FX-Sabers.com
FX-Sabers Discussion - Including a Gallery of custom sabers. => Saber Modifications & Customs => Topic started by: Master Jedye on September 16, 2009, 05:47:39 PM
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Ok…this is a topic dedicated to dremel (or your favorite brand of rotary tool) usage, best practices and safety. I've noticed a lot of new people asking about tools and techniques. Well, here's a start. Keep in mind that every one has their own way of doing things. No one is right or wrong, it's just preference.
I certainly hope this helps some of our newer folks who are interested in making sabers.
I'll have to post this in sections and will add to it as I document different techniques. Grab a cup of coffee... you're in for a read. ;)
Ok…Let’s get started.
First, SAFETY!
Before you buy and operate your dremel, make sure you have purchased all the necessary safety items.
1. Safety Goggles: Dust and particles are a byproduct of cutting out the metal in a sink tube…it is IMPERATIVE to have proper eye protection. To date, no successful “eye-transplant” has every taken place and you only have two of them! Wear your goggles. If the finest piece of dust can cause a corneal abrasion, imagine what a sharp chunk of brass sink tube would do. Additionally, it’s not just the byproduct you need to worry about…I’ve had cutting disk crack and shoot across the room and have even had an extension wand explode.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_SG.jpg&hash=30fc465a1b15abcfe48f31c0fb8125ccc7eb7884) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=SG.jpg)
2. Face mask: I like using some sort of mask so I’m not inhaling the dust created by cutting or sanding a sink tube. I don’t have statistics, but I’m pretty sure brass dust was not meant to be inhaled.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FM.jpg&hash=b5796b4d2650f18296b1c50b204b8845ae65c50c) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FM.jpg)
3. Face Shield: Overboard on the PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)? Maybe, but have you ever been hit in the neck with a tiny hot shard of metal? This will prevent that from happening. THIS IS NOT….I repeat, NOT AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE SAFETY GOGGLES.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FS.jpg&hash=aa5b68aaf8050d15a2a7d83c871e98afe052a0fc) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FS.jpg)
4. THICK gloves: I use weilding gloves that I buy at Homedepot. I'm not a big fan of clamping down a sinktube in a vise, becuase I moved the sink tube as much as I move the dremel while cutting. A sink tube can get very hot while under the pressure of a blade. Also, you'll have a nice layer of protection in case the dremel slips.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.made-in-china.com%2Fimage%2F2f0j00dCZEweitfaWBM%2FWelding-Glove-WG110-.jpg&hash=86f553fdcb917990cc8b3fe9be51bb721e49d32d)
I have all three items stated above, plus gloves because I don’t like using a clamp to hold the sink tube so it does get hot.
Here’s my PPE!
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_DSCF0057.jpg&hash=feae6038fa0703c1a8ab6f9b0818a03fb6b7220f) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=DSCF0057.jpg)
Any questions so far…pretty basic stuff right? Ok, so let’s move on to equipment.
EQUIPMENT:
Your tool of choice will vary. I like to use a corded multi-speed rotary tool with a flex shaft. The shaft will allow you to hold the tool more like a pencil, allowing for more familiar (if not better) control. Yes…cordless dremels are made but they just don’t have the power or endurance and the good ole’ corded ones. Multi-speed….not every job requires your cutting wheel to have a million RPMs. Whether it’s a Dremel brand or Black and Decker…either are great and the choice is yours.
Personally, I like this one:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_BD.jpg&hash=24bf849ee1e37b0b44393f38bf896b981bb9fb33) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=BD.jpg)
Yes…it’s a Black and Decker. But it has all the features I’ve described above and will fit all the Dremel Brand attachments.
Next is a Flex shaft….as stated above, this tool gives you more control and will greatly improve your “dremel-fu”.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FSp.jpg&hash=511dbdbac78a426668bbbe98bf591dfed1ad0778) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FSp.jpg)
This is the 400 series and it has all the features I’ve described above. You can also purchase a kit that comes with the flex shaft (as shown).
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_Dremel.jpg&hash=e82ba32e68935a4af0d7de51a70ca101c3ae9d8c) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=Dremel.jpg)
Next up, a dremel station. By far, one of the best investments I’ve purchased for my tool. It will hold your dremel and convert it to a drill press (for small jobs). We’ve actually got one dremel in the press and one on the holder with the flex shaft attached. Having two means that I can go from drill press to cutting or sanding without changing shafts.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_dremel_workstation.jpg&hash=15c709faabcd2b8954249b07ca9aca2143f461d0) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=dremel_workstation.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_DSCF0056.jpg&hash=fd1ee5755399450f7a18d387759b6f659eeaa3dd) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=DSCF0056.jpg)
The other essential item to buy is an accessory kit. If you’re just starting out…get a small one. You probably don’t NEED all the stuff in the larger kits. The smaller ones will have your basics: This kit contains:
• •Reusable storage box
•400 Series XPR storage case compatible
•Removable organizer tray
Sanding/ Grinding Accessory Kit 686-01 Includes:
•1 - 426 1-1/4" Fiberglass-Reinforced Cut-Off Wheel
•1 - 85422 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone
•15 - 412 Medium Sanding Disc
•1 - 402 Mandrel
•1 - 407 1/2" Drum Sander
•4 - 408 1/2" Coarse Sanding Band
•4 - 432 1/2" Fine Sanding Band
•1 - 932 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone
•1 - 8193 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone
•1 - 511 Abrasive Buffs
•1 - 84922 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_DremAcc.jpg&hash=dd2ab161c41ceaad17b9f7f941eb40f1ea626bcd) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=DremAcc.jpg)
You will probably need to buy more cutting and sanding wheels as time goes on.
Along with your power tools, you'll also want a few small hand files. These will help sand down edges that may be to small or tight to get the dremel into.
