FX-Sabers.com
The Mining Colony: Home of approved FX-Sabers vendors => slothfurnace.com => Topic started by: slothfurnace on June 12, 2017, 01:33:57 PM
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Hello all, it's been a long time, but I thought I'd post something I built over the weekend.
Entropy Specs: Steel Russrep Obi ANH Emitter pieces, Modified TCSS Blade holder, Canon model Y Flash handle, Slothfurnace ROTJH&S Clamp card, modified TCSS pommel. Plecter Labs Prizm V5, Single 18650 battery, dual 120 LED NeoPixel Mini RGB LED Strips.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F008.jpg&hash=909bd757235730ed482031dccbe7c547211c5f43)
This saber won't have much of a build log for it, as it came together very fast. I had purchased a Nano Biscotte V4 and Prizm V5 boards from Plecter Labs in hopes that the NeoPixel strip support would solve a problem I had been wrestling with for another build.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F002.jpg&hash=49ca89f3623985cf244bb62110b4a4bb78df48dd)
While I waited for the boards to come, I pulled out the parts bins, and began seeing what I had to work with for just a test saber. It didn't have to be fancy. But it had to work and hold the NeoPixel LED blade setup and the sound board, and a speaker.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F003.jpg&hash=038d236feef76e43666f0d0850b66a92dd5296f8)
I was fiddling with some parts, seeing what looked nice together, and accidentally got a Russrep Obi ANH emitter shell stuck on the end of a TCSS blade holder. From there, I found that blade holder would fit into one end of my Canon Model Y flash, with some effort. After that I stuck the un-used piece of the Russrep Obi ANH Emitter on to the clamp end of the flash, and noticed the diameter and finish were very close to the same. I then machined various pieces to fit.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F005.jpg&hash=6513a1de50d0181b7712971e74a38a639d81e397)
After I got all the pieces to fit, with some custom machined metal parts, I liked it so much I decided to weather it. The darkening I applied to the aluminum neck and other areas of this saber turned out nice, and it was a new method. I spun the pieces in the lathe against a fingernail buffer till it got hot enough to friction oxidize the surface.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F007.jpg&hash=5d9ffb88ae4b662ed1dbaa1ae15f854ca4b48e29)
The two brass pieces shown coming through the extension socket holes on the flash are actually one piece of hexagonal brass bar I machined a slot in, so that the two nubs left over fit through the existing holes in the flash gun. It is sitting on top of a custom pcb section with my activation and aux tactile switches. I plan to weather that brass color down to a more aged brown, or replace it with copper.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F009.jpg&hash=68e6c0ea85e38146ddd22f2bb11a0bd96a047617)
I cut down one of my ROTJH&S Clamp cards for the clamp, and machined and threaded a spot for a vintage brass thumbscrew to keep the pommel in place on the balance pipe.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F010.jpg&hash=c44414f8a3248948f92fb380a7a5a490ba845994)
Here is the plug section of the blade that interfaces with the blade socket. Center is data, three Anodes, and three cathodes. I applied the same friction oxide surface treatment that I did to the saber to this piece.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F013.jpg&hash=28a094db136ee8e8841f47600a5e47692d9d46d8)
The pommel section is made up of the Canon flash clamp end, a Russrep obi ANH emitter center section in steel, and a modified TCSS pommel.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F015.jpg&hash=f380c39a1b03a230707512d2b83214449ce1961c)
The pommel disassembled for access to the microSD card. The speaker is embedded in the aluminum cylinder that twist-locks into the Canon flash handle. It is connected through wires I've wrapped with thin style paracord. I've removed the TCSS pommel here as well to show the Russrep Balance pipe emitter piece I am using for a pommel neck.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F014.jpg&hash=368137f01f6491acc25c3c94f0a395d5b65bd303)
The recharge port is still sort of a work in progress, I want to remove that nut and replace it with something more custom.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F004.jpg&hash=53bca75cd72d845ea7040c1c05f5637155c3691d)
For a test saber, this turned out nice, and in only a few hours of work. Now I can get some testing of the Prizm plus NeoPixel LED blade done, and so far I think it fits the bill for the Damascus Inlay saber Exegesis I have been working on.
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Very nice combination of machined and found parts! How does the Neopixel blade look with regard to overall brightness compared to a standard tri-cree XP-E2 or a classic string blade? What kind of diffusion did you use?
