FX-Sabers.com
FX-Sabers Discussion - Including a Gallery of custom sabers. => Saber Modifications & Customs => Topic started by: QUI-GON JINN on October 19, 2007, 09:33:53 PM
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Being a member of the Rebel Legion, and doing charity photobooths with the 501st. in my area, I decided to put together some inexpensive (so I thought!) saber props for use in the photo booth, rather than handing around my $150-plus sabers! I based the construction style off the two Ultrasaber's Initiates I have, and these are what I came up with:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/4799/FwMSKU.jpg)
I used some of the 1" curved elbows to build what I like to call "Lil' Tyrants", and added a coupler to simulate a blade emitter. The pommels are simple 1" caps. The writing on them is embedded in the plastic, and doesn't want to come off, so it's staying.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3700/tHBf8v.jpg)
the others are made from straight 1" pvc conduit pipe with a coupler and a cap as a pommel as well:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4631/1bP6LS.jpg)
The above hilts are aproximately 10" long, so they would good for a two-handed grip from a larger child.
I also made a couple for even bigger "kids" to use:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2521/ome2MZ.jpg)
All of these little sabers use a Luxeon I Star led, a 15deg collimator, a Micropuck driver and either two AAA or two AA batteries. The blades are 1" thin-walled PolyC with a single wrap of Corbin film and 4-5 feet of another type of clear film for a "Dual Core Diffusion. " Blade tips are from TCSS, as well as the switches.
Here's how the electronics go together:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/539/lWijUh.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9052/2gZCEb.jpg)
Here's how some of them look when lit:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9305/iKUSfs.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/6694/oupv5s.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8594/JUY8vJ.jpg)
And a group shot of the ones I currently have finished (or close to finished, I still have blades to make):
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2084/Nww2IW.jpg)
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Well done, Jay-Gon!
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I also made a double bladed version for myself:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/3969/0vxinx.jpg)
Here it is lit up with borrowed blades:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1386/BxyIqv.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/218/3VC6Bv.jpg)
It splits in two by unscrewing the threaded coupler in the middle. This one uses two AA batteries, and I had to use two single AA holders wired in series because a double AA holder was too big to fit inside the tube. They fall out when the saber is slplit, so I need to come up with something to stuff in the coupler to prevent that.
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Well done, Jay-Gon!
Why, than you Governor!
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Those a bunch of really great sabers there! 8) Nice work my friend!
How much? ;D
I was in Lowes Yesterday fitting different pieces of PVC conduit and couplers together, and the guys there were looking at me like I was from jupiter or something. My reply...."May the force be with you EARTHLING!"
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After I got these wired up with the micropucks, I was very impressed with how bright they seemed and decided to do some comparison pics with two of my MR driven Lux III sabers:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3053/lwDcVC.jpg)
The green Lux III is my Brass/MHS saber which uses a ROTJ Luke MR board, and the short saber is my pvc saber. Not bad for a Lux I!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9857/tGKbue.jpg)
The red Lux III saber here is my first Hardware/MHS saber, which runs an MR Vader board.
A properly driven Lux I is pretty bright, and even lights up a full length blade quite nicely:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/6694/oupv5s.jpg)
These two are borrowing my blades from the two MHS/Hardware sabers I have. They also use the Dual Core Diffusion method , but with a double wrap of Corbin film, and 2x more of the second type of film.
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Those a bunch of really great sabers there! 8) Nice work my friend!
How much? ;D
I was in Lowes Yesterday fitting different pieces of PVC conduit and couplers together, and the guys there were looking at me like I was from jupiter or something. My reply...."May the force be with you EARTHLING!"
How much? As in how much did these cost to make? ;)
I think these have cost me about $36-38 each for parts and electronics. The big cost factor is the micropucks, which came in at about $10 each. Then there is all the shipping charges....
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That's what I meant. How much overhead to build. :)
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That was with the blade, BTW. I have a place where I get the tubes pre-cut to 24". Makes it much easier to put one together. The hilts alone are around $26 or $28, depending on where I got the electronics. The pucks get cheaper with the more you buy...10 of them get the price down to $9.49 each.
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I had so much fun putting together the first batch, I did some more and changed the style a bit:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9757/uqegy0.jpg)
I cut off about 1/2 an inch of the coupler and then slid it onto the pommel end of the hilt to help balance it out some more. I think this looks better than the first batch I did.
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Those look great Jay!
Keep it up man!
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;D
Great job jay!!I think you are one of a few people who can make a lightsaber out of a water glass lol ;) 8)
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Those a bunch of really great sabers there! 8) Nice work my friend!
How much? ;D
I was in Lowes Yesterday fitting different pieces of PVC conduit and couplers together, and the guys there were looking at me like I was from jupiter or something. My reply...."May the force be with you EARTHLING!"
How much? As in how much did these cost to make? ;)
I think these have cost me about $36-38 each for parts and electronics. The big cost factor is the micropucks, which came in at about $10 each. Then there is all the shipping charges....
Hey, that's not so bad for nice looking and inexpensive sabers. The "Lil' Tyranus" sabers look pretty sweet :D. Excellent job Jay! How much were the Lux I's?
-Master Mac
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Ben, if I could find a decent looking drinking glass in the right size, I'd do that!
The place I've been getting the Lux I's has them for $5.99, Master Mac.
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Very cool..... can you put the slanted emitter on the Mini Tyranus with the slant face up?
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These sabers are a really nice piece of work, congratulations for them and for the idea of low-budget assembly!
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Excellent work, jay-qon jinn!
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Very cool..... can you put the slanted emitter on the Mini Tyranus with the slant face up?