That’s about it on the equipment. Next up…Best Practices
Best Practices:
Well, as promised, here's my brief tutorial on cutting a sink tube.
First thing I do is make sure I've got a good design on graft paper. You want your design to be as accruate as possible cause those are the lines you'll be cutting.
Now, I've tried to secure the paper to the sink tube with all sorts of clear tape before. If you use tape, use a paper tape...like painters tape or masking tape. Myself, I don't use tape....I glue the graph paper to the sink tube using a stick of glue.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0023.jpg&hash=0929dae797acbd084597f081666c84ba096861e6) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0023.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0025.jpg&hash=ddd5cedfac557d1be6fac37bfc886da9903455d6) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0025.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0015-1.jpg&hash=953c743940510d8cbaa1fb0176227361e1575d7c) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0015-1.jpg)
Liberally apply it and start putting it on your saber. Make sure no trash gets between the paper and the sinktube and make sure you're are putting it on straight.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0027.jpg&hash=7c69a55fd599ec5d07bb2c3b4d49f66f76b056b6) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0027.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_untitled.jpg&hash=1e3f45f2b0e0bac485dbb582050a6663ff8bcad6) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=untitled.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0028.jpg&hash=823657483a0ca0b00304f4687b5d9fb94582b5ba) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0028.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0016-1.jpg&hash=aab9b0530e692d15262b7eab8f4396eb407778e3) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0016-1.jpg)
Your graph paper lines should line up and there should be no creases or airbubbles in the paper. If you don't get it right the first time, simply peel it off and try again...it'll take a few minutes before that glue dries.
Once it's on, let it dry for a few minutes....test it out...try to move the paper around....it shouldn't budge. If it does....let it set for a while longer.
Next, I mount on a new cutting wheel. I have also saved a few older, smaller ones and I'll show you why in just a minute.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0030.jpg&hash=8c3c810fe5c90dbd71113658a0376852bef01558) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0030.jpg)
I use a heavy duty wheel. They make stronger ones....called reinforced wheels, but I like the HD ones because they're thinner and when you're making small cuts, thin is better.
Next, I put the wheel to the steel (or the brass ;D ). I follow my lines pretty closely but usually just outside the line. You can always take more brass off later....but you can NEVER put it back on. So it's better to come back after with a sanding drum or hand files to finish the job. (Another tutorial....another time)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0031.jpg&hash=95402bce2e5e21b6219802b1050676eb33796f57) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0031.jpg)
Now...why do I save used wheels? Because they're smaller and I can use those to get into tight space. Like here...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0033.jpg&hash=7b8527fc0f883878e1eb8fe9b8591c26186e35a2) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0033.jpg)
Ok, for me, I've found it's better not to chop up the sinktube...meaning, once the wheel is in....follow the line all the way to the end. Try not to pull it out and start cutting from a different direction or anything...it'll just make more work for you later when you try to even out those lines.
Trim of any excess you may have...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0019.jpg&hash=45d802706aef38c9f860f7f373af543b9a847ba5) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0019.jpg)
Once you're done, you should have something like this....
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0035.jpg&hash=dbd7a2664f5167a94763b2dbe42c5b1a59e08af2) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0035.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0034.jpg&hash=75f72cba91c95e171720c48c620a3eca00a0bd5d) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0034.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi426.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp344%2Fcallais74%2FDremel%2520and%2520Safety%2Fth_FILE0020.jpg&hash=a926c8a1e063372f87476aefe4b3541030a769fd) (http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/callais74/Dremel%20and%20Safety/?action=view¤t=FILE0020.jpg)
Next, soak that sink tube in some water to take off the glue and you're good to go. Next up....sanding down those nasty edges with a a sanding drum, flap wheels and hand files.
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Here is a quick overview of drum sanders and flap wheels.
FINISHING
So you just finished cutting your sinktube... see all those rough edges? Let's get rid of them. ;)
This is what I refer to as "finishing". No one wants sharp edges on their saber. They're uncomfortable and dangerous. This is where drum sanders and flap wheels come into play.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding003.jpg&hash=47f1d6c4dd88814a82e95147807b4c1dbb686ff2) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding003.jpg)
These are only a few of the various types of sanding tools available to you for use with a rotary tool.
Drum sanders come in various grits and a few different sizes. I usually start with these.
Here's an example of an "unfinished" sinktube. Note the jagged edges and the uneveness of the cuts. This will be more prevalent when cuting curves.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding004.jpg&hash=df0959961c519c099a18ad193d9fcec362c4363b) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding004.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding005.jpg&hash=ffb4c20cd392b5e34f65704879a89b35c8e46b6b) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding005.jpg)
I'm going to tackle this by using three different sanders. First, I'll use a 40 grit drum. This one will remove alot of those shards of brass that I want gone. I'm also going to have my rotary tool set to a medium-high level. I'll make a few quick and LIGHT (not much pressure) passes over the edge of the peice. This process is quick and I don't spend a lot of time on it. I just want the bigger peices removed so I can use another sander to "sculpt". Here's the drum I use for this.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding006.jpg&hash=d35fa8039901c63c782ac5626094ae2853778f42) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding006.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding008.jpg&hash=79bb3e867408c51483b8e5014698dda0952cac8d) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding008.jpg)
Once that's done, I change the drum to a 100 grit so I can start to define the lines. Everyone does this differently. Some people clamp down the peice and work the dremel around it. I hold the peice... this allows me to not only move the dremel, but move the shoud also.
