Need help: SaberCore 2.0 Viridian Wiring Diagram

[AgentWinter]

Greetings all.

I have recently been  given a  SaberForge saber with a SaberCore 2.0 Viridian soundboard by a friend to fix, as he has zero electronics/soldering experience, and none of the required tools (e.g. soldering iron).

Originally, it appeared to be a fairly simple broken wire job, but there turned out to be more of a problem than expecting (including the LED cluster having died - 2/4 LEDs blown). So, I turned to the web to get a wiring diagram to repair it, but things are never simple...

I found two wiring diagrams (after a fair amount of digging), but neither seem to match how the saber was originally wired (the lack of a DynaOhm resistor is also concerning). The friend in question assures me he bought it new from SaberForge (who obviously want us to send it back to them for repairs... we're in the UK, so that is a crazy expensive non-option), and it hasn't been modified or worked on in any way.

So, I need guidance. Are the two diagrams (see below) both viable but alternative options? Is one right and one wrong? And does anyone know why there is a resistor soldered in awful fashion on a battery terminal on the board (last two pics).

Many thanks if you are able to help me with this one.

[jbkuma]

For various reasons you might not find a lot of SaberForge specific help here, but as you say that wiring job is obviously problematic to say the least.

It's unclear from your photos how things are actually wired, but the diagrams seem pretty straightforward and the board seems very simplistic.  The main difference is that the top diagram shows the LED in the switch wired to behave like the main LED and the second would be always on unless a kill key was inserted.  A DynaOhm is merely a constant current device for the LED, a simple resistor is totally sufficient for this purpose.

The resistor in the image appears to be 22ohm.  This would probably be for an illuminated switch with a forward voltage of about 3.3, although the Vf is usually around 3 for bluer colors down to 2ish for redder colors and resistor would need to be in the 40-100 range.

If they wiring broke and bridged something it could easily have popped one of the main LEDs.  They are typically driven near their practical limit.

[AgentWinter]

For various reasons you might not find a lot of SaberForge specific help here, but as you say that wiring job is obviously problematic to say the least.

It's unclear from your photos how things are actually wired, but the diagrams seem pretty straightforward and the board seems very simplistic.  The main difference is that the top diagram shows the LED in the switch wired to behave like the main LED and the second would be always on unless a kill key was inserted.  A DynaOhm is merely a constant current device for the LED, a simple resistor is totally sufficient for this purpose.

The resistor in the image appears to be 22ohm.  This would probably be for an illuminated switch with a forward voltage of about 3.3, although the Vf is usually around 3 for bluer colors down to 2ish for redder colors and resistor would need to be in the 40-100 range.

If they wiring broke and bridged something it could easily have popped one of the main LEDs.  They are typically driven near their practical limit.

Thanks jbkuma, I went with the second option as that sounded like how my friend described the operation. Saber is now working, just waiting on liquid electrical tape to cure before putting the bottom of the hilt back on.

With regards to SaberForge and "not a lot of  help".... yeah, had noticed that here and elsewhere. Given the reviews, it seem they're a bit... crap. Prevailing opinion seems to be "they're hilts are nice, but their electronics suck".