Possibly...I have one here that I haven't started putting together yet. I'll see how it works out.
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I made up one with a white led:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6682/xLI31c.jpg)
I changed the hilt style a bit because I thought the full coupler on the emitter end made them look top heavy. So, I cut off about 1/2 an inch and put the extra piece on the pommel end to help balance out the look:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9757/uqegy0.jpg)
Then, I went a head and built another Little Tyrant:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9519/w0LJCz.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1281/mXAQAN.jpg)
I could also set the emitter like this:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/7557/czSf5S.jpg)
As with the rest of the Lil Tyrants, there is still the writing on the other side:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6505/HyzEbo.jpg)
I don't have this one wired yet, as I'm waiting on parts to arrive, and I've got blades to make up as well for the rest of these hilts.
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Killer....... put me down for a little Tyrant with the slant up when your ready to start shipping...... ;D
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I got the Lil' Tyrant II wired up:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8396/2WyLxM.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6490/sikNki.jpg)
Uses a Red Lux Star I, micropuck driver, and two AAA batteries. Shown with one of the 24" thin-walled Dual-Core Diffuser blades.
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;D
sweet jay and I was wondering if you ever thought about making a dooku saber yourself?? ::)
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I have cosidered it Ben, and the curved hilts aren't really my style. Although, I do like the challenge in trying to do something new or different!
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;D
I think you could do this saber as I've seen a lot of your other work and you have talent there on building lightsabers!! :o 8)
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This reminds me of Ultras initiate sabers.These are pretty cool and it looks perfect for beginners.Great job Jay-gon
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I just painted one of the Lil' Tyrants in a silver hammered finish paint I found at wal-mart that is made for plastic. Pictures to come after it fully cures and I've re-assembled it.
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Im interested in a Lil' Tyranus saber in red. How much Jay-gon? I'll probably add some o-rings to the hilt. Can't decide on slanted emitter up or down. They look great. Way to go!
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Scythe, I have three sabers in the for sale/trade section, but I don't think I have a red Tyrant in there...i'll have to look a t my parts to see what I've got.
EDIT:
I have a red/orange up in the for sale/trade thread:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9529.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9529.0)
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Okay, here's the pics of the first painted Lil' Tyrant:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/206/6OqnBE.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7721/W7nCJp.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5341/nC9xP0.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/648/nvqoZJ.jpg)
The last shot shows the paint I used. I also have a can that is either black or charcoal gray, I'm not sure, as I haven't used it yet. I'll try that out on this one:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8396/2WyLxM.jpg)
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That looks pretty sleek Jay. Will you be offering any of the painted models for sale? One of these would be perfect for my little cousin; he's 7 and a budding SW fanatic. :D
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Yup, I think I may paint them all, depending on how well the smell wears off on this first one...the paint is dry, but still so fresh it leaves my hands smelling like paint. I probably won't make very many more until after Halloween, but I have parts to do four more, but I'm planning on keeping two of them....though I may be able to persuaded to sell 'em if someone want one...I can always build more for myself later. I have two red led's, a blue and a green. I have a saber up on ebay right now, and three in the FS threads in the link above.
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Have you thought about selling these in kits?
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Not really...I kinda enjoy putting them together!
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I dont know,it'd be perfect for beginners who want to learn how to build there first Lux(including me :P)
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If I remember correctly, Ultra has a BIY Kit for his Initiates that includes some neat stuff, probably for less than I can do it for...I can't get a volume discount on the led's, drivers, etc. like he can, and I also have to pay shipping fees for all of the electronics. I could do a kit, but you'd have to have a soldering iron and a hot glue gun to assemble the electronics. I'd also have to make some instructions, especially for the Lil' Tyrants, as there is a process to assembling trhose. The standard hilt is easy, just solder everything up and shove it into the hilt.
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Is the BIY kit on his website?
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They are usually in the ebay store, but it looks like he may be out of them.
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I painted up some more this morning:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/6040/L64QV3.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8410/9YCmt9.jpg)
The two Lil' Tyrants there are actually a charcoal metallic in person, but might look black in the pic. I like the way those turned, so I'm painting all of them.
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I re-assembled the green one:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3339/KOvan8.jpg) (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3874/zAth2b.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/8563/lMeIEm.jpg) (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/4051/s5OmKn.jpg)
I decided since I was going to paint these, that I might as well use the original idea I had for the pommels and picked up some more 1" white pvc end caps. These are more like a pommel, and don't feature any writing on them. Remove the screw to access the batteries!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5533/Hxh1Sq.jpg) (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8940/GtEAGr.jpg)
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Here's one of the "Big Kid" hilts all painted up:
Click the pics!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/402/ikXM9A.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9544/xjW2Wr.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8513/gyCLvJ.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/6974/Swm7wq.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8343/blzvQ4.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/9664/wmVSY1.jpg)
This hilt is about 12" long and can accommodate larger kids or adults. This should work well in the photo booth!
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:o
I WANT ONE!!!! Great holy flying eggbeaters batman!
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Great holy eggbeaters batman? ;D
Thats right...
Candyfishcandyfishcandyfishcandyfish!
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Oh sweetness!!!
This big kid wants one right away! :D
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Well, I got some more re-assembled after paint (pics are clickable for a larger pic!):
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1276/a7UwzJ.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2537/PCeHho.jpg)
This is the style suggested by Beggarsoutpost, it's kind of a Big Kid Dark Tyrant, I guess! Like all the rest of these, it lights up one of my full length 32" blade just fine.
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A couple more of the Lil Tyrants in charcoal gray:
Click the pics for a larger image!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7679/WXJToF.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/444/Yidvy2.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5368/DjQEKa.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5459/H5mbYP.jpg)
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I might cobble some PVC together and start building some myself!
I'm really enjoying this topic, and your work is outstanding Jay!
Awesomeness factor 12! 8)
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Thanks, DT! These really are fun to build, and I just sold my second saber to a buyer on ebay! The first went to Arkai Halon over at TCSS!
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Well, I got some more re-assembled after paint (pics are clickable for a larger pic!):
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F000_0266.jpg&hash=162b7290fec15f54d29a60dd36445c1c7a2be51b) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0266.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F000_0264.jpg&hash=cb52794d268cbcb937bac176ad99ae4a45dcc8cb) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0264.jpg)
This is the style suggested by Beggarsoutpost, it's kind of a Big Kid Dark Tyrant, I guess! Like all the rest of these, it lights up one of my full length 32" blade just fine.
yah that is sweet Jay I really want one of these in red can you wait till the middle of this month?........ :)
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Oh, it's not going amywhere...I was holding it for you if you were interested, so I'll just go ahead and hold it a little longer. And it is a red led, but it looks a little orange in the pic....it's a little overexposed!
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My dad just saw these and he thought these were really cool,how much are they goin for
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There are three in this "For sale" thread with all info required:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9529.0 (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=9529.0)
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Will Ultra blades fit on these
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Any 1" o.d. blade will fit.
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Oh, it's not going amywhere...I was holding it for you if you were interested, so I'll just go ahead and hold it a little longer. And it is a red led, but it looks a little orange in the pic....it's a little overexposed!
Yes..... thank you very much sir... do you think there's enough room to drop a Luke soundboard in it? I love the finish it really ties it all together nicely. Your saber instincts serve you well...... ;D If you want to PM me with your payment info I'll hit my pay-pal as soon as I have the cash.
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I don't think an MR board would fit in this saber, maybe a Hasbro. The board would have to be in the curved section. It also uses a Lux I, which is really no big deal with the micropuck, as I have the same set-up in my son's RLSA saber, but I don't think the two AAA's it has will fire up the board.
EDIT:
I just tried an anakin board I have, and it seemed to fit in from the bottom okay, so I guess it might work if you used a stacked 4-AAA NiMH battery pack. Only concern is the speaker....there's not much room for a resonance chamber. I also put a coupler on the pommel end to see how it might look extened, and it looked out of balance with it.
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MR Boards will fit but the speaker issue is where I am having trouble...
Especially in a curved hilt due to balance issues as you said Jay...
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The only issue with the speaker is the resonance chamber, really. It fit just fine, it was right up against the inside of the end cap. My custom machined saber is like that and still sounds pretty good, so it might work. I'd actually rig one up, but I'm still playing with the led strip with that ani board i have. (I haven't cut the wires off yet).
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I finally got around to taking a few pics of the last Big Kid hilt I put together, the "Dark Acolyte":
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/156/WHqJvW.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6711/rGx52w.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/9342/zTmHV3.jpg)
It has approximately a 30" blade, that I tried something different with....I internally sanded the blade because I was out of Corbin film and was wanting to try that for a while. It's not perfect, but it does the job!
This saber runs a Red Lux Star led (looks a bit orange in th pics) with a Micropuck driver, and two AAA batteries.
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You sanded the inside of the blade....... ??? How did you do that? did you put any other film in it?
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Yup sanded the inside, and how I did it is a trade secret ;) I also put in another type of film that is similar to Ultrafilm.
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I'm still working on the process, so the blades I've sanded look kinda funky when turned off, and I plan on keeping those. I'll use them on the sabers I'm keeping for the photobooth, as they photograph well.
Click the pics for larger images!
Here's what I've got finished now, only two more blades to make:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1874/glMO2g.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/3541/J5N7Gl.jpg)
From left to right: Red/O Lil' Tyrant, Abmer LIl' Tyrant, and Beggarsoutposts' Red Dark Tyrant, my Red/O Lil'Tyrnt, and a blue stard Kid saber.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3560/aZh2Ns.jpg)
From left to right:again, the blue Kid saber, a Dark Kid saber in Red, a Dark Kid saber in Green, the Dark Acolyte in Red, A Bik Kid Trainer in Blue, another Big Kid Trainer in Green, and my son's Kid saber in White.
Not all of these are for sale, and I do have pvc to make some more, but I'm out of led's and drivers.
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Good Lord Jay, you have a variable armory :o
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Yeah, I can very easily supply a small army of padawan's with these!
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"Trade Secrets"............. 8) That is one fine looking table of sabers man........It gives me an idea for a coffee table but my girlfriend would probably kill me...... ;D
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Your like greivous :D collecting lightsabers
Sounds interesting that you sounded the inside of the blade
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Hey Jay, why is it that in the last pic the green on the kid saber and the green on the big kid saber look so different?
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The green big kid looks alittle mellow compared to the sharpness of the dark kid
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It's probably just the way the camera sees them...in person, they're the same color.
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That and probably because theres different colors around them :-\
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Pics of the completed set:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1502/VRHW5C.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/1700/Q9W5Dp.jpg)
I still need to paint the double bladed one, and make the blades for it....should be done later this week!
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Cool,now you have a saber rainbow :P :D That double saber sounds great
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yep, i wanna see the doublebladed one!
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Oooh double bladed eh?
Hey Jay-Gon... PM incoming brother! :)
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Double bladed...you heard them right, DT!