With this... you are only removing millimeters of brass. I also lower my rotary tool's speed setting... usually to low-medium. This is where the final shape will emerge. Take your time. Remember... you're SCULPTING. In some areas that are tight, I might just use the tip of the drum... for broader areas or straight lines, I'll use the whole drum...running it parralel with the line.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding012.jpg&hash=6e2315bfbc0bf5f2cd608011a50c47f68261d3dc) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding012.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding013.jpg&hash=49945e008bdbe49a9c5f02ce255fa22be704f90b) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding013.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding014.jpg&hash=f02a6022d7580a152872def06f2d9cde656aabd3) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding014.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding017.jpg&hash=da5049823c951cd7fee4a03e7e2ee2adaae95cd6) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding017.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding018.jpg&hash=7ab72ace0060fe35d5fcce2794230f98623f9f14) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding018.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding009.jpg&hash=5bee8d87daeb65af48961ec063acfee0d173f133) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding009.jpg)
So now... I have straight lines, no burrs and a nice clean look. But I'm not quite done. The edges are still sharp.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding019.jpg&hash=59176a9fdf2300ddd97177b6f93c6362ae36ca4c) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding019.jpg)
This is where the flap wheels come in handy. Basiclly, a flap wheel has tiny sheets of sandpaper teathered to a center wheel. This lessens the amount of resistance against the metal and helps to soften those edges.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding020.jpg&hash=f892db52e439f1ed0ac5c03a165cdf82c042df98) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding020.jpg)
I use the same process as I stated above, moving the rotary tool and the shroud. I follow the lines on the sinktube, first at a 90 degree angle to the cuts and then at 45 degrees on both sides of the line. Careful not to take off too much chrome on the outside. This rounds out those sharp edges.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding021.jpg&hash=48a6e2358f9995a8302a30a685882c9156b604d1) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding021.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding022.jpg&hash=a5e69f72beddb6968acf8abe2543e92755469c46) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding022.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding024.jpg&hash=7a0dd11c214e470ac5262fec1f0cb909c38c223f) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding024.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding025.jpg&hash=a66082ac5edf3c09a0128f7947776d70cbefb038) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding025.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding026.jpg&hash=02625c3aff9b93b601620300efbd788f9a68aff1) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding026.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding026.jpg&hash=02625c3aff9b93b601620300efbd788f9a68aff1) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding026.jpg)
The finished product:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding027.jpg&hash=70f45a357bbeefc478f4a5a8d94d9b97d5e9ec71) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding027.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding028.jpg&hash=57ef50bb26020bca16f4c664d0d04bac59cd388c) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding028.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding029.jpg&hash=8d6d54c85579e7978940ee56da81cd646a8e227d) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding029.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding030.jpg&hash=856e1c28e7ec14d337bc429ba4c6f4b2f87a9b8e) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding030.jpg)
All edges are even and rounded. No one is getting their finger sliced on this shroud. ;)
EDIT:
One more thing... invest in a good set of hand files. These are essential, especially when trying to even-out a striaght line or for getting inbetween spaces that a dremel won't fit.
For instance, this saber needed nice, smooth lines... and obviously a dremel will not fit inbetween those lines on the body of this hilt. This was all filed by hand. Yeah... it took a while, but worth it.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi528.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd328%2Fdarth_call%2FThe%2520Fluent%2Fth_Fluent1.jpg&hash=62da180c71fd0d0fdd7359737938c9a223520231) (http://s528.photobucket.com/albums/dd328/darth_call/The%20Fluent/?action=view¤t=Fluent1.jpg)
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Sanding Down a Sinktube
I have no luck with Gold transparent powdercoating so I am still forced to sand down sinktubes. The first one I ever did, my first saber actually....was sanded down by hand. It took all day.
Then I saw Jay-Gon using brass polished sinktubes....but they were $30.
The sinktubes I use are from Ace Hardware. In the store, they cost about $9.00....online, they're about $4.00. Doing so many brass shrouded sabers, we had to come up with an easier way to sand it down....so here's a video of how we do it.
If you have a better way, please let me know.
All you need is a drill, a 5/8 compression stop plug, a heavy (thick) glove and sandpaper (80 grit to 1500 grit). For the final "polishing", I use the same technique but with 0000 steel wool and Brasso or Flitz metal polish
The results....a smooth, gold sinktube!
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_FILE0001.jpg&hash=ae12b271d9cc5da12e1b653f3c00eeff3d737027) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=FILE0001.mp4)
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awesome tutorial Casey! 8) very helpful! your definatly very deserving of the title master ;)
MTFBWY
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This is great, thank you for doing this!
Had no idea about the dremel station, sweet... ;D
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Thank you.
It's an open topic, so if you have a questions, feel free to ask.
Or if you have some tips you'd like to share with us, please post them! ;)
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Good tutorial and tips. This is relevant to my interests ;D
Here's a couple more:
1. Respiratory protection IS important when working with a Dremel. Especially with brass. Brass is an amalgam of Copper, Zinc, Lead and Tin. Lead is a cumulative poison, and you don't want to be breathing that stuff. If you are only cutting brass once in a great while, a good quality dust mask might serve your needs. For full-fledged sabersmiths, I would recommend at least a half-face respirator with HEPA cartridges (magenta in color).
2. You'll have more control over your cuts if you cut towards yourself. It eats the cutting discs much faster, but you have better control. You also get more dust thrown at you, so heed the previous note about respiratory protection, and the other tips about safety glasses or goggles.
3. Never, never, never try to cut curves with your Dremel. Only straight lines. You can take a series of small straight cuts to get the basic shaped roughed out, and then clean up the cuts with a sanding drum, or if you're really good, you can use the edge of the cutting wheel like a tiny grinder.
4. High speeds for cutting, slower speeds for sanding. Let the tool do the work for you. If you have to force the tool through the work, you don't have enough speed. A Dremel should be able to cut a 20/22 gauge sinktube like butter.
5. Be careful about what you ask the tool to do. I recently cut 0.058" wall aluminum tubing with the Dremel for my Starkillers, and that was at the upper limit of what I would ask the tool to do. Brass or stainless steel that thick is too much, and should be cut with professional tools. A Dremel is a small tool for small jobs.
