The "Every Type of Question" Thread....

[th31]

Ok, instead of using the switches at TCSS, will any of these:

1) Work?

2) Fit the hole in the TCSS hilts?



A) mounts in 1/2" hole

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062510&cp=&sr=1&origkw=spst+switch&kw=spst+switch&parentPage=search





B) mounts in 1/2" hole

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508&cp=&sr=1&origkw=spst+switch&kw=spst+switch&parentPage=search




C) mounts in 1/4" hole

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&pg=2&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2062540&accessories=accessories&kw=spst+switch&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=techSpecs&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=spst+switch&support=support&tab=summary

[Aluke123]

None of those will fit in the TCSS switch hole. The TCSS hole is 3/8"

The first two I assume are latching. Those can work with anything except for an Ultrasound.
The third is momentary so it will only work with Ultrasound, Corbin's Driver, and Crystal Focus. That is also a sucky switch that is prone to breaking.

[darthmorbius]

Those first two are momentary but they will not fit the TCSS switch holes. They are 1/2" mounting frames.

The other ones... Stay FAR away from those... EVERY single one of them I have ever used crapped out after a day. The plungers on them wear out really fast, and they aren't really made all that well, especially for sabers.

[th31]

ok, i'll stick with TCSS switches, unless someone knows where Ultra is sourcing his low profile switches.

I just bought the double acrylic stand from this site, what is the easiest way to hold this stand together?  Superglue?

[Aluke123]

I would assume that the pressure from the saber and snugly fitting parts would hold it together.

DO NOT use superglue. It will fog the clear acrylic. I really don't think you'll need anything.

[LANDO CALRISSIAN]

To eliminate the lean use scotch tape in the joints to get a tighter fit. Be careful not to put to many layers in as the fit will become too tight and may break if forced. Give that a try.

As told to me by the maker when I asked him the same question.

[Aluke123]

Okies. I stand corrected.  :P

Still, don't use superglue, whatever you do. That will fog the stand.

[Luke S.]

For the stands from Yoda use weldon glue.  I have on the verticals and it works great.  Just make sure you get the $2 bottle with needle applicator as this stuff is like water and it makes applying it so much easier.

For the switches just an idea here.  You could put on a brass or chrome sinktube sleeve that would cover the TCSS hole then drill another hole the right size for the switch you intend to use.  You could also find some other type of hardware like the brass anakin buttons or other type of trinket to plug the hole cosmetically then redrill another hole.  Just some more ideas for you.

[HAN SOLO]

Cool. I have the same issue.

[darthmorbius]

The new switches from Ultra will fit the TCSS stuff but you just need to enlarge the bore for the switch to 7/16" with a 5/8" counter-bore so it will sit flush, just don't go too deep with the counter-bore because these switches are LONG.  We're talking 1" from the bottom of the bezel to the ends of the solder lugs.

It's a tight fit in an MHS based saber, but they look KILLER on a saber.

[Aluke123]

Can I run two Red LUX III off of one Corb1n LUX driver?
Do I need to use a resister with the LUX driver?

Finally have a answer for your Corbin board question.

You can. Wire the LEDs in series, and use a higher voltage pack. 9.6V is ideal, 7.2V will do in a pinch.

[LANDO CALRISSIAN]

series?

I tried today both in parelle and they worked, Will they be brighter in series? I using 6v (4 AAA pack)

[Aluke123]

6V is totally underpowering the LEDs. I asked Xwing on TCSS, he told me to wire em in series. He knows his stuff...

[Chowser]

ok, wiring question: Vader ESB board
want to make sure I have this right:


#1 goes to POSITIVE LED

#2 goes to NEGATIVE LED

#3 goes to ON/OFF SWITCH

#4 goes to BATTERY?

There's a purple wire in #4.  Does that go to the speaker?





this is what it's going into:

LED and Batteries will go into the ribbed section with quick-disconnects.  Everything else goes into SHILT3.

[Aluke123]

That looks good to me. #4 goes to batteries.

The MR board is funky. The speaker and battery pack share a common positive. Here is a diagram of how to wire it.