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1106.jpg&hash=3dd443646a7d5f39743dd53f506a611664780a3a) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1106.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1105.jpg&hash=4d288e0af7edf4f1da80cfd540ef17ebe6790ef7) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1105.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1108.jpg&hash=e1622f64aaf05084d14de1ee5857a628c4f9147f) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1108.jpg)
This was made with a simple screw-in coupler that can be found at any hardware store/big box store that sells the conduit pvc. The blades are my best yet of the internally sanded ones, and feature about 9 feet of clear film each. The blades look similar to Ultrablades when turned off.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1107.jpg&hash=4c5bbe1f58dee2fb51ee8de4b8a40b11d651b31a) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1107.jpg)
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I would sand the nubs off the cupler parts for a smoother look.
looks great otherwise.
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And since this is my personal toy, and I'm not a Sith, this is the color:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1103.jpg&hash=59f2920e8d1cedbde52ed2d9cbfda18e4673b371) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1103.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1098.jpg&hash=47bdad5b9e7ee54564ff1abd72d11b1b578171d6) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1098.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_1104.jpg&hash=44ce5b925838e884d716811522178027a08bf750) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1104.jpg)
Oh, and DT, PM answered!
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Love how icy that blue looks......... 8)
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I'm still trying to find the perfect setting for taking pics of the blu sabers...it still overexposes them a lot. It looks better in person!
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Where could i get some PVC...? ;D
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Any hardware store on planet Earth...? ;D
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LoL ;D I had an idea for a saber made out of PVC.All I need is my trusty dremel drill,lots of thinking time and a few other things.This might be very cool....But anyway,that double blader looks cool
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Any hardware store on planet Earth...? ;D
Oh, my, then i must be blind!
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Nah,just need to be a more open-minded :D
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Hay man.... ;D. I sent you a PM I think........ :-\
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Me ??? or Master Shui
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Me ??? or Master Shui
Sorry I ment Jay...... ;D
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Im too lazy to go to the nearest hardware store!
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Hay man.... ;D. I sent you a PM I think........ :-\
PM recieved, and responded to!
And I don't think you're going to find too many online places that sell pvc by the foot. I get it from my local hardware store. The led's and drivers I get from an online source. The paint came from Wal-mart, but any decent hardware store should have something that will work. If anyone is interested in doing their own, all you have to do is a little digging on the internet, and you'll find all the stuff you need.
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well, i havent much visited hardware stores recently so its understandable that i didnt know that there is pvc
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I bet you can order some online from Home Depot.
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;D
Those pvc sabers are cool.I checked out do-clo's and I have to say they are cool!! ;D
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Look in the electrical department...
They sell schedule 40 PVC conduit, couplers, elbows, and threaded caps for CHEAP. It also has a bit higher melting point to me electrical codes. ;) Regular plumbing PVC works well also.
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Update .....just received my Dark Tyrant from Jay, man this is one sweet saber I put a 36 " Ultra blade with a pointy tip on it and I have to say the 1 watt rocks that blade...... ;D Nice job my friend and thank you very much....... :D photos to come.....
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Yeah properly driven LuxI leds will still rock socks.
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Holy Thread revivals, Batman! ;D
I decided to revive this thread rather than start a new one, as I have decided to take a break from BS#2's switch dilemma, and throw together some more of these:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7011/bn34lY.jpg)
These are going to basically be the same as before, all powered by Lux I's with micro puck drivers to maximize the brightness and batteries, and either AAA or AA batteries....I haven't decided yet. Some get one or the other. I got all the "machine" work finished and started painting them this morning:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2097/zQqH3e.jpg)
This one is probably going to be red as it's the only one painted in the dark metallic colr, and is a "Dark Minion" size saber. (About 10" long, intended for a 7-10 yr. old).
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4752/cmwBEz.jpg)
This is a special "Light Knight" style saber....it's going to get an interesting paint job, stay tuned for that!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/7235/Jo8leY.jpg) (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5336/tZAYyy.jpg)
This one is a special version of the "Lil' Tyrant" saber. It is similar to the one I built for our very own Beggarsoutpost, and would be classified as a "Dark Tyrant" saber.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/736/Y9inbr.jpg)
This one is for the 501st's photo booth...I have red and green Ultrasabers Initiates for that, but since the green one doesn't work with the green screen background, I am going to make this one blue. Speaking of my US Initiates, those have had the grip material removed, and are also going to get grip marks and a special paint scheme.
These next two are basically the same thing, what I call a "Light Youngling" style of saber:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3184/QL7J62.jpg)
This is the basic style for my Light Younglings, with some more detail marks added in. I may also do the special paint on these as well. The next one in this size is something a bit different:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8435/Yq9MBL.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4999/OsKiHv.jpg)
I decided I wanted to see what one would look like with a straight cut emitter end, and also added the "chamfer," to help give it a bit of detail there as well.
I don't have led's or drivers for all of these yet, but I have everything else. Some of these will most likely be for sale, too. I'll post those in the Trade Federation, as long as Yoda approves.
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UPDATE:
The paint has dried on most of them, only one left to go. Actually, I have another hilt that is short a piece so I can't paint it yet. Here's the ones that are done so far:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5619/A7n95R.jpg)
You can see pretty plain what I did differently to them regarding the paint. I masked off the rest of the saber except for the grip section and sprayed a few coats of the graphite color on them. They turned pretty good, and make them look a bit more like a real saber hilt.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4691/NHhtE0.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3213/hThARd.jpg)
I also did the Ultrasabers Initiates that I have for our photo booth. I had to remove the foam grip material, as it was seriously degrading from all the handling these get at an event, and added grip marks instead. These will not be two-toned.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9161/3qhQIh.jpg)
Here's the one I'm waiting on to dry:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3687/faXmDU.jpg)
I'll probably set these out on the patio table in the sun to help cure the paint. there's a nice breeze out there, so that'll help too. After that, I can re-assemble the two Initiates, and also two of the larger sabers.