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Lots of great points from JudgeSaberSmith and I agree with all of them, especially the mask part.
I'll also add that if you're using a filtered mask, make sure you change the cartridges reguarly and LEAVE the mask on while you're cleaning up. There's no sence in wearing it during cutting, taking it off... them sweeping the brass dust off your work area. It's still in the air and perhaps even more so. Keep it on till you've swept out your area.
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A great tutorial from a true Master of Dremel-Fu...especially helpful for those of us dremel-fu-challenged like me...thank you MJ.
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When i saw this i was so i nearly knocked the laptop off the table... you have no idea how helpful this was ....whats 0.058" in mm
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When i saw this i was so i nearly knocked the laptop off the table... you have no idea how helpful this was ....whats 0.058" in mm
1.47mm
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my god i'm amazed it cut through that ... must be a good one
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my god i'm amazed it cut through that ... must be a good one
As he said, that's the upper limits of what a dremel can do.
I've cut through MHS peices before with a re-enforced wheel... that's about as much as I care to handle with my RTX and shaft....and I wouldn't recommend doing that for a long period of time.
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Topic updated with "FINISHING--- using your drum sanders and flap wheels" in reply #1.
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Honing out a Bladeholder
GAH! This used to be such a pain for me. Our first few sabers, we didn't hone out bladeholders. We sanded down our blades. The problem with this is then ONLY that blade can be used with that saber. Not a good option. The better option is to hone out the blade holder.
So let's go back to flap wheels. Again, everyone has a different method for this. I'll show you how to do it with a dremel. 8)
I recommend purchasing a few of these...
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/dremel-sanding-flap-wheel/XWT3-15240
(side note: www.widgetsupply.com is a great resource for all rotary tool accessories. They are less expensive then Home Depot, ship with in a few days and they accept Paypal.)
They cost about $2.30 a peice and one will hone out 3 or 4 bladeholders.
Attach the above linked flap wheel to your dremel...
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding033.jpg&hash=42478bebbee65405906acd1e8050e4ca58b05767) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding033.jpg)
then clamp down your bladeholder.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding031.jpg&hash=761236a7d946d3664d2701fba48cfa457db5e252) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding031.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding032.jpg&hash=9e1005881c0cbdd32876d3222b2500e480ecab2a) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding032.jpg)
For the purpose of this tutorial... I'll wrap the BH in a cloth and use a welding glove to hold it. WARNING: YOUR BLADEHOLDER IS ABOUT TO GET FREAKIN' HOT!!!!!! If you're using the clamp... give it a few minutes before you try to touch it. Also, do this BEFORE you powdercoat your BH. The bladeholder will get so hot, your PC will start to bubble.... I know... I've seen it happen. ;)
Turn your rotary tool to a medium high speed setting and them insert into the Bladeholder.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding035.jpg&hash=67eeaa2e3469a224282ca822617c6136bac777b0) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding035.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding036.jpg&hash=25cb32eee9bafece0922f5efb6b846d607ecc2cd) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding036.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding037.jpg&hash=7db9afbb915bf4f27cce524bd3f65282575f7929) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding037.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding039.jpg&hash=95c9c81b0fae201914d6f2328d592385324099dc) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding039.jpg)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FMisc%2FSanding%2520tutorial%2Fth_Sanding041.jpg&hash=a7f0c0b0c9ee9b1e2613ce59be461c1128567d15) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Misc/Sanding%20tutorial/?action=view¤t=Sanding041.jpg)
Apply pressure to the walls of the interior and move it in and out. Let the BH cool off and then test fit a poly-c blade in it. LET THE BH COOL OFF first.... again... it's hot.. and could melt the walls of the poly c tube.
If you're powdercoating, do this again very quickly after you've PC'd the bladeholder. Your goal with that is just to remove the overspray that went inside the BH. Don't apply much pressure, let the rotary tool do the work for you. It should only take a few quick "hits" to remove the overspray.
I think that's all I've got for Dremel tutorials.
I hope this serves you well. Thank you for reading. If you have any questions or tips, feel free to post them. ;)
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Sweet Casey! I rely mostly off of my Dremel, so these are incredibly helpful! Could you include some Dremel tips for working with MR/Hasbro FX sabers to convert them? I understand that some take certain Dremel work. Thanks so much man, these are great!
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The only one that I'm aware of is the Yoda... a pin needs to be drilled out. Unless there's another way to do them that I'm not familiar with.
Thanks for the comments, though. ;)
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Awesome tutorial Master Jedye. I wish I could have read this a year ago when I first started making sabers, it sure would have saved me a lot of sink tubes. lol
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Awesome tutorial Master Jedye. I wish I could have read this a year ago when I first started making sabers, it sure would have saved me a lot of sink tubes. lol
Thank you.
You and me both! I wish I knew all this stuff a year ago. In fact, this time last year... I didn't even know there was such a thing as "custom sabers" :D
Many Sinktubes died to bring us this information.
I should make mention that I learned most of this by watching QUI-GON's build logs and then later, brainstorming with him and a few others. (shout out 8) )
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THANKS AGAIN
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THANKS AGAIN
You're welcome!
I might try to do the same tutorial format for Powder coating.....mainly tips and best practices. I just need to test out a few techniques first. Like dremeling... there are hundreds of ways to PC something. Unlike dremeling... the guns vary greatly... so I'm not sure if it would be beneficial. What do you all think?
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I would appreciate a powdercoating tutorial on the basic, common techniques with the common guns. It could definitely be beneficial for the future.
