5mm rgb CF 6.1 Wiring confirmation please

[Padawan23]

I read how to wire up a color changing crystal chamber using an RGB common anode led and CF6.1 and im not sure if i understand fully.

I think i have it right but need a little confirmation so i dont get it all wrong thanks.

Set accent led pad number 1 to mimic blade.
Solder common anode leg of RGB to accent pad 1.

Solder:
red led (-) with resistor to accent led pad 2
Green led (-) with resistor to accent led pad 3
Blue led (-) with resistor to accent led pad 4

In this reverse logic set up, if i want red and blue to come on with blade and mimic flicker then i set red and blue in config. file to OFF.

Is this right?

[dgdve]

I have never actually wired one and unless its in the manual Im not sure its recommended, but others will chime in with experience..

I will say.. I dont see what your saying and the cf uses common negative for the led accents pads unless Im mistaken? (so Id assume your rbg must also be common negative/common Cathode type)?

A lot of things work with the cf (and are even safe.. within reason..like the sound hack).. but unless its in the book its probably not recommended so you kinda gotta do a ton of homework.

I hope that helps (Ill check the manual for you right now but I didnt see it before), although Im not a pro cf6 guy

[hedgehog1]

Someone else was checking this same thing in this thread a week ago:

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=39438.0

You will not use the accessory pads,  instead you an a little power off the main blade LED wires and make you chamber perfectly mimic the blade.

If you want a chamber that 'does it's own thing' and not mimic the blade, then a common cathode RGB LED can be used with three resistors and three accessory pads.  Think of the RGB LED as 3 leds crammed into one package.

[Padawan23]

Thanks dgdve for the input, appreciate the help  :)

Hedgehog1:
Love that pic of the hedghogs by the way! I am also a very big hedgehog fan and have been since about i was young :).
That link you posted!!! Its a piece of the puzzle, you see where Erv says "i posted a hack but cannot find the link" that is exactly what im doin, i remember now, it was the mighty Erv who posted it. The way to safely wire 3 leds to have blade pulse using reverse logic. I also cannot find the link but that is what he's talking a bout. The hack/tip trip. Hedgehog1, thanks for the help!  :)
Also, im starting to get jealous of your growing workshop!

[Padawan23]

MODS: would a mod please kindly move this topic to the Plecter labs section? I know I've been here long enough to know where i should put these topics but i made a mistake, sorry! If it were in the plecter labs section i believe it would get answered, thanks in advance!

[dgdve]

I think also maybe guys are confused. (I think I am?)

The link provided by Hedgehog contains a wire diagram that allows the wiring of a "Blade Matching (mimicking)" RGB Common Cathode (shared Neg) Accent led (crystal chamber whatever).

The link seems to have been confirmed by Erv as the correct procedure

____
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Am I to believe what you are saying is a "Color Changing" RGB Common Anode (shared Positive) similar to the type from RS that just simply cycle through colors? (that you can buy in fast or slow change versions??)

(As far as Ive even known) You should only wire 1 led at 5-10ma to each accent pad, the pads are only designed to give 20ma.

All I can say (Im certain once everyone understands your question it will get some attention).. Is to TEST the led in question with a psu and see if its within whats considered "safe" tolerances from what it says in the book.

I know your trying to do something cool (atleast it sounds cool) BUT sometimes a Hack is just that, like the stacking resistors trick with the "soundhack" (there are probably no maual supported "Hacks"). If it works and is recommended, it works.. If it doesnt and its a Hack...... Its "At your own risk" just like the soundhack was (so keep in mind this may also be at your own risk... the cf likes common cathode for accents or bargraphs.. Its set up to regulate and manage energy in that way and the common anode may work.. but may also cause issues, I just dont know... TEST it)

I really hope you can get this nailed down (I know it can be frustrating when a build has to wait for some teeny tiny clarification). BUT consider it as an exercise in patience.. People who know better will come soon and Youll get it (and it will be epic, Im sure).

I cant wait to see what comes of this build!
~dgdve

[Padawan23]

Thanks dgdve, your help is really appreciated! I hope its gonna be awesome  :)
To add more info, im teying to get light flicker which mimics the blade AND have the 5mm RGB to have different colours for different fonts (a colour which is mixed not exactly but close to the blade colour).

Ok i found the link!!!! Here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=38301.msg518377#msg518377

I think it was reply number 25, erv gives a genius way of what im trying to do. Can anyone tell me if what i have said in my opening post, conforms to the correct method Erv gave in his post?

EDIT: thank you Luminara for moving this topic to the correct place. Much appreciated!

[erv]

you have 2 options for now, with the current firmware. I plan to propose a more universal solution in the next version.

On trick is to use the outputs of the drivers, the L+ pad on the CEx and CF main driver (the CF also has the shimmer pad, which is connected physically to the L+ pad of the power driver).
Connect the L+ pad to the anodes of a *common cathode* RGB accent led, and get the cathode return to some negative on the CF (not on the CEx). Each anode of the RGB accent must have a small resistor, calculate the value as indicated in the CF manual (wiring a progressive power on indicator).
That will give you an accent that mirrors both behavior and color of the blade, but only when it on.

The other solution allows you to have a the accent modes (blade mirror, sound mirror etc) applied at any time (including in idle mode, when the blade is off) and with varying schemes (normal, idle, lockup) BUT the color mix will be approximative and will only involve combination of dice (red, red+blue, blue+green etc).

[Goodman]

Fantastic cache of information, Erv! I'll have to try that ;)

[Padawan23]

Thank you very much Erv! This info will help me greatly  :)

I have quite a few 5mm RGB's but are all common anode, i shall invest in some common cathodes and try both ways to test and see which wiring format i deem best in this build. One thing i did have to consider was using inverted logic meant i lose 4 accent led pads for one scheme of lighting where as wiring direct from L+'s i can have more accent pads for other uses. The only thing i can think of when wiring to the L+'s is I need larger resistors, ones which can take the wattage heat. Where as wiring from the accents I can use thise teeny tiny resistors which saves space. Decisions decisions....

Anyhow, I'm gonna be having a lot of fun whichever way I go.

Big thanks to all those who helped and tried to help! I appreciate everyones effort! Especially Erv' chiming in on a Sunday! :)

[erv]

no worries, my pleasure to help !