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Very nice. Great OT feel to the aesthetic.
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Awesome build!
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Very nice combination of machined and found parts! How does the Neopixel blade look with regard to overall brightness compared to a standard tri-cree XP-E2 or a classic string blade? What kind of diffusion did you use?
The neopixel blade is very evenly lit from base to blade end. It has flawless animation for extend and retract, and the blaster bolt impact features are pretty nice.
The brightness might be a tad dimmer to equal brightness at the base compared to the tri-cree method, but way brighter at the end of the blade compared to the tri-cree just based on the fact that the same amount of light is consistently emitted from base to end.
Neopixels compared to old school LED strings that I used to make? My old strings do outshine the neopixels, but the tradeoff is as many colors as you want to define, and 14 loaded on the prizm at a time you can scroll through.
Neopixels and Plecter Labs Prizm board will be my favorite setup going forward.
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This is a great saber! Emitter is awesome and the shape of the buttons is unique and cool.
Straight out of a movie we didn't get yet!
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The neopixel blade is very evenly lit from base to blade end. It has flawless animation for extend and retract, and the blaster bolt impact features are pretty nice.
The brightness might be a tad dimmer to equal brightness at the base compared to the tri-cree method, but way brighter at the end of the blade compared to the tri-cree just based on the fact that the same amount of light is consistently emitted from base to end.
Neopixels compared to old school LED strings that I used to make? My old strings do outshine the neopixels, but the tradeoff is as many colors as you want to define, and 14 loaded on the prizm at a time you can scroll through.
Neopixels and Plecter Labs Prizm board will be my favorite setup going forward.
That's great to hear--thanks. You should make a video of it! I love the flawless animation of the Neopixel strips, but in the videos I've seen so far, the ignition/retraction seems to be very slow. Is this something you are able to speed up with the NBv4 or Prizm v5?
The color changing is a great feature, for sure. But I am all about brightness. If the blade overall is as bright as the base of a tri-cree blade, that's pretty good. Is there any noticeable corn cob effect? How hard is it to diffuse? I had a Hyperblade for years and never could find a way to totally eliminate the corn cob, even with multiple layers and styles of diffusion.
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The neopixel blade is very evenly lit from base to blade end. It has flawless animation for extend and retract, and the blaster bolt impact features are pretty nice.
The brightness might be a tad dimmer to equal brightness at the base compared to the tri-cree method, but way brighter at the end of the blade compared to the tri-cree just based on the fact that the same amount of light is consistently emitted from base to end.
Neopixels compared to old school LED strings that I used to make? My old strings do outshine the neopixels, but the tradeoff is as many colors as you want to define, and 14 loaded on the prizm at a time you can scroll through.
Neopixels and Plecter Labs Prizm board will be my favorite setup going forward.
That's great to hear--thanks. You should make a video of it! I love the flawless animation of the Neopixel strips, but in the videos I've seen so far, the ignition/retraction seems to be very slow. Is this something you are able to speed up with the NBv4 or Prizm v5?
The color changing is a great feature, for sure. But I am all about brightness. If the blade overall is as bright as the base of a tri-cree blade, that's pretty good. Is there any noticeable corn cob effect? How hard is it to diffuse? I had a Hyperblade for years and never could find a way to totally eliminate the corn cob, even with multiple layers and styles of diffusion.
You are able to change the scroll speed of ignition and retraction. What you 've seen so far are just default settings :azn:
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The neopixel blade is very evenly lit from base to blade end. It has flawless animation for extend and retract, and the blaster bolt impact features are pretty nice.
The brightness might be a tad dimmer to equal brightness at the base compared to the tri-cree method, but way brighter at the end of the blade compared to the tri-cree just based on the fact that the same amount of light is consistently emitted from base to end.
Neopixels compared to old school LED strings that I used to make? My old strings do outshine the neopixels, but the tradeoff is as many colors as you want to define, and 14 loaded on the prizm at a time you can scroll through.
Neopixels and Plecter Labs Prizm board will be my favorite setup going forward.
That's great to hear--thanks. You should make a video of it! I love the flawless animation of the Neopixel strips, but in the videos I've seen so far, the ignition/retraction seems to be very slow. Is this something you are able to speed up with the NBv4 or Prizm v5?
