Okay, here's what I use to make the led housing:
All of these parts can be bought at The Custom Saber Shop, or TCSS. See above links please.
Well, this part you have make yourself:
This is a piece of thin walled polycarbonate blade stock. It is about 3/4"-7/8" long. This will house the lens holder and lens assembly. This can be cut off from the bottom of a piece of blade stock using a plumbing tubing cutter.
This is the led heatsink:
The two nylon screws are sold separately, and will hold the led to the heatsink. Use some CPU thermal paste on the bottom of the led to help with heat transfer.
This next piece should be inside the saber already:
It is located in the bottom half of the blade holder/socket. It helps hold the original blade in place. This will house the led, lens, and heatsink assembly.
Attach the led to the heatsink:
Then place the lens holder on top of the led:
Now is a good time to solder leads to the led. I like to use red for the positive, and black for the negative. (Not shown....if you can't solder wires to an led, you shouldn't be attempting to do this conversion yourself!;))
Add the lens:
add the piece of 1" polycarbonate:
This piece if cut off with a tubing cutter, will have a bit of a rolled edge to it. This will allow it to snap over the screw heads. Add a line of high-temp hot glue around the inside of the polycarbonate piece to prevent the lens from falling out. This piece will act as a blade stop as well. It may be a tight fit inside the blade socket, so make sure you're ready to install it before attempting to do so.
Insert the heatsink/lens assembly into the white blade support:
I usually use some more high-temp hot glue to secure the bottom of the heatsink to the blade support piece as well.
This piece should fit inside the blade socket as it is, but you may have to remove a couple of the bottom "rings" on the heatsink to clear the soundboard housing in a sound-equipped conversion. I also don't think it would be necessary to cut off the blade holder/socket as is shown in the top conversion pictures.
These conversions require you to re-use the stock blades as they have a slightly smaller opening in the blade socket for TCSS or Ultrasabers blades. UltraFX blades will, however, fit them just fine.