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Those look awesome Jay. The metallic look really livens them up. You would never guess they were PVC.
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Yup, they look like metal until you pick one up and you feel how lightweight they are! Here they are, all painted and catching some sun:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2966/YUyfKs.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5278/jKRmHM.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2889/rH8PU8.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/6235/pQr6yY.jpg)
Now I need to get a couple of these wired back up.
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Very neat and creative! I see promise! :) Good work Jay! I'm keeping an eye on this thread. I'm curious how all these turn out.
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I remember back in the day-- 10 years ago probably, I used to make PVC sabers like the ones above. Back then nobody was putting LUX's in them. They were just props.
Does anyone remember Yellowbox or something like that .com?
Cool sabers. :)
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Who doesn't remember good old www.bigyellowbox.com? That site is a classic.
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Thst's not the right link for "Lightsabers from the Big Yellow Box, Aluke...that links to an old crayola webpage. The correct address is:
Lightsabers from the Big Yellow Box (http://bigyellowbox.tripod.com/)
Anyway, back to these:
I finished off one of the Light Younglings:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2604/jUpyUg.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9996/74xrzv.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6888/4JIbpc.jpg)
This one runs on two AAA's and uses one of my last 3 of the Corbin Film Dual-Core Blades. I have 4 more blades that have been internally sanded for these, but I need more blade tips before I can finish those. I also don't have any more of the micropucks, or leds for that matter. I have one red Lux I and that's it. I hate running out of parts and money at the same time!
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Thats pritty cool there jay. Intresting stle you have with that one. ITs kinda like a design I did for a persional saber a while back.
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Jay-- I have a couple extra "Cyans" (bin 5 :( )
if you want one your welcome to it.
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Thanks, JP, Iyou have an in coming PM. I did just get a box of leds in the mail yesterday, so I can finish off a couple more of these now. So, I have 2 bin 4 reds, a bin 1 blue, and a bin 2 green. all are Lux I's and should finish these off nicely. A couple of these may already be spoken for, though, so I may have some extra leds to use later.
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Thanks for the info..
looks like I head to "electronics 101"...
lol...
where I sew, do leatherwork, plastics and you name it...
electronics....
not so much...
;D
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Thanks for the info..
looks like I head to "electronics 101"...
lol...
where I sew, do leatherwork, plastics and you name it...
electronics....
not so much...
;D
Well, then this will complete your training! ;D
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Wow this topic is old... I'm so glad someone revived it. Very good pics Qui-gon. Gives me some ideas for Christmas presents... ;D ;) 8) 8)
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I've had a few questions recently, from here, TCSS and also through youtube (believe it or not!!) on what holds the blade in place. It uss a two-part system; the first part being a threaded insert that looks like this:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2Fa6ff29ef.jpg&hash=a99ade38c875c49eff656e1a3c082faa3516eb6e) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/a6ff29ef.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F7f8492f6.jpg&hash=a34971418e4ba372da1f32197caa04c1a7f56d18) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/7f8492f6.jpg)
These can be found at any full-line hardware store, and are sometimes found in with the furniture hardware. I used the size for an 8-32 machine screw. You'll notice that the insert is threaded on the outside as well as the inside. The outside threads work just like a wood screw. Drill a hole just smaller than the thread size, and screw it into the pvc using the appropriate size hex wrench.
The screw will look like this:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2Fa084c918.jpg&hash=cc3d9a8fc6f591afac78c003ad14b72b81c6d8f7) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/a084c918.jpg)
All together, the pieces fit like so:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F88774bd3.jpg&hash=0586733a4f673cbe8f032e5d0916b6228cbdfb9c) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/88774bd3.jpg)
Here's how it installs in the saber:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4562.jpg&hash=3d59bb9ea48be7d6b20ab0c05f006c904bfcde16) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4562.jpg)
I screw the insert into the hilt first. This is the reason I used a pvc coupler on this section of the hilt, because the coupler gives the saber enough thickness for the threaded insert to fit and not stick out too far from the outside of the hilt, or into the inside of the hilt.
If the insert seems to have too much resistance on it to screw into the hole, try enlarging the hole with the next size larger drill bit. If you try to force it in with too much force, the insert could jam, and split.
Here it is installed:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4563.jpg&hash=37611a379f416b4c53262d9e817a6aadce2f4d22) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4563.jpg)
Now, we'll just thread the screw into the insert:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4564.jpg&hash=c31d1bcc16afd1aec87b20ba01eb0493acba82a3) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4564.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4565.jpg&hash=3ab5a68512e9397bab12e4de1a8e4b152597e99e) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4565.jpg)
Don't tighten the screw all the way in, just get it started. Screwing it down tight will prevent the blade for being inserted all the way. Insert the blade:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4566.jpg&hash=69dc4a2e4ecacdd5f4072a168eb62afa741c8318) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4566.jpg)
See the indentation, or divit on theblade? that is where the screw contacts it and presses it against the other side of the blade socket in the hilt.
DO NOT DRILL A HOLE IN BLADE!!!!
It is unecessary, and may damage the blade diffuser/and or film.
Next, tighten the screw snug with the appropriate hex wrench (9/64th in this case):
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4567.jpg&hash=8705ee66e0ee28cc34f4c33a17c808820ccc509b) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4567.jpg)
Now, you can have fun with your pvc saber:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4568.jpg&hash=c948e7b0936f71617473bcdb09f7e330ca959971) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4568.jpg)
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Thanks so much for posting the details on this step! I hope to build one of these as a father son project and your guidance is greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Lonewind
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I'm with Lonewind, thanks so much Master Jinn! What's the name of the insert you used (like if I was looking for it in a hardware store)?
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I'm with Lonewind, thanks so much Master Jinn! What's the name of the insert you used (like if I was looking for it in a hardware store)?
Uhh....it's called a threaded insert. ;)
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Oops >.> Sorry, I have a really bad tendency to overthink things, I thought that was the type it is but not the name. My Logic teacher even told me that I was overthinking Logic itself and needed to think more simply. One final question, how did you make the shroud?
And then another question or two. I was looking over your PVC Sabers once more, you said that an MR board would fit in there, would an economy Hasbro sound card work? If you drill some holes in the pommel end and place the speaker right there on top of the battery chamber that links up to the top LUX I...it should work?
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As long as the Hasbro toy board is less than 1" wide, then yes, it'll fit just fine. I actually built one that used an older Hasbro sound board, but never posted pictures of it. It can be seen on the left in this picutre, though:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F000_0708-1.jpg&hash=d04e32461788739e20c42de984b697fbf8282acd) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0708-1.jpg)
The best way to use a toy board in these is to use one from a toy saber that uses two '"C" batteries, as they can be powered by two "AAA"s as well. If you build a pvc saber in the same style I did here, then a AAA battery holder is pretty much all that will fit inside the pvc. The best soundboard to look for is the one from a 1999 Qui-gon Jnn toy. It's very small and will power a Lux I just fine when used with a micropuck driver.
That particular saber runs a soundboard from a 1995 Darth Vader toy saber. It looked like this:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2F000_0781.jpg&hash=5b062c0fa7e3ada3a3f778ac0802cb1c353ba28c) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/000_0781.jpg)
It's very large compared to some of the other soundboards, and that's why this saber turned out a bit longer than most of the other pvc sabers.
The saber turned out okay:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4570.jpg&hash=b8fc8b0958e60bd6da0a90c0a9ac1d6260e3ca0b) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4570.jpg)
This piece of pvc was flared on the end so it could be glued to another length of tubing if I were using it to run cable as it was intended for. That made attaching a pommel easy:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4571.jpg&hash=6fd947de88c5b263d3268fc15314d437cfb05127) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4571.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4572.jpg&hash=80ce6a7afe6cc6e48b7aa7632f208f30791d8449) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4572.jpg)
I simply drilled some holes in a circular pattern on the end of the endcap to greate speaker vents. Once you remove the retention screw, it slides right out to reveal the speaker and battery holder:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4573.jpg&hash=77543e98c05c6cab26c9f4f49db87d2d20346721) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4573.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4575.jpg&hash=fbb57d90a7bc8fde0dd1254497c5b45bc310e1d8) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4575.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_4574.jpg&hash=965dc37c2e7eca30a25a0a3e4551507d57683b8c) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4574.jpg)
This saber was built just to see if I could do it, so the wiring isn't up to my usual standard. Normally, I'd have hot glued the speaker to the end of the battery holder and used heat shrink tubing to create a wire harness for all of the wires, but I skipped that just to get it working. Here's how it sounds:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2Fth_100_4577.jpg&hash=5a21630e950e5888cd4adfaef9fbdfb3212ca827) (http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/?action=view¤t=100_4577.flv)
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Hi Qui-gon. I know the thread is a bit old, but it seemed the best place to ask. How exactly do you construct the LED holder? I think that's the only part you haven't covered here. I have a few ideas of my own but I'd love to know how you do it.
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Well, it was sort of covered on page 1 when I posted these pictures:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_0798.jpg&hash=5315d75c4df6cc52b5eaf3a860a5d42848355029) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0798.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_0800.jpg&hash=065e3c09e7a059acc518b182262e68a17af837aa) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0800.jpg)
But I'll add this pic too:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi119.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo141%2FJay-gon_Jinn%2FMy%2520pvc%2520sabers%2F100_0801.jpg&hash=a09dd6f0b4441a38f5c5f6d444cf3ea46d7fc85f) (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0801.jpg)
This is the same thing Ultrasabers used to do with their old line of Initiates. The led, a Luxeon I star, is encased inside a 1"-3/4" long piece of 1" diameter polycarbonate tube. This can be cut from the end of the blade stock. I used a tubing cutter to cut it off, and tightened it enough as I was cutting the polycarbonate tubing to ensure I had a rolled edge on one side. That prevents the led from falling through the polycarbonate pice. The lens gets snapped into the holder, and the holder and the led were hot glued in place. Be sure to use high-temp hot glue to do this. The assembly then is held in place between the body of the activation switch and the blade when it's inserted.
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Ah, now I see. Well, actually I saw before, I just didn't realize what I was looking at until you explained it. Makes perfect sense now. Thank you Qui-gon. :)
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Okay, some people have claimed that this isn't really a tutorial, and it technically wasn't intended to be, to be honest....but I recently built one of these and took pictures, tutorial-style so I could post them :wink: So, here we go....here's what you need to start with for a very basic PVC lightsaber:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5782/odHNp3.jpg)
Those are the basic parts I've used in the past....it is built using a 10" long piece of 1" electrical conduit pvc. It's called 1", because it has a 1" inside diameter, which is perfectly suited to the polycarbonate tubes we use to make blades from. The outside diameter is about 1 1/4", and works great for those with smaller hands, like children. (The intended target for these is actually kids.....) I will now detail some of the parts used.