The color changing is a great feature, for sure. But I am all about brightness. If the blade overall is as bright as the base of a tri-cree blade, that's pretty good. Is there any noticeable corn cob effect? How hard is it to diffuse? I had a Hyperblade for years and never could find a way to totally eliminate the corn cob, even with multiple layers and styles of diffusion.
You are able to change the scroll speed of ignition and retraction. What you 've seen so far are just default settings :azn:
That's what I was hoping to hear! These things must look insane then once they're all tuned up and ready to rock.
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That's what I was hoping to hear! These things must look insane then once they're all tuned up and ready to rock.
Here is a video of it in action: Slothfurnace's Entropy (https://youtu.be/3PhssNGsrEg)
And a photo of the evenness of the blade:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fslothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2F016.jpg&hash=9c2359ef2c6ae21515d1f6189b67d22b8634afe4)
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A great saber from a real master! Wlecome in the merry team of neopixel saber builders.
As to the question of ignition/retraction speed: we use slow animation simply because it demonstrates the capabilities of neopixels better. Fast ignition/retraction is easy, but you will not see a big difference to Cree or segmented LED strings IMHO. And a slow ignition is more dramatic, think about Vader's appearance in R1 :evil:
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The neopixel blade is very evenly lit from base to blade end. It has flawless animation for extend and retract, and the blaster bolt impact features are pretty nice.
The brightness might be a tad dimmer to equal brightness at the base compared to the tri-cree method, but way brighter at the end of the blade compared to the tri-cree just based on the fact that the same amount of light is consistently emitted from base to end.
Neopixels compared to old school LED strings that I used to make? My old strings do outshine the neopixels, but the tradeoff is as many colors as you want to define, and 14 loaded on the prizm at a time you can scroll through.
Neopixels and Plecter Labs Prizm board will be my favorite setup going forward.
That's great to hear--thanks. You should make a video of it! I love the flawless animation of the Neopixel strips, but in the videos I've seen so far, the ignition/retraction seems to be very slow. Is this something you are able to speed up with the NBv4 or Prizm v5?
The color changing is a great feature, for sure. But I am all about brightness. If the blade overall is as bright as the base of a tri-cree blade, that's pretty good. Is there any noticeable corn cob effect? How hard is it to diffuse? I had a Hyperblade for years and never could find a way to totally eliminate the corn cob, even with multiple layers and styles of diffusion.
Excelsior, please see my above post for the video.
I, too, dislike the slow animation, and have sped it up to match the ignition sound more accurately. I feel the speed I have it on now is appropriate to the font I have chosen.
I do not notice any corncob effect.
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The Canon Y flash handle is an incredible piece for a saber. So glad you used it. The clamp is the coolest out there among vintage parts. I'm surprised more sabers don't use them, although they do seem to be hard to find. I'll have to post some pics of my vintage y flash build.
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The Canon Y flash handle is an incredible piece for a saber. So glad you used it. The clamp is the coolest out there among vintage parts. I'm surprised more sabers don't use them, although they do seem to be hard to find. I'll have to post some pics of my vintage y flash build.
Please do, I really dig this flash. I have another model Y canon flash, and am considering building a second Entropy. Perhaps with a coupler so it could go dual bladed.
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Excelsior, please see my above post for the video.
I, too, dislike the slow animation, and have sped it up to match the ignition sound more accurately. I feel the speed I have it on now is appropriate to the font I have chosen.
I do not notice any corncob effect.
Thanks for the video! It was great seeing it in action. I'm glad to hear you don't have any noticeable corn cob effect. What type of diffusion did you use? I'm planning to build up my Roman Mk.1 with a Neopixel blade in the next month or so, and I'm trying to get some ideas. I figure I'll probably end up using some type of foam wrap inside of a TCSS diffuser tube, inside of a TCSS trans-white blade. My only concern is overheating the LEDs--I imagine they get pretty hot, especially using white for FOC.
I do like a slower ignition like Vader in ESB and Rogue One, but not too slow, if that makes sense. For other sabers, like a Luke ROTJ, having a fast ignition is just part of the saber's character. So again, I'm glad this is one of the parameters that can be tuned.
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Excelsior, please see my above post for the video.
I, too, dislike the slow animation, and have sped it up to match the ignition sound more accurately. I feel the speed I have it on now is appropriate to the font I have chosen.
I do not notice any corncob effect.
