit the switch:
 

Now I need to find out where Jolly would like the CT knob....on the side:

(This is where I'd put it if it were mine)

Or the bottom:


I can always drill and tap holes for both locations,  and just fill the extra hole with a button head screw.

[Caine]

Wow, that is a VERY nice PC job...coupled with your uber-docious chromed sleeves, that is some shiny saber goodness! Looking great Master Qui-Gon!

[QUI-GON JINN]

Thanks Caine!  Tim really did do an outstanding job on the custom PC on this one....like I said before,  I almost hated to cover it up with a chrome sleeve,  but that isn't really my style,  is it?  ;)

Well,  the owner decided to go with the CT knob on the side:



It's a bit off center on the side,  but that's because I didn't want it intruding on the grip window.  That should work well....I like this location better than the "bottom" of the saber because it will keep the CT knob out of the way when you're handling the saber.  It also points the switch forward so when it's on your belt,  people can still see the button,  especially if we wire it up to blink in stand-by mode.

I also had time today to drill the hole for the recharge port:


I attach the actual port to a piece of 1 1/4" plastic sink drain tube from the hardware store,  so the port will be flush with the outside of the saber,  rather than having a big ugly nut on the outside.  The plastic drain piece is cut so it becomes a sort of "c-clip" and simply snaps in place once the charge port is in the hole.


The other parts shown here are going to form the soundboard cradle/mount.  I need to do a little modification to the aluminum base plate,  though:

I added some more holes.....these will allow sound from the speaker in the bottom of the saber to travel up through the hilt and exit via these holes in the front grip:

These holes will be then be partially covered by the angle cut on the shroud.

The soundboard mount will go together like so:

I need to go to the hardware store and pick up 4 nylon #8 spacers before I can start wiring this up....those are non-conductive,  and give me something to attach the soundboard to.

The soundboard mount will fit in the saber inside the front grip:


To make sure there's sound to travel up the hilt,  I also modified the TCSS v.3 speaker mount by drilling vent holes in the back of the mount:


It fits together like this:
 

I also cut down a sink strainer to act as a speaker grille in the bottom of the pommel:


Once I get the nylon spacers,  I'll be able to start on the wiring,  and hopefully,  finish it off this weekend!

[Darth Matth]

Unbelievable, I only have to see some shiny metal tinkeling from my screen, and I know it's yours.
It is making those sabers look very expensive.
Looks VERY good.
Again.

[QUI-GON JINN]

After finishing up JKL's saber,  I felt like wiring up another one,  so I got back to work on this one,  too!

I started by making the battery/speaker assembly:
 
I soldered the wires to the speaker after running them through the battery pack.

Then I put a large drop of hot glue in the center of the speaker mount,  and pushed the speaker into it:

That should hold it in well without making it too permanent in case it ever needs replacing for some reason.

I also glued the speaker mount to the battery pack:

All done!

I moved on to the switch:

I soldered the leads for the switch in place,  using the common terminal,  and the NO terminal,  for "Normally Open."  This is how you wire one of those switches to make sure the saber is off when the button is in the "up" or unpressed position.  Otherwise,  the Ultrasound will go straight into the menu when you power it up.

I then added leads for the led:

The green is the neg,  and the blue is the pos.

The switch all ready to go in:



Next up was the recharge port:

These leads will go to the soundboard,  the leads for the battery pack will have to go on after the battery pack is in the saber.

Before I can do that,  though,  I need to install the switch:
 
I fed the wires for the switch through the hole,  and then slipped the nut onto the wires and tightened it up.


With the switch installed,  I slid in the battery pack and soldered the wires to the recharge port:


I squeezed the c-clip together,  inserted the recharge port,  and slid it in until it hit the hole in the hilt:
 

Next up,  wiring the soundboard!

[QUI-GON JINN]

The first thing I had to do to install the sound board was install the cradle:


With the wires fed through the holes in the mount,  I began soldering them to the board:


When I wire an Ultrasound 2.5,  I prefer to feed the wires up through the bottom of the board,  and then solder them on top,  like this:

This is why it has through-holes in the pads.

With it wired this far,  I decided to test it before attaching the board to the cradle:

Everything worked,  so I can move to the next step.

I need to add the quick-disconnect for the main blade led:

In order to maintain proper polarity with how I wire blade leds,  I had to solder this one through the top of the board.

With that done,  I attached the board to the cradle by removing the wax paper from the foam mounting tape I had previously added to the cradle before starting the wiring,  and pressed the board in place:


I then added the ribbed extension:


All it needs now is the main blade led,  and the wiring will be finished.  I popped the blade holder on for a sneak peek,  too:

I think it needs more chrome.....I'll make a ring for thr top of the ribbed extension on Sunday,  and epoxy it in place.

[The Highwayman]

This saber's colors and the banding remind me of a OL. That's a nice lookign saber You're friends getting. ;)

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

Looking great as always Master Qui-Gon :D.  Tim sure did a sweet job on the PC!

[Darth Matth]

So wow.
This is also a great tutorial, for how to improve our bad Overlords.
Thank you so much.
When ,my Overlord comes back, I'll try this myself.
If I don't find the guts, I'll hope you will do it for me than.
We all have seen what you can do.

You deliver great work.
Alway's nice to follow it.

[QUI-GON JINN]

So wow.
This is also a great tutorial, for how to improve our bad Overlords.
Thank you so much.
When ,my Overlord comes back, I'll try this myself.
If I don't find the guts, I'll hope you will do it for me than.
We all have seen what you can do.

You deliver great work.
Alway's nice to follow it.

This is not an Overlord,  Matth.....it just kind of resembles one....it's all MHS and splits in the middle unlike an Overlord,  which is a one-piece body.  I also have no intention of working on someone else's Overlord until I get MINE.

[Sidneyious]

Tim could make an overlord body with the 10" mhs bodys hes got.