[SOLVED] CFX v10 - LED not lighting after rewire

[nunya]

Hello again.

I have rewired my hilt side PCB to use 20AWG on all but data line (22AWG for that one) and also wired 20AWG from battery (18650 3.7v 3120mAH 15A).  I was getting weak light prior to the upgrade now I get no light.  Testing on a remainder LED strip piece (previously used for testing) gives the same result.

I am measuring just over 4v (same as battery) between the positive and negative pins on the PCB but also see 4V between data line pin and board ground as well as data line pin and PCB negative (I do not recall voltage on the data line prior to this)
I confirmed not continuity between +/- PCB wires and the data line so not sure why voltage is there now.

I see around 3v at channel 2 pad but no volts on channel 1, 3, ad 4.  I am not sure what these do but thought I had voltage on all of those  prior to rewire.

When holding the PCB pins to the blade side PCB (to test the lighting) I saw smoke from the solder point at L2 (between channel 2 and 3) then that soldered connection came off completely.  I have reattached the L2 connection but still no lights.

I ran all the typical voltage checks as provided in the manual and they all came back in expected range.

What is the next trouble shooting step?
How do I confirm the board is not fried?
 

[K-2SO]

Good, clear high quality, close up pictures of the pieces in question will go quite a way in helping you out.

[nunya]

board pictures as implicitly requested
[Dead URLs Removed]

[QUI-GON JINN]

There's a nice bubble on the L2 transistor, which usually means its blown.

[K-2SO]

Number 1’s doesn’t look so hot either. The chip on the underside closest to the power connectors also look like it’s fried.
Also, those switch connections are incredibly close to the MCU legs. If any of those are touching, that could be causing a huge issue as well.

[nunya]

Thanks for the replies.
There is some electrical tape adhesive residue on some of the components - maybe that is part of what you are seeing on transistor 1?
Regardless, sounds like I am SOL on this board...although I get sound and actions but no lighting.

I learned several points here:

• solder under a magnifying glass
• solder wires where little/no chance of hitting another component (thought I was careful)
• do not use cheap/lead-free solder

Any other advice?  I am admittedly learning, please be kind 

[QUI-GON JINN]

Get a small diameter silver bearing leaded solder, and make sure your iron also has a small enough tip for the job.

[K-2SO]

If you live here in the states, Chewbacca may be able to salvage that board for you. He handles Plecter Lab board repairs in the United States.

And I second the recommendations Qui-Gon made.

[nunya]

thanks for the advice!
I have a decent solder (1mm 60SN/40PB) and looking for a better solder tip.
I'll contact Chewy for options.

[nunya]

A quick update.  I obtained a new CFX v10 sound card and wired it up successfully on the first try (on this card) because of all the advice and guidance from  the helpful people on this forum. 
Thanks to K2-SO, QUI-GON JINN, and jbkuma I now have a working CFX powered saber!
If there is a way to give accolades to those forum members (other than the above call-out) I will be sure to do that.