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I'll probably do this then... keeping the information geared toward prep work, safety and care. ;)
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Master Jedye. Thank you so much for your beginner's tutorials. I was 3 minutes ago, on my porch sanding a sink tube so it would look 'goldish', per your tutorial. I was so pleased when I viewed your tutorials last night, thank you again. Oh yeah, my drill decided it didn't want to work so I am hand sanding this one ;D
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Hi Master Jedye I have a little prob with a saber I have been modifing, it's a burring prob and I can't seem to find anything on this thread to help me as I was told I could use my Dremmel/rotoray tool to get rid of it but first to check out this thread here,s a pic of my prob
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Fsabermods1-1.jpg&hash=b673db57511f32e6c165687145fced9bf294a78e) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/sabermods1-1.jpg)
can you help me?
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Ahh, now I see the picture, now I know! ;D Probably a small handfile would work is my guess, but I'm sure MJ will take care of you :).
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Durangus is correct.
This looks like a good job for some tiny hand files.
(https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/bb/bb7d56f8-a7ae-4457-92dd-301315afdb11_300.jpg)
Sit down with it... and lightly file down those edges while you're watching "It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown". ;D It takes time and patience.
Hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else and good luck!
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thanks guys you have been most helpful ;D
Brilliant thread btw it has been most helpful to me
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thanks guys you have been most helpful ;D
Brilliant thread btw it has been most helpful to me
You're welcome. BTW... if you don't have a set of metal hand-files readily available... you can use a disposable fingernail file... it will take longer... but that maybe the "finer" detail you're looking for.
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YES MJ ... this is my favourite thread ever ... before this I was going to use a die grinder LOL .. PS sorry about PC incident
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thanks guys you have been most helpful ;D
Brilliant thread btw it has been most helpful to me
You're welcome. BTW... if you don't have a set of metal hand-files readily available... you can use a disposable fingernail file... it will take longer... but that maybe the "finer" detail you're looking for.
I think that I will wait and get some metal hand-files as I think my wife would worry about me if she cought me going through her makeup bag for Disposable fingernail files LOL ;D
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And after the metal file(s) wears out, you can make a knife out of it/them. ;) ;)
MJ, if you have it, could you possibly make a video of the best way to clean off the metal burrs form a sinktube/other piece of metal without scratching up the surface? Or if no video, perhaps a little advice?
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True :D
I've got a metal fingernail that I stole acquired from my wife... it works pretty good for smaller spaces. If those lines you dremeled (which are very nice, BTW ;) ) are only a dremel wheel wide, then even metal files won't fit between them. That's where the fingernail file comes in.
(https://www.trendyprincess.com/photogallery/FILES%20PEARL%20HANDLES.jpg)
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And after the metal file(s) wears out, you can make a knife out of it/them. ;) ;)
MJ, if you have it, could you possibly make a video of the best way to clean off the metal burrs form a sinktube/other piece of metal without scratching up the surface? Or if no video, perhaps a little advice?
If it's on the edge of the sink tube, I would use a sanding drum (100 grit). This is part of that "finishing" that I talked about earlier.
If it's a line in the sinktube, like Kel has...or at a curve or an angle, then the best option is still handfiles or fingernail files. Really, with ALMOST every shroud, there is some area that my drum won't reach.. .so I need to take out the handfiles. I may not have put enough emphasise on these in the original tutorial...but these are as essential to me as the Dremel. On my bench, they are always in reach and I have several sets with lots of different shapes, sizes and grits.
Either way... hit the metal under a 90 degree angle... but not quite 45. With both options, let the file or the drum do the work... don't apply a whole bunch of pressure. You'd be surprised how much metal a hand file can take off.
If that's not clear, I'll take pictures. Let me know. ;)
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Thank's MJ. I was wondering in specific abotu the sinktube edges. Thank's a load!
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Thank's MJ. I was wondering in specific abotu the sinktube edges. Thank's a load!
Good.
I may still post pictures... cause that's how I roll. :D
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I just had a thought that I may not be using the correct type of disc for cutting with my rotoray tool the packet says that they are for slicing and cutting metal, wood and plastic but I seem to go through them quite quickly but not get that far when cutting not sure if that is normal or not, or maybe it's due to my cheapy rotoray tool?
Any way here are some pics of the disks maybe you can tell from looking at them if they are right or not
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Fdremeldisk1.jpg&hash=a532409c27c8dc1fe8b54a8d23920d5dd39a94f4) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/dremeldisk1.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Fdremeldisk2.jpg&hash=1cbaaaf52c537e6e7c4a463f992edcb889456717) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/dremeldisk2.jpg)
Edited, possibly the funniest unintentional misspelling I have ever seen, ....Chewbacca
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Umm.. Kel, I think you meant discs... :D :D :D Ooooff... ;D ;D :o
MJ, pics would be more than great! They'd be superb. ;) 8) 8)
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Those are re-enforced wheels and should be slicing though your sinktubes like butter. I actually use Heavy Duty wheels (which are not as tough as what you're using). I used them because they are thinner and I'm able to "sculpt" a little better with them.
If you're burning through them, you might be forcing the wheel too much and going to fast. Perhaps slow down a little.
What rotary tool are you using, if I may ask?
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Those are re-enforced wheels and should be slicing though your sinktubes like butter. I actually use Heavy Duty wheels (which are not as tough as what you're using). I used them because they are thinner and I'm able to "sculpt" a little better with them.
If you're burning through them, you might be forcing the wheel too much and going to fast. Perhaps slow down a little.
What rotary tool are you using, if I may ask?
It has no make on it, it was a £5 one that I bought on Evil-bay as I could not afford a proper dremel but here is a pic of it if that helps
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Frotarytool.jpg&hash=92e3369f4d0d54d981ae6da24ffc8b37581a9d28) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/rotarytool.jpg) (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi841.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz331%2Fkel-qui%2Frotarytool-1.jpg&hash=76f107159f7a893f1a192b84768deb7880cb9b98) (http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz331/kel-qui/rotarytool-1.jpg)
Now that you mention it I may be applying to much pressure as I am in a rush as I don't get long to work on it before I have to go to work :D
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I would suspect that if the RPM's are the same as a Dremel or Black and Decker... then the cutting quality will also be the same. RPM's are RPM's are RPM's. The difference will be the lag you encounter... and how well the bearings hold up to that lag. Your rotary tool may be prone to burning up quicker than say a Dremel Brand. I'm just speculating though.
