FX-Sabers.com
The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => Vader's Vault => Topic started by: Ziathon on March 18, 2016, 01:14:43 AM
-
Hello all, I have been putting together images of the various colors that can be made using the RGB settings in the override.txt file. I wanted to post them here for everyone who may be interested to see what colors they can make and how. This is by no means comprehensive, but it is an initial look at what one could do with simply setting either the R, G or B at maximum and varying only one other color. These are all taken using my new Dark Ardent. I am working on other settings now and will have them up soon. I hope this is handy for people.
(https://i.imgur.com/TL652qQ.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/TL652qQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jbQKoHH.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/jbQKoHH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qNFiQdP.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/qNFiQdP.jpg)
-
that is awesome and a lot of work on your part. thanks!
-
Does the 0 value always denote the FOC, regardless of any of the three LEDs? e.g say you have x,0,y and 0,x,y
-
I will start this out by saying this is my first lightsaber, ever, so please, anyone correct me if I am wrong here :).
In my case, I got the RGB option. I have 3 LEDs - 1 Red, 1 Green and 1 Blue. I can change the intensity of each LED by selecting a value from 0 to 1023 for each in the override.txt file. I have settings for the 10 colors and their 10 corresponding FOC colors. For each, I select the R,G,B intensities. For example, I could have a pure red blade color 1023,0,0 (no green or blue, just red at full intensity). It's FOC is bright white 1023,1023,1023 (full intensity of all three colors).
If I just received the suncrusher single colors, I would still have 3 LEDs but it would be a little different - 2 Colored LEDs and 1 White. The colored LEDs can be BOTH red, blue or green if you chose those 'simple' colors (simple meaning non-mixed). That is why for those 'simple' colors, people say they are brighter than the RGB sabers on red, blue and green. If you chose orange, for example, it would be 1 red, 1 green and 1 white. Purple would be 1 red, 1 blue and 1 white. In the case of orange and purple, there is no benefit to brightness over the RGB option.
In the single color sabers, the white LED is turned on for FOC. Using a similar example above, a pure red blade color setting (drive) would look like this 1023,1023,0. It's FOC (fdrive) would be 1023,1023,1023. In this case, 2 red LEDs are at full intensity all the time and then the white LED is turned on full intensity for the FOC.
Again, I am new to all of this, but that is how I believe it works. There is another thread called 'Lock up effect question' started by pfek on the 9th asking how to turn down the intensity of the FOC on his suncrusher green saber. Luminara informed them to try making their third value 800 instead of 1023 to tone down the intensity of the white.
Hope that helps and please, if I am wrong, correct me :). I want this to be a place people can go to really understand the color options available and how to do them without the trial and error and with the correct information.
-
I have gotten a few more ready. Here they are. It is interesting to see how strong the blue and red are compared to the green.
(https://i.imgur.com/BDGWw2r.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/BDGWw2r.jpg)
R full intensity, increment G, B 0 200 and 400
(https://i.imgur.com/rugPaCT.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/rugPaCT.jpg)
increment R, G full intensity, B 0 200 and 400
(https://i.imgur.com/gHvO2SS.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/gHvO2SS.jpg)
R 0 200 and 400, increment G, B full intensity
(https://i.imgur.com/mKW3aDM.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/mKW3aDM.jpg)
increment R, G0 200 400, B full intensity
-
This is really very helpful - thank you!
-
This is amazing! Very helpful in portraying the possibilities, thanks for taking the time to do this. I bet it took some time!
-
Thanks! I hope it helps people. It can be a little overwhelming, but it is great to have a sense on what the settings you plug in will do.
It has taken a little time, but it was absolutely worth it. I didn't look at any of the pictures as I was taking them (I took test images to make sure all was well). It was really cool to see the grids come together afterwards :).
-
I'm curious,
What set up are you using? Ie; what sound board, what LED, and battery?
To my knowlage, most red LEDs can only be pushed to 700-750mA but there are some that can use 1000mA...
And if you are pushing 1023mA into a red, are you afraid of blowing the LED?
Elim
-
Wow very handy work, will be great for getting that ANH green/blue colour That Im planning.
Thank you
-
Nice work,Thanks much!