Thanks for the video! It was great seeing it in action. I'm glad to hear you don't have any noticeable corn cob effect. What type of diffusion did you use? I'm planning to build up my Roman Mk.1 with a Neopixel blade in the next month or so, and I'm trying to get some ideas. I figure I'll probably end up using some type of foam wrap inside of a TCSS diffuser tube, inside of a TCSS trans-white blade. My only concern is overheating the LEDs--I imagine they get pretty hot, especially using white for FOC.
I do like a slower ignition like Vader in ESB and Rogue One, but not too slow, if that makes sense. For other sabers, like a Luke ROTJ, having a fast ignition is just part of the saber's character. So again, I'm glad this is one of the parameters that can be tuned.
There is already a thread for a neopixel desing idea exchange platform:
Neopixel blade assembly - an experience exchange board (https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=51357.0)
I would suggest to use that thread to discuss general neopixel diffusion, assembly etc. topic to keep all these info in one place. Just an idea to make it easier for others to find relevant hints.
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Excelsior, please see my above post for the video.
I, too, dislike the slow animation, and have sped it up to match the ignition sound more accurately. I feel the speed I have it on now is appropriate to the font I have chosen.
I do not notice any corncob effect.
Thanks for the video! It was great seeing it in action. I'm glad to hear you don't have any noticeable corn cob effect. What type of diffusion did you use? I'm planning to build up my Roman Mk.1 with a Neopixel blade in the next month or so, and I'm trying to get some ideas. I figure I'll probably end up using some type of foam wrap inside of a TCSS diffuser tube, inside of a TCSS trans-white blade. My only concern is overheating the LEDs--I imagine they get pretty hot, especially using white for FOC.
I do like a slower ignition like Vader in ESB and Rogue One, but not too slow, if that makes sense. For other sabers, like a Luke ROTJ, having a fast ignition is just part of the saber's character. So again, I'm glad this is one of the parameters that can be tuned.
For diffusion, I used a salvaged Hasbro foam diffuser. My two neopixel strips, I extracted from the rubber sheath, and double sided taped them together, back to back, making sure I wasn't shorting something out. Then the two strips went back into one of the rubber sheaths for stability and protection.
The two strips, inside the rubber housing, inside the foam diffuser, went into the translucent diffuser and blade from TCSS.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.slothfurnace.com%2Fimages%2Fentropy%2Fdiffuser.jpg&hash=f572730f02fd55e128a729063c77916f1cb17d4c)
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Thanks, Sloth. Sounds like the ideal setup. Now if we could only get someone to start producing these foam parts so we wouldn't have to rely on salvaged MR and Hasbro sabers all the time... I'd be happy to look into it myself eventually, but I'm currently occupied with designing and preparing to launch my own line of original sabers. Hopefully Tim at TCSS will consider offering these though. We'd need some various adapters as well to mount the mini XLR or DIN connectors in the blades and emitters. Looks like you lathed out an adapter for yours? I'm sure as time goes on we'll see some kind of standardized system of components for these new blades. I have a feeling they're going to be very popular.
Awesome looking build again! Definitely looks like something out of the OT. Roger Christian would be proud.
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The darkening I applied to the aluminum neck and other areas of this saber turned out nice, and it was a new method. I spun the pieces in the lathe against a fingernail buffer till it got hot enough to friction oxidize the surface.
Wait, what? Hey @slothfurnace ! Was there a chemical involved like "aluminum black" or was that oxidation achieved strictly through the heat created by the friction of your fingernail buffer?
Crazy effective technique one way or the other! It "turned" out really spectacular!!! :wink:
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The darkening I applied to the aluminum neck and other areas of this saber turned out nice, and it was a new method. I spun the pieces in the lathe against a fingernail buffer till it got hot enough to friction oxidize the surface.
Wait, what? Hey @slothfurnace ! Was there a chemical involved like "aluminum black" or was that oxidation achieved strictly through the heat created by the friction of your fingernail buffer?
Crazy effective technique one way or the other! It "turned" out really spectacular!!! :wink:
Ayup, I was attempting to polish the metal with a fingernail buffer, but the longer I applied pressure, the darker the metal got. Then I went and did that on purpose to see how dark it would get. The black on the saber is the result of that friction oxidation. No chemicals.
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I thought I'd post something I built over the weekend
I envy you. Something like this would take me a month of planning, and much more than a weekend on the actual build, and it still wouldn't be anywhere near as beautiful as this. Well done.
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The bald base is interesting...... trying to figure that one out myself...