Well Master Yoda's asked me to post this for him and, oh well, here it is:
Well I'm finally done with my HYPERDYNE conversion that I installed in
a Vintage Graflex and styled it as an ESB.
I'll start with the Electronics:
All the electronics are a High Quality Surface Mount system that is as
well put together as any other similar Radio control type electronics that
have low mounted components to improve their shock resistance.
The Blade Boards, V2 Blue.
3 individual PC type strips connected by teflon jumper data type cables.
Blade Tubes, are simply Dual Nylon tubes.
The Driver, V2.
Includes most all features imaginable with the different core pulse
rates and my favorite...
the movie flicker effect.
Slow, Medium or Fast Blade Ignition speeds and a selectable 9 levels of
The Sound, Amplified L6.
That elusive snap hiss start-up sound many have been wanting is very
The Battery, 11.1 Volt and Charger.
The Battery is a relatively compact 3 cell unit and comes shrink
wrapped and pre wired.
The charger is an easy to use AC/DC alligator clip type.
So on to the installation... This required having numerous spare MR
parts around to complete and the conversion took along time to do because it requires hand
fitting and refinement to the users personal preference as you install it.
I wanted it to be as perfect as I could ; ) and to fit it all with in
the Graflex and have the blade be easily removable simply by loosening the
set screw (Red button ESB glass eye ANH).
First I decided to use an MR type of tube instead of the Nylon so it
matched my other sabers.
Both types Diffuse equally well... you may still see some slight hot
spotting from the LEDs but it's acceptable once the effects are used.
If your going to duel with it, use the Hyperdyne tubes as it makes a
stronger set up.
The MR set up is weaker and harder to do but looks nicer if the intent
is to just display it.
I used the inner diffuser foam and diffuser tube that I fit into a
custom length polycarb tube cut to match the blade boards.
The Blade board jumper wires (teflon strip type) are a bit long for my
taste and I actually cut them down and stripped the ends and re-soldered the connections to allow the
boards to but together.
This set up is not as duel worthy as leaving the length of the strip in
place... but it allowed me to significantly reduce the dark spot created by the gap of the strip.
(I may eventually replace the teflon strips with a different type once
I find an acceptable replacement to allow it to flex more again, but as I said... mine is for display so
I'm not worried about it.)
Then I used an MR Blade Bottom connector to fit the Hyperdyne blade
(Both the Nylon and MR tubes could be made to accept the bottom plug)
If you want your Blade to be used for Dueling then go with Hyperdynes Dual tube setup
as it will allow the blade to take the impacts it was designed for.
Th Dual Nylon tubes provide a strong set up and will take a lot of punishment.
I just wanted the polycarbonate look to match my other sabers.
Which is one of the nice things about a Hyperdyne as you can build it the way you want 8)
I also used one of these types of connector housings to mount the
driver plug into the Adapter in the Hilt.
I used a Graflex shop adapter because it's a deeper socket and allowed
me to hide the entire plug in the hilt as well as have a space to seat the custom made
housing for the inner plug coming from the driver.
I then moved onto fitting everything inside and quickly started to run
out of room as I got near the bottom, but everything did fit once I shortened all the necessary wires
and routed the recharge plug in a housing to hold it.
In typical saber layout fashion the Driver and sound board sit under
the adapter and the battery is at the bottom on top of the speaker.
The entire assembly is held in place by a plastic tubing that is used
for protecting the long flourescent bulbs.
I simply cut it to wrap the correct diameter and used 3M VHB Double
sided tape to adhere the tube to the upper mount and act as a support for the inner
This also eliminates the possibility of any electrical components touching the metal shell of the
inside of the hilt.
After all was said and done (2 weeks later) I was able to start testing
The Battery takes about 3-4 times to charge it to get it primed enough
to hold a good charge. (typical of many "rechargeable" of amy make-up)
So here are my findings...
At Max Brightness Level 9... drains the battery way to quickly and puts
out more heat than one would want so I don't recommend using it at the brightest level.
It's simply not needed once the rest of the effects are set and an
acceptable brightness level for the blue is between level 4 - 5.
This will keep things running for approximately 35 minutes with flicker
and flash effects constantly going being triggered as well as multiple ignitions and shut downs.
The Shock sensor is mounted to the board so it takes a good whack of
the hilt to trigger it but this can be remedied by removing it from the board and attaching
leads that will allow the installer to mount it in a more sensitive manner.
MY personal settings are Movie flicker effect and Level 4 brightness.
I like the way it came out and it definitely is the brightest blade
available with the most effects built in to a complete working system.
My only suggestions to Hyperdyne were as follows:
(1) make an "optional" one piece blade board for eliminating the Gaps
for the purpose of display if not being used for dueling.
(2) Separate the shock sensor from the board so it can be mounted in a
more sensitive user defined location.
Other than that it's really up to the user to be familiar with the
system in order to achieve optimal operation and installation.
Also by making the blade plug in and out as I did adds convenience BUT!
Even though the housing for the inner plug in the hilt is held by a set
It's still plastic holding onto metal and if some one didn't know to
pull it straight out gently and decides to twist it around... it could dislodge from the screw and
it will ruin the inner components installation integrity.
So my advise is if you plan to make a similar "plug in" removable
blade.... Be careful with it when plugging in and out.
The only way to remedy this is to make a special adapter that would
have a channel in it that would match up to an alignment guide that would need to be glued
to the blade.
It would have to be a special design specifically for this application.
All in all I'm pleased with the set up, but it's not for the faint of
Patience of installation nor is it for the faint of wallet because...
at $505 for the system $120 for a Vintage Graflex $50 for Grips and set
screw eye or button, Graflexshop adapter $25. $10 in misc plastic parts... AND you'll need
spare MR parts. Then of course... there's the time it takes to do it.
Let's just say it's not cheap by any means and you really should have
experience soldering and installing to attempt this type of customized installation as I did with this
If all your doing is simply plugging everything in and sticking it in a
hilt with the fixed blade method it would be a lot easier as the Hyperdyne instructions on the
disk show you to do.
Essentially you can pull it out of the box and charge up and plug it in
and it will work. It all amounts to the installation integrity which is up to the user.
If you have an extensive or elaborate Lightsaber collection and want to
see how different it is in comparison to the Stock MR Sabers in your display... then this System is for you.
The attached pictures will show you a visual reference as to how mine
Also attached are the picts of the Hyperdyne, MR and My Graflex Luxeon
for brightness comparisons.
Both the Hyperdyne and Luxeon make the MR blade look weak and
Now on that note since I know everyones going to ask my opinion...
Hyperdyne system addresses the flex issue but is still a Saber blade
with electronics in it. As much as I like the way it looks, I wouldn't duel as hard or as much
with it as you can an empty blade.
Hence why I feel the types of sabers are in different categories...
Compare the brightness all you want... but structural integrity are two
separate worlds and to compare or even debate the two is pointless.
"Empty Bladed Sabers" or "Component bladed Sabers"
A Luxeon is simplicity (at it's finest in a Graflex of course) and much
cheaper/easier to replace the blades and maintain it.
The Hyperdyne is a more complex system that requires more user
interface and because it's a component blade It shares this category as the MR does.
But it has all the features and advantages many originally wanted to
see in their MRs.
I've added this to my collection in my favorite type of hilt... now I
need to find just the right place to display it.
May The Force Be With You
AND NOW TO THE PICS:
click to enlarge!
MOVIE FLICKER EFFECT TEST VIDEO:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEcPtpoMHqc
--- levelnext says: WOW Thanks Master Yoda for keeping us posted! That's a sweet saber.
may the force be with you all.