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The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => Plecter Labs => Topic started by: Jyn-Toar on October 21, 2016, 09:41:29 PM
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Hi all! I was wondering if one or two of you fine folks would mind giving my build list a once over. I think I've got everything, but I want to check in to be sure. :smiley: Here's what I have:
LED Tri-Cree RGB
Thermal Tape Pad
1†Heatsink
LED Optic
5mm Accent LED (RGB)
PRIZM v4
20mm Speaker
DynaOhm Resistors (x3)
.47ohm .5watt Resistors (x2 in parallel on blue)
1ohm 2watt Resistor (x1 on red)
18650 3400mAh Li-ion battery 3.7V
Heat shrink
Momentary switches (x2)
Am I missing anything? And will those resistor values work? I was just going to drop the drive to 980 on the green LED and leave the other two at 1023 with the resistors. Thanks in advance! :grin:
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sounds likes a good list !
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Ah awesome! Thank you! If erv himself thinks I'm good there I think I am haha.
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I was just about to ask a question similar to this.
LED Tri-Cree Red-Green-Royal Blue
Thermal Tape Pad
1†Heatsink
5mm Accent LED (RGB)
PRIZM v4
Bass Speaker
18650 3400mAh Li-ion battery 3.7V
Heat shrink
Momentary switches (x2)
My build is a PRIZM w/RGRb, and RGB LED for the crystal chamber. I was looking at the various different resistors that I would need to use and was slightly confused just a little bit by some of what you had mentioned, in particular where you said you were wiring in parallel for the blues...
I guess my main question is do I need a dedicated resistor for every single die? By my thoughts that'd be 6 just for the LEDs and just didnt think I would have the space. Is it possible/recommended to wire the crystal chamber LED to the main LED setup? And the resistors that you have mentioned seem to fit my needs (from what I can tell doing my own ratings...) so would I be able to use those as well?
I apologize, I'm just really new at this and really don't want to screw up...
Thanks so much in advance!!!!
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Most people that I know just wire the accent LED in with the blade LED so the effects of the crystal chamber mirror the blade. Just used a DynaOhm resistor on each lead for the accent LED.
You're best off doing a dedicated resistor for each die just because then you can control the drive to each better. There might be other reasons but that's what I've always thought. Wiring the resistors in parallel on blue will drop the resistance by a factor of one-half, putting the drive to the LED closer to what it should be at. The PRIZM manual has good insight on Ohms Law. :wink:
With that LED setup you could use the same resistors with the same resistors and setup that I laid out. What is the build (what hilt and size)? I would think that there will be at least a little bit of room for resistors.
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It's a graflex 2.0 with a DarthRyo Knight Chassis.
Guess I'm still confused as to what it means to wire in parallel, as related to the blues...but I'm also just wanting to make sure it would be fine anyways as the accent (crystal chamber) is blue, but the main LED is royal blue.
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Okay so wiring in parallel looks like taking the wire from the soundboard LED pad and splitting it into (in this case) two branches for each blue diode, adding a resistor to each branch, and then splicing it back together into one wire to run to the correct LED pad. This is done for each blue diode. If you wire the crystal chamber LED to the main LED then you'll want to wire it in before all the resistors. I'd try to mock up a wiring diagram for you to see.
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Forgive the messy drawing (I couldn't figure out how to do it on my computer).
unnamed-12_zpsc4dubitx.jpg Photo by Isaiah_Scheuer | Photobucket (http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/Isaiah_Scheuer/media/unnamed-12_zpsc4dubitx.jpg.html)
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Dang, I can't view the diagram for some reason..
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Forgive the messy drawing (I couldn't figure out how to do it on my computer).
unnamed-12_zpsc4dubitx.jpg Photo by Isaiah_Scheuer | Photobucket (http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/Isaiah_Scheuer/media/unnamed-12_zpsc4dubitx.jpg.html)
looks good to me !
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I see it now!! Thank you both so very much!! And thank you Erv for your thumbs up. This Is my first build and I'm so very excited, but I don't want to make any mistakes of course.
You guys rule.
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Was reviewing the schematic. So in this case I would use a common anode RGB 5mm LED instead of a common cathode? Also noted there is no resistor for the green die on the Cree?
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Common anode, correct. You'll be wiring the accent LED in with the blade LED (L1, L2, and L3), so you need to match up the positive/negative. Can't wire a common cathode because then you'd be wiring negatives and positives to the same pads which won't work well for you at all. I believe you could do it the other way, but then you would have to switch everything else around as well.
There's no resistor on the green die for the cree because PRIZM has adjustable drive settings, and since the green cree die runs at a voltage that is very close to the forward voltage from a 3.7 V battery, even the smallest resistor TCSS offers will be way more than you need. A simple drop in drive settings will work in the place of a resistor in this case.
Note on resistors, by the way--they can get to be pretty freaking big and may not fit very nicely. I would suggest trying to source from someplace like mouser.com and look for things that aren't massive like the ones I got for a recent stunt build were.
Also notice that the dotted lines indicate a possible way to wire in a recharge port. While a removable cell would work with PRIZM and the board does have a deep sleep mode, it will always be drawing power from the battery. A recharge port is a good way to eliminate idle energy consumption and can be wired and placed into the chassis or in a hole in the hilt itself.
Thank you Erv for verifying the diagram. Apologies Modano for the late response.
Cheers!
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No problem whatsoever. I thank you again so very much for all of your help. I may have forgot to mention it but a recharge port was always in the plans. I'm also using a CF8 Chassis as it fits the PRIZM but also allows for the RICE port and it gives me more room for resistors if I need it. I'm sure it's already gonna be a very tight fit.
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You should have enough room then. If you do get resistors from somewhere other than TCSS be sure to check around and verify that you are getting the right type; I believe the ones TCSS offers are simple ceramic, but I'm not entirely sure. If you don't have room you can always ask about alternative smaller resistors, or you could use less. Using one resistor on the blue instead of two in parallel, for example, would still allow plenty of voltage to reach the LED.
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I know this is an old thread but it pretty much provides a representation of what im talking about. This is pretty much what i am going to be installing but i was told i cannot use the dynaohm resistors on negative leads for the accents- however erv noted the sketch was correct; so now im not sure at all if that will work, please reply and thank you :azn:
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I'm going to be honest I've never used those dyna ohm resistors. Have you been explained why they wouldn't work?
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Erv! Thank you so much for seeing this !
Love your detailed manuals. From what i understand they may be polarized, the description on tcss as well as a response from a tcss moderator on an older thread says to place on the positive lead , while the actual resistor is marked “in” and “out” on one side or the other. I already ordered 3 dyna and a common anode accent crystal :lipsrsealed:(https://i.ibb.co/FW9zpq5/2-D54-DCAE-80-CD-47-C4-92-B2-77-C9-A2-B8-AE9-A.png) (https://ibb.co/FW9zpq5)
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What I meant was that the resistor has to be installed a certain way ((+) goes on a specific side (-) on the other) from all that I have seen. I normally DO NOT use them myself.
(https://i.ibb.co/nwhYc1v/4-E6477-F4-ABA9-4-ECA-AC28-AB855256602-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CwxY79Z)
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Is that you forgetful? Lol. Ive got the standard resistors ordered now, they didn’t respond to me in time so ill have to pay shipping on 3 resistors :embarrassed: