My US 2.1 powered MHS saber

[Lord Dracus]

 That is a cool saber you've got there !!! 8) Very nice. :)

[Jasher Kain]

Beautiful saber. I love the design. 8) (Maybe because I have one similar to it... ::))
Very shiny and a great blade color!

[Spanky Oleary]

It's amazing what a little copper can do. Very nice job. Some day I gotta get a saber with US.

[Luke S.]

That is one of the most amazing sabers I have ever seen.   ;D   For real.




I even have the brass ring going in the same place yours is.  What are the chances.  You have great taste.

I am amazed you got the 18650 pack in.  I had to make my saber almost 13" to get it in.  I'm guessing you used the pommel space.  I started out with the version 1 pommel that was shorter.  Had Tim made the version 2 in time I could have shaved off an inch or so.  :'(

[CHEWBACCA]

Thanks everyone for the comments.  I really do appreciate them.

That is one of the most amazing sabers I have ever seen.   ;D   For real.




I even have the brass ring going in the same place yours is.  What are the chances.  You have great taste.

I am amazed you got the 18650 pack in.  I had to make my saber almost 13" to get it in.  I'm guessing you used the pommel space.  I started out with the version 1 pommel that was shorter.  Had Tim made the version 2 in time I could have shaved off an inch or so.  :'(

very nice saber indeed...great minds think alike right :D.

actually I am not using the pommel space.  I am doing something similar to the compact set up that TCSS sells.  I used that speaker mount but rounded it down so the battery would fit, then I notched it on the bottom so I could get a tie wrap around it to secure the battery.  Then I mounted the US 2.1 on the battery itself. 

I was a little worried about doing this at first but the battery is secured at the bottom (where the card is) with the tie wrap (and double sided tape as well) and I have it secured in the end of the saber as well (under the switch) so the battery isnt moving.  After putting the card on I checked clearance and its actually a little more clearance (not by much) than the compact set up.  The card is also secured with double sided tape and a tie wrap (though not too tight to warp it) plus after soldering all the wires on the card I tie wrapped the wires down to the battery so its not moving either.  My next step is to get some thin plastic to wrap the inner part of the hilt for insurance just in case a fluke happens and the card does move.

the battery pack runs from the speaker mount all the way to almost the bottom of the LED heatsink but has over an inch clearance (its right under the switch).

Now I have not been doing this very long and am no sabersmith but I feel its a neat (everything is nice and neat, no excess wires and all ran nicely and its nice and secure) safe way to do it.  I hope I am not wrong. 

[Snake-Eyes]

Very slick saber!  The polish is one of my favorite attributes; very clean...  Lots of sanding/polishing went into your saber, and it shows beautifully.   :)

The brass rods I found at hobby lobby.  They are just 1/8th"  square rods (cant remember length).  I think there were 3 in the package.  I had to buy 2 packages because I was one short of being able to finish the grip (can make 2 of the grip pieces with one rod).  They were around the wood soap box derby cars (cant remember the name but the kind you make in boy scouts from a block of wood).  I used a small miter box to cut them at 30 degree angles then sanded them to round them off and polished them.

After you sanded and polished these strips, how did you attach such a thin strip so that it was stable enough to handle?

[Reg-Ma]

Wow very nice saber, you did a great polishing job MH.
I like it very much! ;D ;D

[CHEWBACCA]

Very slick saber!  The polish is one of my favorite attributes; very clean...  Lots of sanding/polishing went into your saber, and it shows beautifully.   :)

The brass rods I found at hobby lobby.  They are just 1/8th"  square rods (cant remember length).  I think there were 3 in the package.  I had to buy 2 packages because I was one short of being able to finish the grip (can make 2 of the grip pieces with one rod).  They were around the wood soap box derby cars (cant remember the name but the kind you make in boy scouts from a block of wood).  I used a small miter box to cut them at 30 degree angles then sanded them to round them off and polished them.

After you sanded and polished these strips, how did you attach such a thin strip so that it was stable enough to handle?

Thanks,

I used JB weld to attach them.  I just scuffed the bottom of them (didn't polish that part) and the slot it was going in.  I used a very small, thin amount (used a toothpick to apply it) but it doesn't take much.