Here's the first piece:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5944/GB7l9Q.jpg)
This is a 1" pvc coupler. It is used to glue to sections of PVC together, but we'll be using it as part of the saber's emitter.
The next piece:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3263/9Eo5ez.jpg)
This is a PVC end cap. This is used to cap off a PVC pipe. I found this one in the pvc plumbing pipe section at my local hardware store. We can use white, because the hilt will get painted later on.
This is the LED I'll be using in these:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1650/2BE2pU.jpg)
Since they are geared toward kids, not adults, and would want to avoid any potential eye damage should the blades get removed, it is a Luxeon I red. See that little white thing next to it? That's the lens and lens holder....it will focus the light from the led up into the blade, causing it to light up. We'll cover that later, though.
Here's the led driver:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9901/bMie8v.jpg)
This is called a Micropuck. similar to a buckpuck, this one is geared towards driving a 350ma led like the Luxeon I led (Rebel and CRee XPE Single stars work great as well). It only requires 3 volts to light the led. This will allow the use of a 2-AAA battery holder to power the led, like this:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9546/0rtDZM.jpg)
Now, if a person wanted to skip the Micropuck, as it adds about $10 to the cost of the saber, one could make the hilt long enough to fit in a 3-AA battery holder and use the appropriate resistor. You'll have to figure that out for yourself, though, since different colors require different resistors. ;) Or, you could use a single Li-Ion rechargeable cell to power the saber as well, in a single AA holder, or make it fully rechargeable with an 18650 rechargeable cell and use appropriate resistors.
The blade retention screw threaded insert:
[sorry, lost the picture of this piece...thanks photobucket! :mad: ]
These are found in the hardware store in the furniture hardware section. It is threaded on the outside like a wood screw, but has internal 8-32 machine screw threads.
The blade retention screw, and #8 lock washer with the threaded insert:
[same as above, no picture]
Not shown individually, but also in the first picture:
-The switch....a simple push button on/off latching switch...which can be found at The Custom Saber shop, along with many of the electronics components...any kind will work, really.
-A piece of 1" polycarbonate tubing...about 3/4" to 1" long cut from the blade stock tubing....this will house the led, lens and lens holder. More on that later. :wink:
There are some tools that will be required to complete this build....a drill (I'll be using a drill press) and a couple of drill bits (3/8", 15/64" and #29), an 8-32 tap and handle, a tubing cutter (large enough to cut 1 1/2" tubing), Hex wrenches (5/32", 5/64", and 3/32"), a soldering iron and solder, a rotary tool with accessories (Dremel or other brand, I have a Craftsman) and a saw of some sort to cut the pvc pipe with, like a hacksaw (I will be using a compound miter saw).
We'll start construction using the rotary tool with an 80 grit sanding drum to remove the divider edge in the middle of the 1" pvc coupler:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9577/WQ1ymb.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/817/3JxTi1.jpg)
Grind it until it's flat, working with the direction the sanding drum is spinning. It should look like this when done:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4558/0wIP5d.jpg)
It will fit on the emitter end of the saber here:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/931/vNRTWU.jpg)
To give it some style, I am going to cut it to match the angle on the main hilt tube:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3113/KO3zDn.jpg)
I set the saw blade to 45degrees:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3182/YBrMZN.jpg)
and cut it:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4483/8VZRji.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4772/7BzXEd.jpg)
That'll work....just need to de-burr it....I used the sanding drum on the rotary tool for that, too.
Moving on....here's the finished coupler:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4483/8VZRji.jpg)
Now, using a second coupler, I hammered the cut coupler onto the hilt tube:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8261/g6gxKF.jpg)
I hammered it down about 3/4":
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4700/sM6glK.jpg)
Here's a preview of the basic hilt shape:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7553/EyIHHd.jpg)
Now, to make it look a bit more like a saber hilt, we'll add some fake grips with the large tubing cutter:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/1792/7OJEeZ.jpg)
Fit it onto the hilt like so:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/7678/PxLmBU.jpg)
Tighten it just enough to have a snug fit, and slowly turn the hilt in the cutter to leave a simple scored line:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8274/ibOqox.jpg)
Using a ruler, I marked out where I wanted the lines to be with a black sharpie marker:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3227/Grjkts.jpg)
And then scored the lines:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/2716/4ciZYC.jpg)
The hilt now has grips:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/853/DqXt7G.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5842/uRDqkM.jpg)
I also laid out some towards the front of the saber, too. The large area in between the marks is where the switch will go.
Now it's time to drill for the threaded insert that will house the blade retention screw:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/924/IKhCW1.jpg)
I set it up in the drill press and used the 15/64th" drill bit to drill a hole for the threaded insert to screw into:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1812/EB8ETI.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/408/FiIC7O.jpg)
I then used the 5/32 hex wrench to install it:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4278/MTPSFR.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7015/Mlf4i0.jpg)
Then I screwed the 8-32 1/2" socket head cap screw into the insert:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1959/1Xxj88.jpg)
When fully tightened, it will keep the blade secure. It reaches just far enough into the blade socket to put pressure on the blade's opposite sidewall and hold it in:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8453/ldW3BH.jpg)
With that, the hilt work is basically complete. Now is the time to paint it if you so desire. There are pictures in the thread already that showed how to do that, you'll have to go back and read that for yourself, though.