Also, those burrs you have... are also pretty indicative of forcing your dremel... going to fast. Overall, I'd say slow down. I know you don't have much time... but it takes LESS time to do it right, then to do it TWICE. ;)
Here's a video... sorry for the poor quality, I did it pretty quickly so I could show you something.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0001.jpg&hash=6a5745453ee6a6e0d5fb8dfbe621258b4f004c79) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0001.mp4)
Basicly, the point here is to file lightly and evenly. Make sure your file has as much contact with the sinktube as possible... so what you do to one side, will also even out the other side. This is another trick I learned from QUI-GON JINN. I hope this helps.
Caden, I'll do a sanding video later (maybe this weekend)
Frodo, I haven't forgotten about you either. ;)
EDIT: Number one way to "anger" the wife... file a sinktube on the marble-topped dining room table. If anyone needs me, I'll be asleep ... on the couch. lol (just kidding... she held the camera)
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That was a brilliant vid, very helpful and informative the only thing is that the slits that I cut I did with a hack saw because there was so many and I thought that I would get a more even cut (silly me :P), but that would proberly explane the pressure used to cut the slits and the amount of burring. I think that before I do any more work on this saber I am going to invest in some more tools. A basic tool list would be helpful!
Oh and yes you did say the name right on the vid, I felt all special when my name was mentioned LOL ;D
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think that before I do any more work on this saber I am going to invest in some more tools. A basic tool list would be helpful!
here you go
Edit : whoops forgot the link
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=8450.0
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think that before I do any more work on this saber I am going to invest in some more tools. A basic tool list would be helpful!
here you go
Edit : whoops forgot the link
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=8450.0
Thank's Darth Frodo I forgot all about that thread :D
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think that before I do any more work on this saber I am going to invest in some more tools. A basic tool list would be helpful!
here you go
Edit : whoops forgot the link
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=8450.0
Thank's Darth Frodo I forgot all about that thread :D
That's a good list but as DT says, it's not all required. When we started, all we had was a dremel, handfiles, sandpaper, soldering gunn and hotglue gun. As we got better, we would buy a tool here and there. First a Drill Press, then some other hand tools, soldering station, dremel station and other stuff that would make the job easier.
If you're just making a saber or two for your own enjoyment, then USE WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY. No sence in going out and buying a hundred dollar drill press if you're only going to use it once. ;) As you know, it's already an expensive hobby so let's not put the house up for a 2nd mortgage just yet. ;)
Using a hacksaw, Kel-Qui was a good idea...especially if you used a miter box. That would ensure pretty straight lines. The dremel, however would have given you a cleaner cut. To ensure staight lines with the dremel, this is where the graph paper comes in. Make sure you're putting it on straight and that when you wrap it around the sink tube, your lines meet up in the middle and are even. Then, slowly dremel out your pattern.
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Also, just a note: You may be burning through those discs if you are going against the rotation of the wheel. It gives more control to go that way and you get less "slips", but its harder on the discs and the dremel. I usually get through two or three sets of shrouds (brass) with those, though now I use the twist and lock versions as the screw type mandrel sometimes the screw would get hot and warped not allowing for a disc change, or the disc would come loose wearing a biiger hole around the screw then ruining the disc when it still had plenty of cutting life :-\ When cutting aluminum shrouds, nothing seems to last long :-\
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don't worry MJ I wasn't going to go out and buy everything on the list ;D as there are tool's on there for electronics and I have no clue on electronics ???, I was just going to go through it and see if there was anything that I should need eg. Tap and Dies & table top vice and clamps. One thing that I did notice that is missing that should be a basic tool(s): handfiles and sandpaper.
FenderBender: I think that is most proberly the reason as I forget that it works differently to a saw, a saw when it cuts cuts better against the the shape of the teeth but the disc on the dremel grinds the material away (please correct me if I'm wrong)
;D thanks again guy's for all your help ;D
OH! one other thing how thick are the sink tubes you use as the one I have is about 1mm thick not sure if the ones you use are thinner, just wondered if that was also a factor of going through the disc's so quickly?
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I think its 22 gauge
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This tutorial is going to come in VERY handy for me in the very near future... ;D
Thank you for posting this!
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Also, just a note: You may be burning through those discs if you are going against the rotation of the wheel. It gives more control to go that way and you get less "slips", but its harder on the discs and the dremel. I usually get through two or three sets of shrouds (brass) with those, though now I use the twist and lock versions as the screw type mandrel sometimes the screw would get hot and warped not allowing for a disc change, or the disc would come loose wearing a biiger hole around the screw then ruining the disc when it still had plenty of cutting life :-\ When cutting aluminum shrouds, nothing seems to last long :-\
Fender, you probably have had this idea already, and it isn't a dremel idea, but when cutting aluminum, try a small air powered rotary tool with some smaller sized heavy duty cutoff wheels. 8) 8) It works when i'm cutting a non saber related part at the shop, and the discs last so much longer... When we cut the quarters off of a 1960's era parts car, it only takes one wheel to cut about 3 yards of material. Perhaps cutting aluminum is totally different though.
Also, since this applies to Dremels, when cutting anything with a wheel, stop frequently and allow for a cool down period. It will make you discs last longer and generally speaking, it will make the cutting quicker.
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If it makes you feel any better, when I order cutting wheels, I buy 100 at a time ;D
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0009.jpg&hash=72713d3cf91f58394282d69de88348dcdba413b7) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0009.jpg)
Ok... so another way to de-burr and "finish" your edges.... go back to that video where I show you how to sand a sinktube. Same premise.
Let's start fresh...
After I've taken the chrome off, I would draw out my design on graph paper and glue it to the sinnktube but for purposes of this class ;D , I'll draw my line directly on the tube (cause I want to show you something in a minute ;) )
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0008.jpg&hash=e8f8e8c47f9caf0ecbbba4be3476210358c89016) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0008.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0010.jpg&hash=e8d5ffeebc993cf3502b0b05e881fedd37c51b04) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0010.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0011.jpg&hash=feda73f66580271d79e77fe65f25f12e1761cf83) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0011.jpg)
Here's what it looks like after I'm done cutting.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0012.jpg&hash=eb3d14dec5c7307bfb80468238f8b2938c514fd5) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0012.jpg)
Lot of burrs right? Both inside and outside.
Also... notice something here?
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0013.jpg&hash=12ab383902f5445d549d01d77bbdd0e7c6ed446b) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0013.jpg)
I DID NOT cut DIRECTLY on my line. The line is the ABSOLUTE. If something happens, say I take off too much during the 'de-burring' process... then there's no going back. Once it's gone... it's gone. So I leave me a bit of breathing room. The goal is to sand down to that line.
First thing I'm going to do is de-burr the inside of the tube with a sanding drum. Always at a 45 degree angle and NOT a 90 degree. The goal here is to remove the burrs, NOT get to the line (yet).
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0015.jpg&hash=0a7688a8dcb0a3803074924c319c00c6a50f1df9) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0015.jpg)
Next, with a large hand file laid down on my table, I'll LIGHTLY scrape the sinktube across it. I'm also rotating the sinktube between my fingers while I'm doing this. This ensures straight, even edges. I do this UNTIL I reach those lines. It doesn't take long... maybe a few minutes on each side.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0014.jpg&hash=102458cb9ec2ee58a5b58dde7cb05454129e87de) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0014.jpg)
Now, bust out your drill and attach your stop plug. Obviously, this shroud is too small put directly on the stop plug... so you'll make a "Shroud Supporter" <------- patent pending :D
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0017.jpg&hash=59fe977d321685e142697c5b57b45adfa7083ced) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0017.jpg)
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reciepe:
One 12 inch 1.5 sinktube
3 8/32 X 1/4 screws
directions:
Cut 2 inches off of sink tube...save for later
Slice remaing 10 inches of sink tube directly down the middle.
insert 10 in peice inside 2 inch peice
drill and secure with the 3 8/32 screws.
Ta-dah!!!!
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Ok... now attach you new shroud supporter to your stop plug. Slide your shroud onto said supporter.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0018.jpg&hash=ac3c1bb9bbfeafff60454c4d487acc80d00f332a) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0018.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0019.jpg&hash=433bc32910f1513c8a1afda695057b93dc6cc158) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0019.jpg)
With 600 grit sandpaper lightly wrapped around the shroud, pull the trigger and SLOWLY move the sandpaper back and forth over the tube. (if you do it too fast, you'll scratch horizontal lines in your sinktube)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0020.jpg&hash=26a71e8d196789ae3cf1ceded7d6b254c37298ce) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0020.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0021.jpg&hash=2405b98a867508caa1db37c185e97750e626493c) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0021.jpg)
Move up in succesion to 1500 grit. Do this till you reach the desired texture.
While the shroud is still on the supporter, I apply a little Mother's Mag or Brasso and then remove with a soft, clean rag.
And voila'!
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2FDSCF0024.jpg&hash=334e180f966401c479552338bacbe8861b01a7ab)
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0025.jpg&hash=dd1416faffb98a15f3a6e67e31545e1dd56edac2) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0025.jpg)(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FTuts%2Fth_DSCF0026.jpg&hash=2685b96b010ec6219297020b99aace9fd5b822ea) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Tuts/?action=view¤t=DSCF0026.jpg)
So not only did we de-burr... we also smoothed and ROUNDED out these edged AND polished the shroud.
The rounded edges gives it a "milled" look. More professional and not sharp edges to cut your hands on!
Go figure!
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BTW, Darth Baleful... that piece I just cut in that last post, should look pretty familiar to you. (I cut them in half after I posted this) ;)
And Darth Caden, I think this also answers your question. If not, let me know.
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Hey MJ! Thanks for the PM about your pics! Very helpful. ;) 8) 8) The shroud support idea is very ingenious!
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i thought they looked fermiliar :D that piece is all mine fellas ;) lol its great to see a master at work 8)
MTFBWY
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Durangus is correct.
This looks like a good job for some tiny hand files.
(https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/bb/bb7d56f8-a7ae-4457-92dd-301315afdb11_300.jpg)
Sit down with it... and lightly file down those edges while you're watching "It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown". ;D It takes time and patience.
Hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else and good luck!
Thread revival, but what hand files are those?
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What are you asking?
Those are hand files... smaller files of various grit. (???)
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Check out the link: :o
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=general+6+piece+needle+file+set&ved=0CCgQrQQwAg&cid=3145276591144194224&sa=title#p
Pretty strait forward...
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What are you asking?
Those are hand files... smaller files of various grit. (???)
Check out the link: :o
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=general+6+piece+needle+file+set&ved=0CCgQrQQwAg&cid=3145276591144194224&sa=title#p
Pretty strait forward...
MJ all I was asking was what specific set of hand files were those? And thanks Navel for the link!
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this topic is awesome my friend, I am learning very much!!
Really thanks. :)
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MJ all I was asking was what specific set of hand files were those? And thanks Navel for the link!
Oh. Well I just used those as an example. I'm not sure EXACTLY what brand I'm using since I buy these things often. They pretty much all work the same. ;) I've had a few that used that handle thingy, but I don't care for it too much. Too bulky.
And thanks, Gaby!
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MJ all I was asking was what specific set of hand files were those? And thanks Navel for the link!
Oh. Well I just used those as an example. I'm not sure EXACTLY what brand I'm using since I buy these things often. They pretty much all work the same. ;) I've had a few that used that handle thingy, but I don't care for it too much. Too bulky.
And thanks, Gaby!
;) Thanks.
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As seen here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=20112.msg346147;topicseen#msg346147
Dremeling Brass Rings
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FOrion%2Fth_OV11video1.jpg&hash=473cbf41c01219e3ac687c1cb15debe9d8440622) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Orion/?action=view¤t=OV11video1.mp4)
Sanding with a metal file
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FOrion%2Fth_OV11video2.jpg&hash=50c2bdbaca1955589f3fa7710f179fe572bd91d0) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Orion/?action=view¤t=OV11video2.mp4)
Polishing and rounding edges
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi605.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt138%2Fgeminiconcepts%2FOrion%2Fth_ringpolishing-1.jpg&hash=2c1102a7343a14c08967ae21528ddef5032fa9e2) (http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/tt138/geminiconcepts/Orion/?action=view¤t=ringpolishing-1.mp4)
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This is art.
It is splendid technology. :)
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Very nice tutorial !
Can I translate this tutorial into french and post it in my french blog on luxeon sabers without forgetting to say it was made by you, Master Jedye ?
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By all means... go for it. Let's not let a little thing like "translation" get in the way of teaching, shall we? ;)
(Et merci beaucoup)
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No, we won't. That's because I spend more time now on this forum than before.
I prefere to ask because you spent a lot of time writting this useful tutorial. If I had read it before working on my saber, I wouldn't have made some mistakes (not dramatical, of course ^^).
If you want to see my work for french-spoken people, you can see it on http://sen.tabesi.over-blog.fr where I wrote some articles and my own studies and translations of most interesting non-french turorials like disassembling MR or Hasbro sabers, and so on...
Thank you for your work. This is a nice work ! :)
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Sanding Down a Sinktube
I have no luck with Gold transparent powdercoating so I am still forced to sand down sinktubes. The first one I ever did, my first saber actually....was sanded down by hand. It took all day.
Then I saw Jay-Gon using brass polished sinktubes....but they were $30.
The sinktubes I use are from Ace Hardware. In the store, they cost about $9.00....online, they're about $4.00. Doing so many brass shrouded sabers, we had to come up with an easier way to sand it down....so here's a video of how we do it.
If you have a better way, please let me know.
All you need is a drill, a 5/8 compression stop plug, a heavy (thick) glove and sandpaper (80 grit to 1500 grit). For the final "polishing", I use the same technique but with 0000 steel wool and Brasso or Flitz metal polish
The results....a smooth, gold sinktube!
VIDEO-------------> http://s605.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=FILE0001.flv
Hey everyone,
As no one asked I guess a compression plug is something common in the US, but I've not been able to find something like that around my place (I live in france) or even on the web. Where do you guys buy these things? Is there a website that sells this kind of stuff?
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I couldn't exactly what we use during an online search, but It's pretty similar to this;
http://topkayaker.net/TopKayakerShop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=390
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It's not just you. I live in the US and had to google what it was too...but I watched the video twice before I figured out what he was referring to and guessed based on the usage of it, that it was being used for a modified purpose. Basically, a rubber type plug that you can insert into the sinktube to hold it on the drill so you can work the outside.
[/QUOTE]
Hey everyone,
As no one asked I guess a compression plug is something common in the US, but I've not been able to find something like that around my place (I live in france) or even on the web. Where do you guys buy these things? Is there a website that sells this kind of stuff?
[/quote]
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Thanks guys,
I didn't realize this was something you made by yourself! I thought this was some kind of tool used in plumbery and whatnot.
I think I'll try to make one out of a piece of rubber, two large washers and a thick threaded rod.
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Thanks guys,
I didn't realize this was something you made by yourself! I thought this was some kind of tool used in plumbery and whatnot.
I think I'll try to make one out of a piece of rubber, two large washers and a thick threaded rod.
We didn't make it ourselves.
It's a 1.5 base for a sanding drum.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareworld.com%2Ffiles%2Fpi%2FlH%2FV%2F38H1.jpg&hash=3e858ebc92241ad29548f8f67f0921bfa3e2f441)
Here's one on ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.com/1-5-DIA-1-TALL-RUBBER-BACKING-SANDING-DRUM-DRILL-BIT-/110460069940
Here's another: http://www.hardwareworld.com/Drum-Sanding-Kit--15-inch-p38H1HV.aspx
But these can be found at Lowes or Ace hardware
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LOVE this idea. Going to have to set something like this up when I get back home. ;D ;D
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this is great! glad i read it, it'll help me out quite a bit!
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Holy Wow on a stick this is a great tutorial! Basic or not it helped a lot!
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Dremel the best:)
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i just want to say thank you for doing this tutorial. Because I'm younger, a lot of these tools (and the one's my dad has available) are just unknown to me. I found this tutorial really helpful to read, and I practiced on some random 3/4" PVC i had laying around, and you can do some really cool things with this! I will certainly be using it in the future!
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This is a great tutorial.
Every time I come to this thread, I chuckle to that 1 vote that says that this tutorial wasn't helpful ;D
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this just made me realized go with a corded dremel for the power, and leave the cordless one alone. Awesome tips as well going to start a WIP soon ;D
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this was extremely helpful, thanks
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Good tutorial. Gave me a new idea. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
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Facesheild is much better then goggle to anyone wondering. I still took shrapnal to the eye wearing vented goggles. This guide is great though thank you for posting it.
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Hey,
What would be a professional tool for small cutting like that if it is to hard for the dremel?
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One thing I'd like to put in, is that I got a diamond wheel almost 6 months ago, and I can't say enough good things about it! I haven't used another cutting wheel since I've gotten it.