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Author Topic: Cristar's V2  (Read 3689 times)

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Offline Cristar Attevan

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Cristar's V2
« on: May 30, 2008, 09:09:45 PM »
     Hey, guys... Okay, so since everyone else and his protocol droids are doing a V2, so I figured it's my turn too.  I didn't make it particular screen-accurate or anything, but rather just took features that I liked from the various V2 reference sources and integrated them into my version.

(Click a pic for a larger version)
I of course started with an MR Luke RotJ, and used the TCSS conversion kit with extended emitter.


I noticed in some of the V2 photos (the MR product shots, I believe) that there were some sort of divots or pins or set screws in the sink drain emitter section and in the larger ring further down the neck.  So for purely ornamental purposes, I used set screws to mimic those.  One of the set screws is not ornamental, however, and serves as the blade retention screw.


Here you can see the weathered black paint.  I wanted to make sure that the black flowed into the extended part of the emitter, as to make the piece look like a contiguous whole.  I also thought that the clamp needed to be weathered a bit, even though most V2s I see tend to have a relatively shiny and clean clamp.  You can also see the switch on this side of the clamp, which is just the stock black switch cover from the RotJ, but cut down to about 1/3 the thickness-- which keeps it much closer to the clamp, and helps prevent accidental turn-ons and -offs.


For the circuit board, instead of the stock board that came with the ESB, I wanted to try something a bit different.  In the end, I wound up using part of an old Nintendo (NES) game.  (Q*bert, if you're interested! ;) )  It fit very nicely once trimmed down, and with a bit of paint I was even able to get more of the black-and-gold color of the RotJ-style board.


And finally, the illuminated saber-- Lux III green.


     Like so many of you guys, I always loved the V2, and it's been one of my favorite saber projects so far.  It was really fun to do all the weathering and distressing.  Everyone has his or her own technique for this part of it, which I think is what makes these sabers all the more interesting to look at and talk about.

     Well, thanks as always for looking!  Enjoy!
« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 09:11:25 PM by Cristar Attevan »









Offline HAN SOLO

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2008, 09:54:28 PM »
Wow. Nice work, Cristar! I have to ask two things, if I may.....

1. The D-Ring, where did you snag it?

2. How difficult was it to drill the holes for the D-Ring?

Thanks. And beautiful work!
« Last Edit: August 07, 2008, 09:12:15 PM by HAN SOLO »


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Offline darthmorbius

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2008, 10:03:13 PM »
The holes for the Di ring are already there Han. ;)  Just pull the Tri ring off the pommel.

Cristar, where is your switch located?

Offline HAN SOLO

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2008, 10:14:13 PM »
The holes for the Di ring are already there Han. ;)  Just pull the Tri ring off the pommel.

Cristar, where is your switch located?

D'oh! I was thinking for my "secret" project I've shown you. :o

Ooopsie! :-[


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Offline Cristar Attevan

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2008, 10:27:09 PM »
     Han, the D-ring is actually just from Wal-Mart, in the fabric/sewing section.  You can get a pack of 2 or 3 for a buck or two.  That particular one isn't as shiny chrome as some others, so that helped make it fit better with the weathered look of the saber.

     And DT is of course right about the holes from the stock triangle ring.  However, I drilled a hole in the opposite side so that when the hilt hangs, the activation box faces out.  It's much more interesting to look at than the back of the Graflex clamp!  To drill it isn't too tough; you just have to make sure that the pommel is perfectly aligned to the drill bit.  What helps is to grind out a bit of a divot with a Dremel first, so the drill bit doesn't walk.  Getting it started is the hardest part!

     DT, the switch is on the side of the activation box (the opposite side of the lever).  I used a cut-down version of the stock switch cover and painted it weathered silver to (at least somewhat) match the silver of the activation box.









Offline vortextwist

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2008, 02:09:16 AM »
Very nice man!

Offline robiwan

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2008, 08:46:05 AM »
Very nice V2 you have there! Welcome to the world of V2 owners. I am glad our numbers are growing! Mwhhaa-haha! Seriously though, I see you have put a lot of love into your V2 and it shows. Very nice build. Congrats.
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Offline Cristar Attevan

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Re: Cristar's V2
« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2008, 09:28:52 AM »
     Thanks for the compliments, guys!

     Yeah, it really was a great project to work on, Owen.  Glad to be a part of the V2 community! ;) As I said, I think it's interesting to look at everyone's and compare and contrast the different takes on this saber.  And I had particular fun when thinking up the actual paint scheme for the weathering and so forth.  For example, on the neck area, I used a combination of glossy and matte paint, while in between the ribs, I used only matte.  And on the emitter, I used matte and applied it in a completely different way (just dry-brushing it on), so it looks a bit more like scorching as opposed to the chipped-off paint look the rest of the body has.  It was working out the little things like that which made it great.

     I also found that if you lightly sand the chromed plastic pieces that come with the Luke ESB clamp (the two side pieces and the lever), you can get them to look significantly less plastic-like.  I don't know if it shows too well in the pics, but I discovered that as I knocked down that chrome just a bit, a little of the different layers of the chrome started to show through (along with the black plastic underneath), and it actually gave it a somewhat brownish, tarnished look!  So much more realistic than shiny chromed plastic.  (Again, it's a bit tough to really see it in the pics, but you can sorta notice it on the next-to-last photo (the pommel end).  The lever on the clamp is a bit yellowed and tarnished looking.)

     In any case, thanks again guys.  In fact, I have everyone who has a V2 up here to thank... you were all a bit of inspiration!









 

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