-
Wow - bet that was a lot of work as I'm assuming you used a combat class VV saber without RICE. With RICE trying out new settings is a lot easier, but I've never missed the RICE port on my two VV sabers - once you've found a great setup you don't need it - it's only for doing things like this that it becomes really useful, and you've done this the hard way now!
Very useful reference, thanks for sharing. :grin:
-
I'm curious,
What set up are you using? Ie; what sound board, what LED, and battery?
To my knowlage, most red LEDs can only be pushed to 700-750mA but there are some that can use 1000mA...
And if you are pushing 1023mA into a red, are you afraid of blowing the LED?
Elim
I'm assuming this was done with a VV combat class saber - these use Plecter Labs Crystal Shard cards with single 18650 batteries. With the VV LED setup it is absolutely fine to drive all three LEDs to the max for CS at 1023 in the settings. The default color profiles as supplied by VV drive them to 1023 across the board in various mixes.
-
Wow - bet that was a lot of work as I'm assuming you used a combat class VV saber without RICE. With RICE trying out new settings is a lot easier, but I've never missed the RICE port on my two VV sabers - once you've found a great setup you don't need it - it's only for doing things like this that it becomes really useful, and you've done this the hard way now!
Very useful reference, thanks for sharing. :grin:
Yes, I was using my combat class Dark Ardent from VV. Being a complete saber noob (my first one ever), I don't even know what RICE is haha. Sounds like it would have made my life pretty simple for this. For those that don't have that though (sounds like all combat class people) hopefully this helps. And, I agree, once I find the colors I like, I will be set.
[/quote]
I'm assuming this was done with a VV combat class saber - these use Plecter Labs Crystal Shard cards with single 18650 batteries. With the VV LED setup it is absolutely fine to drive all three LEDs to the max for CS at 1023 in the settings. The default color profiles as supplied by VV drive them to 1023 across the board in various mixes.
[/quote]
Good info. I was curious too about this. Looks like VV uses the Cree Xlamp XP-E2 LED. From Cree's technical data, they have done testing up to 1000mA already on their LEDs (close enough to 1023).
-
Yes, I was using my combat class Dark Ardent from VV. Being a complete saber noob (my first one ever), I don't even know what RICE is haha. Sounds like it would have made my life pretty simple for this. For those that don't have that though (sounds like all combat class people) hopefully this helps. And, I agree, once I find the colors I like, I will be set.
The Dark Ardent is a great saber congrats! One of my VV sabers is an Ardent Elite and I love it. RICE can be a real time-saver - particularly with some slightly more difficult to set up sabers. I've never missed it on the VV Combat Class though.
The color settings are important, but have you had a play with any of the other settings? There are plenty of cool customisations to make - for example setting the flicker and pulse effects (as I remember VV set up one of the banks to have a slight pulse by default that you can play with to get just about any pulse effect you like). I tend to tone down the FoC effect and duration a bit from the defaults. And also I prefer my sabers a bit more sensitive than most people default them to. If you're like me you will also spend quite some time honing down to the perfect six sound fonts for that particular saber (just remember to re-format the SD card each time you change any sound files). I'm sure you're all over these settings, but just in case - happy to help with suggestions if you want.
-
The color settings are important, but have you had a play with any of the other settings? There are plenty of cool customisations to make - for example setting the flicker and pulse effects (as I remember VV set up one of the banks to have a slight pulse by default that you can play with to get just about any pulse effect you like). I tend to tone down the FoC effect and duration a bit from the defaults. And also I prefer my sabers a bit more sensitive than most people default them to. If you're like me you will also spend quite some time honing down to the perfect six sound fonts for that particular saber (just remember to re-format the SD card each time you change any sound files). I'm sure you're all over these settings, but just in case - happy to help with suggestions if you want.
I am not looking at the card right now, but I did see many other settings to toy with. I was curious as to what they were. I will have to start toying with those and get back to you, thanks for the offer to answer questions :).
As for the sound fonts, I have added two extra fonts to the standard 3, The Force Awakens - The Dark Side and Rogue. When I have added them, I made a copy of the SD card onto my computer, added the fonts, changed a couple of things around in the dark side font (the startup file mainly) and then I copied the two new 'bank' files onto the SD card. Should I instead make a copy of the SD onto my computer, make my changes, add my fonts, reformat the SD and then drop on the new files fresh? Thanks.
