FX-Sabers.com
FX-Sabers Discussion - Including a Gallery of custom sabers. => Data Sheets => Topic started by: eastern57 on October 22, 2008, 02:48:11 PM
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I wrote up a tutorial for weathering via baking w/olive oil. It's over at TCSS.
Here's the link to it:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6292
I'll update it as new tips and tricks come up - no pics yet, but it's good information.
Feel free to let me know (here or there) if you have something that you'd like added.
eastern57 :)
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Thanks eastern! You get a sticky post! 8)
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Eastern, ........
I was just searching the forums for this!!!
JUST NOW!!!
That is exceptional timing on your part. thanks
*going to go read it now*
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*Ding Ding* Happiness - all around!
I'm glad I could help. Hope to see some good weathering in the future!
:)
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THanks for the Tutorial Eastern. I was actually wondering how to do this and what the procedure was, because I was considering it for my MHS saber. Excellent job. ;)
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Great explanation of the procedure, Eastern.
I'll be experimenting with a couple of different MHS hilts I have incoming next week. Specifically, lightly sanding different components before applying the oil. The goal is to see if I can coax the oil to seeping slightly thicker in the scratches, and achieve some sort of uniform "directionality" in the resulting color. 'Hard to articulate in words, but the picture is in my head and hopefully that will translate to 3D soon :)
...And I've always wondered, what made you think of baking olive oil on a lightsaber in your oven, in the first place?
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I'm pretty sure I know what you mean - and it works to a certain degree. That's why I sanded with the 100gt sandpaper, to get this effect:
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi306.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fnn260%2Feastern57%2FMONGREL%2FDSC03409.jpg&hash=0585eae7bdafde00dc13591a2d0d2583ae4881ee) (http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/eastern57/MONGREL/DSC03409.jpg)
See how the brown fills in the grooves, but not completely? Using a lighter touch would make shallower grooves.
BUT.... this was a fairly thick coat too. A much, much lighter coat wouldn't run so much, and would produce very different results... bringing us back to the testing phase ;) See how circular this is? Round and round :)
Either way, it's a great look IMO! XsaberX has pretty much mastered the process... he might have something to add.
And i cook a lot, so it was an inevitability that I'd eventually cook a lightsaber ;)
made your pick clicky ~ Jango
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Additional suggestion
Multiple baking with medium oil will produce a layered effect.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi20.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb219%2FNailbunny375%2FThe%2520Relic%2F100_4454.jpg&hash=cb5cd942af0ae55bd0be887b3df9e57f6e584774) (http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b219/Nailbunny375/The%20Relic/100_4454.jpg)
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Thanks, dude! ;)
And that Jango guy - man of many talents! He's got it down too! ;D
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Looks delicious!
I'll try that sandpaper out, Eastern. Thanks again
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Great tutorial, thanks for posting it.
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BRAAAAIIIIINNNNNNSSSSS!!!!!!! :P
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BRAAAAIIIIINNNNNNSSSSS!!!!!!! :P
I see your brains and raise you a BRIAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNSSSS!!! http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=31938.0 ;)
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Would this work on powder coated/anodized part or would the oven burn off/ bubble the finish?
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This technique works because the aluminum is bare. That's what causes the reaction. So if you're powdercoating/anodizing the saber you won't get much interaction on the pc'd/anodized surfaces. It does very nicely on unpainted aluminum though. To weather the painted/pc'd/anodized surfaces, I've seen people do it with light sanding, scrubbing with steel wool, or just scratching it up with a file. There are really a number of options you could try. You just need to experiment.
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For aluminum,I use a soft sanding then can be soft polished using "buhler" with a cloth
For those who want I can give some "advices " for steel and brass wheathering,I made some knives and japanese weapon accessoiries in the past,so I have found some ways to do wheathering on steel and copper alloys.
Generally I work with ammonia vapour for copper,displaying a refreshed piece in ambient temperature container with some ammonia on bottom,no contact ,only vapour actoin.
It will give a brown to black,with bluish or greenish accent depending on material.
It works better with bronzes,brass than pure copper.
For iron alloy I use acids,hydrochloric for stainless steel,can be used as vapour for a soft rusty look,or as liquid for tarnished grey look.
For non-stainless iron I use nitric acid,as a vapour,it takes a long time,but it will bring a full rusty color dark to reddish chocolate.
Then you can use wax to protect.
Other way is to heat the pieceand apply acid with a brush.
PLease don't forget the solutions are corrosive and nocive,and work with air,not in closed space,and use protections for eyes and hands.
Please remember we NEVER put water in acid,but acid in water.
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Adding garlic does little to improve the effect, I've found :P
cool tutorial.