Now for the electronics! I'll start by making the 1" x 3/4" polyC led housing:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8452/mmF3IJ.jpg)
Using the tubing cutter, I cut off the piece from the end of the blade that will go into the saber. I made sure to tighten the cutter tight enough to "roll" the edge of the cut to prevent the led from falling through:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3072/YcjKTL.jpg)
Now to solder the wires to the led:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2425/Q1F0aG.jpg)
Make sure you pre-tin the wires first, it makes this much easier. Pre-tinning means getting some solder on the bare wire before you attempt to solder it to the led. The green wire in this case is the negative lead, and the orange is the positive. This matches the outputs of the Micropuck driver.
Now, fit the lens holder over the led like so:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4633/EyhEpI.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5300/Xsf6bu.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1751/krK6uW.jpg)
Then feed the wires through the polyC housing we made earlier:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5144/OjJFry.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/975/6Bbwps.jpg)
Now, to hold it all together, I'll use some high-temp hot glue. This will hold the lens holder inside the polyC housing. High-temp hot glue will not melt with what little heat theses Luxeon I led's give off, and should also hold up with a Luxeon III. If a Luxeon III gets hot enough to melt this glue, something's wrong with your wiring!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7531/dYh1I0.jpg)
We'll put the tip of the glue gun right up to the hole in the led's base:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/3945/MI4mq5.jpg)
Make sure it's full of glue:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7685/axhrXK.jpg)
Now your led assembly is finished:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/7311/QYh4xe.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8092/6aIWY0.jpg)
The polycarbonate housing for the led will also serve as the blade stop for the blade when it's inserted in the hilt. This kills two birds with one stone
-
Now we need to drill the hole for the switch. This will require the 3/8" drill bit mentioned at the start of my last post:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5572/yYgVaU.jpg)
Here's the finished hole, and the switch:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/1286/14TQow.jpg)
This is much easier to do if you use a switch like the one sold in the store at TCSS. The nut is on the OUTSIDE so you can tighten it easier.
I slid the switch up into the saber and using my index finger on my left hand, pushed it up through the hole:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/6347/r0crq2.jpg)
I then installed the nut:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4259/2fw7H3.jpg)
The next thing I'll do is drill and tap for the end cap retention screw. Install the cap on the end of the hilt to ensure your holes will line up. I'll drill this using a simple cordless drill and the #29 bit for 8-32 threads:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3396/c2wAgZ.jpg)
This will give me the right size hole to use an 8-32 tap to make the threads for the retention screw.
I don't like tapping through two separate pieces, and to make the cap easier to put on and remove, I drilled the hole in the cap out with a larger drill bit, an 11/64th";
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4572/QboxiA.jpg)
I than tapped the threads in the hilt using my tap handle and the 8-32 tap:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4096/RX8lkI.jpg)
The pvc cap will fit on like so:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1425/uTMVHH.jpg)
Now I can install the screw:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2704/amvDSg.jpg)
Okay, so NOW all of the hilt work is complete. If you plan to paint the hilt, remove all of the screws, and paint it. I have painted these in the past using Krylon's Fusion Hammered Finish spray paint. It's made for pvc lawn furniture, and works quite well on these hilts:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/4051/s5OmKn.jpg)
I usually hang them up to paint them, and do it in a well-ventilated area, like a garage:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/402/ikXM9A.jpg)
Once the hilt is dry, we can finish off the wiring. This is pretty basic, and will look something like this:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/lWijUh.jpg)
The red and black wires from the battery pack basically get soldered to the red and black wires on the buck puck. Red being positive, black being negative. The switch needs to go in one of those circuits. I chose the positive side of the circuit.
The connections are all soldered:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4271/0jvB0x.jpg)
and then heat shrink wrapped.
To fit this all in the hilt, I needed to bend the wires into this shape, making sure that the switch's flat side is facing towards the emitter. this is because the switch will act as a stop for the led assembly, and when the blade is inserted, will hold the led assembly in place:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8418/Dr1hDb.jpg)
This will get inserted into the hilt through the blade socket, starting with the battery pack:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8620/kL7EtP.jpg)
Holding the switch, I fed the wires in:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/922/uGzDV3.jpg)
This is where it gets a bit tricky....the switch needs to go in so that the button is lined up with the hole we drilled for it earlier, and the back, or flat side is facing the emitter:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6536/9eVg7R.jpg)
Once it's pointing up, push it into the hilt slowly:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/432/HPgmAN.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/513/g3Kj95.jpg)
Until it reaches the hole:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1999/Kt4AtU.jpg)
Now, get a screw driver that is at least 8" long:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5796/41rr0l.jpg)
Pull the battery pack out. Insert the screw driver into the bottom of the saber, going around the battery pack, and push the switch up through the hole:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1286/E0VzJ2.jpg)
Install the switch nut:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9420/PIPfIt.jpg)
Make sure the led is seated inside the blade socket by pushing on it until it stops up against the switch:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5672/FbmH3b.jpg)
Install two AAA batteries, and test it:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3801/SVilfc.jpg)
Install the blade:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/88/WqO6jC.jpg)
(I know, it's not red, it's amber, I changed my mind when I was working on it.....sue me.)
See how I make the blades here: Luxeon type LED Blade Assembly Tutorial- (at least, how I do it!) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=14080.0)
Congratulations! You've taken your first steps into a larger world! Now you can defend the galaxy, or conquer it with your brand new, shiny, pvc saber!
-
:o :o In time....we shall all call you Master.... Wow, that's incredibly helpful...I'll definitely be using this thread for future projects. Thanks QGJ!
-
Fixed the tutorial pics! (Finally! :wink:) Also fixed most of the others, too, but I seem to have deleted some of the others permanently... :cry: