fiduciary

Author Topic: K4 Installed  (Read 4305 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Darth PJs

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Don't Question R2-D2's street cred!
K4 Installed
« on: February 22, 2017, 09:18:35 AM »
Greetings,

I've finished my K4 with the following specs:

Custom weathering to reflect the ANH Ben saber
Crystal Shard 2.0
TriCree Red/Green/Royal blue
TCSS 18650 3400 mAH battery
Darth Ryo 3d printed chassis (3 parts - battery holder, modified NBv3 chassis, 20mm Speaker/Port combo)
20mm bass speaker from TCSS
2.1mm recharge port
Activation/Aux buttons from the K4 kit
2 Sound Fonts:
   JuanSith's "The Master" ANH Ben Kenobi font - Blue/Green for light blue with Red FoC
   My own "Hermit" font - Ice blue with light green FoC

3mm blue accent LED in the pummel


Pics:











Personally, I did not really enjoy this install.  I found it to be a bit complicated regarding the switch setup.  I think if I would install another one I would use a 3D printed switch holder for clamp activation, etc.  I also found that the emitter, neck, section does not seem to screw together securely.  I do, however, enjoy how the final look of the saber came together.

Thanks!




Offline Scorpion

  • Master Force User
  • *****
  • Posts: 3795
  • GET OVER HERE!!!
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2017, 10:07:28 AM »
Looks great well done


JQ SABERS MASTER ORGUS DIN CFX
JQ/LDM/MH GK3 OBI-WAN KENOBI Proffie
JQ MASTER REPLICAS LE SIDIOUS CONVERSION CS3
JQ~OM AWESOMESAUCE MAUL STAFF DUAL CFv7
LDM MKVI LUKE SKYWALKER ROTJ REVEAL CFv6
JQ SABERS OBI-WAN EP4 ANH (RUSSREP)CSV4
FX SABERS VINTAGE GRAFLEX IV ANH CFv5
FX SABERS VINTAGE GRAFLEX V ESB CFv5
JQ SABERS OBI-WAN REVEAL AOTC CS3.0
JQ~VV STARKILLER #2 RUN1 CFv6 cex
JQ~OM ANAKIN "Skinnyflex" CS3
JQ~TRIDCLOUD ANAKIN AOTC CFv7
SC~VV QUIGON JINN #2 CFv5
OM OBIWAN TPM #2 CFv5
JQ SABERS LUKE ROTJ CFv4
JQ~korbanth DOOKU CS2
JQ~korbanth SIDIOUS CS2
JQ SABERS Kylo Ren CS3
LINK TO MY SABERS

Offline Thexter

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 148
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2017, 10:49:56 AM »
Great looking saber. That is some excellent weathering!

Offline Darth PJs

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Don't Question R2-D2's street cred!
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2017, 05:14:42 PM »
Thanks all!

Offline mangaman

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 4
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2017, 08:16:13 AM »
Great job!

Offline sllikskills

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2017, 12:34:48 PM »
Awesome job man - Definitely respect the amount of work that you have put in. I've been playing with mine for a while now, and know that it won't be an easy task to put together. However, this is exactly what I'm going to be doing as well this weekend (or as soon as my resistors arrive). One question if you will, sir -
-how did you mount the switches that Korbanth provided inside of the clamp card area? I have coincidentally the same chassis parts arriving tomorrow, and wondering how this switch will be fitting relative to the chassis. Did you use glue? And with it installed near the bottom, does this interfere with the chassis sliding out (AKA you won't be able to slide the chassis out anymore without prying out the switch?)

Hopefully mine will come out as well as yours. Thankfully I'm going Episode 3, so the only weathering I really have to do is sanding the black off that dang emitter piece. Thanks in advance!

Offline Darth PJs

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Don't Question R2-D2's street cred!
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2017, 05:04:54 PM »
Awesome job man - Definitely respect the amount of work that you have put in. I've been playing with mine for a while now, and know that it won't be an easy task to put together. However, this is exactly what I'm going to be doing as well this weekend (or as soon as my resistors arrive). One question if you will, sir -
-how did you mount the switches that Korbanth provided inside of the clamp card area? I have coincidentally the same chassis parts arriving tomorrow, and wondering how this switch will be fitting relative to the chassis. Did you use glue? And with it installed near the bottom, does this interfere with the chassis sliding out (AKA you won't be able to slide the chassis out anymore without prying out the switch?)

Hopefully mine will come out as well as yours. Thankfully I'm going Episode 3, so the only weathering I really have to do is sanding the black off that dang emitter piece. Thanks in advance!

The switches was the most difficult part. I kept the switches mounted on the board and wired them up. I used the top switch for the activation and the bottom for the Aux.  If you are using a NB if you wire one switch both of them will activate and shut off the saber.

After I had them wired up I did glue the switch board assembly in the appropriate indented section in the hilt. I ran the wires down so they could be soldered to the soundboard. You'll need to have the saber mostly disassembled for the next part - have the pommel and the gear off.  You will also want to take the Graflex clamp apart as well. After the glue has dried you will need to slide the clamp over the switches being careful not to displace the switches.  Go ahead and wire up the rest of the board. When you push your chassis in, slowly work the switch wires up as you go so as to not pinch them. Secure the clamp and align your switches with the clamp holes. You should now be able to test fit the switch caps. If everything works ok and the switches click, then you can glue the caps to the switches. I suggest using a gel glue and not a liquid glue that will run down and glue your switch down.   I was able to move the chassis out if needed.


Also, when you sand the emitter, you'll want to use a fine grit so that you do not scratch up the surface below the finish. I sanded mine down almost to a polish before I went back and did the weathering. I used 1200 grit sandpaper (it's what I had) and some gun oil so as to not harm the surface. This took a long time, but my emitter wasn't all scratched up.

I hope this helps you out.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2017, 05:10:47 PM by Darth PJs »

Offline sllikskills

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2017, 01:21:13 PM »
Darth PJs

That was the only way it made sense to me in my head, and I hoped that there was some other obvious method that I wasn't thinking about, but nothing substitutes hard work! Can't wait to get started. Thank you for this information man!

As for the emitter, I finished of with 1500 grit and it looks nice, however unfortunately I started off with a 150 grit (I have no idea why in hindsight). Didn't use any sorts of oil either, so the scratches are visible along the top of the emitter. Sucks, but it doesn't look too bad. I'll try to rework it to get the scratches out at a later time once I have the electronics installed. But this was my first time working with metal and moreover sanding paint properly off of it. Once again, your info was really helpful so I will definitely be taking that into consideration for the next time I will need to do something like that.

Thanks PJs!

Offline Darth PJs

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Don't Question R2-D2's street cred!
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2017, 10:19:12 AM »
Darth PJs

That was the only way it made sense to me in my head, and I hoped that there was some other obvious method that I wasn't thinking about, but nothing substitutes hard work! Can't wait to get started. Thank you for this information man!

As for the emitter, I finished of with 1500 grit and it looks nice, however unfortunately I started off with a 150 grit (I have no idea why in hindsight). Didn't use any sorts of oil either, so the scratches are visible along the top of the emitter. Sucks, but it doesn't look too bad. I'll try to rework it to get the scratches out at a later time once I have the electronics installed. But this was my first time working with metal and moreover sanding paint properly off of it. Once again, your info was really helpful so I will definitely be taking that into consideration for the next time I will need to do something like that.

Thanks PJs!

My pleasure.

Offline mangaman

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 4
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2017, 08:54:02 AM »
Did you place the star led pcb directly on the 7/8 emitter, without heatsink?

Offline Darth PJs

  • Force User
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Don't Question R2-D2's street cred!
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2017, 09:51:46 AM »
Did you place the star led pcb directly on the 7/8 emitter, without heatsink?

Yes. I used thermal tape. Thanks!

Offline mangaman

  • No Force
  • *
  • Posts: 4
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2017, 12:18:47 PM »
Gathering infos.. I have to build mine ;-)

Offline vsutherland01

  • Padawan Learner
  • **
  • Posts: 61
  • Um...Hello?
Re: K4 Installed
« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2017, 09:38:32 PM »
Did you place the star led pcb directly on the 7/8 emitter, without heatsink?

Yes. I used thermal tape. Thanks!

Just wanted to get some things straight on this one. I am doing research for the gull-wing LS6 coming out. It will probably be the same situation as the K4.

You just mount the Tri Cree to the bottom of the emitter and then put the lens on it. How does the blade fit in with that? How much bite on the blade do you get and does the blade fit down over the lens of the LED? Or does it have to sit up on top of it? I don't want the blade to go in and munch up my connections of one of the diodes. Well I would never do that but I don't want to build something for a customer that has potential to break easily.

Sorry for all the questions I just want to be prepared for the LS6 situation.

 

retrousse