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The S.A.B.E.R. GUILD: Saber Manufacturers => FX-SABERS Graflex Armory & GraflexShop "GRAFLEX FX-SABERS" => FX-SABERS GRAFLEX crystal core CHASSIS KITS (info and sales threads) => Topic started by: Yoda on October 21, 2014, 12:28:43 PM
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Hello everyone
I'm making a topic to show the RICE port installed along with discussing tips and tricks to help with building your chassis.
1. RICE PORT:
The Rice Port I'm including is a micro 3 pin plug and is shown installed on a chassis in the following picture.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi201.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa60%2FFX-SABERS%2FFX-SABERS%2520DIY%2520Chassis%2520Kits%2FRICEPortinstall_zps14d90cbf.jpg&hash=b3f53cf847480cfb92324187929aac40bf8c3975) (http://s201.photobucket.com/user/FX-SABERS/media/FX-SABERS%20DIY%20Chassis%20Kits/RICEPortinstall_zps14d90cbf.jpg.html)
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa60/FX-SABERS/FX-SABERS%20DIY%20Chassis%20Kits/RICEPortinstall_zps14d90cbf.jpg (http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa60/FX-SABERS/FX-SABERS%20DIY%20Chassis%20Kits/RICEPortinstall_zps14d90cbf.jpg)
The way to install it is to use the plastic plates shown in the image for mounting it to.
You will need to lightly sand down the metallic surface on the chassis parts, glue them together and drill appropriate sized holes
for fitting the female end of the plug on to the plates and using Cyanoacrylate Glue to attach it.
When wiring it up Always put the Negative lead on the center post of the plug and the Rx and Tx leads on the outer posts.
This will prevent any accidental shorting of the system because the negative line can not get mixed up with a positive line.
You will then use the Male side of the connector to attach/solder to your USB cable for a completed micro RICE plug 8)
2. Slide switch attachment:
The Slide switch can use pieces of the 1/16 tube to make small posts that fit in the holes and to center it in position
in the channel and you should use a piece of the thin tape under it to attach it and hold it to the adapter.
3. Speaker Rings and Gluing/Drilling:
It is easier to drill out the holes on the rings and end-cap parts separately before assembling them.
Using a 1/16 drill bit simply open up the holes so it is easier to feed the long screws in and align
the speaker rings and end-cap.
In the manual is states to glue them together but this isn't 100% necessary now that I'm including extra rings
to accommodate the additional depth needed for the 2watt speakers.
First drill out the holes, assemble it and test it with the speaker.
If you feel you want it more air tight you can then go back remove the speaker rings and end-cap as a whole
unit and glue them if necessary.
I hope this helps members who have kits and if anyone has any questions or would like advice on any particular
step in the manual please feel free to post here and I'll be able to assist you and add anything to this tips and
tricks list that pertains to it.
Thank you all again for your continued enthusiasm for fx-sabers
MTFBWY
always
YODA
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Help me out brother please... aside from the cosmetic stuff I need to complete my graflex lightsaber and aside from what I get packaged in your diy kit what else do I need to buy separately? Example would be like obviously a sound board right but what else?
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From here....The FX-SABERS crystal core Graflex DIY Chassis Kit (Info and configurations) (http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=33238.0)
Parts and Electronics required to complete the Chassis Kit and Saber assembly.
Graflex Flash Gun (replica or vintage)
Single Hole 3/4 D-ring
8/32 or 10/32 button head hex screw.
Glass eye Thumbscrew.
Bubble strip (7 or 8 digit)
3.6 inch Rubber Grips (quantity 7)
Graflex LED adapter w/heatsink plate.
High Power LED and Lens
(10 deg Luxeon optic recommended)
Silicone Wire in 18-22 and 24-26 ga sizes
28mm speaker (1 watt 8ohm recommended)
LED driver/Sound Boards are recommended (Users can also wire as direct drive stunt saber if desired)
Tools Required to Complete the Chassis kit.
Ruler with SAE and Metric Measurments.
Scissors. Hobby/X-acto Knife. Tweezers.
Flat Nose, Needle Nose & Cutting Pliers.
Cyanoacrylate Thin - Med Thin Glue
(odorless foam safe type recommended)
Graflex Pin Tool or 3mm socket.
Drill Bits and Thread Tapping Tools in
4/40, 6/32, 8/32 and 10/32 sizes.
Hex Drivers in 3/32, 1/16 and .05 sizes (Kit included Allen Wrenches)
Flat Head Screw Driver.
Shrink Tubing Clear, Black and Red
in 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 inch diameter sizes
1/2 in. Vinyl or Electrical Tape.
A Hand held Dremel / Rotary Tool and a Small Metal file is also recommended for cutting and sanding of small parts.
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Many thanks for sharing all this! Even for those of us just struggling to learn the basics of the art of saber construction, this is really helpful.
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You are welcome and I'm glad to help.
Here is another tip for those installing Tri LEDs with their shorter height dimensions as the adapter
accommodates all LED sizes.
When using the Tri LED from Cree or Luxeon you will need to make an 8mm spacer ring out of some
polycarbonate tube to take up the gap as it is shorter than other LED/lens setups.
In conjunction with that you will want to use a dremel and slightly enlarge the hole diameter
in the adapter so the light from the Tri lens does not get blocked as much on the edges.
(https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi201.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa60%2FFX-SABERS%2FTutorials%2FLED%2520spacer%2520dimensions_zpsakjt27mk.jpg&hash=b90555227584d4949362618b964a929275561ff7) (http://s201.photobucket.com/user/FX-SABERS/media/Tutorials/LED%20spacer%20dimensions_zpsakjt27mk.jpg.html)