I will do some more pics on how I diffused the blade. I used basically the same technique I applied to segmented LED string blades:
- TCSS transwhite blade
- with the accompanying diffuser rod (!!!)
- and a packing foam wrapped around the stripes.
I know it's suggested to use a capacitor to mitigate the voltage spike when turning on the neopixel strip, but does anybody use one?
Connect the battery to the 5v pad. It should be fine. I've used micro, nano, uno, and attiny85 all with no problem.
The specs seem OK, and the reviews I've found seem to feel the ratings are legitimate. This seems very odd.
Can you pinpoint in the code when it starts misbehaving? The MPU and the sound chip consume negligible power compared to the stripes. How many pixels are you trying to use? Because if you use too many, you can easily have the controller run out of dynamic memory and freeze (mostly reset). Now if you stop MPU and sound chip (i.e. free up some dynamic memory) it might again have enough free space to run the code. As a good rule of thumb, do not use more than 120 pixels. For trial start by reducing the number of pixs to say about 50 and report what you see (hear, feel etc.)
I have received my new arduino, I'm trying to get the whole system set up, but for some reason the push button is behaving strange.
A single press is taken into account as a double press, causing the jukebox to trigger.
Do you guys how to fix this issue?
START CONF
Main button longPress stop
Main button double click.
Main colorMain button click.
Main button click.
Main button click.
Which software do you use?
As to the FastLED lib, at least the FX-SaberOS developer community decided against it due to it being quite storage space intensive, as opposed to the one currently used. With all the latest improvements in the Arduino IDE it could just be that we can accommodate now the FastLED lib, so feel free to experiment and let us know the results.
As to freeze, in my experience it's always because the board has a memory overflow.
Do most of you run these at 100% output?
I've tended to find that at full brightness the 2812's I run are 1) too bright (except in broad daylight) to the point that it actually leaves artifacts in my vision when I swing one, 2) corncob and will expose more blemishes in the packing, and 3) actually start washing out the colors to the point they don't expose properly in pictures.
Kind of an additional random thought - has anyone done a side by side comparison of those with black and those with white strip/PCBs? I wonder if the color of that strip makes any difference.
I bought two 1m strips but you're correct, there's a solder joint at 50cm.
I bought two 1m strips but you're correct, there's a solder joint at 50cm.
The 2m strips look like they'd be a pretty good bargain though, based on the price there.
How long did it take for them to arrive?
So any difference between sk6812 5050 and 3535 other than size?
Just finished building my blade. Waiting for my Ascend to test it out. Should have it in about a week.
32” Blade was constructed using:
2 Adafruit Skinny Neopixel strips (228 leds)
Strips heatshriked with clear heat shrink
3’ of blade film rolled around the strips “inside” the TCSS foam
All of that inside of TCSS 1” diffuser
Then slid inside Trans White blade
Will post results as soon as my Ascend arrives.
I think you just sold me that the skinny strips aren't worth it. Blades with 5050 strips are way brighter than my RGB Star type blades.
I think red looks really good with the Enhanced Blue blade also. I disagree with Obi1 that the red is weak on a Neopixel. I find the red to be blazing! and the fact that you can tune a slightly 'crimson' red is just amazing... and that is actually my favorite. But my friends that see the saber in person prefer the straight red... that is produced just from the red diodes in the pixel... very nice in our opinion. I do think even the red is superior to LED but then again... my weakness is not having much experience with standard LEDs so maybe the new ones are super powerful I've just not seen those in person. Its' just that in person I can speak for the neopixel which I think looks incredibly bright and even. Can't beat retraction and extension capabilities IMO... very biased here though hee hee :cheesy:
Yeah, my pixels are clearly better than my RGB Cree, for any color really.
It's always a little tricky to rely on comparison pics or videos, I find that while in hilt led configs with dedicated colors photograph great, the difference when viewed in person tends to favor neopixel setups, particularly when there's a fair amount of ambient light.
Yeah, my pixels are clearly better than my RGB Cree, for any color really.
The point I am trying to make is “of course” a Neopixel blade will be brighter than an RGB Cree. But a dedicated red, green, or blue Cree will be pretty darn close in brightness to the Neopixel setups.
RGB Crees only have one die for those main colors and therefore the Neopixels will blow them out of the water.
Videos incoming momentarily
Yeah, my pixels are clearly better than my RGB Cree, for any color really.
The point I am trying to make is “of course” a Neopixel blade will be brighter than an RGB Cree. But a dedicated red, green, or blue Cree will be pretty darn close in brightness to the Neopixel setups.
RGB Crees only have one die for those main colors and therefore the Neopixels will blow them out of the water.
Videos incoming momentarily
Yesterday I soldered up my dR/dR/W (dR stays for Deep Red) custom tri-Cree module to try it out. I still have to re-check the wiring and the resistors, but I have to tell, I'm slightly disappointed. The 2 red dies combines are not really brighter than red with RGB and certainly way less bright than 2-strips neopixel red. Anthony, one goes to you :) !
Yesterday I soldered up my dR/dR/W (dR stays for Deep Red) custom tri-Cree module to try it out. I still have to re-check the wiring and the resistors, but I have to tell, I'm slightly disappointed. The 2 red dies combines are not really brighter than red with RGB and certainly way less bright than 2-strips neopixel red. Anthony, one goes to you :) !
Right, I'm asking for help here.
After a bit of a flop with making my own diffuser from packing foam, I caved at JQ Saber's May 4th discount and bought the TCSS foam pixel diffuser. Getting the pixel strips in the foam tube was easy.
Now, I'm stuck on how to get that !"£$%^& glorified glowing pool noodle into a 1" light duelling blade. I can get about an inch and a half into the hilt before friction kicks in, and all my attempts at pushing just bend the foam rather than making any progress. I've tried what I used with my LED string saber, ie, sliding it as far as it goes, then whacking on the other end with a mallet, but no dice.
Any ideas?
If you are using the strip diffuser inside your blade, and trying to get 1" TCSS foam in, its really tight. I have had luck tying a string to the foam and pulling the foam and strips into the blade, rather than pushing them. But, the best bet is to use 7/8" blade foam, and then just add cellophane outside the foam until it is tight, but not ridiculous going into your blade. Looks phenomenal, and the layers of cellophane outside the foam diffuses better, and gives the appearance of a core when the blade is ignited.
TOm