-
I am not looking at the card right now, but I did see many other settings to toy with. I was curious as to what they were. I will have to start toying with those and get back to you, thanks for the offer to answer questions :).
As for the sound fonts, I have added two extra fonts to the standard 3, The Force Awakens - The Dark Side and Rogue. When I have added them, I made a copy of the SD card onto my computer, added the fonts, changed a couple of things around in the dark side font (the startup file mainly) and then I copied the two new 'bank' files onto the SD card. Should I instead make a copy of the SD onto my computer, make my changes, add my fonts, reformat the SD and then drop on the new files fresh? Thanks.
Those two additional fonts are two of the best ever - great choices. For going all out sith I'd suggest adding in Pitch Black by Lord Blako into that last slot :grin: I recently posted some notes on my favourite sound fonts here in case it's useful: Favourite sound fonts (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=49177.0)
As you just added the additional directories to a clean copy of banks 1-3 you will probably be fine (rather than if you made any changes to the files in-situ on the SD card, or changed the banks around for example). If you check the Plecter Crystal Shard manual you will notice that it mentions always re-formatting when making changes to the sound files or directory structure. Editing the config files in place is fine though. If you don't reformat before sound changes then the saber can get glitchy, or occasionally reset. On several occasions I have fixed peoples sabers from various symptoms like that in moments by copying the SD card contents, re-formatting the card, and copying the files back - always worth a go if you have any weird problems.
I use SDFormatter - the official SD card Association formatter - there are Mac and Windows versions. I found that quick formatting on my Mac occasionally seemed to cause problems - SDFormatter quick format has always worked flawlessly for me.
-
Those two additional fonts are two of the best ever - great choices. For going all out sith I'd suggest adding in Pitch Black by Lord Blako into that last slot :grin: I recently posted some notes on my favourite sound fonts here in case it's useful: Favourite sound fonts (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=49177.0)
I actually used that topic to find the Rogue font and a few others I want, honestly :azn:. That was a great overview of the fonts BTW.
-
Thanks Ziathon, first time I have ever seen any value in an RGB setup!
Any idea on mixing a bronze colour?
-
Thanks Ziathon, first time I have ever seen any value in an RGB setup!
Any idea on mixing a bronze colour?
I think you could hover around the R: 500-600, G: 1023, B: 0 marks for a good yellow-bronze color. It seemed to me like adding blue at the 200 range to the mix distorted the color toward white/pink. Granted, I have not mixed small amounts of blue in yet. But I can give it a shot.
Hope that helps.
-
bronze
I think you could hover around the R: 500-600, G: 1023, B: 0 marks for a good yellow-bronze color. It seemed to me like adding blue at the 200 range to the mix distorted the color toward white/pink. Granted, I have not mixed small amounts of blue in yet. But I can give it a shot.
Hope that helps.
Love to see your results if you can do that and yep everything helps though it will probably be some months before my first VV arrives since I just purchased it... From your post I couldn't help myself but to order a RBG setup!
-
Hey, what happened with the pictures?? I knew I should've saved this thread as PDF... :sad:
-
Hey, what happened with the pictures?? I knew I should've saved this thread as PDF... :sad:
Photobucket was having issues yesterday so all pics that were hosted on there were down. The pics on the first pages are back up
-
Is 1023: 1023: 1023 suppose to be the best settings for a pure white? Somehow the white color clashing doesn't look quite as nice as my regular royal blue Graflex.
-
Shadow Cloud in theory but not in practice. I find you have to play around with it a lot to get pure white on an RGB. This is because each and every LED die is slightly different and when you have 3 there is margin for error. Also some colors are naturally brighter to the eye than others. 1023,1023,1023 has NEVER worked for me :cheesy:.
-
Hmm alright thanks. Guess I'll have to play around the settings.
-
Nevermind :P
I figured out what I was wondering.
-
Just wanted to post that I changed the images from photobucket to imgur. I came back to do some adjustments to my saber (it has been a while) because I had not saved the pictures to my local computer.